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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[IN STOCK] Buchlidian Voltage Proc PCB, Euro Panel (CVP)
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author [IN STOCK] Buchlidian Voltage Proc PCB, Euro Panel (CVP)
negativspace
The simple but useful circuit was originally designed by Chris MacDonald, modified by Peter Grenader, then further modified by Matthias Herrmann (fonik) and released as a schematic and P&P layout in 2006. It has +/-5v of offset, a glide control, and an attenuverter. There are pads on the board for one bi-color LED. I based this heavily on Matthias' version of the circuit, with an additional buffered THROUGH connection and a modified output stage which will now drive a passive multiple. This is being produced with Matthias' blessing.

- PCB dimensions: 1.5" x 2.85" (~38mm x ~72mm)
- MOTM + Euro power connections.
- On-board pots: 1" on-center to match the 4hp Euro panels.
- 2 mounting holes for those who don't want 1" pot spacing and wish to use a bracket.
- Optional reverse-power protection.



The PANEL price is $15.00/ea. The PCB price is $10.00/ea, and there will be a $3 shipping charge per order. I will gladly ship overseas for an extra $8 per order.

The best way to pay is with Paypal - my address is jcoates42 (at) gmail [dot] com.

BOM:

Resistors - 1% (Mouser # 271-XXX-RC, where XXX is the value.)
[1] 33K (+/-12v operation) or 47K (+/-15v operation)
[5] 47k
[1] 39k
[1] 100k
[1] 4.7k
[2] 470R (R = 'Ohm')
[1] 680R

Capacitors
[2] 10uF/22uF electrolytic
[2] 100nF (0.1uF) ceramic
[1] 1uF electrolytic

Semis/ICs
[2] 1N4001
[1] TL074
[1] TL072CN or LT1013, both available @ Mouser
[1] LED


Misc.
[1] 20k Trimpot
[2] Ferrite Bead
[1] 10-pin Euro or 4-pin MTA-156 (Straight or Right-angle.) (MOTM)
[2] PTC Resettable Fuse

Pots (For the 4hp Euro panel, you'll need to use a smaller pot such as the 9mm Alphas from Small Bear/Banzai Music.)
[2] 50k Linear
[1] 1M Audio
mikecameron
2 for me please!
scozbor
2 for me thumbs up
wwall
Count me in for four!

(Hoping you won't hold my low post count against me.)
decaying.sine
*double post accident
decaying.sine
I would like 8 please.
questionable
4 boards, please!
gwaidan
2 for me please!
active
i know i want 2. i will potentially want 4. as a relatively new wiggler, i am a bit in the dark on what i could do with this. if anyone cares to shed some light, i will more then likely get 4.
patchdub
active wrote:
i am a bit in the dark on what i could do with this. if anyone cares to shed some light, i will more then likely get 4.


yes please illuminate me as well.
tailwagger
I'm in for four.
fluxmonkey
overall dimensions of the board, por favor?
negativspace
negativspace wrote:
...and this 1.5" x 3.2" PCB is the end result....


8_) Mr. Green
SMS303
I'm in for three.. make it FOUR!... thumbs up
Unless Falafelbiels wants them too, then more...
negativspace
patchdub wrote:
active wrote:
i am a bit in the dark on what i could do with this. if anyone cares to shed some light, i will more then likely get 4.


yes please illuminate me as well.


It's just a basic set of CV tools.

The offset/attenuator controls are useful for scaling and shifting voltages - turning a +/- 2.5v waveform into a 0-5v signal to open a VCA or squashing a 0-5v signal into a 1-3v signal prior to a quantizer, for example.

The glide circuit is a simple slew, good for taking the edge off of fast triggers to eliminate VCA click, adding glide to a pitch CV for portamento, etc. I use it with my RCD & uStep to turn the triggers into 'softer' events for more subtle modulations.

Here's the panel that this has been designed for, it might give you some idea as to what it actually does in the real world. (I know seeing a panel design always helps me grok a module.) This panel uses 2 of these PCBs, one per channel. The mix section is done offboard with an additional CGS04 PCB and the two switches up top are ON-OFF-(ON) switches for muting or manually injecting the signal, what have you.


mome rath
i will buy 2
jarvis
I'm down for 4
notimeforlove
This board looks like it would be a single CV processor yeah? I ask cause Fonix's module contains 2 right next to each other an the 255 has 8 in one module. If it's just a single, I think I'll late 4.
negativspace
Yes, it is a single board per channel.
glacial23
I'll take two.
rico loverde
4 please. Thank you for this. Very cool.
ATOM
I take 4

ATOM
beautyofdecay_
I'll take 4.

Thanks!
ndkent
two
Norman_Phay
Can you put me down for 4 x these, please. Thankls!
rosch
i'm interested in 2.
nickciontea
i will take 4
emdot_ambient
I think a quartet of these would be nice...so, 4. Yeah, 4 for me!
BananaPlug
Four please.
frozenkore
I'll take hmmm..... 4 ... yea, 4 thumbs up
Isaiah
Put me down for 4, please!
perplx
I'd like 2
valis
At least two for me. I'll evaluate my needs and perhaps I'll need more..
fluxmonkey
negativspace wrote:
negativspace wrote:
...and this 1.5" x 3.2" PCB is the end result....


8_) Mr. Green


doh d'oh! 4 for me por favor.
Rod Serling Fan Club
I'll take 4. Thanks!
consumed
you say the pcb prototype has been built up successfully? yes, please then, ill take

4

thanks!
mark
I'll take 4 as well!

4
seems to be the magic number around here.
SMS303
and.. and.. did we hit the 80 allready?

The Chewbacca Defense The Chewbacca Defense The Chewbacca Defense
JCM
Put me down for 4!
goiks
two please
fonik
i will take 4 w00t
negativspace
consumed wrote:
you say the pcb prototype has been built up successfully?


It has indeed. I went through one revision prior to announcing the project, and the revised version works 100%. thumbs up

fonik wrote:
i will take 4 w00t


Yours are on the house, good sir! Thanks for letting us do this. SlayerBadger!

We're up to 106 so far, plus however many I take for myself & the spares for late orders. I will revise the cost per board downward - but I'll do so when I have the final number. I'm expecting a final tag of $6 apiece at this point. Thanks, everybody!
moellhoven
I'll take 4.
negativspace
Observing the number of European wigglers who've responded, I should probably mention that these will be Lead-free, ROHS compliant PCBs.
PF
Rockin' Banana! It's motherfucking bacon yo Rockin' Banana! It's motherfucking bacon yo
SMS303
negativspace wrote:
We're up to 106 so far....I'm expecting a final tag of $6 apiece at this point....

SMS303 wrote:
I'm in for three.. make it FOUR!...

Sir, can i please change my pre-order of four into SIX? SlayerBadger!
negativspace
Down for 6. thumbs up
diophantine
I'll take 4, please!
jarvis
wow, at 6/ea I'll change my order from 4 to 6!
active
@negativespace - thanks for some of the ideas to do with this, as well as the faceplate. it helps me a lot to understand what some of the functionality is. and at 6 a pop, i will up my order from 2 to 4! Bananallama!

oh man, i am starting to amass a nice stack of boards that need to be built. Guinness ftw!

where did all that money go? Never maintain cash savings again
negativspace
active wrote:
oh man, i am starting to amass a nice stack of boards that need to be built. Guinness ftw!

where did all that money go? Never maintain cash savings again


This is how it begins...

Glad that all helped, and thanks for the order. w00t
lazerkind
4 here SlayerBadger!

Do the pcb's have holes in them so you could stack them with spacers?
Or is pot-mouting only?

//L
negativspace
negativspace wrote:

2 mounting holes for those who don't want 1.2" pot spacing and wish to use a bracket.


8_) Mr. Green
lazerkind
d'oh!
Thanks negativspace, I guess there is just not enough caffeine in the blood stream yet eek!
//L
chriscoady
i'll take 4 boards. is there a paypal address for this yet?

chris coady
limpmeat
I'll take 2
depth20
I'll take two thanks!
mono-poly
4 please
negativspace
lazerkind wrote:
d'oh!
Thanks negativspace, I guess there is just not enough caffeine in the blood stream yet eek!


You bet. All in good fun. It's motherfucking bacon yo
wmonk
4! Guinness ftw!
carynrich
2 please, thanks.
a100user
I'll take 2 please
glacial23
I think I need to update my 2 to 4!
jarvis
faaack gotta revise again - got a non-wiggler buddy that needs some.

my order is now for 9!

sorry, last revision I promise!
negativspace
Keep revising! You have 12 days. hihi
kdub
4 please.
iopop
Anyone else been thinking about doing 8 and copy the 255 layout? I made this fast mockup on cardboard, sadly failed miserably. The outer pots are far too near the banana jacks. Think it might need 1 inch spacing instead and 9mm pots. The Davies 1900 clones look a bit strange as well, used what I had at home.



The cardboard was a bit wobbly and I didnt feel like attaching pots to all positions so most of the knobs are just lying freely on the cardboard.

Might be possible to use 4 boards with the Davies 1610AA knobs and place all bananas on the left or right side. Would break a nice signal flow though (inputs on left, outs on right). argh! Back to the drawing board, still some days left.
Peake
2 please.
negativspace
The 8-way panel looks great! Definitely too close to the jacks, though. sad banana

I did add the holes for bracket-mounting if you wish to use different spacing. These were ultimately designed to fit that one specific panel but I know 1.2" is atypical, so I've tried to accommodate other applications as much as possible without encroaching on my original purpose. 8_)
Rod Serling Fan Club
iopop wrote:
Anyone else been thinking about doing 8 and copy the 255 layout?




At the moment I am leaning towards an imagined panel of what a 255 might have looked like as a quad in the original 200 series (as opposed to 200e). Keep in mind that my DIY buchla plans change with the wind. I vacillate between doing “standard” buchla inspired panels or something a bit more functionally dense. I love the original black knobs but their size makes them awkward when trying to do anything remotely dense. Even sticking 4 of these in a panel with those large knobs might prove problematic. Similar modules in the old 100 & 200 series were only dual modules.

Obviously if buchla could do it, you can too. Get smaller pots. I also noticed your spacing is off from the spacing on the 255 in which the sapcing appears to be more even between the pots and jacks.
negativspace
Have you seen the Davies 1910 and 1913s? They are a very similar style of black skirted knob but aren't all that big. Mouser stocks them, I've ordered a tester of each for my own Buchla clone experiments and I quite like them.
Rod Serling Fan Club
Yeah, I'm toying with that idea too. Isn't it the 1910 that comes in 3/4"?

Are you using them along with 1600s and 1610s or did are you using all 1910s and 1913s? I ask because I wonder if they intermingle well or if you think it would be better stickign to one type or the other.
negativspace
Yep, the 1910s are 3/4" diameter. They're a lot shorter than the 1900s so they don't mix well with those, and I'm not familiar with the 1600s so I can't comment on that. The 1913 is 1 1/8", good for 'the big knob' when necessary. I still think I can fit an 'original-258'-style panel into Euro. Haven't had time to sit down and draw it up yet.
Rod Serling Fan Club
I believe the 1600 and 1610 are the original black knobs used on the buchla.
negativspace
I see... ihe 16xxs are similar enough in size, not sure how the flute styles look together - which was your original question I suppose. d'oh!

They're not expensive. I'll tack one on to my next order and have myself a look.
Cat-A-Tonic
8 for me please.
iopop
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
I also noticed your spacing is off from the spacing on the 255 in which the sapcing appears to be more even between the pots and jacks.

I know, but I really wanted to make use of the pcb mounted pots. Wiring is always what keeps me away from finalizing projects. Will try out a quad version using 1610AAs instead and taking inspiration from 257.
djangosfire
I'll take 4x please . . . thanks!
patchdub
negativspace wrote:


It's just a basic set of CV tools.

The offset/attenuator controls are useful for scaling and shifting voltages - turning a +/- 2.5v waveform into a 0-5v signal to open a VCA or squashing a 0-5v signal into a 1-3v signal prior to a quantizer, for example.

The glide circuit is a simple slew, good for taking the edge off of fast triggers to eliminate VCA click, adding glide to a pitch CV for portamento, etc. I use it with my RCD & uStep to turn the triggers into 'softer' events for more subtle modulations.

Here's the panel that this has been designed for, it might give you some idea as to what it actually does in the real world. (I know seeing a panel design always helps me grok a module.) This panel uses 2 of these PCBs, one per channel. The mix section is done offboard with an additional CGS04 PCB and the two switches up top are ON-OFF-(ON) switches for muting or manually injecting the signal, what have you.



still trying to wrap my head around what this means.

please put me down for two while i figure it out.

thanks!
boothnavy
Ok, fukk it, i'll take six.
moogah
I'm in for four Guinness ftw!
sanders
I made pretty much this exact module a few years ago, using Foniks DIY layouts-- except with 6 processors, and two mixers at the bottom.

I ended up setting these panels aside in favor of exact 200 series reproductions. I had a few different "buchlaesque" panels designed and finished incorporating CGS, MFOS, and DIY circuits. The panels are just sitting in a box now-- if anyone is interested.

Incidentally, it's worth pointing out that the 255 was designed as an add on for the 296 Spectral Processor, and that's why there are 8 sections on one panel. I doubt anyone would ever need to use 8 sections at once otherwise-- or who knows.

iopop wrote:
Anyone else been thinking about doing 8 and copy the 255 layout? I made this fast mockup on cardboard, sadly failed miserably. The outer pots are far too near the banana jacks. Think it might need 1 inch spacing instead and 9mm pots. The Davies 1900 clones look a bit strange as well, used what I had at home.

The cardboard was a bit wobbly and I didnt feel like attaching pots to all positions so most of the knobs are just lying freely on the cardboard.

Might be possible to use 4 boards with the Davies 1610AA knobs and place all bananas on the left or right side. Would break a nice signal flow though (inputs on left, outs on right). argh! Back to the drawing board, still some days left.
sanders
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

I love the original black knobs but their size makes them awkward when trying to do anything remotely dense. Even sticking 4 of these in a panel with those large knobs might prove problematic. Similar modules in the old 100 & 200 series were only dual modules.


The medium black davies knobs would fit four on a panel without a problem. You can look at the original Low Pass Gate with 4 rows of knobs, or the Triple Envelope Follower with 3 Columns of these knobs. So, one could get 4 rows, with 3 columns in each row, and probably still have room for the jacks.

The biggest problem you'll find is not with front panel space, but with rear panel space for all of those PCBs and wires.

Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

Obviously if buchla could do it, you can too.


I wouldn't just assume that.
Rod Serling Fan Club
sanders wrote:


Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

Obviously if buchla could do it, you can too.


I wouldn't just assume that.


You don't give yourself enough credit.
negativspace


Working perfectly, and damned good fun. It's motherfucking bacon yo
a100user
negativspace wrote:


Working perfectly, and damned good fun. It's motherfucking bacon yo


Nice panel there. Do you have a spare? Worth an ask wink
negativspace
Thanks! I don't have any spare, but I can always order more. If 5 or 10 people decide they want one, I'd make a group order. It's not an inexpensive panel, but with the 20% discount for 10...
active
i'm already gearing up to buy all the components. is that a TL074 being used?
consumed
@negativspace: are those tic marks around the pots an hpgl graphic?
would you care to share it if so? they look really nice.
negativspace
@active - Yes, I've built them successfully with TL074 and TL064 so far. The marking on the PCB will be 'TL0x4' as I'm sure the 84s work as well. The resistor marked '33k47' sets the offset range to 5v - use 33k for a 12v supply or 47k (from original schematic) for 15v.

@consumed - They are. It's all hpgl'd and with stacked text boxes where possible. I will share the .fpd, but it would be in everyone's best interest to combine an order so I'll wait a bit to see how interest in that develops. (edit: did you mean to ask whether I'd just share the tic mark .hpgl file itself? If so then absolutely. I may have misread your question.)

Here's a better shot of just the panel:

gaslampmusehog
4 as well please
consumed
negativspace wrote:
@consumed - They are. (edit: did you mean to ask whether I'd just share the tic mark .hpgl file itself?


yep--thank you! that would SlayerBadger!
active
[quote="negativspace"]@active - Yes, I've built them successfully with TL074 and TL064 so far. The marking on the PCB will be 'TL0x4' as I'm sure the 84s work as well. The resistor marked '33k47' sets the offset range to 5v - use 33k for a 12v supply or 47k (from original schematic) for 15v.[quote="negativspace"]

awesome, thanks for clearing that up, and for the resistor mention. i was about to order a 33.47k resistor eek!
a100user
negativspace wrote:
Thanks! I don't have any spare, but I can always order more. If 5 or 10 people decide they want one, I'd make a group order. It's not an inexpensive panel, but with the 20% discount for 10...


That would be very cool. Anyone else up for Euro panels.

I may have to up my PCB request just for an extra panel applause
wavehead
I want 4 PCBs.

Thanks for doing this.
wmonk
Is there a BOM somewhere? hyper
negativspace
There will be full documentation, I'd planned to compile it during the span of time between ordering boards on the 22nd and receiving them. If you're in a hurry, the PCB image in the original post should be sufficient, everything is marked.

Except the pots. There are 2 50k and a 1M, all Lin. (P3/Glide is the 1M.)
active
wmonk wrote:
Is there a BOM somewhere? hyper


i just looked at the silkscreen on the first post and put a list together based on that. i could put a little excel sheet up for everyone too if anyone is interested.
rosch
may i please upgrade my order to 4 pcbs?
wmonk
active wrote:
i just looked at the silkscreen on the first post and put a list together based on that. i could put a little excel sheet up for everyone too if anyone is interested.

Just did the same. Only confusing part is where I read 380c, I guess that must be 390k? hmmm.....
negativspace
You mean the resistor between the 33k/47k and the 4.7k? That says '680R' - at least when the traces aren't muddling the issue.
Junk Rhythm
Put me down for 4 PCBs.
Junk Rhythm
negativspace wrote:
@consumed - They are. It's all hpgl'd and with stacked text boxes where possible. I will share the .fpd, but it would be in everyone's best interest to combine an order so I'll wait a bit to see how interest in that develops. (edit: did you mean to ask whether I'd just share the tic mark .hpgl file itself? If so then absolutely. I may have misread your question.)


negativspace wrote:
Thanks! I don't have any spare, but I can always order more. If 5 or 10 people decide they want one, I'd make a group order. It's not an inexpensive panel, but with the 20% discount for 10...


Depending on how many of these DIY builds are going into Euro systems, a Metal Photo run of the panels could work out cheaper than a FPE run.
negativspace
Everyone's written down to this point, and we're over 200! w00t

A Metal Photo run is definitely an option should the numbers swell to sufficient size, but so far I have exactly 0 commitments to the panel. (Which is fine, that wasn't part of my plan.)
photon
2 boards, please.

thx.
Rod Serling Fan Club
You may want to move the closing date up a couple days. I keep hearing we are all going to be "raptured" on Saturday.
consumed
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
You may want to move the closing date up a couple days. I keep hearing we are all going to be "raptured" on Saturday.


source?
diophantine
consumed wrote:
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
You may want to move the closing date up a couple days. I keep hearing we are all going to be "raptured" on Saturday.


source?

http://judgementday2011.com/
iopop
Put me down for 4 PCBs.

Sadly I havnt had the chance to try out any more layouts.
consumed
diophantine wrote:
consumed wrote:
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
You may want to move the closing date up a couple days. I keep hearing we are all going to be "raptured" on Saturday.

source?

http://judgementday2011.com/



doomsday. excellent Exxxcellent
negativspace
Nothing spices up a group-buy thread like a little doomsday. w00t

Best line of the whole page:

"Many of you have contacted me to ask what I will do on May 22, after the May 21 Judgement Day. I’ve been asked what I will do with my things, and if I will give them away to those who write an entire one line email to me."
consumed
did you notice the "rapture ready" tshirts available for sale for $19?
i wonder why they are not just giving the shirts away. they wont need the money in a few days.
negativspace
See, I agree with that. I've deliberately scheduled my cut-off date so that in case of rapture, nobody will have to go through the hassle of paying me. I'm just that considerate. Mr. Green
kupfer_m
Count me in for 2 please!

Thanks
e-grad
I'm in for 2! Thanks!
arrmcbain
2 for me too! :tu:
Blinkar blå
4 please!
mig27
I'm down for 4!

Thanks


Michael
limpmeat
4 for me please!
NV
I'd like to get in for 2 boards please. Thanks for organizing all of this!
theabsent
I'll take 4.
negativspace
You're welcome, guys. Thanks to you all for placing orders, I'd have paid through the nose to order just the 12 of these that I need for myself. hihi

We've hit a point of diminishing returns on the numbers - another 50 will drop my cost by less than $.15 apiece - so I think I can put a final tag of $6.50 on these. All but one of you has asked for an even number, so that shouldn't get messy. I'll edit the OP with this information.
a100user
$6.50 is a great price

Nice.
tomcat
4 please!

Thanks a lot
bluedonkey
4 please
negativspace
OK guys, I'm out of town on business this weekend. I'll probably have internet where I'm staying, but in case I don't... I'll be back around on Sunday night to close the thread and start the order up. You've got a couple days left!

Valis, if you read this... I have a blank in the # column next to your name, I'll aim for 4 unless you tell me otherwise. I'm ordering ~30 extra, so there's some wiggle-room for everyone. thumbs up
mikecameron
great price! Change my order to 4 boards please.
303monkey
4 for me please
tailwagger
bump me from 4 to 8. Thanks -
reve
I'd like to throw in for four, please. Thank you!
synthnut
I'd be up for 4 most certainly!
Just too many cool boards appearing recently. I've got about 60 to stuff now, better stockpile some components too.
Only 25 years to go until I retire and have some time...

Cheers,
Ben

www.bigbluewave.co.uk
Neutron7
I was going to make my own, but the price is great. 4 please!
gwaidan
Bump me to 4 please...
Dego
4 please
negativspace
synthnut wrote:

Just too many cool boards appearing recently. I've got about 60 to stuff now, better stockpile some components too.
Only 25 years to go until I retire and have some time...


I know exactly what you mean, it seems like the more I build the longer my backlog gets. Makes no sense to me at all... but then I guess I have a wicked PCB collection, at least. hihi
Dego
My backlog would be smaller if I had more panels...

At least my hoarder addiction gets satisfied with my pcb addiction.
rico loverde
2 to 4 for me, Thanx for this!
a100user
Bump me up from 2 to 4 please
ndkent
4 total please.
thanks!
skweeegor
4 please
BananaPlug
4 here as well please.
Funky40
I PMed
bwhittington
I would like 4, please.
gwaidan
Just like to say I'd be interested in the Euro format panel if it goes ahead-seems that post got a bit lost in the flurry of people ordering
chocolatyshatner
I'd like four please.
DannoGeeRay
I'll take 2 please.
Spanningtree
I'll go with 4, thanks!
negativspace
... and we are now closed. 8_)

I'll fire the order off here in a few minutes. It'll take about 2 weeks, assuming smooth sailing. During that time I will work on putting together build documents. Thanks again to everyone who placed an order!
diophantine
Awesome! Thanks for setting this up!

When & how do we pay you?
RF
Oh Crap - I missed this.
...If you end up with a couple extra's boards I'd -ummm- be interested.
smile
Thanks
Isaiah
negativspace wrote:
... and we are now closed. 8_)

I'll fire the order off here in a few minutes. It'll take about 2 weeks, assuming smooth sailing. During that time I will work on putting together build documents. Thanks again to everyone who placed an order!


Thanks for taking the time to share this project with us. Looking forward to receiving mine.

I PM'd you regarding an idea, just in case you missed it.

Cheers!
active
quick question on the silk screen - is that a 4001 diode?
negativspace
Sorry for absenteeing the last couple days, my mom's in town visiting this week and I'm playing host more than internetting.

@RF - I ordered a couple dozen spare, how many ya need?

@Isaiah - I did get the PM... see above. oops

@active - Yep, 1N4001s for the reverse-bias protection diodes.
Isaiah
negativspace wrote:
Sorry for absenteeing the last couple days, my mom's in town visiting this week and I'm playing host more than internetting.

@Isaiah - I did get the PM... see above. oops


No worries, hope you're having a good week. thumbs up
I'd be interested in your thoughts when you have a moment or two to spare. Rockin' Banana!
negativspace
The charge for the boards has appeared on my card, so I think this is imminent. I might as well open things up for payment.

The best way is Paypal - my address is jcoates42(at)gmail[dot]com. Please - and this is important - please tell me your Muffwiggler username in your payment notes. That helps me keep this all straight, which in turn helps you get your order quickly and correctly. hihi

The PCBs are $6.50 each. Shipping is $3 if you are in the USA, Canada or Mexico. Shipping is $6 if you are anywhere else on Earth.

I'll update the opening post with this information.
consumed
i just sent payment because i happened to check this thread
you might want to send pms out though, so your thread update does not slip by
rico loverde
Money sent.
Spanningtree
Payment sent, thanks for doing all of this!! thumbs up
ATOM
Money sent.

Thank you for your work on this pcb.

thumbs up ATOM
wwall
Payment sent.

Thanks for your generosity!
djangosfire
Payment sent for 4x boards - Thanks in advance!

- Adam
a100user
Payment sent Jason

thumbs up
Rod Serling Fan Club
payment sent
negativspace
Thanks, everyone. Just to be clear - PMs will go out when I have the boards on hand for those who have not paid by then. I've just had a few inquiries about early payment, so I thought I'd open it up. People gotta budget. thumbs up

I added a BOM to the original post, here it is. Later today I will make it 'active' with links to Mouser:

BOM:

Resistors - 1%
[1] 33K (+/-12v operation) or 47K (+/-15v operation)
[6] 47k
[1] 4.7k
[1] 1k
[1] 680R (680 Ohm)

Capacitors
[2] 10uF/22uF electrolytic
[2] 100nF (0.1uF) ceramic
[1] 1uF electrolytic

Semis/ICs
[2] 1N4001
[1] TL074
[1] LED*

Misc.
[1] 10k Trimpot
[2] Ferrite Bead
[1] 10-pin Euro or 4-pin MTA-156 (MOTM)

Pots
[2] 50k Linear
[1] 1M, I used linear but LOG would also work.

* - Either a 2-wire bi-color LED or two regular LEDs can be fitted. I use bi-colors but the layout supports both.
Spanningtree
negativspace wrote:


Working perfectly, and damned good fun. It's motherfucking bacon yo


@negativespace: I'd be up for ordering two of these panels. How much are they? Good to see the BOM, thanks again!
beautyofdecay_
Payment sent for 4 PCBs!
DannoGeeRay
Payments sent for 2 boards.
moellhoven
Payment sent for 4 PCBs.
negativspace
Spanningtree wrote:

@negativespace: I'd be up for ordering two of these panels. How much are they?


A small panel run is going to happen, I need at least one more for myself and there is interest in another 4. I can do it for $65 + shipping, which will be the same cost as the PCBs. ($3 + $3 overseas.) Right now I have interest from:

A100user [2]
Spanningtree [2]
gwaidan [1]
wwall [2]
active [1]


Will need to order these roughly next weekend, let's say June 5. Anyone else who is interested, you know what to do. 8_)

(Those of you listed above, I realize I have no firm commitments from you. If you're not interested, just let me know!)
a100user
Best make that two panels for me please as I order 4 boards thumbs up
wmonk
Someone asked me to offer part kits for this project. So if you're interested in a kit, PM me or go to my website. Oh, and say which power connector you need w00t

Oh, and I am located in Europe!

Cheers,
Woody
Isaiah
I was just wondering, does the PCB allow for the use of centre-detent pots (for Offset and Polarisation),
not just physically, but electronically?
Could the detented positions be trimmed to zero?
I see there's one trim-pot on the PCB, what does that adjust?

Cheers!
Junk Rhythm
Isaiah wrote:
I was just wondering, does the PCB allow for the use of centre-detent pots (for Offset and Polarisation),
not just physically, but electronically?
Could the detented positions be trimmed to zero?
I see there's one trim-pot on the PCB, what does that adjust?

Cheers!


The trim pot is for trimming the Offset parameter to zero at the center.
SMS303
Payment SENT! w00t
303monkey
Payment sent
kupfer_m
Payment sent for 2 PCB's!

Thanks
tomcat
Painpaled - Thanks a lot! thumbs up
negativspace
Thanks, everyone. These ought to be on their way to me toward the end of this week. It's motherfucking bacon yo

Any more takers on the panels?
wwall
I'm in for two panels.
Isaiah
Payment sent for 4 PCBs It's peanut butter jelly time!
negativspace
wwall wrote:
I'm in for two panels.


The list a couple posts back is updated.
gaslampmusehog
paid for 4 boards

thank you again
Dego
paid smile
bluedonkey
Payment sent.

Thanks for doing this.
active
payment sent for 4 boards. !.
hyper
i'd also be down for one faceplate. sign me up!
mome rath
paid for 2x PCB Guinness ftw!
emdot_ambient
Payment sent for quadro! It's motherfucking bacon yo
chocolatyshatner
Sent payment for four boards.
negativspace
Just got an email telling me the order has shipped. Won't be long! It's motherfucking bacon yo
fonik
applause
decaying.sine
thumbs up
arrmcbain
Payment sent for 2 boards
boothnavy
Paypaled for six. Thank you.
Funky40
gonna pay end of the week,
my transfer to paypal was misdated.

i'd like to see the vertical/ horizontal distance between the pots of your frontpanel.
negativspace
Funky40 wrote:

i'd like to see the vertical/ horizontal distance between the pots of your frontpanel.


The pots are spaced 1.2" from each other in the columns, and the two vertical columns are spaced ~22 mm apart horizontally.
scozbor
paid for 2 pcb thumbs up
mig27
And payed!
Thanks for this lovely project!

Michael
negativspace
Well, guess what showed up on my doorstep today - a day before FedEx claimed... (That never happens. eek!)

I'm going to build one before I start packing these things up and shipping them out - if there's a problem I'd like to know about it first. PMs for the remaining unpaid orders will go out once that's done and I will begin packing paid orders tonight - assuming no issues.

Thanks again, everyone! It's motherfucking bacon yo
fonik
you are doing a great job, i think. thumbs up
Junk Rhythm
negativspace wrote:
Thanks again, everyone! It's motherfucking bacon yo


The thanks goes to you!!! It's motherfucking bacon yo
negativspace
oops Thanks, guys. Guinness ftw!

I'm building one up now, and I went ahead and added some links to the BOM in the first post.
negativspace
Ok, boards are good! thumbs up

Time to put on the Shipping Department hat & get to work. I'll also be composing a lovely form letter and PMing where appropriate.
decaying.sine
Lightning fast!
notimeforlove
awesome, more boards to add to the pile. Payment sent for 4.
tailwagger
Payment sent for 8 boards........

Thanks Jason!!!
Neutron7
payment sent /2.586206896551724
negativspace
Ok... most of the paid domestic orders are packed. I'll be picking up mailing supplies for the international shipments tomorrow. Also, PMs are sent. If you're expecting one and did not get it, please let me know.

Now it's time to rest my writing hand. razz
a100user
If you mean PM's sent to people who've paid then not got mine but I'm not domestic so that maybe confusion on my part hmmm.....
negativspace
Yes, PMs were sent to everyone who had not paid. (Or at least those I had not marked as paid.)

Also, I'm going to order the panels tonight. I have a total of 10 spoken for - red indicates payment received:

A100user [2]
Spanningtree [2]
gwaidan [1]
wwall [2]
active [1]
lazerkind [2]


Cost on these will be $65 each. Also, remember that this panel needs an external mixer circuit to be completed as-shown. I'd like to stock up on enough CGS04 PCBs to cover you guys since Ken has a minimum order restriction that would prevent you from ordering just one or two for yourself. As long as he doesn't have a problem with that (I've asked) then you'll be able to get one from me. They'll be here before the panels are done, if history is any indicator.

[edit: Ken's cool with it. I'll have them for $5 each. Only one needed per panel.]
lazerkind
Hope I'm not too late to sign up for two panels?
//L
negativspace
Nope. 8_)

CGS04s will be available through me for $5 apiece for those of you buying panels.
lazerkind
Great, w00t

Just give a shout when we should pay for the panels and mixers.
//L
negativspace
You're welcome to pay any time, but as with the PCBs themselves I will send PMs once they are in-hand and ready to ship. If you'd like to wait until that time, that's OK too.
303monkey
Is anyone making a buchla panel for this pcb
negativspace
The first bunch of shipments is out, 39 total. screaming goo yo

I've restocked the mail room, so I'm diving into the rest. If you've paid already, I should have yours in the mail tomorrow - unless it went out today of course.
rico loverde
should i be worried if i haven't gotten a pm
decaying.sine
I sent payment for 8 a couple weeks ago, give or take. If I read correctly, you wouldn't be sending me a PM unless I didn't pay, richtig oder falsch?

That's the only time I have been able to use my 3 semesters of college German SlayerBadger!
negativspace
Richtig. PMs only went out to those who'd not yet paid.

That's just about as much as I've used my 4... although that's going to change in July when I'm there for 3 weeks. hihi

Yours are in the mail, both of you. You should see 'em Thursday/Friday.
wwall
negativspace wrote:
Also, I'm going to order the panels tonight.

...snip...

[edit: Ken's cool with it. I'll have them for $5 each. Only one needed per panel.]


Thanks so much for organizing the availability of the panels and the CGS04 PCBs. And for the Mouser links in the BOM. All this will make it a lot easier to get this module making music.
djangosfire
303monkey wrote:
Is anyone making a buchla panel for this pcb


I sure hope so smile Anyone?
active
how much you you like for shipping for the panel and the mixer PCB? can't wait!!!!
lazerkind
Panel payment on the way w00t
//L
iopop
djangosfire wrote:
303monkey wrote:
Is anyone making a buchla panel for this pcb


I sure hope so smile Anyone?

Had a go on a 8 pcb version a few pages back. Failed miserably, havnt had the time to make a new one. Will probably go for a quad layout with banans and led below the pots.
negativspace
active wrote:
how much you you like for shipping for the panel and the mixer PCB? can't wait!!!!


I'll ship the panel orders for free, you guys bumped the order up to 10 in the end which got us another 10% off. screaming goo yo
a100user
screaming goo yo indeed thumbs up
wwall
PCBs received in today's mail!
decaying.sine
PCB's arrived here too. Ninja shipping!
negativspace
There aren't too many things about which I can say "It's lucky I live in Kansas" - but shipping time with USPS is one of those things. It's 3 days max to just about anywhere from here. hihi
diophantine
Got mine too; thanks!

I'm curious what sort of material the pads are - since they're white. The boards look so slick & sexy. Had to test the conductivity to convince myself that I wasn't dreaming. ;-)
decaying.sine
diophantine wrote:
Got mine too; thanks!

I'm curious what sort of material the pads are - since they're white. The boards look so slick & sexy. Had to test the conductivity to convince myself that I wasn't dreaming. ;-)


farm raised unicorn horn pads. you don't even need to solder the parts. they magically bond with the pads with just a little rainbow exposure and a smile.
diophantine
decaying.sine wrote:
diophantine wrote:
Got mine too; thanks!

I'm curious what sort of material the pads are - since they're white. The boards look so slick & sexy. Had to test the conductivity to convince myself that I wasn't dreaming. ;-)


farm raised unicorn horn pads. you don't even need to solder the parts. they magically bond with the pads with just a little rainbow exposure and a smile.

Haha!
Though, I'm surprised it isn't unicorn foreskin powder dried in rainbow-light!
negativspace
That would have cost way extra.
Norman_Phay
Paid for these, sorry for the delay.
negativspace
No worries!

Everyone who has paid has had their order shipped with the exception of those who are wanting to combine panels and boards. There's a few PCBs left over if anyone needs/wants them. (There are a very few unpaid orders remaining, but I'm reserving their boards for a couple of weeks at least... the extras are truly extras. Have at 'em.)

Thanks again, wigglers. w00t
bwhittington
This may be a really lazy question since I haven't waded through the entire thread, but has anyone compiled a Mouser (or other retailer) compatible BOM? I'm quite new to DIY, and following someone else's lead would literally save me hours of trying to decide between all of the parts available.

Cheers,
Brian
negativspace
Check the first post, I added active Mouser links to a lot of the parts on the BOM. thumbs up
Spanningtree
I received the PCBs today, thanks! I also just paid for the panels. This will be a great project. Thanks again for putting this all together! Rockin' Banana! It's motherfucking bacon yo
rico loverde
got mine!!! thanx again...
active
got mine! look beautiful! will probably get around to soldering it next week. thanks again!
active
wiggle on, brother!
DannoGeeRay
Got my PCB's today. Thanks.
DannoGeeRay
Are there build docs for this available?
tailwagger
PCB's pulled out of the mail vault today........Thanks!
beautyofdecay_
djangosfire wrote:
303monkey wrote:
Is anyone making a buchla panel for this pcb


I sure hope so smile Anyone?


Something like this? wink

As I'm also ordering a bunch of other panels myself I could order some extra panels for people interested. Depending on the number of panels I think the price per panel would be somewhere between 30 and 35 Euros (2mm Alu panel with holes drilled)

*EDIT: panel design updated
303monkey
Thats what I was looking for.
nanners
beautyofdecay_
Mmm, I just realised. The panel is designed for use with banana plugs so I don't need two outputs per channel...
I have uploaded the updated panel design in my previous post.
Rod Serling Fan Club
What other panels are you working on?
iopop
Thats really nice, can you use the pcb mounted pots with that layout? ie. 1.2" between the holes.
beautyofdecay_
No, sorry. They're not 1.2" apart as that wouldn't fit all controls and banana's in 1 neat line.
beautyofdecay_
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
What other panels are you working on?


Well I'm planning to fill up an 18 panel cabinet I built (http://www.ecalpemos.nl/2011/04/25/buchla200-custom-cabinet-almost-do ne/)...
It will contain 230, 281, 291, 292, ian fritz chaos, ian fritz t/g/t/s&h, midi/logic, matrix mixer, mutant complex waveform generator, quad control voltage processor and perhaps a sequencer.
iopop
Boards arrived today! Thanx for organizing this.
nickciontea
never got any confirmation after my payment..(which was 4-5 days late)

hoping all is well and they are on their way..
bwhittington
beautyofdecay_ wrote:
Well I'm planning to fill up an 18 panel cabinet I built (http://www.ecalpemos.nl/2011/04/25/buchla200-custom-cabinet-almost-do ne/)...


Man, I like your style!

Cheers,
Brian
bwhittington
negativspace wrote:
Check the first post, I added active Mouser links to a lot of the parts on the BOM. thumbs up


Thank you very much, sir! Should have noticed that.

Cheers,
Brian
active
mine are mostly stuffed! will hopefully test this out later tonight. are there any FPD files for the faceplates we are getting? that way i can get a dummy panel up to test before the actual panels come in?
negativspace
nickciontea wrote:
never got any confirmation after my payment..(which was 4-5 days late)

hoping all is well and they are on their way..


negativspace wrote:

Everyone who has paid has had their order shipped with the exception of those who are wanting to combine panels and boards.


... no exceptions. 8_)
emdot_ambient
Got back from my CA trip to find my PCBs had arrived. thumbs up
lazerkind
PCBs arrived here as well.
w00t
djangosfire
my 4x pcbs arrived - awesome, thanks!
Blinkar blå
4 PCBs arrived safely, thanks!
a100user
Four lovely PCB's arrived here in the UK today.

many thanks Jason.

Drop me a PM when you want payment for the two front panels.

Cheers

David
active
ok, so mine are all stuffed and got a rough faceplate together last night. hyper
sadly the next few days are crazy busy for me. Dead Banana Dead Banana i'll try to wire it up tonight, if not it won't be till the weekend. once i do i'll post some videos or something!
rosch
mine arrived today! thanks!!!!!!!!
SMS303
Got's mine today toooooooooooooo!!!! screaming goo yo SlayerBadger! w00t
e-grad
Got mine! It's motherfucking bacon yo
Cat-A-Tonic
8 boards arrived in Japan w00t
beautyofdecay_
Boards received OK. Thanks!
Peake
Got 'em, thanks!
negativspace
I see the post is running smoothly this week, I'm impressed that they've made it to Japan and Sweden so quickly. Small damned world. hihi

Those of you who've ordered panels: FPE shipped the order yesterday. I'll send PMs to those who have not yet paid when they arrive - probably next Monday but possibly this Friday. CGS boards came yesterday.
suitandtieguy
where is the schematic posted at?

Mike's over here putting these together and i suggested he sub 49.9K for 47K ... i wanted to see where they were used to verify this would be OK. i mean, i'd bet my life on it being OK but just for curiosity's sake.
negativspace
I did not make any changes to Matthias' version of the circuit save the power input stuff... the schematic is in his documentation HERE.
suitandtieguy
cool awesome!

(on a side note: doh! very frustrating)
kupfer_m
My 2 boards arrived yesterday!
Isaiah
4 PCBs arrived yesterday. Thanks!
falafelbiels
Casper gave me two of these, so now I'm looking into them. Funny thing, I believe I saw bi-color leds mentioned somewhere and I have some I'd like to use. It's just these are common cathode and I have no clue how to hook these up. Anybody?
Add a dual opamp wired as inverter?
303monkey
My Boards arrived today.
Many thanks
Boba Fett
falafelbiels
Got my answer...
w00t
limpmeat
nice boards!
negativspace
suitandtieguy wrote:
cool awesome!

(on a side note: doh! very frustrating)


Nah, it's a perfectly valid question, especially at 1 in the morning. I'd wanted to update the build docs for this specific PCB but have not found the time. Dead Banana
iopop
Had a go at the boards yesterday. Most things are stuffed, was out of 680R and 1N4001. Have no panel either, so will have to test later.
SMS303
falafelbiels wrote:
Casper gave me two of these

Yeah i had to fullfill another karma-quest and did it with a small good deed Mr. Green
falafelbiels wrote:
I believe I saw bi-color leds mentioned

falafelbiels wrote:
Got my answer...

The kit-sourcerer will include bi-color leds for us applause
moellhoven
Got my boards today. Thank you.
mig27
4 boards received in Berlin.
Nice quality!

Thanks for making this project happen w00t
ATOM
Got my boards Guinness ftw!

ATOM
wwall
Can anyone point me to a source for some 1M pots? I haven't been able to find any suitable at Mouser or Digikey. If it makes any difference, for the 50k I selected Bournes PTD901-1015K-B503. Any help on sourcing similar 1M pots would be appreciated.
negativspace
I may be showing off my lack of true electronics knowledge here, but can one simply double the value of the 1uF cap and halve the value of the pot?
wwall
negativspace wrote:
I may be showing off my lack of true electronics knowledge here, but can one simply double the value of the 1uF cap and halve the value of the pot?


I think that would work and thought of doing that, but 500K pots seem to be rare also. Maybe multiply the cap by 10 and use a 100k pot? I'm not sure if that would knock things too far out of whack.
emdot_ambient
Small Bear Electronics usually has 1M pots, though I only look for alpha 16mm, so if you're wanting higher end pots they probably won't do.
wwall
emdot_ambient wrote:
Small Bear Electronics usually has 1M pots, though I only look for alpha 16mm, so if you're wanting higher end pots they probably won't do.


Thanks for the tip! I'll keep them in mind if I decide not to mess around with changing component values.
negativspace
The panels are in, those of you who have paid up will have yours en route tomorrow. thumbs up
LektroiD
If these are still up for grabs, I'll grab a couple of PCBs for sure.
active
woooooo! It's peanut butter jelly time!
wwall
Panels, PCBs & components have all arrived. Thanks, Jason!

Now all I need is some time to assemble it all.
arrmcbain
My boards arrived a few days ago. Thanks! applause

Adding them to the pile! hihi
negativspace
I'm glad I could help contribute to your heaps. hihi

I have one last unshipped-but-paid-for order to Canada - thanks, postal lockout - but aside from that everyone should either have their orders or should be receiving them very soon. There is a meager handful of spares remaining, first come/first served on those.

Thanks again to everyone - fonik most of all for letting us play with his circuit, but without all of your orders it wouldn't have been a successful endeavor. Cheers, everyone! This was fun. Guinness ftw!
active
got the panel in nyc on friday! looks beautiful! wil try to wire it up this week!
LektroiD
Not entirely sure how to wire this.. Looking at the panels posted earlier in the thread (with mix out / switches etc), the board doesn't indicate where these should be wired. Also what does P1, P2 & P3 correspond to? hmmm.....

Has anyone drawn up a wiring diagram?

Apologies for being such a noob d'oh!
active
LektroiD wrote:
Not entirely sure how to wire this.. Looking at the panels posted earlier in the thread (with mix out / switches etc), the board doesn't indicate where these should be wired. Also what does P1, P2 & P3 correspond to? hmmm.....

Has anyone drawn up a wiring diagram?

Apologies for being such a noob d'oh!


you beat me to this question!

the mix element is actually another board by CGS that is a simple mix circuit and not part of the buchlidian voltage processor.

as far as the wiring, i think i figured out everything except the switch...
wmonk
Got em today! Thanks Jason! we're not worthy
negativspace
LektroiD wrote:
Not entirely sure how to wire this.. Looking at the panels posted earlier in the thread (with mix out / switches etc), the board doesn't indicate where these should be wired. Also what does P1, P2 & P3 correspond to? hmmm.....


Top = P1 = Offset
Middle = P2 = Glide
Bottom = P3 = Level

The mixer is indeed an external function - I added it to my panel to fill the otherwise-leftover space at the bottom. Same with the switch! I simply ran the output through the ON-OFF-(ON) switch so that the channel can be muted/left on/manually injected as necessary. The output can just as easily be run to a jack and left alone.
theabsent
Built one - really nice. Output attenuator works reversed?
negativspace
It shouldn't be reversed... mine aren't! I just grabbed the meter to double-check. Offset and Attenuator both function with - CCW and + CW.
wwall
negativspace wrote:
The mixer is indeed an external function - I added it to my panel to fill the otherwise-leftover space at the bottom.


Where did you take the (-) output from the CGS04? Point C looks like a likely candidate. Should I just wire from there to the jack?
negativspace
Yep, pull it from the pad marked 'C.' I can't recall offhand whether or not I ran it through a 1k resistor on the way to the jacks... I don't think I did.
gwaidan
Just got mine today, thank you!!!! hyper

Just a question-the Euro panel has the two pot rows quite closely spaced to each other and to the jacks on either side. 16mm Alphas don't look like they'll fit-what pots do you recommend?

(PS I'd like to keep the pots board-mounted if possible)
negativspace
You're right, 16mm pots won't fit both rows. I used Alpha 9mm pots from Small Bear in mine. (Actually, I used 9mm pots on one side and 16mm pots on the other because I have a huge leftover stock of 16mms in the correct values. That works just fine. hihi )

Checking on stock it looks like Small Bear is out of the 50k Lin... I asked Steve about his 9mm/100k stock last week and he said Sept. 1, so I will assume the 50k stock is coming at the same time.
gwaidan
Thanks for the heads-up! Time for another Smallbear order...
negativspace
It looks like Mouser has them in stock, but they're a good deal more expensive than @ Small Bear. At least they're available before September.
active
since i don't have it in front of me (im stuck at work), what size biLED does the faceplate we ordered from you fit? thanks!
negativspace
I used these.
lazerkind
Just picked up my set of panels from negative space.
They look even better in real life love
Thanks! we're not worthy
active
thanks negativespace!!!
emdot_ambient
Stuffed 4 PCBs last night...except the diodes. Could have sworn I had 4001s in stock...nope. I have 4002s and 4004s, but no 4001s.
very frustrating
And I have no clue how the LEDs get wired up. I'm going to be using single colored...so any help there would be...helpful.
negativspace
You'll need 2 LEDs, obviously, one for positive and one for negative swings. Pads for these are labelled 'POS' and 'NEG' and I think the square pad is for the anode. (Long lead, right?)
boothnavy
So for a dual led w 2 legs, does it matter which side you use? Or do you have to wire the anode to one side and the cathode to the other?
negativspace
Nope, the only thing that matters with the 2-lead bi-colors is that you flip it so that it 'reads' correctly. Either side will work, though one will show green=pos/red=neg unless you flip the LED around with the cathode to square. (The 'NEG' side, assuming I labelled them correctly.)
falafelbiels
Wellllll I got one working tonight. It's a dead handy circuit and one just has to love a utilitymodule with blinkenlights on. Bi-color even!

Now, that level-pot is attenuverting, right?
theabsent
... del
gwaidan
emdot_ambient wrote:
Stuffed 4 PCBs last night...except the diodes. Could have sworn I had 4001s in stock...nope. I have 4002s and 4004s, but no 4001s.


They're just reverse polarity protection-your 4002s should be fine. I used 4004s in mine...

BTW-the glide pot has a lot of variation in its first quarter of travel and not much in the last half. Has anyone tried a log/audio taper pot for this one?
Junk Rhythm
negativspace wrote:
You're right, 16mm pots won't fit both rows. I used Alpha 9mm pots from Small Bear in mine. (Actually, I used 9mm pots on one side and 16mm pots on the other because I have a huge leftover stock of 16mms in the correct values. That works just fine. hihi )

Checking on stock it looks like Small Bear is out of the 50k Lin... I asked Steve about his 9mm/100k stock last week and he said Sept. 1, so I will assume the 50k stock is coming at the same time.


These pots are back in stock at Small Bear Electronics.
negativspace
Writing on my droid from Germany... so nice over here.

Yes, the level control is attenuverting. There's no reason not to play with the taper on the glide pot. I had a bag of 1meg linears so I used those but any taper which feels right is fine. thumbs up

And thanks for the heads-up on pots, maybe I should order a big bag while I'm over here... I need a couple hundred for my next mixer run. It's motherfucking bacon yo
fonik
negativspace wrote:
Writing on my droid from Germany... so nice over here.

w00t
negativspace
w00t indeed!

(Would you like to adopt a 32-year-old employed son with solid DIY skills? I would gladly make the move... lol )
wwall
gwaidan wrote:
BTW-the glide pot has a lot of variation in its first quarter of travel and not much in the last half. Has anyone tried a log/audio taper pot for this one?


I used log taper on mine but haven't finished building them up yet. Hopefully I'll finish this weekend. I figured since the glide was a time-related function that log taper would make sense for it. We'll see...
mikecameron
I used a log taper on the glide and also changed the cap to 10uf for increased range. (Thanks for the suggestion STG!) Thought about putting a switch for range selection between 1uf and 10uf but in the end built 2 of each variation in the same 16hp panel. I dont have a photo of the finished module, but here's the rendering for the panel.

emdot_ambient
Here's my quad design based on a 2U wide MOTM panel but not using the standard MOTM grid or knob sizes. This is a standard I've been working with for a bit in design, haven't actually ordered any panels in it yet.

All the drill holes for pots are for 16mm alphas using.

The knob graphics are for 0.5" diameter knobs (I'm using natural aluminum Alco knobs).

The +/- LED drill holes are made to fit the chrome LED bezels I have (5mm LEDs, 0.315" drill hole). I think they look quite good on a black panel.

The jacks are set just about as close as they possibly can be, but I've tested mock ups and they do fit.

The switches up top I haven't sourced, but they're ON-Off-(ON) just like on negativspace's.

And finally, it does use the additional mixer circuit, only I'm using switched pots on the LEVEL controls. Pushed in they connect that particular CV processor to the mixer. Pulled out and that processor is disconnected to the mixer.
emdot_ambient
mikecameron wrote:
I used a log taper on the glide and also changed the cap to 10uf for increased range.

thumbs up OK, so now I've got to add a push/pull switched pot to the Glide also.

It's motherfucking bacon yo
negativspace
I love the various panel designs, guys! Good job working with my wonky pot spacing. oops

For the switches in mine I went with flat-lever NKK parts from Mouser. They're from the same series that paults got me hooked on when I did the E350 expanders. They cost a bit, but I love 'em. I'd fish up a link but the thought of navigating Mouser's site on a smartphone terrifies me profoundly.
emdot_ambient
That's what I use. I've got a huge bag of various switches I bought looking for good but inexpensive brands...found out that the only ones I really like are the muy expensive NKK ones, and I prefer the flatted bat, which are even rarer. Oh well. You only pay for them on credit once (not including interest).

Oh, and I'm not using PCB mounted pots. I'll be mounting these on a bracket somehow and running wires. Fortunately, 3-position MTS-100 wire post thingies fit where the pots are supposed to, so the wiring should be a doddle.
negativspace
Yeah, I agree on the flatted bats. I always thought they looked awful until I tried them for myself, and now I love them... and I'm definitely a NKK fan now too. That said, I have had good results with slightly-cheaper Mountain switches as well. I still use those in some of my own modules.

Spacing for small headers was part of my design plan, so I'm glad to see it being useful! Tried to cover every contingency within reason but this was my first PCB... never know how that's going to work out. thumbs up
Junk Rhythm
This is the direction I'm taking mine in:



Needs a bit more fine tuning and then some test prints before I commit to four panels.
jarvis
I'm slowly moving my DIY production from Euro format to Buchla sized panels. This will be the 2nd module in that shift.

The panel is a mix of 4 CV processors and a YuSynth dual min/max. I'm adding an "all" in to the CV processors. A single wave on the input could be slewed/offset/attenuated by each of the processors and then summed. Awkwardly dubbed "distribulator". Could be fun, could be boring, how knows? I had panel space to fill!

emdot_ambient
jarvis wrote:
I'm adding an "all" in to the CV processors. A single wave on the input could be slewed/offset/attenuated by each of the processors and then summed...

Interesting. With 1/4" switched jacks that could be done with normalized wiring behind the panel...connect #1 to #2 to #3 to #4. Plugging a wire into #2 would disconnect input #1, but cascade #2 to #3 and #4.

Using the individual outputs would then let you run one CV through up to 4 Offsets/Glide/Attenuate processors, allowing some pretty interesting but related CV signals to be generated.

The YuSynth Min/Max is an interesting and well chosen addition... hmmm..... Difficult to add to my current configuration.
iopop
I really like the idea with the dual min/max!

Personally I'd remove the vertical lines on the voltage processor. You get a more clear visual signal flow from left to right if doing so. Then again if you remove it, it might look a bit empty. seriously, i just don't get it sorry..
jarvis
Hopefully this is the final design. I added toggles to switch between "cascade" (good idea emdot!), "independent", and "sum" modes for each channel. Cascade will feed the channel output to the input of the channel below it (the last will feed back up to the first), "independent" will just not route the channel output to the summer nor cascade, and "sum" will add the channel output to the summed output (though the individual out will still be active). Also removed the vertical lines as per iopop's suggestion w00t

emdot_ambient
thumbs up Minus the vertical lines makes it look much cleaner.
diophantine
jarvis wrote:

Looks great; I agree, the removal of the vertical lines did wonders!

Love the little design for the min/max!
negativspace
That looks great! I thought about a min/max to fill the bottom part of the Euro panels I made too, but ended up going mixer instead... nice choice to take it in that direction. thumbs up
jarvis
Thanks doods!
Junk Rhythm
Junk Rhythm wrote:


I was contacted via PM inquiring whether or not I would be interested in doing a run of my panel for Eurorack DIY users. I would love to offer it to anyone interested. If this happens I will be going with the Metal Photo process that is commonly used on Eurorack production modules. So to guage interest, is anyone interested? The panel is 4HP, uses the same potentiometer placement as the PCB as long as you are using the 9mm alpha pots that Negativespace suggested in the BOM. I've chatted with Negativespace about offering the panel and he said okay.

I would like to get the price down around $12 each including shipping within the US. Shipping outside the US will add a bit more but I need to research first. I mocked the panel up via FPE to get a price to beat and FPE was at $14.49 without engraving, shipping, infill, and tax. I think we can beat that.

The above panel is close to what I am going for. I've added more tick marks around the knobs and tightend up the placement a bit more. I'll post the revised version this evening after work. If anyone is interested hit me up via PM and I'll start making a list.
mome rath
ok, how should i use this to make sure it works oops
negativspace
I start with an offset from my MH01, testing full positive and negative swings to make sure the LED(s) is/are showing correctly & the offset control works. I take the output into another module with a bipolar display (A-172, most often) to make sure the output matches the LED(s) and is right-way-round as far as polarity. (No need to test this unless you wired the pots offboard... if you did and polarity is screwy then you simply have a pot backwards.)

Then I plug in an LFO to make sure the attenuation bit works, then also to the 172 to make sure the slew works. (The Processor's LED won't reflect the slew but anything downstream will.)
Hi5
Are any boards still left?
negativspace
A handful, yes.
mome rath
ok, mine is nothing more than a light show, apparently

i'm not sure how i managed to mess up a project with about 15 parts, but i did

edit: it does stuff only if I touch the TL084s :(
boothnavy
mome rath wrote:
ok, mine is nothing more than a light show, apparently

i'm not sure how i managed to mess up a project with about 15 parts, but i did

edit: it does stuff only if I touch the TL084s :(


Yeah but every modular needs a light show module!
mome rath
anybody else use 84s for theirs? maybe if I swap them out with 74s seriously, i just don't get it
e-grad
A TL084 should just work fine.

mome rath wrote:
it does stuff only if I touch the TL084s :(

I guess, that's a bad contact either a bad solder joint or the chip does not sit neatly in its socket.

Possibly every time you touch the chip you will put a little stress on the board which could effect other joints on the board. Thus if you can't find a bad joint directly at the IC check the other ones.
negativspace
Last time I had that exact problem (w/ a YuSynth Diode Ladder VCF) I just went to sleep on the problem. The next morning I saw at my very first glance that I'd forgotten to solder one side of the IC pins. Dead Banana

Hope your solution is so simple!

Edit: In other news, I'm down to 8 boards left in the stash and 4 of them are spoken for. If you want a few more, now would be the time.
rico loverde
just wanted to thank negativespace, built mine yesterday and its great.
mome rath
negativspace wrote:
I just went to sleep on the problem.




after a rather frustrating day, I chose to attack these again with a fresh and optimistic outlook!!!

after I re-hit every joint and rewired the power connector, they didn't work at all, so i smashed them to bits with a hammer and threw them away


BOOM!
negativspace
d'oh! Dead Banana
active
just finished the dual BVP and have them all mounted to the faceplate, will post a picture soon!

just curious how you have the CGS04 wired together in that? what i/o are you using and how much of the board are you actually using? a picture of your board would be super helpful!
negativspace
The last of the spares hve been claimed - there are no more. If there's enough demand in a few months I'll consider a second run but until then, build 'em if ya got 'em. Thanks again, everyone!
boothnavy
you guys are gonna shit when you see mine...
clorax hurd
money sent for the last two pcbs :bacon:
frozenkore
Oops!
camelneck
I just discovered this thread today. (It seems like I always find things a day too late.)

Have all of the PCBs that were for sale been sold?

If so, are there any plans to do another run anytime soon?

I definitely want 2 of these!

David
negativspace
Hiya camelneck, and welcome to Muff's! w00t

Unfortunately they have all been sold. I do plan to offer another batch in the not-too-distant future, but it will likely be a few months yet as demand is still pretty minimal right now.
emdot_ambient
boothnavy wrote:
you guys are gonna shit when you see mine...

Then I want to see them...been a bit constipated lately eek!

hihi
Junk Rhythm
They might be tiny, but don't let the size fool you. These guys are super useful little fellas.

...No blinky, blinky or graphics at the moment but that will be resolved soon enough.
rico loverde
Looks great George!
zenke
IF any more of these PCBs become available I would be interested
Veqtor
Yes, me too, don't know how I could've missed this! Would be great if someone would make a run of euro-rack panels!
negativspace
Aren't Junk Rhythm's panels going to be made available? That was the original plan, at least, and I support the effort enthusiastically.

As for the PCBs... I'm fully interested in doing another run, but I want to wait a little while. I've been "planning" a second round sometime around the end of 2011. I need about 50 orders minimum to make it happen, and hopefully by then demand will be sufficient to reach that number.
fonik
@ Junk Rhythm
do i spot an attenuverting mixer as backup? w00t
Junk Rhythm
fonik You are correct. I've got a couple of them in my system and there is no way I would be without them.
Veqtor
I want 2 if there's a second round!
active
everything seems to work fine! all i need to do is get the mix working. woot!

bonusplays
I would do one or two if a re-run was in order.
Junk Rhythm
negativspace wrote:
Aren't Junk Rhythm's panels going to be made available? That was the original plan, at least, and I support the effort enthusiastically.


There hasn't been enough interest to make it a reality. I'm still interested in doing the run if anyone is interested. If anyone is interested, contact me via PM and I'll start a list of names.

I have punched the metal for the DIY test panels I made and everything worked out fine.
rico loverde
Junk Rhythm wrote:
negativspace wrote:
Aren't Junk Rhythm's panels going to be made available? That was the original plan, at least, and I support the effort enthusiastically.


There hasn't been enough interest to make it a reality. I'm still interested in doing the run if anyone is interested. If anyone is interested, contact me via PM and I'll start a list of names.

I have punched the metal for the DIY test panels I made and everything worked out fine.
im down for 3-4
negativspace
Maybe there will be renewed interest when the time comes for round 2. Frankly, I wanted to do some 4hp versions for myself - so I'll be interested in a few of the panels as well. hihi

@active: screaming goo yo
boothnavy
Ok boys, here it is. I know most of you are euro dudes, but here is some love from 5U land. Too bad I couldn't fit all 8 on there hihi

negativspace
Hey, as long as it's silver... hihi

Looks great, as does that 258j you posted. applause
iopop
Got a panel for this one, so time to finish it up, ie. order the pots. As for the 50k pots since they're both used as voltage dividers, a 100k pot would work as good, right?

Schematics can be found here.
demian
I am also in for two if there is a second run.
barka
I'm also in for two if there's a second run!
stainers
Yes yes, for the record, count me in
regenbot
i'll take two also
wavehead
In for 4 of these and euro panels if available after second run.

Also if anyone has extras I have a J258 pcb I could trade.
Monobass
2-4 on a second run, maybe even more.
negativspace
I'll get to work on round 2 sometime in late December. Since I won't need the 1.2" pot spacing to match a commission this time, I'm thinking about changing it to a more universal layout.

Suggestions? 1"? (hides)
Monobass
1" is fine, 0.8" is ok, a little bit tight.
negativspace
Ok, it's time to reopen this one. I need a few more of these and Matthias has kindly given his blessing on round 2. So let's do it! SlayerBadger!

I'd like to redesign the board to support a 1" spacing - which should give this one a little more universal appeal than the last. I'll be making a few other minor improvements as well, but the processor circuit itself will remain unchanged. If you have any objections or requests, now is the time. I'll do my best to accommodate as many formats as I possibly can.

I will update the first post of the thread with all current information & will keep track of the orderlist there as well.
rosch
i'd like to take 4 this time
astroschnautzer
Ill take 4
regenbot
2-4 for me depending on the final price
nangu
Are you doing euro panels for them again this time? I ended up with two from the last run and they look fantastic..
negativspace
Thank you!

I might do a 4hp Euro panel for them this time, but I will not be making any like the ones from the last run. I actually just finished one of those that I'd left half-done for about 2 months.
Monobass
how big is the PCB?
negativspace
Right now it's 1.5" x 3.2", but it may change slightly when I rework it.
mikecameron
Love the 4 I have, I'm in for 4 more!
bsmith
2 here please.
samuraipizzacat29
negativspace wrote:
Thank you!

I might do a 4hp Euro panel for them this time, but I will not be making any like the ones from the last run. I actually just finished one of those that I'd left half-done for about 2 months.


if you're making a 4hp panel, I'll take at least 4 pcbs and panels. If I have time to think about it, I'll prob take it to 8.
negativspace
Well, I want a couple of these in 4hp for myself - which is honestly what motivated the second run in the first place. So I'm definitely making the panel one way or another. I'd need to sell about 20 (plus my own) to make a MPC run affordable. I'll open that can of worms later, once I have a panel design to show off.
bensaddiction
I'd be down for one, maybe two pcb & 4hp panel combo
mono-poly
8 please
vlk
I'd be in for 2 pcbs.
kollo
2 for me!
ach_gott
4 for me!
carynrich
i'll take 2, thanks
barka
I'm still up for two, thanks!
clarke68
In for 2...thanks!
fivesteppath
I'll take 2, maybe 4 (depending on price)
negativspace
It's a little early to call a price, but we're up past the point where it will be under $10/ea.
simfonik
2 please!
Monobass
Ok I'll take 8 thumbs up
zdarma
4 for me, and would be interested in panels
Monobass
I wonder if stacking a pair of these behind an 8hp panel would give a shallower depth.[/u]
negativspace
They're already pretty shallow... they should be about 40mm deep when mounted. You'd be lucky to get them any less by stacking them, especially when you consider the power connector.
oberkorn
I'm up for 6 PCBs!
arsonus
2 for me please!
thumbs up
clorax hurd
4 pcbs for me. thanks
Spandex
4 PCBs please.
negativspace
Order list updated, we're nearing 100! Very good so far. Price/PCB starts really falling past 100. It's motherfucking bacon yo

I have not worked on the panel yet, but I have redesigned the PCB. I put provisions in place for using resettable fuses + 1N4001s as reverse-power protection, as well as beads. Fuse or bead can be replaced with a wire link, of course, and the diode can be left out - so build as much or as little of that section as you like. I crammed it all into the same footprint as the previous power input circuitry so the board did not grow as a result.

I will update the first post with the new artwork in the next 24 hours. I have not tested it, so this is subject to further change if the prototype is not right.
Pfurmel
Can you put me down for 2, please.
the bad producer
I'll take four please...
negativspace
Ok, artwork updated. thumbs up
djs
2 for me please!
LYD
4 for me please , thanks hyper
negativspace
Ok, so here's my first stab at a 4hp panel for this thing. I had to tweak the PCB size in order to make this work, so it's now just 1.5" x 2.9." (I had to shorten it to clear the jack bodies.)

The IN is obvious, and the multed OUT should be as well. 'TH' is the one spot I'm open to suggestions. Right now it's a mult of the IN jack, i.e. a THROUGH connection. I thought it might be cool to chain a couple of these together to process the same input signal differently for different destinations, and this configuration supports that. If anyone has a better idea, though, I'm glad to entertain it.

bensaddiction
are the two outs and the through buffered by any chance?

That would be a home run for a reliable slew to multiple oscs. No doubt it would take an extra dual opamp just for that and pcb size considerations etc.

Just wondering if it already does, not a deal breaker by any means
Monobass
negstivspace... nice panel, instead of 'th' maybe just an arrow pointing to the right?
johnchantler
I'd like 4 of these, please!

J.
mig27
4 PCBs for me please!
Great project!
negativspace
bensaddiction wrote:
are the two outs and the through buffered by any chance?

That would be a home run for a reliable slew to multiple oscs. No doubt it would take an extra dual opamp just for that and pcb size considerations etc.

Just wondering if it already does, not a deal breaker by any means


Originally, no. Both extra connections would be passive. However... I've redesigned the board a little bit and managed to find space for a DIP8 without increasing the size. (!)
negativspace
Also, I modified the output stage slightly and moved the output resistor inside the feedback loop of its attendant opamp. This should allow the module to drive several passively-multed outputs without any voltage loss.

Indeed, I kludged a modification on to my last PCB from round 1 and tested it out - it drives 4 VCOs without any loss, so the 2 outputs on the panel won't be an issue.

Assuming I got the through-buffer laid out properly, you'll have your wish. (And we'll have a much better module. Love this community!)
bensaddiction
@negativespace Awesome!
diophantine
What's the approx price on these new ones? I'd be up for 4, maybe 8...

I built up my 4 from the first run...haven't used them yet, but I have plans. I have plans. I have plans. hyper
negativspace
Sometimes I fear I have nothing but plans... hihi

It's looking like they'll be about $8/ea right now.
diophantine
negativspace wrote:
Sometimes I fear I have nothing but plans... hihi

Haha, tell me about it.

At least they are good plans, I hope?

negativspace wrote:
It's looking like they'll be about $8/ea right now.

Okay, you've bullied me enough right there, so just put me in for 8! hihi

d'oh!
DGTom
negativspace wrote:
I thought it might be cool to chain a couple of these together to process the same input signal differently for different destinations, and this configuration supports that.


Such a great looking & functional panel. This is something I do with my banana system alot, I'm loathe to put mults in my tiny minijack set-up but this is 4hp I could party with w00t
negativspace
Well, they're excellent plans. In fact, some are such good plans that I intend to leave them as-is, untarnished by any attempts at implementation. Dead Banana

DGTom wrote:
Such a great looking & functional panel. This is something I do with my banana system alot, I'm loathe to put mults in my tiny minijack set-up but this is 4hp I could party with w00t


I aim to please! Thanks for the high praise. The way I see it, it would be 4hp even if it only had the one in and one out, so these are just free jacks...

Monobass wrote:
negstivspace... nice panel, instead of 'th' maybe just an arrow pointing to the right?


Good call, I think.



One thing I've noticed is that the processor itself is not really accurate enough for pitch CVs. I'd still like to make the through-buffer accurate, I'm going to test out a couple of methods on perf before I order some testers. Depending on how deep I get into this, I might push the ordering deadline back...
ossi_fx
2 for me please!
fonik
negativspace wrote:
One thing I've noticed is that the processor itself is not really accurate enough for pitch CVs. I'd

one would have to use matched resistors, and/or trimmers to guarantee a 100% unity gain.
the offset would be a feature, not a bug hihi
negativspace
You know, the trimmer you have onboard already can be used to adjust the balance - I was able to get very close to exactly +/-1 gain on the attenuverter, although I had to turn the trimmer all the way to one end. A resistor/trimpot value tweak there might solve the issue, I'll have to test the trimmer to see if it's 'maxed' or 'minned.'

Regardless, my tinkering this evening was fruitful. Adjusted properly I get accurate response on the output driving 4 VCOs in parallel. I put an input buffer and output buffer (TL072) on stripboard, wired it to my little prototype as the input stage, and find that the THROUGH connection now also drives 4 VCOs in parallel with no voltage drop.

I think we're done here, it's time to move on to the panel discussion. It's motherfucking bacon yo
Mongo1
I'd like 4 please

Gary
negativspace
Indeed, changing the trimpot from 10k to 20k and the input resistor to the trimpot to 39k, the range is sufficient to achieve precisely +1 gain. It's motherfucking bacon yo

I just hooked up 6 VCOs, 4 to the output of the processor and two to the through connection. The multimeter says the voltages are stable at each VCO and they are all tracking well. (6 VCOs sounds massive, BTW.)

Now it's just a matter of verifying the revised layout with a prototype or two, I'll get those ordered after the new year. A panel is also on its way, so I'll be able to prototype the whole project. I'm extending the order date on these somewhat as I'd like to finish a prototype first - and my panel won't be here by the 7th.
Isaiah
Ah, I have 4 of the rev.1 PCBs that I haven't got around to building yet.
But now there are rev.2 PCBs and panels available, I'm going to order some of those and probably give the rev.1 boards to a friend.

Any idea on the cost of the panel please?
I'm interested in 2 please, maybe 3 or 4, but would like to have an estimate of the panel price before I commit please.

Cheers!
negativspace
The panel cost is highly dependent on the size of the order. I'm going to go back through the thread and add panel #s to the orderlist in post #1 just to see where we are.

For now, anyone who wants a panel should consider them ~$12-15/ea. I think we can achieve that based on the number of PCB orders thus far.
wavehead
I want 4 panels.
nangu
I'll take 12 PCBs + panels. Thanks!!
negativspace
I think that is enough to at least assure us of having a panel run - thanks, nangu!
regenbot
I'll take 2 x Panell + pcb ,please thumbs up
Isaiah
Count me in for 2 PCBs and 2 panels, please.
iopop
Four PCBs and two panels please.
DGTom
3 each, PCB + Panel for me please 8_)
keninverse
I'll take 2 (panel and pcb).
negativspace
Ok, seems like things are winding down here so I'm going to go ahead and set the price for the PCBs.

To update everyone, I've got a prototype PCB stuffed and am now waiting for the panel which shipped out on Friday. I'll be able to make sure the two work together sometime next week at which point I'll really get down to business.
ossi_fx
Hi,

I would like to add 2 more to my existing order to get total 4 PCBs.

Thanks
negativspace
Ok, good news! The prototype panel came today and I've wired it up. Seems that everything is working. Tested the reverse-power protection out and the diode + fuse thing works really, really well. Definitely worth the ~$0.60. Power to the rest of the rack didn't even flicker, and the module is undamaged.



The THROUGH buffer does the trick, passing the input voltage along faithfully. When properly trimmed the output will sit at a gain of exactly 1 and will drive the output mult. nanners

I'll be sending the panel design into MPC for a quote tomorrow. I'll probably hear back from them early next week, at which point I will finalize the price and cut off the ordering period.

If you'd like to make or change your order, do it this weekend!
clarke68
Minor update: I'm in for 2 PCBs and 1 panel. Great job on this!
asterisk
id like 2 pcbs and 2 panels (the 4hp ones) so i can build 2 modules. thanks!
Isaiah
The panel looks great! Fantastic work!

I'm tempted to update my update my order to 3 or 4 PCB & panel sets, but I don't think my budget will allow.

The THROUGH connection looks really useful for distributing signals around the modular. I can see why some people are ordering so many.
negativspace
Thanks guys, glad you like!

I'll be ordering a solid handful of spares, so you can pick up more later if you decide you need 'em. (While supplies last, of course. I usually over-order by ~20%.)
frozenkore
4 panels please.
astroschnautzer
I want two euro panels too...
Dego
id like 2 pcbs and 2 panels (the 4hp ones) so i can build 2 modules. thanks!
iopop
Dego: Woha, you finally took the step into euro?! smile
Dego
Haha. It is for a friend hihi
dogmeat
when does the offer expire?

EDIT: nevermind, i've seen it on the first page. i'm up for two.

two question though:
- i can find ferrite beads locally, but there are three winding options: 1.5, 2.5 and 3 windings, which should i get for this?
- since you've buffered ins and outs, and as i don't need the panel, can i make more than two multed ins/outs???
Spandex
Can I add 4 panels to go with my 4 PCBs please? Thx.
mikecameron
add 4 panels to go with my 4 boards!
LektroiD
dogmeat wrote:
- i can find ferrite beads locally, but there are three winding options: 1.5, 2.5 and 3 windings, which should i get for this?


I usually use resistors, anything between 10Ω - 22Ω should be ok. Plus if there's a problem with anything, they act as basic fuses, since they are the first to smoke. Cheaper than destroying an op-amp - and easier to replace.
negativspace
I've tested the out and through connection with 4 VCOs each, and they're fine. I had all 6 VCOs in my rack going in unison with one processor. In theory you should be able to do even more than that, depending on the input impedance of your destination modules.
dogmeat
thanks lektroid & negativ, my order remains, two pcbs please, no panels smile
hpsounds
4 panels and 4 PCB for me also !

hmmm..... SDIY seems very addictive ... oops

Hédi K.
negativspace
Alarmingly so... Dead Banana
asterisk
ive caught the bug really BAD! twisted
bsmith
I'd like two panels to go with the 2 pcb's please.
obscurerobot
I'd like four PCBs and four panels, please.
mamonu
one pcb for me please.
negativspace
Ok, looking at the numbers and applying that vs. my experience with 4hp panels @ MPC, I think I can go ahead and call the price on these. We're well over the threshold where they're only going to be dropping by a few cents as we add more.

Since the prices are now set, I'm also opening up payments. There is no need to pay until manufacturing is complete, but at least the option is now open.

The first post has been updated with the relevant information, as usual. It's motherfucking bacon yo
gwaidan
2 PCBs and 2 panels please...
Pfurmel
negativspace wrote:


The PANEL price will be $12.00/ea. The PCB price will be $8.00/ea, and there will be a $3 shipping charge per order. I will gladly ship overseas for an extra $3 per order. Those of you ordering both panels and PCBs still only need to pay one shipping/intl. charge per order.


Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Does this mean $6 shipping for international?
negativspace
Yessir!
Pfurmel
thumbs up
negativspace
Ok, I got the quote back from MPC today and I've put in the order - so this is finally closed. I ordered plenty of extras, so if you do come in late just send me a PM.

Turnaround time on panels is roughly 3 weeks - which means these should be on their way to you guys in mid-February.
asterisk
paid, looking forward to these.
negativspace
Update: I approved the final artwork with MPC this morning - so the panels will now move into the production queue. I guess that means I should make the PCB order on Monday. It should be 2-3 weeks from this point. thumbs up
regenbot
Anyone got a mouser part number for 9mm 1M LOG pot?
Can't seem to find one.
negativspace
I don't know that Mouser has them in 1M... Small Bear does, though. (And maybe Banzai?)
regenbot
Ok, thanks...guess no place has everything sad banana
negativspace
No kidding... I'm working on sourcing parts for a new production module and I believe I'm using 9 different parts suppliers. Dead Banana

Edit: Small Bear has all of the 9mm values, and for about half what Mouser charges. May as well get all of them there. They have good prices on the 16mm pots, too.
asterisk
do 16mm alpha pots fit fine for this module? just want to make sure.
Junk Rhythm
asterisk wrote:
do 16mm alpha pots fit fine for this module? just want to make sure.


If you are building the module with a 4HP panel, 16mm will not fit. 9MM does fit perfect.
asterisk
ok thanks. thats probably a general rule of thumb for 4HP panels huh?
asterisk
these are the ones to use right?
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=693
obscurerobot
asterisk wrote:
these are the ones to use right?
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=693


What kind of knobs do you use with round shaft pots?
asterisk
i like the davies clones.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=727
negativspace
That's what I use too, so reference the photo in the OP to see how they look. thumbs up
negativspace
asterisk wrote:
ok thanks. thats probably a general rule of thumb for 4HP panels huh?


If you're using the pots to mount the PCB to the panel, yes. If you're using a bracket and wiring the pots by hand, 16s will fit as long as they're at least ~22mm apart.
dogmeat
wait...what? here we have 6mm and a crap selection of 4mm pots (i think they measure shafts) is this compatible with 16-9mm pots???
negativspace
16 or 9mm is the measurement of the pot body, not the shaft. The 9mm Alphas we're talking about are these.
dogmeat
ahhh the tiny ones, ok, will start dialing local distributors
negativspace
Banzai Music carries them too, in Germany. I know that's not exactly local for you but it's a lot closer than Small Bear. 8_)
dogmeat
that is nice to know
the other day i wanted to order 2 opamps from mouser...12$ total, they asked 108$ for shipping hmmm..... angry very frustrating
iopop
This is highly philosophical, but I'm interested to take a peek at the original schematic from where this was inspired, anyone?

Or at least know where in the chain of designers it got branded Buchla.

EDIT: found one thing, http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-13501-0.html&postdays=0&postorder =asc&highlight= . Still like to see the original B 1xx/2xx module that use this thing.
negativspace
You found the schematic that I used for the original version of this PCB in that thread, then. Matthias' final posts there should match up. It's also available at his site, I believe there's a link earlier on in the thread. (Low-Gain was asking? God help me if I remember that correctly.)

I've obviously tweaked it a little myself for round 2, with the through buffer and such. I guess now that it's not just a straight copy I should post my own schematic. I'll work on getting that together.
keninverse
The circuit was "originally" drawn by Peter Grenader. The schematic may be posted at his buzz-click music site but I wasn't able to pull it up. I remember when he first posted it maybe 5-6 years ago to the sdiy and AH listserv. I still can't seem to find the original schematic.
bsmith
asterisk wrote:
these are the ones to use right?
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=693



sorry if stupid questions, new at this...
for the 1M log is the the one I want from the small bear site the 1 Meg Audio' from that link above?


and on the resistors 470R and 680R, on the mouser site substituting those values doesn't bring the items back - I find 11 and 17 watt ones for the 470 and 11,17, and 4 watt ones on the 680 - which do I want?

on the tl072 there are a bunch to choose from - are any of the through hole ones fine?

i have these in my shopping cart for the led's - good?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WP937EGWvirtualkey60 400000virtualkey604-WP937EGW
(Kingbright Standard LED - Through Hole RED/GREEN DIFFUSED 2-LEAD)
keninverse
Found it.
keninverse
bsmith wrote:

and on the resistors 470R and 680R, on the mouser site substituting those values doesn't bring the items back - I find 11 and 17 watt ones for the 470 and 11,17, and 4 watt ones on the 680 - which do I want?

I can't comment on the pots but the ones you linked seem to be the correct pots. For the resistors search for 271-680-RC and 271-470-RC. Both will turn up on mouser..I'm being lazy here on linking. Sorry

Quote:
on the tl072 there are a bunch to choose from - are any of the through hole ones fine?

for this circuit yes. I usually buy TI so the part ends in CP. If you want something with "better" characteristics then choose ACP or BCP being the best. But for this circuit the "betterness" is negligible.
bsmith
Thank you keninverse! I should have thought to drop the R on the resistor part#.
negativspace
@bsmith - Those LEDs in your cart will work perfectly.
dogmeat
@negativspace whensitgonnacome???? arewethereyet????
negativspace
I wish I knew... I still haven't been charged for the panels nor have I seen any shipment notice. The PCBs shipped yesterday. thumbs up
obscurerobot
negativspace wrote:
Order list updated, we're nearing 100! Very good so far. Price/PCB starts really falling past 100. It's motherfucking bacon yo

I have not worked on the panel yet, but I have redesigned the PCB. I put provisions in place for using resettable fuses + 1N4001s as reverse-power protection, as well as beads. Fuse or bead can be replaced with a wire link, of course, and the diode can be left out - so build as much or as little of that section as you like. I crammed it all into the same footprint as the previous power input circuitry so the board did not grow as a result.

I will update the first post with the new artwork in the next 24 hours. I have not tested it, so this is subject to further change if the prototype is not right.


What is the correct part to use for the resettable fuses?
dogmeat
negativspace wrote:
I wish I knew... I still haven't been charged for the panels nor have I seen any shipment notice. The PCBs shipped yesterday. thumbs up


w00t
negativspace
Hmm, I see a mysterious charge with no recipient on my card... that's how MPC's charges show up so I'm guessing that's it. The amount is correct. So I'd say I'll start shipping late next week.

w00t
Pfurmel
Just paid for 2 pcb's
bsmith
obscurerobot wrote:
negativspace wrote:
Order list updated, we're nearing 100! Very good so far. Price/PCB starts really falling past 100. It's motherfucking bacon yo

I have not worked on the panel yet, but I have redesigned the PCB. I put provisions in place for using resettable fuses + 1N4001s as reverse-power protection, as well as beads. Fuse or bead can be replaced with a wire link, of course, and the diode can be left out - so build as much or as little of that section as you like. I crammed it all into the same footprint as the previous power input circuitry so the board did not grow as a result.

I will update the first post with the new artwork in the next 24 hours. I have not tested it, so this is subject to further change if the prototype is not right.


What is the correct part to use for the resettable fuses?


I'd be interested in knowing this as well.
Oh and also can anyone recommend sockets for the TL072 and TL074?
Junk Rhythm
bsmith wrote:
Oh and also can anyone recommend sockets for the TL072 and TL074?



Check this Mouser link:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&N=1323043+4292733690+ 3407960+4294653283+4294635162+4294635116+4294734200+4294739373
bsmith
Thanks George. It was pointed out to me that perhaps on this pcb there wouldn't be room for sockets - whaddaya think?
negativspace
There's room... I used sockets in my test builds.

These are the fuses I used.
negativspace
PCBs just arrived - I'll build one up this evening to test, and if they pass I can start shipping those orders for PCBs-only which have been paid. w00t
ringstone
negativspace wrote:
These[/url] are the fuses I used.


Ah! I've seen those in computer power supplies but never knew what they were... thumbs up Thanks again for letting me get on board this order BTW!

Cheers
Blair
negativspace
You bet, thanks for ordering!

The panels came this afternoon - I've constructed one and everything checks out. It's motherfucking bacon yo

I've packed up orders for just about everyone who has paid - I'll get PMs out for those of you who have not yet paid over the weekend. Feel free to beat me to it with your payment - it'll save me time. hihi
Monobass
Great news. Will pay tonight. Do you have extras?
negativspace
Yep, plenty.
Monobass
paid for 8 screaming goo yo
obscurerobot
Here is my Mouser project for the Buchlidian Voltage Processor. Everything should be there except for pots, knobs, jacks wires and the power cable. Please feel free to review and let me know if you see any obvious errors. If plan to base your order on my link, PLEASE review it first and make sure everything you need is there. I haven't placed my parts order yet, and haven't built any BVPs yet.
Isaiah
Payment sent!
Isaiah
I'd be a little reluctant to drill a hole in such a lovely front panel,
but I was just wondering if there would be space to install a SPDT switch to connect/disconnect the Offset voltage to the summing stage.
Electronically, I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work.
Monobass
Isaiah - is your concern with not being able to precise zero the offset?
Isaiah
I was thinking it'd be useful to preset offset voltages that I can switch in and out, mainly for when I use the CVPs with VCOs.

But, yes, the ability to remove any offset is a plus point.

For example:
Input from CV sequencer.
Level set to unity gain.
Through (->) controls the pitch of VCO 1.
Out controls the pitch of VCO 2.
Offest could be used to detune VCO 2 from VCO1.

Things could get interesting if you sync VCO 2 to VCO 1 and turn the Glide time up.
bleeps
You might be able to sacrifice an out and replace a jack with a switch.
Isaiah
Good idea!
Yes, an output jack could be replaced with a switch.
But, it might be awkward to reach if you have a lead plugged into the Through output.
bleeps
Sac the Through then! Use a stackcable!
Isaiah
Or, replace the Through jack with the switch, then wire the left Out as Through, and the right Out as labelled.
negativspace
It's easy to zero that out - either use a multimeter (takes 20 seconds) or simply plug the output into your VCO and adjust the offset until it's at the same pitch as when you unplug it.
obscurerobot
obscurerobot wrote:
Here is my Mouser project for the Buchlidian Voltage Processor. Everything should be there except for pots, knobs, jacks wires and the power cable. Please feel free to review and let me know if you see any obvious errors. If plan to base your order on my link, PLEASE review it first and make sure everything you need is there. I haven't placed my parts order yet, and haven't built any BVPs yet.


Update: I added the four fuses, thanks bsmith for catching that!
bleeps
Thank you both! thumbs up
negativspace
OK, I finally got down to the post office today. I had enough customs and delivery confirmation forms to send about 30 in this round. I'll get the remainder of the paid orders out tomorrow.

At that point I will actually send the PMs I promised last week to those of you who have not paid... can only juggle so many balls at once. On that note, if any of you have paid and are still in black, please let me know. I think I have it right, which means if I don't I'm not going to notice your payment without a reminder. oops
hpsounds
Thanks Jason for your work ! So I will get mine soon hyper

Hédi K.
djs
just paid for 2.. thanks for doing this!

and thanks for including reverse voltage protection on these, as i tend to blow shit up
asterisk
just got mine today. thanks. they look great!
seems like a pretty easy build.
ill post pics when mine are done.

anyone got a mouser link for the correct bi-color LED to use?
thanks!
negativspace
I updated the first post with the correct LED.
negativspace
OK! Everyone who's paid, your orders are in the mail. Everyone else should have received a PM from me this morning. I've counted everything up and while I have a few PCBs left spare, all of the 4hp panels are spoken for.
Monobass
mine came through this morning thumbs up
Pfurmel
Got mine yesterday
Mongo1
Paid for mine today -

Question... Do those Davies clone knobs have setscrews???

Thanks
Gary
Dego
Yes they have
Spandex
Mine came today. Along with my Clarke TW LPG panels + other panels, my smallbear knobs, my vactrols, my Fonik electric Druid VCLFO and my buffered mult PCBs. All on the same day. I swear it was like fucking Christmas round our yard today. I was there opening shit while my baby girl played with the empty boxes n bags. I love this forum.
Monobass
SlayerBadger!
Isaiah
Got my PCBs and panels yesterday, thanks!
astroschnautzer
got mine today. I remember reading something that it would be possible to get these precise enough to work with 1/oct applications but its a long thread and don't have time right now to read it.... anyone could give an answer for this?
regenbot
Got mine and built one today, big thanks Jason applause
bsmith
i got 2 panels and screwed up all over the place on the first one - i know a few things i messed up with it now and think i can go back and fix it.
Got a little more organized on the second one today - it works!!! it's the first module i've built!!! almost in tears happy here.
hooray!
negativspace
It's motherfucking bacon yo SlayerBadger! w00t

With two working units to check with I'm sure you'll get that other one running. (There's only so many things that can go wrong...)

To calibrate the gain to 1.00, I insert a cable to the output and using a multimeter I zero out the OFFSET. Once that reads 00.00v I plug an offset voltage in and measure it- AT THE INPUT JACK SOLDER LUG, not straight from the source. (This is possibly very important, depending on your offset voltage source.)

Let's say that comes to + 4.94v - a typical value from one channel of my MH01. All you need to do is adjust the trimpot until the output of the CVP also reads +4.94v (or whatever.)
bsmith
Awesome Jason thanks for that procedure, got the gain trimmed perfectamundo with offset at 0 (used the maths putting out an 1v offset to calibrate against.)
regenbot
Built the second one also. works like a charm. So much fun to play with, kinda makes me wish i'd got more.

Here's a little patch It's peanut butter jelly time! made of 2x Osc, MAths, Optomix, Z8000 and 2x Voltage prosessors

[s]http://soundcloud.com/regenbot/voltage-boogie[/s]
ossi_fx
I had pleasant surprise waiting me on kitchen table when i came home from work today! 4 x CVPs.

Can´t wait to get these done hyper
cleaninglady
mine arrived two days ago here in AU. SlayerBadger!

building it up right now.

is there a build guide anywhere for wiring and stuff or should i just search this thread ? w00t
negativspace
In to the input, th to the through jack. Out to the output(s), G is ground. 8_)
cleaninglady
Hi neg

There is (what i assume is an) electro cap outline on the PCB that doesn't have a value, just below where it says "neg" ; what is the value there ?

Or is that where the LED goes ? As it has a square + pad , I thought that might be a possibility ; (...plus i can't see anywhere else that has a location for an LED).

If that is the location for the LED , what method did you use to bring the LED to the faceplate from that pad ?

Sorry about the dumb questions people.
I suppose if i ask , others wont have to. oops
negativspace
Yes, that's the LED - you can see a flat spot by the circular pad if you look. (It's not so obvious.)
regenbot
Yes it's for the led. I soldered some solid wires to the led to give it enough lenght.

cleaninglady wrote:
Hi neg

There is (what i assume is an) electro cap outline on the PCB that doesn't have a value, just below where it says "neg" ; what is the value there ?

Or is that where the LED goes ? As it has a square + pad , I thought that might be a possibility ; (...plus i can't see anywhere else that has a location for an LED).

If that is the location for the LED , what method did you use to bring the LED to the faceplate from that pad ?

Sorry about the dumb questions people.
I suppose if i ask , others wont have to. oops
cleaninglady
Great , thanks Gentlemen. Guinness ftw!
lysander
Hi negativespace, just about to send you a paypal for an order of PCB+Panel to the UK.
negativspace
Ok, so I totaled up the PCBs remaining and there are only a few spares left - 7 or 8. There are a few dozen which remain unpaid, though, so there may be some more available in a week or two.

I'm considering a small supplemental run of both boards and panels to satisfy a couple of PM inquiries I've had this last week & rebuild a modest stock of spares. A lot of people seem to want to build these as a beginner's project and that's something I'd like to support. thumbs up

I'll think on it a bit and keep you posted. Meanwhile if you want either PCBs or panels you may order as many as you like - but be warned that it might be mid-April before I can ship them to you.
frozenkore
Mine came in Saturday It's motherfucking bacon yo. Thanks!
msprigings
Got mine yesterday. Thanks Jason!
[Djo]
Received this morning! nanners
Thanks!
hpsounds
Mine reached Iceland a few days ago. Thanks Jason !

thumbs up

Hédi K.
gwaidan
Arrived in Sydney on Monday-thanks!!!
frozenkore
Urgh, don't you hate it when you say "I don't need to order that part, I have tons already." Get everything in, get all ready to build and complete your job, then you realize, no you don't have any of that part left... Well, guess I need 1uf electros d'oh!. Btw, how are you all mounting your LEDs to the panel? The leads aren't long enough to mount and place so I have to wire them.
bleeps
frozenkore wrote:
Urgh, don't you hate it when you say "I don't need to order that part, I have tons already." Get everything in, get all ready to build and complete your job, then you realize, no you don't have any of that part left... Well, guess I need 1uf electros d'oh!. Btw, how are you all mounting your LEDs to the panel? The leads aren't long enough to mount and place so I have to wire them.

The 3mm LED stays in place pretty well without a mount.

I have two other projects all done save for one or two bits I forgot to order. Dead Banana
frozenkore
bleeps wrote:
The 3mm LED stays in place pretty well without a mount.


I'd just be worried that if I accidentally bump the LED, it would fall out the back.
negativspace
A dab of hot glue/epoxy/superglue/etc will help keep it secure if it bothers you. I just let mine be and I've yet to knock one through.
LektroiD
negativspace wrote:
It's motherfucking bacon yo SlayerBadger! w00t

With two working units to check with I'm sure you'll get that other one running. (There's only so many things that can go wrong...)

To calibrate the gain to 1.00, I insert a cable to the output and using a multimeter I zero out the OFFSET. Once that reads 00.00v I plug an offset voltage in and measure it- AT THE INPUT JACK SOLDER LUG, not straight from the source. (This is possibly very important, depending on your offset voltage source.)

Let's say that comes to + 4.94v - a typical value from one channel of my MH01. All you need to do is adjust the trimpot until the output of the CVP also reads +4.94v (or whatever.)


I did this, I put +5v in and got -5V out ??? I also noticed the LEDs are doing the opposite to what they should. I thought at first it was an error on the silkscreen and reversed them, but then noticed the negative voltage problem when I came to calibrate.

My board also looks different to the one illustrated, it only has one IC on, and says V1.5 2011... was there a problem with this batch?
negativspace
That'd be a board from the first run... did I send you that in this last batch? If so you got "lucky" as I didn't think I even had those boards left! Not to mention I stored them somewhere completely different than the new boards... seriously, i just don't get it

If it's one from the original batch then disregard the calibration procedure. It won't work the same. Still, it shouldn't give reversed voltages. I've built 10 of them and they do work. The LEDs may be screened backwards, though. I use single bi-color LEDs and must confess to never testing a pair of one-colors.
LektroiD
negativspace wrote:
That'd be a board from the first run... did I send you that in this last batch? If so you got "lucky" as I didn't think I even had those boards left! Not to mention I stored them somewhere completely different than the new boards... seriously, i just don't get it

If it's one from the original batch then disregard the calibration procedure. It won't work the same. Still, it shouldn't give reversed voltages. I've built 10 of them and they do work. The LEDs may be screened backwards, though. I use single bi-color LEDs and must confess to never testing a pair of one-colors.


So what is the 10K preset for, and how do I calibrate?

And what could be causing the negative voltages? Basically +5v goes in and -5V comes out.. same on both the boards I built.

Can someone who has built this revision verify if the LEDs are silkscreened right or wrong, just so I know if this could relate to the negative voltage problem
negativspace
I believe the trimpot in that version is to calibrate the attenuverter to 0v at the 12:00 knob position. As for the voltage inversion thing, I'm not sure. I just doublechecked one of my (dual) v1.5 builds with a meter and some offset voltages. It does not invert the incoming signal unexpectedly.

I remember checking this for someone else (either in this thread or via PM) a few months ago. I don't remember the resolution but I am having that memory... (Helpful, right?)
Isaiah
Are you using a DMM to measure the voltage at the output?
Sounds silly, but have you got the Ground and Signal probes are connected the right way round? hihi
ossi_fx
negativspace wrote:


If it's one from the original batch then disregard the calibration procedure. It won't work the same. Still, it shouldn't give reversed voltages. I've built 10 of them and they do work. The LEDs may be screened backwards, though. I use single bi-color LEDs and must confess to never testing a pair of one-colors.


I also have two of these earlier 1.5 version boards which i just bought from friend of mine and wondered this same LED issue. Does it matter if i don´t install those LEDs at all?

I could use bi-color ones thought.... as i have to order those anyway for these newer version boards.
sinemod
pretty late catch on the party..
is there still some pcb available ?
if so i woud take 3 of those
And what about 4hp panels is there some available ???
if so i woud take 3 panels to go with those
negativspace
Won't matter at all if you don't install the LEDs. Except that you'll miss out of the pretty light show, which is honestly half the fun.

The panels are all gone, but there are a few PCBs I can let go. At this point I'm not inclined to continue holding unpaid orders for those who have not at least communicated with me. I will be ordering more of both, but I won't be able to ship those until early/mid-April.
sinemod
time is not a problems for me
how much for the panels ?
LektroiD
negativspace wrote:
I believe the trimpot in that version is to calibrate the attenuverter to 0v at the 12:00 knob position. As for the voltage inversion thing, I'm not sure. I just doublechecked one of my (dual) v1.5 builds with a meter and some offset voltages. It does not invert the incoming signal unexpectedly.

I remember checking this for someone else (either in this thread or via PM) a few months ago. I don't remember the resolution but I am having that memory... (Helpful, right?)


If somehow your memory gets jogged and you remember the resolution, pleeeeeeeease hit me up... hmmm.....

What differences are on the revision two boards?
LektroiD
The issue I have with it is when the dial is top dead centre (TDC), there is zero voltage, which is correct. If I move the dial clockwise, I get +5V. When I move it counter-clockwise, I get -5V. This is normal expected behaviour.

However, when I insert +5V into the INPUT socket, I get -5V at the OUTPUT socket when the dial is TDC. Near ±0V fully clockwise, and -9V in the counter clockwise position.

Would someone with the rev 1.5 boards be kind enough to test this theorem with their board for me.

For the record. I read through the thread and found the person who also noticed this issue with their boards. I sent them a PM, but they said their problem was never resolved.

If I can't get this issue resolved, I'm wondering, are there any unclaimed v2.0 boards up for grabs?
frozenkore
Just wanted to confirm on the new boards. If you are using bi-coloured LEDs, follow the "neg" on the board for negative and don't put negative on the flat side of the circle silkscreen. Unless you want fully clockwise to be red an fully counter-clockwise to be green.
negativspace
Fully clockwise is supposed to be red (+v), fully CCW green (-v). The 'neg' text was was probably a leftover from the previous revision and evidently never got removed.

As for the voltage inversion issue, I just checked all 4 of my v1.5 builds (easy, they're at the core of my synth and get used every day) and there is no weirdness there at all.
LektroiD
negativspace wrote:
Fully clockwise is supposed to be red (+v), fully CCW green (-v). The 'neg' text was was probably a leftover from the previous revision and evidently never got removed.

As for the voltage inversion issue, I just checked all 4 of my v1.5 builds (easy, they're at the core of my synth and get used every day) and there is no weirdness there at all.


Any chance you could upload the 1.5 silkscreen pic that was originally at the start of this thread? Just so I can double check my component orientation. It's hard to see under the components once they're in, and now the 1.5 pic has gone from the thread, there's nothing to refer back to. I see the 2.0 layout is quite different.
frozenkore
negativspace wrote:
Fully clockwise is supposed to be red (+v), fully CCW green (-v). The 'neg' text was was probably a leftover from the previous revision and evidently never got removed.


Oops! Sorry, I guess when I think of stuff like positive and negative gains in stuff like stock prices, red was negative and green was positive, so I went that route. oops
obscurerobot
Wow - those ferrite beads suck heat right out of the soldering iron. Any tips for soldering them? I'm having a hard time getting the leads hot enough to make a decent joint.
regenbot
I'll take 2x pcb +panel on the next run
negativspace
frozenkore wrote:
Oops! Sorry, I guess when I think of stuff like positive and negative gains in stuff like stock prices, red was negative and green was positive, so I went that route. oops


Oh, don't worry. It's not 'wrong' as long as you know what it means. I felt the same way you describe when I started building modules, actually built a few like that, but I had a few commercial ones with the red+ convention (MH01, notably) and eventually I fell in line like a good boy. hihi
negativspace
obscurerobot wrote:
Wow - those ferrite beads suck heat right out of the soldering iron. Any tips for soldering them? I'm having a hard time getting the leads hot enough to make a decent joint.


You can swap 10-ohm resistors in for the beads if you need to go that route, but they shouldn't be that bad. Are you using the ones I linked in the BOM? (I have more trouble with the 1N4001s than I do with those.)

Sounds like you might need a stronger iron, what are you using? Even a 40w $9.99 job from Radio Shack should make quick work of the beads.
obscurerobot
negativspace wrote:
obscurerobot wrote:
Wow - those ferrite beads suck heat right out of the soldering iron. Any tips for soldering them? I'm having a hard time getting the leads hot enough to make a decent joint.


You can swap 10-ohm resistors in for the beads if you need to go that route, but they shouldn't be that bad. Are you using the ones I linked in the BOM? (I have more trouble with the 1N4001s than I do with those.)

Sounds like you might need a stronger iron, what are you using? Even a 40w $9.99 job from Radio Shack should make quick work of the beads.


I may order some 10-ohm resistors for the remaining PCBs, but as you say the 1N4001s are also problematic. Since the holes are so close together, I've had better luck inserting both components and then soldering. That ends up increasing the effective mass of the heatsink. Which is better than my first board - a tiny blob of solder got into one of the 1N4001 hole, and I was never able to get it out. I ended up bending a cut-off resistor leg around the bead and the 1N4001 lead and dropping a solder blob on it.

My iron is a 45W Aoyue 937+, and I'm running it at 258C. The solder is SN 99.2% / Ag 0.3% / Cu 0.5% from radio shack. If I bump the temperature up much, the tip oxidizes too quickly. But even at 258C, a bit of wet solder tends to glom on and cool quickly after touching one of those thick leads.
obscurerobot
obscurerobot wrote:
My iron is a 45W Aoyue 937+, and I'm running it at 258C. The solder is SN 99.2% / Ag 0.3% / Cu 0.5% from radio shack. If I bump the temperature up much, the tip oxidizes too quickly. But even at 258C, a bit of wet solder tends to glom on and cool quickly after touching one of those thick leads.


I just went through the directions for testing the heating element in my iron, and found that the values were out of spec!
ossi_fx
I´m running my soldering station around 350c or higher depending what i´m soldering.
To prevent tip oxidation, i clean tip with this stuff after every few solders.
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Universal-Tip-Cleaner.html

I haven´t use sponge since then when i found this metal chips tip cleaner. And when those chips doesn´t clean well anymore, you can just buy a new set of metal chips as a refill.
obscurerobot
ossi_fx wrote:
I´m running my soldering station around 350c or higher depending what i´m soldering.
To prevent tip oxidation, i clean tip with this stuff after every few solders.
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Universal-Tip-Cleaner.html

I haven´t use sponge since then when i found this metal chips tip cleaner. And when those chips doesn´t clean well anymore, you can just buy a new set of metal chips as a refill.


Those metal tip cleaners are excellent. I've got the Hakko version, but they all seem to be pretty much the same. For those who haven't tried a metal tip cleaner yet, definitely give it a shot. Not only do you eliminate the thermal shock of using cold water, but you also eliminate the corrosive effect of water on the tip.
bleeps
frozenkore wrote:
Oops! Sorry, I guess when I think of stuff like positive and negative gains in stuff like stock prices, red was negative and green was positive, so I went that route. oops
That's what I went with too. I even de-soldered and reinstalled the LED in order to get green as positive. thumbs up
LektroiD
redundant post wink
negativspace
Ok, just to update you all on the status of this project... I had really wanted to order more of both PCBs and panels before my trip to Europe, but I used nearly all of both my business and personal budgets ordering the supplies needed to complete my upcoming MA35 production run.

I will be able to free up sufficient capital for these no later than mid-April, meaning they will be available again in early May. I will update the thread with further news when it happens - in the meantime I am going to leave ordering closed to avoid bookkeeping issues. (I forget things.) But don't panic - there will be more!

I cannot guarantee that the prices will be $8/12 as with the last run due to volume considerations, but I will do my best to keep them as close as I can. thumbs up
Monobass
Cool. Well I'm after 8 panels whenever you're ready.
I was going to make me own but I've decided I'm taking on far too many tasks!

If anyone has any spares to sell in the meantime let me know.
obscurerobot
I just finished my first CVP and am very pleased. Thanks, negativspace, for doing all the hard work - design, testing, and PCB and panel production. Buying and stuffing the parts was easy!

I haven't calibrated it yet, but I've already used it to tame the Noisering a little.

sinemod
whenever the pcb and panels are becoming avaliable again i had previously said that i woud take 3 but i change my mind and will take 8
Keep up with your good stuff.
asterisk
did you guys use wires to connect the LED to the PCB?
the leads on the LEDs are not long enough to reach from the panel to the PCB.
let me know.
bleeps
Yup, wires.
negativspace
I put in the panel order yesterday, so ~4 weeks and there will be more for anyone who wants one. thumbs up
sinemod
So panels and pcb in stock in~ 4weeks
JJ
Just paneled and hooked up and tested my first one, works!

Very handy module! Highly recommended! Easy build!

I'm happy I will have four of these when I'm done putting them together..

thumbs up
synaptech
Put me down for 4! grin
hank
I missed the boat by a week or two last time around, so this clearly calls for
w00t w00t w00t !

Sign me up for one.
zoot horn rollo
If numbers are being taken, I'd like four pcbs please. Thanks!
obscurerobot
asterisk wrote:
did you guys use wires to connect the LED to the PCB?
the leads on the LEDs are not long enough to reach from the panel to the PCB.
let me know.


Wires here too. Some people used solid wires, but I didn't have any trouble with stranded wires. The way I ran the wires from the jacks (pretty much a straight shot from the jacks up along the middle of the board to the PCB points) kind of holds the LED in place. I was worried that the LED wouldn't stay put, but I'm not even thinking about glue now.



negativspace
That's pretty much exactly how I do mine, nice job. IME you're correct, the wires that pass behind the LED itself serve to hold it in quite nicely.
microfauna
Can I get

4 x PCBs

2 x panels

Thanks
phono1337
we're not worthy

by the time these arrive i'll have forgotton i bought them and then i'll be like w00t

nice one Jason
asterisk
so i just finished building 2 of these modules and neither of them seem to work (the LED on one works, i think....LED on the other is not working at all).

can someone tell me what the setup/calibration process is?
i havent adjusted the trimpots yet.
i guess ill start there and then figure out what to troubleshoot next....

thanks for your help
obscurerobot
asterisk wrote:
so i just finished building 2 of these modules and neither of them seem to work (the LED on one works, i think....LED on the other is not working at all).

can someone tell me what the setup/calibration process is?
i havent adjusted the trimpots yet.
i guess ill start there and then figure out what to troubleshoot next....

thanks for your help


Mine worked fine without any calibration. Set your trimpots for the middle of the range, and you should get some CV control.

Did you orient the electrolytics correctly? The diodes? The chips? What about solder bridges?

Do you have high res photos of both sides of the boards?
Barcode
Put me down for 2 PCB's and 2 Panels! thumbs up
JJ
The calibration was easy. Just set the bipolar level knob to 12 oclock, feed the input with a square lfo and adjust the trimpot until you hear no modulation.

Once again, a very handy module. Every rig should have a few!
negativspace
That's one way to calibrate it - by following JJ's instructions you should be able to center the 0-point so that circuit and panel control line up. A fine option!

The other option is to trim it to exactly 1.0 gain, which is useful when you want to add glide to a pitch CV using the CVP. To calibrate it in that manner, first zero-out the OFFSET by measuring the output with a multimeter. Now apply a voltage (~+5v) to the input. Measure this voltage. Then, while measuring the output adjust the trimmer so that the voltage at the output matches the voltage at the input.
janvanvolt
3 xPanels and 3x PCB please !
asterisk
i have a little bit of good news. i got one of my CVPs working & calibrated.
the other one is not working at all still....im going to need to poke around and see whats going on.
synthi
3 or maybe 4 pcbs please! 8_)
negativspace
asterisk wrote:
i have a little bit of good news. i got one of my CVPs working & calibrated.
the other one is not working at all still....im going to need to poke around and see whats going on.


Well, that is good news! Once you have a working unit at least you've got something to compare the other one to. Helps a lot with troubleshooting, I find. Does it simply pass no signal or is it entirely nonworking? (No LED action with the offset control at all?)
cleaninglady
Just finished and it works no problem ; (lucky guess on the wiring i suppose...) hihi

Great module ! Simple idea but alot of bang for buck in 4HP !!

Thanks again negativspace. Your after sales service is second to none !SlayerBadger!
bonusplays
I'll take 2 panels and 2 PCBs. Glad I can hop on this one!
asterisk
2nd one isnt passing signal.
but the LED does change when i change the offset control.

any thoughts on where my problem might be? check the chips first?


negativspace wrote:
asterisk wrote:
i have a little bit of good news. i got one of my CVPs working & calibrated.
the other one is not working at all still....im going to need to poke around and see whats going on.


Well, that is good news! Once you have a working unit at least you've got something to compare the other one to. Helps a lot with troubleshooting, I find. Does it simply pass no signal or is it entirely nonworking? (No LED action with the offset control at all?)
negativspace
If the offset works and the LED responds, at least half of the TL074 works. That one's probably fine. I suppose the TL072 could be suspect - does the through output pass the signal or is that also dead?
Bacchus
I'm in for 2 panels and 2 PCBs please hyper
Memory_Leak
count me in 2 panels please mate 8_)
negativspace
There's more than 100 more on their way, probably in about 2 weeks if MPC's running at their usual speed. I also ordered the PCBs last night, which is also a 2-week lead time. I'll post again when everything's here. thumbs up
asterisk
i dont think the thru output is passing signal.

ill check both chips to make sure power is getting to them next.

thanks!


negativspace wrote:
If the offset works and the LED responds, at least half of the TL074 works. That one's probably fine. I suppose the TL072 could be suspect - does the through output pass the signal or is that also dead?
negativspace
If the through buffer's not working, definitely check the TL072. That's what it's doing in this circuit. (It's the input buffer and the through's output buffer.)
asterisk
ok just checked the TL072 and the TL074 and both are getting the proper power.

my jacks seem to be soldered up fine. and im not seeing any solder bridges on the PCB or anything like that.

what should i check next?
negativspace
Does the output work at all? Even with no input it should output the voltage set by the offset control.

If the through buffer isn't working, I'd start checking everything involved with the signal input part of the circuit. The through buffer not working means that either the TL072 is bad or the input signal's not hitting the chip.

Parts involved with the input are only the jack, wire, and R13. Be sure the input signal is making it to the junction of R13 and pin 3 of the TL072.

Check that the 072 itself is good - hopefully you used a socket? 8_)

Be sure the input's not shorted to ground somewhere.
asterisk
thanks, ill work on tracing the signal. could be a bad IC, we'll see....
asterisk
im a total idiot and wired the thru to the input and the input to the thru.
good news, i fixed it and the module works fine now! thanks for your help.

Dead Banana -> It's peanut butter jelly time!

now if i can just get my serge resonant EQ working!
mikecameron
Smallbear is out of the 9mm 50K linear pcb mount pots. Not really interested in paying the higher prices of other distributors for the same thing. (building 4 of them)

i should be able to use 100K linear pots in place of the 50K linears without much trouble right? Would 25K linear be better in this case?
negativspace
Either should work, both are wired as dividers. thumbs up
NS4W
(i changed my mind d'oh! )
electroqin
2 for me please
thanks
adh82
i'll take 2 of the 4hp CVP please.
hank
When I said "Sign me up for one" I meant 1 x PCB and 1 x panel, thanks!
negativspace
OK wigglers, these are back in stock. w00t

I've reopened the payments & updated the information in the first post of the thread. Until I say I'm out again you guys can have at it. thumbs up
Barcode
Paid for 1 PCB and 1 Panel!
bonusplays
Paypal'd for 2 pcbs and panels.

Any major issues with using a 100K trimmer here instead of the 20K besides it being more difficult to trim? I have dozens on hand at that value because of some redundant ordering I didn't catch.
hank
Aaaw, yeah!
w00t
Citisyn
Payment sent for 4 boards.
adh82
Payment sent for 2 panels and 2 boards!
Thanks!!!
moogasm
Payment sent for 2 boards.

Thanks!
electroqin
2 boards paid here !
hank
Just got the board and panel, that was crazy fast! SlayerBadger!
negativspace
8_)
Barcode
hank wrote:
Just got the board and panel, that was crazy fast! SlayerBadger!


+1
rowman
ordered/payed for 2x PCB/panel The Chewbacca Defense
Emalot
Paypal for 2 PCB! applause
Cheradenine
w00t SlayerBadger!
Paypal'd for 4x PCB
Thanks !
janvanvolt
2x PCB and 2 x Panel still available? If yes, drop me a short note and i'll PP the funds.
adh82
Got my pcbs an panels! Thanks!!!
But I can't find the pct fuses.... Are the essential?
And I can't get 39k resistors, what can I substitute them with???
astroschnautzer
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MF-R005-0/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu7EF bsM1w0nRGd783S%2f%2fWAaduQtTq4jng%3d


mouser has em, they got the resistors too....
marvkaye
paypal'ed for 4 PCBs. Thanks for making these available.

<marv>
janvanvolt
Payed for 2 x Panel and 2 x PCB.
negativspace
Got you all packed and ready to go here in an hour when the post office is open. Thanks! thumbs up
madcap
just paid for 1 pcb and 1 panel plus shipping
limpmeat
I have version 1.5 boards that I am only getting around to building now.

Can I wire up a 2 leg red/green ledon this board? how would I do it?
negativspace
Just use one or the other of the two LED pads provided. There's no 'wrong way' to hook those 2-lead bicolors up, so simply be sure it lights up for + and - the way you want it to. If it doesn't, flip it around and it will.
demian
I haven't read this thread all through, so maybe a stupid question, but is this PCB (x4) suitable for this frontpanel made by Rod Serling Fan Club?

Rod Serling Fan Club
demian, the panel is designed for use with these PCBs. The exception being that the knob spacing and the PCB spacing are not right on. The panel would have looked compromised that way.
demian
Great, thanks! I am in for 4 pcb's! w00t
humboldt
Sent payment for 2 panels and 2 pcb's.... thanks!!!!
Lockheed
Paid for two sets w/postage. Thanks!
cleaninglady
Free bump for an awesome module and a great Wiggler to deal with.

The most fun i've ever had in 4HP ! SlayerBadger!
hpsounds
My 4 CVP are soldered and panel mounted. nanners

Last thing to be done : wiring ... help Can someone explain me how to wire the jacks to the PCB and jacks between themselves (I'm using Erthenvar jack sockets) ? I'm still a noob ... oops

Thanks,
Hédi K.
obscurerobot
hpsounds wrote:
My 4 CVP are soldered and panel mounted. nanners

Last thing to be done : wiring ... help Can someone explain me how to wire the jacks to the PCB and jacks between themselves (I'm using Erthenvar jack sockets) ? I'm still a noob ... oops

Thanks,
Hédi K.


I used a single wire to tie all the Ring pins to the ground hole (G) between the ICs and the electrolytics.

Then I used another single wire to tie both of the Tip pins of the output jacks to one of the positive holes inside the white Out box.

Finally, I used two wires, one for each jack, to connect the Tip pins to the corresponding In and Th holes at the top of the PCB.

KNYST
Paid for 1 panel + 1 board + extras... w00t

Quote:
10uF/22uF electrolytic

...As in doesn't matter which one I use, or...?
negativspace
Correct; the exact value is not critical. Use whatever you've got handy. (I buy 22uF by the thousand, so I use those.)
adh82
i only have 1MB pots lying around...
will these be ok???
negativspace
Yes, they'll work just fine. (I've built several with linear-taper pots, hard to even tell the difference.)
adh82
Great!
cant wait to get these up and running!!!!!
demian
demian wrote:
Great, thanks! I am in for 4 pcb's! w00t


Payment done..! SlayerBadger!
emmaker
PP for 6 boards.

Thanks much!
hpsounds
Thank you all for your help. My 4 CVP are now fully functional ! nanners nanners nanners

Hédi K.
negativspace
Congrats Hédi, enjoy 'em! SlayerBadger!
Reptil
4 sets ordered and paid.
great! I missed out the previous round.
thanks!
w00t
negativspace
Packed up. SlayerBadger!

I just noticed @ Small Bear that the 50k LIN 9mm Alpha pots are in stock again - get 'em while they're hot! (I got dibs on 220 of 'em. 8_) )
Memory_Leak
@ negativspace
you have a PM mate :-)
rowman
Got mine today, cheers
demian
Just received them, thanks!!!!
far gon
I just ordered 6 panels and 6 pcbs... very excited for this project!

Also just joined muffs today after a bit of lurking for the past couple months and have learned so much.

Thanks to you all!
negativspace
You guys are kickin' my ass on these... I'm down to a handful again. I'm testing out a couple of minor layout tweaks to the PCB - no functional changes - and then I'll re-up. If we experience a lapse in stock it will be brief. thumbs up
Emalot
i received my order today! Thanks!
legionhwp
Just an idea but does it make any sense to use center detent pots for the controls that zero out at 12 o'clock?

Are there 9mm center detent pots?
negativspace
It's not necessary to use the 9mm pots if you're not sticking with the 4hp Euro spacing - you can always use the detented 16's if there's room. I've not found a 9mm detented pot yet.
adh82
Just completed building my 2 modules and the rock!!!

Can i get 2 more?????

Cheers!
jooks
Im late to the party but now I need 4 pcbs!
negativspace
There's about a dozen boards left as of right now.
jooks
Payment sent for 4 x PCB´s thumbs up
haima
legionhwp wrote:
Just an idea but does it make any sense to use center detent pots for the controls that zero out at 12 o'clock?

Are there 9mm center detent pots?


One thing worth mentioning is that the 12 o'clock mechanical dent point in pots are quite often not at exactly 50% of the resistance value. This fact, along with other value tolerances in the circuit may mean that the center dent may not actually be the null point...

I haven't looked at the schematic for this but if there is trim pots you may be able to compensate for this. But if there's no trimmers you might need to add them to get 100% null at center dent.

Just something to keep in mind, if you don't know it already.
adh82
payment sent for 2 pcb's and 2 panels!!! 8_)
Lockheed
Received today, built and tested. Works great! Nice project, thanks negativspace!
negativspace
You're welcome, everyone, and thank you for all of the orders! Now please stop. hihi

(Seriously - I have 4 boards left. It'll take me a couple of weeks to re-up so if you send payment now please be advised that it may take a little while.)
en.
2 for me! Rockin' Banana!
and 1 panel if spared
glitchpop
I would like two please also pcbs and faceplates w00t

Let me know if I missed out on the first round. I will send payment whenever suits you. cheers Guinness ftw!
negativspace
There are 2 left - yours if you want 'em. w00t

After that I'm out until the next batch.
Juxwl
Just paid for one pcb/panel set.
negativspace
One set left until June. w00t
negativspace
... no longer. I'll get more as soon as I can & will update the thread when they're back in stock. In the meantime, should anyone need a panel there are plenty of those left.
laserpalace
Just finished my build!! Knobs are temporary, just what I had lying around SlayerBadger!

iopop
obscurerobot wrote:



Is this the correct way to mount the PCB to the panel? i.e. to get the offset and level pots behind right label. I mounted it opposite after looking at the traces and comparing to the schematics. Still missing a few components so I can't fire it all up and test just yet. Did have them misplaced on my quad buchla version so it seems like I might be compeltey Dead Banana
negativspace
That's the correct way to mount, yes. Power connector at the bottom. thumbs up
iopop
Ok, thanks for confirming, have to rewire one module then.. But its an easy fix.
laserpalace
Is there a reason for mounting it that way? I also mounted it in the opposite direction. It makes the power header more accessible, I think.
negativspace
The only real reason to do it that way here is to match the panel legending. Not an issue if you do your own panels. I like my power headers at the bottom, and most modules seem to be designed that way whether DIY or not so I just sorta went with it. But there's no difference in having them up high, other than increasing the distance between busboard and header by an inch or two.
laserpalace
Regarding the IN/TH wiring. I'm not getting a response from the secondary IN jack. The first is connected to the IN, and the second to the TH. Can anyone give me insight into what I should expect from the TH?
negativspace
That's a buffered multiple of your input signal, or at least it should be.
laserpalace
thumbs up and it works as such! d'oh!
negativspace
w00t
bonusplays
Shoot, I accidentally got a 3-lead LED instead of 2. Anyway I can adapt this to work with the PCB?

Specifically this one: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WP115VEGWvirtualkey6 0400000virtualkey604-WP115VEGW
harolddonnelly
Any idea when you are going to get more PBS in stock?
negativspace
I should have more in a couple of weeks. thumbs up
ringstone
bonusplays wrote:
Shoot, I accidentally got a 3-lead LED instead of 2. Anyway I can adapt this to work with the PCB?

Specifically this one: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WP115VEGWvirtualkey6 0400000virtualkey604-WP115VEGW


I think you can probably hack something up using a couple of diodes... I found this article here which says much the same thing, and has a circuit diagram you could try:

http://thedialist.wordpress.com/2008/06/17/converting-a-3-wire-bi-colo ur-led-into-a-2-wire-bi-colour-led/

Cheers
Blair
Filch
Please forgive my newbiness when it comes to parts sourcing, but are these the pots I'm looking for, 90 degree angle?

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1139


Also, is there a part number or link to where I can get the right kind of 3.5 mm jacks and a power cable?
negativspace
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=693 are the ones you want for this PCB. Cables can be had from Erthenvar, or even AH in a pinch although you pay a premium. It takes a standard 10->16p Euro cable.

The jacks I use are 16PJ138 @ Mouser. 16PJ135 is nearly the same part & will also work well. There are other fine options, including the jacks Erthenvar sells.
iopop
It took a year, but now its mission accomplished! Panel by beautyofdecay_.


If anyone have some of the smaller buchla knobs for sale Im all ears..

Managed to place the boards "upside-down" so the Offset and Level pots are switched. On this one as well, Dead Banana Will not change it, figure it's easier to change the label on the front panel..

negativspace
Backwards or not, that looks really slick! applause
Filch
Could someone please assist me on figuring out where the jacks tip/sleeves are wired to which spots on the board?
negativspace
All of the sleeves are wired together and then to the G pad. (Ground.) The tips are wired as printed on the PCB - in to in, th to '-->' and out to out.
Filch
negativspace wrote:
All of the sleeves are wired together and then to the G pad. (Ground.) The tips are wired as printed on the PCB - in to in, th to '-->' and out to out.


Thanks much!

Modules up and working, I just need to calibrate now.
Filch
I just attempted to do a calibration and I've run into a few issues and questions.

Quote:
The other option is to trim it to exactly 1.0 gain, which is useful when you want to add glide to a pitch CV using the CVP. To calibrate it in that manner, first zero-out the OFFSET by measuring the output with a multimeter. Now apply a voltage (~+5v) to the input. Measure this voltage. Then, while measuring the output adjust the trimmer so that the voltage at the output matches the voltage at the input.


I've set the offset knob to 12 o'clock, and have it so that my meter is reading 0's at that setting. I'm then sending a 5v signal from Silent Way, which is reading 5.08 volts on my meter. I connect this to the input of the CVP.

I have two of these now. On one of them, the left output is reading a negative -5.08v, and the right one is 5.08V. On the other one, both outputs are reading -5.08v.

I've also noticed that on both of these units, the trimpot doesn't seem to have any affect on this reading. My level knob is set at 7 o'clock for both of these.

I'm sure I'm supposed to be getting positive voltages at the outputs if I'm feeding it a positive 5v. Not sure what's going on here.
hank
Just gotta say that this module was a great starting point to get into sdiy. Finished mine a week or so ago and use it in almost every patch! we're not worthy
Filch
In case my newbness is scaring off any replies, I thought I'd try to explain my situation a little better. Here is how I wired it up. I connected all four jack grounds together and then connected the wire from ground to this connection



The diagram above shows how I connected everything. I used the Mouser 16PJ135 with the three connector tabs. I cut off the extra tab.



Maybe I'm misunderstanding the calibration process. Should I request assistance in another thread? Sorry.
negativspace
Your wiring and overall construction looks very good.

With the level knob set to 7:00 (full-CCW) you should see -5.08v under the conditions you describe. That should register full-green on the LED. The trimpot won't have any effect on that. Try it with the knob fully CW and you'll find things make a lot more sense. hihi

Also, there's no way you should see different voltages from the two output pads - they're both fed by the same source, same trace on the PCB.
zoot horn rollo
Maybe you have your multimeter probes reversed?

I do that all the time d'oh!
Filch
zoot horn rollo wrote:
Maybe you have your multimeter probes reversed?

I do that all the time d'oh!


That's exactly what I must have done as it all checks out now.

Quote:

Try it with the knob fully CW and you'll find things make a lot more sense.


Aye, all better now. 1.0 gain calibrated smile
Thanks for the guidance.
negativspace
Awesome, congrats on getting them running!
JJ
Yeah, hey! I also want to say a big thank you for this project as I now have 4 VCPs , two version 1.5 and two 2.0 boards. The bipolar leds are fantastic! I got some that shift between blue and red, and if modulated fast enough, the leds look purple. Anyhow, the VCPs are very versatile and get a lot of use! If there's ever another run, I will build a few more for future... thumbs up
negativspace
Nice, JJ. Actually I built one last night with a red/blue LED and I really like the way it looks... I'm considering changing to those for the production versions. Mine's bright enough to land aircraft in fog, though, so I need to tweak R8 and R9 a little bit. d'oh!

I've decided to make a couple of layout changes to the DIY board, partially to incorporate some tweaks to the circuit (LED is now after the slew) and to the layout. I've eliminated the .2" pads for larger pots, spread some traces out, added a groundplane to the back side of the board. This has eliminated some signal bleedthrough that I noticed with my previous layout.

The module I mentioned above with the red/blue LED was/is the last test of these new boards - so I will be ordering them this week. In ~2 weeks I'll have as many of these as you guys want. thumbs up
reignbear
negativspace wrote:
In ~2 weeks I'll have as many of these as you guys want. thumbs up


SlayerBadger!

and in 2 weeks i'll have money to buy as many as i want w00t
Oldstench
I might just have to grab 1 or 2 as my first official DIY module.
sinemod
~2 weeks. Are we there yet ?
negativspace
They shipped yesterday.
default
negativspace wrote:
They shipped yesterday.


Exciting news, put me down for 2 (if I haven't put myself down for 2 already).
negativspace
Alright wigglers, we're back in business. w00t

I just got a stack of PCBs in the mail this afternoon. All of the relevant order/payment information is in the first post of the thread, which has been updated. Please feel free to order as many as you need, whenever you want.
default
negativspace wrote:
Alright wigglers, we're back in business. w00t


w00t SlayerBadger! Excellent! I'm genuinely excited... SlayerBadger! w00t
negativspace
I've got 2 boards set aside for you, do you need the panels too?
default
negativspace wrote:
I've got 2 boards set aside for you, do you need the panels too?


Yes, I'll need 2 panels as well. Thanks for this. Payment on its way.
haima
Just paid for 1 panel & 1 pcb - thanks Jason! w00t
cathartech
in for one panel, one pcb! payment sent...
hellpony
Will there be a run of the dual panel?
wwbjd
Ordered 2x panels / 2x PCB's (hope I got the shipping amount correct).

Derp looks like I did as they arrived today. Thanks!
werock
Ordered 4x PCBs, payment sent!
negativspace
OK, after a short delay caused by running out of bubble mailers I believe everyone except werock has been shipped, including those of you who ordered other panels/PCBs and were waiting on these. (werock, I'll get yours out with my next Intl. mail pile, probably Friday. Recent USPS changes have forced me to go to a very inconvenient location to ship internationally, so I only go once a week.)

Thanks yet again everyone, and happy building! w00t
Tronketz
I sent payment for 4 PCBs. Waiting for a response from you just to make sure I've been heard! twisted
negativspace
Shipped them today. thumbs up
werock
negativspace wrote:
OK, after a short delay caused by running out of bubble mailers I believe everyone except werock has been shipped, including those of you who ordered other panels/PCBs and were waiting on these. (werock, I'll get yours out with my next Intl. mail pile, probably Friday. Recent USPS changes have forced me to go to a very inconvenient location to ship internationally, so I only go once a week.)

Thanks yet again everyone, and happy building! w00t


Thanks, no worries. Any minor shipping delay will be the least of the delays in me getting it built I'm sure!
negativspace
It'll take you about 45 minutes once you get started, it's a quick build. Shipping yours tomorrow.
Votek_Mendo
Money sent for 4

Thanks!
Tronketz
What's the difference between the through thruput and the outputs?
negativspace
The through jack is a multiple of your input signal, the knobs have no effect on it.
theputney
negativspace

Hi There,

Do you still have the pcb's for sale? Thx!!!

Kind regards; Bart
negativspace
Yes, I have lots. thumbs up
JohnLRice
I just ordered one Panel and PCB set! w00t
sinemod
Just order 3x pcb and panel
jbaken
just paid for 1panel and 1pcb n_n
Kalerne
hello,

please help the stupid newbie who's trying to learn... waah

i tried to build the module but then nothing was coming from the output (the led and the buffered input work correctly). i checked everything (for the third time!) and found that one of the 1N4001 was in the wrong position. d'oh!
i changed it (it is probably dead, right ?) but still nothing.
did i burn the ICs ? what other component should i replace ?
Kalerne
help
Kalerne
Thanks to Negativspace, I found my mistake. And CVP is great ! screaming goo yo
negativspace
Happy to help you get it working! Sorry I missed your post in this thread, glad you PM'd me. thumbs up
Votek_Mendo
Received my 4 pcbs last week.
Thx!
Filch
Is there a suitable distributor for the knobs? What is the part number for the ones pictured or what type/size should I look for?
iopop
Assuming you're looking for the black Davies 1900 clones as in the picture of the first post, Small Bear is probably the best distributor for you, http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=727

EDIT: I said black, but linked to the colored ones, sorry, here's the black ones,

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=707
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=831
zdarma
I finally finished wiring up one of these. It took me a while but the information in this thread helped me get through it. Thanks negativspace for a straight-forward build and a handy module.
hellpony
has anyone tried using the red/blue leds?
negativspace
Glad you got it going, zdarma! SlayerBadger!

iopop's answer re: knobs is spot-on. I get mine @ Small Bear. They carry a couple versions of Black as well as colors in ABS.

I've tried Red/Blue LEDs. The ones I bought were HOLYCRAPBRIGHT so I had to tweak the 4.7k resistor to tone them down. (Changed to 8.2k.) Other than that there's no difference relative to the other colors. I want some green/blue ones, gotta go LED hunting some time...
hellpony
Thanks for the info! Green and blue would be mind bending!!
cathartech
How badly would using 475r vs 470r resistors be in this circuit? I ask because I managed to botch my mouser order by ordering only one 470r, but I had a few extra 475r resistors laying around from another project....
negativspace
It won't make any difference whatsoever. thumbs up
Arnoid
Received my 4 cvp pcb's yesterday hihi

thx !
e-grad
Is it possible to use one bipolar LED instead of two LEDs to this board?

edit: Just have found 3 pin bipolar LEDs.
dogmeat
made my two BVP, they work like a charm!!!
thanks negativspace!

one question though...i tried searching it but couldn't find it, is there a way to hack it to function like an elaborate maths ch2,3 when input is unpatched? is there any pad i connect the normalizing input pin to get that?
thanks!
negativspace
e-grad wrote:
Is it possible to use one bipolar LED instead of two LEDs to this board?

edit: Just have found 3 pin bipolar LEDs.


Yes, the first version I did had 2 pads for dual LEDs but the later runs have just the one spot for a 2-lead LED. The Red/Green parts I use from Mouser are about $.25/ea but you can get various other suitable parts from a lot of places. (I kinda like the red/blue ones I found on eBay. The 4.7k resistor needs to be changed to 7.5-8.2k, but other than that they drop right in.)
e-grad
negativspace wrote:
Yes, the first version I did had 2 pads for dual LEDs ...


Yes, I'm late. hihi

However, will finish it soon using a 3 pin LED. Thanks!
negativspace
dogmeat wrote:
made my two BVP, they work like a charm!!!
thanks negativspace!

one question though...i tried searching it but couldn't find it, is there a way to hack it to function like an elaborate maths ch2,3 when input is unpatched? is there any pad i connect the normalizing input pin to get that?
thanks!


You're welcome! Congrats on getting them going. w00t

I'm not sure what you mean about the Maths since I don't own one, do those 2 channels act as offset generators with no input? If that's it, the CVP does that automatically. The offset control adds a bipolar DC offset to the output independently from what the level control is doing to your input signal.

The only output that won't react to that offset is the '-->' jack, the 'buffered pass-through'. (All that does is mirror the input so you can patch it elsewhere.)
dogmeat
exactly that and great!
thanks!
transistor logic
just paypalled you for two pcb/panel sets w00t
NS4W
negativspace wrote:

To calibrate the gain to 1.00, I insert a cable to the output and using a multimeter I zero out the OFFSET. Once that reads 00.00v I plug an offset voltage in and measure it- AT THE INPUT JACK SOLDER LUG, not straight from the source. (This is possibly very important, depending on your offset voltage source.)


By zeroing out the OFFSET, do you mean turning the pot until the multimeter shows OV? And at what position should GLIDE be when calibrating?

(doing the calibration now, unsure if im doing it right)
negativspace
Correct, you can use a meter and watch for the zero point. Glide should be fully CCW, i.e. off.

Alternately, you can do what I do and use a VCO. I employ my Z3000 with its frequency counter for this task. I set it to about 1200hz and then plug the CVP's output into the Z3k's CV in. I then adjust the offset until the Hz reads the same. I use the same idea for setting the scaling, too. I run 5v into the CVP and adjust the trimmer until the Z3000 reads the same value from both the '-->' out and the main outs.
NS4W
Thanks for clearing that up. I dont have a Z3000, so im just sending in a squarewave from a Cwejman VCO2RM.

Where should LEVEL be at? doesn't matter?
negativspace
LEVEL's setting doesn't matter when finding the zero point, but to calibrate the gain it needs to be fully positive (CW.) BTW, you can trim the gain well beyond 1.0. I think it gets pretty close to 2 at the top end. (I tried it once.) Could be useful as a way to get some CV amplification if you're not planning to run pitch CVs through the processor.

(And even if you do, the 'gain=1' setting is still there... you'll just have to dial it in.)
legionhwp
I've built two CVPs now and both have the same issue so I am guessing I'm doing something consistently wrong smile

I am using all the items from the actual BOM list purchase from Mouser and Small Bear and my build is for +/- 15vt (running on a modcanA PS)

The problem I am getting is there is no processed output. The through output works fine and the LED (I'm using a single two prong LED) lights up and slows/speeds up with the knob twists indicating *something* is going on. But the processed output isn't affected at all by any of the knob changes. I wired banana jacks (single wire to PCB) with no ground wire but the power connector is a standard MOTM and does have the ground etc.

I am using a 47K resistor, 22Uf Electrolytics as per the 15 vt build instructions.

I AM using a TL072CN however, do I need to be using the LT1013 instead for a 15Vt build?

Any suggestions for what to look for or trace back on? Solder joints look ok (not perfect but ok with no obvious spillage). Is there a particular spot on the PCB which might be shorting out and sending the through to the regular out?

I can post email or post pics of the build if anyone would like to take the time to view them. Thanks for any/all help!

On a side note I got the pots from Small bear and they do not fit on the PCB holes (but I can still attach the three prongs to the PCB). I was under the impression the I have the V2 PCB which has flush pot mounting? hmmm.....
negativspace
legionhwp wrote:
The problem I am getting is there is no processed output. The through output works fine and the LED (I'm using a single two prong LED) lights up and slows/speeds up with the knob twists indicating *something* is going on. But the processed output isn't affected at all by any of the knob changes. I wired banana jacks (single wire to PCB) with no ground wire but the power connector is a standard MOTM and does have the ground etc.


Well, there's good news here. That it works at all means the TL072 at the input is working. The LED driver is part of the TL074, as are the rest of the processing sections, which means the TL074 is also working. And the LED driver is fed by the processed signal, which means that the processing is happening if the LED indicates it. It's just not making it to the output of the module... Double (triple) check your wiring, make sure both bananas are attached to the OUT pad(s.) Try a continuity test between GND and the output jacks to be sure you haven't grounded the output somewhere along the line.

You can also poke around on the PCB to find the signal... see if it's present at the OUT pads on the board. If not, check pin 7 of the TL074. It should be there; if not, try pin 14. Once you find it, figure out where it's being lost and you should be able to locate the issue. If not, I'll be happy to check out a photo and see if I can spot anything.

Quote:
I AM using a TL072CN however, do I need to be using the LT1013 instead for a 15Vt build?


No, I've built many of these with TL072 and they work perfectly. The LT1013's a precision opamp I chose for its low offset since it makes up the input buffer and the through output. For users who are planning to run 1v/oct signals through the processor, that precision might matter.

Quote:
On a side note I got the pots from Small bear and they do not fit on the PCB holes (but I can still attach the three prongs to the PCB). I was under the impression the I have the V2 PCB which has flush pot mounting? hmmm.....


Which pots did you get? The 9mm Alphas with 0.1" lead-spacing fit perfectly - I just pulled a PCB from the stack to verify.
legionhwp
Finally had time to DIY again. Found a bad trace and got sound. Also realized the pots don't solder their extra tabs to the board (duh!) so they do indeed fit if you bend them.

Got everything doing something including the single red/green led. Super thanks for the help.

Now that I have sound and got my Buchla 200 face plate from the other thread I have two quick follow ups:

1. What should be happening when the pots are setto 12 o'clock? Is that unity? I'm guessing mind needs some serious calibration but I'm not sure what I'm calibrating it to. Right now the level is very finicky and I have to tuen the offset to about 2-3 o'clock or there is no sound.

2. I'm using a single two leg dual color led. The panel has hole dorm two LEDs however. How would I wire two separate LEDs to the pcb to get them to indicate the swing CV?

One pcb down, three to go! Again, thanks for all the help.

thumbs up
kitsch-bent
paypal-ing for 2x PCB/panel sets!
negativspace
legionhwp wrote:
Finally had time to DIY again. Found a bad trace and got sound. Also realized the pots don't solder their extra tabs to the board (duh!) so they do indeed fit if you bend them.


Oh, I think I get it... you used the perpendicular-mount 9mm Alphas didn't you? This is meant, strictly-speaking, for the other ones. No matter, seems like you got it sorted out. There's no difference electrically. thumbs up

Quote:
1. What should be happening when the pots are set to 12 o'clock? Is that unity?


At 12:00, the LEVEL and OFFSET controls are at 0 - they're both bipolar controls. The glide is not, at 12:00 it will be slewing the input signal fairly heavily. To run a signal through the processor more-or-less unmolested, set OFFSET to 12:00, GLIDE to full-CCW and LEVEL to full-CW.

Quote:
2. I'm using a single two leg dual color led. The panel has hole dorm two LEDs however. How would I wire two separate LEDs to the pcb to get them to indicate the swing CV?


I guess the easiest way is to wire a second LED parallel to the first one, except backwards. I think the bi-color parts are no more complicated than that, just that the 2 LEDs are together in one package.
Kalerne
Hello Jason,

I'm building my second CVP and I got the 2.1 version. I made it and it works, but I suddenly noticed that this version lacks the ground connection present in the version 2.0. Did I miss something ?
Oh, and to have the led after the glide is really great !

Yannick
negativspace
You did miss something... the ground pad is there right below the OUT, next to the LED pads. thumbs up
Tronketz
negativspace wrote:
You did miss something... the ground pad is there right below the OUT, next to the LED pads. thumbs up

I missed that too, but eventually figured it out. thumbs up
Kalerne
ohhhhh d'oh!

thanks !
TestSetRadio
about to send payment for two sets of these... i'm running stupid low on utility things like this.
roqeja
ordered 2 PCBs and 1 panel!
moogah
payment sent for 4 panels and 2 pcbs smile
ruidobello
Hi Jason, I just sent you payment for 2 panels and 2 PCBs
hyper
negativspace
Well, looks like I've run out of panels again. MY ASS IS BLEEDING

I'll order more; this means I cannot ship for about 3 weeks, although anyone who wants to place an order in the meantime is welcome to do so as long as a short wait is not a problem.

There are more than enough PCBs left.
LektroiD
I put an order in earlier, hopefully I didn't miss the boat... eek!
negativspace
In fact you were the last one aboard.
steffensen
If you for some reason should find a left over 1 PCB + 1 Panel hidden away/forgotten, please let me know. smile
negativspace
Don't worry, I have PCBs and just reordered the panels. We'll be back to normal in a couple of weeks.
roqeja
Just wanted to make it official, my unit works great and I look forward to building my second one!

Highly recommended. thumbs up
steffensen
Awesome. smile
loowfizzz
Are there any PCBs and Panels left? I would like to order one piece?

Thanks...
hexinverter
Ohh, this looks like fun!
bsmith
I just did a panel of 4 that are normalled to a cgs04 dcmixer, and yowza it's a pretty cool set up. Kinda fonik attenuverting mixer-like except with slew. Have it behind a very funky lexan panel for now to live with it and see how it goes - i think i may do a toggle switch that makes it either go through the mixer or through a simple 'or' combiner.
negativspace
loowfizzz wrote:
Are there any PCBs and Panels left? I would like to order one piece?


Yes, the panels came about 20 minutes ago. They look good - so have at it. w00t
batchas
Please, does anyone have a picture of the populated v2.1 PCBs incl. connected cables to Buchla panel ins/outs?
Thanx!
batchas
Please see pix:
1) Do we use “th”? And what does it means?
2-8) Do we use these holes?
negativspace
1) Yes, that's the 'through' connection. If that's not present on the Buchla panel then no.

2-8) Nope, just vias.
lessavyfav
Th connection goes to the jack with the arrow pointing to it. It is a buffered mult of the input, right?

I got weird with the out hole(s) I though that there were 2( the one an the other hole below it ( and next to the LED) but It acted weird so I disconnected it and just wired the two out jacks together. I've decided that that second hole is for a 3 lead LED.

Other than that out thing this was a beautifully simple and laid out board. Usually I rely on super 4MS levels of walk through but this lil guy was cake! Maybe I'm learning something...

Now to get it to give me 3x gain... ;-)
negativspace
Yes, the through is a buffered copy of the original signal.

That mystery pad down by the LED and the output is your ground. You can see the connection to the ground plane in the 4 little 'traces' coming off it.
batchas
negativspace wrote:
1) Yes, that's the 'through' connection. If that's not present on the Buchla panel then no.

2-8) Nope, just vias.


negativspace wrote:
Yes, the through is a buffered copy of the original signal.

That mystery pad down by the LED and the output is your ground. You can see the connection to the ground plane in the 4 little 'traces' coming off it.

Thx a lot!!!
batchas
The 2 LEDs on Rod Serling panel confuse me.
Why put 2 LEDs when both react to pos (light is green) and neg (light is red) signals? I mean when we put 2 LED on the PCB and just invert the cathode on one, the first LED will light green while the second will light red. What is the advantage of 2 LEDs?

OK OK.. I got it. For the Rod Serling panel I should have ordered 4 green and 4 red coloured LEDs (or other combi. Anyway not bicoloured LEDs). So only 1 LED is lighten at a time. Green when pos signal and red when neg signal...
camelneck
Although I bought two rev1.5 and four rev2.0 CV Processors PCBs many months ago, I'm just now getting around to building a module that uses these PCBs. Although the 2 Rev1.5 PCBs correspond to Fonik's original schematic, I have not been able to find a schematic for the Rev2 PCB.

Is a schematic (or at least a block diagram) for the Rev2 PCBs available?

In regards to the Rev2 PCB, I think I finally understand why the dual op amp was added after I toned out this section of the PCB and made a schematic of it. It was added in order to provide a buffered output of the input signal and this buffered output is terminated on the "thru" pad. However, I don't understand why a buffered output was needed unless it is going to be used to provide a buffered multiple for the input signal.

However, I am clueless in regards to how this relates to the CV Processors themselves. Can you please elaborate on why this was done?

Although I think I finally have a clear understanding of how the Rev2 PCB works, I would prefer to have an official schematic of the Rev2 PCB because I have a rather cool modification in mind that could expand the functionality of these CV Processors.

Thanks.

EDIT: I had originally attached a block diagram of how I thought the Rev2 PCB worked. However, this diagram has been removed because it was incorrect. When I made the diagram, I thought the "thru pad" was for a 2nd input that would be mixed with the processed signal. I didn't know it was a buffered output of the input signal.
negativspace
You're right; the through pad is a buffered multiple of the input signal. That was an addition of mine to v2.x and is not present in the original schematic. (Nor is the other half of that IC, which is simply used as an input buffer.) The only other change I made, other than to tweak some component values, was to move the LED tap from pre- to post-glide, so now your slew setting is reflected in the LED.
limpmeat
I'm not sure if this has been asked before, but can the glide time be increased?
negativspace
Replace the 1U cap with a larger value.
batchas
It seems difficult to get any pix from a CVP as Buchla module, but I cannot imagine it was not made for Buchla when I see the Buchla oanels orders...
So I hope someone will be able to help here:

As we use banana for Buchla module, what do we have to do to "cut" the signals between in 1/out 2 and in 2/out 2 (I mean banana has only 1 connection. No ground).

For instance:
Signal A is 281e LFO OUT plugged into IN 1.

Signal B is 266e B OUT into IN 2.

SIGNAL A is also coming into B OUT from 266e! I guess it happens as IN 1 and IN 2 are connected, but how to avoid it (I mostly do not want to destroy my 200e modules with wrong interconnections).

How do you solution this with the CVP pcb from fluxmonkey (I have v2.2) for a Buchla module with bananas (I had this prob with my own module, mixing signals, and wanted to ask about this a long time ago. Unfortunately, it's difficult to google when you do not know how to call/describe it in a few keywords for the search engine).
So I hope you understand the question.
Thanx for helping!

Issue:


Other video here.
Rod Serling Fan Club
batchas wrote:
It seems difficult to get any pix from a CVP as Buchla module, but I cannot imagine it was not made for Buchla when I see the Buchla oanels orders...
So I hope someone will be able to help here:

As we use banana for Buchla module, what do we have to do to "cut" the signals between in 1/out 2 and in 2/out 2 (I mean banana has only 1 connection. No ground).

For instance:
Signal A is 281e LFO OUT plugged into IN 1.

Signal B is 266e B OUT into IN 2.

SIGNAL A is also coming into B OUT from 266e! I guess it happens as IN 1 and IN 2 are connected, but how to avoid it (I mostly do not want to destroy my 200e modules with wrong interconnections).

How do you solution this with the CVP pcb from fluxmonkey (I have v2.2) for a Buchla module with bananas (I had this prob with my own module, mixing signals, and wanted to ask about this a long time ago. Unfortunately, it's difficult to google when you do not know how to call/describe it in a few keywords for the search engine).
So I hope you understand the question.
Thanx for helping!



Both outputs are just multiples. Regardless that we use bananas, It's just a mult. I realize banana multiples are not common in buchla and part of the reason I did it was purely aesthetic. It made for a more balanced, correct looking panel IMHO. If you wanted each output to be different you could add some circuitry to make one of the outputs inverted or perhaps somethign interesting like Ken stones "gate to trigger converter to get a pulse output (untested).

After re-reading much of this thread I do realize I misunderstood one function. I misinterpreted that the "through" was an input that was unaffected and mixed with processed signal at output. In actuality the through is just a buffered unprocessed output of the input (a buffered multiple). Knowing this, using buchla color coding you can use the black (input) for the top and blue (output) for the bottom jack and both the right jacks, for each section.

Let me know if that didn't make sense.
batchas
Thnax for helping.
I have no prob with the mult at the bottom (the fifth row). I guess I'll try to make a mixer when time comes.

About the 4 rows, I think it would be much easier to know what PCB cable is going where on the panel (I'm not sure to understand "both the right jacks, for each section"), but what I now understand is that I should not have connected the IN 2 to the same input on the PCB than IN 1, cause IN 2 is not an input, but an ouput, with through function, going to the through OUT on the PCB. Is it right?
I mean I could just try, but if it is right I think it is good that others know it too.
Also if it is not...
Thanx!!!
Rod Serling Fan Club
batchas
Cool. It's exactly what I understood.
Thanx a lot for your help!!!

I'll check this out soon.
batchas
Booooo....
I really wanted 2 INs to mix 2 signals directly...
brother303
Hi Jason,

payment sent for one CVP-pcb and panel.

Cheers
Greg
batchas
batchas wrote:
Booooo....
I really wanted 2 INs to mix 2 signals directly...

OK. I got my 2 INs now. Added resistors before banana plugs. Now mixes CV without problem. I prefer so as I do not see an advantage in having the original signal passed through instead.
batchas
Please delete. Thank you.
batchas
Please delete. Thank you.
craque
woot! did one last night in just a couple of hours...



had some nice stuff going with an a149-1 and barton quantizer, super fun.
batchas
I made all tests with v2.1 and everything's fine (fine tuning/calib will come later).

I have a question about some other connections:
1- is Ground. I took this one on each board.

What are the 2- for? Could I also have connected ground here?

Thank you!
iopop
"2-" Are holes for a MOTM or Euro power connector, if you're not using them, you could tap ground from that hole.
batchas
iopop wrote:
"2-" Are holes for a MOTM or Euro power connector, if you're not using them, you could tap ground from that hole.

Shit. I knew I was complicating me quite a lot!
Thanx a lot for the info!!!




Edited: "complicating" instead of "complicated"
bakedcircuit
any of these PCBs left? would love to nab 4 if you got 'em.

Thanks!

EDIT: just sent thru payment for 4 pcbs. thanks!
ju4n
Just sent payment for one pcb and panel. Much thanks!
negativspace
bakedcircuit wrote:
any of these PCBs left? would love to nab 4 if you got 'em.


Yes, plenty.
brother303
Hi,

panel and pcb arrived in Germany.

Thanks lot!

Cheers
Greg
batchas
The CVP in a Buchla config is a great module.
I'll post pix when knobs arrive and when I'll have finished the mixer.

Thanx negativspace for making these PCBs!!! Also Rod Serling Fan Club for the panels.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=990179#990179
very angry mobster
Just sent payment for 2 pcbs and 2 panels. Thanks!
negativspace
I think I can cover those two - if not it'll be about another week before I'm restocked on PCBs.

Batchas, I loved that patch! Great job on the build, too. screaming goo yo
very angry mobster
negativspace wrote:
I think I can cover those two - if not it'll be about another week before I'm restocked on PCBs.
no problem. smile
Funky40
Hello Jason,
is this the schematic after the V1 PCBs were built ?
found it in the allready mentioned EM thread, schematic posted by fonik


as far i understand the 33K47 can be 33K ?
Whats to change to get 2:1 output gain ?

i don´t get it oops ...coming back to DIY after 2years+ abstinence. eek!
I need some boards with gain


http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-13501-0.html&postdays=0&postorder =asc&highlight=
negativspace
The 33k47 resistor is either 33k or 47k - it depends on your supply voltage. Use 33k for 12v, 47k for 15v. That sets the voltage level of the offset to 5v. (You can change R7 and R9 to get an offset other than 5v, too, just recalculate them. They make up a simple passive divider.)

To get better performance, change R3 to 39k and T1 to 20-25k. This gives a wider range of gain trim - you might be able to hit 2 with that adjustment alone. (Lowering R3 even further can help.)
Funky40
ok, i understand.
I was surching on the output stage oops
way easier this way.
Guess i go with 33K then for R3 for the ones that are not for the Doepfer vocoder
much thanks !
withakay
Hi, are the PCBs / Panels in stock?

I would go for 2 sets if so...
negativspace
I've got PCBs again for those of you who were waiting. w00t
withakay
I received my panel and PCB a couple of weeks ago, it seems the board I have got is a v1.0 and looks reasonably different to the others shown more recently in this thread, as far as I can tell v2.1 is the most recent, so how come I was sent this? What are the differences?

Thanks in advance smile
negativspace
... That's actually a very good question. I didn't think there were any of those early boards left, even in my 'archives.' There are significant differences, including most critically the pot spacing. I'll need to send you a new one.
withakay
Gah, I wish I had noticed that before I populated the whole board! I guess it is time to learn how to desolder efficiently. I think I need a drink Dead Banana
negativspace
You're sure it's v1.0? I know I have a few 1.5s around, but that's ancient...
withakay
As sure as I can be. I am sure it says v1.0 on it.

http://imgur.com/YPra6

Crap 2:45am here, got to crash out
negativspace
Aha! Well, you'll wake up to good news. That's a PCB for the retail version of the module... there is no appreciable difference between that and the DIY version 2.1. The DIY board comes with MOTM-style power input and two holes for standoffs, but that's only a courtesy for non-Euro builders so not applicable to your build.

Don't desolder anything, you're good!
withakay
Ah cool!

Is there a ground pad to tie the jacks off to on this board (or is that something I don't need to do - I remember from an old electronics class the perils of lifting the ground wire... ) ?

EDIT Just read above that the is the small round pad by the LED ( I wasn't sure if the bi LEDs had three legs, not got mine yet...)

Can you post a picture of the bare production board (i.e. the one I have), I am trying to calibrate and getting strange values on meter and am wondering if I have placed some wrong value resistors very frustrating
negativspace
Yeah, the pad's down by the LED. It's not labelled but you can see the little connections to the ground plane.
withakay
I am getting a really low output from the offset.

I have the offset full CW and the level full CW and I am seeing 15ma :(
I not much of an electronics dude, but I am guessing that the TL072 is what provides the offset? I have tried changing that chip to one from another batch and still no dice.

I did solder on two LEDS, rather than a bi because I wanted to see if I could see what is going on, they are somewhat larger than required though, could they be making the issue worse?

Any help of advice greatly appreciated, although hey, it is the weekend so no worries if your busy thumbs up
negativspace
The offset is actually handled in the TL074, not the TL072. Using 2 LEDs shouldn't be any different than just the one - the bi-color LEDs I use are nothing more than 2 LEDs in one package so it's basically the same thing.

Is the input signal being processed by the attenuverter?
withakay
negativspace wrote:
The offset is actually handled in the TL074, not the TL072. Using 2 LEDs shouldn't be any different than just the one - the bi-color LEDs I use are nothing more than 2 LEDs in one package so it's basically the same thing.

Is the input signal being processed by the attenuverter?


Yes,

On the meter I get just below negative unity gain (-95% approx.) when fully CCW and around +15% when going fully CW.
withakay
I checked the trim pot too, that is measuring 50r to 19k end to end, so that looks good. Hmmm
negativspace
The trim range is pretty wide, but it sounds like something's off. The resistors all match up with the image in the first post of this thread, the PCBs are virtually the same.
withakay
So, I double checked all the resistors, I had a 47k in where the 4.7k should be. d'oh!

But, that has not solved the problem, just changed it.
I now only get about 20ma fully CW on the offset and 0ma fully CCW (with the level knob fully CW)

I measured all the resistors, two of my 47k resistors read 40k on the meter which is around 20% out - they are meant to be 5% tolerance.

I can't see how lower values would be resulting in a lower output though hmmm.....
withakay
Regrettably I am going to have consign this build to the trash.
I have no idea what is wrong.
Shame, would have been a bloody useful little module, maybe when I get over it I will order some more and try again.

Thanks for your help along the way!
negativspace
Don't trash it! I've built hundreds of modules on that PCB, it definitely works. Whatever's wrong with your build can therefore be fixed. Set it aside for a few days and come back fresh.

If that doesn't help, PM me. thumbs up
raisinbag
withakay wrote:
So, I double checked all the resistors, I had a 47k in where the 4.7k should be. d'oh!

But, that has not solved the problem, just changed it.
I now only get about 20ma fully CW on the offset and 0ma fully CCW (with the level knob fully CW)

I measured all the resistors, two of my 47k resistors read 40k on the meter which is around 20% out - they are meant to be 5% tolerance.

I can't see how lower values would be resulting in a lower output though hmmm.....


I'm pretty certain you will get wrong resistance readings when measuring resistors soldered in place in a circuit. I believe you will actually be measuring the resistor you are after plus others in parallel. You might actually have to read colour bands.
withakay
After your rousing post I had think about everything I had checked or tested. I rechecked the 50k pot, the wiper had an unmeasurably high resistance on my meter so I have have whipped of the pot (well yanked and pried really) and replaced it. The PCB is looking a bit worse for wear now, but it looks to be working as expected!

I feel pretty dumb not checking that before.

Thanks you for helping me through this.

Now I have one working I expect I will be ordering a couple more in the near future.

Now to get this thing trimmed up and have a wiggle smile
raisinbag
Hey that's great!!!!!! I have some on the way in the mail, can't wait till they arrive. They really look like a great untility to have in the rack. Glad to hear that its all workin and you are wiggling away. applause
negativspace
SlayerBadger!

Never underestimate the value of a 24-hour break in troubleshooting. I long ago lost count of the times where I'm totally stumped, put something away for a while, then come back to it and find the problem in the first 10 minutes.
felixer
would there be a way to have the level 'click' at the zero position?
i have a number of modules with those combined level/inverter pots and it's often tricky to adjust 'm to get exactly zero output .... esp live with little time and even less light ...
sduck
Use a pot with a center detent? Alpha makes several of these, they're quite handy.
felixer
yes, but with a 20% tolerance you would have to trim the centre detent being zero. i remember seeing some pots with an extra centre pin you could connect to ground. anybody know where to get those?
fluxmonkey
as mentioned, tolerances being what they are, you'll need to trim center-detent pots to get zero at the click. here's what i do:

--set pot at click center, and measure both sides with a VOM
--on the side that is lower in resistance, connect a small trimmer
--epoxy the trimmer to the back of the pot
--connect to the circuit, and then trim the pot to get the desired response at center

i find this easier than trying to trim to values out-of-circuit. i've done a few voltage processors like this, a little tedious but very very handy.

b



sduck wrote:
Use a pot with a center detent? Alpha makes several of these, they're quite handy.
Zergon
question about TL072: is it necessary to be "CN" or is "CP" also acceptable?
negativspace
Any suffix will work fine. thumbs up
sinemod
Ok i had bought one at analogue haven i love it so much that i bought some pcb and panels.
i finish my first CVP
Now when i feed the same signal to the one i build and the one from analogue haven. mine had a little problems. I look at the signal with the otool
my problem is with the negative offset. i turn the offset to max negative i see booth cvp end up at the same place but i 2 sec on mine the voltage will not stay where it suppose to be but instead will rise 2 or 3 volt.
little point i had to say i had a bunch of tl082 and i used one instead of the tl072.

I am still looking to build more of those they are so convenient !!
synaptech
Payment sent for two more sets! grin
stk
Payment sent for two, thanks w00t
batchas
...
batchas
...
stk
....and received. Thanks SlayerBadger!
negativspace
Wow, USPS has their shit together. That was really quick to Australia. w00t
stk
They've actually gotten a lot better of late, which is nice.

BTW, are there build-specific docs? (my ee noobishness is a little confused by the tiny pads under the ICs.. Jumpers, or..?)
Also, guessing the choice of 10 or 22uf caps are to choose the maximum lag time?

I'm currently trawling thru the previous 40+ pages, but y'know..
Monobass
STK it doesn't help you right now but I'm going to write a CVP build document in a couple of weeks, I'm going to be selling full CVP Kits and component kits on Thonk soon.
stk
@Monobass: cheers! well judging by my current schedule they may arrive just in time hihi

Actually my only real "huh?" moment was/is those tiny pads I mentioned hmmm.....
Monobass
I'm not at home so can't look at the PCB right now... they're not optional pads to fit an SMT IC instead maybe?
sduck

CVP &amp; Buffered Multiple front by sduck409, on Flickr[/img]
Monobass
wow, you're getting quite glam with the knobs now sduck smile
werock
stk wrote:
They've actually gotten a lot better of late, which is nice.

BTW, are there build-specific docs? (my ee noobishness is a little confused by the tiny pads under the ICs.. Jumpers, or..?)
Also, guessing the choice of 10 or 22uf caps are to choose the maximum lag time?

I'm currently trawling thru the previous 40+ pages, but y'know..


The real tiny 'pads' directly under where the IC's sit are via holes, which you don't need to populate with anything.
negativspace
stk wrote:
BTW, are there build-specific docs? (my ee noobishness is a little confused by the tiny pads under the ICs.. Jumpers, or..?)
Also, guessing the choice of 10 or 22uf caps are to choose the maximum lag time?


Those pads are just vias - a mechanism to bring a trace from one side of the board to another. Ignore 'em, they're already doing their job. hihi

The 1uF cap is in control of the slew time - I've had good results with smaller values there too. (470-680nF) The 10/22s are for power decoupling, the value isn't critical so just use whichever you happen to have on hand. I keep 22s around in bulk so that's what I use.
batchas
To complicate a bit (but make the CVP really cool for what I need) I added a mixer with pots to attenuate the mixed signals in the unused bottom row of the Buchla CVP module (+ add an attenuated 3.5" out too).
So now the output coming from PCB does not only go to
- Out 1: First output in the row
- Out 2: Second output in the row via Negativspace's mixer addon board to be inverted first,
but also to
- Out 3: to the CGS04 board via pot.

Everything works fine except one important thing:
The pot from the mixer output at the bottom influence the signal (if I turn pot 1, I'll hear its influence on Out 1).
So I tried a couple of different things, but without success.

If I disconnect the pot from the ground, it does not influence the signal anymore at Out 1, but when the pot is full CCW, it will of course also cut the signal completely, so this is not the solution.

In B I show what I also tried. I thought the solution would be to add another TL074 (or 084), so the signal does not "go back", but this also did not work. See pix, in B.
I thought this would be the solution but it is not.

I also tried to wire like it is done to invert the one out on the mixer addon board, but using the IN+ of the TL074, no the 1INV and this also did not work.

Do you know what I should do please?



I already have 6.5 boards (4 x cvp / 1 x mixer addon / 1 x CGS04 + my own extension for the pots) and I guess I have to add one more with a TL074/084?
Here some pix (sorry for the quality!!):
Back
Front
batchas
SOLVED:

After all the help I already got here, the precious and clear explanations from Dave and what I read online, I'm still needing help.... I am sorry. I learned a lot till now but this subject of AC and DC signals seems to not like me.
When I read that a DC signal always flows in the same direction, it's obvious that I'm still confused on the subject (or does it simply means that the output from the board is not a DC signal like I thought, but that it now needs to be transformed to a DC signal before it reaches the pot in my extra mixer?).

I re-read all the answers to my posts about current "coming back" and it seems I still have to learn on this subject.
I know about the resistor but it's not the true solution as it lowers the outgoing signal if too strong and still allows signal flowback when too weak... This is what I am experiencing on my CVP and what I would like to solve. Of course one could just leave it like it is now, but I'd really like to know how to do.

I thought an opAmp would do it for instance, but I'm not sure how to wire as I don't want to combine signals, but split them (without inversing 2 of 3). I took the circuit of a DC coupled voltage distributor and I'm showing what I did in B (see previous post), but without success.

I hope a friend here will be able to help as it seems a very basic matter in circuitry.
batchas
So. All solved (!).

Had the confirmation from negativspace that all should go well without opAmp add and no reason for signal flow-back. So I re-checked my wiring.

Simply mixed CW pot lug and middle lug...
Yes... Things can be very simple in circuitry.

In negativspace's message and precious help, there was also the correct wiring described... An optimal help indeed.
Monobass
I'm going to be selling some full kits of the CVP on Thonk, more info here

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1134019#1134019

negativspace
w00t
Monobass
Just writing CVP build doc... I can never resist an animated GIF at times like these nanners

Monobass
By the way, for people who have Panel and PCB but no parts.. I'm selling CVP parts kits very soon. Everything you need to build it, even screws and power cable.
negativspace
Monobass wrote:


eek!

we're not worthy we're not worthy
negativspace
Wow, this thread hasn't gone silent for this long in a while...

Time for an update!

I'm out of boards. Those of you who've ordered in the past couple of weeks, your orders have not shipped because I have no boards. I've ordered more, ETA 2 weeks, and your orders will be shipped as soon as those arrive.

Going forward I am upping the price on the set by a few dollars. (This is because my cost has increased, not because I'm a greedy bastard.) I will continue to keep them in stock as usual.
Monobass
I have full CVP kits in stock too, I can sell them.minus panel/PCB if anyone has those in their backlog.
tIB
Sorry if this has already been covered in here somewhere: will these run on 15v?
Monobass
yup, it's covered in the first post hihi
tIB
Ha! Thanks for humouring me. Guinness ftw!
Mongo1
Wow - what a day.

I finally got around to building 4 of these boards. Did the panel, L brackets etc. Mounted the boards and stuffed the components. Top soldered the parts (had a little trouble doing it) and then flipped the boards over to finish.

Total Shite. The back side of the boards has oxidized or corroded to the point where they won't take solder. Considered trying to remove all the parts, and doing something about this -but it's just not worth it.

I've never seen any boards do this. Wherever you had these things fabbed, I wouldn't use em again.

Gary
negativspace
That's tarnish from the silver in the ROHS finish. It's a common issue with that finish, although of the ~1,000 PCBs I've sold this is the first time anyone's mentioned it actually causing problems. I've had some pretty badly-tarnished boards over the years which still took solder just fine.

Best practice for storing such PCBs (and I'm far from the only one who uses the same fab house) is to keep them as dry as possible and preferably sealed in a plastic bag. Humidity is your enemy.

As far as cleaning them... probably easier to do without components installed but there are lots of methods for cleaning silver. I imagine they'll work on PCBs.
emmaker
Quote:
Total Shite. The back side of the boards has oxidized or corroded to the point where they won't take solder. Considered trying to remove all the parts, and doing something about this -but it's just not worth it.

I've never seen any boards do this. Wherever you had these things fabbed, I wouldn't use em again.


Sounds more like builder error. Like negativespace said the metal on the boards will oxidize over time. This is even more of a problem with new boards that have lead free plating. ALWAYS clean a board before you start soldering on it. Even if it looks nice and shinny. Take an abrasive eraser like a real Pink Pearl or an abrasive cleaner like Comet or Ajax and give both sides a good scrub. Clean with water, dry and then wipe down isopropyl alcohol. After all that is done solder the board up as soon as possible.

Soldering, painting and gluing are like brewing beer. CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Don't know how many batches of beer that have been ruined with contamination.
Mongo1
Negativspace- thanks for quick response. I've gotten some cleanser and a fingernail brush after them, and its definitely helping. My concern now is the stuff that was already top-soldered - if the thru-holes are contaminated I'm concerned about the longevity of the joints. Time will tell.


emmaker - thanks. Builder Error? I've built around 30 modules over the last few years, and have a backlog with a similar number of boards. These are the only boards I've ever seen do this. The only difference I can see between these boards and any others is that these came taped to a piece of cardboard, and I left them that way until I needed them. Perhaps that trapped moisture in them or some other odd phenomenon.

Gary
Mongo1
Well, after a bit more work, I think it may be a lost cause.

Some of the joints flow, but many don't.

Short of removing all of the components from all four boards, solderwicking out the holes, cleaning and starting over, it doesn't look like it's going to work.

I'll either breadboard this thing, or use some CGS81's I have handy

Thanks
Gary
emmaker
Mongo1 - I guess I have a bit more experience since I've been soldering 49 years and working in electronics on and off for 42 when not doing software. Tubes were cheaper than transistor when I started. Like I said I've been taught that you clean anything you solder, glue or paint as best you can and it always pays off. But we can all learn new things. Study up on some of the issues with lead free solder like oxidation and 'whiskers'. Watching a video on soldering from Youtube a couple of months ago has helped my surface mount soldering. I would clean my boards, put solder on the iron tip and solder IC pins. Worked ok but not great and I would usually have to solder wick away some of the bridges. The thing I learned is that when you put solder on the iron tip like this the flux is burnt off. So you end up soldering with no flux. Get some flux that you like (water soluble, no-clean, rosin) in a liquid or paste form and put it down on the pads before placing the parts and soldering. When you put the iron tip with solder next to the pad it flows and makes a good, clean joint. Since I've done this I haven't had to use any solder wick to clean things up.
Mongo1
Gosh Em - you're right. I've only been soldering since 1975 or so, so I guess I ought to get myself together and try to figure out what I'm doing.

Thanks for your advice, but the condescension is not very helpful.

Gary.
raisinbag
Hey mongo did you try that stuff called "silvo" (I think it's called). My parents used to have stuff for cleaning brass and silver and I know the stuff for brass is called Brasso. So I think the stuff for silver is silvo. Anyway, always cleaned the shit off silverware and coins like crazy!!!!
negativspace
It has nothing to do with builder error, it's just something that happens to that particular board finish if it's exposed to the air for a long period of time. It usually doesn't have any real effect on solderability; sometimes it slows heat transfer a little, but it sounds like this is an extreme case. It is what it is.

Gary, a scrub or two with clean water (or distilled/RO/etc) and a good rinse should take care of any residual tarnish removal product if you go that route.
Mongo1
Thanks raisin - I think I'm probably hosed at this point, but I appreciate the suggestion...

Gary
Mongo1
Woo hoo! I finally got this project finished - thanks to Neg for his support. Over and above the call of duty IMO.

So - now I've got a single-wide MOTM module with 4 CVPs in it. Channel 1&2 have the Offset and Gain controls, while channels 3&4 have Offset, Gain, and Glide. I had to do it that way to fit it all in.

The only mod I did was to change the 1 uF glide electrolytic to a 2.2 uF ceramic. The glide can now stretch til next Tuesday if needed. I also put 47 uF filter caps on one channel, instead of the 10's on each individual board.

Thanks again to all you wigglers for your support!

Gary
emmaker
I traced out the front end on the 2.0 board and it doesn't make sense to me. Hopefully I got it right, maybe not. Some people are saying that the THROUGH output is working. Don't know if that is with the 2.0 boards that I looked at. So could someone enlighten me on how this works of if I got it wrong?



I guess if I was doing it I would do it like below to avoid running the signal through two op amps.



Thanks in advance.
Jay
negativspace
From memory that looks correct... the slightly odd configuration came about because the circuit and board were already done and I simply grafted on the Through buffer (and changed the location of the LED tap, I think.)

It certainly does work, I've sold nearly 1000 of these in both kit and pre-built form and I've yet to hear of or experience one instance in which it doesn't.
emmaker
Thanks negitivspace.

Quote:
From memory that looks correct... the slightly odd configuration came about because the circuit and board were already done and I simply grafted on the Through buffer (and changed the location of the LED tap, I think.)


Just wanted to check. Seems to me it would be like a current sink trying to match the voltage on the - input with the + input. But if it works, it works.

Thanks again.
Jay S.
negativspace
I think my idea was to set up an input buffer whose output feeds both the rest of the processor circuit as well as an independent output buffer. One advantage to that arrangement is that the Through output has an entire opamp's worth of current-supplying capacity all to itself, which can be helpful if you want to drive a bunch of inputs from that one jack without any droop.

(I'm not sure it really makes much difference in practice but at the design-skill level I was operating at in 2011 it made sense to me!)

The net result, though, is an accurate buffered mult which is capable of driving a handful of oscillators all by itself. I tested the hell out of it before I committed it to copper. hihi
woodster
I've built two of these and the Through socket works as expected on both.
One the second build, the center offset position was fractionally out, so the LED would be very slightly lit.
I tried the trimmer, but it didn't really seem to have any effect, so I just re tweaked the knob position to solve it.
It made me wonder what the trimmer trims ?
Great little module, totally underrated imho.
negativspace
The trimmer adjusts the total gain of the processor. Set it up for 1.000 and use it with pitch CVs if you want, or give it a little gain if you need it. (I think it'll go close to 2:1... I tested it once but it's been a couple years.)

It does make a great VCO controller with lots of buffered outputs and onboard glide. 8_)
woodster
aah,

Nice one thumbs up

Will have a further tweak as an experiment.
paperCUT
There's no instructions about how to adjust the trimmer that i can find hmmm..... I assume you plug a stable voltage in, set the pot for max gain (or 'level' on the front panel) and adjust the trimmer so the output matches the input?

The voltage offset will make this a little tricky...
raisinbag
Hey does anyone have a pic of how they mounted their LED to the board version with led pads near power header? Im hoping I can mount led to board and just bend leads (so no flying wires). I am having a mind melt moment and would love to see how someone did theirs.
raisinbag
Well i guess I wont be seeing any pics hihi so last question, is the square pad for the anode? (I have the newer pcb) I saw the mention of bi-colour LED so I was a bit confused
sduck
It does use a bi-color LED, if you have one. Maybe do a quick test with what you've got not soldered in place - turn the offset knob from the center. If it's a regular led, it should light up as you turn clockwise from center, and stay dark below center. If it's a bi-color one, adjust the orientation so that it lights the way you want it either way (I have green for positive, red for negative - how original!).

Adjusting the trimmer - I seem to recall using it to make the offset centered. Gain all the way up, glide down, nothing in the input, try to adjust the trimmer so the output is as close to zero as you can get with the offset knob in the middle (or you can adjust it to get similar positive and negative offsets at the knob extremes).
raisinbag
Thanks sduck, I have never seen a 2 lead LED before, only 3 lead. I'll have to do some reading to find an appropriate one. Cheers.
negativspace
Raisin, I'll get you a photo ASAP. I've gotta shoot my VCA as well so the camera is on my agenda tonight. You can use the PCB holes to mount the LED to the panel, it just takes 2 bends. thumbs up

There's a link to the bicolor LED I use in the BOM in the first post.

As for the trimmer, I'm sure that's somewhere in this (93 page) thread... but my approach is to max the Level, zero out the Offset and then trim to get the gain of the module to exactly 1.000. If you don't need yours to be that precise, either of sduck's approaches are perfectly valid. And don't worry if you can't zero out the offset. Get it under 0.010V just add that to the output when you trim. (i.e. with a 5.000V input you would be looking to measure 5.010V at the output, or whatever the offset actually is.) I usually get it to within +/-0.002 or so when I trim them here.

I think the original purpose of the trimmer was to set the zero point of the panel knob, but I tweaked the circuit a few times and this was one of the changes I made.
Poldenstein
Hi this is what I saved in my notes. I must have copied it from somewhere in this thread

Quote:
You can do this with a multimeter to measure the voltages - the O'tool also works great. Here's the easy way:

1) Zero out the OFFSET control so that the processor outputs 0.00v.
2) Apply a constant voltage to the input - say +5.00v.
3) Adjust trimmer until the output matches the input @ 5.00v.

If you have neither tool, use two VCOs:

1) Set two VCOs so they're in perfect tune.
2) Plug the CVP output into one VCO and the '-->' output into the other.
2) Zero out the OFFSET control so that the VCOs are once again in perfect tune.
4) Apply a constant voltage to the CVP input - say +5.00v.
5) Adjust the trimmer until the two VCOs are once again in perfect tune.

raisinbag
Thanks! I'll grab a 2 lead bicolor led when I go to city next. Thanks. Can't wait to see under the hood.
negativspace
Here's a shot of a built CVP with the panel removed. Should be pretty obvious how the LED goes in, so I'll just let the pictures do the talking.



raisinbag
SlayerBadger! Spankx
sduck
raisinbag wrote:
Thanks sduck, I have never seen a 2 lead LED before, only 3 lead. I'll have to do some reading to find an appropriate one. Cheers.


Here's the mouser number for the Lumex one I used - 696-SSI-LXH387HGW
CometxYh1n1egyPt
Hey,
I just wanted to make sure that you still have panels and pcb's for this. If so I'd like to order 2 panels and pcb's. Just give me the word and I'll send paypal right away.

Thanks,
Luke
negativspace
Yes, I have plenty left. (And I'll restock them when they get low anyway.)
CometxYh1n1egyPt
Great. Just sent payment.

Thanks,
Luke
L.C.O.
Got mine!
Such a great kit: fast build, awesome documentation, AND a fantastic module!
great balance of small HP footprint, and super useful functionality!

raisinbag
Hey Im looking at the picture that NegSpace posted regarding LED and My shitty eyes cant see where the flat spot is on LED. Can anyone confirm which pad the square one is? Anode OR Cath?
negativspace
Square = long lead... that's how I remember it.
raisinbag
Cool man, you made it back in too! woo hoo. Thanks, Im bending Leads as we speak.
horstronic
Is there any way I can get the schematics for PCB Version 1.5?
I bought these from a fellow wiggler and can't find any information about it.
negativspace
I think v1.5 is still basically done on the schematic I got from fonik's site. I tweaked a few things and added a couple features in v2 and I do have that schematic... but I probably ditched the old one after the revision. (Actually it probably just got saved over with the new one. Most likely I just changed the file and hit save.)

Is something in particular causing you a problem?
horstronic
negativspace wrote:
I think v1.5 is still basically done on the schematic I got from fonik's site. I tweaked a few things and added a couple features in v2 and I do have that schematic... but I probably ditched the old one after the revision. (Actually it probably just got saved over with the new one. Most likely I just changed the file and hit save.)

Is something in particular causing you a problem?


That's answering my questions. Didn't know it was foniks design and the schematics on his site are covering all I wanted to know.
Thank you!
negativspace
Welcome! w00t
concretic
One PCB and panel overseas <3 I'm sending payment now.
transistor logic
you can never ever have enough CVP's . when i get my shit together i'll order a bunch more of those.

easy build, pleasant use . the manhattan analog CVP is the kit for you !thumbs up

glad to see they are and will be in stock
negativspace
Maco
Want 2PCB please
transistor logic
Guitar

my two cvp's
are feeling very lonely
need more pcb's
and got to build them promptly
DrNate
Hi, is anyone able to help me debug my cvp please? I got the kit pre 'built' by even more of a novice than me, but not working. It was missing the trimming resistor which ive added, and corrected a couple of wiring mistakes. my cvp is now just putting out a constant voltage which varies with the slew knob. The other controls have no effect. The pass thru works ok, and the led works. All the components seem correctly placed and oriented. I've reflowed quite a few joints and I think they're ok. I'm using a multimeter to test the joints where i can. Do you think its worth swaping in new ic's in case I blew them? Any troubleshooting tips? I really want to be good at this, but I'm at the frustrating skill level. Thanks!
DrNate
Pretty please anyone? Ordering new chips would cost, so I'd like to try and diagnose the issue rather than just throw money at it. Cheers!
iopop
DrNate wrote:
my cvp is now just putting out a constant voltage which varies with the slew knob.


Swapping ICs would most likely not solve your problem since you have an voltage output that you can adjust. If you check the schematics, (Only I found so far, is at http://www.modular.fonik.de/Page15.html) , the signal goes through U1 before going out. Hence the ic should be ok. I would suspect you have a solder bridge somewhere.

Will the LED vary in intensity depending on your input signal?
DrNate
Thanks for taking the time to help! The Led seems to remain constantly lit. The output varies from about -3v downwards as I turn the slew knob. I can't see any bridges but I'll keep checking, thanks smile
DrNate
Is it safe to poke around in the circuit with a multimeter to debug when its switched on to check voltages? Or is that a really bad idea? I can do it without getting anywhere near mains current, but will it damage the board? Cheers, nate smile
horstronic
DrNate wrote:
Is it safe to poke around in the circuit with a multimeter to debug when its switched on to check voltages? Or is that a really bad idea? I can do it without getting anywhere near mains current, but will it damage the board? Cheers, nate smile


That is actually a pretty good idea 8_)
Just try not to short anything!
negativspace
Just saw this... sorry. d'oh!

If you are getting proper operation from the through output that means the LT1013 is working fine, along with the input section and the power rails. The rest happens on the TL074 so it's possible you have an issue there.

It's worth inspecting the PCB for shorts beneath the soldermask, that does crop up occasionally.

And you're welcome to post a PCB photo, sometimes a second look by another set of eyes can help. thumbs up
medbot
In for one!
atari5200
In for one a w00t s well
camelneck
negativspace wrote:
It has nothing to do with builder error, it's just something that happens to that particular board finish if it's exposed to the air for a long period of time. It usually doesn't have any real effect on solderability; sometimes it slows heat transfer a little, but it sounds like this is an extreme case. It is what it is.

Gary, a scrub or two with clean water (or distilled/RO/etc) and a good rinse should take care of any residual tarnish removal product if you go that route.


I had this problem with Thomas White's 292 PCBs. I made a solution of baking soda and water and soaked the PCB in it for about 10 minutes and it removed all the tarnish. (This is an old trick that was used to clean silver coins.) You might also try using a finger nail brush or Scotchbrite pad if the tarnish is really bad.
camelneck
Ignore
camelneck
When I purchased my 4 rev 2.0 PCBs about 2 years ago, I remember there was some confusion about how this PCB suppose to be wired. Thus, I figured it might be a good idea to tone out the PCB and make a crude schematic. (I'd post the schematic, but it is so crude it would probably cause nothing but confusion.)

I then compared the rev 2.0 schematic with Fonik's original schematic, which is the only official schematic that I am aware of. Anyway, where Fonik buffered the final output with an op amp that was configured as voltage followers (the Out pin and In- are shorted together in this configuration), you inserted a 470 ohm resistor between pins 6 & 7. Instead of connecting the output pads to pin 7, you connected them directly to pin 6 (In-) of the op amp.

I'll admit that this circuit will work, but is there a reason why you chose to use such strange buffers when you could have used a voltage follower or a unity gain buffer. (It appears like you put the output impedance resistor (470 ohm) in the wrong place. However, when you noticed that the circuit still worked you just left it alone.)

I also noticed that you used this same type of buffer on the buffered input/thru output, and again, I don't understand why. Could you explain?
My only concern about this design is that it could (?) effect 1V/Oct calibration since this buffer isn't a true unity gain buffer. (I'm too lazy to do the math right now! smile

It would be very easy to change these buffers to unity gain buffers. Simply replace the spots on the PCB that call for 470 ohm resistors with short circuit links. Then one could add an output impedance resistor (either a 470 ohm, 680 ohm or 1K resistor) that determines the output impedance. Simply solder a resistor to each output jack and wire each output pad to the unsoldered side of each resistor. This is a very simple fix, although the resistors are soldered to jacks instead of being on the circuit board.

UPDATE: Having built one of these PCBs, I must say that the output of the buffer is exactly what it should be. So there is no need to make any modifications to this circuit. Jason, please forgive me for doubting your design.

I might add that I'm really impressed with the operation of the LEDs. With no CV input connected, the LEDs enabled me to precisely adjust the DC offset to 0.000V. (Simply turn the Offset Pot until both LEDs are completely off.)
negativspace
Those 470R resistors are simply output resistors which are inside the feedback loop of their respective op amp stages. That's how it compensates for load as you plug it into multiple destinations, which was a critical (IMO) design decision.

A quick doublecheck of the schematic and PCB files shows that they're implemented correctly, which is probably why there are more than a thousand of these out there and nobody's ever complained. hihi
woodster
I've built two of these, and use them all the time.
I only have a small system currently (waiting on parts for the backlog), so can only imagine I'll grab more as my system grows.
Fantastic little unit, I keep finding more and more uses for it as time goes by.
bgpitts
Those 470R resistors are simply output resistors which are inside the feedback loop of their respective op amp stages.
woodster
That's a great first post. applause
DrNate
Thanks for your help guys! I've got my first diy module working! I'm very happy. Actually someone else gave up on it and I got it working. Which in retrospect is harder than building one from scratch as I needed to undo pretty much everything and rebuild it. I learnt a lot and have a fun new module. I was close to writing it off but your support spurred me on, so thanks again. I think the problem was basically bad solder joints. I'm feeling inspired to tackle more projects now smile
concretic
concretic wrote:
One PCB and panel overseas <3 I'm sending payment now.


Build one.. its so damn useful! There is never enough CVP's : )) I'll order more later..
camelneck
SUBJECT: DEFECTIVE PCB FOUND!

I finally got around to building my CV Processor Module based upon RSFC's 4U Buchlaesque panel. Last night I installed 3 of the 4 CV Processors. The installations went very smoothly and the PCBs work great. I'm really impressed with this module especially the function of the LED's. When you get both of them to go out you know the output is 0.000V.

This morning I planned to install the 4th CV Processor PCB, HOWEVER, this simple procedure had to be cancelled when I discovered I had a defective PCB. I first noticed the problem when I did a continuity test across TL084 pin 11 (-15V) and ground. Instead of telling me I had an open circuit, the continuity tester told me that -15V power rail was shorted to ground.

Naturally, the first thing I did was look for bad solder joints and undesired solder bridges. I also gave the PCB another good cleaning. However, this was all to no avail. I could not find any unwanted solder bridges.

I then decided to remove each of the 3 capacitors in the event one of them had shorted to ground. However, once I removed them they all tested good and the short was still present on the -15V rail.

Next, I removed both of the ICs and their associated sockets, but the short-to-gnd was still present and no solder bridges had formed underneath the sockets. Finally, as a last resort, I decided to remove every component from the PCB. However, with all components removed, there was still a short-to-gnd on the -15V power rail.

With the negative lead of my ohm meter connected to ground, I slarted probing the various solder pads on the PCB. This was when I discovered a 2nd PROBLEM with this PCB.

I discovered that both of the 680 ohm resistor pads were shorted to ground. (No current can pass through the 680 ohm resistor if both ends of it are shorted to ground.) One end of the 680 ohm resistor supposed to be grounded, but the other end of the resistor, which connects to the 4.7K resistor, should not be shorted to ground.

I have thoroughly examined the PCB under a magnifying lens and no where on the PCB do I see any unwanted solder bridge connections. Although I've never encounted a problem like this before, I'm quite confident that the PCB is defective.

The bottom line is I desparately need a replacement PCB so I can complete this module. I need a rev 2.0 PCB or one that is equivalent with a 1 inch pot spacing.

Jason, do you still have at least one PCBs that I can purchase or exchange?

Thanks.
camelneck
negativspace wrote:
Those 470R resistors are simply output resistors which are inside the feedback loop of their respective op amp stages. That's how it compensates for load as you plug it into multiple destinations, which was a critical (IMO) design decision.


Jason,
Having NOW built several of these PCBs, I must admit that the CV Processors (well, 3 of the 4) are working perfectly. So I apologize for having raised any doubts concerning your design change.

I suppose I got hung up on the fact that the output buffer isn't a true unity gain voltage follower, which has a short circuit instead of a resistor in the op amp's feedback path. However, I guess it doesn't have to be a unity gain buffer as long as the gain on the op amp associated with the attenuverting pot is tweaked high enough so it compensates for this loss of gain.

As you connect more and more devices to the output of the buffer, I understand this will effectively lower the overall input resistance and an ideal op amp expects an input resistance that is infinitely high. So I see why you are concerned about this.

However, I don't quite understand how this revised buffer better compensates for changing loads. Nevertheless, I'll take your word for it.

It may be due to the fact that you lowered the output impedance from 1k to 470R. An ideal voltage buffer should have an output resistance of zero and 470R is closer to 0 ohms.
samuraipizzacat29
I have a bunch of these pcbs and panels if anyone wants. Probably about 20. For whatever price (or slightly cheaper) than negativspace originally sold. Some of the pcbs are partly stuffed. take one or all.

Thanks
Nate
negativspace
Useful right now - I'm temporarily out of PCBs. If you need one before the beginning of July, consider Nate's offer. hihi
negativspace
camelneck wrote:

However, I don't quite understand how this revised buffer better compensates for changing loads. Nevertheless, I'll take your word for it.


To be completely honest, I'm not sure about the precise explanation either. I'm certain that my understanding of it is incomplete, although I think I get the gist of it. I'm not an electrical engineer so I often take the advice of and accept the explanations of those who are - in this case it was a trick I picked up from Ken Stone. (Although he's far from being the first or only one to use it.)
samuraipizzacat29
you should post 8 more times today smile
euromorcego
may I asked if the schematics are available for this one (it is such a long thread, I must admit I haven't read everything).

I found the schematics from fonik for a dual voltage processor. That must be the one where the CVP is based on, right?
If available, i would also like to have a look on this one, but don't seem to be able to locate it.
negativspace
Yeah, that's what it's based on. I made a few tweaks to that design (output buffers' feedback resistors moved inside the loop, LED driver tap moved to post-lag circuit, and an input buffer for the '-->' output. And changed the input resistor/trimmer values to 39k+20kTP.)

I probably have the schematics somewhere but it's been years since I've looked at them. eek!
synthcube
greetings
we are now stocking full kits for this great little module in the store

http://synthcube.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4 41
woodster
Apologies if the info is in this thread, but I didn't see it.
Any tips on calibrating with the trimmer ?
What voltages should I be looking for, and where to probe with the Multimeter ?

Edit : found it on page 77 lol
negativspace
thumbs up
BARE BONES
what size of resettable fuse should be used?
samuraipizzacat29
you can click the link in the first post to take you to the mouser page thumbs up
QuantumMechanakillWave
Are these currently available? I would like 4! love
negativspace
Yes, these are in the permanent collection. More will be available as long as I am still on this planet. thumbs up
QuantumMechanakillWave
Payment sent!

Would you happen to have the schematic? It helps me learn as I stuff the modules, as well as if I need to troubleshoot.


Thanks!
BARE BONES
samuraipizzacat29 wrote:
you can click the link in the first post to take you to the mouser page thumbs up


maybe im blind but I can't see any Mouser link for the resettable fuses in the first post?

I've used 30v and under as I had some lying around, the module works just want to be sure the rating is correct so nothing can get damaged
samuraipizzacat29
just click where it says ptc resettable fuse thumbs up

here's it copy/pasted
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/MF-R005-0/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu7E FbsM1w0nRGd783S%2f%2fWAaduQtTq4jng%3d
QuantumMechanakillWave
Received 4 pcb's!

Placed an order for 3 more!

w00t
negativspace
Sent. w00t

Nate, thanks for sorting the PTC situation. thumbs up
QuantumMechanakillWave
Thanks!

I am excited to build all 7 of my pcbs!

It is an extremely useful utility module.

I hope that you get some time to export the schematic. It is really helpful for us beginners to follow along. It really helps me gain an understanding of how the circuit works.

Thanks for the awesome project

we're not worthy
negativspace
Ah yes, the schematic... I need to do some tweaking to some other things which will require borrowing bits from the CVP schematic. I'll take the opportunity to export it while it's open. Few filters to finish for SB and then I'm on it.
QuantumMechanakillWave
negativspace wrote:
Ah yes, the schematic... I need to do some tweaking to some other things which will require borrowing bits from the CVP schematic. I'll take the opportunity to export it while it's open. Few filters to finish for SB and then I'm on it.


Thanks so much!

SlayerBadger!
QuantumMechanakillWave
*Edited because I answered my own question.


nearly finished building 7 CVP's!

Need to get more jacks tomorrow!
QuantumMechanakillWave
Hey! What is the part number for those red/blue LEDs that you guys have been mentioning? hmmm.....
negativspace
No idea, the ones I was using were a cheap ebay score.
QuantumMechanakillWave
Ok, the hunt is on!
negativspace
I bet I have a few left, but I also bet even harder that I don't have enough for your (7?) CVPs.
QuantumMechanakillWave
negativspace wrote:
I bet I have a few left, but I also bet even harder that I don't have enough for your (7?) CVPs.


All se7en are complete and calibrated, btw. They all worked perfectly 1st time! Awesome, and super useful module!

Excellent work negative space!

Highly recommended! Fast shipping!
atte
Sorry if this is already in the thread, but does anyone have a mouser BOM?
samuraipizzacat29
everything that's non-standard should be links in the first post
negativspace
The only things you can't get @ Mouser are basically the 3 pots... I'd go with Thonk for those since you're in DK but for others' reference they're also available at Erthenvar, Small Bear, and I believe Banzai Music among others.

I think there are actually part numbers for the "tricky" stuff in the OP of this thread. (Edit: ok it's links, not numbers, but same result.)
atte
I'm sourcing for three builds, and have a few questions

negativspace wrote:

[2] 10uF/22uF electrolytic


Is that one of each or can I choose? Brief explanation about why, in case either one would do the job equally fine?

negativspace wrote:

[1] TL072CN or LT1013, both available @ Mouser


Any reason I would choose one over the other?

negativspace wrote:

[2] 50k Linear
[1] 1M Audio


Those are the pots accessible from the front panel, right?

For one build I'm doing a "regular" build, so would that mean 2x "VERTICAL: B50K – 50K Linear" and 1x "VERTICAL: A1M – 1M Audio" as found here:
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/alpha-9mm-pots/
I'm especially in doubt if I should choose "vertical" or "right angle" and if the general physical would fit. Note to myself: remember to buy knobs :-)

For the other two builds I don't want the pots to change by accident, these builds should have no pots on panel, so I'm thinking trim pots behind the panel. Could I use 2x "50K – Trimmer (25 Turns)" and 1x "1M – Trimmer (25 Turns)" as found here:
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/25-turn-trimmer-potentiometer/
Here I'm mostly in doubt whether they would fit physically, ie will the legs fit on the PCB and will they be able to be hidden behind the panel?

Also regarding the last to builds (no pots on front panel): I'm planing to do these after finishing the regular build, since I guess it's easier to leave some decisions to when I have the parts in my hand. But can I fit two boards behind one 8HP blanking panel? And will it be enough to leave all physical connection of PCB to panel to the screws on the jacks?

Finally: Will the power connection and jacks be included in the order (3x PCB and 1x panel), that I ordered from negativspace?
samuraipizzacat29
1) Electrolytics are for power filtering. It doesn't matter which you choose. Differences in capacitance will technically filter different frequencies of power ripple. Either capacitor here accomplishes a similar job. I would use 10microfarad if you have them around or are buying in bulk. Use 22mF if you're ordering just those two.

2)I've only ever used tl072. Any pin correct op-amp will work, might do slightly different things depending on the gain and frequency. You'd have to understand the datasheet to select an op-amp to fit your purpose if you're selecting an op-amp based on purpose.

3)The pots are mounted at a right angle.
3b)the trimmers should fit fine, plenty of space between the holes and the front of the pcb. I understand it seems like you want the specific functions available and hardwired, but, still, I'd have put them behind a panel and then you could patch whatever you wanted. It is modular after all.... Feel free to ignore, it seems like you have your idea in mind thumbs up

4)I can't speak for him, but no, I would not think you'd get anything other than pcbs and panels. That stuff should be available at Thonk.
atte
Thanks for the answers. A few things remains unclear hmmm.....

I obviously supply the power cable, but how is it attached to the module? Is that what the

[1] 10-pin Euro or 4-pin MTA-156 (Straight or Right-angle.) (MOTM)

are for (thinking the 10-pin http://www.mouser.dk/ProductDetail/3M/929836-01-05/?qs=QV10cN0MjFtpArM W9CpVoA%3d%3d since I'm building for euro)? If so how does that translate into something I place my power cable over? If not, how do I handle connecting power cable to the module?

EDIT:
Searching for TL072CN at mousers give me only this, which is not in stock:
http://www.mouser.dk/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/TL072CN/?qs=%2fh a2pyFaduhUjhTfIx8RfHMot%2fDkE5NnBLKrCqWKSfY%3d

Can I use this instead:
http://www.mouser.dk/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TL072CPE4/?qs=sGA EpiMZZMuo%252bmZx5g6tFIlXxqahSogE

Regarding jacks, would these work:
https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj302m/
atte
small bump hmmm.....
Joonatin
Op-amp should be fine. If you're ever going to build something else, you probably want something like this as the pin header http://www.mouser.dk/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/4-103777-0/?qs=sGAE piMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm48SVpWlpfsEOpCgG9w57Hg%3d

You can cut it to size with clippers. Eurorack power connector is just the generic 2x5 pin header. Also, if you ever want to build something else, get plenty of extras on the cheap components like resistors and caps. Tayda is also an extremely cheap option for generic stuff, though you might want to buy quality op-amps etc. from mouser, Farnell or other large distributors. TL072s and stuff like that is usually fine from Tayda too and the Alpha Pots they sell seem to work well. Resistors cost 1c a piece there so usually you want to take at least a hundred.
samuraipizzacat29
tayda does not have right angle .1" spacing pots - fyi
ZZ Ardoz
edit for unneeded input
ZZ Ardoz
Finished the build and everything works great
atte
I finished most of the kit, just looking at the board, seemed pretty simple. However I'm a bit stuck at the wiring/jacks. Found a MA_CVP_Kit_Instructions_v1.0.pdf somewhere that supposedly has been shipped with a thonkian cvp kit at some point.

My jacks are different, and I'd rather *understand* what I should do, and even better why.

So which connections should I make on the jacks and how do I identify them (could I plug in a cable and look for continuity from tip and sleeve to back side of jacks?)?

Hope someone would care to explain a bit for a noob confused
ZZ Ardoz
atte wrote:
I finished most of the kit, just looking at the board, seemed pretty simple. However I'm a bit stuck at the wiring/jacks. Found a MA_CVP_Kit_Instructions_v1.0.pdf somewhere that supposedly has been shipped with a thonkian cvp kit at some point.

My jacks are different, and I'd rather *understand* what I should do, and even better why.

So which connections should I make on the jacks and how do I identify them (could I plug in a cable and look for continuity from tip and sleeve to back side of jacks?)?

Hope someone would care to explain a bit for a noob confused


Which jacks are you using - can you post a photo?
atte
I'm using PJ302M bought at thonks:

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj302m/
ZZ Ardoz
atte wrote:
I'm using PJ302M bought at thonks:

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/pj302m/


You should be fine with those - use your meter to figure out which pin is which and you'll be good to go using the instructions
atte
So I'm an idiot help

Should tip or sleeve of cable go to ground?
Should ground also be soldered on back of front panel?
If I wire ground from tip or sleve the other (sleeve or tip) to the relevant holes on PCB, is that it?
ZZ Ardoz
atte wrote:
So I'm an idiot help

Should tip or sleeve of cable go to ground?
Should ground also be soldered on back of front panel?
If I wire ground from tip or sleve the other (sleeve or tip) to the relevant holes on PCB, is that it?


The tip is the signal, the sleeve is ground - the rest is best seen in the instructions which has photos of the whole shebang
atte
Thanks, got it!
ZZ Ardoz
atte wrote:
Thanks, got it!
Nice one!
ZZ Ardoz
Just finished, calibrated and got immediate wonderful results from - thanks for another great module - pairs nicely with the System X Envelope, and your CVP and CP3 - cheers!
atte
First CVP finished, the most fun build I did so far!
negativspace
Nice work guys, glad you got 'em working. Sorry I've missed this thread all week, been a busy one with a bunch of orders wrapping up all in one big lump.
ZZ Ardoz
negativspace wrote:
Nice work guys, glad you got 'em working. Sorry I've missed this thread all week, been a busy one with a bunch of orders wrapping up all in one big lump.


Thanks - the VCA not only sounds great, but got me over my fear of surface mount - thanks so much
atte
three more CVPs done and calibrated w00t
Kirr
I've recently bought a CVP board+panel from Modular Addict - PCB version 1.0 arrived. Quite surprising that 1.0 old stock still exists - is it that unpopular, or does someone keep reissuing the 1.0?

I'm curious where the newer versions can be found? (It's perpetually out of stock at Thonk.)
charonme
is there a specific reason two 1N4001 diodes are required instead of 1N581x? Is the circuit specifically designed for a higher voltage drop on the polarity protection diodes?
jonen
I cant get mine to work. The trimmer does not effect the attenuation/amplification at all. I decoupled the offset for debugging, and I measure an output between 10v whit level pot fully cw and -10v when fully ccw. This should be zero with no input right? I have this behaviour with a steady 1v input and even without it. The problem seems to be around the first op in the tl074, (pin 1=output of op1 has already the +10v respective -10v) but I can't tell whats causing it.

I replaced it with 2 other tl074 but that did not change anything. I also double checked the 39k and 47k resistors, as well as the trimmer.

Any ideas what else to check?

Edit: I have found a weird behaviour. The red points in these photos (front+back) are connected to ground on my pcb, which they are not supposed to, right? But I cant seem to figure out why. I removed the 47k resistor and the trimpot, and all the pads look fine to me. The only one I can check is below the socket for the tl074.

Front:

Back:
negativspace
Every now and then I get a board with a bridge to ground under the solder mask. It's happened less in recent batches than those from 2 or 3 years ago, but it may explain your grounded pads. I can usually find the offending bit of copper with a loupe or magnifying glass, and a quick cut with an xacto should take care of it if that's what's up.

I'm on vacation until the 20th, if you don't sort it out by then I will grab one of mine and check it out in greater detail.
jonen
Thanks for the hint, I did cut off some pads and now it is disconnected from ground and works great. Thanks again!
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