[Shipping] Euro DIY Mid/Side Encoder/Decoder PCB/panel

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I would be interested in:

Through-hole PCB
44
63%
SMT PCB
26
37%
 
Total votes: 70

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Fri Jul 01, 2016 8:42 pm

Those ones in the pic are disc rather than multilayer, the dielectric can still be C0G though. It's not my build so I can't say one way or the other, but it's definitely within the realms of possibility.

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unrecordings
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Post by unrecordings » Tue Jul 05, 2016 3:50 am

Here's my just finished MOTM format conversion. I built a dual unit since that conveniently fills out 1U

Image

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Paranormal Patroler
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Post by Paranormal Patroler » Tue Jul 05, 2016 4:06 am

Are the jacks supposed to be stereo on this ? :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue Jul 05, 2016 7:12 am

Paranormal Patroler wrote:Are the jacks supposed to be stereo on this ? :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
No, it's a regular eurorack module.

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue Jul 05, 2016 7:16 am

unrecordings wrote:Here's my just finished MOTM format conversion. I built a dual unit since that conveniently fills out 1U

Image
Looks very nice!

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Paranormal Patroler
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Post by Paranormal Patroler » Tue Jul 05, 2016 7:43 am

Stab Frenzy wrote:
Paranormal Patroler wrote:Are the jacks supposed to be stereo on this ? :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
No, it's a regular eurorack module.
Hmm, the PCB looked like it had a common ground and two more connections, some where connected with one another some not. :hmm:
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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:51 pm

Paranormal Patroler wrote:
Stab Frenzy wrote:
Paranormal Patroler wrote:Are the jacks supposed to be stereo on this ? :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
No, it's a regular eurorack module.
Hmm, the PCB looked like it had a common ground and two more connections, some where connected with one another some not. :hmm:
You're probably thinking of the switch connections for normalling. The third connection goes to a contact which is switched to the tip connection when there's no jack in the socket. It's used to keep the LR inputs at ground when there's nothing patched in and to normal the MS inputs to the MS outputs so signal will flow through the module when there's nothing patched to processing section.

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Paranormal Patroler
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Post by Paranormal Patroler » Sun Jul 24, 2016 3:11 pm

Stab Frenzy wrote:
Paranormal Patroler wrote:
Stab Frenzy wrote:
Paranormal Patroler wrote:Are the jacks supposed to be stereo on this ? :hmm: :hmm: :hmm:
No, it's a regular eurorack module.
Hmm, the PCB looked like it had a common ground and two more connections, some where connected with one another some not. :hmm:
You're probably thinking of the switch connections for normalling. The third connection goes to a contact which is switched to the tip connection when there's no jack in the socket. It's used to keep the LR inputs at ground when there's nothing patched in and to normal the MS inputs to the MS outputs so signal will flow through the module when there's nothing patched to processing section.
Redid mine with normal jacks (mono)
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Post by calaveras » Sun Aug 14, 2016 5:57 pm

Finally got around to building mine. So far it is a piece of cake. No problem with resistors fitting the holes, but then...Tayda. :tu:
We shall see when I get to the diodes.

Funny, I passed on the red panel because I'm an uptight neatness guy and my rack is only made of black, white or silver panels.
But then I caved for Timo's Yusynth Steiner filter. Which is red with white lettering. (and looks nice next to my Waldorf NW1). :sb:
Still, I'm gonna drill out a blank tonight, and at some point in the future label and paint it. Probably white with black letters. :eurorack:

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Mon Oct 24, 2016 5:01 pm

The LRMSMSLR kit is back in stock at Thonk after being sold out for a while. Get them while the pound is weak! :party:

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/worng-lrmsmslr/

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Wed Dec 07, 2016 10:19 pm

Just a note to let people know I'm going to be on holiday for the next few weeks so the store is closed while I have a break. I was going to direct people to Thonk but looks like they've sold out of them again. Anyway I'd just like to thank everyone for their support in 2016, more great things to come next year!

Morgan

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Post by Stab Frenzy » Sun Jan 15, 2017 10:16 pm

I'm home again and just received a shipment of rev 2.01 boards from the factory. Just a couple of little tweaks to the design, which are:

- 3.2mm mounting holes for 4U and 5U folk so they can (easily) get a bit of mid-side love in their lives
- footprint for a shrouded power header
- 1mm diameter holes for all components so a wider range of sizes will now fit

PCB & panel sets are available again in my bigcartel store http://worngelectronics.bigcartel.com and sets are on their way to thonk who will be doing full kits again I believe.

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starmandeluxe
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Post by starmandeluxe » Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:22 am

Hello! I started my build, and soon noticed one strange thing. Compared to the pictures on this thread, my PCB has R16 and R19 flipped. R19 is right next to C7 instead of R16 as in the thread picture. Is this still OK?

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starmandeluxe
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Post by starmandeluxe » Tue Mar 28, 2017 11:07 am

starmandeluxe wrote:Hello! I started my build, and soon noticed one strange thing. Compared to the pictures on this thread, my PCB has R16 and R19 flipped. R19 is right next to C7 instead of R16 as in the thread picture. Is this still OK?
I got impatient and finished the build anyway. The answer was, yes it's totally fine.

So ummmm THIS MODULE IS MAGICAL. This seriously improves the quality of the mix so much I think this is my new favorite module, EVER.

Super awesome work here!

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue Mar 28, 2017 3:14 pm

Glad you're enjoying it! You must have a v2.00 PCB, I swapped the positions of the 1k resistors on the layout for 2.01 just so they were all next to the op amps, but electrically the circuits are identical.

Congrats on the successful build!

starmandeluxe wrote:
starmandeluxe wrote:Hello! I started my build, and soon noticed one strange thing. Compared to the pictures on this thread, my PCB has R16 and R19 flipped. R19 is right next to C7 instead of R16 as in the thread picture. Is this still OK?
I got impatient and finished the build anyway. The answer was, yes it's totally fine.

So ummmm THIS MODULE IS MAGICAL. This seriously improves the quality of the mix so much I think this is my new favorite module, EVER.

Super awesome work here!

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Post by dubtoms » Mon May 22, 2017 9:38 am

Just got my boards in the mail today ! :banana:

Is it ok to substitute C5, C6, C7, C8 wih 47pf caps ? That the only C0Gs I have. I also have some random 22pf lower grade ceramics. Which option is better ?

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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue May 23, 2017 1:17 am

dubtoms wrote:Just got my boards in the mail today ! :banana:

Is it ok to substitute C5, C6, C7, C8 wih 47pf caps ? That the only C0Gs I have. I also have some random 22pf lower grade ceramics. Which option is better ?
The 47pF should work perfectly fine, it won't make an audible difference. :tu:

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Post by dubtoms » Tue May 23, 2017 2:58 am

Ok thanks a lot, I needed to be sure as I'm building one for myself and one for a fellow wiggler... :75:

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dubtoms
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Post by dubtoms » Tue May 23, 2017 12:43 pm

I finished building them and they seem to work fine.

One thing is a bit counter intuitive to me though. On the panel, it looks like M & S ins are going to M & S outs but it's not happening on both my modules so I assume it's not the case. Can someone please confirm this ? :hmm:

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Tue May 23, 2017 5:24 pm

dubtoms wrote:I finished building them and they seem to work fine.

One thing is a bit counter intuitive to me though. On the panel, it looks like M & S ins are going to M & S outs but it's not happening on both my modules so I assume it's not the case. Can someone please confirm this ? :hmm:
The M & S outs are half-normalled to the M & S ins. To test for build errors you can patch a signal to the L & R inputs, if you get signal on the L & R outputs it's working.

If your customer wants to buy one built by someone who knows how it's all supposed to work I do sell them built on my bigcartel site, that way they'd also be supporting the person that designed the module and provides build support.

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dubtoms
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Post by dubtoms » Wed May 24, 2017 1:03 am

Stab Frenzy wrote:To test for build errors you can patch a signal to the L & R inputs, if you get signal on the L & R outputs it's working.
Thanks for your support Morgan, I guess the modules are fine...

I found this video by Gstormelectro VERY helpful, now that I think of the M & S ins and outs as a "send and return" section it makes much more sense... :doh:
I think you should pin it to the first post :
[video][/video]

I'm very excited to test it properly when I get back from work today :party:

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Stab Frenzy
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Post by Stab Frenzy » Wed May 24, 2017 3:57 am

I've got more in depth videos including the basics of how to use it on the way.

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dubtoms
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Post by dubtoms » Wed May 24, 2017 7:57 am

Looking forward to watch them ! :tu:

This module really opens up a lot of creative ideas. It's great to be able to that that kind of stuff outside software...

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Post by Purveyor2 » Sat Jul 22, 2017 9:52 pm

Just finished the build and wonder if I could get same advise. Seems that my S output isn't working. LR --> LR works, M I/O works - can add filtering, reverb etc and sounds great. S I/O gives me nothing. M -> verb -> S input gives me different verb processing than M -> verb -> M input. So S input works. Any thoughts?

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Post by Stab Frenzy » Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:11 am

Purveyor2 wrote:Just finished the build and wonder if I could get same advise. Seems that my S output isn't working. LR --> LR works, M I/O works - can add filtering, reverb etc and sounds great. S I/O gives me nothing. M -> verb -> S input gives me different verb processing than M -> verb -> M input. So S input works. Any thoughts?
If you're getting signal from L&R in to L&R out that would suggest the module is working fine. Are you sending the same signal to both L&R inputs? If you you wouldn't expect there to be any signal on the S output, as a mono signal has no side component.

Try plugging a signal to just the L input and nothing to the R. You should get the same signal on both M and S outputs.

If you've done all that and the S output still isn't giving you anything then trace the signal back from the output to see where it's stopping. With a test tone plugged into the L input check back from the S out jack, either side of R14, pin 7 of U2 (the second op amp from the top) pins 5 & 6 of U2, either side of R10 and R8. Further back than this and an error would effect both M & S outputs so it should be somewhere in that list.

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