[ORDER] ZeroScope, 6hp scope that's almost not even there

From circuitbending to homebrew stompboxes & synths, keep the DIY spirit alive!

Moderators: Joe., lisa, luketeaford, Kent

Post Reply
User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Fri Oct 06, 2017 3:56 am

antf4rm wrote:
av500 wrote:
antf4rm wrote:Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(
hard to diagnose from here, but a high res photo of the backside might ive a clue
Here's that photo. I removed the 3.3 regulator for replacement as i think it got fried in whatever happened when i plugged a signal into the trigger input. Any insight is appreciated.

Image
hmm, looks all OK to me. can you measure the resistance from the trigger input to GND with a cable plugged? but I don't see how it can fry the regulator. there is a 100k resistor on the trigger input, not much current can flow there.

User avatar
antf4rm
Wiggling with Experience
Posts: 305
Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2014 2:48 pm
Location: chicago

Post by antf4rm » Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:22 am

Resistance from trigger input to GND with cable plugged is 1.1Mohm.
I'm going to get another 3.3v regulator and try to fire it up again.

User avatar
strange tales
Common Wiggler
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:29 am
Location: dirty jerz

Post by strange tales » Sat Oct 07, 2017 5:11 pm

Would I be able to buy a set of the glass or whatever it is to put over my screen? Opening it up I accidentally scattered it across my living room never to be seen again.

Other than that, already love this thing and I'm angry I didn't built it sooner.

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:01 pm

strange tales wrote:Would I be able to buy a set of the glass or whatever it is to put over my screen? Opening it up I accidentally scattered it across my living room never to be seen again.

Other than that, already love this thing and I'm angry I didn't built it sooner.
no problem, PM me your address or send me a mail

User avatar
fuzzbass
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 2051
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:08 pm
Location: Florida, USA

Post by fuzzbass » Sat Oct 21, 2017 8:46 am

Late to the party but just got my Zeroscope running! Amazing deal this is, and I'm so happy it has free running and frequency measurement/tuning mode. Thanks so much for this!

This is a good intro project for someone just getting into SMD construction. The circuit is simple and easy to troubleshoot. All the innards are really in the code, and my processor came pre-installed and flashed.
Wired for weird

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Sat Oct 21, 2017 12:54 pm

fuzzbass wrote:Late to the party but just got my Zeroscope running! Amazing deal this is, and I'm so happy it has free running and frequency measurement/tuning mode. Thanks so much for this!

This is a good intro project for someone just getting into SMD construction. The circuit is simple and easy to troubleshoot. All the innards are really in the code, and my processor came pre-installed and flashed.
thanks! enjoy! :)

metabaron24
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:14 am

Post by metabaron24 » Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:01 am

I'm really new at this game, so I need to ask one of these questions that probably everyone takes for granted as I couldn't find anyone asking it in 14 pages of thread. I'm compiling parts for the Zscope and buiding courage to build it.

Here goes:
I understand that for the power connection a 16pin to 16pin cable is required (as opposed to 10pin to 16pin). Does that imply that it reads or even sends CV and gate signals from/on the busboard?

:help:

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:05 am

metabaron24 wrote:I'm really new at this game, so I need to ask one of these questions that probably everyone takes for granted as I couldn't find anyone asking it in 14 pages of thread. I'm compiling parts for the Zscope and buiding courage to build it.

Here goes:
I understand that for the power connection a 16pin to 16pin cable is required (as opposed to 10pin to 16pin). Does that imply that it reads or even sends CV and gate signals from/on the busboard?

:help:
Hi,

no it does not read the CV/gate signals, nor does it use the 5V - actually I don't remember any more why I put a 16 pin power connector there :) you can of course solder only a 2x5 if you want...

metabaron24
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:14 am

Post by metabaron24 » Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:08 am

Thanks! That's what I call a fast response. :hyper:

User avatar
Multi Grooves
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1535
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:57 pm

Post by Multi Grooves » Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:31 am

I've never done any smd. Has anyone here done this build as their first and how long did it take you? How much less reading did it take? Etc...
...but Cynthia, my Daddy never had a heath kit..

User avatar
fuzzbass
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 2051
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:08 pm
Location: Florida, USA

Post by fuzzbass » Sat Dec 16, 2017 9:09 am

Multi Grooves wrote:I've never done any smd. Has anyone here done this build as their first and how long did it take you? How much less reading did it take? Etc...
This project is a good staring point for SMD. There is not a lot of it, board comes with a pre-programmed MCU. 0805 not 0603! Decent documentation. It can be done with a soldering wand. I probably spent 90 minutes on this but I have smd specific tools (paste dispenser, hot air station - if you don't have these things then at minimum get a no clean flux pen and use no clean solder wire .031 or thinner). It might take longer with basic tools. I didn't read anything except the BOM and user manual.

Get some magnification.

THE trick with smd is limiting the amount of solder going on. If you end up in the situation where you need to remove excessive solder, things get hairy because the tiny pads are easy to lift.

Also, if you use paste I strongly recommend you use lead free. You don't want those tiny beads of waste to contain lead.
Wired for weird

User avatar
Multi Grooves
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1535
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2013 7:57 pm

Post by Multi Grooves » Sat Dec 16, 2017 11:50 am

Cheers for coming back to me. I did invest in an SMD iron...but no experience of using it.

Are these to be ordered directly from manufacturer- I couldn't find anything on Thonk?
...but Cynthia, my Daddy never had a heath kit..

metabaron24
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:14 am

Post by metabaron24 » Sat Dec 16, 2017 11:54 am

Are these to be ordered directly from manufacturer- I couldn't find anything on Thonk?
Absolutely. It's in the first page of this thread.

User avatar
cannonball swandive
Veteran Wiggler
Posts: 658
Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:24 am

Regulator

Post by cannonball swandive » Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:13 am

Is there an alternative for the LD1117S33TR? Can’t find it in stock anywhere.

User avatar
Altitude909
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3302
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:13 pm
Location: Meesheegan

Re: Regulator

Post by Altitude909 » Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:39 am

cannonball swandive wrote:Is there an alternative for the LD1117S33TR? Can’t find it in stock anywhere.
LM1117MPX-3.3/NOPB

User avatar
cannonball swandive
Veteran Wiggler
Posts: 658
Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:24 am

Post by cannonball swandive » Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:50 am

Thanks!

metabaron24
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:14 am

Post by metabaron24 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:24 am

So I built mine. SMD is scary but I had some help and teaching for part of the build. But no luck for me. Nothing happens at all. It doesn't even power on, screen stays dark. :waah:
Plus it quickly develops heat in the region between the screen and the first encoder. Hope I haven't already fried anything when I had it connnected to power for two minutes or so.

I will take my time troubleshooting. My first idea is this:
In the BOM it says: Diode D3 only needed to power from debug header. I didn't really know what to make of that and installed D3 as well as the debug header. Can that be the problem? Does it expect a different power source now? If I intend to power it from my Doepfer A100 DIY supply, do I have to take out D3?

I really don't understand a whole lot of electronics, and just thought I'd give it a go. Now is the time for learning :mrgreen:

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:30 am

metabaron24 wrote:So I built mine. SMD is scary but I had some help and teaching for part of the build. But no luck for me. Nothing happens at all. It doesn't even power on, screen stays dark. :waah:
Plus it quickly develops heat in the region between the screen and the first encoder. Hope I haven't already fried anything when I had it connnected to power for two minutes or so.

I will take my time troubleshooting. My first idea is this:
In the BOM it says: Diode D3 only needed to power from debug header. I didn't really know what to make of that and installed D3 as well as the debug header. Can that be the problem? Does it expect a different power source now? If I intend to power it from my Doepfer A100 DIY supply, do I have to take out D3?

I really don't understand a whole lot of electronics, and just thought I'd give it a go. Now is the time for learning :mrgreen:
installing D3 and the debug header is fine, that does not change normal operation. heat in that region is most likely the 3.3V regulator, so I fear you have a short to GND on the 3.3V line somewhere. if you have a multimeter, please measure the resistance to GND. between the 3V3 test point and GND and also between the VDDA test point and GND.

Also posting a high res image of the back here might let me spot the error.

metabaron24
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 21
Joined: Sat Oct 28, 2017 11:14 am

Post by metabaron24 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:41 am

Thanks for yet another superquick answer. I will test that and get back to you, it's good to have a first line of enquiry.

One more question: my PCB came not only with R12, R14, C31 and IC7 preinstalled -like it says in the BOM- but also C6 and C9 in that same region around IC7. Is that what it was supposed to be like? (It gave me a bit of a shock when two caps were left over and then I realized what was going on :hmm: :doh: )

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:42 am

metabaron24 wrote:Thanks for yet another superquick answer. I will test that and get back to you, it's good to have a first line of enquiry.

One more question: my PCB came not only with R12, R14, C31 and IC7 preinstalled -like it says in the BOM- but also C6 and C9 in that same region around IC7. Is that what it was supposed to be like? (It gave me a bit of a shock when two caps were left over and then I realized what was going on :hmm: :doh: )
yes. I need to update the wording in the build guide. sorry for the confusion :)

User avatar
fuzzbass
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 2051
Joined: Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:08 pm
Location: Florida, USA

Post by fuzzbass » Sun Dec 31, 2017 1:27 pm

metabaron24 wrote:So I built mine. SMD is scary but I had some help and teaching for part of the build. But no luck for me. Nothing happens at all. It doesn't even power on, screen stays dark. :waah:
Plus it quickly develops heat in the region between the screen and the first encoder. Hope I haven't already fried anything when I had it connnected to power for two minutes or so.

I will take my time troubleshooting. My first idea is this:
In the BOM it says: Diode D3 only needed to power from debug header. I didn't really know what to make of that and installed D3 as well as the debug header. Can that be the problem? Does it expect a different power source now? If I intend to power it from my Doepfer A100 DIY supply, do I have to take out D3?

I really don't understand a whole lot of electronics, and just thought I'd give it a go. Now is the time for learning :mrgreen:
My bet is on a short between the +3.3V regulator's output and ground. LDO regulators seem to have built in short protection, they just drop their output voltage, warm up a bit and wait for the problem to get sorted out. Check the decoupling caps (C1, C9, C10, C25, C26, C31) on the +3.3V power rail to see if any have a solder bridge underneath. Its usually apparent under magnification.
Wired for weird

LetterBeacon
Wiggling with Experience
Posts: 290
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2009 1:35 pm
Location: London, UK

Post by LetterBeacon » Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:10 am

This looks like an awesome project! Do you think the frequency counter/ tuner is accurate enough to calibrate a VCO?

zombierock123
Learning to Wiggle
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:57 am
Location: manchester, uk

Post by zombierock123 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:40 am

Just wondering if there's a minimum post count to be able to order one of these kits? Looks awesome!

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:41 am

zombierock123 wrote:Just wondering if there's a minimum post count to be able to order one of these kits? Looks awesome!
no, just email me :) vp (at) vpme (dot) de

User avatar
av500
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 1719
Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:11 am
Contact:

Post by av500 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:42 am

LetterBeacon wrote:This looks like an awesome project! Do you think the frequency counter/ tuner is accurate enough to calibrate a VCO?
I have one customer using it on stage in triple tuner mode all the time, tuning his (drifting) VCOs between songs.

Post Reply

Return to “Music Tech DIY”