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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Plumbutter 2- Getting Started...
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Ciat-Lonbarde Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Plumbutter 2- Getting Started...
iVardensphere
Hey folks

I bought a PB2 a couple weeks ago and I'm finally settling into some lap time with it. At first look it is a little daunting and, to be perfectly honest, I don't find the manual to be overly helpful with some things. Here are some initial getting started questions.

1- Powersupply. It didn't come with one but I was informed by Chorus 7 that using a 12v DC supply is the way to go. I'd like to just verify this.

2- 1/8" Jacks. There are a 4 x 1/8" jacks around the machine (one on the back and 3 in front) but I'm not really certain what they do. The one next to the power supply seems to be an audio out (as I get some tone when bringing up sections in the mixer) but I'm also getting some crazy buzz from it. I'm thinking its potentially a grounding issue but I'm not sure. I'm not getting any My questions here
a) What are the jacks?
b) Do I need to ground the machine?

3- Any tips for getting a guy going after all of this would be grand.

Thanks guys!
Scott
iVardensphere
A quick addition to say the output next to the power supply (the buzzing one) is the only jack where I'm actually getting audio from.
aethersprite
Yeah, 12v dc with a 2.1 positive tip. The 3 in the front are the auxiliary inputs, the back is the stereo output. You should only have to ground it when patching it with other gear. Have fun exploring! I've only had a couple hours on the house's new one so I don't have much for tips.
Muff Wiggler
welcome to the wonderful world of Plumbutter!

don't worry, just play with it, and it will all start making sense....

...and then, oddly, that sometimes not 'overly helpful' manual will start making more sense...

... and the PB will start making more sense... and the C-L webpage starts making outrageous sense all of a sudden

it's a journey, stop and explore and take your time, experiment a lot

it needs a 12vDC power supply capable of supplying about 300ma-ish of current. Hooked up with a tip-positive standard barrel connector

I got hum from mine at first until I started using a really good power supply. Make sure you get one that has a transformer and not a switching type (transformer will be heavier and list only one input voltage, 120v.... switching type will be light and list a range of input vontages, 90v-220v for example)

These'll typically be two-prong power supplies so there's no worry about grounding at the PSU plug or powerbar level

but if you are cross-patching it with other gear, you'll want to share a ground between the two

now onto the jacks...

the one at the back by the power inlet is the output. It's a stereo output as plumbutter is a stereo thing. it's a 1/8" TRS stereo minijack. You can get cables with one 1/8" TRS minijack one one end that split into two 1/4" TS mono jacks on the other end. Handy. Or make adapter cables as needed etc.

The ones on the front are the inputs. I have a PB1, not a 1, and I have pairs of mono 1/4" TS jacks. Guessing looking at PB2 these jacks are stereo 1/8" TRS inputs. One is for the deerhorn, one is for the Gongues, and one is for the avDogs. The right side of the stereo input goes to the right-side Gongue, left side to the left-side Gongue, same arrangement for the avDogs. Deerhorn is deerhorn and is two tones.

When inputting audio into Deerhorn, avDog, start with the "Trad/Gonz" switch in the middle, which disables the modules own internal voices and feeds the input through them. Next select either Trad or Gonz and see how it integrates with your audio.

Gongue seems to need the trad or gonz setting, disabling his voice doesn't work in this case because of what Gongue is. Gongue needs to be active.

I've said WAY too much here.

HAVE FUN!
iVardensphere
Thanks so much, mate. Great advice!

Muff Wiggler wrote:
welcome to the wonderful world of Plumbutter!

don't worry, just play with it, and it will all start making sense....

...and then, oddly, that sometimes not 'overly helpful' manual will start making more sense...

... and the PB will start making more sense... and the C-L webpage starts making outrageous sense all of a sudden

it's a journey, stop and explore and take your time, experiment a lot

it needs a 12vDC power supply capable of supplying about 300ma-ish of current. Hooked up with a tip-positive standard barrel connector

I got hum from mine at first until I started using a really good power supply. Make sure you get one that has a transformer and not a switching type (transformer will be heavier and list only one input voltage, 120v.... switching type will be light and list a range of input vontages, 90v-220v for example)

These'll typically be two-prong power supplies so there's no worry about grounding at the PSU plug or powerbar level

but if you are cross-patching it with other gear, you'll want to share a ground between the two

now onto the jacks...

the one at the back by the power inlet is the output. It's a stereo output as plumbutter is a stereo thing. it's a 1/8" TRS stereo minijack. You can get cables with one 1/8" TRS minijack one one end that split into two 1/4" TS mono jacks on the other end. Handy. Or make adapter cables as needed etc.

The ones on the front are the inputs. I have a PB1, not a 1, and I have pairs of mono 1/4" TS jacks. Guessing looking at PB2 these jacks are stereo 1/8" TRS inputs. One is for the deerhorn, one is for the Gongues, and one is for the avDogs. The right side of the stereo input goes to the right-side Gongue, left side to the left-side Gongue, same arrangement for the avDogs. Deerhorn is deerhorn and is two tones.

When inputting audio into Deerhorn, avDog, start with the "Trad/Gonz" switch in the middle, which disables the modules own internal voices and feeds the input through them. Next select either Trad or Gonz and see how it integrates with your audio.

Gongue seems to need the trad or gonz setting, disabling his voice doesn't work in this case because of what Gongue is. Gongue needs to be active.

I've said WAY too much here.

HAVE FUN!
chorus7
Rereading the online manual a few dozen times helped me but the starting point for me was the tips and tricks part if you scroll all the way down on the page... I'll quote it below... especially this part...

for extra long avdogtones patch from the avdog's orange CV out back into its own blue CV in (verso). depending on the knob settings this will give you anything from a longer than normal note to a steady drone both of which can be further FM modulated.

It gave me a constant starting point... Also if you need a walk through give me a call and I'll give you some patch suggestions...

Also read the patch sharing topic...

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=82402

there are some amazing examples with audio and visual to help you on your way... and above all else try everything into everything...

Quote:
Here is a diagram of the various orange voltages available at modules. These are intended to be low frequency modulators, that mutate the machine in a gestural way.

use the man with red steam sequencer as a pulse divider - if you want to trigger events at a slower rate than the slowest rollz, patch from a 4-roll into the clock input of the man with red steam, then set it to loop using one of the orange jacks. Turn on a bit using the red button and you will only get the trigger every 5-8 pulses of the rollz oscillator.
If you have a double plumbutter you can get even longer time between triggers by feeding one sequencer with the data output of the other. This will give you up to 16 steps between triggers. So patch the last orange jack from sequencer 1 into the purple data input of sequencer 2 and vice versa (last orange of seq2 into data of seq 1). clock sequencer 1 with the roll of your choice and enter 1 or more bits using the red button. now you can trigger events spaced a really long time apart.
daisy chain the white audio out jacks to get various submixes of sounds - if you want to get alternate mixes of sounds for further processing just patch several white jacks together and then on to your external mixer or fx.
for extra long avdogtones patch from the avdog's orange CV out back into its own blue CV in (verso). depending on the knob settings this will give you anything from a longer than normal note to a steady drone both of which can be further FM modulated.
use ultrasound to get stepped tones from deerhorns - patch from ultrasound yellow CV jack to the FM in of one of the deerhorns. Make sure the freq knob of the deerhorn is set fairly high. now when you turn the deerhorn freq knob it will pull the deerhorn oscillators up in stepped intervals, giving it a hard sync type sound.
if you have a double PB, try cross fm-ing the deerhorns..it sounds really good. patch from the 2 white jacks from one deerhorn to the 2 purple jacks of the other. now do the same for the other pair of white/purple jacks. you can get some great modulated tones by playing with the various FM and freq knob settings.
what is the difference between the red and orange jacks in the Man with Red Steam? Also it seems that only the orange ones will trigger the avdogs (not the red), is this correct? The red jacks are pulse outputs, suitable for jerking brown geometries or triggering gongs. The orange jacks are more like square waveforms that reflect the state of the sequencer at that point. Since AVDog is triggered by slow resonances, it will respond better to the orange jacks because they have more "meat" on them, when on, rather than being a quick pulse.
is it safe to stack more than one output onto an input jack? for instance, two orange CV out jacks onto one blue CV? on some synths it is and and others its not recommended. safe
i noticed the FM knobs effect the base pitch even when there is nothing in the purple jacks (ie, on the deerhorns), however the exact relationship is hard to discern. what is going on there? The FM knobs do more than nothing when there is no input: they act as a fine tuning knob for the main audio oscillator.
wednesdayayay
Guinness ftw!
the Plumbuter is wonderful

to make the avdog drone constantly try inputting its own orange CV output into its own blue verso/inverso inputs

there is a lot of good information in the "decoding the labrollz" thread on here

from great tips to a more straightforward description of the instrument and its parts
wednesdayayay
by the way the banana jack on the back of the unit (Where the audio output is) is the plumbutter's ground

I use the ground to interface the PB and the Cocoquantus
shady smiles
wednesdayayay shared these gems from pugix in another thread. May be handy here. Edifying for me anyway!

pugix wrote:
AVDog and Gongue clarified.

Peter's descriptions of these modules on the web page and the schematics are, as usual, light on simplification, but rich in philosophy. I really enjoy reading them. Makes me think and it's fun to figure stuff out. Yesterday, as I ate lunch at work, I read over the AVDog schematic yet again and got more insight into how it works.

AVDOG

AVDog is essentially a VCO followed by a pair of VCAs. The two knobs inside the 'dog body' outline are the main frequency and FM CV attenuator of the VCO. The VCO goes right into a pair of VCAs, the outputs of which are the white and red jacks. Note that the VCO is unheard except by way of the VCAs. (Aux inputs also go into the VCAs.) The unique part of AVDog is the use of a state-variable VCF as an envelope generator. You all know that a filter can be made to ring by sending a pulse to its input. That is exactly what INPULS is, the green jack. It's the VCF input. But think of it rather as the trigger input to the EG. The filter runs at sub-audio frequencies to make an envelope for the VCAs. (This envelope is available on the orange jack.) Unlike a normal EG, this one has a response rate and a Q control (the knobs outside the dog body). These vary how it responds to trigger inputs. The blue VER and INV are CV inputs for the EG response rate. That's it. When you send external input to AVDog, you are using it as a EG/VCA and the VCO is deactivated by setting the TRAD/GONZ switch to the middle.

GONGUE

It's a bit confusing that AVDog and Gongue have the same panel layout. They are different beasts. Gongue is essentially a VCF, but it only acts in a normal VCF manner when using the Aux input. It's primary use is as a filter that rings in the audio range. The filter center frequency, CV input, and Q controls are inside the body outline. It makes the bongo sound by being run by another part of its circuit, that I'll call the Trigger part (Theta on the schematic). Theta is an envelope generator, but a very strange one. It's triggered by INPULS (green), but the triggers are delayed by a voltage controlled section. The rate pot for that is outside the Gongue body outline (in the same location as the frequency pot for AVDog). The blue VER and INV CV inputs affect the Trigger section. The result of delaying of the INPULS goes to the filter input to ring it, resulting in bongos. This is simple, right. lol I have a harder time explaining Gongue, because the Trigger part isn't like any ordinary synthesizer module. It also outputs its envelope on the orange and gray jacks. Orange is normal and gray is inverted (and also AC-coupled for some reason).
duallaud
hello guys, i'm going to get plumbutter 2 soon, just wondering how can i clock the plumbutter 2 with octatrack or analog four? what kind of cable should i use? thanks a lot!
deltaphoenix
duallaud wrote:
hello guys, i'm going to get plumbutter 2 soon, just wondering how can i clock the plumbutter 2 with octatrack or analog four? what kind of cable should i use? thanks a lot!


Well, the PlumButter uses banana cables, so if you were take clock from the A4, you would need a format converter box, look at low-gains electronics if you are not handy.

I have successfully clocked the PlumButter from other gear, really just as an exercise. Some of the PlumButter will stay in time better than other parts of it. The PlumButter is really designed to do its thing at its own pace (or swing). It will be a very fun and deep instrument to explore and probably very fun to sample and mangle in the OT.
duallaud
thank you!
dave_maccadangdang
Hi,

I know that the power supply is meant to have tip positive, but i don't quite understand this.
Is the inside of the barrel positive?

Thank You..
Lauflicht
Yes, tip means inside for a barrel connector. This is opposite to e.g. a Boss supply.

My PB2 is also on its way. My first Ciat-Lonbarde instrument. This will be fun.

BTW, very quick delivery, only 2 weeks from ordering! (surely it will get stuck at the German customs over x-mas etc. ... oh well)
easyskywalker
Lauflicht wrote:
Yes, tip means inside for a barrel connector. This is opposite to e.g. a Boss supply.

My PB2 is also on its way. My first Ciat-Lonbarde instrument. This will be fun.

BTW, very quick delivery, only 2 weeks from ordering! (surely it will get stuck at the German customs over x-mas etc. ... oh well)


Oh cool! Same here! But for now it has been in Norway for a week, says the tracking site...
I asked Peter if he could do a ground connector, within a day the replied it would be on there, and a few days later it was already shipped! Can't wait! : )
easyskywalker
Plumbutter 2 is here!
It's awesome!
I found the patches in one of the other threads here very helpful. https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=82402
And also in this thread I got a lot of useful information. Thanks everybody who contributed : )

On the right is the requested ground banana.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/easyskywalker/23592218960/
yghartsyrt
new to the plumbutter club. Still not sure, what to think of it. I'm still struggling to get some serious action going. First steps sound promising, although I have no clue how i got there. It also has a fm radio going into the gongz and a benjolin lowpass going into the deerhorn.
Do you guys often use the aux ins?
[s]http://soundcloud.com/nq_nhlsqaik/plumbutter_meets_benjolin[/s]
wednesdayayay
I usually use at least one aux gong most often avdog next and honest I haven't used the deerhorn aux in too much yet but I hope to

1/8 stereo to 2(L&R) banana jack adapters are your friend here
Madrayken
Mine arrived. So did 6 patch cords (more coming). Christ. WTF have I done?!! It's like trying to ride a bicycle while realizing your left hand has been taped to one of the spokes... and the tires are made of spam.

I can make it honk like a Plague Bearer, or ping like Pong. Sometimes both. I have no idea if this is a good thing or not. I feel like Homer being shown his artsy 'Mr Plough' advert.

yghartsyrt
wednesdayayay wrote:
I usually use at least one aux gong most often avdog next and honest I haven't used the deerhorn aux in too much yet but I hope to

1/8 stereo to 2(L&R) banana jack adapters are your friend here


So it's save to just strip a stereo minijack cable from one of its connectors and put banana connectors on it?
Sorry if this seems a stupid question – I'm new to the world of nanas
ClausF
Madrayken wrote:
Mine arrived. So did 6 patch cords (more coming). Christ. WTF have I done?!! It's like trying to ride a bicycle while realizing your left hand has been taped to one of the spokes... and the tires are made of spam.

I can make it honk like a Plague Bearer, or ping like Pong. Sometimes both. I have no idea if this is a good thing or not. I feel like Homer being shown his artsy 'Mr Plough' advert.

Don't fear. This is normal. Guinness ftw!
wednesdayayay
I have never had an issue with it

I use these kind of cables frequently





from Left to right they are

stereo 1/8 to dual mono 1/8 (L&R)

stereo 1/8 to dual stereo 1/8

stereo 1/8 to dual banana jacks
yghartsyrt
good to know. Time to get some cables ready
aethersprite
Where'd you get that stereo to dual mono?
Vubhei
Guys, I've started to read up on the CL instruments and I'm a bit confused about the ground connection. Someone on here said that you only need it if you want to connect other gear to PB.

I've realised that electronics and electricity really aren't my strong points and am reading up on it, but a bit more info on this would be helpful.
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