MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Cocteau V1 (by Autonomik Circuits) Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Cocteau V1 (by Autonomik Circuits) Build Thread
effegee
Cocteau V1 (by Autonomik Circuits) Mod PCB for your YOCTO

All first run kits have shipped.

Here is the link to the Cocteau V1 Build Docs v1.0

If you have some cool mods you would like to share, feel free to post them in this thread.

15 December 2017: The silkscreen has the poles reversed for both C124 and C147, so solder them in reverse-- the "+" lead goes to "-" and the "-" lead goes to "+".


Mouser BOM changes:

8 August 2017: 2-pin header (part #571-6404572) quantity increased from 1 to 3


FAQ:

What is the clay-like stuff in the kit?
It is poster tack, which is used to hold the Q28 transistor in place while soldering (see P. 9 of the build doc) and to hold the screws in place when joining Cocteau to the YOCTO (P. 21).

Why are there DP3T slide switches?
The other 500 series SPDT switches are non-shorting, or "break-before-make"(BBM), switches, which can cause the oscillators of some voices to fire when switched (see example of SD sound here). The shorting, or "make-before-break" switches were chosen because they eliminate this effect.

Where is the SK30a? It doesn't look like it came with the kit.
It's encased inside the pink foam in one of the plastic bags.
Rxke
Very nice doc!

I had a bit of a problem viewing it on an older laptop though, but on my main computer no problem.
Paradigm X
Awesome build doc thanks!

Bit daunting eek!

If you had an unbuilt yocto would you build it stock first then desolder or just dive in? I can see pros and cons both ways.

Many thanks!

Cheers
Ben
MrRoper
fwiw I built my Yocto first just to verify it works, it doesnt seem too much to desolder, however trying to find what board has a fault on could be a bit of a bore.

Does look like a daunting build but looking forward to it!
MrRoper
Was there meant to be an sk30a included in the cocteau kit? Build docs suggest so but I didn't get one. Anyone in UK/EU have a source or a spare they'd be willing to part with?
effegee
MrRoper wrote:
Was there meant to be an sk30a included in the cocteau kit? Build docs suggest so but I didn't get one. Anyone in UK/EU have a source or a spare they'd be willing to part with?


The SK30a is inside of the pink foam in one of the plastic bags. Also, I tested each of them individually before shipping, so there are no duds.
MrRoper
Thanks! Found it, I put that little baggie to the side and nearly missed it!

Can anyone in the UK help me source a 2MB pot for the CP density mod (my enclosure has a hole for it already)? Everywhere I've looked doesn't have them, including tayda/ bitsbox.
Also on the Mouser BOM i think you need to add 2 more of:

Mouser No: 571-6404572
Mfr. No: 640457-2
Manufacturer: TE Connectivity
Desc.: Headers & Wire Housings FRICTION LCK HDR 2P Right Angle Post tin

As there's only one on the BOM and I think we need 3 (J15, J27 and J29)?

Getting close on mine!


nanners nanners
effegee
MrRoper wrote:
Can anyone in the UK help me source a 2MB pot for the CP density mod (my enclosure has a hole for it already)?


The 2M pots are a custom order, which is why they are included in the kit.

Four 2M(B) pots shipped in the kit, one each for:
- SD Tune 1
- CB Decay
- CP Density
- Extended CP Density (this is an "optional" mod, so the pot could be used for any other user mod, if desired)

Note: The SD Tune 1 and CB Decay pots are listed as "2M(A) in the build doc. They are actually 2M(B).

Quote:
Also on the Mouser BOM i think you need to add 2 more of:

Mouser No: 571-6404572
Mfr. No: 640457-2
Manufacturer: TE Connectivity
Desc.: Headers & Wire Housings FRICTION LCK HDR 2P Right Angle Post tin


Thank you for the heads up. BOM has been corrected to increase the quantity to 3.
Paradigm X
is it possible to use molex KK instead of mta connectors? only because i already have a load of them and no mta tool

cheers
effegee
Paradigm X wrote:
is it possible to use molex KK instead of mta connectors?


I don't have any KK connectors on hand to check. You can use them if you think they leave enough space for the wires between the housing and the back of the enclosure. Try it and see.
Paradigm X
ok thanks. my enclosures not arrived yet so im not sure about spacing etc. ill check it out when it arrives.

so long as its not a 'it definitely wont work' ill have a look when it arrives.

cheers
ben
rasi
I was wondering if the Cocteau clap mods would be compatible with the BA662A chip, as I've always found the VCA used in the yocto for the clap to be just a tad too clean.

I intend on following the mod described here so pins/resistances match
http://www.e-licktronic.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1194&p=7567&hil it=yocto+ba662#p7567

Otherwise, I have the Cocteau mod completed entirely and I'm just waiting for a case! Finally fixing the clap would be icing on the cake.

Thanks for all your effort
effegee
rasi wrote:
I was wondering if the Cocteau clap mods would be compatible with the BA662A


I haven't tried it, but I can tell you that the Remora 808 CP cartridge (a direct clone of the 808 circuit) works with both the BA6110 and BA662 clone. You just have to switch some pins:

BA662-------> YOCTO BA6110
pin 1 -------> pad 4
pin 3 -------> pad 1
pin 4 -------> pad 3 (and connect to GND)

Cocteau should be compatible, as the mods are not directly connected to the VCA.

JanneI
Hi all.

I have kacper's cocteau case and I have two complains..

First, the spdt switches don't really fit to the holes on the enclosure, way too tight.
Second, the silkscreen on the enclosure comes off just with a slight push with fingers/nails.

I have no complains on the previous kacper case, but this version is not cool. Anyone else building cocteau modded yocto recently? Did you notice this?
momo
JanneI wrote:
Hi all.

I have kacper's cocteau case and I have two complains..

First, the spdt switches don't really fit to the holes on the enclosure, way too tight.
Second, the silkscreen on the enclosure comes off just with a slight push with fingers/nails.

I have no complains on the previous kacper case, but this version is not cool. Anyone else building cocteau modded yocto recently? Did you notice this?


From this thread:
Quote:
kacperpawluk wrote:
Hi! Some people reported problems with silkscreen quality. I anyone have this problem please write me (kacperpawluk@gmail.com or PM). I will repaint it and pay for postage. I changed silkscreen manufacturer. I get sample and quality is much much better now.
Paradigm X
my case hasnt even turned up yet... confused

hopefully its down to them being redone. not heard anything from the man tho...
goldplate
Hey ! Finally I began to build it.

Is it really important to distinguish the foil vs film polyester capacitors ? Is it good if I put mylar everywhere ? With a bit of twist it seems that this will fit.

Nice build doc indeed.
effegee
goldplate wrote:
Is it really important to distinguish the foil vs film polyester capacitors ? Is it good if I put mylar everywhere ? With a bit of twist it seems that this will fit.


Foil is fine if you can get it to fit.
goldplate
I'm finishing it and begin to be very excited with what I hear, especially with the bass drum and hats. The construction is so well designed for such a big mod, congratulation !

About the build, it saves time to make all the connectors in once so here is a list of the lengths to cut for the cables :

Code:
Those are the minimal lengths of cables to cut so if you really want a lot of mobility with connectors in place you can add some more (but it's enough to open/extract Cocteau's PCB from Yocto's one).

SD Tune 1        2x 15 cm (shielded)
SD Tune 2        2x 14 cm (shielded)
BD Env           2x 10 cm
BD Tune          2x 8.5 cm

BD Env (CV)      TBDL
BD Tune (CV)     TBDL

BD Xtra Decay    2x 12 cm
SD Filter        2x 16 cm
Power            3x 7 cm (polarized)
RS-CL2 Trig      1x 13? cm   

SD Decay         2x 17.5 cm (polarized)
LT Reverb        2x 8 cm
SD Filter (CV)   TBDL
SD Decay (CV)    TBDL

LT Decay         2x 15.5 cm
MT Reverb        2x 13 cm
MT Decay         2x 13.5 cm
HT Reverb        2x 8 cm

HT Decay         2x 15.5 cm
RS Tune 1        2x 11 cm
RS Filter        2x 14.5 cm
RS Tune 2        2x 11.5 cm

RS Tune 1 (CV)   TBDL
RS Tune 2 (CV)   TBDL

RS-CL2 Out       1x 21? cm

CP Reverb        2x 7.5 cm
CP Filter Sw     3x 10.5 cm (center pin "polarized")
CP Filter        1x 15 cm

CP Delay         2x 19.5 cm
CP Density       2x 19 cm
CB Filter        2x 11.5 cm
CB Tune 1        2x 17 cm (shielded)

CB Decay         2x 12.5 cm
CB Decay (CV)    TBDL
CB Tune 1 (CV)   TBDL
CB Tune 2        2x 17.5 cm

CB Tune 2 (CV)   TBDL
OH Filter        2x 9 cm
CH Filter        2x 11 cm
CH Decay         1x 9.5 cm

MA Out           1x 10? cm
MA Trig          1x 35? cm
Metal Tune       2x 17.5 cm

White Noise In   1x 13.5 cm
Accent           1x 2.5 cm


TOTAL   24AWG    670 cm
goldplate
Hey,

After a few uses, I found that the choices of potentiometers types and values could be improved, because some of them don't produce any change on half of their range, what is in my opinion unpleasant especially on the filters.

So because I love this project I proceed a lot of tests until finding the best types and values regarding the Alpha round knurled plastic shaft potentiometers available at Tayda. In the same time I added some improvements I found and sometimes this is somewhat mixed with the correction (which means they sometimes cannot be separated).

I'm happy to share the results:

BD Env extended lower & higher and more precise higher range
- add a 470R resistor parallel with R4 or replace it by a 390R resistor, this give an insane punchy pitchbend at maximal value
- replace VR32 by a C10K (anti-log) pot

BD Tune more precise higher range
- replace VR31 by a B100K (lin) pot if a progression still focused on basses is wanted or by a C100K (anti-log) if a linear progression is preferred

SD Filter optionally extended lower range, optionally shortened higher range and more precise higher range
- replace VR34 by a C100K (anti-log) pot or a B25K (lin) pot if the extended lower range is not wanted and optionally put a 1-5K resistor in serie to remove the sound drop at maximal value

SD Snappy Decay extended lower & higher range and slightly more precise lower range
- add a 15k resistor parallel with R7 or replace it by a 9.1K resistor
- replace VR35 by a A500K (log) pot

SD Tune 2 more precise higher range
- replace VR37 by a B1M (lin) pot

LT Reverb maximally extended lower range (allow the range to go until drop out at minimal value)
- connect VR38's pin 1 to ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the North pad of R232 on Yocto components'side
Remark : next step would be to make the switch behaves like others and giving back original value when put in off position

MT Reverb maximally extended lower (allow the range to go until drop out at minimal value)
- connect VR40's pin 1 to ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the East pad of the R261 on Yocto components'side
Remark : next step would be to make the switch behaves like others and giving back original value when put in off position

HT Reverb maximally extended lower range (allow the range to go until drop out at minimal value)
- connect VR42's pin 1 to ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the North pad of the R288
Remark : next step would be to make the switch behaves like others and giving back original value when put in off position

(experimental) LT Decay extended lower range
- add a 100nF film capacitor between VR39’s pin 1 and ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the North pad of R230

MT Decay extended lower range
- add a 27nF film capacitor between VR41’s pin 1 and ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the North pad of R259

(experimental) HT Decay extended lower range
- add a 100nF film capacitor between VR43’s pin 1 and ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the North pad of R286
Remark : this mod could make loose the very long decay availability on the High Conga

RS Tune 1 more precise higher range
- replace VR44 by a B1M (lin) pot

RS Filter shortened lower range and more precise higher range
- replace VR45 by a C10K (lin) pot

RS Tune 2 more precise higher range
- replace VR46 by a C10K (anti-log) pot

CP Reverb maximally extended lower range and more precise higher range
- replace VR47 by a C100K (anti-log) pot and connect its pin 1 to ground
Note : this needs the connector’s cables to be soldered with the good polarity on the Yocto board : left pin of the connector on Cocteau components’ side has to be connected to the East pad of R376 on Yocto components'side
Remark : next step would be to make the switch behaves like others and giving back original value when put in off position

CP Filter extended lower & higher range and more precise higher range
- replace VR48 by a C100K (anti-log) pot
- add a 62R resistor in parallel with R25 or replace it by a 47R

(optional) CP Density shortened lower range (no more drop out of the noise part of the clap sound in the lower range)
- add a 3.6K resistor in serie with VR49 (in e.g. in using the CP Extended Density dual linked pads to cut at VR49 South-East)

CB Filter more precise higher range
- replace VR51 by a C10K (anti-log) pot

CB Long Decay extended higher range
- replace VR52 by a B2M (lin) pot

CB Short Decay shortened higher range and more precise lower range (a bit of decay length at max value will be lost but it’s really an ultra tiny bit)
- replace VR53 by a A1M (log) pot

Metal Tune extended higher range and optionally shortened lower range (no more drop out of the tune part of the sound in the lower range)
- replace VR58 by a C100K (anti-log) pot
- short R71
- if the drop out of the sound is not wanted in the lowest setting of the pot, disconnect VR58's pin 1 from ground
- then from here if an extended lower range is wanted, connect VR58's pin 1 to ground via a resistor with a value of 1K and invert connector's S and N padss (connected to South and North of R61)

(optional) OH & CH Filter extended lower range and slightly more precise higher range
- replace VR55 and VR56 by C100K (anti-log) pots

CH Decay extended lower range
- add a 15K resistor in parallel with R30 or replace it by a 10K resistor

Note: some Cocteau mods without switch and aiming to make get the 808 original sound on extreme values of pots are a few times changed and hence this will loose the easiness/guarantee to find the original sound (but it should still be somewhere in between).

For the pots, I'm totally sure this will be better for anyone, but about the resistors it is not sure any Yocteau would get the same results (as I have an all-metal-film-resistors Yocto) so maybe this will be needed to find the good value himself.

Effegee, even if I will need to desolder a lot of $0.67 pots, thank you again for making this dream comes true, because it's here in front of me and sounding f***ing good. we're not worthy

Next step: discovering some cymbal and hats mods for the remaining empty slots. waah
goldplate
Here is some cool mod I just discovered for the remaining slots :

OH Filter Resonance
- Unsolder R146
- Wire the 1st or 2nd pin of a B250K pot in serie with a 68K resistor connected to ground and wire the remaining pot's pin to R146's west pad (from Yocto's components point of view)

CH Filter Resonance
- Unsolder R155
- Wire the 1st or 2nd pin of a B250K pot in serie with a 68K resistor connected to ground and wire the remaining pot's pin to R155's east pad (from Yocto's components point of view)

Thanks to the 68K resistor, you get the original sound when you set the pot fully counterclockwise.
goldplate
Another one :

CY, OH & CH Metal / White Noise Balance
- Unsolder R55*
- Wire the 1st pin of an A500K pot to R55*'s North pad with a 22K resistor inbetween
- Wire the 2nd pin of the A500K pot to R55*'s South pad
- Wire the 3rd pin of the A500K pot in serie with a 150K resistor, an optional 1.0 - 2.2nF cap then R130's South pin
- If using a slot where there is a switch, this one could be used to switch between White Noise and an External Input, so it could be put between the 150K resistor and R130's South pin
Remark : this is meant to give the original sound on the pot set fully counterclockwise, but it will remains a very slight level of noise. In my tests, it is not hearable but if it is wanted to be able to recover the very original sound, the switch without anything feeding the External Input could make this possible


I thought about Cymbal Attack Time but it seems that the cymbal sound is 3 parts which each one has its own envelope...
Rxke
applause

I would love to see a picture of your test setup now,
goldplate
No way razz

Damn, I just found this document regarding the 808 cymbal... No excuse anymore we have to find some mods for the cymbal !


EDIT:
The doc suggests to replace R53 (1K) by a pot. After some tests, a B10K seems like the best choice. It makes the cymbal and hats more crunchy in more or less transforming the pitched oscillators in somewhat noise,


So here it is:

Cymbal, Open Hat & Closed Hat Metal Drive
- Unsolder R53 and replace it by a B10K pot (pins 1 & 2) with a 1K resistor in series so you have the original value when the pot is set fully counterclockwise
goldplate
Here is one more :

Cymbal Hit Decay (this control the decay of the more attacky (high pitched) sound part of the cymbal)
- Unsolder R94
- Wire R94's pads to a 100R resistor in serie with the 1st and 2nd pins of a A50K or A100K pot (the more resistance gives the more decay)
- Use the switch to switch between the 100R resistor + pot and a 39K resistor
- If you don't want the attack sound to disappear when the pot is fully counterclockwise (because it's already available with the original Tone pot set fully counterclockwise), replace the 100R resistor by a 200R - 1K resistor


A nice thing I found is to extend the lower range of the original Decay pot :

Cymbal Decay extended lower range and shortened higher range
- Replace R93 by a 56R - 200R resistor, the lower giving a very shy Cymbal hit like can do real drummers in bringing a cymbal in progressively with multiple hits, if this is not wanted while a shorter decay is still wanted, the good value should be around 10K - 100K
goldplate
I finished the RS-CL-2 and MA-2 wirings and noticed I had C124 and C147 bulging, I thought I had odd little caps so I replaced them but the new ones immediately went the same. I measured the voltage going across them and it was -13V and -15V DC so I thought I should reverse their polarity and that did it.

The instruments were sounding good but I found that their levels was way too loud, so I changed the value of their resistors which are wired in serial with their level pots. R296 for 75K and R295 for 100K. But I noticed the difference between accented and not accented steps was not as significant as with the original voice...

For the moment I mounted it in the case and all, it's already very good as it is so it's time to go on something else.
effegee
goldplate wrote:
I finished the RS-CL-2 and MA-2 wirings and noticed I had C124 and C147 bulging.... I measured the voltage going across them and it was -13V and -15V DC so I thought I should reverse their polarity and that did it.


Thanks for reporting. The silkscreen has the poles reversed for both C124 and C147, so solder them in reverse-- the "+" lead goes to "-" and the "-" lead goes to "+". Sorry about that, everyone.
yan6
I'm picking this back up after waiting on some back ordered parts. Looking through my build doc, I found R375 not to be highlighted as installed. I was trying to place it but cant seem to locate it. I'm not sure if I already placed it and forgot to highlight my doc d'oh! any assistance with R375's location.
effegee
yan6 wrote:
any assistance with R375's location.


It's the vertically placed resistor to the right of VR56 and VR58, just below C149.
yan6
Haha sweet applause it was already placed
yan6
w00t I'm like 90% there. Most things seem like their functioning but I get zero joy from my handclap. The maracas seem to work but from the clap I only get a really faint sound (mostly just a click) when I crank up TM3.

not sure if you would rather I post over at e-licktronic forum but I figured they may not be so inclined with the mod being on it.
yan6
Regarding my above post I had to mod the noise section to get anything that seems even close to a clap sound. It's not great but I think it will have to be good enough.

My last issue seems to be with the RS2 and MA2. For some reason I only have sounds from the RS2 and it is triggered on every step. Any quick pointers
KlangGenerator
yan6 wrote:

My last issue seems to be with the RS2 and MA2. For some reason I only have sounds from the RS2 and it is triggered on every step. Any quick pointers


Check if the two cables between MA2 jack and IO-Board are connected to the right points. At least I had mine twisted, resulting in a non working MA2. I also had RS2 triggering on every step. Doing an Eeprom initialization helped. wink
goldplate
The RS-CL-2 MA-2 trig issue is because of the design and/or OS. Then if needed there is a way to convert v-trig / s-trig with a transistor and resistors, as it is already for Trig 1.

Mine has an issue with the clap getting creepy after 30 minutes powered on... I can just power off to get it good again, but it always come back after the delay...
GryphonP3
Just finishing mine up - a couple small questions

C3-6 look like electrolytic silkscreen but the bom mentions film caps. Are those values in the bom correct?

Also, I cant find Q28 for the life of me! All other components are in.. oils someone shine some light? Hahaha

Stoked to finish up and install it!
JanneI
Q28 is missing on silkscreen, check page 9 of the build guide.

BTW, cocteau enclosures... anyone heard anything from Kacper Pawluk? Last email reply for me is from jan 4th and nothing since then. I send my enclosure for a re-paint on oct 2017 (bad quality + switch holes too tight) and this is starting to be a little bit strange. Did I loose my enclosure? Paypal "buyers protection" next? Or what?
KlangGenerator
JanneI wrote:
Q28 is missing on silkscreen, check page 9 of the build guide.

BTW, cocteau enclosures... anyone heard anything from Kacper Pawluk? Last email reply for me is from jan 4th and nothing since then. I send my enclosure for a re-paint on oct 2017 (bad quality + switch holes too tight) and this is starting to be a little bit strange. Did I loose my enclosure? Paypal "buyers protection" next? Or what?


Definately go for buyer protection before it's too late! Never maintain cash savings again

Kacper disappeared without a trace. Very likely he will never ever show up again.
JanneI
KlangGenerator wrote:

Definately go for buyer protection before it's too late! Never maintain cash savings again

Kacper disappeared without a trace. Very likely he will never ever show up again.


So very very strange, since Kacper did send me the postal fee (44eur) via paypal for the re-paint shipping to Poland. Why on earth would he do that if he was not going to finish them? No need, since I payed it initially..
goldplate
For sure he intended to do it. I resent mine to him a while ago and he well shipped it me back with a very better paint job. But who knows... that doesn't mean you will get it or your money back ever.
JanneI
goldplate wrote:
For sure he intended to do it. I resent mine to him a while ago and he well shipped it me back with a very better paint job. But who knows... that doesn't mean you will get it or your money back ever.


Yes. Frankly, I don't even care about the money that much, I'd just like to finish this build.
JanneI
Hi all! I'm trying to finish my build, still a couple of things that I don't get. Was there any schematics available for cocteau mods? It would help a lot trying to figure out all these mods.

What's the idea behind the two switches (SW55 SW56)? Is the yocto trig1 & 2 used for triggering the extra 2 drums on cocteau? For sequencing, I should be able to trigger them with "trig1" or "trig2" selected as an instrument? Audio goes to mix bus and separate 3,5mm jacks?

Thanks!
effegee
JanneI wrote:
Hi all! I'm trying to finish my build, still a couple of things that I don't get. Was there any schematics available for cocteau mods? It would help a lot trying to figure out all these mods.


The PCB was designed as a board layout, not from a schematic file, so there are no schematics provided.

Quote:
What's the idea behind the two switches (SW55 SW56)?


SW55 and SW56 are to switch between RS-2 and CL-2. They are essentially the DPDT switch split into two SPDT switches. If you flip both at the same time, same direction, you flip between RS-2<—>CL-2. Or you can flip them individually to get different sounds. (Watch this video and read the description for details: https://youtu.be/fhbO1tongko )

Quote:
Is the yocto trig1 & 2 used for triggering the extra 2 drums on cocteau? For sequencing, I should be able to trigger them with "trig1" or "trig2" selected as an instrument?


If you follow the instructions in the build doc, sequencing Trig 1 & 2 will play the extra 2 drums on Cocteau, unless you connect an external module to the Trig 1 & 2 jacks, in which case the trig signal will be diverted from the internal drums to the external module(s).

Quote:
Audio goes to mix bus and separate 3,5mm jacks?


Yes, the behavior is the same as the YOCTO individual OUTS. The instrument audio is removed from the mix bus when a plug is in the individual instrument’s jack.
JanneI
Thanks effegee!
the bad producer
Does anyone know if there was ever made available a file for the panel so I could cut my own? Maybe I missed it?!
JanneI
One last thing to solve: Metal Tune doesn't do anything.

DOCs say:
R61* (S) -> left (metal tune S)
R61* (N) -> right (metal tune N)

Looking at schematics, for desoldering reason I tried to change to

R61* (S) -> left (metal tune S)
R60* (S) -> right (metal tune N)

Should this work? I wouldn't want to unmount the sandwich smile

Thanks!
JanneI
EFFEGEE:
I desoldered it, now it's like in the build guide, but still non-functioning. It's really frustrating to troubleshoot when there's no schematics of any kind. Any ideas? Everything else seems to work fine. Thanks!
goldplate
No need for shematics, the mods are really simple, especially this one.
JanneI
goldplate wrote:
No need for shematics, the mods are really simple, especially this one.


EDIT: Opened the sandwich, SW58 middle pad was detached.. Easy fix. Still would prefer those schematics for easier troubleshooting..
Macgyverradio
anyone have a cocteau mod they want to sell? maybe a complete case and kit? email me at gianlucasaggese@gmail.com
JanneI
Hey, where can I find the datasheet of the on-on switches that was provided with the cocteau kit? Thanks!
lasoie
Hello everybody,

I'm starting my cocteau kit and was wondering wich values did you choose for VR 60 to 62 ? As nothing is really explained on the build guide, I thought maybe one of you would have test values himself.
thanks !
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 3
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group