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4ms ROW POWER
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next [all]
Author 4ms ROW POWER
Effie
Funky40 wrote:
Effie wrote:
I have the Row Power 40 and love it, but, as a pretty fresh eurorack newbie, I have a question about 5V: if I have a module that requires 5v, do I need a 5v adapter to use it with the row power, or am I good to go in just plugging it straight in?

Row Power 40 and also 30 deliver 5V from its own regulator.
so you don´t need any other 5V regulator.


my question above was btw. on the topic if adding a additional 5V adapter onto the busboard would destroy something ?
so no, to be on the safe side don´t add another 5V regulator ! wink

Row power 40 has btw. 1,5A (IIRC) on the 5V rail, which is plenty.


I figured as much due to th 5v light on the front of the panel, but I figured it's best to be safe when an expensive module is on the line. Thanks! smile
Funky40
Row Power 40, question:

how much can i load the +12V Bus ?
rating is 1,5A.
i´m on 1.4 A now, according to modulargrid. But two modules are not listed.
so its more like 1.46A.
I have the 90W Brick, so that one is not on hot load, only the regulator


does anybody know ? ( i hate to bother Manufacturers and steal their time )
jeannot
Funky40 wrote:
Row Power 40, question:

how much can i load the +12V Bus ?
rating is 1,5A.
i´m on 1.4 A now, according to modulargrid. But two modules are not listed.
so its more like 1.46A.
I have the 90W Brick, so that one is not on hot load, only the regulator


does anybody know ? ( i hate to bother Manufacturers and steal their time )


1.4A is definitely running it too close on a RP40. Power draw ratings are not 100% accurate on MG, so keep that in mind.

Also no need for 5V regulators, as the Row Powers supply the 5V line already.
Kujo
Any ideas as to why my Dual Borg is behaving like this when it is installed on the 4ms Row Power ?

https://youtu.be/gSJclXN_mRE
tenshun
Any one have any problems with the Row power 30?

mine was working well for a couple of months and then all of a sudden
it wont power on anymore.

i only have a few modules connected to it and i unplugged all of them to see if
it would help but still no power.

The power brick im using seems to work as it turn on my laptop.
tenshun
i found the problem that was wrong with the row power not turning on!

it was the actual power adaptor!

i tested it out on other computers and stuff and they would not turn on.
so i went and bought a new power adaptor and it works!

im glad it wasnt the row power!
Flohr
M6live wrote:
I have a question about the barrel power cable for chaining Row Power 40(s). It's a 2.1mm barrel male to male. The 4ms one is not as long as I'd like.
Could I get away with using this one? Am I neglecting some important aspect of the cable or would this one suffice? hmmm.....


Can anyone confirm whether a longer daisychain connector will work? I want to get a RP for my new skiff and would prefer to have the skiff run off the same brick as my 6u, but not necessarily have to be less than 4 inches away.

Also can you daisychain a Row 40 and a Row 30 together?
tenshun
Flohr wrote:
M6live wrote:
I have a question about the barrel power cable for chaining Row Power 40(s). It's a 2.1mm barrel male to male. The 4ms one is not as long as I'd like.
Could I get away with using this one? Am I neglecting some important aspect of the cable or would this one suffice? hmmm.....


Can anyone confirm whether a longer daisychain connector will work? I want to get a RP for my new skiff and would prefer to have the skiff run off the same brick as my 6u, but not necessarily have to be less than 4 inches away.

Also can you daisychain a Row 40 and a Row 30 together?


I have no problem powering a row 30 with my row 40.
Both are in different cases and have no problem.

As far a daisy chain cable. I made a diy one. I just bought two 2.1mm barrel plugs from frys and soldered them to a 6 foot cable.
peanut
What about using other barrel cables than the ones from 4ms? Can anyone confirm that your regular male to male barrel from another manufacturer is okay to use?
peanut
Thanks, tenshun. Think that answers my question.
2disbetter
So I'm planning on running a row power 40, 30, and another 30 all daisy chained off the 90 watt power brick from 4ms.

According to modulargrid which I know is not precise I have the following when the plan is complete:
Power Consumption: 1994 mA +12V | 798 mA -12V | 95 mA 5V

Best to run the last row power 30 on it's own brick?

Also as was previously asked, is using a self made barrel cable ok? 4ms makes the 3" and 10" one, but I need one that is about 14".

2d
itsritual
2disbetter wrote:

Also as was previously asked, is using a self made barrel cable ok? 4ms makes the 3" and 10" one, but I need one that is about 14".

2d
Yup. Mines daisy chained w/ a 2 ft cable no problem.
2disbetter
Hmmm, the marketing text for the row power 30 and 40 all say that you can daisy chain 3-5 row powers with one power brick. But simple math tells me that just 3-4 of any kind would exceed the wattage of the power brick. Why is this not a problem?

Edit: I got off my lazy butt and googled a volts to watts calculater, based on what I could come up with from the power amounts I listed above, I'm using around 38 watts with the system totally full.

Should be good to go right?

2d
sasbom
I'm building a 104 HP 9U case,
and I wonder if 1 4ms 40W module will cut it. I think not.

How much power do I need to be future proof? How does the daisy chaining work?

I still can't find that much info on powering eurorack, especially
large cases...
sasbom
sorry bump pls delete.
2disbetter
sasbom wrote:
I'm building a 104 HP 9U case,
and I wonder if 1 4ms 40W module will cut it. I think not.

How much power do I need to be future proof? How does the daisy chaining work?

I still can't find that much info on powering eurorack, especially
large cases...


You are going to use 3 rows of eurorack on one row power 40? I'd say absolutely not. Should you have it loaded up in modulargrid, you can use the rough power estimate of the whole modular at the bottom to see what your expected +12v, -12v, 5v draws are. My guess is you will easily exceed the the maximum for each of those.

Regarding the 90 watt power brick they sell, that can easily power 3-5 row powers, so you'd be good on that front. You will just need more row power modules.

Not sure on the daisy chaining but I would prefer to only plug flying power cables into the module itself. It has 2 connections for that. Meaning with flying cables you would have 14 module power connections. Not going to be nearly enough for a whole 9u case. On average (if averages really exists in modular) you are going to use 5-9 power connections per row. I think it is safe to say you will need at a minimum a row power 40 and 30. It might be possible to use one, but you'd have no real future proof, and would have to daisy chain on the flying cables themselves, which I would think might not be good for noise. (I don't really know, just guessing)

2d
sasbom
Thanks!

I'm going with the 90W power brick but I've decided to get a beefier power module, I only want 1 power button hahaha
JSVice
Sorry for bringing back an old thread, but a topic was mentioned on here that came up in a search I was conducting. It referred to the ability to daisy chain a Row Power to a Zeus. I saw the question asking if this was possible, but I didn't see an answer. Does any one know if you can do this?
JohnLRice
JSVice wrote:
Sorry for bringing back an old thread, but a topic was mentioned on here that came up in a search I was conducting. It referred to the ability to daisy chain a Row Power to a Zeus. I saw the question asking if this was possible, but I didn't see an answer. Does any one know if you can do this?
Welcome to Muff's! w00t

It should work fine since the two jacks on the row power are connected in parallel so the power brick output is passed through to the second jack. Just make sure you don't exceed the power brick's capacity.

The only thing to over come is that the Row Power and uZeus use different sized jacks, (2.1mm and 2.5mm respectively) so the linking cables 4ms sells wont work without modifying it by replacing one of the plugs with a 2.5mm one. You may be able to find the correct cable already made (try Amazon or eBay etc) but pay attention to the wire gauge. Many of the adapter cables you'll see are for guitar pedals and may not be suitable for handling the current draw of the uZeus, depending on how many modules are connected.

There are also 2.1mm to 2.5mm adapter plugs you could use together with a 4ms cable but I would avoid that it since adapters tend to not give a solid connection and it will stick up pretty tall and be in the way etc.
JSVice
Wow. Thanks so much. That's a complete and very helpful answer.
m1sterlurk
I am writing because I just underwent quite the saga trying to isolate a whine coming from some of my modules. I'm posting this here to hopefully help the next person that has this issue.

I'm using a Row Power 40 to power this system: https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/622278

I'll start by saying that the grounding in my house is non-existent. My house was built in the 60's, and last had its electrical system inspected in 1985. The only 3 prong outlet in the house is in my studio, and it is not actually grounded.

When I built my system, I discovered I had a general whine noise that would start at around 5000Hz and would drift up to about 6500Hz over time. This seemed to come from many of my Eurorack modules, but was particularly bad in my Doepfer Xtreme Filter and Intellijel Springray II. It wouldn't come from the output module if nothing was connected, so I knew that the problem wasn't between the modular and my audio interface.

I tried unplugging modules individually to see if I could isolate it to a single module, and was unsuccessful. I tried buying a different power supply (a Mean Well GSM60B15-P1J), which reduced the whine slightly but not significantly. I purchased a power conditioner (a Furman PL-8C), and it did absolutely nothing to the whine (it did drop the noise floor in my studio considerably though...so I strongly recommend it anyway).

The answer that finally worked for me was I borrowed a linear bench power supply from a friend, specifically a TekPower TP3005T ( http://tekpower.us/tp3005t.html ). I set it to 16 volts, wired it to the DC power cable I amputated from the 4ms 90W brick, ensured that the center was still positive with a multimeter, and hooked it up. The whine was completely gone.

So it was a bit of an extreme solution and you do have to be extra cautious when using a bench power supply (that is be sure the voltage is correctly set before plugging in your system and turning it on), but it worked absolutely perfectly.
2disbetter
m1sterlurk wrote:
wired it to the DC power cable I amputated from the 4ms 90W brick, ensured that the center was still positive with a multimeter, and hooked it up.


Could you elaborate on this a bit more? Is there a better more professional (safer) solution to using that PSU with the row power?

2d
JohnLRice
m1sterlurk wrote:
wired it to the DC power cable I amputated from the 4ms 90W brick
I've done similar things as this before because I wanted to get on with the project and not wait to research and order things etc. hihi But just an FYI, I know that the 3 foot long Locking DC Extension Cable that Synthrotek sells for $6 works well with the 4ms Row Power supplies and will not only fit but screw down for a tight secure connection. Just cut off the unneeded end and strip the wires to connect to the alternative DC source.
http://store.synthrotek.com/Locking_DC_Extension_Cable
2disbetter
I might as well go ahead and share how I fixed my long running noise problems.

Turns out the 4ms 90w brick was junk, and really noisey. (I mean mine, not all of them.)

Bought a $20 dollar meanwell brick and poof noise gone.

I'm so happy. Rockin' Banana!

2d
L.C.O.
2disbetter wrote:
I might as well go ahead and share how I fixed my long running noise problems.

Turns out the 4ms 90w brick was junk, and really noisey. (I mean mine, not all of them.)

Bought a $20 dollar meanwell brick and poof noise gone.

I'm so happy. Rockin' Banana!

2d


Man, this stuff confuses me all the time.
I could swear I read here that Meanwell bricks are the noisy ones!
Go figure!...
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