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[Shipping] - Euro Panel/Kit for Serge Resonant EQ Mk. II
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author [Shipping] - Euro Panel/Kit for Serge Resonant EQ Mk. II
clarke68
Hey all,

Negativspace has been hard at work on a new daughterboard for the Serge Resonant EQ project we did back in 2012. Behold, the Serge Resonant EQ Mk. II:



As before, the panel is 32HP, and requires CGS202. Negativspace's new daughterboard is improved in a few ways:

- No panel wiring! I mean it this time. *All* of the panel-mounted components solder directly to the daughterboard.

- A bunch more outputs, including separate outputs for each frequency. Makes this module into a hardcore, fire-breathing feedback machine.

- Designed for use with Bourns 45mm slider pots, with LEDs

Here's how it looks in real life:




Here's a photo of CGS202 mounted on the new prototype sub-board:




Official BOM:
Quote:

SMT Components
[3] TL074 (SOIC-14)
[10] 330R Resistor (0805)
[25] 47k Resistor (0805)
[2] 0.1uF Ceramic capacitor (0805)

Through-hole Components
[18] Kobiconn 16PJ138 jacks
[10] Bourns or Alpha 45mm LED sliders
[2] Alpha 9mm pots or similar, value 50k Audio.
[10] LED Current-limiting Resistors - value varies by slider brand and LED color. Adjust to taste.
[2] 22uF Electrolytic capacitors
[2] 1N4001 Diode
[1] 2x5-pin Eurorack power header

Hardware
[6] 10mm standoffs (between panel and daughterboard)*
[4] Standoffs (between CGS202 and daughterboard)**
[?] Appropriate hardware based on the particular choices made for the two above items.

* = I highly recommend metric M2.5 screws & 10mm standoffs. The panel holes are too small for M3 screws and #4-40 standoffs don't come in 10mm lengths. Unlike many projects, the standoff height in this one is somewhat critical. It has to match the jacks.

** = The height of these is noncritical, you may as well stick to 10mm if you're ordering them but they don't have to match anything else.



The newest (and still coolest) way to get this unique circuit into your Euroracks.

Panel Sets are sold out.
A number of people have yet to pay for their orders, so the ordering information below is for them. Thanks for all your support!


Pricing
Pricing is confirmed! $70USD for both the panel and sub-board. I will be collecting payment and shipping them out together.


Shipping Info
U.S. - $5.80 Priority 2-Day
Canada - 1 set: $9; 2 sets: $10 International First Class
International - 1 set: $13; 2 sets: $15 International First Class

I'll do a custom quote for any international orders of quantities over 2. Note that International First Class is a bare-bones shipping service with no tracking, delivery confirmation, insurance, etc. Other services are available if you need something like that (for a lot more money) just let me know when you place your order.



Order Info
At this point, shipping is set to begin the first week in November, I've only got the bandwidth to do a certain number each day, and I will ship them out in roughly the same order that the orders came in.

Once I start shipping, I'll send reminder PMs out to those of you who have expressed interest in getting a panel but have not placed an actual order. There's no real deadline, but also no problem if you are no longer interested, just let me know.

When you're ready to pay, send the following to me either by PM or email at clarke at muffwiggler dot com:

Quote:
I'm ordering [x] sets of the Serge Resonant EQ Mark II panel and daughterboard for $xx, plus shipping, for a total of $xx.

I'm aware that I may have to pay additional amounts of customs and tax in my country.

I'm also aware that I'm only buying screened and drilled panel that may help me building an electronic module - I'm *not* buying a diy kit, not a "project" - just a screened/drilled panel. I know how to build electronic circuits and I am trained in electrical safety matters. The seller of these panels will not be held responsible for any damage that results from these panels, directly or indirectly.

My shipping address is

xxxxxx
xxxxx
xxxx
xxx

My PayPal address is xxxx@xxxx.com
My Forumname is xxxxxx


When I get your order, I will reply with a Paypal invoice, due in one week.

Thanks for all your support for this project, you guys have been great!
clarke68
Order List

4285407da1d2a63820a3007c1 - 1
ablearcher - 1
agitprop - 1
apoisontree - 1
atari5200 - 1
bennelong.bicyclist - 1
bkbirge - 4
blip - 1
c1t1zen - 2
cane creek - 1
ClausF - 1
CrankSatori - 1
corpusjonsey - 1
daluxer - 1
davidschwan1 - 2
designator - 2
dogmeat - 1
dropmotif - 1
earlabs - 1
endosine - 2
FetidEye - 3
fiocz - 1
flyingMono - 1
frozencore - 1
fuzzbass - 1
gbiz - 1
ghostcode - 1
gwaidan - 1
jaidee - 1
jestern77 - 2
jflower - 1
jjacobkelly - 1
jules - 2
kasey - 2
kires - 1
lessavyfav - 1
lintfresh - 1
listentoaheartbeat - 1
livefreela - 1
lombrose - 1
Low-Gain - 10
magneticstripper - 2
makers - 1
mapmap - 1
migrations - 1
mikecameron - 1
monkfish - 1
mono-poly - 1
mr.sling - 1
mush - 1
nangu - 3
ndkent - 1
neon - 2
noisefor - 1
nord - 2
olga42 - 1
onlyHzwhenI... - 2
orbless - 1
paperwork - 1
pfurmel - 1
pulse divider - 2
prscrptn - 2
Raytracer - 1
Reality Checkpoint - 1
regenbot - 1
rockwoofstone - 1
Royalston - 1
ruidobello - 1
sammy123 - 1
Scvnger - 2
shapesofglory - 2
simfonik - 2
simot99 - 1
spacenoodle - 1
spneca - 1
Stab Frenzy - 2
Stinkier86 - 2
Suf-fuD - 1
talfred - 1
tb323 - 2
the bad producer - 1
thecureForSin - 1
udbhav - 1
unease - 1
vicpop - 1
wellurban - 1
windspirit - 1
woodster - 2
xahdrez - 1
yan6 - 1

Payment received from people in blue
Orders have shipped to people in green
rico loverde
interested in one!
prscrptn
Yes, Yes, Yes! thumbs up
sammy123
Count me in for one please. thumbs up
lombrose
Interested in one hyper
vicpop
I'm interested in a set
negativspace
I am so in. w00t

Note that I've added protection diodes to the daughterboard since the photo in the OP was taken.
ndkent
yes, would like one.
mush
I want one.
limpmeat
I'm in for one
thresholdpeople
I'm in!
ablearcher
I'm in for a set. Pre order or stock doesn't matter to me.
bennelong.bicyclist
One set (panel and board) please.
unease
I'm in! One set!
paperwork
I'm in & happy to pre-order!
olga42
I'm in for a set please!
l e b e r
Yes please!
FetidEye
i'm in for 2 ,maybe 3 sets!!

w00t SlayerBadger!

pre-order is fine by me, you guys rock
Synesthesia
in thumbs up
shapesofglory
I'm in for two! MY ASS IS BLEEDING
cyklopljud
Interested!
woodster
we're not worthy

2x panel/pcb sets for me please.
Raytracer
1x panel + pcb set for me please. I'm completely ok with pre-ordering.
Reality Checkpoint
Oh for goodness sake!

I am trying to streamline here!!!!!!!!!

Yes please, one set!
ClausF
Interested!
cleahy
Definitely interested!
recompas
I'm interested in a set!
malnatim
looks great, but is there any chance of an alternative manhattan analog panel also being offered?

[/img]
Stinktier86
I'm on the fence for preordering one or maybe two. I'm also wondering about the MA front panels which i would prefer but it's not a deal maker/breaker.

More importantly, i'm wondering if the sg202 plus sub board is within my skill range? I've only built a pair of Music thing springs, a DIY expander to those, a bunch of erica polyvox filters and made some minor tweaks to modules. Next up is a stripboard ringmod and MA's state variable filter x 4. After that, would i be able to pull this one off?
magneticstripper
2 full sets please.
spneca
I'm in for a full set.
xahdrez
This is fun!
definitely in for a set!
yan6
Yes please, I will be down for 1 full set
bkbirge
I'll take 4 sets. That Clarke panel is fantastic.
bkbirge
clarke68 wrote:

- No panel wiring! I mean it this time. *All* of the panel-mounted components solder directly to the daughterboard.


Which jacks should be used on this build? I'm assuming erthenvar since the regular kobis would still require panel wiring for ground?

Also, since all the i/o is on the daughterboard this time, is it already normalled for out to in feedback or is the pin there to hook up to the breakable input on the jacks?
udbhav
I want one please!
spacenoodle
One full set for me, thanks!
jestern77
I want two sets (PCB and Panel)! Shipping to Belgium smile
Pfurmel
Stinktier86 wrote:

More importantly, i'm wondering if the sg202 plus sub board is within my skill range? I've only built a pair of Music thing springs, a DIY expander to those, a bunch of erica polyvox filters and made some minor tweaks to modules. Next up is a stripboard ringmod and MA's state variable filter x 4. After that, would i be able to pull this one off?


I say go for it!
There is not much to these, save the wiring, which is apparently now minimal. There is no calibration. The hardest part is possibly sourcing all of the polystyrene capaciors. I think there are a few oddball values that aren't available at mouser, I could be wrong though(its been over a year since I built one).
appliancide
Nice job guys!

If you can't find a certain value of polystyrene, mica or even C0G/NPO ceramics are just as accurate.
mapmap
please count me in for one.
davidschwan1
Two sets (PCB and Panel) for me.
windspirit
definitely in for one, possibly 2
makers
I'm interested in a set.
negativspace
On my phone now... will answer many questions in the morning when I have a laptop to type on.
LeftyLogic
Are you offering the daughterboards on their own without the panel? And if so, would I be able to stuff this into a 4 Frac width (approximately 30 HP) panel? Seriously interested in getting one of these! It's peanut butter jelly time!
wellurban
I'm in for a set too thumbs up
oberkorn
sorry to sidetrack the thread: I have the old version of this panel,
anyone knows if its possible to add separate outputs for each frequency, maybe on a expansion panel?
Pfurmel
I'll take a set, too, please.
lintfresh
Yep! Gimme.
gbiz
Panel & PCB for me please
spotta
One panel & pcb here thumbs up
meska
^whant !!
Reality Checkpoint
Would it be in poor form to show how excited I am for this by admitting to having ordered the CGS202 from Ken already, and am tracking down polystyrene caps as we speak?!?!
ThecureForSin
Count me in for 1!
sammy123
Reality Checkpoint wrote:
Would it be in poor form to show how excited I am for this by admitting to having ordered the CGS202 from Ken already, and am tracking down polystyrene caps as we speak?!?!


I've been doing the same thing.
clarke68
Reality Checkpoint wrote:
Would it be in poor form to show how excited I am for this by admitting to having ordered the CGS202 from Ken already, and am tracking down polystyrene caps as we speak?!?!

Not at all! Let us know when you find a source for the odd-value Poly caps (once you've secured a set for yourself, of course).

Thanks for all the enthusiasm so far guys! You'll hear back from me once I can confirm pricing...should be another day or two. nanners
stephenvit
I would like one as well (very much smile
Reality Checkpoint
clarke68 wrote:

Not at all! Let us know when you find a source for the odd-value Poly caps (once you've secured a set for yourself, of course).


To this end I have contacted a company here in the UK that seem to have a lot of the values required and am waiting to hear back from them.

I shall keep you all posted..............
lessavyfav
in for 1 , gonna need to finally build my new case...
bkbirge
oberkorn wrote:
sorry to sidetrack the thread: I have the old version of this panel,
anyone knows if its possible to add separate outputs for each frequency, maybe on a expansion panel?


Sure, go look at Ken Stone's CGS202 schematics,

http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs202_reseq.html

I think it was mentioned in one of these threads already that you can just tap directly off the op-amp outputs for each band, no buffering needed. Don't quote me in case you blow your module up, lol.
bkbirge
I'll be happy to post Mk II of my mouser BOM/Project Cart for this if someone can confirm what i/o jacks & pots are needed for the daughterboard, kobiconn or erthenvar style. Also, are the standoff spacings the same as the first version?
oberkorn
bkbirge wrote
Quote:
Don't quote me in case you blow your module up, lol.

thanks! I remember seeing this info somewhere, but forgot where.
I'll have a go at it one of these days
negativspace
Yeah, accessing the individual band outs is simply a matter of tapping a few opamp outputs. Ken himself says buffers are unnecessary but an output resistor is a good idea.

The rub comes when you try to feed those signals back into the inputs of the ResEQ. They're out of phase (the HIGH and LOW inputs are inverted as they're mixed together - the individual taps come before this stage) and they need to be inverted for the sliders to work properly. Otherwise up = cut and down = boost for that one band.

That's what all the SMT work on this version is there to address - 10 inverting buffers plus the input mixer. This makes the controls logical and intuitive and the module doesn't feel 'hacked', even though it is. hihi
negativspace
malnatim wrote:
looks great, but is there any chance of an alternative manhattan analog panel also being offered?


Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it... cardinal rule in life right there. lol

My panel as shown is about $120. That's not my markup, that's what I pay. If you're willing to pay accordingly, we can talk. It's not cheap to have these prototype panels made and there won't be a run of printed ones.

bkbirge wrote:
Which jacks should be used on this build? I'm assuming erthenvar


Yessir.

clarke68 wrote:

Not at all! Let us know when you find a source for the odd-value Poly caps (once you've secured a set for yourself, of course).


I've always ordered mine from one of a few of the radio parts guys in eastern Europe that sell on eBay. Always good caps, generally both values are available somewhere on the 'bay at any given time.

If those aren't around I just use polypropylene for the lower 2 bands. You'd never know the difference. Mouser stocks styrenes for the other 8. You could use polypropylene there too, you'd never tell the difference, but styrene is cheaper so for once you don't have to choose between "affordable" and "ideal".
Low-Gain
I'll take a bunch.
negativspace
LeftyLogic wrote:
Are you offering the daughterboards on their own without the panel? And if so, would I be able to stuff this into a 4 Frac width (approximately 30 HP) panel? Seriously interested in getting one of these! It's peanut butter jelly time!


Yeah, I've always offered to sell bare daughterboards for builders in other formats, but I don't think I've had more than 1 or 2 takers.

It should fit perfectly into a 4FW panel, 1FW = 1.5", right? The CGS board and thus the daughterboard are exactly 6" wide.
sundog
I'd love one please w00t

happy to preorder.
malnatim
"My panel as shown is about $120. That's not my markup, that's what I pay. If you're willing to pay accordingly, we can talk. It's not cheap to have these prototype panels made and there won't be a run of printed ones."

both panels look great! i can't stretch to $120 though. i look forward the clarke panel.
tholos
im down for one set
cleaninglady
I be interesteded.
LeftyLogic
negativspace wrote:
Yeah, I've always offered to sell bare daughterboards for builders in other formats, but I don't think I've had more than 1 or 2 takers.

It should fit perfectly into a 4FW panel, 1FW = 1.5", right? The CGS board and thus the daughterboard are exactly 6" wide.

W00T! It's peanut butter jelly time! Count me in for a daughterboard then! hyper
negativspace
It's motherfucking bacon yo
kasey
Mark me down for one, please.

[Note that this thread says 1 set for me, but via email I made arrangements w/ clarke68 to change my order and pay for 2 set]
Suf-fuD
Count me in for one also please Guinness ftw!
n0rd
I'm interested...
cane creek
please put me in for one to thumbs up
catchpenny
i'd be interested in just a daughterboard

how tough is the smt stuff?
Stinktier86
In this particular build, is 5% versus the ideal 1% tolerances on caps an issue? Concidering the former seems to be 1/4 or less the price on mica caps. Is 5% bad enough to cause the infamous over-resonance in a specific key?

EDIT: anyway, i've decided that i'd happily order two. I'm okay with preorders, too thumbs up
mikecameron
I'm in for at least one set!
LektroiD
These look great... Count me in!
bkbirge
Which pots for the daughterboard? Trying to finalize the mouser BOM.
listentoaheartbeat
Definitely in for one set, would not mind preorder.
negativspace
Pots are 9mm Alpha-type.
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:
Pots are 9mm Alpha-type.


Thanks! One more question... the smd buffer op-amps are they already going to be soldered into the daughterboard or what and how many should be ordered?
migrations
Definitely interested in a panel/daughterboard combo! will preorder if thats what works best. looks AWESOME!!!
jflower
I'll jump on this as well.
gwaidan
Looks great! Just one query-the original was a joy to assemble because the connections on the daughterboard were MTA-header friendly, but your proto daughterboard doesn't seem to have the pads in neat 0.1" rows anymore...
4285407da1d2a63820a3007c1
I'll have a board and panel.
atari5200
I'm in for 1 set as well, and I'd be happy to pre-order it if it makes it easier, either way is fine with me
otherunicorn
Stinktier86 wrote:
In this particular build, is 5% versus the ideal 1% tolerances on caps an issue? Concidering the former seems to be 1/4 or less the price on mica caps. Is 5% bad enough to cause the infamous over-resonance in a specific key?

EDIT: anyway, i've decided that i'd happily order two. I'm okay with preorders, too thumbs up


Don't forget that this module was originally built with old tech parts. 5% will be more than adequate. The ear isn't able to pick up detuning in a filter to the same extent it is with a tone source.
Added to that, I have seen several STS ones with a 470k resistor installed where 910k should be - and so far no one seems to have noticed!
cyklopljud
otherunicorn wrote:
Stinktier86 wrote:
In this particular build, is 5% versus the ideal 1% tolerances on caps an issue? Concidering the former seems to be 1/4 or less the price on mica caps. Is 5% bad enough to cause the infamous over-resonance in a specific key?

EDIT: anyway, i've decided that i'd happily order two. I'm okay with preorders, too thumbs up


Don't forget that this module was originally built with old tech parts. 5% will be more than adequate. The ear isn't able to pick up detuning in a filter to the same extent it is with a tone source.
Added to that, I have seen several STS ones with a 470k resistor installed where 910k should be - and so far no one seems to have noticed!


Ken is the CGS202 updated PCB plated through hole?
otherunicorn
cyklopljud wrote:

Ken is the CGS202 updated PCB plated through hole?


It is. And ALL of the connections are in a single row along one side of the PCB. I'll try to get some art up in the next few days. I only managed to finish testing it yesterday.

livefreela
would love a set!
cyklopljud
otherunicorn wrote:
cyklopljud wrote:

Ken is the CGS202 updated PCB plated through hole?


It is. And ALL of the connections are in a single row along one side of the PCB. I'll try to get some art up in the next few days. I only managed to finish testing it yesterday.


We're always riding you Ken hyper
otherunicorn
cyklopljud
otherunicorn wrote:


Very nice Ken, and its verified ok.
Reality Checkpoint
cyklopljud wrote:
otherunicorn wrote:
Stinktier86 wrote:
In this particular build, is 5% versus the ideal 1% tolerances on caps an issue? Concidering the former seems to be 1/4 or less the price on mica caps. Is 5% bad enough to cause the infamous over-resonance in a specific key?

EDIT: anyway, i've decided that i'd happily order two. I'm okay with preorders, too thumbs up


Don't forget that this module was originally built with old tech parts. 5% will be more than adequate. The ear isn't able to pick up detuning in a filter to the same extent it is with a tone source.
Added to that, I have seen several STS ones with a 470k resistor installed where 910k should be - and so far no one seems to have noticed!


Ken is the CGS202 updated PCB plated through hole?


Here's a photo of the one I received earlier this week:

otherunicorn
Yes, there have been at least two successful builds.
clarke68
First off, huge thanks to everyone for the interest you've shown so far. You've gotten this project well off the ground! As such I'm happy to announce that pricing is confirmed at $70 for the Panel/Daughterboard set.

Super appreciate everyone who chimed in on the preorder question. Based on your responses, pre-orders are now open (see ordering instructions in the first post)! Pre-orders help me a lot (to know how many to order, plus reduce the amount of cash I need to shell out up front), but are not required. I can pretty much guarantee, however, that those of you who pre-order will have your stuff sooner than those who don't. 8_)

Right now I'm planning on placing the manufacturing order at the end of the week, which should allow me to start shipping out sets in the 2nd half of September. I will post any updates in this thread.

Thanks again!
windspirit
hey so I just bought the CGS board and of course now I am wondering what jacks this board is meant to be used with so that I can start compiling my BOM? It looks like those thick plastic ones in the image.

I guess knowing what other parts are used in the daughter board would be good. I am going to start looking at the old build thread but as far as I understand the daughter board has been changed.

No rush wink
clarke68
Oh hey, one more thing:

I put a complete list of the interest you've posted so far on the 2nd post of this thread. For everyone who was non-specific about quantity ("I'm interested", "I'll take one maybe two", etc.) I entered your quantity as 1 (or the lowest number you said). Please take a look and make sure the quantity I have for you is accurate, especially if you want more than one.
Reality Checkpoint
SlayerBadger!

Order in!

(Might need some help with those pesky polystyrene cap configurations though! What is axial/radial?)
cane creek
I'll Pre-order as soon as there's a P&P price set for UK Mr. Green

The PCB arrived this morning thumbs up
gwaidan
Axial-wire goes in one end and out the other. Radial-wires both come out the same end. Axial (provided its not too big) would be preferred here (see Ken's test build photo)
Reality Checkpoint
gwaidan wrote:
Axial-wire goes in one end and out the other. Radial-wires both come out the same end. Axial (provided its not too big) would be preferred here (see Ken's test build photo)


Excellent!

Thank you. thumbs up
yan6
I'll order too as soon as you quote shipping to Canada, although should be same as usa

cheers
clarke68
cane creek wrote:
I'll Pre-order as soon as there's a P&P price set for UK Mr. Green

Excellent point...I'm hoping to have international shipping rates sorted this week. I've already received international orders from several of you (thanks!) but I'll hold off on sending you an invoice for a few days.
negativspace
bkbirge wrote:
Thanks! One more question... the smd buffer op-amps are they already going to be soldered into the daughterboard or what and how many should be ordered?


There are 3 quad opamps (14-pin SOIC) and a handful of 0805 resistors - 10x 330R, 25x 47k. I think I have the count correct but I will doublecheck when I'm home later this week and am not going on memory. hihi

I'd rather not do the soldering myself, it's pretty easy once you get past the initial fear and I suggest everyone give it a shot.

gwaidan wrote:
Looks great! Just one query-the original was a joy to assemble because the connections on the daughterboard were MTA-header friendly, but your proto daughterboard doesn't seem to have the pads in neat 0.1" rows anymore...


Every connection visible in the photo is not only still on .1" centers but the power connections - which weren't before - are now. seriously, i just don't get it

The connections for the individual outs are not.

Also, Canadian shipping is never and has never been equal to domestic US rates... It's about halfway between US and overseas in my experience.
Stab Frenzy
I'll be ordering two, should I order now or wait til international shipping is worked out?
clarke68
Stab Frenzy wrote:
I'll be ordering two, should I order now or wait til international shipping is worked out?

Up to you...if you order now it will be another day or two before I can reply with an invoice. I need to package up a few panels and bring it to the post office to be weighed...hopefully have that done today.


yan6 wrote:
I'll order too as soon as you quote shipping to Canada, although should be same as usa

Unfortunately Canada is very much another country as far as the post office is concerned. I know I can ship to you USPS Priority for $20.55 (it will arrive quickly in a sturdy cardboard box). Cheaper option coming soon!
bkbirge
paid
fiocz
I'm in for one !! Please . w00t
noisefor
I'm in for one please!
clarke68
International shipping rates confirmed!

Canada
1 set: $9
2 sets: $10

Everywhere Else
1 set: $13
2 sets: $15

If you're ordering more than 2 sets I'll get you a custom quote. These prices are for International First Class, shipped in a bubble envelope with a little extra cardboard for support. The panels themselves are quite sturdy, but know that International First Class is a bare-bones shipping service, with no insurance, delivery confirmation, tracking, etc. Any extra services are available upon request, but the price will be a lot higher.
mush
Should I send a new order now?
clarke68
No need...I've got you. I'll be sending out a batch of international invoices tonight.
thresholdpeople
Apologies, I'll need to wait until my next paycheck at the end of this month to be able to swing this, but I'm in for sure.
unease
Deleted. Should have been a PM... :-)
cane creek
Payed thumbs up
talfred
I'd like a set, too!
gwaidan
In for a set!
Orbless
In for a set

Guinness ftw!
sammy123
It looks like all but the green LED sliders are not stocked at Mouser. Do we need 15mm shaft length on the sliders or will 10mm work too?
negativspace
Mouser has the 45mm Alpha sliders more readily available. If you can get the Bourns then they're identical in terms of pinout, but those seemed harder to get ahold of when I was prototyping.
sammy123
negativspace wrote:
Mouser has the 45mm Alpha sliders more readily available. If you can get the Bourns then they're identical in terms of pinout, but those seemed harder to get ahold of when I was prototyping.


I mean they only have the 45mm in green. The 45 is all that fits, right?
Pfurmel
^Yep 45mm only for this one.
negativspace
Yeah... hopefully they're going to restock the other colors. They had plenty while I was ordering over the spring!
gwaidan
IIRC you can pull out the LEDs and substitute with other 2mm rectangular LEDs-they're just a socketed push fit....
windspirit
its 2x3x4mm leds to be exact
windspirit
so does that mean there is a BOM available for the daughter board if people are getting parts?
onlyHzwhenI...
I'd like to get 2 sets, please. Firm commitment.

My apologies for having to wait a bit for payment, but am over the limit recently. That's hardly your fault though. I'd hate to miss out on this run, so please let me know by PM if my tardiness is a problem.

Thanks for doing these, looks great!

~JT
talfred
Probably some stupid questions, but:

when ordering the CGS202, should I choose the component kit or both the compnent and hardware kit?

And what part's are included in the component kit besides the main board?

I also wonder if all the other compnents can be ordered from one place (like Mouser) or if I have to get certain components from other companies..

This is my firs time building something that doesn't come in a full kit.
sammy123
windspirit wrote:
so does that mean there is a BOM available for the daughter board if people are getting parts?


No. Just the sliders are mentioned in the first post so I thought I would start shopping around.
thresholdpeople
talfred wrote:

when ordering the CGS202, should I choose the component kit or both the compnent and hardware kit?

And what part's are included in the component kit besides the main board?


talfred- I was wondering the same thing. Laurie from Elby said the following: "The component kit includes all components that directly mount on to the pcb including polystyrene and polyester capacitors.
The hardware kit contains the panel components. The normal kit includes pots as they are more compatible with the MOTM format (and are easier to fit than sliders). I can supply sliders if required but will need to know preferred slider length (45, 60, 100)."
clarke68
windspirit wrote:
so does that mean there is a BOM available for the daughter board if people are getting parts?

Not yet. There is a partial BOM in this post, a more complete one is coming soon.


onlyHzwhenI... wrote:
I'd hate to miss out on this run, so please let me know by PM if my tardiness is a problem.

Not a problem, you have plenty of time. At this point we should be shipping around the end of September, payment any time before then works.


talfred wrote:
when ordering the CGS202, should I choose the component kit or both the compnent and hardware kit?

And what part's are included in the component kit besides the main board?

I assume you're ordering from Elby? He explains the difference between the hardware & component kits on this page, but you'd definitely only want the component kit. Note that Elby only sells the parts kit, you still have to get CGS202 from Ken Stone here.

You'll still need to source the parts for the daughterboard...as I mentioned above, a complete BOM is coming soon.


talfred wrote:
I also wonder if all the other compnents can be ordered from one place (like Mouser) or if I have to get certain components from other companies..

This is my firs time building something that doesn't come in a full kit.

Like all things with SDIY, there's a bit of a learning curve to sourcing parts. There's a lot of details to pay attention to that aren't necessarily obvious...like the size/shape of the components (and the cryptic way these are described). The Elby component kit will help with this, as will the BOM when it becomes available. The daughterboard itself is pretty easy, really...the sliders are the only uncommon part, and maybe the two pots, but anyplace that carries those will have everything else, which is all pretty standard stuff.
sammy123
windspirit wrote:
its 2x3x4mm leds to be exact


Do you have a source for those? Thanks.

Edit: So it looks like Mouser carries Kingbright and other branded 2x3x4 square LEDs in various colors.
talfred
thresholdpeople wrote:
talfred- I was wondering the same thing. Laurie from Elby said the following: "The component kit includes all components that directly mount on to the pcb including polystyrene and polyester capacitors.
The hardware kit contains the panel components. The normal kit includes pots as they are more compatible with the MOTM format (and are easier to fit than sliders). I can supply sliders if required but will need to know preferred slider length (45, 60, 100)."


OK, so I wont need the hardware kit, thanks for letting me know!


clarke68 wrote:
talfred wrote:
when ordering the CGS202, should I choose the component kit or both the compnent and hardware kit?

And what part's are included in the component kit besides the main board?

I assume you're ordering from Elby? He explains the difference between the hardware & component kits on this page, but you'd definitely only want the component kit. Note that Elby only sells the parts kit, you still have to get CGS202 from Ken Stone here.

You'll still need to source the parts for the daughterboard...as I mentioned above, a complete BOM is coming soon.


talfred wrote:
I also wonder if all the other compnents can be ordered from one place (like Mouser) or if I have to get certain components from other companies..

This is my firs time building something that doesn't come in a full kit.

Like all things with SDIY, there's a bit of a learning curve to sourcing parts. There's a lot of details to pay attention to that aren't necessarily obvious...like the size/shape of the components (and the cryptic way these are described). The Elby component kit will help with this, as will the BOM when it becomes available. The daughterboard itself is pretty easy, really...the sliders are the only uncommon part, and maybe the two pots, but anyplace that carries those will have everything else, which is all pretty standard stuff.


Ok, I tought the Elby kit also included the CGS202 board.

So this list is what we need to build this:

1 - The CGS202 to buy from Ken Stone ($30)
2 - The component kit from Elby with all the components needed for the CGS board (16AUD)
3 - Manhattan Analogs daugtherboard and the Clarke panel ($70)
4 - The components needed for the daughterboard from Mouser or another company, including the LED sliders ($40)
5 - jacks from erthenvar
6 - (maybe) some hard to find parts for the daughterboard (polystyrene caps) from Ebay or european shop - EDIT - these caps are included in the Elby kit

Total price of this project will be about 155USD excluding shipping costs and jacks from Erthrnvar

This is actually kind of fun, but I could wish that the first post had a list like this to get a better understanding of what's needed, where to get it and what the total cost might be.

Anyway, great project from Negativspace and Clarke68!
negativspace
Daughterboard BOM should be in the $30-40US range.

A BOM might've been easier to post along with the start of this thread had I not been on vacation at that time... I'm back now, we'll get it sorted. thumbs up
thresholdpeople
The Elby kit comes with the poly caps, so don't worry about number 6.
Royalston
Please send me an invoice for one smile Looks great
talfred
thresholdpeople wrote:
The Elby kit comes with the poly caps, so don't worry about number 6.



Oh that's great! But why did they discuss where to get them earlier in this thread?
thresholdpeople
I assume most will source their own parts rather than buy the kit from Elby.
talfred
thresholdpeople wrote:
I assume most will source their own parts rather than buy the kit from Elby.


Why? Isn't that a lot of hassle? And the price of the Elby kit is rather good, isn't it?
Maybe they're hardcore Do-it-yourselfers..
sammy123
A good number of people, like myself, probably already have 90% of the parts reqired to build this so the kit doesn't male sense.
sammy123
A good number of people, like myself, probably already have 90% of the parts required to build this so the kit doesn't make sense.
negativspace
talfred wrote:
thresholdpeople wrote:
I assume most will source their own parts rather than buy the kit from Elby.


Why? Isn't that a lot of hassle? And the price of the Elby kit is rather good, isn't it?
Maybe they're hardcore Do-it-yourselfers..


Parts kits are like training wheels on a bicycle - a helpful crutch at the very beginning but a little bit ridiculous to use once you know what you're doing. Most of us are well past training wheels at this point.
lintfresh
Once you get good at sourcing parts (the hardest aspect of synth DIY in my opinion), parts kits only make sense if they're made up of rare stuff.
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:
talfred wrote:
thresholdpeople wrote:
I assume most will source their own parts rather than buy the kit from Elby.


Why? Isn't that a lot of hassle? And the price of the Elby kit is rather good, isn't it?
Maybe they're hardcore Do-it-yourselfers..


Parts kits are like training wheels on a bicycle - a helpful crutch at the very beginning but a little bit ridiculous to use once you know what you're doing. Most of us are well past training wheels at this point.


Then there's those shall-remain-nameless-builds where it's like riding a unicycle naked with no seat.
negativspace
Yes, there are always those as well. (I can't even imagine building a Klee without NV's panel kit and I do this for a living. hihi )
thresholdpeople
negativspace wrote:
Yes, there are always those as well. (I can't even imagine building a Klee without NV's panel kit and I do this for a living. hihi )


I agree, but I must say there is something extremely satisfying about a well tensioned wire harness....
negativspace
Sounds hot. eek!
thresholdpeople

Oh it is... it is.

Crazy Joe: http://www.crazyjoe.org/studio.html
monkfish
i'm in for 1 set!
ghostcode
Sent an email, add me to the list. thumbs up
Scvnger
Please add me to the list for 2 kits and send me an invoice.

Thank you
pulse_divider
I'd like 2, please.
pulse_divider
Also, I haven't seen this mentioned yet...

I recently ordered a CGS 202 board and it looks like there is a new revision out (marked 1.1 on PCB). From what I can see, here are the differences to the old ones:
---solder pads are now double-sided
---dual spacing for many caps, so much more polystyrene-friendly
---wiring pads are now located to match the layout of the euro daughterboard




[/img]
daluxer
put me on the list for 1! Excited to go with one training wheel? w00t
talfred
For those who need the component kit from Elby, they also have the CGS202 board
Paradigm X
Possibly odd question; can you provide just the daughterboard (x2) ? Or do you have any left over from the last run? I want to build a stereo version in a rack.

Cheers
negativspace
Yeah, I'll sell bare daughterboards if you're working with a different panel. thumbs up
Paradigm X
Rockin' Banana!

Great stuff. I really fancied a stereo rackmount version.

Awesome, thanks J!

Edit; although thinking about it, may as well make a small self contained euro rack... seems silly to reinvent the wheel, so to speak.

hmmm..... Dead Banana

I shall consider this further.

Cheers, BEn
jjacobkelly
One set please.
simot99
Please put me down for 1 set.
apoisontree
Great stuff. Please count me in for one set.

Thanks!
Reality Checkpoint
I now have everything I need to build this beauty to hand!

Roll on the production! w00t
daluxer
BOM coming soon?

1) cgs ordered
2) elby component kit ordered
3) panel & daughterboard ordered
4) materials to populate the daughterboard, jacks/sliders/wires?

I just want to order in time so the panel/daughterboard is the last thing that arrives. thumbs up
clarke68
Just got back from a long weekend away, so it's update time.

First off, huge super-thanks to everyone who has paid up front...you're making this run *much* easier on my end. Most of the remaining details have been sorted out, so I'm now ready to place the manufacturing order for the panels.

I'm going to order a few extras...which means that I'll still be taking orders for a little while longer, while supplies last. If your name is on the 2nd post in this thread, you are good: we will have a set (or sets) for you. If you haven't paid yet I'll just need that at some point before I ship...should be around the end of September at this point.

If you're not on the 2nd post, and you want to get in on this run, now is the time to move! Leave a post in the thread to reserve or send me a PM to order/pay.

Thanks again for all your enthusiasm & support!
FetidEye
cool.

my 4 CGS pcb's have already arrived. (1 extra for mr. earlabs)
Tonight we'll start soldering those.
blip
Pm sent for one set.
Thanks !!
designator
Interested in two!
tb323
Email sent for two sets. Thanks!
Orbless
Is there anywhere else to get the CGS202 pcb? It seems to be out of stock.
Reality Checkpoint
Have you tried Elby?

http://www.elby-designs.com
Orbless
Reality Checkpoint wrote:
Have you tried Elby?

http://www.elby-designs.com


Saw that, it seems like you can't get just the pcb though. I will email them.
daluxer
Are the LEDs in the sliders normal 2x3mm? Couldnt find it in the data sheet.
And since you can only order 350 sliders with red leds - I rather order 10 green and replace the leds.


edit : anyone have a BOM for Mouser?

This far I got :
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=114a2 8e654


Without the cgs pcb parts(because elby comp kit). Please correct parts(not sure about spacers and the amount) & link parts for the daughterboard. I.e. op amps & resistors.

cheers thumbs up
windspirit
has the part list been released for the daughter board? If so could it please be added to the first post/ linked to in the first post?
Monobass
I'll be stocking The Panel, Daughterboard and CGS PCB thumbs up
Paradigm X
This is fun! This is fun!

Superthonk!
Raytracer
windspirit wrote:
has the part list been released for the daughter board? If so could it please be added to the first post/ linked to in the first post?
+1
Reality Checkpoint
Monobass wrote:
I'll be stocking The Panel, Daughterboard and CGS PCB thumbs up


Fantastic news (not) after I have ordered from the US and Australia when I could have just walked down the road to pick one up!!!!

Will you be stocking the component kit as well?
clarke68
edit: whoops, "replied" to the 2nd post when I meant to "edit". Oh well. Thanks to everyone who has paid so far!

clarke68 wrote:
Order List

4285407da1d2a63820a3007c1 - 1
ablearcher - 1
agitprop - 1
apoisontree - 1
atari5200 - 1
bennelong.bicyclist - 1
bkbirge - 4
blip - 1
cane creek - 1
ClausF - 1
cleahy - 1
cleaninglady - 1
cyklopjud - 1
daluxer - 1
davidschwan1 - 2
designator - 2
earlabs - 1
FetidEye - 3
fiocz - 1
frozencore - 1
gbiz - 1
ghostcode - 1
gwaidan - 1
jaidee - 1
jestern77 - 2
jflower - 1
jjacobkelly - 1
kasey - 2
kires - 1
leber - 1
LektroiD - 1
lessavyfav - 1
limpmeat - 1
lintfresh - 1
listentoaheartbeat - 1
livefreela - 1
lombrose - 1
Low-Gain - 10
magneticstripper - 2
makers - 1
malnatim - 1
mapmap - 1
meshka - 1
migrations - 1
mikecameron - 1
monkfish - 1
mush - 1
nangu - 3
ndkent - 1
noisefor - 1
nord - 2
olga42 - 1
onlyHzwhenI... - 2
orbless - 1
paperwork - 1
pfurmel - 1
pulse divider - 2
prscrptn - 2
Raytracer - 1
Reality Checkpoint - 1
recompass - 1
rico loverde - 1
Royalston - 1
sammy123 - 1
Scvnger - 2
shapesofglory - 2
simot99 - 1
spacenoodle - 1
spotta - 1
spneca - 1
Stab Frenzy - 2
stephenvit - 1
Stinkier86 - 2
sundog - 1
Synesthesia - 1
Suf-fuD - 1
talfred - 1
tb323 - 2
thecureForSin - 1
tholos - 1
thresholdpeople - 1
udbhav - 1
unease - 1
vicpop - 1
wellurban - 1
windspirit - 1
woodster - 2
xahdrez - 1
yan6 - 1

Payment received from people in blue
makers
Sorry if this was addressed previously, i couldn't find anything... It looks like the daughterboard is designed for Kobicon style jacks. Is that correct?[/quote]
clarke68
makers wrote:
It looks like the daughterboard is designed for Kobicon style jacks. Is that correct?

No, it uses PJ301s, aka "Erthenvar" jacks:
http://erthenvar.com/store/35mm/jack35mmv
http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj301bm-3-5mm-jack-sockets-x50/

Negativspace should be posting a complete BOM once he gets back from Knobcon.
ablearcher
for anyone else wondering, I emailed Ken about the availability of CGS202 and he said:

"Restock will be in a week or two. They are being made at the moment"

w00t
Endosine
I'd like to get two sets if you still have some available. Thanks!
dropmotif
One set for me, please.
windspirit
Raytracer wrote:
windspirit wrote:
has the part list been released for the daughter board? If so could it please be added to the first post/ linked to in the first post?
+1


Anything on this? I am getting ready to order the parts for this...
bennelong.bicyclist
Can anyone recommend a good source for reasonably-priced polystyrene caps for the CGS202? I want mine to look like this:



Prices for polystyrene caps locally (Australia) via element14/Farnell are outrageous, and Mouser and DigiKey don't seem to carry them, and least not all the values required. Reichelt in Germany have a better range and reasonable prices, although the shipping cost is eye watering, and they don't accept Paypal or credit card payment from Australia, only direct bank transfers in advance - so they are out.

Any reliable eBay vendors? How about these - 30+ year old NOS, though:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Polystyrene-Capacitors-4-10-15-22-33-100pF- 120-150-180-220-330-470-560-680pF-NOS-/261477911940

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Polystyrene-Capacitors-1nF-1-5-2-2-2-7-3-3- 4-7-6-8-10-12-15-22-33-47-82-nF-NOS-/261477911941
bennelong.bicyclist
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good source for reasonably-priced polystyrene caps for the CGS202?


Ah hah! Banzai! Reasonable prices, very reasonable shipping charges, and they take credit cards and PayPal:

https://www.banzaimusic.com/Styroflex/
bennelong.bicyclist
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good source for reasonably-priced polystyrene caps for the CGS202?


Ah hah! Banzai! Reasonable prices, very reasonable shipping charges, and they take credit cards and PayPal:

https://www.banzaimusic.com/Styroflex/


I ended up buying a complete set of polystyrene caps for the CG202 from the delightfully vintage-looking Rush-On-Line.

A full BOM for the panel PCB would be really handy so that parts can be ordered in anticipation of the PCB and panel.
kisielk
Monobass wrote:
I'll be stocking The Panel, Daughterboard and CGS PCB thumbs up


How can I be notified when those are available? Would love to just put one order in...
corpusjonsey
Count me in for a set!
FetidEye
what voltage should the polystyrene caps have?
i will buy most from banzai, but they don't have the 22nF and the 47nF
Reality Checkpoint
IIRC they should be over 50v.
daluxer
Daughterboard BOM?
c1t1zen
2 and order emailed. Thanks.
negativspace
Daughterboard BOM will come this week, sorry for the delay everyone. I'm just now getting back to normal following Knobcon. The last prototype is finished save the individual outputs - I haven't wired them up because I haven't relocated the correct tap points on Ken's new board. I know it won't change the BOM but I like to be done with something before I start telling people what to buy to build it.

The second I verify the board I will be making my PCB order; ETA 2 weeks for delivery. I think Clarke's on a similar schedule with MPC so these should start hitting the post by late October.
negativspace
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
Mouser and DigiKey don't seem to carry them, and least not all the values required.


Mouser does carry them - I received a restock on two of the values this very afternoon - but for some reason they don't show up on the search correctly. I have them in my order history, though, and when I go to them from there they're in stock, ready to ship, with plenty of units available. seriously, i just don't get it

I'll have to compile a list of direct part #s from my history. I'll add that to the daughterboard BOM. For what it's worth I did fill out some feedback to Mouser letting them know of the search issue.

The largest two values must be found elsewhere, I grab 'em from eBay personally. There are a couple of sellers in eastern Europe that usually have nice ones for sale at a good price.
bennelong.bicyclist
daluxer wrote:
Daughterboard BOM?


Yes, at this point a full BOM for the panel PCB would be really handy so that parts can be ordered to arrive at about the same time as the PCB and panel.
daluxer
By the way, are you shipping the daughterboard + the panel in padded envelopes? That would probably be way faster & cheaper than an actual packet. Atleast for international shipments.
kires
CGS202 back in stock, ordered today applause

http://www.cgs.synth.net/pcb/index.html
kires
I was wondering about shipping time of panels+daughter board, in the post is mentioned late September, are these shipping anytime soon?

also I'm trying to source slider potentiometers here in UK & I got bit confused as on top of the thread it's stated Bourns 45mm but it's linked to 60mm version, which one is correct? Would these be ok? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/potentiometers/7703131/

I noticed some discussion about 45mm sliders so I assume that should be fine but still I'd appreciate someone confirming that.
daluxer
Quote:
I got bit confused as on top of the thread it's stated Bourns 45mm but it's linked to 60mm version, which one is correct?


45 ones are linked too. Maybe you got mixed up with the old and new thread thumbs up

The ones you picked should be fine.
kires
Thanks for clarifying that.

Cheers Guinness ftw!
regenbot
I'll take one set if it's not too late eek!
ppccdd
This might be silly question (and possibly been answered before) but will the lowest setting of each EQ slider kill the signal totally at that level or will it still push something thru?
kires
just got some clarification from clarke68 regarding slider pots:

"The key is in the part #:

PTL30-15G1-103B1

The "30" in "PTL30" is the length of travel. You're looking for PTL45.

Also, the "103" in "103B1" is the resistance. You're looking for 503, or basically a 50k pot. You might confirm with negativspace, this may not matter as long as all your pots are the same. The "B1" is the taper...pretty sure A is audio (logarithmic) and B is linear. Personal preference there (or whatever you can get your hands on).

The other number that isn't critical but still matters to people is the "15G1". "15" is the length of the lever in mm, "G" is the color of the LED (this will be either R, O, G, A, or W (red, orange, green, amber, or white).

All the details are in the data sheet:

http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/54/PTL-76392.pdf "

so the ones I linked above aren't good
corpusjonsey
I just ordered the parts for the CGS202 and the slider pots from Mouser. All they had were green Led ones as was stated before. I got the Polystyrene caps from JustRadios.com in Canada. Really looking forward to building this!
bkbirge
I got all green too. I expect it will look pretty awesome. Not enough green going on in euro land. Fight the blue!
Reality Checkpoint
bkbirge wrote:
I got all green too. I expect it will look pretty awesome. Not enough green going on in euro land. Fight the blue!


Green is good!

I wonder how things are progressing?
negativspace
I'm patiently waiting for my boards to arrive. Clarke has the panels. Won't be long. w00t
bennelong.bicyclist
negativspace wrote:
I'm patiently waiting for my boards to arrive. Clarke has the panels. Won't be long. w00t


Any ETA on a BOM?
woodster
bkbirge wrote:
I got all green too. I expect it will look pretty awesome. Not enough green going on in euro land. Fight the blue!


I am rather keen on the ole green -



Green is a good scheme Mr. Green
flyingMono
Am I too late to get in on this project?
clarke68
The update I've been most looking forward to posting: negativspace has received the daughterboard PCBs, everything fits perfectly (which always makes me breathe a sign of relief), and they are on their way to me. All systems appear to be go to start shipping next week!

And we have a BOM:

Quote:

SMT Components
[3] TL074 (SOIC-14)
[10] 330R Resistor (0805)
[25] 47k Resistor (0805)
[2] 0.1uF Ceramic capacitor (0805)

Through-hole Components
[18] Kobiconn 16PJ138 jacks
[10] Bourns or Alpha 45mm LED sliders
[2] Alpha 9mm pots or similar, value 50k Audio.
[10] LED Current-limiting Resistors - value varies by slider brand and LED color. Adjust to taste.
[2] 22uF Electrolytic capacitors
[2] 1N4001 Diode
[1] 2x5-pin Eurorack power header

Hardware
[6] 10mm standoffs (between panel and daughterboard)*
[4] Standoffs (between CGS202 and daughterboard)**
[?] Appropriate hardware based on the particular choices made for the two above items.

* = I highly recommend metric M2.5 screws & 10mm standoffs. The panel holes are too small for M3 screws and #4-40 standoffs don't come in 10mm lengths. Unlike many projects, the standoff height in this one is somewhat critical. It has to match the jacks.

** = The height of these is noncritical, you may as well stick to 10mm if you're ordering them but they don't have to match anything else.


And, last but not least, some new photos:







daluxer
Looking great! screaming goo yo w00t


edit: wait, the SMT parts aren't presoldered? woah
DJBRUTAL
Interested in one set if there are any available.
mush
daluxer wrote:
edit: wait, the SMT parts aren't presoldered? woah


SMD is IMHO easier than thru-hole. Fast and clean. You'll see! smile
VanEck
Are there plans for full kits of these any time in the near future?
daluxer
Yup you are probably right - I just watched a video on how to do it. Does not seem that hard - just the op amps maybe. 8_)
bezier
Would it be hard to "hack" the individual outs in a "standard" build? Looks great, really thumbs up
regenbot
hmmm..... Would these sliders work or is the 10mm shaft too short? I think it migh be waah and the 15mm are stocked next year...

http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PTL45-10O0-503B2/?qs=sGAEpiM ZZMtC25l1F4XBU3cnl5AmhWdlKFaFqrvIeQ8%3d
woodster
regenbot wrote:
hmmm..... Would these sliders work or is the 10mm shaft too short? I think it migh be waah and the 15mm are stocked next year...

http://fi.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/PTL45-10O0-503B2/?qs=sGAEpiM ZZMtC25l1F4XBU3cnl5AmhWdlKFaFqrvIeQ8%3d


They are the same ones as listed in the first post.
They'd better work as I've got 20 of them, waiting for two panels...
regenbot
Not exatly same, the ones on the first post have 15mm shaft.Sliders on my voltages seems to have 15mm shaft and those would be really close to panel, if they were 10mm.


woodster wrote:

They are the same ones as listed in the first post.
They'd better work as I've got 20 of them, waiting for two panels...
clarke68
VanEck wrote:
Are there plans for full kits of these any time in the near future?

Not from me, but perhaps from Thonk, Synthcube, or Elby (all of whom will be carrying these).

VanEck wrote:
Would these sliders work or is the 10mm shaft too short? I think it migh be waah and the 15mm are stocked next year...

I'm not really sure...the data sheet (frustratingly) doesn't indicate the height of the pot body, but it looks like it's around 10mm. So, if you use the recommended 10mm standoffs for the daughterboard, you should get the full length of your pot's lever (minus the thickness of the panel).

We'll see if negativspace can post a "side view", so you can see how much lever you get above the panel with 15mm.

Keep in mind that the Alpha LED pots have the same pinout, so these should work also:
http://www.jameco.com/1/1/53450-ra4545f-20g-15lc-b50k-c-50k%CF%89-slid e-potentiometer-green-led.html
regenbot
Thanks for this thumbs up Maybe i'll find some european source

clarke68 wrote:

Keep in mind that the Alpha LED pots have the same pinout, so these should work also:
http://www.jameco.com/1/1/53450-ra4545f-20g-15lc-b50k-c-50k%CF%89-slid e-potentiometer-green-led.html
negativspace
15mm sliders are plenty long enough for this project but I think 10s would be pushing it. If you use the 10mm spacers specified in the BOM it is ~5.25mm between the top of the slider body to the top surface of the panel. A 10mm lever would only stick ~4.75mm from the surface of the module. That's enough to expose the entire LED, but not much more.

If you use this module as a set-and-forget type of EQ then they should work perfectly well. On the other hand if you're into "playing" this sliders it might be a little cumbersome.
negativspace
mush wrote:
daluxer wrote:
edit: wait, the SMT parts aren't presoldered? woah


SMD is IMHO easier than thru-hole. Fast and clean. You'll see! smile


I don't know it I find it easier, but I don't find it any harder. Give it a shot! I don't want anyone to declare that they can't do it until they've actually tried it. I suspect 99% of you will find it far easier than you'd expected it to be.

0805 and SOIC are both do-able with normal through-hole equipment. You'll need a nice pair of tweezers with a very fine point - I love the ~$4 set I bought from Pro's Kit - and a soldering iron with a reasonably fine (1-3mm) point. (Weller ETJ is my go-to.) Regular .032" solder works fine.

It's almost 2015... really is time to start learning this stuff. For better or worse it's the future, for all of us.
daluxer
clarke68 wrote:
makers wrote:
It looks like the daughterboard is designed for Kobicon style jacks. Is that correct?

No, it uses PJ301s, aka "Erthenvar" jacks:
http://erthenvar.com/store/35mm/jack35mmv
http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj301bm-3-5mm-jack-sockets-x50/

Negativspace should be posting a complete BOM once he gets back from Knobcon.



Now I'm confused? Which ones to pick up? I suppose Knobiconn as said in the BOM?
clarke68
daluxer wrote:
clarke68 wrote:
makers wrote:
It looks like the daughterboard is designed for Kobicon style jacks. Is that correct?

No, it uses PJ301s, aka "Erthenvar" jacks:
http://erthenvar.com/store/35mm/jack35mmv
http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj301bm-3-5mm-jack-sockets-x50/

Negativspace should be posting a complete BOM once he gets back from Knobcon.



Now I'm confused? Which ones to pick up? I suppose Knobiconn as said in the BOM?


Sorry about that! I was basing my answer on negativspace's answer in this post, but I guess he changed his mind since then. When in doubt, go with what it says in the BOM!
bennelong.bicyclist
Hand soldering 0805 and SOIC-14 parts is really easy. I recommend watching the first 14 minutes of this video (although he forgets to mention flux pens until about 16 minutes in - but with SOIC-14 chips you won't need to use the drag solder technique he demonstrates starting at 15 mins - just solder each leg individually. No need at all for solder paste. I agree with him about the need for fine solder - 0.5mm or less, I use 0.4mm no-clean flux core solder, and the need for a fine chisel tip):

negativspace
daluxer wrote:
Now I'm confused? Which ones to pick up? I suppose Knobiconn as said in the BOM?


It has to be the Kobiconn for this one. Erthenvar jacks won't work. (Too tall, and I didn't put in holes for the ground tabs.)
bennelong.bicyclist
OK, given that Bourns 45mm LED sliders appear to be currently unobtainable except with 10mm levers, I'd just like to confirm before ordering that the Alpha RA4545F-20G-15LC-B50K-C sliders will definitely fit and will work? The pinout doesn't seem to be noted on the data sheet, but perhaps it is standardised and identical to the Bourns sliders?

EDIT: Found some full data sheets for the Alpha sliders, and confirmed they have identical pin configuration as the Bourns sliders.

I'd still still appreciate suggestions for what value of resistor to use with them? I don't want the sliders to be too bright.
flyingMono
negativspace wrote:
mush wrote:
daluxer wrote:
edit: wait, the SMT parts aren't presoldered? woah


SMD is IMHO easier than thru-hole. Fast and clean. You'll see! smile


I don't know it I find it easier, but I don't find it any harder. Give it a shot! I don't want anyone to declare that they can't do it until they've actually tried it. I suspect 99% of you will find it far easier than you'd expected it to be.

0805 and SOIC are both do-able with normal through-hole equipment. You'll need a nice pair of tweezers with a very fine point - I love the ~$4 set I bought from Pro's Kit - and a soldering iron with a reasonably fine (1-3mm) point. (Weller ETJ is my go-to.) Regular .032" solder works fine.

It's almost 2015... really is time to start learning this stuff. For better or worse it's the future, for all of us.


As someone who was terrified of trying SMT, I can attest it's not that bad. Just watch a couple tutorials, don't rush, and it will probably be fine.

I soldered the USB chips on 2 x0xb0xes and they work as intended. Guinness ftw!
prscrptn
negativspace wrote:
0805 and SOIC are both do-able with normal through-hole equipment. You'll need a nice pair of tweezers with a very fine point - I love the ~$4 set I bought from Pro's Kit - and a soldering iron with a reasonably fine (1-3mm) point. (Weller ETJ is my go-to.)



here:proskit.com
negativspace
The Alpha pots work perfectly, all of my prototypes were done with those. thumbs up

With the Alphas I used RED and ORANGE, and 1.2k resistors for both. The Bourns LEDs are different. For the GREENS I use 47k, RED 1.8k an ORANGE 2.2k. (If memory serves... been a while on those.)
bennelong.bicyclist
negativspace wrote:
The Alpha pots work perfectly, all of my prototypes were done with those. thumbs up

With the Alphas I used RED and ORANGE, and 1.2k resistors for both. The Bourns LEDs are different. For the GREENS I use 47k, RED 1.8k an ORANGE 2.2k. (If memory serves... been a while on those.)


OK, thanks. I've ordered green LED Alphas - I think I'd better socket the LED current-limiting resistors - nothing worse than overly-bright LEDs.
negativspace
What I do (or did, the first time) was install all sliders and then only one resistor. Then power it on and check the brightness. Once your test slider looks OK, install the rest of the resistors.

The values I listed result in very manageable levels of brightness... I don't like modules capable of landing aircraft in heavy fog either. hihi
clarke68
Hey all,

The first few orders went out this morning...some US orders will probably start landing in people's mailboxes by Wednesday.

There are quite a few of you to get through, I've found in the past that I'm only good for a handful of orders each day before I start making mistakes...so I will keep moving forward slow but sure. Lines at the post office start getting long after Thanksgiving, so I'm definitely shooting to have everything shipped out over the next few weeks.

If your name is in the 2nd post of this thread I have a set (or sets) reserved for you...I'll be sending out reminders to those of you who haven't paid yet, otherwise sit tight and I'll ship your order as soon as I can.

At this point I am sold out and am not taking any new orders.

Thanks for all your support (and patience)!
flyingMono
Sweeeet! 8_)
negativspace
w00t

A couple quick notes on polystyrene capacitors... I put together an order for a bunch of them last night so I can build the commissions I'm on the hook for. At Mouser the part code for the series is "23PSxxx" - so you'd type 23PS in the search box and select "Capacitors" under "Passive Components." Should take you to the list, then you can pick your values from there.

For US customers a great alternative source is Small Bear - Mouser was out of 680pF but SBE has a couple thousand in stock. (As well as many/all other necessary values.) thumbs up
fuzzbass
Not finding 22n or 47n values for styrene caps at my usual US sources (SBE, Mouser, Tayda, etc). Yeah I see I can get them from UK, but wow shipping! How make-or-break is styrene in these values? Ken Stone indicates styrene is more important for the lower values.

I have some TAD "mustard" caps (film/foil); they are huge but I could probably make them fit. I tried to learn something about them but ran into a tidal wave of voodoo BS (ex: All Caps should be replaced by a qualified repair person every ten years). Mustard caps (like Orange Drop caps) are intended for tone bones who lie awake at night wondering what cap is going to make their Telecaster sound vintage-y. It seems likely these are made to simulate the idiosyncratic nature of old guitar amp caps (i.e. mediocre by design).

I could just put in film box caps too.

Anyone here have some insight? If not, I guess I'll be the one on the bleeding edge of this.
negativspace
Those values are "specialty" values, evidently, because none of the usual retailers carry anything above 0.01uF. seriously, i just don't get it

I get mine on eBay from eastern Europe, generally $1-3/ea.

As far as how critical it is to use styrene there, I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Get a couple pairs of polypropylene box caps and call it good. Think about how often you do detailed musical stuff in the 29-61Hz range...
jestern77
Hi there cause I'm kind of noobie to this, and also cause it can be useful for others, I collected the links to the material (at least for Europe).

can somebody double check that it makes sense?
(I'm not trying to promote any shop tell me if this is not acceptable here on the forum)


Also I think the sliders come already with LEDs right?

In that case the entry "LED Current-limiting Resistors - value varies by slider brand and LED color. Adjust to taste." can be disregarded ... am I right?




TL074
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TL074BCDR/?qs=sGA EpiMZZMtCHixnSjNA6Dh9CQmOfcFcr0gNaxkh7h0%3d

330 resistor
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/CRCW1206330RFKEAHP/?qs= sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YTYXi3BnBKStgvnsDFDdcFc%3d

0.1uF condenser
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/TDK/C0603X5R1E104K030BB/?qs=sGAEpiM ZZMukHu%252bjC5l7Yc7jKDSABsrtfbTIioEwuI8%3d

47k resistor
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Yageo/RT0805FRE0747KL/?qs=Fz%2FrpjP uTcHR%2FQZkx3r7Fw%3D%3D

jacks
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/16PJ138/?qs=oQGaBZOgWEbaXS fkKZSXCA%3D%3D

sliders
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RA4545F-20R-15LC-B10K- C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtC25l1F4XBU1sVVnjISoIHISSkqx%252byhB4%3d

pots
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV09AF-40-20K-B50K/?qs =sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YcW8hwzaM9LfTJf2K4tWQ64%3d

22 uF capacitor
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-EE2C220/?qs=sGAEpiMZZ MukHu%252bjC5l7YTwMSUusV%2frIZwU5et7dxEQ%3d

diode
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N4001/?qs= sGAEpiMZZMtbRapU8LlZD6Aoap19JQAxIIoiB5N1kdc%3d

headers male
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Harwin/M50-3500542/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvl X3nhDDO4ACiIlPQK9Fd3lUoMpYilDgk%3d

headers female
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/FCI/71600-010LF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3n hDDO4AIttwxc5eO1Q7h%252by%252bu0ml0M%3d

standoffs
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Harwin/R25-1001002/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtr de5aJd3qw4L16p8RLiBxWo5MSsG4dBo%3d

screws
http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/29301/?qs=sGAE piMZZMvIGAkyPb0MlM0uyjM6b505
negativspace
No, you still need to pick your resistor values based on which brand and color the LEDs are and also how bright you want them. The LEDs come with the sliders but the resistors do not.
fuzzbass
I did find a supplier for high value styrene caps in US, surplussales.com. I have never purchased from them before and make no recommendation, but they claim to have .022uf and .047uf values. I ordered just enough for this project so we'll see.

I won't be actually building this for months due to non-availability of the sliders. I think Bournes is a mom and pop shop. Gonna get worse when the TTSH round II hits the street.
fuzzbass
negativspace wrote:
No, you still need to pick your resistor values based on which brand and color the LEDs are and also how bright you want them. The LEDs come with the sliders but the resistors do not.


Yeah I bought a bunch of different colored rectangular LEDs from a seller in Asia. They were all good physical fit for the Bournes sliders. The LEDs came with "free 100R resistor".

My education began when I hooked them up using those resistors, resulting in:
a. Retinal damage.
b. Burns on fingers from touching those resistors.

Colors are all over the map too, many of them not pleasing at all. The "pink" LEDs I got are not pink, more like high intensity lavender. Perfect for Hello Kitty themed modules.
jestern77
Hi negativ space there is still two questions on my side:

In general I'd calculate that resistance as

R = (12- Vled )/ current = (10 -2 )/20mA = 560 Ohm

1 question does that make sense for a normal green LED illuminated normally?

2 question I can choose my sliders to have different values, say 10K, where does that go in the calculations?

sorry hmmm.....
negativspace
1. Using math for this task is a waste of time IMO. You're not trying to calculate the resistor in order achieve the LED's specced current consumption, you're trying to set its brightness to a level you find aesthetically pleasing. FWIW I use 47k resistors with the green Bourns parts (like I posted a couple of days back) so 560 Ohms would likely produce enough light to read in the dark from 20 feet away. hihi

It's like putting salt in a recipe - there's a reason it usually says "add salt to taste" because there's really no objective way to measure "salty enough" any more than there is a way to measure "bright enough."

2. The slider value is irrelevant here. The LED is in no way related to the actual potentiometer part of the slider. It's just an LED.
the bad producer
Won't these work? Unless there is a particular reason one must use 50K on this project as opposed to either 50K or 100K as Ken suggests on his site?

Mouser - 652-PTL45-15O0-104B1 = Orange





bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
OK, given that Bourns 45mm LED sliders appear to be currently unobtainable except with 10mm levers...
jestern77
ah ok all clear now.. thanks,
thought I had to calculate smart stuff for a moment..
yeah!
bkbirge
Got my panels in the mail, they look great!
windspirit
Does the polystyrene sound *that* much better? I am hunting around for them and I will probably have to buy from 3-4 different sources and spend $40-60 more. Especially the 10uf cap, in polystyrene that costs $20. Ouch.

Ken says he built his all with film, I am leaning more towards that direction.
bkbirge
I built mine with all ceramic. All film is not a problem. It's a feedback distortion screaming sagging magic color box not a high fidelity API or Sontec. If you hear a difference and decide you have to use poly then more power to you, but to my ears in this circuit there is not much point.
negativspace
It's not mandatory to use this thing for distortion screaming sagging magic color, you know. It actually sounds fantastic in a more subtle role. Use whatever caps you like, though, it only makes a bit of a difference in the overall sound of the machine. It's like waxing and polishing a car vs. just washing it. Very subtle difference, most wouldn't notice, but it does give you that extra "something."

Not sure what the resistance has always been to using styrene caps, though. They're cheaper than polypropylene, on par with polyester, and are not hard to find. You gain somewhere between very little and nothing at all by using polyester instead. seriously, i just don't get it
negativspace
the bad producer wrote:
Won't these work? Unless there is a particular reason one must use 50K on this project as opposed to either 50K or 100K as Ken suggests on his site?

Mouser - 652-PTL45-15O0-104B1 = Orange


I've got a set of the 100k sliders to test out, haven't finished the build as I'm waiting on a few parts from Mouser but yes they should work fine. I'm expecting my "test" to be a bit of a formality.
bennelong.bicyclist
windspirit wrote:
Does the polystyrene sound *that* much better? I am hunting around for them and I will probably have to buy from 3-4 different sources and spend $40-60 more. Especially the 10uf cap, in polystyrene that costs $20. Ouch


The 4.7 uF and 10 uF caps are polarised electrolytics, aren't they? You don't need polystyrenes for those!
negativspace
^ Correct! The 10uF are for power supply decoupling and the 4.7uF are AC-coupling caps, one for the Lower and one for the Upper bands.

If you go to the CGS202 page and look at the photo Ken's posted you can see which should be high-quality (in the photo they're the 8 sets of large box caps plus the two sets of styrenes) and which are noncritical. (The ceramic caps between the chips, etc.)

Using polystyrene for anything other than the pair needed for each of the 10 bands is pointless.
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:
It actually sounds fantastic in a more subtle role.


Blasphemer!
negativspace
WE ARE ALL INDIVIDUALS!

(Mine gets used for both kinds of patches... it's magic as a "normal" EQ on the 606, for example. Did you know the 606 actually has a kick drum? hihi)
windspirit
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
windspirit wrote:
Does the polystyrene sound *that* much better? I am hunting around for them and I will probably have to buy from 3-4 different sources and spend $40-60 more. Especially the 10uf cap, in polystyrene that costs $20. Ouch


The 4.7 uF and 10 uF caps are polarised electrolytics, aren't they? You don't need polystyrenes for those!


Ah I was thinking they were for tuning the loooooooow end, thanks for pointing that out.
negativspace
The relevant capacitors for the two low bands are the .022 and .047s - and those generally cost me somewhere between $1 and $2/ea on eBay when I go after them. (And those are also the best places to just say to hell with it and use box caps.)

Using Mouser/Small Bear/etc you should be able to pick up all 16 styrenes for the upper 8 bands for roughly $6, shipping not included.
flyingMono
negativspace wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Won't these work? Unless there is a particular reason one must use 50K on this project as opposed to either 50K or 100K as Ken suggests on his site?

Mouser - 652-PTL45-15O0-104B1 = Orange


I've got a set of the 100k sliders to test out, haven't finished the build as I'm waiting on a few parts from Mouser but yes they should work fine. I'm expecting my "test" to be a bit of a formality.


The CGS202 parts list says 50K or 100K so either one should be fine. I'd like to know the yield of your "test".
regenbot
d'oh! mouser order sent just before this post. Still thanks for the tip thumbs up

the bad producer wrote:
Won't these work? Unless there is a particular reason one must use 50K on this project as opposed to either 50K or 100K as Ken suggests on his site?

Mouser - 652-PTL45-15O0-104B1 = Orange

negativspace
Indeed, I have no reason to believe Ken is wrong. I just don't like to make declarations I haven't personally verified. Hence my "test."

Mouser order came today, I'll get this sorted as soon as I can.
flyingMono
negativspace wrote:
Indeed, I have no reason to believe Ken is wrong. I just don't like to make declarations I haven't personally verified. Hence my "test."

Mouser order came today, I'll get this sorted as soon as I can.


Cool, looking forward to it. 8_)
corpusjonsey
negativspace wrote:
^ Correct! The 10uF are for power supply decoupling and the 4.7uF are AC-coupling caps, one for the Lower and one for the Upper bands.


So I ended up getting non-polarized 4u7 mks caps. Is there any reason that I can't use them or do they need to be polarized?
lamouette/rck
if there is one left, i'm in !
negativspace
corpusjonsey wrote:

So I ended up getting non-polarized 4u7 mks caps. Is there any reason that I can't use them or do they need to be polarized?


No reason at all. As long as they fit the board you're fine. Bit of an upgrade over electros, too.
roqeja
ARRG wish i hadn't missed the boat on the sets
fuzzbass
fuzzbass wrote:
I did find a supplier for high value styrene caps in US, surplussales.com. I have never purchased from them before and make no recommendation, but they claim to have .022uf and .047uf values. I ordered just enough for this project so we'll see.

I won't be actually building this for months due to non-availability of the sliders. I think Bournes is a mom and pop shop. Gonna get worse when the TTSH round II hits the street.


Surplus Sales came through for the .022 and .047 styros! US Wigglers go get em!
negativspace
^ Sweet action on the caps! w00t

I'm planning to get the 100k slider board built up today to verify that those work, and presuming they do the slider shortage will be mitigated significantly.

Having spoken to Bourns, they won't sell directly and simply referred me to Mouser or one or their other distributors. In contacting Mouser I found they'd already reordered, so I dropped it at that point. Lead time, unfortunately, is ~14 weeks so it will be some time before there are more of the green 50ks.

FYI if you pick up one of the board sets from Thonk, Steve bought out Mouser's stock (from right under my nose!) so you can get your sliders from him. thumbs up
sammy123
Nice. Just placed an order for the caps!
bkbirge
Anyone have a pic of the completed daughter board they want to share? My brain is refusing to see all 25 spots for the 47k smt resistors.

And in case this helps anyone, here's where I'm at while I wait for parts to arrive...


Reality Checkpoint
Did I miss the post re the daughterboard BOM?
woodster
I don't have the boards yet, but aren't the SMT pads mostly on the solder side ?
bkbirge
woodster wrote:
I don't have the boards yet, but aren't the SMT pads mostly on the solder side ?


Yeah they all are, I didn't post a pic 'cause it's bare but it actually might help others so here it is. The BOM calls for 25 47k resistors but I only see 24 places, but then again I also need glasses to read while I'm typing this...
negativspace
All 5 of the resistors in the mixer section (the column of 5) are 47k, plus 2 in each of the 10 bands' inverters.
bkbirge
Reality Checkpoint wrote:
Did I miss the post re the daughterboard BOM?


I just used what was listed in the first post.
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:
All 5 of the resistors in the mixer section (the column of 5) are 47k, plus 2 in each of the 10 bands' inverters.


I see now, thanks.
Reality Checkpoint
bkbirge wrote:
Reality Checkpoint wrote:
Did I miss the post re the daughterboard BOM?


I just used what was listed in the first post.


d'oh!

Thank you!
flyingMono
CGS202 board arrived today and I finally took the time to calculate how much space is in my rack. I'm 2 hp shy of this module fitting in my current setup. I kinda thought it wasn't gonna fit just by using my eyeball-o-meters. You know what that means? ...new rack. oops! hihi
kisielk
Damn, I think I missed this one. Is there no chance to get one this run, or do I have to wait till the next one? May need to hack something together for my CGS board in the meantime...
fuzzbass
These sliders, nifty as they are, really don't hold up any level of manual abuse. If you snag the sleeve of your Christmas sweater on one, you can easily send the LED across the room, deep into the pile of your autumn toned, bong water infused shag carpet + break the tang.

I outfitted my TTSH with knobs by cannibalizing a cheapo Behringer graphic EQ, but that is not a sustainable approach, plus you know... one less Behringer graphic EQ in the world waah

Does anyone here know of a manufacturer that makes or could make knobs (with peep holes) for the Bournes sliders? I put the question to Bournes (who should know) and got a chorus of crickets chirping in response.

I'm willing to do a group buy.
bkbirge
fuzzbass wrote:
These sliders, nifty as they are, really don't hold up any level of manual abuse. If you snag the sleeve of your Christmas sweater on one, you can easily send the LED across the room, deep into the pile of your autumn toned, bong water infused shag carpet + break the tang.


Pics or it didn't happen. I'm looking for hidden cameras at my house right now.

Seriously though I've never come close to pulling out one of those LED's, the sliders seem pretty tough to me, maybe not Dirk Mantooth tough but certainly up to the punishment my corn fed guns can give.

Do you have any pics of what you have in mind? Drilled out rogan knerbs so you can see the led? Is that kind of what you have in mind? Seems to me that putting another knob on top of the shaft (heh) would increase the torque making the end result more fragile.
frozenkore
PCB/board/all that jazz, came in the other day, thanks!
fuzzbass
bkbirge wrote:
Do you have any pics of what you have in mind? Drilled out rogan knerbs so you can see the led? Is that kind of what you have in mind? Seems to me that putting another knob on top of the shaft (heh) would increase the torque making the end result more fragile.


Yes its important to have a knob on top of the shaft fer to keep your hand from slipping off...

Even if you don't think they are needed, they sure feel better under your fingers. These little hoobies or similar...
dude
loving the innnuendo
FetidEye
the bourns sliders used on version 1, which i assume are the same but longer, are very sturdy and stiff. i never even had the idea that they would break..
thresholdpeople
fuzzbass wrote:
bkbirge wrote:
Do you have any pics of what you have in mind? Drilled out rogan knerbs so you can see the led? Is that kind of what you have in mind? Seems to me that putting another knob on top of the shaft (heh) would increase the torque making the end result more fragile.


Yes its important to have a knob on top of the shaft fer to keep your hand from slipping off...

Even if you don't think they are needed, they sure feel better under your fingers. These little hoobies or similar...


fuzzbass where did you get those fader caps for the TTSH? Did you make them? They're really nice!
windspirit
I think he said that he cannibalized them from a behringer graphic EQ but I am sure that these/ something similar can be had elsewhere yes?

And they do look quite nice. thumbs up
thresholdpeople
Ahh, I had read his previous message and assumed that the faders themselves had come from the Behringer.

Way nice.
bkbirge
fuzzbass wrote:

Yes its important to have a knob on top of the shaft fer to keep your hand from slipping off...

Even if you don't think they are needed, they sure feel better under your fingers. These little hoobies or similar...


Ah ok, that makes sense now. I wonder if any of the standard mixer fader caps could be repurposed? Ya know, for my shaft.
cane creek
PCB/Panel arrived in sunny UK this morning thumbs up
xahdrez
flyingMono wrote:
CGS202 board arrived today and I finally took the time to calculate how much space is in my rack. I'm 2 hp shy of this module fitting in my current setup. I kinda thought it wasn't gonna fit just by using my eyeball-o-meters. You know what that means? ...new rack. oops! hihi


I guess I'll have to get a new case too, in solidarity....
sammy123
xahdrez wrote:
flyingMono wrote:
CGS202 board arrived today and I finally took the time to calculate how much space is in my rack. I'm 2 hp shy of this module fitting in my current setup. I kinda thought it wasn't gonna fit just by using my eyeball-o-meters. You know what that means? ...new rack. oops! hihi


I guess I'll have to get a new case too, in solidarity....


Make that three of us.
Low-Gain
Doepfer Beauty Case FTW!
unease
Got my set today as well! w00t
FetidEye
oh yeah!!
fuzzbass
bkbirge wrote:

Ah ok, that makes sense now. I wonder if any of the standard mixer fader caps could be repurposed? Ya know, for my shaft.


I have spent too much time trying to find these from a retail outlet. Some company made these for Behringer, and Hartke before that. If I could find that company, I would order a batch and sell them at cost to the wigglers. There would be a lot of takers over in the TTSH build thread no doubt.

I have a couple extra and a spare slider too. I could work with some knob fab company to develop the design. Has anyone here done this before?
thelizard
Is there an estimate as to when Synthcube and Thonk will get sets? I got a raise right after these sold out d'oh!
woodster
I chatted to Steve about these.
Thonk is definitely stocking them, along with the CGS PCB's to go with them.
fuzzbass
negativspace wrote:

I'm planning to get the 100k slider board built up today to verify that those work, and presuming they do the slider shortage will be mitigated significantly.


I know you are very busy but wonder if you had a chance to check this out yet... Thanks.
negativspace
It's built as is the accompanying CGS202 which I finished up last night. All that remains is to wire the thing. Planned for this evening. thumbs up
negativspace
thelizard wrote:
Is there an estimate as to when Synthcube and Thonk will get sets? I got a raise right after these sold out d'oh!


Thonk's have been paid for and shipped, not sure if Steve has them yet but if not then they're not far off. Synthcube has not paid for their allotment, the PCBs are still sitting here in my floor, but I imagine they'll take care of it relatively soon.
prscrptn
...anyone have a Mouser cart they wish to share? hmmm.....
Reality Checkpoint
Panel and PCB arrived here in the UK this morning. Many thanks, it is going to be a great addition to my system.
bkbirge
prscrptn wrote:
...anyone have a Mouser cart they wish to share? hmmm.....


This may be more confusing than helpful but...


Here's one, make sure you double check for missing parts, this is for 1 (one) eq and uses the 100k green sliders, not the 50k, and also uses ceramic caps which most of you probably don't want...
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?State=EDIT&Pr ojectGUID=a4db5b71-aa62-44e5-bd09-f9755ae9d14f

Daughterboard + misc stuff I missed in my main BOM... note there is probably still some stuff missing and also note this is for 4 (four) eq's! You'll need go through and pare down or add depending...
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?State=EDIT&Pr ojectGUID=dc19ab13-22be-445e-9af0-747934af08dc

You'll need to source the hardware separately, mouser doesn't have the proper M2.5 stuff, I went with erthenvar for that.
corpusjonsey
bkbirge wrote:


You'll need to source the hardware separately, mouser doesn't have the proper M2.5 stuff, I went with erthenvar for that.


These seem proper to me:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/24463/?qs=%2f ha2pyFaduis5%2fpEKzHEdgFt3cv0X3iMsLKkVpNzKsQ%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/24283/?qs=%2f ha2pyFadujlzHQ%252bWL8993fVThUsmaLqWSJUU%2f68lyk%3d
bkbirge
How not to install the smt components...

1. I carefully pre-tin the solder pads.
2. Painstakingly perch the components on top of the pads.


3. Get heatgun ready.


4. LOL...


5. Then go back and replace them and just solder with the solder gun. It ain't pretty but the connections are there although I did have to go back and get pin 14 after this pic was taken...
bennelong.bicyclist
bkbirge wrote:
How not to install the smt components...

1. I carefully pre-tin the solder pads.
2. Painstakingly perch the components on top of the pads.
3. Get heatgun ready.
4. LOL...
5. Then go back and replace them and just solder with the solder gun. It ain't pretty but the connections are there although I did have to go back and get pin 14 after this pic was taken...


OMG! Seriously, if you've never done SMT soldering before, I strongly recommend watching all of this video, several times if necessary, before you start. For the 0805 passives and the SOIC chips on the ResEQ daughterboard, you won't need to do any drag soldering or use a hot air gun at all - just follow Dave's recipe in the video below for using a fine chisel tip soldering iron, fine (0.5mm or less) no-clean solder, tweezers and a flux pen, and you'll be fine:

bkbirge
Yeah, the amount of solder control is key with that tack down method. Good video!
negativspace
Ugh, that looks miserable... I just tin 1 pad per component, solder that one pin to hold it in place, and then solder up the rest. Heat guns, flux pens... never owned either. seriously, i just don't get it

If you tin all 14 pads for the ICs at once you'll never ever ever get them to sit flat on the board and you'll make yourself crazy trying.
spacenoodle
If anyone can recommend a good stereo microscope for soldering this, that would be great. Cheap is best. I haven't done much SMT since working in an engineering lab about 10 years ago. My eyes aren't what they used to be either.
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:

If you tin all 14 pads for the ICs at once you'll never ever ever get them to sit flat on the board and you'll make yourself crazy trying.


Yep, that was definitely the mistake tinning all at once! 3 more boards to go though so hopefully it'll get better.
negativspace
Try just doing pin 1 first... set the chip down on the tinned pad, reheat it to set the chip nice and flat, and then hit the rest of the pins once it's tacked down.

I've had to rework a few SOIC chips after the fact and I can never get them to sit flat once I've desoldered them and left a set of tinned pads. That's probably where the heat gun would come in handy. Maybe I should look into one... hihi
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:
Try just doing pin 1 first... set the chip down on the tinned pad, reheat it to set the chip nice and flat, and then hit the rest of the pins once it's tacked down.


Using that method it seemed to go better. Still not very pretty but it's good enough for rock n roll...
flyingMono
What type of solder are you using? The only SMT I've done has been with 60/40 rosin core .032 inch solder. It didn't turn out horribly, but I've read silver solder works very well. Never used it though so I've no Idea really. seriously, i just don't get it
negativspace
Nice, now you're talking. I know it looks a little blobby but for hand-soldered SMT that's actually pretty nice. Everything's shiny, smooth, and round. Nicely done. w00t
daluxer
for those fellas who have already done the wiring between daughterboard and cgs pcb : some pictures or/and documentation would be really neat. I'm sure that's what a lot of people are curious about.

Thanks thumbs up
negativspace
I'm working on that right now... using this current build as an opportunity to get photos of the hackery that's necessary to wire up the individual outputs. Ran into a speedbump in the form of a dead camera battery, but it's on the charger now. Board's marked up and ready for photos. Watch this space.
negativspace
And here we go... I think I got these right but it's 5 in the morning. I'll update once I've soldered it up if not.

** Works perfectly. w00t

daluxer
Cheers negativespace - that was quick. It does help a little but it'd be nice to have a 'counter' picture where you can see what goes where on the daughterboard. Well no hurries, sleep tight.
negativspace
All of the "standard" connections are marked on the board - match letter to letter and you're all good. Ken even rearranged them so they went in the same order on his board as they do on mine, which is very convenient.
negativspace
Alright... finished the wiring on this thing. As expected the 100k pots are just fine. That's good, there are a lot of those available.

Also the wiring points in the photo above are correct.
bennelong.bicyclist
spacenoodle wrote:
If anyone can recommend a good stereo microscope for soldering this, that would be great. Cheap is best. I haven't done much SMT since working in an engineering lab about 10 years ago. My eyes aren't what they used to be either.


Just one of those desk-mounted magnifying lens should do - like this or this. That's what I use, much easier to use than a stereo microscope. The microscope is only really needed for inspection after drag or reflow soldering, and only then if you are doing 0.5mm pitch chips - and none of the components on this board are that fine - the SOIC chips have nice big legs that you can solder one-by-one.
bkbirge
I'm likin' the all green look (board not totally wired in yet, just powering daughterboard)...
flyingMono
bkbirge wrote:
I'm likin' the all green look (board not totally wired in yet, just powering daughterboard)...


DAMN! That is pretty! It's motherfucking bacon yo Rockin' Banana! nanners It's peanut butter jelly time!
corpusjonsey
Very nice! I'm really excited for mine to arrive.
negativspace
Lookin' good! It's motherfucking bacon yo
Monobass
thelizard wrote:
Is there an estimate as to when Synthcube and Thonk will get sets? I got a raise right after these sold out d'oh!


The Thonk set goes on sale Friday and it includes:

* Clarke68 MK II panel
* Negativspace MKII Panel PCB
* CGS Red EQ PCB (the latest version)

and also an option to buy the sliders (green LEDs)

I haven't worked out the prices yet, all the sliders that aren't purchased as part of the set will be offered for sale separately (in packs of ten)
daluxer
And my set will probably arrive later than it's on sale at thonk. Crap - could have went the easy way. very frustrating
Monobass
daluxer wrote:
And my set will probably arrive later than it's on sale at thonk. Crap - could have went the easy way. very frustrating


Well it's complicated. Without the support of people like yourself on here projects like this would never get off the ground and make it to the stores like Thonk and Synthcube... we're all kind of reliant on each other to make these awesome projects happen.
kisielk
Monobass: Would it be possible to buy it without the CGS board? I already have one (and partially built...) but I missed the sale of the panel / daughterboard here very frustrating
Monobass
kisielk wrote:
Monobass: Would it be possible to buy it without the CGS board? I already have one (and partially built...) but I missed the sale of the panel / daughterboard here very frustrating


Yeah I will be able to do that if anyone wants to, but please just buy the set and then contact me after and I can refund the price of the CGS PCB back. It gets too complex to offer a million options on the site.

The Clarke68 panel and Negativspace PCB should be considered indivisible though 8_)
bkbirge
In the home stretch now, finally got everything put together *except* I still need to run the wires from the main board to the sub-board. Hopefully I can grab some time in the next couple days to finish and test.


Raytracer
Have all the panels been shipped out yet? Anyone in Australia receive theirs yet?
bennelong.bicyclist
Raytracer wrote:
Have all the panels been shipped out yet? Anyone in Australia receive theirs yet?


Not yet. Sit tight, USPS to Oz is rarely swift.
Raytracer
Ok cool. Thanks bennelong. smile
bkbirge
negativspace wrote:
All 5 of the resistors in the mixer section (the column of 5) are 47k, plus 2 in each of the 10 bands' inverters.


Requoted for truth. Had to go back and double check and sure enough I'd put a 330 where a 47k needed to be.
spacenoodle
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
spacenoodle wrote:
If anyone can recommend a good stereo microscope for soldering this, that would be great. Cheap is best. I haven't done much SMT since working in an engineering lab about 10 years ago. My eyes aren't what they used to be either.


Just one of those desk-mounted magnifying lens should do - like this or this. That's what I use, much easier to use than a stereo microscope. The microscope is only really needed for inspection after drag or reflow soldering, and only then if you are doing 0.5mm pitch chips - and none of the components on this board are that fine - the SOIC chips have nice big legs that you can solder one-by-one.


Ah, thanks I'll grab one. I've had to use my digital camera on macro for small work. It probably has more to do with my eyes than the size of the parts.
bkbirge
spacenoodle wrote:
I've had to use my digital camera on macro for small work. It probably has more to do with my eyes than the size of the parts.


That's what I do. I've got one of those "helping hands" with a magnifying glass that I use also but the phone camera on zoom is better for detail work for me. My eyes are old also.

Here's one tested and working showing wire detail, I'll probably use ribbon for the others but this one should be easier to trace visually...

onlyHzwhenI...
bkbirge wrote:

Here's one tested and working showing wire detail, I'll probably use ribbon for the others but this one should be easier to trace visually...


Lookin' gooood!
Whether I use ribbon or "loosies" those pix will help trace my build out, so thanks.

-JT
rosch
I have a feeling I should always dig through threads like this first before firing off orders with Thonk, to avoid doing it 5 times a week in the end hehehe.
Cool stuff, won't miss this one!
thumbs up
clive.grace
I really really really really really want one of these.
Is there anywhere where I can get one to build?

EDIT: oh looked back a page... Seems like Thonk gets more of my dinner money this month... smile yay
clive.grace
For smt I have been using a helping hands magnifier for the basic placement, then when done I use a jewellers loop and look for fine bridges. Solder braid and flux pen are essential. SOIC is a doddle once you done a TSSOP.

Wrt cable connections I am not a fan of hard wiring, they break too easily with my (probably clumsy) build handling. I like to solder in SIL pads and use prototyping leads or relevant pitch push in headers whereever possible. Bit of heatshrink for added strain relief, then I feel confident that if I move my Eurorack to a gig it will be less likely for an internal wire to break in transit.

Hot glue melt over the pads if I am really paranoid.
FetidEye
anyone have a good source for the sliders?
mouser is still out of stock (all colors) till next year

or do the 100k versions work too?
sammy123
I believe Jason said he had not verified the compatibility of the 100k, but they may work.
regenbot
100k works This is fun! thumbs up

negativspace wrote:
Alright... finished the wiring on this thing. As expected the 100k pots are just fine. That's good, there are a lot of those available.

Also the wiring points in the photo above are correct.
FetidEye
i'm building 4, so i must be sure smile

do they work the same , or is there a different response?
(like in: empty spaces at certain positions)
regenbot
If there we're any difference in behaviour, i don't think it would be suggested to use "50k or 100k lin pot" as stated on CGS202 part list. I'll be using the stocked 100k sliders myself Mr. Green

FetidEye wrote:
i'm building 4, so i must be sure smile

do they work the same , or is there a different response?
(like in: empty spaces at certain positions)
negativspace
There will be no perceivable difference between the 50k and 100k sliders. The actual taper of the control will change slightly but you will never ever ever be able to tell he difference.
FetidEye
ok great!! sorry for the nagging questions oops
shapesofglory
PCB/Panel arrived in Germany this morning.w00t!!
Many Thanks!
fuzzbass
negativspace wrote:
There will be no perceivable difference between the 50k and 100k sliders. The actual taper of the control will change slightly but you will never ever ever be able to tell he difference.


Thanks for following up on this. My 100K sliders arrived today.
sammy123
I got all excited to finish mine tonight and I have some issues. Dammit!

I have really low output, my inputs are significantly different levels, and when I touch or even get my hand near the J & E connections on the main board or the ICs nearby and 22NF styrenes I get some serious interference. If I touch any of the ICs in that area or the styrenes things get even crazier. I have not gone down the road of checking resistor colors or other parts yet, but something funky is going on. I am using LF353 ICs as listed in the BOM.

Any ideas or values to check?
bkbirge
First thing I'd look for are solder bridges. Also did you connect the grounds of the panel jacks to the PCB?
sammy123
Well it must have been a solder bridge...and a tiny one at that. All joints re-soldered and it seems to be working. I am not sure I understand all the outputs yet so it will be interesting to play around with this. I still have 8 LED resistors to install.
FetidEye
Anyone know another place where to buy these ledsliders?
Mouser only has these in stock, green and orange. (100k)
652-PTL45-15G1-104B2
652-PTL45-15O1-104B2

i'd like red !
unease
FetidEye wrote:
Anyone know another place where to buy these ledsliders?
Mouser only has these in stock, green and orange. (100k)
652-PTL45-15G1-104B2
652-PTL45-15O1-104B2

i'd like red !


I'd like the orange ones but you need to order at lest 350 of them! The green ones can be bought as few as you like though.
clive.grace
Paid!
yay!
clive.grace
FetidEye wrote:
Anyone know another place where to buy these ledsliders?
Mouser only has these in stock, green and orange. (100k)
652-PTL45-15G1-104B2
652-PTL45-15O1-104B2

i'd like red !


I have the 8 x square red ones pulled from my turing machine's sliders (I have an unhealthy fascination for all white LEDs). You can have mine FOC, they just pull out at the end.... PM me an address and I'll mail them to you. That leaves you two to find...
Monobass
The Thonk set is now on sale

http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/

negativspace
THOSE ARE MY SLIDERS AREN'T THEY? angry

8_) hihi
Monobass
oops
sammy123
Here is a link to mine in it's current state.

http://instagram.com/p/vpn9ZzJNpE/

It seems to be working as expected. I am using mostly Kobiconns with some Erthenvars sprinkled here and there. You have to take off the sides with the ground lugs and ground the front. They seem to work fine. I'll try and load some proper photos later.
Monobass
If people buy sets from me without sliders I'll make them available here, it could be a lumpy/barren/frustrating shopping experience though!

http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/serge-slider/

If I have them they will be there, if I don't.. they won't be. It'll be quicker to just check this page for stock than say send me a PM every day for the past week *cough* wink
thelizard
Just ordered mine from Thonk! Very excited to build this.
owmtxy
Got my thonk order in too It's motherfucking bacon yo

Just to clarify; I'll need to source the BOMs for both the daughter board listed in this thread, and the CGS BOM.

Has anyone got a CONFIRMED mouser BOM here? Bit of a n00b so don't trust myself on the double check tbh.
finnurbjarna
I'd also be grateful for an up-to-date Mouser project link, if anyone has it.

Ordered a set from Thonk yesterday and am really looking forward to this...
ST.P
Yep - ordered yesterday too!

a complete BOM would help a lot - thanks love
corpusjonsey
owmtxy wrote:

Has anyone got a CONFIRMED mouser BOM here? Bit of a n00b so don't trust myself on the double check tbh.


finnurbjarna wrote:
I'd also be grateful for an up-to-date Mouser project link, if anyone has it.


ST.P wrote:

a complete BOM would help a lot - thanks love


Sourcing the parts is part of the fun and a great way to learn! Do it yourself and remember that we're here if you have questions.
ST.P
Quote:
Sourcing the parts is part of the fun and a great way to learn! Do it yourself and remember that we're here if you have questions.



thanks, it will probably be, although i´m afraid to get enough fun with the
SMD parts ... hihi
bennelong.bicyclist
Raytracer wrote:
Have all the panels been shipped out yet? Anyone in Australia receive theirs yet?


Yes, mine have now arrived intact and unbent in Sydney, on a day hot enough to reflow the SMD parts without an oven. Still waiting for 50k sliders to arrive from Jameco in the US, which were dispatched nearly 4 weeks go (if I had realised that 100k sliders from Mouser would have been just as good, I would have bought those instead).

BTW, M3 screws will fit through the holes in the front panel - just carefully introduce them to the holes and they will cut a thread through the aluminium plate, just using your fingers to twist them. No need for hard-to-find 2.5mm hardware.
wellurban
Well, I've gone ahead and ordered all the bits (I think). If the panel/daughterboard sets have arrived in Oz, they shouldn't be far away from NZ. I've also ordered the CGS202 PCB and component set via Elby, and the rest of the components from Mouser. I wondered briefly why I'd never tried ordering from Mouser before, rather than scrabbling around at the local Jaycar, and now I know: the cheapest shipping option I could find was $35! The joys of living at the end of the world, I guess.

One thing I want to check: the recommended Kobiconn jacks (16PJ138) weren't in stock, so I ordered the 16PJ138S. Does anyone know whether there's a significant difference? The info page for the latter was suspiciously sparse, but the only difference in the description was the addition of "W/HWD BAGGED". Does anyone know what this means and whether it would be a problem for the build? I figured that I could use jacks in other non-PCB projects if they didn't fit this one, and order the proper ones elsewhere later, so I went ahead and ordered anyway. But it would be nice for this newbie to know what it means!
regenbot
To europe mouser offers free shipping with orders over ~66€. Don't know if that applies to rest of the world, but i'd think it could.

regarding to your question about the jack differences i have no idea seriously, i just don't get it

wellurban wrote:
Well, I've gone ahead and ordered all the bits (I think). If the panel/daughterboard sets have arrived in Oz, they shouldn't be far away from NZ. I've also ordered the CGS202 PCB and component set via Elby, and the rest of the components from Mouser. I wondered briefly why I'd never tried ordering from Mouser before, rather than scrabbling around at the local Jaycar, and now I know: the cheapest shipping option I could find was $35! The joys of living at the end of the world, I guess.

One thing I want to check: the recommended Kobiconn jacks (16PJ138) weren't in stock, so I ordered the 16PJ138S. Does anyone know whether there's a significant difference? The info page for the latter was suspiciously sparse, but the only difference in the description was the addition of "W/HWD BAGGED". Does anyone know what this means and whether it would be a problem for the build? I figured that I could use jacks in other non-PCB projects if they didn't fit this one, and order the proper ones elsewhere later, so I went ahead and ordered anyway. But it would be nice for this newbie to know what it means!
finnurbjarna
There's a FAQ on the Ken Stone website which looks very helpful for gathering these parts: http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/parts_faq.html
negativspace
wellurban wrote:
One thing I want to check: the recommended Kobiconn jacks (16PJ138) weren't in stock, so I ordered the 16PJ138S.


This is the same exact part - the 'S' means the hardware is separate - i.e. the jack nut is not screwed on to the jack body at the factory.

I order the S version exclusively... with the number of jacks I use, the time saved by not unscrewing every nut adds up. eek!
jestern77
only one question left for me, where do i put the 2 SMT0.1uF Ceramic capacitor (0805)? is it on the side? next to the power supply header?
negativspace
Yes.
FetidEye
found a supplier for other ledslider colors:
http://www.mixoneic.com/product/category/630/keyword/PTL45.html

white, red, orange, green

anyone have ordered from them before?

mouser also has these on stock (704):
652-PTL45-10O0-503B2
these don't have a center detent..
bkbirge
FetidEye wrote:

mouser also has these on stock (704):
652-PTL45-10O0-503B2
these don't have a center detent..


I would strongly recommend a center detent with this. Not strictly necessary for the circuit to function but 30 seconds of playing with it you will want that feature.
regenbot
detent nice to have+ those levers are only 10mm abit shortish.

These are stocked: (edit: not detent though)

http://fi.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PTL45-15O0-104B1virtu alkey65210000virtualkey652-PTL45-15O0-104B1

bkbirge wrote:
FetidEye wrote:

mouser also has these on stock (704):
652-PTL45-10O0-503B2
these don't have a center detent..


I would strongly recommend a center detent with this. Not strictly necessary for the circuit to function but 30 seconds of playing with it you will want that feature.
designator
Got my panels and PCBs yesterday!

Thank you very much!
Raytracer
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:
Raytracer wrote:
Have all the panels been shipped out yet? Anyone in Australia receive theirs yet?


Yes, mine have now arrived intact and unbent in Sydney, on a day hot enough to reflow the SMD parts without an oven. Still waiting for 50k sliders to arrive from Jameco in the US, which were dispatched nearly 4 weeks go (if I had realised that 100k sliders from Mouser would have been just as good, I would have bought those instead).

BTW, M3 screws will fit through the holes in the front panel - just carefully introduce them to the holes and they will cut a thread through the aluminium plate, just using your fingers to twist them. No need for hard-to-find 2.5mm hardware.
My turned up today here in Melbourne. It's been lovely down here but I've been at the beach all weekend. smile

Panels look great. Looking forward to building it. Thanks for doing the panel run Clark68!
wellurban
negativspace wrote:
wellurban wrote:
One thing I want to check: the recommended Kobiconn jacks (16PJ138) weren't in stock, so I ordered the 16PJ138S.


This is the same exact part - the 'S' means the hardware is separate - i.e. the jack nut is not screwed on to the jack body at the factory.

I order the S version exclusively... with the number of jacks I use, the time saved by not unscrewing every nut adds up. eek!


Excellent! Great to have that confirmed.

Now to wait for everything to arrive...and find a chisel tip for my soldering iron before I attempt SMT for the first time woah
daluxer
If anyone needs M2,5 screws sizes 25mm and 16mm with NUTS. Hit me up, I had to buy a batch of 100 and will only need 10 of each.

I'd love to trade in for a 2x5pin eurorack socket.
jflower
Am I the only one that counts 11 330R output resistors? I almost always order extras, but for some reason I only ordered exactly 10 here.

cheers
jf
negativspace
You may not be the only one who counts eleven, but that just means others are also incorrect. There are only 10 330R resistors in the SMT section.
jflower
negativspace wrote:
All 5 of the resistors in the mixer section (the column of 5) are 47k, plus 2 in each of the 10 bands' inverters.


I just found this, and finally understand what it means. only need 10 of the 330R resistors after all.
negativspace
w00t
daluxer
so, for all noobies, as I am one. I made a colored picture, where smt resistors go.

it'd be nice if one of the 'pros' could confirm the correctness of the 'illustration'.

Thanks & happy soldering!

p.s. : judging from the tl074 data sheet, the orientation is important because of positive/negative voltage? if so, how do I figure out whats where on a smt ic? thanks in advance.

sammy123
Should that top right resistor be a 330R...so marked blue?
negativspace
Daluxer's photo is correct. The top right resistor is part of the mixer, and as it says on the board "all mixer resistors = 47k")
sammy123
Well looks like somebody (me) may have an error on their board. Ill fix that tonight hopefully.

Edit: i have a photo of it on my phone and I definitely have the wrong value for that one on the top right. Should be a super quick fix though.
kisielk
daluxer wrote:
so, for all noobies, as I am one. I made a colored picture, where smt resistors go.

it'd be nice if one of the 'pros' could confirm the correctness of the 'illustration'.

Thanks & happy soldering!

p.s. : judging from the tl074 data sheet, the orientation is imported because of positive/negative voltage? if so, how do I figure out whats where on a smt ic? thanks in advance.


Thanks for the pic.

Re: TL074: depending on the package there will either be a tiny notch, dot, or drawn line on the front. That's where pin 1 is.
daluxer
re:tl074

can't find neither of those on mine. here's a picture:

kisielk
Usually the side with the logo is the "front" with pin 1, but you should probably look up the datasheet for that particular opamp to be sure.
sammy123
If you get the sgs thompson soic version from Tayda there is no mark.

Jason what would happen if this was installed backwards? Magic Smoke? Mine appears to be working so I am guessing they are correct. I based it off the through hole orientation...perhaps that was risky.

kisielk wrote:
daluxer wrote:
so, for all noobies, as I am one. I made a colored picture, where smt resistors go.

it'd be nice if one of the 'pros' could confirm the correctness of the 'illustration'.

Thanks & happy soldering!

p.s. : judging from the tl074 data sheet, the orientation is imported because of positive/negative voltage? if so, how do I figure out whats where on a smt ic? thanks in advance.


Thanks for the pic.

Re: TL074: depending on the package there will either be a tiny notch, dot, or drawn line on the front. That's where pin 1 is.
corpusjonsey
Look at it from the side and you should see one edge that has a longer slope. That side has pin one.
sammy123
daluxer. See my post above. I am almost certain I have it right, but lets see if we can confirm that. Unfortunately the data sheet doesn't really give a clear answer. Here is a shot of mine:
http://instagram.com/p/vJQcvMpNoe/
corpusjonsey


From the data sheet. Check out the side view.
sammy123
Very interesting. Thanks for that.
daluxer
Thanks corpusjonsey.

That exactly fits with your picture sammy123 - and also with kisielk mailed me.

Cheers for the quick help.[/b]
ben_hex
Excited to habe set twelfth getting a res EQ on motion! Thanks to everyone who's brought the mkII to life.
onlyHzwhenI...
Received mine in yesterday's mail. w00t They look awesome. Thanks again to clarke68 and negativespace!

~JT
regenbot
Am i correct to assume i could use A100k for input pots?
corpusjonsey
So I have it all built and everything works except the 777Hz output. I heard it for a second but once I started using the slider it cut out. I have been really carefully looking over all solder joints and have switched chips with U4 to rule out a chip issue. Any ideas or anyone else have this prob?
thelizard
corpusjonsey wrote:
So I have it all built and everything works except the 777Hz output. I heard it for a second but once I started using the slider it cut out. I have been really carefully looking over all solder joints and have switched chips with U4 to rule out a chip issue. Any ideas or anyone else have this prob?


Dead jack, possibly?
bkbirge
I'd reflow the smt part for that and the slider and jack too probably.
clive.grace
The BOM says 10 x 330R but I see 11 330R (O) points on the Daughterboard?
daluxer
Read back a page or two!
clive.grace
d'oh!
regenbot
that o marking was bit confusing, confused me too hihi
daluxer
Quick Q : Is this all the wiring needed? Because the picture by bkbirge was showing some other weird wirings between the cgs and the smt section on the daughterboard?
thanks


negativspace wrote:
And here we go... I think I got these right but it's 5 in the morning. I'll update once I've soldered it up if not.

** Works perfectly. w00t

corpusjonsey
daluxer wrote:
Quick Q : Is this all the wiring needed? Because the picture by bkbirge was showing some other weird wirings between the cgs and the smt section on the daughterboard?
thanks


Yeah the points marked (sharpie) on the CGS board get wired to the SMT section of the daughterboard.
negativspace
Logic, fellas... 10 bands = 10 inverters = 10 output resistors = 10x 330R. There is no 11.
woodster
negativspace wrote:
There is no 11.


hmmm.....


negativspace
Yours may go to 11. Mine does not.
FetidEye
i found a company that sells rectangular LEDs with the right sizes and lead length (3x4x2mm, 28 /26 mm lead length), in 6 colors

http://bright-components.co.uk/epages/950004269.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/ Shops/950004269/Categories/LEDs/Rectangle_LEDs/3mmx4mmx2mm

the leds are switched pretty easy, just pop 'm out and replace

the lead length is a bit longer, so you have to snip them.
daluxer
Led swapping is indeed quite easy, finding the right resistor is harder. YMMV.
clive.grace
I was following the trace on the board after I d'oh! and I d'oh!-ed myself again for being in autopilot mode...

Putting the instructions on the board BTW is genius, decided to use SIL pin headers on the Fader board and the CGs board and connect together with proto patch leads. I don't like wiring board to board (even with strain relief) had too many miserable wire tangles and snaps.

Home stretch now, soon my sleepy unicorn... soon... Cat Girl Synth
clive.grace
The White square LEDs from bright components i can say are compatible with the existing resistor settings.

Still Waiting on my jacks but so far so good

Untitled by c-g., on Flickr

I am going to have to stop buying stuff and finish what I have already got...[/img]
regenbot
another succesful build here w00t
flyingMono
What gauge of wire is recommended for this project?
hmmm.....
kisielk
I have an extra CGS PCB if anyone is looking for one.
gotascii
Do the specific tl074 specs matter much (assuming soic-14)? The only specific part linked in this thread is to http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TL074BCDR/?qs=sG AEpiMZZMtCHixnSjNA6Dh9CQmOfcFcr0gNaxkh7h0%3d. Will that work? Anyone want to explain what some of the key options are when selecting one of these from mouser? Thanks!
Jerem
I look for a kit to buy. Anyone?
negativspace
gotascii wrote:
Do the specific tl074 specs matter much (assuming soic-14)? The only specific part linked in this thread is to http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TL074BCDR/?qs=sG AEpiMZZMtCHixnSjNA6Dh9CQmOfcFcr0gNaxkh7h0%3d. Will that work? Anyone want to explain what some of the key options are when selecting one of these from mouser? Thanks!


The specific variant is not particularly important here. (Or in most applications in synth circuits.) Most of the different letter codes have to do with packaging style or temperature range anyway. There are really only 3 grades you should pay attention to: TL074, TL074B, and TL074A. A is best, B next-best, etc. but any will work perfectly well. I wouldn't bother with A or B grade here but it certainly won't do any harm if that's what you have available.

flyingMono wrote:
What gauge of wire is recommended for this project?
hmmm.....


I use 24AWG from Small Bear.
jheronymo
man, just sold out on thonk, I'm a day too late...

anyone have a pcb and panel (or complete module) to sell?
Monobass
Now that I've sold out of this run I have two slider sets left over

http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/serge-slider/
negativspace
Check Elby... and I still have Synthcube's allotment here so at some point there will be 25 available there as well.
owmtxy
Successful build over here today... from someone who is criminally incompetent with a soldering iron too... hmmm.....



Ta, Thonk et al!
Monobass
nice smile
jflower
Completed build, and I totally dig it.

Monobass
love
sammy123
I've been making a little bit of noise with mine:

http://instagram.com/p/vzhO3AJNn0/

http://instagram.com/p/v3vJw9pNgs/
ablearcher
sammy123 wrote:
I've been making a little bit of noise with mine:

http://instagram.com/p/vzhO3AJNn0/

http://instagram.com/p/v3vJw9pNgs/


Those videos get me psyched, I gotta finish building this thing
Monobass
so gnarly help
jestern77
Almost ready to close everything. Still confused about the capacitors. The BOM says 0.1 uF capacitors that are SMT but on every picture i see some electrolitic (with polarization written on the boards). I have both types don't know what to use. If there is a polarize sign on the board what are the SMT for?
negativspace
The pads for the SMT caps are by the power header, in between the header itself and the electros.
daluxer
Successful over here too. With a fucking stupid mistake(probably the only one who made the mistake) : Dont solder your jacks to your daughterboard directly. Do it as shown in clarke's picture - mount them to the panel - and then solder.. DONT do it the otherway around. I had to un-solder all 18 jacks clean the board with a solder sucker, clean the jacks and then re-do which was a complete nightmare and took 3-4h.

Overall, this module is fucking nuts. Well worth the work. Thanks for the beautiful daughterboard & panel.


p.s.: the slider led on 29hz isn't working. messured it through with a dmm - resistor seems to be ok as well as connection between resistor & slider. The slider works seemlessly. I exchanged the LED with another blue one - nothing. I replaced it with a green one - it's fine, but looks stupid. All blue and one dark green led. Ideas?
negativspace
That's really bizarre... there's no reason it should work with the green LED but not a blue. Is the blue LED in question bad, or in backwards?
widgetoz
Please note that we now carry the CGS202 as a FULL KIT that includes front panel, both pcbs, ALL components and mounting hardware. All you need to supply is interconnecting wire, solder and your time.
Please go to www.elby-designs.com and look under the EURO-SERGE section
FetidEye
who is we?
widgetoz
FetidEye wrote:
who is we?

Oops - see updated posting
daluxer
LEDs now work too. This one specific slider needed a little longer legged LEDs.

In case anyone wants one and is afraid to build it or has no time - I can build it for you. thumbs up
extinguish
widgetoz wrote:
Please note that we now carry the CGS202 as a FULL KIT that includes front panel, both pcbs, ALL components and mounting hardware. All you need to supply is interconnecting wire, solder and your time.
Please go to www.elby-designs.com and look under the EURO-SERGE section



I see that it will be superseded by the 'ES202.'

Will the ES202 be any different?
jestern77
ok so the SMT caps go next to the V= and V- signs is that right?
widgetoz
extinguish wrote:
widgetoz wrote:
Please note that we now carry the CGS202 as a FULL KIT that includes front panel, both pcbs, ALL components and mounting hardware. All you need to supply is interconnecting wire, solder and your time.
Please go to www.elby-designs.com and look under the EURO-SERGE section



I see that it will be superseded by the 'ES202.'

Will the ES202 be any different?

Not really. It will be as per the original Serge design with only one set of outputs (upper, lower and all). It is, however, part of the Serge authorised family of 3U euro-based modules and will allow for the construction of a complete Serge system
foia
hi, just finished mine, is it normal that he first input is louder than the second or maybe i did something wrong? smile
sammy123
I had a similar issue, but I also had a hidden solder bridge that was causing all sorts of interference when i touched various components ot even put my finger near them.. I verified all values and then ref-lowed all joints and brushed the boards and the issue was fixed. I also had an incorrect smd resistor, but that didn't really have any effect.
shapesofglory
Successful build here. Guinness ftw!
Euroserged the MultiMixer (CGS80) too - maybe a nice combo.



negativspace
foia wrote:
hi, just finished mine, is it normal that he first input is louder than the second or maybe i did something wrong? smile


You've done something wrong, most likely. Check your two input resistors and make sure they're both the same value.
foia
thanks negativspace for pointing me to the right direction, it was a wrong resistor, thank you!!!!
drip.feed
Could I use two 100K audio pots instead of 50K for the inputs? Would I have to make changes elsewhere?
regenbot
I used 100kA and have no complaints thumbs up

drip.feed wrote:
Could I use 100K audio pots instead of 50K? Would I have to make changes elsewhere?
drip.feed
regenbot wrote:
I used 100kA and have no complaints thumbs up

drip.feed wrote:
Could I use 100K audio pots instead of 50K? Would I have to make changes elsewhere?

Thank you very much. thumbs up
wellurban
Excellent: my panel, daughterboard PCB and Mouser order have all turned up. thumbs up I'm still waiting for the CGS board and component kit from Elby, but I can start work on the daughterboard.

This is my first multi-PCB project, as well as my first SMT one, so I'm taking some time to make sure everything's right before starting soldering. I'm starting to collate the tips, images and answers to various questions that have popped up throughout this thread, so that I've got them all in one place. Would it be appropriate for me to post these together in one post (with attributions), to help others build it?

One thing I'm working out is the best order in which to building things. I'm thinking that it might go something like this, but if anyone has better advice, please let me know!

Daughterboard:
- solder SMT components (perhaps starting with ICs, since they might be fiddly to get at after the resistors are done)
- solder through-hole components (resistors, caps, diodes)
- mount panel components lightly onto the panel to get placement right (daluxer's tip)
- solder panel components onto daughterboard
- remove panel
- solder ground wires for jacks

CGS202 PCB:
- follow Ken Stone's instructions

Assembly:
- wire daughterboard and CGS202 together (would it be easier to solder one specific end first?)
- assemble panel, daughterboard and CGS202 together using standoffs
- attach nuts and knobs to panel components

How does that sound?
drip.feed
wellurban wrote:
How does that sound?

It sounds exactly like how I'm gonna do mine. thumbs up

Start with the components that lie closest to the board then work up. It just makes sense. Sometimes it doesn't work out that way but what the hell.

Re: the surface-mount chips: don't labour with the iron in case you cook the IC. if the solder isn't melting or flowing after a second or two then take the iron away for several seconds and rethink your technique before going back in. Some people coat the PCB pads with flux before soldering SMT to ensure rapid solder flow. And don't put a little dot of solder on each pad before laying the chip on top hoping to just melt each pin into place - your chip will never lie flat to begin with.
ac
This is more of a general DIY question but since it's related to my build of the Serge Res EQ I thought I'd ask it here.

I had to order a few odd valued resistors that I didn't have on hand from Mouser and I'm a little surprised with what I got, at least in appearance:



They're Vishay metal film 1% resistors:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/RN60D5103FB14/?qs=%2fha2pyF aduiTb4lj%252bN6POtHS6J6s0WvG89yr80FtuCA7COG7FKRWwg%3d%3d

Does anyone have any experience with them? They don't look like "normal" resistors to me, should it matter? Maybe they're better even, or maybe it doesn't matter?

I only ask because I'm not wanting to skimp with any other parts in this build, I went full on polystyrene with the caps and I'd hate to mess something up by going too cheap with the resistors.

Andy
drip.feed
ac wrote:
I only ask because I'm not wanting to skimp with any other parts in this build, I went full on polystyrene with the caps and I'd hate to mess something up by going too cheap with the resistors.

Nope, those little weiner resistors are reasonably common. The Mouser specs look absolutely fine. They are military grade though, so over specified for the EQ build! thumbs up
ac
Glad to hear it, thanks thumbs up
agitprop
Could someone please post a confirmed Mouser BOM?

I love sourcing, but I just don't have time right now to do it right now, and I would like to start soldering the minute that exams end.
Orbless
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=U%2facTlguYxZkdP7lZ tgGrw%3d%3d

are these ok to use in place of the 50k sliders? I remember somewhere in the thread it was stated 100k would be ok, just noticed that the power rating is different between these and the 50k stated to be the prefered sliders.
ablearcher
agitprop wrote:
Could someone please post a confirmed Mouser BOM?

I love sourcing, but I just don't have time right now to do it right now, and I would like to start soldering the minute that exams end.


I don't think you are going to get one for this project. If you are going styrene or similar for the caps you'll either have to place a smallbear order or deal with the minimum order for a couple values being 100. I did that since I've got plenty of other projects that need them but some people might object. I picked up resistors, smt, and all non critical caps at tayda.

Good luck! thumbs up
agitprop
Roger that. Wish we could get a BOM minus the "taste" parts.

ablearcher wrote:
agitprop wrote:
Could someone please post a confirmed Mouser BOM?

I love sourcing, but I just don't have time right now to do it right now, and I would like to start soldering the minute that exams end.


I don't think you are going to get one for this project. If you are going styrene or similar for the caps you'll either have to place a smallbear order or deal with the minimum order for a couple values being 100. I did that since I've got plenty of other projects that need them but some people might object. I picked up resistors, smt, and all non critical caps at tayda.

Good luck! thumbs up
windspirit
Hey Im almost building this but I am pretty sure that there are 11 330 smd resistors for the front panel board. Surprised that no one has mentioned this yet. Either that or I suck at counting - they are impossible to find once they fall on my floor.
regenbot
It was discussed earlier, couple of times infact. daluxer posted a picture that helped me out thumbs up

daluxer wrote:
so, for all noobies, as I am one. I made a colored picture, where smt resistors go.

it'd be nice if one of the 'pros' could confirm the correctness of the 'illustration'.

Thanks & happy soldering!

p.s. : judging from the tl074 data sheet, the orientation is important because of positive/negative voltage? if so, how do I figure out whats where on a smt ic? thanks in advance.

windspirit
Ok got the SMD parts figured out (thanks, I read that post/ page several times for some reason it took me a second to wrap my head around.) Anyways I have a working unit and THIS THING IS FREAKIN AMAZING! I had no idea it would invert each band, that is no cool. Getting some great phase cancellation effects with an attenuverter in the feedback path going to the second input. And oh yeah, rainbows:



That's actually 10 different colors of LED sliders, ultraviolet not included.
ablearcher
Holy crap I love the rainbow LEDs. applause
thelizard
I'm not getting any input or output, but I'm not getting magic smoke either. I'm going to assume that the SMT portion is my problem? Any advice on pins to probe, etc.?

Edit: Here's my dodgy first attempt at SMT:
[/img]
windspirit
You have to solder that connector named 'M' to the connector on the main board named 'M'. I did the exact same thing. For individual outs you have to solder those other connections to their respective filter band outputs, there's a diagram a few pages back. Maybe Monobass will make a build doc since he is selling them? The instructions are kind of sprinkled throughout the thread.
thelizard
windspirit wrote:
You have to solder that connector named 'M' to the connector on the main board named 'M'. I did the exact same thing. For individual outs you have to solder those other connections to their respective filter band outputs, there's a diagram a few pages back. Maybe Monobass will make a build doc since he is selling them? The instructions are kind of sprinkled throughout the thread.


Awesome! That was it. This thing is super intense. Thank you so much for your help.
negativspace
Glad to see more of these springing to life. SlayerBadger!
thelizard
negativspace wrote:
Glad to see more of these springing to life. SlayerBadger!


Me too lol

Thanks for making this project more accessible to Euro users. I'm very happy with the results.
negativspace
Like many other situations in the studio, the proper adapter can do wonders! hihi
bennelong.bicyclist
windspirit wrote:
And oh yeah, rainbows:



That's actually 10 different colors of LED sliders, ultraviolet not included.


As Zaphod would say: Hey-yeah! Now that is really bad for the eyes!

Three questions: a) are those Alpha or Bourns pots?; a) where did you get the LEDs; c) what value series resistors did you use with them?
clive.grace
Another one springs to life today...


Wiring the final bits by c-g., on Flickr

I had to wait for my next mouser order before the jacks could arrive, hooked them up, tied the ground line in and wired the tap-off points to the individual frequency breakouts (agai using proto pins) aaaaaand....


Done and dusted by c-g., on Flickr

Worked first time.
Score Guinness ftw!

One less in the backlog, trying to clear it before Christmas so I can build up a new one for the new year...
kisielk
Nice jumper wiring. planning to do the same for my build.
sammy123
So everyone, what should I expect with the individual outs? It seems that multiple sliders will affect a single output. Is this normal? Now that more people have built this I thought it was a good time to ask.
bkbirge
sammy123 wrote:
So everyone, what should I expect with the individual outs? It seems that multiple sliders will affect a single output. Is this normal? Now that more people have built this I thought it was a good time to ask.


Yes that's normal. Have a look at the schematic and you'll see why. Each stage feeds the next.
sammy123
Excellent. Thank you.
negativspace
Yep, totally normal. The Serge circuit is a giant ball of fed-back signals and everything effects everything else to some extent.
sammy123
It's so damn rad.
clive.grace
It's superb for tape capstan misalignment fx at the end of a signal chain, can't wait to hear what it does at the start....
finnurbjarna
I've built mine - and it works!!!

I love this thing - it makes my A-111 sound like a nuclear submarine!

Thanks for all the info, photos etc, and thanks for a great panel/pcb set!
finnurbjarna
clive.grace wrote:
Another one springs to life today...


Wiring the final bits by c-g., on Flickr

I had to wait for my next mouser order before the jacks could arrive, hooked them up, tied the ground line in and wired the tap-off points to the individual frequency breakouts (agai using proto pins) aaaaaand....


Done and dusted by c-g., on Flickr

Worked first time.
Score Guinness ftw!

One less in the backlog, trying to clear it before Christmas so I can build up a new one for the new year...


The jumper wiring looks amazing. How do you go about hooking up the points that are shared?
wellurban
Finally got it all together, plugged it in, and...pretty lights, but no audio. At least there was no magic smoke.

Took it out, anticipating a long and tedious troubleshooting session (the inter-PCB wiring was fiddly, with lots of possibilities for shorts or broken connections), and saw that I'd forgotten to plug the ICs on the main board into their sockets! d'oh!

So, I plug them in, carefully, one by one, then plug it back into the rack and power on. Lights on, and...there's the magic smoke FUUUCCKKKK!!!

In my haste, I put one of the ICs in the wrong way around: stupid rookie mistake. At least it's a cheap & common opamp I can get from the local Jaycar, but before I do so, is there anything else I should check or troubleshoot before powering up again? Nothing else is obviously broken.
jestern77
Hi there, first of all thanks for the amazing work. I got two working resEQs here:)
Only one thing, they behave in an opposite way: one has no sound when the sliders are down while another one produces no sound when the sliders are up.
I checked and could not find anything wrong in the boards. I suspect the first is the correct one 8_). Any quick idea why the second could be in reverse?
jules
Hello,

If anyone has spare daughter boards and panels, I'll happily take them off your hands (full price).

Thx.
far gon
I'll echo jules

Im interested in any spares available!
negativspace
wellurban wrote:
In my haste, I put one of the ICs in the wrong way around: stupid rookie mistake. At least it's a cheap & common opamp I can get from the local Jaycar, but before I do so, is there anything else I should check or troubleshoot before powering up again? Nothing else is obviously broken.


Everything's probably fine, but after you pop in the new chip use your multimeter to check for continuity between both power rails and ground, and between one another while you're at it. If you don't get any beeps you should be clear of power rail shorts which are typically the cause of the smoke leak.
wellurban
Thanks: I'd already checked for power shorts. Now that I've put the new IC in (thankfully, TL072s are easy to find) it's working a treat thumbs up

Brilliant module, made even better by the gorgeous design and playability of the sliders.
wellurban
I've only been playing with it for an hour or so, so these are probably old hat to most of you, but here's a couple of patch ideas I've been loving:

1) Patch one of the low-frequency individual outs (such as 61Hz) into one input, and a series of quick envelopes (or even a saw LFO) into the other. Crank up the 61Hz slider and input attenuator until it's just below self-oscillation, and the sharp envelopes will ping it almost like a Twin-T filter. Great boomy 808ish kicks, though with the ability to add click and punch by turning up some of the higher bands. All of the sliders interact to affect the tone, and it's easy to slip into howling feedback, but you can also get a wonderful variety of kick and percussion sounds.

2) Patch one comb out into on input, and the other comb out via a fully-wet delay into the other. This adds variation and rhythmic patterns to your feedback drones. I used Wow and Flutter, and its warp function and own self-oscillation added lovely grit and wobble.

So, it looks like an amazing creative tool, as well as a useful sound shaper for everyday patches.
flyingMono
I finally ordered the polystyrene caps but I just realized I ordered them as 30 V from Rush Online in the UK. I went back and read the thread and Ken Stones FAQ and at least 50 V is suggested. Did I just create a problem?
muckmires
So, I've just begun this project, and have found the whole thread amazing, confusing and very helpful. I think I've got all my parts lined up, the ambition to do the SMT soldering...but I've got a simple question...where do I get the "ferrite bead" ? I know why they're there, but....I've not had much luck in finding them, and are they necessary? 10 ohm resisitor?
flyingMono
muckmires wrote:
So, I've just begun this project, and have found the whole thread amazing, confusing and very helpful. I think I've got all my parts lined up, the ambition to do the SMT soldering...but I've got a simple question...where do I get the "ferrite bead" ? I know why they're there, but....I've not had much luck in finding them, and are they necessary? 10 ohm resisitor?


You can find info here. thumbs up

http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/parts_faq.html
muckmires
Thanks! I take it that if I DON'T find any, it won't be the end of the build.
Plus, I've started the SMT soldering and it's not as bad as I thought. A
fine tip, flux pen, hot iron & steady hand make the job a cinch. ( I'm not DONE though...) As was posted earlier, don't get in a hurry!
FetidEye
the smd was way more easy than i thought.
just make sure your tip is clean and use 0.5 or 0.7 mm solder.
gotascii
Another one done! SMT was the easy part compared to wiring the panel. I also had trouble sourcing some of the poly caps and ended up using MLCC's for about 1/2 of the poly cap spec. It sounds pretty sweet to me!

medbot
I missed the boat on this one :[ any plans for another run in the near future?
widgetoz
medbot wrote:
I missed the boat on this one :[ any plans for another run in the near future?

You can get them from RhythmActive in Australia RhythmActive
negativspace
thumbs up
NS4W
Are there full kits of this stocked anywhere? I built one from the first run of this module, regrettably sold it just after I discovered the feedback tricks...
FetidEye
elby had them, not sure if there are any left
unease
Yes, Elby has kits but it is only the components for the main PCB. You need to get the components for the panel and doughterboard elsewhere, like the sliders.
On the other hand, Elby sells their own version of the ResEQ as well with their own panel design but that is the original version without separate outs.
ablearcher
Finished this thing the other week. It is indeed a beast to wire, but so worth it. I was skeptical about the individual outs but they make a huge difference. If you patch a lowish frequency, say the 115, back into the input and then run a drum machine into the other input, this thing will generate bass lines for you, rules! Also rhythmic screeching if you do the same to a higher frequency. screaming goo yo
FetidEye
unease wrote:
Yes, Elby has kits but it is only the components for the main PCB. You need to get the components for the panel and doughterboard elsewhere, like the sliders.
On the other hand, Elby sells their own version of the ResEQ as well with their own panel design but that is the original version without separate outs.


a friend of mine bought a full kit from Elby, including daughterboard compontens and sliders etc.
FetidEye
and mine works too!

Serge mk2 build


the old and the new generation

SlayerBadger! w00t
jestern77
applause
widgetoz
unease wrote:
Yes, Elby has kits but it is only the components for the main PCB. You need to get the components for the panel and doughterboard elsewhere, like the sliders.
On the other hand, Elby sells their own version of the ResEQ as well with their own panel design but that is the original version without separate outs.
Not true, we have the FULL kit right down to the wire
FetidEye
i made a comparison with the old version (i build that one with film caps)
and the new version (i used the styroflex caps).

Normal use without feedback : more or less the same
Feedback patched : different responses
atari5200
OK, I'm working with the version 1.0 of the CGS board and I'm looking for a little help with the wiring since the photos in this thread don't really apply to my PCB
I realize it will be a little more complicated than the revised board buuuut I already had it stuffed from a time between runs of the Clarke panel when I was contemplating making a pot version so that's what I'm going with. seriously, i just don't get it

So, most of it seems pretty straightforward- each letter on the CGS PCB goes to the corresponding letter on the daughterboard. So far so good- but I'm not clear on where the pads in the SMD section of the daughterboard connect to on the CGS PCB.

Also, I forgot to get the 2 SMD caps for the daughterboard. I'm able to just use regular ceramic caps if I can make them fit, right?
negativspace
Yes, as long as you can physically fit the caps in the electrons won't know the difference.

The wiring for the individual outs won't actually be all that different. The schematic on the CGS site is the same for both versions of the board so just doublecheck that the pads on the old board correspond to the same opamp pins as the ones I've marked in the photo of the new board.
atari5200
negativspace wrote:
Yes, as long as you can physically fit the caps in the electrons won't know the difference.

The wiring for the individual outs won't actually be all that different. The schematic on the CGS site is the same for both versions of the board so just doublecheck that the pads on the old board correspond to the same opamp pins as the ones I've marked in the photo of the new board.


OK, that helps, and I found your photo, but I'm still a bit confused- if I follow the op amp pin (pin 3, I think?) for, say, 29hz, it goes to an unmarked pad between the op pin and a cap. Does that seem correct?
negativspace
All 10 outputs will be from either Pin 1 or Pin 7 of the opamps. (Square pad = pin 1.) Those are the two possible output pins from standard dual opamps.

4 of the channels (29Hz + 2.8k - 11k) require the wire to be soldered to the opamp pin itself while the others utilize extra, unused pads for the capacitors.
atari5200
negativspace wrote:
All 10 outputs will be from either Pin 1 or Pin 7 of the opamps. (Square pad = pin 1.) Those are the two possible output pins from standard dual opamps.

4 of the channels (29Hz + 2.8k - 11k) require the wire to be soldered to the opamp pin itself while the others utilize extra, unused pads for the capacitors.


OK, that explains more- I think with the layout of the 1.0 board I have available extra pads open for U1- U4, but the rest have to be soldered directly to the pins. From your picture I can't figure out how the output from opamp 5 gets to where you have it indicated, but if I understand you correctly it doesn't matter- as long as I'm coming off either pin 1 or 7 I could just go ahead an solder the wires directly to the pins and not worry about open pads at all, correct?
negativspace
Absolutely - I've just chosen to use the spare pads where possible because it's a bit easier. Electrically speaking there's no difference between running straight from the pin or from those other pads.
atari5200
Well, she lives and breathes- mostly! Guinness ftw!
However I am having one issue which I can't seem to easily diagnose- the 29hz individual out doesn't seem to work properly. it just outputs an unprocessed signal, moving the slider doesn't alter the sound at all. However, when using the "All Outs" jacks it works as expected. I reflowed all my joints on the SMD section around the 29hz area but that didn't fix the issue.
Any thoughts on why it could be acting that way?
negativspace
It seems most likely that the wiring is the issue but I assume you've double-extra-checked that. If it's working from the main output then it's really just a matter of finding the signal to tap with the wire.
atari5200
negativspace wrote:
It seems most likely that the wiring is the issue but I assume you've double-extra-checked that. If it's working from the main output then it's really just a matter of finding the signal to tap with the wire.


I'm tempted to agree. I had been working on it for several hours by the time I wrapped things up last night so I'm going to double check it with fresh eyes before I go to work today.
I'm just a little unclear how that particular individual out is getting any signal at all if I've got a wiring issue. Since that band is clearly working properly in "stock" usage (it performs as expected from the Lower Comb Out and All Outs jacks) I would think I just shouldn't be getting any signal at all out of the individual jack, it's strange that it would be an unprocessed signal. Of course my electronics knowledge is pretty limited as of now, I'm still riding the high from not burning myself with a soldering iron every time I use it! w00t

Could it have something to do with the SMD opamps? I was concerned about heat stress when I was soldering those since I know that can damage them. I tried to be careful but things happen.... if my wiring turns out to be fine could the chip feeding the 29hz out be an issue? Although if the chip were at issue I would expect to see similar behavior on some of the other bands as well, particularly the 61hz out and that works fine.
unease
widgetoz wrote:
unease wrote:
Yes, Elby has kits but it is only the components for the main PCB. You need to get the components for the panel and doughterboard elsewhere, like the sliders.
On the other hand, Elby sells their own version of the ResEQ as well with their own panel design but that is the original version without separate outs.
Not true, we have the FULL kit right down to the wire


Oh, I'm sorry that was news to me! I was sure I saw some picture of an Elby version of the ResEq with a special Panther series panel in some thread here at muffs. Was I hallucinating? seriously, i just don't get it
atari5200
So I couldn't find any obvious faults in my wiring but there must have been something going on. As soon as I moved the output wire from pin 1 to pin 7 it worked. maybe my solder joint was bad, I dunno seriously, i just don't get it But either way it seems to have fixed the issue.
The only other potential weirdness that I'm encountering is that the All Outs Jacks are more quiet than the individual outs or either of the Upper or Lower Comb outs. I feel like I read earlier in this thread that that was expected but I could be imagining that....
EDIT- Another issue: I'm getting rhythmic "thumps" coming through even with nothing plugged into the input- they go away when all sliders are down, and get faster when I raise each slider. What the heck could be causing this?
talfred
Hey, I'm looking for a mouser bom for the MA daughterboard, including hardware. Anybody?
atari5200
Yup, definitely getting a rhythmic thumping coming from the unit with no input plugged in. It goes away when all sliders are fully down, and gets faster as I raise each slider. Any idea what could be causing this?
atari5200
After some further testing it seems there is some self-oscillation happening on some of the ICs on the main board.... but only on the 7th pin of the IC, not on the 1st pin. I used sockets in my build so I was able to try swapping chips but that didn't make any difference. I can't see any solder bridges and I reflowed my connections to the IC sockets but this didn't make any difference.

Any words of wisdom would be appreciated.... very frustrating

EDIT- I basically reflowed EVERYTHING and redid my wiring harness and that fixed the issue. Still not sure exactly what was causing the problem but it is gone now... The only obviously dubious looking joint I saw during teh course of my repair was on one of the decoupling caps coming off of the negative rail of the power header, so I have a feeling that had something to do with it, but either way it's now fixed
migrations
Hey so I just finished building this - sounds great! I seem to be having a problem however with the 5.2 k band of the eq. They all seem to work perfectly except for this one band which doesnt seem to do anything. I've tested it out of every available output and no dice. The light on the fader does light up so I assume then that its not the fader... Has this happened to anyone or does anyone have any idea what might cause this issue? thanks!!
cane creek
Hey Guys & Gals rather than me reading through 22 pages is there a mouser BOM for this project ? , I've already got Panel,PCBs,Sliders. thumbs up
corpusjonsey
migrations wrote:
Hey so I just finished building this - sounds great! I seem to be having a problem however with the 5.2 k band of the eq. They all seem to work perfectly except for this one band which doesnt seem to do anything. I've tested it out of every available output and no dice. The light on the fader does light up so I assume then that its not the fader... Has this happened to anyone or does anyone have any idea what might cause this issue? thanks!!


The same happened to me on the 777hz band. I ended up puncturing one of the styrene caps when wiring. Check your caps for that band.
corpusjonsey
cane creek wrote:
Hey Guys & Gals rather than me reading through 22 pages is there a mouser BOM for this project ? , I've already got Panel,PCBs,Sliders. thumbs up


It's in the first post of the thread.
cane creek
corpusjonsey wrote:
cane creek wrote:
Hey Guys & Gals rather than me reading through 22 pages is there a mouser BOM for this project ? , I've already got Panel,PCBs,Sliders. thumbs up


It's in the first post of the thread.


Thank you,
I noticed the BOM on the front page however it appears you require a lot more components than that, so i assume i also go by the BOM on Kens page too.
negativspace
Yep, the CGS202 itself is a sovereign project and you'll need to follow Ken's instructions and BOM to get that part built.
migrations
corpusjonsey wrote:
migrations wrote:
Hey so I just finished building this - sounds great! I seem to be having a problem however with the 5.2 k band of the eq. They all seem to work perfectly except for this one band which doesnt seem to do anything. I've tested it out of every available output and no dice. The light on the fader does light up so I assume then that its not the fader... Has this happened to anyone or does anyone have any idea what might cause this issue? thanks!!


The same happened to me on the 777hz band. I ended up puncturing one of the styrene caps when wiring. Check your caps for that band.


Thanks! I plan to check it out later tonight but I'm not sure how you tell which cap goes for which band? I figured it had something to do with the tapped outs on the daughterboard coming from the smd chips but if its on the actual CGS board I dont know which components go where.. hmmmm
corpusjonsey
migrations wrote:
corpusjonsey wrote:
migrations wrote:
Hey so I just finished building this - sounds great! I seem to be having a problem however with the 5.2 k band of the eq. They all seem to work perfectly except for this one band which doesnt seem to do anything. I've tested it out of every available output and no dice. The light on the fader does light up so I assume then that its not the fader... Has this happened to anyone or does anyone have any idea what might cause this issue? thanks!!


The same happened to me on the 777hz band. I ended up puncturing one of the styrene caps when wiring. Check your caps for that band.


Thanks! I plan to check it out later tonight but I'm not sure how you tell which cap goes for which band? I figured it had something to do with the tapped outs on the daughterboard coming from the smd chips but if its on the actual CGS board I dont know which components go where.. hmmmm


The schem for the res EQ is on the CGS site HERE. I'm not sure that this IS your problem but I had the same symptoms. Worth a shot in case re-soldering the SMD stuff doesn't fix it.
cane creek
bennelong.bicyclist wrote:

I ended up buying a complete set of polystyrene caps for the CG202 from the delightfully vintage-looking Rush-On-Line.


Ive been trying to buy caps from Rush-on-line for the last 2 days but their paypal link just doesnt work, i get the connecting to paypal please wait box but nothing happens after that, I've tried it on my MAC/iPad & PC i emailed them yesterday but no reply hmmm.....
woodster
I ordered from Rush-on-line a few weeks ago for the majority of caps for 2 kits.
The site is indeed proper old school, but my order went through fine.
I didn't get much in the way of any order confirmation, or delivery details etc, but it all arrived in good time.
Hopefully it's just a temporary glitch, as I need more obscure, and they do lots of obscure...
migrations
corpusjonsey wrote:
migrations wrote:
corpusjonsey wrote:
migrations wrote:
Hey so I just finished building this - sounds great! I seem to be having a problem however with the 5.2 k band of the eq. They all seem to work perfectly except for this one band which doesnt seem to do anything. I've tested it out of every available output and no dice. The light on the fader does light up so I assume then that its not the fader... Has this happened to anyone or does anyone have any idea what might cause this issue? thanks!!


The same happened to me on the 777hz band. I ended up puncturing one of the styrene caps when wiring. Check your caps for that band.


Thanks! I plan to check it out later tonight but I'm not sure how you tell which cap goes for which band? I figured it had something to do with the tapped outs on the daughterboard coming from the smd chips but if its on the actual CGS board I dont know which components go where.. hmmmm


The schem for the res EQ is on the CGS site HERE. I'm not sure that this IS your problem but I had the same symptoms. Worth a shot in case re-soldering the SMD stuff doesn't fix it.


So i've gone through and through the board reflowing everything thats connected to this band (even on the daughterboard) replaced the cap and even tried switching around the opamps... Cant seem to figure this out. it does output a sound now its just considerably lower then all the other bands... and it doesnt seem to filter the sound so much as bring the volume up when I turn up the fader (although i could be wrong about this, its hard to tell from the volume being so low) Short of having a bad component is there any possible fix i could have missed?
bennelong.bicyclist
Finally finished! The polystyrene caps from Rush Online turned out to be huge, high-voltage ones, but I managed to squeeze them all in. Used 33k resistors for the LEDs in the Alpha sliders, resulting in a nicely subdued firefly-like effect, which is what I wanted. Everything worked perfectly, first go, and it looks and sounds gorgeous. Looking forward to playing with it.



sammy123
Those huge caps look awesome!
bennelong.bicyclist
sammy123 wrote:
Those huge caps look awesome!


Here's a better shot, showing the rectangular blue 680 pF polystyrene caps as well (yup, those are polystyrene, not normal film caps). Note the black discolouration at one end of the white polystyrene caps. That appeared, not after soldering them, but when I sprayed 99% isopropanol on the board to clean some no-clean flux off it. It seems the white paint is actually moisture sensitive, intended to show if the caps have ever been wet. The black is gradually fading. Anyway, they were exposed to only a tiny amount of moisture (the residual water in the isopropranol spray), and they still seem to work fine.

The wiring was done with easy of construction, not neatness, in mind. I thought it might need a Faraday cage shield around it (earthed aluminium foil sandwiched between clear overhead projector acetate sheets works well), because polystyrene caps are notorious for acting as antennae, but in fact it is really quiet, no noise or cross-talk from nearby (digital) modules at all. Plenty of cross-talk between bands inside the module, but that's by design.

cane creek
cane creek
The CGS202 Board requires 2x 22NF caps, do you think it will be ok to use 2x 22.1NF K71-7's for this ? I'm assuming .1 won't make much difference ?
negativspace
No, you'll never notice that... it's less than half a percent off.
pulse_divider
Just to confirm before I solder...
For the jack orientation, the tip goes toward the top of the board?
It appears this way in the picture but the board doesn't say anything.
kires
clarke68 wrote:






That's how I did it , just like on the picture
xahdrez
Serge Resonant EQ Feedback: https://instagram.com/p/0OVzoyycFM thumbs up


Yes, tip is to the top of the board!
Kytopia
Ugh I'm always late with these things... would actually kill for this one (owners beware) so if by miracle a kit becomes available, please please pleeease let me know!
cane creek
Here's a list of polystyrene caps i ordered from Rush i thought it may help as theres so many to pick from on the website.
They all turned up perfectly sized for the board, note theres no 22NF they were out of stock and the quantities are wrong as i always order extra Mr. Green

bkbirge
What are those funny squiggly symbols where dollars should go? They look strangely expensive and suspiciously stable.
negativspace
It's a weird symbol for dollars that means "multiply by 1.6." hihi
synthcube
hey, for those still interested in the latest version, we will be stocking the pcb/pcb panel/panel combination shortly smile

http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=5 89
negativspace
And you'd better buy them, we're not running another batch until he's out. cool
sixty_n
I hope that means thonk are getting another batch in too
negativspace
Negative... Synthcube's batch was the last thing remaining from the run. (Aside from my personal stash... and I'm happy to build one up for anyone who asks!)
fragletrollet
Just ordered the kit from Synthcube hyper And also the parts kit from Elby`s, altough I`m not sure the transaction worked hmmm.....

Putting together the other parts now smile
earlabs
hi

I have built the SRE mkii. I have a huge issue with all of the low comb outs, the high comb outs and the all out. They basically don't function at all.

Can anyone say anything about where the origin may be? Last Tuesday we spent almost the whole evening checking the board and soldering points but couldn't solve this.

I have been soldering with a few fellow solderers. The first one who completed it was successful. This one's have troubles. We checked all wiring and compared the good board with the problematic one. Couldn't find anything on the main board and on the wiring. Could the problem be on the subboard with all the caps?
FetidEye
as to some more info on mr. Earlab's build:
the individual outputs work fine (except for 2 of them , 1 is silent, 1 is distorted)
the inputs also works.

earth is connected correctly, and we tested the connections from the main pcb to the daughterboard.
negativspace
If the main/upper/lower outputs are having issues then I can guarantee 100% that your (primary) issue is with the CGS board or the wiring. The daughterboard does nothing to those 3 signals other than route them to the panel jacks.

As for the 2 distorted individual outs... I'd sort the main issue first and if this one remains we'll tackle it next.

EDIT: being utterly pedantic... I shouldn't rule out a production error or physical damage to the daughterboard. I suppose that could also cause issues with the main outputs. So let's call it 99.99975% guaranteed that the issue is on the CGS board. hihi
ben_hex
Anyone else have issues with output volume? The upper combs out is loads lower in volume than the lower comb output.
negativspace
Have not gotten around to building myself one yet, so none here to play with at the moment, but I don't recall ever having one with that issue. I have a stuffed board that just needs wired up, I'll give it a go when I get a minute.
iL
hi. i am a little late with building. i have a question, maybe i did not just found it in this threat. are there any diagramm/info which opamp (pin outs) is used for the individual outs to the frontpanel pcb? i just see on some pictures there are wires but i found no description how to do this.

i know the cgs schematics but the pcb did not have printed description for those. so i thought there must be some diagramm or did you all just found out yourself?

thanks.
negativspace
Check a few pages back... I posted a photo with the solder points marked.
cane creek
Finally got CGS board finished today with the arrival of a couple of K712-7's.
Can't thank forum member "gbiz" enough for helping me out with those scarce size resistors we're not worthy

Now must build the control panel however I'm going to take a wee little break first by building another Orgone accumulator Mr. Green



kires
Mine's finished
kires
I went with red / green leds for lower / upper combs.
negativspace
I'm a little bit in love with those lime green styrene caps! screaming goo yo
ben_hex
Anyone having issues with the upper comb outputs been lower in volume than the lower comb outputs?

They are fine in the main output and individual comb outputs are fine as well.
earlabs
I have built mine but strangely my general outs are not working. NOT AT ALL. The inputs are okay and the individual outs are as well (except for channel 1 and 4, but that's a different issue).

I am completely at loss about where to look. Wiring seems ok, jacks are soldered and grounded ok. very frustrating
bkbirge
ben_hex wrote:
Anyone having issues with the upper comb outputs been lower in volume than the lower comb outputs?

They are fine in the main output and individual comb outputs are fine as well.


Hmm haven't noticed on mine but I usually am running screaming feedback. I'll check after work.
widgetoz
earlabs wrote:
I have built mine but strangely my general outs are not working. NOT AT ALL. The inputs are okay and the individual outs are as well (except for channel 1 and 4, but that's a different issue).

I am completely at loss about where to look. Wiring seems ok, jacks are soldered and grounded ok. :bang:

Check the jack soldering. The pcb footprints on the carrier board are not very clever and basically too big for the actual component pins. Consequently it is very easy to pour too much solder in to the hole trying to get a good solder joint, and end up with solder flowing in to the body of he jack. If this happens there is a good chance that he signal contact has a short to the ground contact - giving no output. If you have a scope, follow the signal from the output points on the actual circuit (opamp etc) and you will probably find it disappears as youget to the jackcontact
earlabs
widgetoz wrote:

Check the jack soldering. The pcb footprints on the carrier board are not very clever and basically too big for the actual component pins. Consequently it is very easy to pour too much solder in to the hole trying to get a good solder joint, and end up with solder flowing in to the body of he jack. If this happens there is a good chance that he signal contact has a short to the ground contact - giving no output. If you have a scope, follow the signal from the output points on the actual circuit (opamp etc) and you will probably find it disappears as youget to the jackcontact


And one failure might fuck it up for all of them? I can't check this visually and am not competent/confident enough to do this with a meter. Would you suggest desolder/resolder?
widgetoz
earlabs wrote:
widgetoz wrote:

Check the jack soldering. The pcb footprints on the carrier board are not very clever and basically too big for the actual component pins. Consequently it is very easy to pour too much solder in to the hole trying to get a good solder joint, and end up with solder flowing in to the body of he jack. If this happens there is a good chance that he signal contact has a short to the ground contact - giving no output. If you have a scope, follow the signal from the output points on the actual circuit (opamp etc) and you will probably find it disappears as youget to the jackcontact


And one failure might fuck it up for all of them? I can't check this visually and am not competent/confident enough to do this with a meter. Would you suggest desolder/resolder?

if you have a meter then do the following simple test (with NO power on the module):-
plug a jack lead in to the suspect output. With the meter in 'low resistance' mode (usually 200R) measure across the tip and body of the other end of the lead. If you get 0 then you have a short. You can check you are doing things right by repeating this process on a 'good' output where you should see a number much greater than 0 (you may need to increase the range setting)
noisefor
This is likely a really silly question, but I am finally getting ready to build a couple of these and have two different sets of sliders. Although I scoured the thread a few times I can't figure out how to determine the correct LED current-limiting resistor value - "value varies by slider brand and LED color. Adjust to taste."? Can someone advise please?
FetidEye
taste = how bright you want to have 'm + what color are they..

a good way to determine this is to pop in a resistor value you expect to be ok, lets say 1k (do not solder yet) and power the daughterboard.
the led should work now, if not wiggle the board a bit to make contact.
decide if the led brightness is ok.
if is is too dark, try a lower value
too light? higher value.

test this till you are satisfied. then solder!


// wooh 1000 posts!
noisefor
So simple (practical). Thanks FetidEye!!

FetidEye wrote:
taste = how bright you want to have 'm + what color are they..

a good way to determine this is to pop in a resistor value you expect to be ok, lets say 1k (do not solder yet) and power the daughterboard.
the led should work now, if not wiggle the board a bit to make contact.
decide if the led brightness is ok.
if is is too dark, try a lower value
too light? higher value.

test this till you are satisfied. then solder!


// wooh 1000 posts!
negativspace
earlabs wrote:
I have built mine but strangely my general outs are not working. NOT AT ALL. The inputs are okay and the individual outs are as well (except for channel 1 and 4, but that's a different issue).

I am completely at loss about where to look. Wiring seems ok, jacks are soldered and grounded ok. very frustrating


1) Probe the outputs on the CGS board to check that the output is happening at all.

2) Check that the jacks are not shorted to ground.

Since an issue with one of these two things is probable, that should get you started. The daughterboard only has some traces to route the signals to the jacks, so it's unlikely to have anything to do with it. And FWIW we've sold nearly 450 of these and I've never once heard of someone flooding a jack with solder. I wouldn't jump straight to that as the likely culprit. (Although I suppose it's possible.)
clive.grace
If anyone has one of these Mk2 Boards and Panels please let me know. Thonk has been without for a while now and I want to build another one.
widgetoz
clive.grace wrote:
If anyone has one of these Mk2 Boards and Panels please let me know. Thonk has been without for a while now and I want to build another one.

We have the pcbs, front panel and full component kits for the complete build - www.elby-designs.com
spotta
I recently ordered mine from Synthcube who still have them in stock.
fragletrollet
Finished the daughterboard and cgs-board, just waiting for the 2x5 header and some proper cabling, and this thing should be up and running SlayerBadger!

If I had some comments, it would be that the daughterboard could have a little better planned out drilling/marking. The silkscreen for the 2 electrolytics and diodes are on the wrong side of the PCB (!!), and the holes for the Jacks are way too big (that might result in excess solder falling into the jacks as previously mentioned). Also the holes for the resistors could be marginally bigger for better wetting/solder flow.

And it would be nice if you could just install a header instead of all the wiring between the cgs and daughterboard (the cgs would need an update for the individual outs, but all the other lettered holes?)
negativspace
Try fitting the jack lugs through a smaller hole and tell me what you learn.

I use the same footprint for all of my retail modules and have therefore soldered tens of thousands of such jacks over the years without a single joint going wrong. It's not an actual problem.

Silkscreen is only on the wrong side of you choose to install your parts on the other side. They'll fit on the screened side just as easily if that bugs you. My fab house only screens one side, so learn to love it.
fragletrollet
First off, this was only meant as a friendly observation from my point of view.

The diodes did actually interfere with the nextmost Jack, so I had to remove it and re-solder it from the other side. The electrolytics are too tall to fit between the front panel and the daughterboard, but I Guess I could have mounted them laying Down, but I don`t think that`s intended? But again, it`s no real problem, just small details. I do appreciate someone making this stuff anyways love
flyingMono
Alright, finally finished putting it all together, my sliders light up with a pleasant brightness. No aircraft will be flying into my apartment attempting to land. hihi

However, nothing works. When I plugged it in, there weren't any magic smoke leaks, so I know I did that right, plus I checked the shrouded header 4 billion times before I soldered it into place.

I checked the jacks and my meter is too dumb to tell me if there is a short. But they all behave the same. If nothing is plugged into the jack, I can test for continuity on the jack lugs and my meter beeps accordingly. When I plug a jack in, no beep as you would expect. So I don't think it's the jacks.

Next problem is I don't have a scope. It's probably high time I buy one and learn to use it considering I keep buying these damned DIY projects because I want to "save money" * cough - bullshit - cough *.

Any suggestions of where or what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for what otherwise will be great module once I get it working. cool
flyingMono
flyingMono wrote:
Alright, finally finished putting it all together, my sliders light up with a pleasant brightness. No aircraft will be flying into my apartment attempting to land. hihi

However, nothing works. When I plugged it in, there weren't any magic smoke leaks, so I know I did that right, plus I checked the shrouded header 4 billion times before I soldered it into place.

I checked the jacks and my meter is too dumb to tell me if there is a short. But they all behave the same. If nothing is plugged into the jack, I can test for continuity on the jack lugs and my meter beeps accordingly. When I plug a jack in, no beep as you would expect. So I don't think it's the jacks.

Next problem is I don't have a scope. It's probably high time I buy one and learn to use it considering I keep buying these damned DIY projects because I want to "save money" * cough - bullshit - cough *.

Any suggestions of where or what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for what otherwise will be great module once I get it working. cool


Now it's really not working, I reflowed the "M" output on the daughter board and things started to work IF I didn't push the jacks all the way in. So maybe my jacks are messed up.

Some of the outputs seemed really low too, I'm guessing I might have to reflow all of the outputs from the daughter board.

Then there was a PFT sound and the smell of a capacitor going bye-bye and now the 11k slider doesn't light up.

What now? Clearly the LED is toast in the slider.

very frustrating
flyingMono
flyingMono wrote:
flyingMono wrote:
Alright, finally finished putting it all together, my sliders light up with a pleasant brightness. No aircraft will be flying into my apartment attempting to land. hihi

However, nothing works. When I plugged it in, there weren't any magic smoke leaks, so I know I did that right, plus I checked the shrouded header 4 billion times before I soldered it into place.

I checked the jacks and my meter is too dumb to tell me if there is a short. But they all behave the same. If nothing is plugged into the jack, I can test for continuity on the jack lugs and my meter beeps accordingly. When I plug a jack in, no beep as you would expect. So I don't think it's the jacks.

Next problem is I don't have a scope. It's probably high time I buy one and learn to use it considering I keep buying these damned DIY projects because I want to "save money" * cough - bullshit - cough *.

Any suggestions of where or what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for what otherwise will be great module once I get it working. cool


Now it's really not working, I reflowed the "M" output on the daughter board and things started to work IF I didn't push the jacks all the way in. So maybe my jacks are messed up.

Some of the outputs seemed really low too, I'm guessing I might have to reflow all of the outputs from the daughter board.

Then there was a PFT sound and the smell of a capacitor going bye-bye and now the 11k slider doesn't light up.

What now? Clearly the LED is toast in the slider.

very frustrating


Solved one problem, the input jacks, upper and lower comb jacks, and all out jacks were upside down.

I'm such a rookie... Dead Banana
fragletrollet





It`s alive and breathing (fire) Dead Banana Man this is one feedback-monster! Talk about making dubstep wobbles out of any drumbeat we're not worthy SlayerBadger! Sure you can use it as a normal eq, but hey, it ain`t no Neve lol

Real happy to get it all working first try, still 100% success rate on my builds so far (crossed fingers).

Thanks for an awesome project!
fragletrollet
CV`able gain on bands would have been killer love Would it be doable with any hacks? I guess not.. I`ll use my hands Mr. Green
bkbirge
fragletrollet wrote:
CV`able gain on bands would have been killer love Would it be doable with any hacks? I guess not.. I`ll use my hands Mr. Green


Sure you could hack it. Synthrotek (I think) offers a drop in vca for any pot. Price them and you might get an idea why adding 10 vca's to this circuit probably was not chosen!
unease
The thing is that since the new version has separate outs you can put them all through their own VCA if you want. Or you can group them to a few, say 2-3 VCAs and do interesting things!
It was discussed if it was worth it to include VCAs on the new version but that would have made the module much more expensive and more complex to build. But with the separate outs the possibilities are really there, it's just a matter of how many VCAs and modulation sources you have thumbs up
Too bad I just don't have the time to build it right now, I'm really eager to try it out!

Finally, where are all the audio demos of this thing!? angry angry hihi
fragletrollet
This one? Way cool. I do understand the omition tough, but I think I have a project on my hands then... Where in the circuit would this be inserted?
fragletrollet
unease wrote:
The thing is that since the new version has separate outs you can put them all through their own VCA if you want. Or you can group them to a few, say 2-3 VCAs and do interesting things!
It was discussed if it was worth it to include VCAs on the new version but that would have made the module much more expensive and more complex to build. But with the separate outs the possibilities are really there, it's just a matter of how many VCAs and modulation sources you have thumbs up
Too bad I just don't have the time to build it right now, I'm really eager to try it out!

Finally, where are all the audio demos of this thing!? angry angry hihi


But controlling the output of the separate outputs into a vca and mixer would not be the same as controlling the gain of each band? I mean you would be controlling the output of the eq, but not the internal gain in the eq, where all the feedback and magic happens.
unease
fragletrollet wrote:
unease wrote:
The thing is that since the new version has separate outs you can put them all through their own VCA if you want. Or you can group them to a few, say 2-3 VCAs and do interesting things!
It was discussed if it was worth it to include VCAs on the new version but that would have made the module much more expensive and more complex to build. But with the separate outs the possibilities are really there, it's just a matter of how many VCAs and modulation sources you have thumbs up
Too bad I just don't have the time to build it right now, I'm really eager to try it out!

Finally, where are all the audio demos of this thing!? angry angry hihi


But controlling the output of the separate outputs into a vca and mixer would not be the same as controlling the gain of each band? I mean you would be controlling the output of the eq, but not the internal gain in the eq, where all the feedback and magic happens.


Well, however you add VCAs they would probably change the behaviour in feedback patches. If VCAs had been added as an integral part of the EQ people would probably complain that it would behave differently than the original. There is nothing stopping you from patching external feedback loops including VCAs.
simfonik
Finally getting around to building these and I've learned that some of the polystyrene caps that used to be available individually via Mouser now require a minimum order of 100. d'oh!

These are what I still need:

[4] 47pf
[4] 1n
[4] 2n2
[4] 47n

Does anyone happen to have any surplus they'd be interested in selling?

help
simfonik
Do I have the orientation correct? I'm assuming the line indicates the 1 pin.

negativspace
Yes, that's correct. thumbs up

For the caps, use ceramic for the 47pf as those are not part of the filter bands. The 47n are perfectly fine to sub with polypropylene or C0G if you have to. Styrenes above 10nF are tougher to source... I periodically buy 5-10 on ebay, usually some decent deals can be had. (Buck or two apiece.)

Small Bear has lots of values in stock as well, so if Mouser wants you to buy 100 give SB a shot. 10nF rule still applies, at least last time I checked.
negativspace
On the 10 VCAs thing...it was more a matter of complexity than anything. 10 good VCAs would've doubled the parts count and in the end it was just an epic case of feature-creep. Granted it would be cool, and so would envelope followers on each band for the LEDs, but... at some point you start to feel silly for bejewelling the gilded lily. lol

I've hooked one of these up to a bunch of VCAs and it really wasn't as awesome as I'd hoped. If someone would care to prove me wrong with some patching and a video I might be persuaded to pursue it. It may be a matter of manufacturing a populated daughterboard, or a second independent 2x6" as SOIC could be too big for this, but if someone can prove it's worth it...

(How's that for a demo-video-stimulator? twisted )
simfonik
negativspace wrote:
Yes, that's correct. thumbs up

For the caps, use ceramic for the 47pf as those are not part of the filter bands. The 47n are perfectly fine to sub with polypropylene or C0G if you have to. Styrenes above 10nF are tougher to source... I periodically buy 5-10 on ebay, usually some decent deals can be had. (Buck or two apiece.)

Small Bear has lots of values in stock as well, so if Mouser wants you to buy 100 give SB a shot. 10nF rule still applies, at least last time I checked.


Thanks!

One more question: Am I correct in thinking these will fit the hole pattern for the pots?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV09AF-40-20K-A54/?qs =sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7Yb9jxwMpGsoIToufqzrvHq8%3d
negativspace
Yes.
listentoaheartbeat
negativspace wrote:
And you'd better buy them, we're not running another batch until he's out. cool


So there will be another batch? I do consider ordering from Synthcube, however I might not be able to go through with it anytime soon.
negativspace
I'm leaning toward yes, but it's not imminent.
widgetoz
listentoaheartbeat wrote:
negativspace wrote:
And you'd better buy them, we're not running another batch until he's out. 8-)


So there will be another batch? I do consider ordering from Synthcube, however I might not be able to go through with it anytime soon.

Currently I would doubt that there would be anymore of this specific pcb as the front panel is no longer available in the current format.
There is a new front panel coming out that complies with the original Serge design and it has its own fully dedicated pcb, does not use surface mount devices and does not require any wiring or modification or reworking of the boards.
We have some of these 'current' front panels and pcbs in stock.
listentoaheartbeat
widgetoz wrote:
listentoaheartbeat wrote:
negativspace wrote:
And you'd better buy them, we're not running another batch until he's out. cool


So there will be another batch? I do consider ordering from Synthcube, however I might not be able to go through with it anytime soon.

Currently I would doubt that there would be anymore of this specific pcb as the front panel is no longer available in the current format.
There is a new front panel coming out that complies with the original Serge design and it has its own fully dedicated pcb, does not use surface mount devices and does not require any wiring or modification or reworking of the boards.
We have some of these 'current' front panels and pcbs in stock.


You mean a panel with knobs instead of faders? But how does this affect the Clarke Robinson / negativespace collaboration if they decide to do another run?
negativspace
It doesn't.
widgetoz
listentoaheartbeat wrote:
widgetoz wrote:
listentoaheartbeat wrote:
negativspace wrote:
And you'd better buy them, we're not running another batch until he's out. 8-)


So there will be another batch? I do consider ordering from Synthcube, however I might not be able to go through with it anytime soon.

Currently I would doubt that there would be anymore of this specific pcb as the front panel is no longer available in the current format.
There is a new front panel coming out that complies with the original Serge design and it has its own fully dedicated pcb, does not use surface mount devices and does not require any wiring or modification or reworking of the boards.
We have some of these 'current' front panels and pcbs in stock.


You mean a panel with knobs instead of faders? But how does this affect the Clarke Robinson / negativespace collaboration if they decide to do another run?

They never got approval from Serge to release the design nor use the Serge name. So legally Clarke can't do a run of that panel and so the negativespace pcb would also be redundant.
No, it has sliders but is the original design arrangement as per the Ken Stone pcb, no additional outputs.
negativspace
Laurie, Clarke and I are aware of your position in this matter but respectfully we disagree.

First of all I got approval from Ken Stone to produce this kit - an accessory for his CGS202, nothing more - before I started the first run in 2012. I've made him aware in advance of each subsequent run (so he could stock up on PCBs) and he has always been supportive. He even redesigned the PCB recently, laying all of the wires out on one edge and in the same order as they appear on my daughterboard, to make wiring quicker and easier for this specific application. Clearly he approves of the project. (And why not? It's generated almost $13,000 in PCB sales for him in its lifetime.)

For Serge's part, all I have is hearsay and perhaps Clarke can elaborate, but they met a few months ago in San Francisco and Clarke had a chance to show him the current project and discuss our situation, especially as it concerns Elby. (I'll keep that private; it's business that doesn't need to be aired publicly.) Apparently he was thrilled to see it in Euro, delighted to see both Kens and my name on the front panel alongside his, and very intrigued by the sliders and individual outputs. I don't think he has an issue with it either.

He left contact information; I'm considering pursuing it. Imagine if I licensed the design straight-up... I could even do a retail version and sell it pre-built in stores. I'd make a killing! But I don't want to go that route. I feel a tremendous loyalty to Ken for all of his help and support over the years and I don't want to cut him out of the loop.
simfonik
How is everyone else getting the 9mm pots to fit? I got the Alpha pots I linked to a few posts back, and the pins on opposing sides are too big to fit the holes on the PCB. Here's a pic of what I got:

negativspace
Yup, those tabs are a bit wider than the ones on the metal-shaft parts... you can try trimming them with clippers, or just cut them off. The jacks + standoffs will hold the panel just fine.
widgetoz
simfonik wrote:
How is everyone else getting the 9mm pots to fit? I got the Alpha pots I linked to a few posts back, and the pins on opposing sides are too big to fit the holes on the PCB. Here's a pic of what I got:

You could just drill the holes a bit larger on the pcb, they aren't used for any electrical purpose (if I recall correctly)
negativspace
^ Entirely correct.
fragletrollet
I think I have a weird grounding issue on mine.

It works totally correct, but when I have a cable going from the "All Outputs" and touching the tip of the other end of the cable to the panel (or the very first second when inserting into a jack before it is fully seated) the sound cuts out. Any hints?
negativspace
Unless I completely misunderstand your issue, that sounds like normal behavior... if you short the tip of the cable plugged into the output to ground, the sound should cut out.

Same thing happens when you insert the cable - it's part of the design of 3.5mm jacks that you'll ground them briefly upon insertion. Think about the arrangement of contacts inside the jack - the tip contact carries signal and the sleeve contact carries ground. The tip of the cable has to pass over the sleeve contact on its way in, meaning that when it passes by the ground contact it momentarily contacts and shorts tip to ground.
simfonik
Just finished mine and it's partially working. Both ALL OUT work as expected when cutting or boosting frequencies.

Problems are:

1. Lower comb outputs still output upper frequencies.
2. Upper comb outputs still output lower frequencies.
3. Individual outs output nothing.

Any suggestions on where to start for troubleshooting?
negativspace
Stupid question, but have you done all of the individual output wires? (You'd be surprised, I've had that come back "no" more than once.)

If the input mixer is working then the SMT section is at least partially functional, so you should be able to find the fault if it's elsewhere.

Upper and Lower outs are not fully separated, don't be surprised to get a lot of each other in those outputs.

Main out... again, most likely an issue on the CGS board as there is no real circuitry for that on the daughterboard. (Just a trace to connect the wire pad to the jack tip lug.)
simfonik
Your question isn't nearly as stupid as my answer: oops I totally missed the individual output wiring.

I'll sort that out and see where that leaves me.

Thanks for the help! smile
negativspace
There's a reason that's always the first question. hihi
Waz
Looking for a BOM for the CGS 202. Could anyone help me out? Specifically the capacitors. However, the whole BOM would be appreciated!

SlayerBadger!
woodster
The CGS202 BOM is on Ken's CGS202 Webpage -

http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs202_reseq.html

Daughterboard & Frontpanel BOM are in this thread, 1st post
Waz
woodster wrote:
The CGS202 BOM is on Ken's CGS202 Webpage -

http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs202_reseq.html

Daughterboard & Frontpanel BOM are in this thread, 1st post


Err i meant mouser BOM, or perhaps any place that has ALL of the caps in stock at one place.
fragletrollet
Elby have them all in one place cool
Waz
About to go to scary town, population - me. Wanted to see if this was all correct before venturing there.

This is some crazy weird wiring here. Kind wish it wasn't so "make-shift".

negativspace
The correct term is "DIY." You wanna modify something, you gotta hack it. hihi

Everything looks correct except for the 29Hz point on chip marked "1", you want to use the pin closest to your "9" rather than to your "2".
Waz
Ahh so one pin over to the right?

Thanks man for your help! You've gotten me out of so many binds.
negativspace
Correct! (And of course you're welcome... always happy to help.)
noisefor
Finally got one of two done. Works like a charm! Thanks to all for the tips/support and to everyone who helped make it happen! Wiring takes patience, but pays off in the end!



neon
Just finished my first one of two! Very, very fun. I did notice that the signal from the main output/all out jacks was quite a bit quieter than that coming from the individual outs or the upper/lower comb outs. To solve this, I swapped the two resistors that are acting as a mixer between pins 1 and 7 of U5 and pin 2 of U7 - they're mark as 47k on the board, but I replaced them with 330R, and now the all out level matches the other outputs, at least to my ear. Haven't checked on the scope to see if the levels are an exact match or if this introduces ridiculous clipping or anything, but it seems fine to me... if anyone sees why this modification should not take place, speak now or forever hold your peace eek!

Edit: nnnnnnope, that didn't work out to well - just causes the input of the mixer-amp in U7 to get totally clipped. OK for feedback patches, but renders the thing main out pretty much useless for "normal" EQ purposes. Does anyone have any suggestions for upping the gain on the all-out outputs? Maybe if the mix resistors were a lower value and the feedback resistor was dropped to match, so that the U7 mixer was still at unity gain? I'm really flailing around in the dark here Dead Banana Dead Banana Dead Banana
Monobass
I found a spare Serge Resonant EQ Mk. II panel if anyone needs one... I don't have the CGS or Panel PCBs though. email me on info@thonk.co.uk
PWM
I won't need the panel, but I am interested in the width measurement. wink
Jop
Just finished mine with cheap ceramics, and I must say I like what I hear. I'm happy to put some audio through it for a comparison with someone else polystyrene build.

For the (red) led limiting resistors I have used 7,5K in combination with the Bourns sliders (PTL45-15R1-503B2). Sadly burned one when testing, so if someone has a spare red led (3x4mm) I'm happy to hear smile


FetidEye
i have a led for you
ik stop 'm wel in een envelop smile
negativspace
PWM wrote:
I won't need the panel, but I am interested in the width measurement. wink


It's 32hp. Technically you could get away with 30hp but the CGS board is 6" long so you're stuck there. (30hp = 5.998" = close enough; file PCB edges if necessary.)
PWM
Thanks Negative Space!

Are these still avalible? The thread name suggests they are but they're sold out at Thonk for a while now.
Jop
Synthcube still have stock:

http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=5 89&search=EQ&page=2
PWM
Thanks a bunch, Jop!
orasund
Apologies if i missed this somewhere in the thread - but with latest version, where does the power section [Z W X] of the daughter board connect to the main board? Or is it now connected as part of the row of labeled connections on the edge of the daughter board?

Thanks!
phidelity
I picked up the Res EQ a while back and am having some troubles with the individual outs on the 61Hz, 1.5, 2.8, 5.2, and 11kHz. I get nothing out of their respective jacks. I've double checked for the appropriate connection/solder points and reflowed the solder connections but still nothing. All I get is a little 'pop'.

I've also checked the orientation of the jack and it's correct.

Any suggestions where my issue might be?
spotta
Finished mine, but unlike my mk1 this has issues!
Currently getting a nasty white noise/feedback scream out of every single output!
I've checked and double checked everything but I must be missing something.
Hopefully some more eyes might be able to see something i've missed?



PWM
I powerd up the doughterboard yesterday to check which resistor valeu I want to use for LED brightness, but it seems I have a problem.
V+ is shorted to ground.. confused I've installed all components minus the jack sockets, input attenuation pots and current limiting resistors.

Two questions:
1) Did anybody else encounter this specific problem?
2) does one blow up a TL074 if V+ is shorted to ground (for less then 2 seconds)? I can't recall ever doing this before..


I looked over the board a thousand times, but, for the life of me, I can't find anything..!

Thanks in advance!
PWM
Bump.. help
spotta
PWM wrote:
Bump.. help
+1 hmmm.....
flab
I have one of those , and i would love to get another one, any chance will be another run, maybe only the control pcb, not even a panel needed here.
PWM
Fixed! The problem was a fault on the panel PCB..
spotta
PWM wrote:
Fixed! The problem was a fault on the panel PCB..

A fault on the actual PCB or with the build?
PWM
spotta wrote:
PWM wrote:
Fixed! The problem was a fault on the panel PCB..

A fault on the actual PCB or with the build?



The actual PCB. The +V pad that supplies the CGS PCB was connected to ground..
These things happen. Always check a PCB on manufacturing mistakes before populating.
spacenoodle
Mine is late to the party but it looks so cute in a mini case I can hardly stand it.



PWM
That's one sexy rainbow EQ!
Jonachi
Is this still available somewhere?
PWM
Synthcube has 1 in stock:
http://synthcube.com/cart/serge-res-eq-bundle-panel-pcb-and-cgs202-pcb  ?search=Resonant%20eq&description=true
jondent
PWM wrote:
spotta wrote:
PWM wrote:
Fixed! The problem was a fault on the panel PCB..

A fault on the actual PCB or with the build?



The actual PCB. The +V pad that supplies the CGS PCB was connected to ground..
These things happen. Always check a PCB on manufacturing mistakes before populating.


How did you correct this?
Did you need to cut any traces?
fleetway76
This will probably be a blast from the past for everyone here but I am just getting round to building this.

I have a question about the individual out wiring. How did you guys avoid the back of the pads shorting with the metal case of the sliders? I assume that the sliders are meant to be flush with the PCB, but it seems like that would mean it was touching metal-metal.

Did everyone solder the individual outs onto the 'back' face of the control board?

I guess soldering the sliders last makes sense otherwise.
kristofkonya
Hi guys just seeing this awesome design is there still any place where I can get the panels and pcbs..?
widgetoz
kristofkonya wrote:
Hi guys just seeing this awesome design is there still any place where I can get the panels and pcbs..?

I have one in stock and then have the ES202 variant (as well as the original ES22)
PWM
jondent wrote:
PWM wrote:
spotta wrote:
PWM wrote:
Fixed! The problem was a fault on the panel PCB..

A fault on the actual PCB or with the build?



The actual PCB. The +V pad that supplies the CGS PCB was connected to ground..
These things happen. Always check a PCB on manufacturing mistakes before populating.


How did you correct this?
Did you need to cut any traces?


Missed this one. Apologies. I seem to remember there was a power rail trace connected to the ground-plane. I did cut this trace.
I'll take a look later today or tomorrow.
Jonachi
Anyone have a mouser cart for this?
widgetoz
Jonachi wrote:
Anyone have a mouser cart for this?

We can supply a full kit of parts for this design
lionelfischer
hello everyone, i just got my third serge resonant eq and the slider led's on this one are a bit too bright for my tastes, i'm not able to take it apart and dim them and i dont want to bother my builder friend to do it since its not that big of a deal, i was hoping there are some kind of little buchla easel style "caps" i could put on the sliders to cover up the leds? is there a particular jimmy hat that could work for these? or even if not a perfect fit, perhaps could be somehow made to work? any advice?
PWM
lionelfischer wrote:
hello everyone, i just got my third serge resonant eq and the slider led's on this one are a bit too bright for my tastes, i'm not able to take it apart and dim them and i dont want to bother my builder friend to do it since its not that big of a deal, i was hoping there are some kind of little buchla easel style "caps" i could put on the sliders to cover up the leds? is there a particular jimmy hat that could work for these? or even if not a perfect fit, perhaps could be somehow made to work? any advice?


You could try to fit over those toggle switch caps. There widely available!
Saw this Tayda link just now:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/new-arrivals/toggle-switch-handle-cap- red.html


@ jondent, Had an unexpected busy week. I'll take a look somewhere next week.
flab
is really easy to change the resistors, just change the resistors


i also have a mouser cart , pm me , there is one at the thread as well
Jonachi
Built it and loveing it. We need more hacked cgs in euro!
widgetoz
Jonachi wrote:
Built it and loveing it. We need more hacked cgs in euro!

Check my Panther CGS7xx and Panther ESxx series of modules... many of thee are CGS (of course all of the Panther CGS 7xx ARE CGS designs)
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