DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

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EvanLang
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Post by EvanLang » Thu Jul 18, 2019 2:03 am

It's alive!!!Image

collumn2016
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Marbles Calibration

Post by collumn2016 » Tue Jul 30, 2019 12:14 pm

Hi, built marbles awhile back and eventually sorted out my problems with your guys help!

Reason for post is my uncertainty in whether or not i have calibrated my marbles correctly. I used the guide provide by forestcaver https://github.com/forestcaver/Marbles-panel

I tried the method but i am not very confident it has worked correctly. I was confused by the process and wonder if anyone could do a video or talk me through what i should be looking for at each step. I am okay with the volt/oct setup using 1 and 3volts.

When i turn the pots looking for close to 1 or close to 3 i am unsure if over 1 or over 3 counts as these values are not seen in the files provided. It seems kind of arbitrary at times (obviously my lack of understanding of the process) where the 1 volt or 3 on the volt/oct is quite discrete and easy to achieve.

Could anyone explain to me why the calibration by forestcaver takes the form it does? Or how the spreadsheet formula is derived.

Thanks

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forestcaver
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Re: Marbles Calibration

Post by forestcaver » Wed Jul 31, 2019 2:35 am

collumn2016 wrote: Reason for post is my uncertainty in whether or not i have calibrated my marbles correctly.

When i turn the pots looking for close to 1 or close to 3 i am unsure if over 1 or over 3 counts as these values are not seen in the files provided. It seems kind of arbitrary at times (obviously my lack of understanding of the process) where the 1 volt or 3 on the volt/oct is quite discrete and easy to achieve.

Could anyone explain to me why the calibration by forestcaver takes the form it does? Or how the spreadsheet formula is derived.

Thanks
Outputting 1v and 3v - those knob and button settings tell marbles to output octaves so you set the knobs to get marbles to think it is outputting exactly 1v and 3v. You then measure the error.

The calibration takes the form it does for several reasons:
1. You need to calibrate the module, otherwise it is pretty useless as a quantised sequencer
2, MI didnt expose the calibration in the user interface. I believe because there were a lot of support calls and very few people have voltmeters of the required precision and accuracy.
3. I’m lazy and only really care about diying a few personal modules and this was a quick easy hack to get my modules calibrated
4. A more general purpose calibration routine would be to either use the serial port and drive the factory calibration code directly via some wrapper harness program (I actually did this when experimenting as well but it’s not usable by anyone else and I lost interest in tidying it up). Or you could edit the firmware to present a ui within the module for calibration. Originally I just hacked the firmware to directly output the voltages I wanted (which is what I did for stages and tides 2), then realised I could do it by adjusting the knobs and buttons. I have various hacks that output values on the serial ports for testing....
5. The original notes on how I calibrated it were very terse. Bu Ma took those notes and wrote the detailed pdf I placed on the github. I have no interest in writing long notes or providing support! I just shared what I did.
6. These modules aren’t really designed for diy so you are on your own a bit really.
7. Most of the fun in diying the MI stuff lies in figuring out what it does and why it does it. The learning bit is the most important part for me... Without that element, I think it’s better to just buy the factory module - far less cost in time and risk! I dunno - having a video to walk through all this seems just wrong to me :-)
8. Obviously these are just my personal views - but you did ask :-)

The spreadsheet is just used to derive the linear dac offset and scale from the two point values (each of which has a coded dac value that corresponds to that value) you have measured (derived from what the firmware does). It’s pretty self-explanatory, isnt it?

Ps. Should this be in the *unsuccessful* builds thread ?

collumn2016
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Post by collumn2016 » Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:00 pm

Hi Forestcaver, been a few weeks now. Got a new meter and it is a 50,000 count one and 5 digits. Tried the calibration again and managed x1 through x3 okay but couldn't get the y to behave like the rest. When i set it up as described i tried changing the bias but the voltage would not change. I played around with the rate as suggested but i couldn't get a change in voltage as i had had with the others. The module seems to play in tune but i am not 100 percent sure, i compared some of the note sequences from ben's very thorough video and it seems to behave the same. Thanks for your explicit explanation above and appreciate your time. I don't know how to move it to unsuccessful builds :-). I agree yes we have to try and work out what is going on when we build these modules but my leaning is more towards using them creatively. Especially this module and similar ones too. I love generative music and they are very important to me and my system i built for this. Take it easy and thanks again.

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forestcaver
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Post by forestcaver » Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:58 pm

That’s odd you couldnt get quantised output from Y. Good news it’s working well...

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Post by steviet » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:24 pm

Hate to bump this bad boy, but I'm super happy this one turned out, thanks to forestcaver for the calibration instructions! One of my new favourite modules:

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proonjooce
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Post by proonjooce » Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:03 am

Branches and Ripples done!
Braids and Clouds up next :bananaguitar:

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belzrebuth
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Post by belzrebuth » Mon Oct 28, 2019 5:35 am

Question for those with working DIY Stages:

Does the "B" buttons take only 1 sec to put segments in looping mode?!
Mine take a lot longer (4-5 sec) but apart from that the module works fine :hmm:
Cycling thru green, yellow and red modes is instant so no worries there it's just the cycling mode that takes longer.

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forestcaver
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Post by forestcaver » Mon Oct 28, 2019 5:56 am

belzrebuth wrote:Question for those with working DIY Stages:

Does the "B" buttons take only 1 sec to put segments in looping mode?!
Mine take a lot longer (4-5 sec) but apart from that the module works fine :hmm:
Cycling thru green, yellow and red modes is instant so no worries there it's just the cycling mode that takes longer.
Built three - all 1s. Just checked the latest mi fw - it should be 1s as well. Have a look in ui.cc and see what your duration is set to....
IIRC (vaguely) someone released a hacked fw that took 5s as they wanted it a bit longer....

belzrebuth
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Post by belzrebuth » Mon Oct 28, 2019 12:04 pm

I thought that there must be a clock issue since the "1000" might not mean anything to my MCU and presto!I just found what my problem is..

My crystal does not oscillate at all..

Tried a different crystal, same thing..
Tried a thru hole crystal on the pads that are not gnd same thing too.:')
I entirely removed the xtal, turned on the module and behaves exactly like before.

So I have a working stages without a working clock :yay:

edit : It was the orientation of the 100R resistors..Now it works fine.:)

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KittenVillage
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by KittenVillage » Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:19 pm

Here's a nice pair of shades!
20200124_104543.jpg
I've had these in the build queue for 9 months. So proud of these babies! Very easy build!
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Eurorack is an exercise in delayed desire.

Hales
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by Hales » Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:18 pm

Here is my current setup, I've build Veils and Ripples that sit at the upper right of the case… first time that I do SMD soldering.
Out of frame, there is a digitakt for drums.
Which modules would you add in the free space?
I eventually look for an eurorack sequencer because I don't always feel comfortable handling the beatstep pro, the digitakt sequencer is good, but I find it painful not to have scales mode. I hear about the Hermod, this one seems to be a good companion of the digitakt…
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adam
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by adam » Tue Jan 28, 2020 6:02 pm

peaks is good for drums, warps as a folder etc for your other vco's

Hashtag Octothorpe
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by Hashtag Octothorpe » Sun Feb 09, 2020 8:43 pm

Maybe the most unusual Braids build.....



It's inspired by and I referenced this project.

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squarewavesurfer
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by squarewavesurfer » Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:56 pm

Hashtag Octothorpe wrote:
Sun Feb 09, 2020 8:43 pm
Maybe the most unusual Braids build.....
That is awesome! Braids looks pretty cool in a can.
Really unique take on a modular synth.
WTB: Sputnik Valve Multiplier; Verbos Scan & Pan; 0603 Ears pcb and/or panel

epijdemic
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by epijdemic » Wed Feb 12, 2020 3:12 pm

Done:
2x Braids (Antumbra Knot)
2x Plaits (Antumbra Knit)
Clouds (Smog)
Elements (Atom)
Marbles (Cara)
Ripples
Grids
Rings
Tides (2018)
2x Stages
Streams
Shades
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In Progress:
Warps, Veils, Shelves, Jinx

eljay
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DIY Yarns

Post by eljay » Thu Feb 20, 2020 5:02 pm

My first Mutable build, really pleased with the end result. Board and plain metal front panel from Amazing Synths, great service, fast delivery and useful supporting advice. Many thanks Adam. Only my third SMD project, it really stretched my abilities but I like a challenge. I don't think I will get into anything that uses smaller components than this but I am looking forward to building a Tides module.

The front panel cover was printed on Vinyl Matte self adhesive paper, I think it works quite well. I couldn't get Green display panels so I got yellow instead, they are quite bright but are actually OK. I had some frustration identifying a suitable encoder, in the end I went for a Bourns PEC11R-4220F-S0024, the bush length on this is just too short to get the front panel nut on, but it works with a little squeezing of the PCB toward the front panel, enough to get the nut on a couple of threads and hold it firm. The attachment to the front panel with the nut is essential to stop the PCB flexing when pressing the encoder switch.

Setting up the Mutable development environment on my PC was a lot easier in practice than it appeared at first sight and I invested in an ST-LinkV2 and the Olimex JTAG-20-10 converter cable. After a couple of false starts, I needed to build the Yarns bootloader before running the overall Yarns makefile and provide the module power from a Eurorack supply, it ran without error and downloaded the image to the micro-controller. A quick re-cycle of the module power and there it was!

Calibration is straight forward and is now done. My only negative observation is that the Mutable documentation doesn't appear to accurately reflect the functionality of the version 1.5 software that I've installed, some of the menu items and options have changed, I assume for the better.
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adam
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Re: DIY Mutable successfull builds hall of fame

Post by adam » Fri Feb 21, 2020 10:07 am

Looks great :)

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