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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

the DIY cases thread!
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 96, 97, 98, 99  Next [all]
Author the DIY cases thread!
cptnal
conscious wrote:
i found a saw and finished that case:



applause
Robert McLeod
I learned synthesis on an ARP 2600 and often wanted to add functions; I got my chance when I located a TTSH in need of a proper case.



ModularGrid rack of non-TTSH modules
Skilling
I’ve made a new box to my Mantis case, with a ”little” help from a friend. Super satisfied.


intafon
Has anyone used an old Univac for a modular synth case? eek!

pulplogic
intafon wrote:
Has anyone used an old Univac for a modular synth case? eek!
[img]https://images.computerhistory.org/revonline/images/102667576p-03 -01.jpg?w=600[/img]


That would be awesome, but I wouldn't want to move it.
intafon
pulplogic wrote:
intafon wrote:
Has anyone used an old Univac for a modular synth case? eek!
[img]https://images.computerhistory.org/revonline/images/102667576p-03 -01.jpg?w=600[/img]


That would be awesome, but I wouldn't want to move it.


No kidding! That style of old metal desk was immensely heavy...
Rex Coil 7
Robert McLeod wrote:
I learned synthesis on an ARP 2600 and often wanted to add functions; I got my chance when I located a TTSH in need of a proper case.



ModularGrid rack of non-TTSH modules
Very well done. Quite clever!

cool
miminashi
I got a funky drawn aluminum case (made by Zero) at surplus, which is a cube 11" on a side, with a hinged lid 3.5" deep and a 7.5" main compartment. Each side could accommodate two 52HP rows pretty comfortably, with plenty of space (well, too much space) for power and such.

I'm thinking that the main compartment could be recessed enough to allow the case to close when patched. Is there a good rule of thumb for spacing between two halves of a clamshell-style case like this? I'm thinking maybe 3 inches or so?
shred
miminashi wrote:
I got a funky drawn aluminum case (made by Zero) at surplus, which is a cube 11" on a side, with a hinged lid 3.5" deep and a 7.5" main compartment. Each side could accommodate two 52HP rows pretty comfortably, with plenty of space (well, too much space) for power and such.

I'm thinking that the main compartment could be recessed enough to allow the case to close when patched. Is there a good rule of thumb for spacing between two halves of a clamshell-style case like this? I'm thinking maybe 3 inches or so?


3 inches is probably enough clearance so that knobs don't hit. would have to be a little more if you have a joystick.
re: closing while patched, if you use stack cables keep that in mind, as well as your pcb clearance behind the faceplates.
pulplogic
miminashi wrote:
I got a funky drawn aluminum case (made by Zero) at surplus, which is a cube 11" on a side, with a hinged lid 3.5" deep and a 7.5" main compartment. Each side could accommodate two 52HP rows pretty comfortably, with plenty of space (well, too much space) for power and such.

I'm thinking that the main compartment could be recessed enough to allow the case to close when patched. Is there a good rule of thumb for spacing between two halves of a clamshell-style case like this? I'm thinking maybe 3 inches or so?


That sounds awesome. SlayerBadger!

I love seeing Halliburton Zero case conversions! They feel retro and futuristic at the same time (timeless). I have a little industrial Halliburton case from I believe the 40’s that I’m about to convert.
shred
on the topic of Halliburton Zero's hihi
put this together with heavy inspiration from -> Easel cases

Added the vinyl bumper recently and it really "tied the whole room together".
Not super thrilled with the power jack situation (at the top left of internal case). May cut out a window directly above it to feed the power cable in. The extra space fits my CV.OCD and format jumbler box.

Frame sits in the lid to take advantage of the extra space for closing patched, and the joystick.

pulplogic
shred wrote:
on the topic of Halliburton Zero's hihi


That looks fantastic!

Do you insert the hinge ping when you transport? I’m thinking about the best ways to work with the piano hinge. On one case I removed the piano hinge and added aluminum strips so I could add a lift-off style hinge. But more recently I have made two pull pins and insert one on each side.

shred
pulplogic wrote:

That looks fantastic!

Do you insert the hinge ping when you transport? I’m thinking about the best ways to work with the piano hinge. On one case I removed the piano hinge and added aluminum strips so I could add a lift-off style hinge. But more recently I have made two pull pins and insert one on each side.


Thanks!

Just realized this is in the Euro section, sorry! Hopefully others will find it helpful regardless of the bananas smile

I was fully expecting the pin to be a pain to get out but it was the exact opposite; popped right out in less than 15 sec. I can actually re-insert the pin for closing, I just flipped it around from it's original orientation. Got very lucky with this one.

A previous case I was using for Euro, hardshell aluminum "photography" case, had a similar piano hinge and that pin took a LONG time to get out. I managed to find an ever-so-slightly smaller diameter sized metal rod from a local hardware store and used that to close it. I bent the edge, similar to your solution, but not nearly as nice looking lol The length of the new pin helped keep the friction tight so it wouldn't fall out... but I really like your idea of double sided, smaller pins. Again, a more elegant solution!
intafon
I fashioned one out of an old samsonite case — I ended up adding 2 removable type hinges. This has the added benefit of not having a potentially easy-to-lose pin as well... :-)
BlinkyLights
intafon wrote:
Has anyone used an old Univac for a modular synth case? eek!



No, but I'd like to. smile
pekbro
My dad worked on Univac 1 while at Franklin Life. It took up an entire room.
2 weeks before he started there, Ross Perot went round the office seeking
$500 investments to start Blue Cross (iirc). He didn’t need anymore money
by the time my dad went to work there. 2 weeks earlier and my life would
have turned out very differently, no doubt.
BlinkyLights
intafon wrote:
Has anyone used an old Univac for a modular synth case? eek!



I got excited by the idea for a moment. Then my dreams were crushed. Apparently only 52 were ever made, and only 46 of those were ever delivered, so they are quite rare.

Bummer.
2disbetter
intafon wrote:
pulplogic wrote:
intafon wrote:
Has anyone used an old Univac for a modular synth case? eek!
[img]https://images.computerhistory.org/revonline/images/102667576p-03 -01.jpg?w=600[/img]


That would be awesome, but I wouldn't want to move it.


No kidding! That style of old metal desk was immensely heavy...


Probably enough metal in that desk to build a car. hihi

Still that would spectacular to see, should someone make something like it into a modular synth desk.
DEEMARKAY
Nothing to brag about, but maybe a possibility to cheaply get a case:
At my local hardware store (Hellweg in Germany) you can get overpriced, yet still very cheap scrap wood from them cut to size for free. So you go there, pick a piece of scrap for a Euro or two and give them a cut list.
The PSU is from a CD-Player I found in the street. I still have to see how much power it will be able to deliver on the rails, but so far it didn't have problems with the modules connected and vice versa.
Powerrail is just a strip of veroboard with the tracks buffed up with some solder for better current handling.


DDJ
I couldn't find a suitable one so, I built a DIY stand for my DIY suitcase/MN skiff stack.

It ain't pretty but it serves the purpose perfectly.

I wanted something that could make my suitcase more ergonomic. It needed to be sturdy enough to handle the Make Noise skiff stacked on the top case(done with a ratchet set).

disclaimer;home depot didn't have skill saws to rent so I had to use a jig saw(not great for straight cuts lol)
proxemics
I believe that all modular cases should be made of nice wood, but I also wanted an interesting and curved design. I liked the 252 design, but I wanted more rugged hinges and a different way of standing it up. I need to do another post before I can upload pictures, so coming up...[/img]
proxemics
This is a first design; I hope to iterate it. 6mm marine-grade Okume ply, lasercut, with a lot of finishing bits and bobs, definitely not for someone who hasn't laid up and glued wood before.
proxemics
I believe that all modular cases should be made of nice wood, but I also wanted an interesting and curved design. I liked the 252 design, but I wanted more rugged hinges and a different way of standing it up.

This is a first design; I hope to iterate it. 6mm marine-grade Okume ply, lasercut, with a lot of finishing bits and bobs, definitely not for someone who hasn't laid up and glued wood before.

I probably made it too deep -- it will take about 80cm deep modules iirc, but I have some nice thicc Ladiks that I like a lot, and I don't trust the scramble to skifs. I think it does exceed some airline max cabin sizes by about 3cm, so I think a future iteration would be a bit more lean. Still, it fits in tiny overheads without a problem, the Virgin luggage size test box had quite a bit of room to maneuver. It's flown from Madeira to Switzerland to the UK to Zimbabwe and it's a pleasure to travel with. No problems in airports yet!



proxemics
Some design pics. Wanted it to look like an angry robot when closed.

Thanks to Nathan Thompson for his designs that I used as the basis for the boxes.


justscratch
love the overhead bin picture

did you have a backup plan if for some reason they asked you to check your case?
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