I looked at some, most seemed less ideal than the violin case, but really im completely open to suggestion. just trying to see if anyone has really come up with any good solution. Sadly, not hearing anyone chime in makes me think no one really has come up with anything and I should just spend the extra money for an Elite because it is made to traveldesolationjones wrote:How about a saxophone case?damase wrote:No good solutions? I was wondering about retro fitting a violin case or shotgun case to fit the skiff in sideways(allowing room for pre-patch). Like one of these...damase wrote:Anyone figure out a solid way to transport these skiffs patched up? I really like the slim look, but without a lid i'm not too keen on just using a gig bag. I've been looking around and hard cases of the right size are few and far between
Seems like it would be better protection than the theremin case which looks more like a bag. Shame no one makes a case like these with just the skiff rectangle built out in the middle rather than a violin shape. The extra $300 for an Elite skiff seems steep when I like the look of the MN skiff, but then again it may be worth it if it relieves the travel-protection headache. Difficult decision there...
New Make Noise powered or unpowered skiff
Moderators: Kent, lisa, luketeaford, Joe.
thanks for the picture, that is a wonderful fit there. I have the IJ 7u and gig bag, and i love it very much. However the 7u has a lid... where MN skiff does not have a lid and im after real protection for the modules.
Im still considering options, but if i go the MN skiff route i think ill just get a pelican 1555 to go with it... but then i'm wondering if patched inside will put stress on the jacks from the cabling with no lid.... hmmm
Im still considering options, but if i go the MN skiff route i think ill just get a pelican 1555 to go with it... but then i'm wondering if patched inside will put stress on the jacks from the cabling with no lid.... hmmm
Skiffer
Thinking about buying this Ladik cable
Extension power cable, 1x 16pin female, 3x 16pin male, 20cm
I guess it should work if I don’t exceed power consumption.
I want to cram 13 modules in mine + 1 passive one.
http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/668662
Extension power cable, 1x 16pin female, 3x 16pin male, 20cm
I guess it should work if I don’t exceed power consumption.
I want to cram 13 modules in mine + 1 passive one.
http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/668662
deadlyfriendly wrote:Saw one of these in person last night and it is indeed sleek and solid.
Had a question about power, I'd probably pick up the powered version, but is there an easy way to get more than 10 modules connected? I like the idea of putting all my larger control modules in here but would also like the option to cram every tiny module in here to make a little versatile synth for couch wiggling...
"C’est l’histoire d’un homme qui tombe d’un immeuble de cinquante étages. Le mec, au fur et à mesure de sa chute il se répète sans cesse pour se rassurer : jusqu’ici tout va bien, jusqu’ici tout va bien, jusqu’ici tout va bien.
Mais l'important n’est pas la chute, c’est l’atterrissage."
Mais l'important n’est pas la chute, c’est l’atterrissage."
- BenignToxicity
- Common Wiggler
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:42 pm
- Location: New York
I'm currently running three MN skiffs and am thinking of eliminating the three power blocks with a single supply of sufficient capacity. The connections are easy... getting a single power supply to multiple skiffs is a simple wiring job... BUT running a single MN supply to multiple skiffs may be fraught with problems due to the capacity of the standard supply and the power usage for each skiff. Check your total power consumption (Modular grid is helpful) and then compare that to the capacity of the MN brick (mine are 15v, 2.67amps... nominally 40w supplies). My own system usage is listed as a total of over 2 amps. You need to allow for start up power surges and stuff. Personally, I would not be happy running a power supply at much more than 50% of its nominal capacity (in my case, around 1.4amps)... I'd be tempted to get a third-party 90w supply... but I will defer to those that know far more about this power stuff than I do!
I was thinking a beefier supply would run multiples but they emailed me back saying not to do it. I like the idea of upgrading all their boards and doing a bit of routing when I eventually get a 3rd. Do you have yours together in some kind of rack?BenignToxicity wrote:I'm currently running three MN skiffs and am thinking of eliminating the three power blocks with a single supply of sufficient capacity. The connections are easy... getting a single power supply to multiple skiffs is a simple wiring job... BUT running a single MN supply to multiple skiffs may be fraught with problems due to the capacity of the standard supply and the power usage for each skiff. Check your total power consumption (Modular grid is helpful) and then compare that to the capacity of the MN brick (mine are 15v, 2.67amps... nominally 40w supplies). My own system usage is listed as a total of over 2 amps. You need to allow for start up power surges and stuff. Personally, I would not be happy running a power supply at much more than 50% of its nominal capacity (in my case, around 1.4amps)... I'd be tempted to get a third-party 90w supply... but I will defer to those that know far more about this power stuff than I do!
- BenignToxicity
- Common Wiggler
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:42 pm
- Location: New York
I have contacted MN about both rack-mounting the skiffs with end cheeks and power supply options. Their answer has always been, "don't do it". I understand this from a corporate and liability point of view, but it's less than helpful. So... with nothing you do... you're on your own... and that's OK.
Here's a picture of my rack end cheeks. It's worth noting that the fixing can be done via the lower screws on the bottom of the skiff. I re-ran the power so it comes out at the back via a cut-out in the end cheek (so it wasn't pinched).
[/img]
Here's a picture of my rack end cheeks. It's worth noting that the fixing can be done via the lower screws on the bottom of the skiff. I re-ran the power so it comes out at the back via a cut-out in the end cheek (so it wasn't pinched).
[/img]-
medium Rob
- Wiggling with Experience
- Posts: 346
- Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2017 2:40 pm
Decksaver would seem like a reasonable solution, if there was a large enough demand (like that for the Tiptop Mantis) - but the lid height / depth would have to be at least a few inches to accommodate patched cables.. it might appear excessively talldamase wrote:thanks for the picture, that is a wonderful fit there. I have the IJ 7u and gig bag, and i love it very much. However the 7u has a lid... where MN skiff does not have a lid and im after real protection for the modules.
Im still considering options, but if i go the MN skiff route i think ill just get a pelican 1555 to go with it... but then i'm wondering if patched inside will put stress on the jacks from the cabling with no lid.... hmmm
There is no problem finding a power supply with enough capacity to run many active bus boards, but it would require impractically large wiring to connect them together without having voltage differences between them that would cause difficulties:emojiseq wrote:I was thinking a beefier supply would run multiples but they emailed me back saying not to do it. I like the idea of upgrading all their boards and doing a bit of routing when I eventually get a 3rd.BenignToxicity wrote:I'm currently running three MN skiffs and am thinking of eliminating the three power blocks with a single supply of sufficient capacity. The connections are easy... getting a single power supply to multiple skiffs is a simple wiring job... BUT running a single MN supply to multiple skiffs may be fraught with problems due to the capacity of the standard supply and the power usage for each skiff. Check your total power consumption (Modular grid is helpful) and then compare that to the capacity of the MN brick (mine are 15v, 2.67amps... nominally 40w supplies). My own system usage is listed as a total of over 2 amps. You need to allow for start up power surges and stuff. Personally, I would not be happy running a power supply at much more than 50% of its nominal capacity (in my case, around 1.4amps)... I'd be tempted to get a third-party 90w supply... but I will defer to those that know far more about this power stuff than I do!
http://mungo.com.au/euroPower0v.html
Using multiple smaller power bricks will provide the best result with the make noise power system.
- chuckleone
- Common Wiggler
- Posts: 137
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2018 3:23 pm
Has anyone found a dust cover solution for this skiff? I've looked at Decksaver and Creme Caffe but nether have anything listed. Is anyone else making something that will fit?
Current rack: https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/736172
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chuckleone/
Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/chuckleone
Twitter: https://twitter.com/ChuckLeone
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chuckleone/
Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/chuckleone
Twitter: https://twitter.com/ChuckLeone
-
KingVidiot
- Learning to Wiggle
- Posts: 20
- Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 9:26 pm
- Location: Silicon Valley, CA
I was poking around Guitar Center and discovered the best/cheap choice:
a Meinl cajon bag for $27
- padded stiff sides and floor
- length just right (flexible side walls)
- plenty of internal vertical space to leave patch cables in situ
- extra room on either side of the skiff inside for controllers, cables, and
power supply, etc.
(I can fit my Xkey 37, Roli blocks, and Arturia Keystep all at once)
The theremin bag is cool but way discontinued, and the other bags/cases that fit are at least triple this cost. :-)
Good luck out there...
a Meinl cajon bag for $27
- padded stiff sides and floor
- length just right (flexible side walls)
- plenty of internal vertical space to leave patch cables in situ
- extra room on either side of the skiff inside for controllers, cables, and
power supply, etc.
(I can fit my Xkey 37, Roli blocks, and Arturia Keystep all at once)
The theremin bag is cool but way discontinued, and the other bags/cases that fit are at least triple this cost. :-)
Good luck out there...
- Attachments
-
- meinl cajon bag.jpg (329.16 KiB) Viewed 197 times
-
- meinl cajon bag2.jpg (282.92 KiB) Viewed 206 times
- behndy
- Super Deluxe Wiggler
- Posts: 1655
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2013 12:05 am
- Location: East Bay, Cali
- Contact:
jia. i ordered that Cajon bag, and while it's a decent soft bag (not an amaaaaaazing amount of protection, but should be fine as a carry-on?), i TOTALLY misread your post. it's HUGE. at least in comparison to the MN Skiff.
ordered the Intellijel 4u bag. looks perfect.
ordered the Intellijel 4u bag. looks perfect.
music, noise, in progress silliness - http://www.youtube.com/c/behndy
Plus one. I really want a minimal travel skiff, significantly smaller than my Move 104, something I can fit into a backpack. This would do for a skiff, but I've already had to send a Mother 32 back to the factory to replace a jack so I'm loathe to have the modules exposed. I don't care about keeping cables plugged in. It's probably better not to so as to save space.chuckleone wrote:Has anyone found a dust cover solution for this skiff? I've looked at Decksaver and Creme Caffe but nether have anything listed. Is anyone else making something that will fit?



