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New Gieskes Video Synth from Bleep Labs: 3TrinsRGB+1c
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Video Synthesis Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 [all]
Author New Gieskes Video Synth from Bleep Labs: 3TrinsRGB+1c
jondent
paperwork wrote:
jondent wrote:

Maybe the LEDs are in the wrong way?


Ah, good thought! I did have those LEDs in the wrong way (somehow I thought the square pad should have been the cathode, but not the case here!). So now I get LED confirmation of the range switches but still no oscillator video out sadly confused

Also noticed I get a brief flash from the large red LED on the right side of the board when I first plug in. Is that supposed to stay illuminated?

That Red LED doesn't appear to light up at all.

I'm not sure what the problem could be.
shaurjyabanerjee
Dirty_Bill wrote:
Finished my non-CV version, here's my quick and dirty euro panel mount:



Very nice! Any chance of getting a copy of your Euro panel files? I just finished building myself a Ming Mecca and the 3trins is next on my list. Would love to have it be a part of my Eurorack rig though.

Dead Banana

Thanks!
FetidEye
the 3trins fits in euro when on its side.

The panel he is talking about is for the comparator board plugin (next to the 3trins in the picture.

See this thread for more info:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=157807
jondent
3trins to Banana breakout box
Thanks to FetidEye for the idea.
Mine is slightly different.
Uses mini (2mm) bananas and is removable.





The bananas really do speed up your patches.
FetidEye
WOW eek! This looks amazing!
(also: 3 3trinsrgb's!!)

if you make a bigger box, you can fit in the comparator board too
/ or make the HIGH + GND connections on the side of the box, and use multiple interconnectable boxes
jondent
FetidEye wrote:
WOW eek! This looks amazing!
(also: 3 3trinsrgb's!!)

if you make a bigger box, you can fit in the comparator board too
/ or make the HIGH + GND connections on the side of the box, and use multiple interconnectable boxes


Thanks for your kind words FetidEye.
Ive just about finished building 3 or your comparator boards. My plan is to install them permanently with 3 LZX adaptors into a Eurorack panel.
and mount this in front of the 3Trins.
I'll post some pics when its done.
spacetime
3TrinsRGB+1c black panel looks great
FetidEye
@jondent
The panel design file (.ai) is in the build document zip file, (added recently)
for the hole placement on your panel. That saves some time!
jondent
FetidEye wrote:
@jondent
The panel design file (.ai) is in the build document zip file, (added recently)
for the hole placement on your panel. That saves some time!

Many thanks. thumbs up
jsu
Hey,

I have a 3trinsrgb+1c that is not functioning properly since being assembled from a kit and I'm attempting to fix it. Components appear to be correct afaik. Here is a link to details and pics and audio samples... There are two bad solder points that I can see. Is the pad that is partially raised off the board what is screwing things up?

Barely audible red audio. Other channels sound fine.
B&w only video output.
Notable noise (more a shifting whine than hum) when all channels are off, but unit powered on.

Thanks for any assistance.
tenshun
jsu wrote:
Hey,

I have a 3trinsrgb+1c that is not functioning properly since being assembled from a kit and I'm attempting to fix it. Components appear to be correct afaik. Here is a link to details and pics and audio samples... There are two bad solder points that I can see. Is the pad that is partially raised off the board what is screwing things up?

Barely audible red audio. Other channels sound fine.
B&w only video output.
Notable noise (more a shifting whine than hum) when all channels are off, but unit powered on.

Thanks for any assistance.


For the black and white video output do you have it set to the correct NTSC or PAL setting depending on where you live in the world?

As for everything else, it might be time consuming but try and re-dab all the solder joints. I remember when I built my 3trins the Green pitch was not working and went over the whole board redoing all the solder joints and then it started working.

good luck
FetidEye
yes.
-reflow all points that look bad (as in: not perfect soldered), not only the ones you encircled in the pictures
-the lifted pad trace looks like it goes somewhere else too. try to follow the trace and scrape the masking, then solder it to the resistor leg.
-check the NTSC / PAL jumper

and report your findings here!
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