MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

The Definitive Connecting Power Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 7, 8, 9 ... 14, 15, 16  Next [all]
Author The Definitive Connecting Power Thread
drip.feed
Can the outputs of multiple linear power supplies be ganged together?

I have two 500mA linear PSUs in my 2-busboard, Euro case.

Is it safe to physically join the outputs of both supplies into 3 'common rails' (+12, -12, 0V) and then take wires from each rail to my busboards?





My intention is that two PSUs should share the overall load. If, say, busboard #1 draws 600mA and bustard #2 draws 200mA then the combined power supplies will cope.

I have seen this done by fellow Wigglers but have also been told it is a bad idea. Would someone care to clarify?
abelovesfun
I'm a 5U guy, but I often build Euro for others. Here is a short, three step tutorial video showing how to tell what end of a module's power connector is positive if it isn't otherwise marked.

http://www.newpathcommune.com/2015/02/13/find-polarity-eurorack-power- connector/

(for some reason video embed isn't working for me)

I've only been DIYing for 2 years and am self taught, so if there is an issue, please let me know.
phosfiend
one of my cell 90's is the older style with the female connectors on the ribbon. I've always used the 10 pin connections but I'm tight on cable space. I can connect one of the 16 pin bus connectors to a 10pin connector on my module right?

Like so?

kmurph
phosfiend wrote:
one of my cell 90's is the older style with the female connectors on the ribbon. I've always used the 10 pin connections but I'm tight on cable space. I can connect one of the 16 pin bus connectors to a 10pin connector on my module right?

Like so?



no clue but nice ripples hihi just ordered one myself
antofthesky
phosfiend wrote:
one of my cell 90's is the older style with the female connectors on the ribbon. I've always used the 10 pin connections but I'm tight on cable space. I can connect one of the 16 pin bus connectors to a 10pin connector on my module right?

Like so?



I'm doing this right now with a Pitts Midi2 and a Happy Ending Kit because I can't find an extra 10 to 16 pin ribbon cable, with no issues.
reactivatedreality
Hey everyone, got a bit of a noob question.

I'm building my first euro case, and went with Elby designs for my power. I've got an ed126, a 4hp power plate and an external power supply.

My question is how to hook the power plate up to the ed126 - the plate comes with two cables (one yellow and one black), and the ed126 has multiple headers (+16v, 0v, +/- 12v, etc), and I have no idea what I should be connecting to. I'm guessing the 16v and the 0v, but does it matter which cable goes to which header?

Have scoured the net, couldn't find anything, and have emailed Laurie but not sure if he'll reply tonight.

Any help would be very much appreciated!
monads
It's been noted before on the Doepfer +5V adapter, but wanted to include a pic in this sticky

a-100 ad5


Per Doepfer "+5V low cost adapter is used to generate the additionally required +5V. In this case the required current @+5V is taken from the +12V line. Of course there has to be a sufficient current reserve at +12V."
C14ru5
reactivatedreality wrote:
My question is how to hook the power plate up to the ed126 - the plate comes with two cables (one yellow and one black), and the ed126 has multiple headers (+16v, 0v, +/- 12v, etc), and I have no idea what I should be connecting to. I'm guessing the 16v and the 0v, but does it matter which cable goes to which header?

I have a Masonmack case that came with the ED126 v0.1 pre-assembled, and on there, the orange/yellow cable goes to +15V (labeled J101) and the black cable goes to 0V (labeled J102). I'm pretty sure that the connections for +12V and -12V are for daisy-chaining with another power board, probably the ED123.

But please wait for a confirmed answer from Elby, as I don't want to be held responsible if anything goes wrong!
wedeadyet
Useful and helpful thread!
Anton
Hi everyone, first post. Embarrassed to be yet another noob, and my question is probably stupid (but there's just too much joy to be had from these instruments and too much goodness on this forum to stay silent).

Searched through various power consumption threads without finding an answer to this:

What do you do when the power needs of the modules in your—say Doepfer—case exceed the power provided?
How do you put more power in? (Do you?)

Maybe I'm just not getting it (probability of this is overwhelming), but when a 9U case and a 6U case both have the same power supply, aren't you more likely to run out of power with a (full) 9U case as that one would contain more modules?

Thanks in advance; I am truly floored by the generosity and intelligence on this forum.
daverj
Anton wrote:
Maybe I'm just not getting it (probability of this is overwhelming), but when a 9U case and a 6U case both have the same power supply, aren't you more likely to run out of power with a (full) 9U case as that one would contain more modules?


Yes.

The Doepfer 9U cases do not have enough power for everybody. It depends on the combination of modules you get. For some people it's enough. And if you only used Doepfer modules, which tend to be lower power, then it might be enough. But if you like some of the fancier power hungry modules then it won't be enough.

In general you can't easily add more power to a case without changing the supply or adding another one. Some people might add something like a uZeus to power a few extra modules. Others might buy an additional Doepfer supply and mount it in for one of the rows (or pay Doepfer to do that).

Otherwise you need to limit yourself to a combination of modules that will fit within the power available.
Anton
Thanks very much! Happy to hear it makes such straightforward sense. Limitations be limitations! It's peanut butter jelly time!
papertiger
Level 1 newb here with three modules waiting to be plugged in to a Doepfer lc6 case arriving tomorrow.

Eternally grateful for the first post in this thread as I'm frankly terrified of plugging the ribbon cable in the wrong way and blowing myself, and my beautiful modules, up. So, thanks!
charonme
spbaker wrote:
In my short time of euro-accumulating I have had cables built with one end having the red stripe matched to the triangle and the other end not- boom kapow hiss, instant voltage reversal

Daisuk wrote:

This just happened to me. Someone sold me a bad cable like this and I didn't notice until it was too late.
spbaker wrote:
This is kinda ok if you don't have keyed headers

I didn't notice because none of my modules have keyed bowels/shrouds, so I can always plug in the cable according to the red stripe, ignoring the connector keying.

However I have one module (EMW AR 3X) with an unmarked horizontal power connector which is keyed with a bowel/shroud and without any polarity protection and yesterday I unwittingly connected it with this only faulty cable I have (what are the chances!). One capacitor exploded and who knows how many other components on the module got fried.

I have no idea who sold me this cable, but I'm shaking my fist at them now!
daverj
Don't blame the person that sold it to you. Blame the lazy manufacturer that couldn't be bothered to build a cable correctly.

Doepfer and a number of other manufacturers figure that since the key on the connector was never part of the original Doepfer standard, that they (Doepfer and others) don't have to bother paying attention to it when assembling the cables. It probably saves them a whole 3 cents per connector.

When Doepfer was the only one making modules and power distribution, it didn't matter. But everybody, including Doepfer, knows that there are modules and power boards these days that use keyed headers. It is very, very, very simple to make the ribbons correctly every time. There is no excuse any more.

If you buy a brand new module and it comes with a ribbon not made correctly, write a letter to that manufacturer telling them that you are disappointed in them. (don't expect that they'll replace it, but at least let them know how you feel)
L.C.O.
Hi Guys,

I got the Erthenvar 1U CTACT tile, which I am hoping to use in a standalone box. Two questions:

1. What are th three leads (black, red, white) on the unit supposed to connect to?

2. I have a transformer that puts out 12V 750mA Can I use that to power the tile?

Thank you!
p.

daverj
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/
L.C.O.
daverj wrote:
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/


Ah, yes. Thank you!

So, is there any way to get th +/-12 out of the 12V walwart power supply?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.
Summa
L.C.O. wrote:
daverj wrote:
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/


Ah, yes. Thank you!

So, is there any way to get th +/-12 out of the 12V walwart power supply?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.


You need one of these!
L.C.O.
Summa wrote:
L.C.O. wrote:
daverj wrote:
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/


Ah, yes. Thank you!

So, is there any way to get th +/-12 out of the 12V walwart power supply?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.


You need one of these!


That would solve my problem if I had the tile in my euro case. but I am trying to have itinstalled in a separate, standalone box that is powerded by the walwart...
Summa
oh sorry L.C.O. didn't get that part, ask Nicholas at Erthenvar he'll surely know what to do. I think i saw a standalone tile "carrier" at NAMM, but perhaps that was powered from the other eurocase.. hmmm.....
daverj
You would have to DIY a converter using a DC-DC module that converts a positive voltage to a negative one.
L.C.O.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Two 1K resistors is all that was needed to make it work!
:-)

Got this lovely aid from John from Pulplogic, in case anyone is thinking about making their own little case etc.
(hopefully he does not mind me posting it here)

JohnLRice
I'll post this here as a reference but it is not something most people would ever need to do so, just ignore this until someday when you really need to do it! (thanks to Phil of Megaohm Audio for his tip in this thread https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1390843#1390843 )

I got a new module that wouldn't fit between my rack rails. I resolved the problem by cutting off the power connector on the module side of the cable and replacing it with a skinnier MTA 100 connector.

mumpie
Thanks for the details!!
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 7, 8, 9 ... 14, 15, 16  Next [all]
Page 8 of 16
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group