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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

New Buchla 208 PCBs
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next [all]
Author New Buchla 208 PCBs
beautyofdecay_
That's looking great. Looking forward to this.
Definitely going to build this one. Although I have a 208r rev1 I would love to have the extra functionality of the toolbox!
papz
Thanks guys.

The PCBs should be available as long as people want to buy them, so no queue or preorder are needed.
Doublecoolbossman
Can anyone give me an idea of how much I'd end up spending on parts to stuff these?
papz
Say in the €1000 range as a rough estimate, with a quite large margin depending on whether you'll buy parts for this project only or in bulk (100 resistors cost 1.20 but 1 only costs 0.10 or more), on the suppliers (online Asian sellers are cheaper than the shop around the corner), on the shipping costs (all parts are not available from a single supplier), on your skills (risk of damage or wrong mounting while soldering) etc...

Check the 208r rev2 and rev2.1 build threads for more details.
papz
Hi and Happy New Year

I'm happy to offer a few sets at discount price. nanners
PCBs are error free and fully working, the exact same ones as the ones used for the 208 shown above.
They just don't have 2 very small improvements mentioned for the coming ones : dedicated reverb shielded cable pads on board 12 and trimpots wiper extra hole, but that's really a small detail and won't upset the build in any way.

260€ for a PCB set
440€ for a PCB set + HQ panel + reverb frame
Shipping included

Hurry up, it's a limited offer !

http://www.portabellabz.be/208pcb.html
clipper
I'm very interested, but as a newbie, I'm not sure if this is the right project to begin with.. This would be the first synth I'd build, what you guys think - is it possible? hmmm.....
papz
I wouldn't recommend this project to begin with.
The build itself could be ok if done thoroughly and slowly but in case of problem troubleshooting can be difficult, a look at the 208r build threads will give you an idea of the kind of issues builders have to deal with.

You could buy a set to enjoy the low price and keep it for later though.
You'd start the build when you have more SDIY experience with simpler projects.
darmklacht@gmail.com
thats cool! good luck with this...
papz
Thanks Guinness ftw!
Zifor
Will this work with the BEMI programmer?
papz
These PCBs are able to power the BEMI iProgram card (thanks to the +5V rail connection added to the edge connector) and the pinout is compatible.
So the answer is yes but some own features of the BEMI Easel such as the MO hi/lo range or midi won't work since are not implemented on these PCBs.

This question has been addressed in this topic a.o.
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=187099&highlight=
Maybe more iProgram owners can share their experience ?
pathein
hi papz, am wondering,

for the promo pcb, is there a work around for card12 without the dedicated pad for the shielded reverb cable or the bleeding issue of the mo can be reduced/eliminated with ptp wiring as long using shielded cable?
papz
No special work needed, please find pics and details in the build notes, it's easy.
http://www.portabellabz.be/images/208/208%20build%20notes.pdf

The dedicated pads will just make this even easier and clearer (I tend to be a bit perfectionist oops ).
pathein
cool, thanks for the info!
clipper
Hi papz,
thanks for the reply and for being honest! I'll do some more research and take a look on the other threads. I'm still very interested though thumbs up

papz wrote:
I wouldn't recommend this project to begin with.
The build itself could be ok if done thoroughly and slowly but in case of problem troubleshooting can be difficult, a look at the 208r build threads will give you an idea of the kind of issues builders have to deal with.

You could buy a set to enjoy the low price and keep it for later though.
You'd start the build when you have more SDIY experience with simpler projects.
papz
You're welcome.
My aim is to offer the service I'd like to receive. wink
delayed
Will the old siddarthianinnovations panels fit these? Or Romans panels work?
papz
Yes, the PCBs are 100% compatible with all these panels.

That said, I find it a pity to mount such a nice instrument behind such an awful panel. Dead Banana
papz
Here's a FAQ w00t

http://www.portabellabz.be/208pcbfaq.html
Cablebasher
Hey Papz

Do you have the BOM as a spreadsheet in order to load into mouser or is it just a matter of copying the details for each card from Romans PDF?

Looking forward to the pcbs and panel coming available.
bemerritt
Cablebasher wrote:
Hey Papz

Do you have the BOM as a spreadsheet in order to load into mouser or is it just a matter of copying the details for each card from Romans PDF?

Looking forward to the pcbs and panel coming available.


What you can do, is get a trial of adobe to export the PDF as a spreadsheet, that you can then import into mouser. Somewhere I found a google doc that had compiled all the cards, 212, and 218 Bom's. I would most certainly double check it, but it could help. PM if you want.
pathein
while going through the BOM, a lot of the resistors used for the motherboard/cards are in the 5% tolerance range,

Was wondering if putting the cost of the resistors aside, will using all 1% resistors make a bigger difference/improvement when comes to calibration, performance and sound?
tarandfeathers
pathein wrote:
while going through the BOM, a lot of the resistors used for the motherboard/cards are in the 5% tolerance range,

Was wondering if putting the cost of the resistors aside, will using all 1% resistors make a bigger difference/improvement when comes to calibration, performance and sound?


Some people believe that using parts with a wider tolerance range is required to invoke whatever magic they think is contained in old electronics. I built my 208 with all 1% parts, low drift C0G ceramics, and so on. I am very happy. I use it almost exclusively for pitched material so stability and accuracy are more important to me than witchcraft. YMMV.
pathein
tarandfeathers wrote:

Some people believe that using parts with a wider tolerance range is required to invoke whatever magic they think is contained in old electronics. I built my 208 with all 1% parts, low drift C0G ceramics, and so on. I am very happy. I use it almost exclusively for pitched material so stability and accuracy are more important to me than witchcraft. YMMV.


good insight! I actually prefer using 1% tolerance for most of my sdiy build. Will probably change to lower tolerance parts for the passive stuff, unless there's some specific reason for using certain parts only
papz
Cablebasher wrote:
Do you have the BOM as a spreadsheet in order to load into mouser or is it just a matter of copying the details for each card from Romans PDF?

No
The reason is I have plenty of parts in my own stock and use these, not necessarily coming from Mouser.
Maybe a builder will do a Mouser project and share it, but I won't, I have more important work pending and anyone is able to do a Mouser project from a BOM.

Cablebasher wrote:
Looking forward to the pcbs and panel coming available.

A few PCBs and panels are available now, at discount price : http://www.portabellabz.be/208pcb.html
2 PCB-panel-reverb frame bundles are still available at the time of writing.

pathein wrote:
while going through the BOM, a lot of the resistors used for the motherboard/cards are in the 5% tolerance range,

Was wondering if putting the cost of the resistors aside, will using all 1% resistors make a bigger difference/improvement when comes to calibration, performance and sound?

5% means a 100k resistor's value will be between 95k and 105k.
1% means it will be between 99k and 101k. In some cases, it's important to have precise resistors, in other ones use 5% is ok. I think Don Buchla knew what he was doing. Also, in the 70s, 1% were much more expensive than 5%. Today the price is the same.
On the motherboard 120k 1% for the sequencer sliders should help reduce the difference between the sliders CV at same setting, but this won't compensate for the slider's own tolerance. Anyway, I adjust the sliders by ear, not visually.
1% can be used everywhere as tarandfeather wrote.
I find the color stripes code on carbon film easier to read than on metal films, which eases troubleshooting in case of wrong value, but that's probably a matter of habit.
Some people also believe that carbon film resistors sound warmer and metal film sound colder, or that golden legs components sound richer and NOS parts sound more vintage or more musical, or that the µA726 affects an oscillator's sound and timbre, or that the "mojo dust" in an old tube amps is an essential part of its so-called amazing sound. That's their problem. hihi
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