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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

toppobrillo triplewavefolder DIY- interest in 2nd run?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... , 11, 12, 13  Next [all]

would you be interested in ____?
PCB only
37%
 37%  [ 42 ]
PCB and all PCB-mounted parts
62%
 62%  [ 70 ]
Total Votes : 112

Author toppobrillo triplewavefolder DIY- interest in 2nd run?
Rod Serling Fan Club
Thanks for posting moel. Let me ask you about the attenuverter section as I think thats where my confusion is.

- is "IN" ALL CV 1 (pad 18)?
- is "OFFSET CV" ALL CV 2, connected to the "OFFSET" pot which is "AMOUNT +/-" in the wiring diagram?
- is "OUT" ALL CV'S (pad 16)?

Wired this way is the attenuverter completely independent of what wavefolder sections (i.e can be used for other purposes)?

...................................................................... ..

See if this ugly sketch looks right. Making a panel is quite a bit of work for me so once it is done I am committed. The fewer mistakes the better.
moellhoven
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
Thanks for posting moel. Let me ask you about the attenuverter section as I think thats where my confusion is.

- is "IN" ALL CV 1 (pad 18)?
- is "OFFSET CV" ALL CV 2, connected to the "OFFSET" pot which is "AMOUNT +/-" in the wiring diagram?
- is "OUT" ALL CV'S (pad 16)?

I made this layout some weeks ago before the wiring document was available. My sources were the euro panel and the block diagram. Actually i had a hard time to come up with a panel that i like. I always try these kind of changes out before actually ordering the panel wink But i have still two more modules before the TWF inline.
Just had a quick look at the document and i think you got it right. Maybe someone else can comment on this too?

Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

Wired this way is the attenuverter completely independent of what wavefolder sections (i.e can be used for other purposes)?

Yes, this is the intention. I'd like to have all sections separate from each other so that the Attenuverter can also be used for something else.
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

...................................................................... ..

See if this ugly sketch looks right. Making a panel is quite a bit of work for me so once it is done I am committed. The fewer mistakes the better.

I'll try to figure this out in the morning smile
falafelbiels
Since I think it's appropriate and actually can't get enough of it I'll post a pic of mine here as well.



w00t
moellhoven
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

See if this ugly sketch looks right. Making a panel is quite a bit of work for me so once it is done I am committed. The fewer mistakes the better.

I am sitting on a train trying to figure your mockup out. I am not sure why you have a switch for the symmetry. The attenuverter drawing is mysterious to me smile
It's hard to write a post on a phone with stupid german text correction. wink
Rod Serling Fan Club
The symmetry switch is for the CV input (I think on the wiring diagram it is “in 1B”, it is blocked from this computer for some reason so I can’t check at the moment). On the wiring diagram it shows symmetry normaled to B+ providing a voltage offset when no CV input is present. If I am looking at the drawing correctly, when you plug in a minijack it breaks that connection and takes the CV from that input. So the switch is serving that purpose to switch from the internal “B+” offset voltage to the CV input. If I am wrong, let me know.

The attenuverter – Ignore the bottom block with the in/knob/out, that isn’t part of the circuit it is just use of the extra space. The input has a jack in and then the “manual” pot above it. The offset CV has a jack input and the “offset” pot above it and then there is an output jack at the top. It may look confusing because of my attempt to follow serge convention somewhat.

If I seem to be in error with any of this please let me know. Thanks for taking the time to look!
boothnavy
Zaxxon in Holland.
negativspace
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
So the switch is serving that purpose to switch from the internal “B+” offset voltage to the CV input. If I am wrong, let me know.


You're on track here. thumbs up

Must be TWF season - I finished mine last night, too. Now I wonder why I waited so long... this module is great! I went with an 18hp panel that includes attenuators for the 3 folder CV inputs.

LektroiD
I'd like to order one of these. Showed interest in the Electro-Music thread when this was announced but nothing ever materialised. Desperate to get my hands on one hyper
EATyourGUITAR
I PM'ed toppobrillo yesterday about buying a PCB. maybe you should PM him. in fact everyone should PM him so we can get on the list for the another batch.

I'm in MOTM so I would be ok with a big PCB that has no SMD parts. but if he wants to just press more of the same PCB, I would still buy it.
Junk Rhythm
EATyourGUITAR wrote:
I'm in MOTM so I would be ok with a big PCB that has no SMD parts. but if he wants to just press more of the same PCB, I would still buy it.


You are in luck. The PCB is entirely through hole other than a few SMD caps that you don't really need to install.
EATyourGUITAR
yeah I read about the SMD cap under an IC and I was hmmm.....

but that doesn't scare me off when I really want something
moellhoven
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
The symmetry switch is for the CV input (I think on the wiring diagram it is “in 1B”, it is blocked from this computer for some reason so I can’t check at the moment). On the wiring diagram it shows symmetry normaled to B+ providing a voltage offset when no CV input is present. If I am looking at the drawing correctly, when you plug in a minijack it breaks that connection and takes the CV from that input. So the switch is serving that purpose to switch from the internal “B+” offset voltage to the CV input. If I am wrong, let me know.
You are right! For my panel i decided to dismiss the IN1B input so that the TWF fits on a single Modcan A panel with a clean layout. Just needed some more thinking to remember wink
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:
The attenuverter – Ignore the bottom block with the in/knob/out, that isn’t part of the circuit it is just use of the extra space. The input has a jack in and then the “manual” pot above it. The offset CV has a jack input and the “offset” pot above it and then there is an output jack at the top. It may look confusing because of my attempt to follow serge convention somewhat.

This looks fine too!
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:

If I seem to be in error with any of this please let me know. Thanks for taking the time to look!

Sorry for not getting back to you earlier. Surprisingly there was no internet connection on my short vacation smile
Rod Serling Fan Club
Thanks. I appreciate that you took the time to look at it for me.
lordofthebored
Got a noobish question regarding the B+ connections: is there a correct way to do this? At the moment I have one wire connecting every potentiometer in series from BIAS 3 > BIAS 2 > BIAS 1 > MANUAL CV > R22/IN 1B > PCB. So far everything works but I want to make any changes before it goes in the rack.
negativspace
You have to do it that way, there aren't enough B+ connections to hook up each pot individually.
lordofthebored
negativspace wrote:
You have to do it that way, there aren't enough B+ connections to hook up each pot individually.


Right on, I figured R22 was last in line before the PCB. Wasn't too sure if the rest of the order mattered.

Thanks! thumbs up
LektroiD
I'm still interested in a PCB, as well as asking for one in the Electro Music thread, I PM'd for one here (as suggested above), but still heard nothing so far.

Anyone in the UK got a spare they could sell me?
LektroiD
Trying to delete this double post, but the [X] is on top of the 'ignore' button, it just tells me I can't ignore myself. hihi
KNYST
So...
As I'm having some trouble finding the 1N5234 at my regular sources, could you recommend anything else?
Specs: 500mW 6.2V 20mA Through Hole Zener Diode

Cheers
LektroiD
I know I've asked a few time so far, but not had any response yet...

Where can we buy these?
iopop
KNYST: http://www.electrokit.com/bzx55c6v2-do35-6-2v.43331

Usually any 6.2v and 500mW zener should do. At least those two are the important variables.

I believe the 1nXX is the american way and bzx is the euro variant?
KNYST
I see, sounds reasonable. Tack iopop thumbs up

-edit-
@LektroiD: http://www.rapidonline.com/SearchResults.aspx?kw=6.2V%20zener%20500mW
LektroiD
KNYST wrote:
I see, sounds reasonable. Tack iopop thumbs up

-edit-
@LektroiD: http://www.rapidonline.com/SearchResults.aspx?kw=6.2V%20zener%20500mW


I'm after a PCB, not a diode d'oh!

I really don't know how many times I need to ask this, or how many more months it will take to get somewhere, but I really would like one of these PCBs sad banana
KNYST
Oops oops sorry. Wish I could help you - best of luck!
toppobrillo
lektroid-PMed you. found some extra TWF boards hiding in my closet, 8 pcs, am posting these in the FS section..
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