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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

4ms ROW POWER
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next [all]
Author 4ms ROW POWER
2disbetter
L.C.O. wrote:

Man, this stuff confuses me all the time.
I could swear I read here that Meanwell bricks are the noisy ones!
Go figure!...


You're not confused! I read the same.

I should expound a little more, I didn't just replace the power brick, I also bought some LIBBs and EHA kits from Genus Modu to use with my row powers. I also upgraded all my power cables to the Modular Addict individual wire power cables.

All of that is for sure helping, BUT what I do know is, I got the LIBBs and EHAs, installed them. Still noise. Got a ground loop lift, even worse noise.

Replaced the power cables for each module, still noise. As soon as I swapped out the power brick, super quite. I can't hear anything when nothing is going on.

That goes to show how bad my power brick was, but I think everything else is certainly helping.

I'm just happy it is finally gone!
m1sterlurk
2disbetter wrote:
m1sterlurk wrote:
wired it to the DC power cable I amputated from the 4ms 90W brick, ensured that the center was still positive with a multimeter, and hooked it up.


Could you elaborate on this a bit more? Is there a better more professional (safer) solution to using that PSU with the row power?

2d


You can buy a connector, wire and heat-shrink tubing and properly solder everything together and it would be much more professional. I was just in a hurry to get everything going.
leftbracket
4mspedals wrote:
Blade tabs for power entry, to be used in custom installations (e.g. if the 4HP panel is not used)


Has anyone tried to install a Row Power inside a case without the panel? I'd be curious to see if this could work in my scenario (Dark Modular 6U with the power unceremoniously ripped out by the previous owner or reseller) to free up that extra 4 HP.
pugix
L.C.O. wrote:
2disbetter wrote:
I might as well go ahead and share how I fixed my long running noise problems.

Turns out the 4ms 90w brick was junk, and really noisey. (I mean mine, not all of them.)

Bought a $20 dollar meanwell brick and poof noise gone.

I'm so happy. Rockin' Banana!

2d


Man, this stuff confuses me all the time.
I could swear I read here that Meanwell bricks are the noisy ones!
Go figure!...


It's not the Meanwell bricks. It's the Meanwell power supplies. People seem to confuse these. I use mostly Meanwell 15 volt wall bricks and haven't had a problem. None of these pass Earth ground to the zero volt barrel connector. These are the 'medical grade', which isolate Earth ground.
Avjr
Hey, can anyone confirm if a 4ms bus stick will fit inside a Moog case?

I want to build a small "end of chain" case (mixing/effects/headphones) and the Moog has the perfect size and angle for my needs but would love to stay away from flying bus cables.
templar
bus sticks are 42HP long
Avjr
templar wrote:
bus sticks are 42HP long


Thanks for the reply but that's not what i meant, i should've made myself clearer, sorry.

Because the insides of the case are not completely flat i don't know if you can properly attach the bus stick with the adhesive pads, so, if there is somewhere on the back of the case enough flat space for the bus stick to fit and atach the adhesive pads completely.

Hope that makes more sense, now.
Avjr
I finally got one of these, installed the module and the moment i connected the brick to the wall it started producing this low and thin whinning sound. When i turned the power module on the sound changed and after a while it started sounding like it was being hit by a cycling envelope... confused

The sound stops only when i disconnect the brick from the wall.

Is this normal? seriously, i just don't get it
JohnLRice
Avjr wrote:
I finally got one of these, installed the module and the moment i connected the brick to the wall it started producing this low and thin whinning sound. When i turned the power module on the sound changed and after a while it started sounding like it was being hit by a cycling envelope... confused

The sound stops only when i disconnect the brick from the wall.

Is this normal? seriously, i just don't get it
eek! No, not normal at all! sad banana
Avjr
Thanks for the reply.

Well, off i go trying to source another locally...
amop
Weird - I have six Row Power 40 driving my racks and not an issue with any of them. Bu I used the recommended brick that the retailer - Control Voltage - sold.
Avjr
amop wrote:
Weird - I have six Row Power 40 driving my racks and not an issue with any of them. Bu I used the recommended brick that the retailer - Control Voltage - sold.


I bought the 4ms one. I actually happened upon this thread where it seems i am not the only one that got a brick with such behaviour: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=169004&start=all&pos tdays=0&postorder=asc

After reading that i installed the modules and when i turned the Row Power on the noise disappeared.
GGW
I'm planning to mount a Row Power inside a small case I'm building. With the mounting I'm planning, I won't be seeing the LED's and they will be in the way. My question is whether I can just clip the LED's off of the board? I'm assuming they are not inline the circuit.
versipellis
Hey 4MS - what's the internal circuit diagram like for the rowpower40? I'm trying to see how much wattage I can expect out of the daisy chain port to power other devices that aren't a rowpower40 Mr. Green
JohnLRice
versipellis wrote:
Hey 4MS - what's the internal circuit diagram like for the rowpower40? I'm trying to see how much wattage I can expect out of the daisy chain port to power other devices that aren't a rowpower40 Mr. Green
I'm not from 4ms but I'm pretty sure there is no circuitry between the two ports, other then a couple traces on the PCB to connect the ports in parallel.
Pailo
versipellis wrote:
Hey 4MS - what's the internal circuit diagram like for the rowpower40? I'm trying to see how much wattage I can expect out of the daisy chain port to power other devices that aren't a rowpower40 Mr. Green

Like John said its just continuing the brick with a trace.

GGW wrote:
I'm planning to mount a Row Power inside a small case I'm building. With the mounting I'm planning, I won't be seeing the LED's and they will be in the way. My question is whether I can just clip the LED's off of the board? I'm assuming they are not inline the circuit.


You can just clip them, it will not hurt anything.
pugix
JohnLRice wrote:
versipellis wrote:
Hey 4MS - what's the internal circuit diagram like for the rowpower40? I'm trying to see how much wattage I can expect out of the daisy chain port to power other devices that aren't a rowpower40 Mr. Green
I'm not from 4ms but I'm pretty sure there is no circuitry between the two ports, other then a couple traces on the PCB to connect the ports in parallel.


I bought a daisy-chain power jumper and it didn't work reliably at all. So I just soldered jumpers behind the panels of two Row Power 40s.

Remember, you will draw twice as much power from the brick. Make sure it's rated enough.
docsample
Not clear what is included in the box. Clearly I need a power brick. Is a flying bus cable included or is that separate?
JohnLRice
docsample wrote:
Not clear what is included in the box. Clearly I need a power brick. Is a flying bus cable included or is that separate?
Pretty much everything is separate so when ordering be sure to get a power brick and flying bus. If you order direct from 4ms they tend to throw in an extra item or two. Stated on their site:
Quote:
Included with the Row Power 30 (or 40):
16-to-16 pin power cable
2 M3 Knurlie screws
Hazza26
Could someone please tell me if there's any functional difference between plugging a bus board + fly cable into separate headers vs plugging the fly cable into the 1st header and connecting the bus board into the 1st header on the fly cable? (Got cable length issues!).

Thanks
JohnLRice
Hazza26 wrote:
Could someone please tell me if there's any functional difference between plugging a bus board + fly cable into separate headers vs plugging the fly cable into the 1st header and connecting the bus board into the 1st header on the fly cable? (Got cable length issues!).

Thanks
I think I understand what you are saying and while it should still 'work' it's less than idea since the total current for all modules will be trying to pass through the tiny 28 gauge wires of the flying buss cable.

What would be better is to get something like Genus Modu EURO HEADER ADAPTER so that you can mount your buss board further away from the power supply.
http://www.genusmodu.com/products/eha.html

Hazza26
I see what you mean, but I'm within the max load of the Row 40, and I hope (?) that the unit is designed to be able to take the full load through one header? I guess that's the question.

I've ordered a longer bus board connector, just don't want to have to put my wiggling on hold until it arrives!
JohnLRice
Hazza26 wrote:
I see what you mean, but I'm within the max load of the Row 40, and I hope (?) that the unit is designed to be able to take the full load through one header? I guess that's the question.

I've ordered a longer bus board connector, just don't want to have to put my wiggling on hold until it arrives!
Oh, I see. 4ms could answer this better than I but I'd assume that the two headers are simply connected in parallel and there shouldn't be any difference between running everything though both or just one?
Hazza26
Exactly.. I would also assume they're in parallel so hope it's a thumbs up.

Thanks for your help!
versipellis
Hazza26 wrote:
Exactly.. I would also assume they're in parallel so hope it's a thumbs up.

Thanks for your help!


Not sure if this helps, but stacking all my power load on one header didn't work. Splitting across both did, however. I couldn't be bothered math'ing the loads.
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