[AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

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Jfettig
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by Jfettig » Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:14 pm

I was hoping not to be back so soon with another question, but alas..

after pluging in my PSU board for the first time my readings are not quite perfect. 0v to -15v reads correctly at -15.75 v, but 0v to +15v reads 18.14v. whats perhaps more interesting is that neither of my trimmers seem to change either reading no matter how much I move them.

I tried reflowing everything, and checked the polarity on all my caps. I compared my board visually to photos of others to make sure my trimmers weren't backwards. What next?

Additional useful information might be that my DC Voltage reading between 0 and V- is -14.24, but between 0 and V+ is 0. This obviously doesn't seem right.

Thanks again,

Jeff

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by thecivildefense » Sat Jan 18, 2020 6:01 pm

Hey Jeff. Seems like there's something shorted or placed wrong on that board. Check closely to see if there are any connections between solder points (can be tiny...had one on my console that was like a hair bridging two points from desoldering). It'll be easier to tell clearly if the board is clean so if you didn't yet I'd use IPA and toothbrush at least to clear all the flux etc out. To check components there's probably a more or less parallel flow and components on that board besides those big transistors being different...see if there's anything missing or different on the -15 from the +15 side.

edit--cut acetone comment:)
Last edited by thecivildefense on Sat Jan 18, 2020 11:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by Jim the Oldbie » Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:31 pm

Guys, please don't use acetone on this stuff. Even diluted, it's just way too nasty. You may get along fine with it for awhile, but trust me, it's a Bad Thing waiting to happen. Just sayin.

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by wminor » Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:41 pm

Just received my complete kit from Synthcube this week :sb:

Have read the whole of fuzzbass's build guide before starting. Thank you so much fuzzbass! The guide is going to make this build go so much more smoothly for me.

I have some questions related to mods:

1. How hard will it be to install the Gate Booster mod at a later date? I don't have the PCB right now, and am not even sure I need it since I'm pretty sure I have a few ways of generating 10V gates. It looks like it's just a question of cutting a single trace and wiring up the completed additional board, so I'm guessing it should be fine, right?

2. Does anyone have any audio examples that might help me decide whether or not to do the VCF AC coupling mod? I quite like the idea of being able to get a bit of a "snap" at the start of notes without the mod. Presumably that's only really the case with very short attack times? Or am I misunderstanding the issue that this mod is intended to fix?

3. There's a mod to allow a much shorter attack time for the AR envelope described by Nordcore in the v1 build thread. I don't see any mention of that in this thread or in fuzzbass's build guide. Any particular reason for that? I was wondering if it might have been added to TTSH by default at some point in v2 or v3 maybe.

Thanks everyone for sharing all this great knowledge and info. Excited to get started on this build!
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:51 pm

Jfettig wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:14 pm
I was hoping not to be back so soon with another question, but alas..

after pluging in my PSU board for the first time my readings are not quite perfect. 0v to -15v reads correctly at -15.75 v, but 0v to +15v reads 18.14v. whats perhaps more interesting is that neither of my trimmers seem to change either reading no matter how much I move them.

I tried reflowing everything, and checked the polarity on all my caps. I compared my board visually to photos of others to make sure my trimmers weren't backwards. What next?

Additional useful information might be that my DC Voltage reading between 0 and V- is -14.24, but between 0 and V+ is 0. This obviously doesn't seem right.

Thanks again,

Jeff
It sounds like there is an issue with the divider used to feed the ADJ pin on the Murata, positive side. This is the 240R, 2K4 and 500R trimmer +15V side. Look for a cold joint, bridge. or bad trimmer.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Sun Jan 19, 2020 5:28 pm

wminor wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:41 pm
1. How hard will it be to install the Gate Booster mod at a later date? I don't have the PCB right now, and am not even sure I need it since I'm pretty sure I have a few ways of generating 10V gates. It looks like it's just a question of cutting a single trace and wiring up the completed additional board, so I'm guessing it should be fine, right?
What do you have for generating gates, and will you be using a keyboard? You need +10V gates and you need triggers for the ADSR, if you are using a keyboard. If you have a *nice* MIDI to CV interface like Kenton Pro Solo, that can make 10V gates, and generate the trigger from its third output. If you are just using a sequencer or something where notes don't overlap, and it produces +10V gates, you can plug your gate source into the S&H Gate jack, and put the switch above it to S&H source, and get by without the booster. If you are on the fence, at least put a power header and the two standoffs in the EG section. Then if you decide to add the Booster later, you can do so without separating the panel and main board.
wminor wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:41 pm
2. Does anyone have any audio examples that might help me decide whether or not to do the VCF AC coupling mod? I quite like the idea of being able to get a bit of a "snap" at the start of notes without the mod. Presumably that's only really the case with very short attack times? Or am I misunderstanding the issue that this mod is intended to fix?
Generally people talk about the +5V offset as causing VCA "thump", not "snap". It sounds like a low frequency transient or a pop, and you encounter it when your envelopes have short attacks. It happens quasi randomly, not repeatably/predictably. Its caused by the audio signal being at or near a vertical transition (either headed to +10V or 0v) when the VCA opens abruptly - sawtooths or pulse waves. The main problem is you don't have precise control over it. It happens sometimes. If you want "snap" that has fingertip control, they way to do that is to crank the Exponential CV control of the VCA up past 80% to cause clipping.

The mod causes a small amount of distortion of the sawtooth and pulse waves. I don't think you can so much hear it as see it on a scope. This is one of those mods that has been added to countless ARP 2600s in the field.
wminor wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:41 pm
3. There's a mod to allow a much shorter attack time for the AR envelope described by Nordcore in the v1 build thread. I don't see any mention of that in this thread or in fuzzbass's build guide. Any particular reason for that? I was wondering if it might have been added to TTSH by default at some point in v2 or v3 maybe.
Norcore's mod is legit and I have done on my own V1, plus numerous commission builds. Its effect is to provide an even snappier AR attack when the control is minimized. It does not change the attack time at longer attack settings. I think this comes from a change that got included in some or all ARP Odyssey AR sections.

There are a number of MODs not discussed in my build guide, I may add them if there is demand.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by beatkamp » Sun Jan 19, 2020 7:44 pm

While on the topic of common problems I have seen during check-out...

If your sample and hold does not hold, but rather drifts or droops, take a look at the 2N4392 and 2N3958 jfets. The 22n cap here is the memory element, trapped between these jfets, and it is supposed to hold charge between clock pulses. If either of these jfets is bad, the cap will discharge through the jfet between pulses. Usually its the 2N4392 that gets degraded during soldering, and does not pinch off completely.
Missing the easy to miss 10K resistor in the S/H section will also provide this symptom. Its a stand up 10K, check that it is installed before anything else.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by beatkamp » Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:58 pm

My TTSH requires Gate & Trigger from a properly configured Kenton Pro Solo MKII to trigger the ADSR correctly. Gate alone will trigger the AR envelope. I am comparing against how the trigger button works. When I use just gate from the Kenton, into Gate, the envelope is "mushy". When I plug Kenton Gate into the S/H Gate it is the same as pushing the button and not mushy.

If I multi the Kenton Gate into both Gate and Trigger, the ADSR triggers the same as the push button.

I looked at the schematics and the push button and S/G Gate both hit the Trigger and Gate lines. The Gate input only hits the Gate and nothing else.

So basically, I think this may be normal behaviour but I have never had a pet elephant and I have never had a 2600 before so I have no idea.

I have traced through the schematics and believe that everything here is correct.

Would like to keep this build vanilla with no enhancements or gate boosters.

So if anyone would be so kind as to enlighten me, does one plug a gate input into both Trigger and Gate into a vanilla TTSH as per normal? If I am missing some fundamental knowledge here, kindly fill me in.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by sduck » Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:10 pm

wminor wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:41 pm
2. Does anyone have any audio examples that might help me decide whether or not to do the VCF AC coupling mod? I quite like the idea of being able to get a bit of a "snap" at the start of notes without the mod. Presumably that's only really the case with very short attack times? Or am I misunderstanding the issue that this mod is intended to fix?
I've built about half of the TTSH's I've done with the mod, and you really can't hear a difference. Except for the thump issue that it fixes. It's easy enough to go ahead and install it, and experiment - run the same vco output through the regular filter mixer input, and also through the filter input one, which doesn't have the mod. Compare the two, how they work and sound. If there's an audible difference to you, it's easy enough to remove the caps and/or jumper them. You could even make a switchable jumper (yet another mod idea).
wminor wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 9:41 pm
3. There's a mod to allow a much shorter attack time for the AR envelope described by Nordcore in the v1 build thread. I don't see any mention of that in this thread or in fuzzbass's build guide. Any particular reason for that? I was wondering if it might have been added to TTSH by default at some point in v2 or v3 maybe.
I've done this, it works well. The mod I prefer to this is adding a pair of 3 way switches that adds longer and shorter times to each of the EG sections - this is a bit more complicated, but is a really nice mod. I believe I documented how to do this somewhere in this forum a few years ago - I got this from Phil Cirrocco, who offered it as one of his popular 2600 mods.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by search64 » Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:19 am

Any update on the slider thingies?

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Mon Jan 20, 2020 5:55 pm

sduck wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:10 pm
I've done this, it works well. The mod I prefer to this is adding a pair of 3 way switches that adds longer and shorter times to each of the EG sections - this is a bit more complicated, but is a really nice mod. I believe I documented how to do this somewhere in this forum a few years ago - I got this from Phil Cirrocco, who offered it as one of his popular 2600 mods.
Honest to god, I came up with this same mod myself without stealing it from Phil. If you do this along with the AR attack fix mod, you can just simplify it to two positions: standard and long. In the AR, you just switch in a 10u cap in parallel with the 1u cap, and in the ADSR, you switch in a 22u cap in parallel with the 2 1u caps.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:08 pm

beatkamp wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:58 pm
My TTSH requires Gate & Trigger from a properly configured Kenton Pro Solo MKII to trigger the ADSR correctly. Gate alone will trigger the AR envelope. I am comparing against how the trigger button works. When I use just gate from the Kenton, into Gate, the envelope is "mushy". When I plug Kenton Gate into the S/H Gate it is the same as pushing the button and not mushy.

If I multi the Kenton Gate into both Gate and Trigger, the ADSR triggers the same as the push button.

I looked at the schematics and the push button and S/G Gate both hit the Trigger and Gate lines. The Gate input only hits the Gate and nothing else.

So basically, I think this may be normal behaviour but I have never had a pet elephant and I have never had a 2600 before so I have no idea.

I have traced through the schematics and believe that everything here is correct.

Would like to keep this build vanilla with no enhancements or gate boosters.

So if anyone would be so kind as to enlighten me, does one plug a gate input into both Trigger and Gate into a vanilla TTSH as per normal? If I am missing some fundamental knowledge here, kindly fill me in.
Your observations are correct for a properly working TTSH. This relates to Gate Booster-less install, using the Kenton Pro Solo. Set your Kenton for (02) Multiple Trigger On, (16) Gate V-Trig High, and (20) Aux Controller # Trig Pulse. Connect the gate output to the Gate jack, and the Aux output to the to the Trigger jack. Put the gate select switch in the up position. This will simulate the behavior of at 3600 series keyboard. Play trills on the keyboard using the ADSR to open the VCA. Viva la difference w/ Minimoog. You just know that the Kenton folks have a 2600 in their shop.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:11 pm

fuzzbass wrote:
Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:08 pm
beatkamp wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:58 pm
My TTSH requires Gate & Trigger from a properly configured Kenton Pro Solo MKII to trigger the ADSR correctly. Gate alone will trigger the AR envelope. I am comparing against how the trigger button works. When I use just gate from the Kenton, into Gate, the envelope is "mushy". When I plug Kenton Gate into the S/H Gate it is the same as pushing the button and not mushy.

If I multi the Kenton Gate into both Gate and Trigger, the ADSR triggers the same as the push button.

I looked at the schematics and the push button and S/G Gate both hit the Trigger and Gate lines. The Gate input only hits the Gate and nothing else.

So basically, I think this may be normal behaviour but I have never had a pet elephant and I have never had a 2600 before so I have no idea.

I have traced through the schematics and believe that everything here is correct.

Would like to keep this build vanilla with no enhancements or gate boosters.

So if anyone would be so kind as to enlighten me, does one plug a gate input into both Trigger and Gate into a vanilla TTSH as per normal? If I am missing some fundamental knowledge here, kindly fill me in.
The trigger signal resets the cycle of the ADSR, and does nothing for the AR. The AR needs +10V gate to reach full +10V on its output.

Your observations are correct for a properly working TTSH. This relates to Gate Booster-less install, using the Kenton Pro Solo. Set your Kenton for (02) Multiple Trigger On, (16) Gate V-Trig High, and (20) Aux Controller # Trig Pulse. Connect the gate output to the Gate jack, and the Aux output to the to the Trigger jack. Put the gate select switch in the up position. This will simulate the behavior of at 3600 series keyboard. Play trills on the keyboard using the ADSR to open the VCA. Viva la difference w/ Minimoog. You just know that the Kenton folks have a 2600 in their shop.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:18 pm

beatkamp wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 10:58 pm
My TTSH requires Gate & Trigger from a properly configured Kenton Pro Solo MKII to trigger the ADSR correctly. Gate alone will trigger the AR envelope. I am comparing against how the trigger button works. When I use just gate from the Kenton, into Gate, the envelope is "mushy". When I plug Kenton Gate into the S/H Gate it is the same as pushing the button and not mushy.

If I multi the Kenton Gate into both Gate and Trigger, the ADSR triggers the same as the push button.

I looked at the schematics and the push button and S/G Gate both hit the Trigger and Gate lines. The Gate input only hits the Gate and nothing else.

So basically, I think this may be normal behaviour but I have never had a pet elephant and I have never had a 2600 before so I have no idea.

I have traced through the schematics and believe that everything here is correct.

Would like to keep this build vanilla with no enhancements or gate boosters.

So if anyone would be so kind as to enlighten me, does one plug a gate input into both Trigger and Gate into a vanilla TTSH as per normal? If I am missing some fundamental knowledge here, kindly fill me in.
The trigger signal resets the cycle of the ADSR, and does nothing for the AR. The AR needs +10V gate to reach full +10V on its output.

Your observations are correct for a properly working TTSH. This relates to Gate Booster-less install, using the Kenton Pro Solo. Set your Kenton for (02) Multiple Trigger On, (16) Gate V-Trig High, and (20) Aux Controller # Trig Pulse. Connect the gate output to the Gate jack, and the Aux output to the to the Trigger jack. Put the gate select switch in the up position. This will simulate the behavior of at 3600 series keyboard. Play trills on the keyboard using the ADSR to open the VCA. Viva la difference w/ Minimoog. You just know that the Kenton folks have a 2600 in their shop.

Here is your enlightenment: On the Kenton, (02) Multiple Trigger on means a new trigger and a short drop in Gate, when notes overlap. So the ADSR will restart when you trill or overlap notes. This provides nothing at all if you are using a sequencer, but greatly improved keyboard articulation and less, er... mush.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by beatkamp » Mon Jan 20, 2020 7:22 pm

Thank you so much for the detailed explanation Mr. Fuzzbass.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by Jfettig » Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:45 am

fuzzbass wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:51 pm
Jfettig wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:14 pm
I was hoping not to be back so soon with another question, but alas..

after pluging in my PSU board for the first time my readings are not quite perfect. 0v to -15v reads correctly at -15.75 v, but 0v to +15v reads 18.14v. whats perhaps more interesting is that neither of my trimmers seem to change either reading no matter how much I move them.

I tried reflowing everything, and checked the polarity on all my caps. I compared my board visually to photos of others to make sure my trimmers weren't backwards. What next?

Additional useful information might be that my DC Voltage reading between 0 and V- is -14.24, but between 0 and V+ is 0. This obviously doesn't seem right.

Thanks again,

Jeff
It sounds like there is an issue with the divider used to feed the ADJ pin on the Murata, positive side. This is the 240R, 2K4 and 500R trimmer +15V side. Look for a cold joint, bridge. or bad trimmer.
OK,

So I did find that I had a 2.7k resistor where the 27k resistor needed to be. whoops. I fixed that and was able to get the proper 15.74v at the +15 pin. The V+ pin still reads 0v. I tried swapping the trimmers, and pulled both the 240 and 2k4 resistors, and measured them within tolerance. still no dice.

is it possible I fried something with having the wrong value resistor in the 24k spot?

What else to try?

Thanks,

Jeff

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by thecivildefense » Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:33 am

fuzzbass wrote:
Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:18 pm
Here is your enlightenment: On the Kenton, (02) Multiple Trigger on means a new trigger and a short drop in Gate, when notes overlap. So the ADSR will restart when you trill or overlap notes. This provides nothing at all if you are using a sequencer, but greatly improved keyboard articulation and less, er... mush.
I know lots of you are using the Arturia Keystep. Anyone know if the keystep can be set to multiple trigger? It's not by default, and I'm missing it in the manual if it's there...

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by spacecadet » Tue Jan 21, 2020 2:46 pm

Jfettig wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:45 am
fuzzbass wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:51 pm
Jfettig wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:14 pm
I was hoping not to be back so soon with another question, but alas..

after pluging in my PSU board for the first time my readings are not quite perfect. 0v to -15v reads correctly at -15.75 v, but 0v to +15v reads 18.14v. whats perhaps more interesting is that neither of my trimmers seem to change either reading no matter how much I move them.

I tried reflowing everything, and checked the polarity on all my caps. I compared my board visually to photos of others to make sure my trimmers weren't backwards. What next?

Additional useful information might be that my DC Voltage reading between 0 and V- is -14.24, but between 0 and V+ is 0. This obviously doesn't seem right.

Thanks again,

Jeff
It sounds like there is an issue with the divider used to feed the ADJ pin on the Murata, positive side. This is the 240R, 2K4 and 500R trimmer +15V side. Look for a cold joint, bridge. or bad trimmer.
OK,

So I did find that I had a 2.7k resistor where the 27k resistor needed to be. whoops. I fixed that and was able to get the proper 15.74v at the +15 pin. The V+ pin still reads 0v. I tried swapping the trimmers, and pulled both the 240 and 2k4 resistors, and measured them within tolerance. still no dice.

is it possible I fried something with having the wrong value resistor in the 24k spot?

What else to try?

Thanks,

Jeff

The murata trim resistor equation is as follows from the murata datasheet :-

R-trim = 25000 / ( desired V out - 15 ) - 5110

27K resistor gives you the desired 15.75v . 2.7K gives you over 18v - so your measurements with the incorrect resistor fit . In fact I am surprised the murata didn't shut down when that voltage was requested.

Please go and get a copy of the TTSH v3 schematics from the human comparator website and you should see what I mean. It is on page 14. The lower circuit is the murata circuit that generates 15.75v. The upper circuit on that page are for the two ldo's that generate +/- 15.0v

This 15.75v feeds the 15v ldo regulator that generates the 15.0v - the TL1963A.

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tl1963a.pdf

Fortunately 18v looks like its within the absolute maximum rating of this part so I doubt you have damaged it that way. These parts are ESD sensitive though - are you taking ESD precaution building your TTSH?

Anyway - the circuit for this is simple. All that is needed is an input voltage, the shutdown pin to be in the correct state and the output trimmed using a resistor divider on the ADJ pin.

As this is a SMT part - first check you have not shorted SHDN pin to ground. Then check for having got the 240ohm and the 2K4 resistors the right way around. I strongly suspect you should double check your soldering for this part as its a pain if you are not used to hand soldering SMT.
Use your ohmmeter to buzz out the connectivity of all the pins on this part to ensure it matches with the schematic.

If the LDO is getting 15.75 on its VIN from the murata , and the SHDN pin is in the correct state and the ADJ pin is clamped to 1.21v then there is not much that can go wrong. Note that the 2K4+ 500ohm trimmer and 240ohm resistor form a divider. For the regulator to output 15V, the resistor divider needs to generate 1.21v when the output is 15v. This should be achieved when the trimmer is at around 336ohm, using the following calculation Vout = Vin x 240ohm / (2400ohm + 240ohm + 336ohm )

EDIT: I just noticed you wrote "is it possible I fried something with having the wrong value resistor in the 24k spot?"

We know you got it wrong in the 27K spot, so was this a typo, or did you also put the wrong resistor in the 2K4 spot as well?

Note that if you have somehow messed things up so that the ADJ pin gets a voltage from somewhere even when the regulator output is at 0v, then the regulator will never startup. So this would occur if you shorted ADJ with VIN, for example. If you managed to get more than +/- 7v on ADJ (clearly, from a source other than this regulators output), then you have stressed the regulator beyond its absolute maximum ratings and you will likely need to replace it.

This is unlikely to occur at the soldering of the part itself as ADJ and VIN are not adjacent.

VOUT and GND ARE adjacent though - please check that very carefully under magnification.
Last edited by spacecadet on Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:23 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by beatkamp » Tue Jan 21, 2020 2:55 pm

Jfettig wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:45 am
fuzzbass wrote:
Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:51 pm
Jfettig wrote:
Sat Jan 18, 2020 3:14 pm
I was hoping not to be back so soon with another question, but alas..

after pluging in my PSU board for the first time my readings are not quite perfect. 0v to -15v reads correctly at -15.75 v, but 0v to +15v reads 18.14v. whats perhaps more interesting is that neither of my trimmers seem to change either reading no matter how much I move them.

I tried reflowing everything, and checked the polarity on all my caps. I compared my board visually to photos of others to make sure my trimmers weren't backwards. What next?

Additional useful information might be that my DC Voltage reading between 0 and V- is -14.24, but between 0 and V+ is 0. This obviously doesn't seem right.

Thanks again,

Jeff
It sounds like there is an issue with the divider used to feed the ADJ pin on the Murata, positive side. This is the 240R, 2K4 and 500R trimmer +15V side. Look for a cold joint, bridge. or bad trimmer.
OK,

So I did find that I had a 2.7k resistor where the 27k resistor needed to be. whoops. I fixed that and was able to get the proper 15.74v at the +15 pin. The V+ pin still reads 0v. I tried swapping the trimmers, and pulled both the 240 and 2k4 resistors, and measured them within tolerance. still no dice.

is it possible I fried something with having the wrong value resistor in the 24k spot?

What else to try?

Thanks,

Jeff
Check through every single component visually, preferably under a magnifier. Look at your soldering, check for a bridge. Trace the voltages through with your meter starting at the source 12VDC. At some point, after a finite number of steps, the issue(s) will be clear.
= Scrits were the almost certainly mythical
= creatures which Dwellers blamed when
= anything went badly wrong anywhere
= in their vicinity.

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beatkamp
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by beatkamp » Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:13 pm

TTSH Done! Thank you SynthCube, that kit is fantastic. The powder coated steel cabinet is fantastic as well as your choice of reverb tank. The extra 12k1 resistor will come in handy one day. I took over 50 hours building this thing but it was all worth it. Everything I spent, time and money; worth it completely. For a through hole, duplicate of the 2600 there is nothing else. I did not match transistors, my 2n3906's were on a tape so I used subsequent ones. The 2n3904's were in a sack so they went in purely random. My unit tunes stable over 4 octaves and sounds great. I totally do not recommend not matching, its a crap shoot and you can lose. I won. Anyhow, thank you SynthCube, thank you Human Comparator, thank you list. I post seldom (never) but I lurk frequently. If you are on the fence about building a TTSH, get off it and do it. Its a gnarly and unforgiving build but one that delivers a significant reward.
TTSH_ExerciseBike_8.jpg
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= Scrits were the almost certainly mythical
= creatures which Dwellers blamed when
= anything went badly wrong anywhere
= in their vicinity.

spacecadet
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by spacecadet » Tue Jan 21, 2020 3:23 pm

Well I can gloat a bit because I built a Deckard's Dream (DDRM ) before this build. There were over 800 smt capacitors to solder on that one.

The DDRM makes the TTSH seem easy in comparison :lol:

A properly working TTSH is most certainly a very fine achievement in its own right, for sure!!

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fuzzbass
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Tue Jan 21, 2020 4:49 pm

Jfettig wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 12:45 am


So I did find that I had a 2.7k resistor where the 27k resistor needed to be. whoops. I fixed that and was able to get the proper 15.74v at the +15 pin. The V+ pin still reads 0v. I tried swapping the trimmers, and pulled both the 240 and 2k4 resistors, and measured them within tolerance. still no dice.

is it possible I fried something with having the wrong value resistor in the 24k spot?

What else to try?

Thanks,

Jeff
Did you solder down the big tabs on the SMT regulators?
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alocaster
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by alocaster » Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:19 pm

There are a number of MODs not discussed in my build guide, I may add them if there is demand.
[/quote]

Fuzzbass, I cannot speak for everyone but I know I would be interested in mods to the ADSR and AR. Don't want to steal some one's livelihood but it has been very cool to understand the history of this synth a little better and know others contribution to its performance.

thanks
rob

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fuzzbass
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:01 pm

thecivildefense wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:33 am
fuzzbass wrote:
Mon Jan 20, 2020 6:18 pm
Here is your enlightenment: On the Kenton, (02) Multiple Trigger on means a new trigger and a short drop in Gate, when notes overlap. So the ADSR will restart when you trill or overlap notes. This provides nothing at all if you are using a sequencer, but greatly improved keyboard articulation and less, er... mush.
I know lots of you are using the Arturia Keystep. Anyone know if the keystep can be set to multiple trigger? It's not by default, and I'm missing it in the manual if it's there...
I just updated Midi Control Center and the Keystep firmware, and the multiple trigger function for the CV gate output is still not there.
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Re: [AVAILABLE] TTSH V4 Build Thread

Post by fuzzbass » Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:06 pm

alocaster wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 9:19 pm

Fuzzbass, I cannot speak for everyone but I know I would be interested in mods to the ADSR and AR. Don't want to steal some one's livelihood but it has been very cool to understand the history of this synth a little better and know others contribution to its performance.

thanks
rob
I'm trying to limit mods in my guide to exclude those requiring panel drilling. One has to draw the line somewhere. I'm not trying to keep any secrets; these mods are published elsewhere. Otherwise Uli would not have found all of them and put them in his prototype :mad:
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