Any chance you would post to youtube or vimeo? I've tried watching this twice and it just says "loading..." forever.jooks wrote:
Here is a short clip of testing the swamp panel and the first best of cgs panel. A little melancholy tune with uncalibrated modules (but working!)
edit: don´t know how to embed it...
Best of CGS Build Thread
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Here's a tune I did with the SWAMP panel.
It's basically the SWAMP sequencing (The gate comparator handles the VCO and the programmer a few other functions) and a TR-606 through a frequency shifter.
Goldriech-Tremaine.mp3
It's basically the SWAMP sequencing (The gate comparator handles the VCO and the programmer a few other functions) and a TR-606 through a frequency shifter.
Goldriech-Tremaine.mp3
No PM's please! Send an e-mail - ttsh(a)thehumancomparator.net
Information regarding the Two Thousand Six Hundred DIY project - > http://www.thehumancomparator.net
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"Oh Batman, why you got to be so heteronormative?".
Information regarding the Two Thousand Six Hundred DIY project - > http://www.thehumancomparator.net
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"Oh Batman, why you got to be so heteronormative?".
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Thanks!!Red Electric Rainbow wrote: Fuck. I want it. How many oscillators are in there?
The system officially has just 2 OSC's . . . BUT technically up to 10 OSC's can be patched (not including the TKB as a wave-shaping OSC): 1x NTO, 1x PVCO, 1x DTG = 2x osc, 1x TGO = 2x osc, 1x TGC = 2x osc, 2x VCFQ.
Thank you - Hope your day is awesome!
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Quick question for you guys. So I'm getting ready to build the CGS / serge panels from zthee. I've ordered 2 bogs and a swamp and am trying to fig out the deal with the banana jack colors. The pic of the swamp doesn't really work for me jack wise (the all red) and I'd like to get as close to what a real serge would have. Can anyone give me a heads up on what each color is suppose to represent? Thanx guys.
Also any recommendations on where to buy the banana cables, or do you guys make your own?
Also any recommendations on where to buy the banana cables, or do you guys make your own?
works for Darkplace Manufacturing
Q: What is the color coding on the banana jacks?
A. Red is used for trigger signals, Blue for DC coupled signals, Black for AC coupled signals, and purple is used for sync.
http://www.serge-fans.com/new.html
In addition yellow and green also appear through Serge history for special uses and purple also appears on the Animal panel for the pink noise out.
If it makes any difference though, this is your DIY and you should feel free to use whatever colors you choose.
A. Red is used for trigger signals, Blue for DC coupled signals, Black for AC coupled signals, and purple is used for sync.
http://www.serge-fans.com/new.html
In addition yellow and green also appear through Serge history for special uses and purple also appears on the Animal panel for the pink noise out.
If it makes any difference though, this is your DIY and you should feel free to use whatever colors you choose.
On the cable side, I believe the common source is testpath.
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Bana ... g-1835.htm
Although making your own is also an option.
http://www.testpath.com/Categories/Bana ... g-1835.htm
Although making your own is also an option.
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Hi All
It's great to see others have finished , i just finished my SWAMP panel yesterday.
I'm still waiting on a Futurlec order so i can connect a 2nd power out so i can piggyback my Panel#3 with the SWAMP.
I thought i would post some of my build pics.
Hopefully the design for the Gated Comparator especially might be helpful to some.
What i have learnt from this build is the importance of having a method...quite chuffed with my design for the Gated Comp wiring !!

.jpg[/img]





It's great to see others have finished , i just finished my SWAMP panel yesterday.
I'm still waiting on a Futurlec order so i can connect a 2nd power out so i can piggyback my Panel#3 with the SWAMP.
I thought i would post some of my build pics.
Hopefully the design for the Gated Comparator especially might be helpful to some.
What i have learnt from this build is the importance of having a method...quite chuffed with my design for the Gated Comp wiring !!







Last edited by cleaninglady on Sat Jul 09, 2011 4:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
- cleaninglady
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Nice pictures, however, to me Im afraid it looks like you did not need to do the extensive 100k wiring on the gate comp pots, since it looks like you have the latest digital noise that has a mixer onboard and 8x 100k inputs. I could be wrong..
About the cable ties. You have each pcb connected via cable tie and just the ends connected to the "rail" ?
About the cable ties. You have each pcb connected via cable tie and just the ends connected to the "rail" ?
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if you are right about the 100k resistors , thats just depressing...i would like to know either way. I just followed Ken's Wiring Diagram :
http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs13v2_gated_comparator.html
Cable Ties :
Just trying something new out to save time and screws.
The cable tie on the board closet to the end uses the ends of the tightened cable tie shoved back through the PCB mounting holes to bring it back 'level' in line with the other two boards.
The ratchet part of each cable ties sits under the boards and physically prevents contact with metal and therefore shorting isn't a problem.
It's a little hard to depict with photos but it works !
http://www.cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs13v2_gated_comparator.html
Cable Ties :
Just trying something new out to save time and screws.
The cable tie on the board closet to the end uses the ends of the tightened cable tie shoved back through the PCB mounting holes to bring it back 'level' in line with the other two boards.
The ratchet part of each cable ties sits under the boards and physically prevents contact with metal and therefore shorting isn't a problem.
It's a little hard to depict with photos but it works !

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A learned friend pointed out that the resistors off the wipers of the pots method i used is no problem...
This way it just ends up being a single wire (the joined resistors) into the mixer board instead of eight wires from each wiper into the mixer board.
iopop , thanks for the heads up ; it's nice to have someone looking at what you've done and giving some advice. I had been a bit lost in relation to the Mixer section as it is one area that really isn't addressed in the general wiring diagrams.
cheers
cL
This way it just ends up being a single wire (the joined resistors) into the mixer board instead of eight wires from each wiper into the mixer board.
iopop , thanks for the heads up ; it's nice to have someone looking at what you've done and giving some advice. I had been a bit lost in relation to the Mixer section as it is one area that really isn't addressed in the general wiring diagrams.
cheers

cL
Yes, it should not be any problem. Sorry for not mentioning this earlier!
I was also way lost on the mixer before I realized that the newer noise boards had 8 inputs.
Quite a lot of info have been gathered into this thread. Maybe someone should start copying parts of it to the wiki? Given we have a new batch of panels coming soon the same questions would probably arise again. I would volunteer to help out in a week or so when my life has settled, moved to a new place and everything is still in boxes, but I do have vacation for three more weeks.
I was also way lost on the mixer before I realized that the newer noise boards had 8 inputs.
Quite a lot of info have been gathered into this thread. Maybe someone should start copying parts of it to the wiki? Given we have a new batch of panels coming soon the same questions would probably arise again. I would volunteer to help out in a week or so when my life has settled, moved to a new place and everything is still in boxes, but I do have vacation for three more weeks.
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Hi,
Having not been able to find a coherent ersource for any colour scheme I have settled on a variation of the `basic Serge' scheme but have opted to differentiate between IN and OUT with the following result:-
Black = AC IN
White = AC Out
Blue = DC In
Green = DC Out
Red = Logic/Sync IN
Yellow = Logic/Sync Out.
See 4mm Colour Scheme
I now have Hardware Kits on my website for each of the modules in all 3 panels so those of you looking for a source of bits might want to pop over.
If you really want the same colours as shown in the pictures attached in this thread then let me know and I will supply accordingly at no extra charge.
The hardware kits include banana sockets, pots, Davies knobs (all black unless you choose the SWAMP colour option), switches and 5mm LEds with LENS mounts as required. Component Kits are also available but these are fully configured kits based on the original CGS module (so if anyone can advise of any major changes it would be appreciated).
Thanks for the bandwidth but thought this was the best place to let you know.
I am definitely in favour of a single condensed source for the COMPLETE build information
Having not been able to find a coherent ersource for any colour scheme I have settled on a variation of the `basic Serge' scheme but have opted to differentiate between IN and OUT with the following result:-
Black = AC IN
White = AC Out
Blue = DC In
Green = DC Out
Red = Logic/Sync IN
Yellow = Logic/Sync Out.
See 4mm Colour Scheme
I now have Hardware Kits on my website for each of the modules in all 3 panels so those of you looking for a source of bits might want to pop over.
If you really want the same colours as shown in the pictures attached in this thread then let me know and I will supply accordingly at no extra charge.
The hardware kits include banana sockets, pots, Davies knobs (all black unless you choose the SWAMP colour option), switches and 5mm LEds with LENS mounts as required. Component Kits are also available but these are fully configured kits based on the original CGS module (so if anyone can advise of any major changes it would be appreciated).
Thanks for the bandwidth but thought this was the best place to let you know.
I am definitely in favour of a single condensed source for the COMPLETE build information
I'm gonna answer my own question. One panel draws about 200mA!
Got another question. I've scanned the internet for hours now looking for a power supply. Four panels would need about +/-15Vdc@800mA. Does this power supply NEED to be linear regulated? Then I would need a linear regulated power supply with +/-15Vdc@800mA! Found this, does it work? Is it linear?
http://www.electrokit.se/download/k83.pdf

Got another question. I've scanned the internet for hours now looking for a power supply. Four panels would need about +/-15Vdc@800mA. Does this power supply NEED to be linear regulated? Then I would need a linear regulated power supply with +/-15Vdc@800mA! Found this, does it work? Is it linear?
http://www.electrokit.se/download/k83.pdf


- cleaninglady
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This is what i used :
All-In-One Power Module Kit - 115V/230VAC 30VA +/-15VDC
http://www.elby-designs.com/shopping/index1.html
Enough juice to power quite a few Best of CGS panels...
Laurie is very helpful , in fact his Muff's name is widgetoz and there is a message from him directly above...maybe send him a PM ?
cL
All-In-One Power Module Kit - 115V/230VAC 30VA +/-15VDC
http://www.elby-designs.com/shopping/index1.html
Enough juice to power quite a few Best of CGS panels...
Laurie is very helpful , in fact his Muff's name is widgetoz and there is a message from him directly above...maybe send him a PM ?
cL

butte: The Electrokit one is linear. You'll need a torid such as this one to power it. Btw. Ken sells psu pcbs as well, http://cgs.synth.net/modules/cgs66_psu.html the one from electrokit is comparable in design to the discontinued cgs14.
Not to put you off but Im not really sure those small heatsinks can handle 1amp? It might be fairly easy to add larger heatsinks if it runs too hot.
Or you could use this switched one, https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/in ... =69-726-99 if it works fine for you, do no obsess about what other people say about switched vs linear psus.
Not to put you off but Im not really sure those small heatsinks can handle 1amp? It might be fairly easy to add larger heatsinks if it runs too hot.
Or you could use this switched one, https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/in ... =69-726-99 if it works fine for you, do no obsess about what other people say about switched vs linear psus.
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Did everyone who wired the smaller VCO per Zthees panel 1 instructions have success? Both of my VCOs are shorting out somewhere. When I plug the PSU in they drop the +/- voltage to less than a volt output. I checked the PSU with one of the VCS's and digital noise and it was fine/maintained +/-15. It does the exact same thing on both VCOs. The reason I ask about the wiring is that I noticed there were some differences from the examples show on Ken Stone's page. It's possible I screwed up the veroboard amps since those are tied to the power on these but I checked them over and over...