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ARP 1601 clone Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 14, 15, 16 ... 19, 20, 21  Next [all]
Author ARP 1601 clone Build Thread

Kipling

http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/

The Planck Modifier Set in White (WAN) gives you 18 of them for $16


nikosale

I have this voltage converter for substite the one in the BOM:
http://www.mouser.fi/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PXD3024WD15virtualkey 57750000virtualkey967-PXD3024WD15
Could somebody confirm that it is okay to use it.


From what I am looking the pins and the legs match the holes on the pcb but how about the components before to converter?


Altitude909

That's fine but 30 watts is WAY more than you need and expensive as all hell, the meanwell is $18 and is probably 3 times more than you need. IIRC, it pulls something like 130 mA


Kipling

Altitude909 wrote:
That's fine but 30 watts is WAY more than you need and expensive as all hell, the meanwell is $18 and is probably 3 times more than you need. IIRC, it pulls something like 130 mA


Less than that actually. I recorded mine at 35mA (-ve rail) and 64mA (+ve rail).

Unless you need that much current to power other devices I'd exercise some caution as not all such devices will power up with such a small load, although the data sheet for the TDK Lambda one mentioned states it does not have a lower current limit.

The Meanwell DKE10A-15 has a lower current limit of 33.3mA so the 1601 draws just enough to start it up.

The Artesyn one in the BOM does not have a lower current limit.


nikosale

I have the TDK lambda expensive voltage regulator as extra.
Accidentally ordered it for ttsh build and didn't return it because of postal fees and general lazyness.


Kipling

In that case yes it will fit and work in the 1601. I think I used one in my TTSH.


aladan

Hi guys,

I'm finally building my round 1 unit. I have a spare small SMPS I'd like to use - very similar to the one in ultravox's photo here:



My supply provides -15V and +15V each at 500mA, powered from mains input directly - so more than enough for the sequencer. My question is this: do I need to install the DC-DC converter in this case? I see ultravox has one in his photo, but maybe his supply is only single rail.

Assuming that's correct then I just connect my supply directly to PL1, right?

Thank you for your help.


ultravox

Hi aladan, if you have a +/-15V PSU then you don't need the DC/DC converter. I had a spare DC/DC converter from my TTSH builds and decided to use it in the sequencer. So I bought a 15v/2a SMPS to go with it. I don't like wall warts so all my builds have internal PSU's.


aladan

ultravox wrote:
Hi aladan, if you have a +/-15V PSU then you don't need the DC/DC converter. I had a spare DC/DC converter from my TTSH builds and decided to use it in the sequencer. So I bought a 15v/2a SMPS to go with it. I don't like wall warts so all my builds have internal PSU's.


Excellent! That's what I was hoping, but I wanted to make sure the DC-DC converter wasn't some magic thing I didn't understand cool


Synthasonic

Kipling wrote:
yan6 wrote:
What is the value of C42, it seems to be missing from the BOM

Without having any documents open at present, if C42 is the highest capacitor ID then it will be one of the de-bounce caps and therefore 1nF. You should have both of them if you ordered the Mouser cart, but I obviously haven't amended the BOM accordingly.


So i have a question about this... should I have soldered a 1nF cap across the terminals of one of the cherry switches in addition to putting a inF cap in C42, or should it just be in C42 and not across the terminals of one of the switches?


Kipling

Synthasonic wrote:

So i have a question about this... should I have soldered a 1nF cap across the terminals of one of the cherry switches in addition to putting a inF cap in C42, or should it just be in C42 and not across the terminals of one of the switches?

On the Rev 3 PCBs the de-bounce capacitors are already on the PCB so you do not need to solder another one across the switches.


belowtheconcrete

Hi, all. So, finally getting around to this project, and already a question. I have a Rev. 3 PCB, which has printed on it a note that "all sliders, switches and sockets mount on the opposite side." The sliders, switches and 3.5mm sockets make sense, of course, but does "sockets" also include the IC sockets? I'm not about to try to follow the traces and compare to the schematic, and seems like a lot of work if the PCB were changed for this. Cheers.


aladan

belowtheconcrete wrote:
Hi, all. So, finally getting around to this project, and already a question. I have a Rev. 3 PCB, which has printed on it a note that "all sliders, switches and sockets mount on the opposite side." The sliders, switches and 3.5mm sockets make sense, of course, but does "sockets" also include the IC sockets? I'm not about to try to follow the traces and compare to the schematic, and seems like a lot of work if the PCB were changed for this. Cheers.


My rev 1 says the same thing - I'm 99.99999999% sure IC sockets are on the component side. See build guide photos for clarification.


groove

I hope I didn't miss something obvious in the build guide, but what is the exact wiring of PL3/PL4 in the REV3 boards?

Do I wire the power switch directly to PL4 and the 2.1mm power jack directly to PL3?


Kipling

groove wrote:
I hope I didn't miss something obvious in the build guide, but what is the exact wiring of PL3/PL4 in the REV3 boards?

Do I wire the power switch directly to PL4 and the 2.1mm power jack directly to PL3?

I don't have the board layout in front of me but the power header goes straight to the DC in jack and the switch header goes to the switch only. It allows for easier assembly and disassembly as PCB, front panel and case can all be separated without desoldering.

Only the 3.5mm jacks, sliders and switches mount on the reverse (panel) side of the PCB. All other components including IC sockets mount on the silk-screen side.


belowtheconcrete

Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense, seeing as the IC sockets are optional.


el-bee

So.. Have Jhulk's 1601 kit, rev3 pcb and am looking to order the parts. Which BOM is good for this version?


Kipling

el-bee wrote:
So.. Have Jhulk's 1601 kit, rev3 pcb and am looking to order the parts. Which BOM is good for this version?

Use the link to the Mouser Cart on the first page of the build thread. That is updated for Rev 3 PCBs. The Mouser Cart contains the 16 60mm sliders; if you got these through jhulk you can delete them from the cart.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1902237#1902237

There are the few non-Mouser parts to take into account such as the key caps and MC14528 IC, 3.5mm jacks and two CA3086 ICs.


el-bee

Kipling wrote:
Use the link to the Mouser Cart on the first page of the build thread. That is updated for Rev 3 PCBs. There are the few non-Mouser parts to take into account such as the key caps and MC14528 IC, 3.5mm jacks and two CA3086 ICs.


Ok thanks mate! I'm double triple quadruple checking anything 'BOM' as I want to order everything on one go. No annoyance like doing a bonus shopping round for a missing resistor or such smile

I'm also planning to fit white and blue LEDs to step sliders per the orig. colors (2 white, 2 blue, 2 white etc.). Any pointers how to adjust the resistor values?

I tested both white and blue on my TTSH but they were way too bright even on lowest trimmer setting (ton of spares yay). Is there a similar trimmer on 1601 and if so, how to get a really low brightness w/o wrecking the current needed for that other sub-circuit? Are there any mods to source the current for this other sub-circuit so that it wouldn't be dependent on the slider LEDs at all?


StormB

Hi
i have a problem with the Calibration
R217 A Mod Adjust is 1,00K Trimmer
R218 B Mod Adjust is 1,00K Trimmer
i Measure and record the Voltage on point A+B
but is not possible to adjust the right Voltage

must i Change the Trimmer R217,R218 to 2,5K
to fix this Problem

Many Thanks


Kipling

StormB wrote:
Hi
i have a problem with the Calibration
R217 A Mod Adjust is 1,00K Trimmer
R218 B Mod Adjust is 1,00K Trimmer
i Measure and record the Voltage on point A+B
but is not possible to adjust the right Voltage

must i Change the Trimmer R217,R218 to 2,5K
to fix this Problem

Many Thanks

That shouldn't be necessary. Under normal conditions the final value after adjustment is below 1k. What voltage range are you getting?


StormB

Hi
i Measure Slider 1 half position
A 4,265 V
B 4,252 V

the range from Trimmer
R217 5,005 - 5,650
R218 5,001 - 5,530


Kipling

Are you able to get the voltages to match as per step 12 for A MOD ADJUST and step 14 for B MOD ADJUST as measured in step 9, i.e. unity (x 1.00) gain on both?

Although it states you should see near +5 volts in step 9, the actual value is not hugely important and is dependent on setting the first slider at exactly its central position and the linearity of the slider. They are +/- 20% tolerance and I think the old ARP ones were +/- 30%.

What is important is that you can adjust R217 and R218 to get exactly the same voltages at steps 12 and 14 as you measured in step 9. If everything calibrates correctly up to and including the Quantizer CV Volts/Oct tests, and both the MOD ADJUST results are wrong then there could be a common problem around the CV input gain so check R214, R215 and R216 are all the correct value. You could also try swapping out Z26.


Kipling

el-bee wrote:
I'm also planning to fit white and blue LEDs to step sliders per the orig. colors (2 white, 2 blue, 2 white etc.). Any pointers how to adjust the resistor values?

I tested both white and blue on my TTSH but they were way too bright even on lowest trimmer setting (ton of spares yay). Is there a similar trimmer on 1601 and if so, how to get a really low brightness w/o wrecking the current needed for that other sub-circuit? Are there any mods to source the current for this other sub-circuit so that it wouldn't be dependent on the slider LEDs at all?


There's no LED brightness trimmer on the 1601. Although I have not tried any other LED colours this question has come up before and the answer is be careful, as reducing the current to dim the LEDs will impact on the operation of the gate output circuitry which is part of the same current path.

Z4C, D, and E have to be able to turn on when current is passed through the slider LEDs. This could be compensated for if using a single colour of LEDs requiring a lower current by raising the value of R81 and R86 for banks A and B (both normally 680R), and that of R133, R142 and R151 (all normally 100R) to achieve the same base-emitter voltage on Z4C, D and E respectively.

If you need a different current for two different colour LEDs in the same bank you could be into track mods to add resistance to only the lowest current LEDs and possibly bypass resistors to maintain a similar current through to Z4C, D and E.

If you can rig up a test with a +15V supply to see exactly what current and hence resistor value gives you the desired brightness
for each colour LED then we can maybe find a solution.

It's not impossible but not that easy is the best answer I could give.


StormB

hi
i have checked the Value from R214,R215,R216
all Resistors are correct
so changed the Op Amp Z26 but the same values

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