MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index

 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Information
Happy new year to everyone! Thanks for being part of this place, every year you all get cooler and cooler. Apologies to everyone waiting on me for PMs, emails, subforum creation, etc. The holidays have been super busy! I'll be catching up over the next week, please hit me up again at that point if I haven't gotten back to you yet. Sorry for the delay. Thanks! <3

Two Thousand Six Hundred (TTSH) Roadcase Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next [all]
Author Two Thousand Six Hundred (TTSH) Roadcase Build Thread
AssistiveListening
So I thought.. maybe it might be helpful to create a thread for the roadcase so I don't flood the General Building thread

...

For anybody interested:

I am most probably going to make a roadcase as close to the original as possible.

I actually found all parts needed and also very similar to the original.
Most links are for a german shop but I guess you can find all of these for your country too.


Grip http://www.caseman-berlin.de/Griffe/Koffergriffe/Attach-koffer-Griff-1 04.html

Corner braces: http://www.caseman-berlin.de/Ecken-und-L-Winkel/L-Winkel/Schliesswinke l-27x15-mit-Gleitkuppe.html

Corner http://www.caseman-berlin.de/Ecken-und-L-Winkel/Flachecken/Flachecke-4 9mm.html

Corner (alternative) http://www.ebay.de/itm/Set-of-Four-Small-Three-Leg-Cabinet-Corners-Nic kle-Finish-1280X4-/281028170579?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Parts_Accessories&hash =item416e959353

Latches http://www.caseman-berlin.de/Verschluesse/Aufbauschloesser/Schnappschl oss-klein.html

Latches (alternative) http://www.ebay.de/itm/261256715874?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p 3984.m1423.l2648

Tolex: http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/de/shop_Bezugsstoffe_Bezugsstoffe_Tolex/B lack_Elephant_66

People in the US might want to check this shop: http://www.diyroadcasesstore.com/

I bought the latches from ebay (alternative) since they are even closer to the original, without the third hole on the top part.
I also got the corners from ebay (alternative) since they are also closer to the original. The screw-holes have longer lips.


Roadcase measurements for 10mm strong plywood

[1] front/back
x 2
- 400.0mm x 640.0mm x 10.0mm
[2] top/bottom
x 4
- 90.0mm x 640.0mm x 10.0mm
[3] left/right
x 4
- 400.0mm x 80.0mm x 10.0mm
[4] bottom(inner)
x 1
- 160.0mm x 620.0mm x 10.0mm
[5] front(inner)
x 1
- 86.0mm x 600.0mm x 10.0mm
[6] top (inner)
x 1
- 60.0mm x 600.0mm x 10.0mm
[7] left/right (inner)
x 2
- 390.0mm x 80.0mm x 10.0mm
- 96.0mm x 160.0mm Δ ~304.7mm (74.78°)


I think this should be correct. I'm not entirely sure though. should definitely be double (or tripple) checked. I guess I need to make a 3d model of it to be 100% sure. I thought I could do without.. but I really don't want to make a mistake so I guess it's better to make one.
...

I will also make slider-caps for the LED-faders. More info once I know more about it.

I added an image from another DIYers Arp 2600 clone. You might have seen it here on Muffs. he has a Flicker stream of his building progress. I will be making a slightly different but similar case: http://www.flickr.com/photos/arp2600clone/with/9554883560/

Here's another gallery from tonetweakers which has photos from every side of the case: http://www.tonetweakers.com/used/arp2600.4.htm

Grip:


Corner braces:


Corners:


(alternative)

Latches:


(alternative)

Roadcase measurements

other Arp 2600 clone (original size)
adnauseam
I've found a source for tolex and much of the other hardware in Canada

http://www.steamcomusic.com/catalog/cabinet-hardware

Tolex, Metal corners, handles, rubber feet.

I didn't see metal edges (for the flight case effect) but that's not the end of the world.
Heavy Metal Kid
Won't that construction tip forward when you remove the front?
flts
I'm kind of thinking of buying / building a normal ugly plywood ATA style flightcase and just building the TTSH, a linear PSU and a MIDI interface into that. Easy to carry, utilitarian, don't have to worry about the tolex wearing off. I've built cool looking tolexed cases in the past but for some reason I just want simple and sturdy for this.

FWIW I'll promote my local electronics & parts store here (not affiliated with them but they're nice guys) in case you need specific case parts: http://www.uraltone.com/ ... They ship worldwide I suppose, but due to expensive Finnish postal prices I'm not sure if it'll be worth ordering at least anything bigger to abroad. Usually online orders are cheaper from countries like Germany where the logistics companies thrive.

FWIW there are plenty of shops that offer parts for DIY flightcases in EU and USA... The only reason why I'm not posting a list here is that I don't have one compiled, but by googling for DIY flightcase you'll find a few tutorials that have links and a few more shops that stock parts.
nickster
Brilliant idea, thanks for posting this topic. Just what I was looking for. It's peanut butter jelly time!
AssistiveListening
Heavy Metal Kid wrote:
Won't that construction tip forward when you remove the front?


Nope. The weight is balanced. Also two different heights are needed for the feet (15mm and 25mm). The cover has holes through which the feet of the front can be put when the cover is on. So with no cover the feet make sure the case is standing completely straight. I also chose to use 10mm plywood to make sure the case is heavy enough to stand securely on its own.

If needed weights could be added in the bottom of the case, though I'm pretty sure it will be balanced perfectly as it is

This image shows how the bottom looks (with the feet looking through the case)
Heavy Metal Kid
Alright! Good idea with those uneven legs.
grizzle
Hey, I'm having a friend build me and a friends cases for the TTSH. Have you built your case yet? Are the measurements totally correct?

Cheers,
Alex
minisystem
Looking forward to seeing this in finished form. If I ever get around to building my TTSH, this is definitely the kind of case I would go for.
Randy
Another source for Canadian supplies, Trans Canada Hardware:

http://www.tchweb.com/tchstore/home.do

I'm thinking about building a two-sided case. One side for a TTSH (just in case) and the other for Eurorack. Just want to make sure of one thing 'though. I'm thinking 600mm = 120HP (600/5). Is that correct?

Randy
adnauseam
So who's still building a case?
I've just gone out and bought a couple of pull saws, a cordless drill, some screws and wood chisels. (Thought I may try my hand at some dovetails)

I'll be building a similar case to the one AssistedListening has shown. Not sure if I'll go with hard wood and just paint it or what.

Right off the bat I've come across two problems I need to solve:
How does one calculate how much wood you need for a given project? Are there some great freeware software applications that could help with the simple geometry work required? (Best fit sizing, etc)

Anyone familiar with the process of putting tolex on the outside of a box like this? Does one just skip the fine bits (eg. the bits around the angled part inside) or does it simply require patients and proper measurements? I suspect its' a bit like wrapping a present but more complicated.

Anyways, just what my newb mind has come up with so far.

I look forward to this project!
limpmeat
As far as the sizing of raw sheet material size, the industrial term is 'nesting'. There are programs that you input the sizes and shapes you need and they work out the most economical size of raw sheet to buy.

I think some google will bring up some free online calculators.
AssistiveListening
@adnauseam

I started building the case and hope I can present the result in a few weeks. Sadly I'm very busy so it might take a while. All in all it's a 3 day project (respecting dry-times).

One problem I ran into is: "add a buffer of 1 - 2 mm to all sides".
The general measurements I made are correct but keep in mind: "wood can be a bitch" so you wanna give it a little room. Also if you want to cover the case in tolex keep that in mind too when measuring the sides.
mattrick
AssistiveListening wrote:
@adnauseam

One problem I ran into is: "add a buffer of 1 - 2 mm to all sides".
The general measurements I made are correct but keep in mind: "wood can be a bitch" so you wanna give it a little room. Also if you want to cover the case in tolex keep that in mind too when measuring the sides.


+10000

Not leaving an extra 1mm or so for the tolex started a long chain of problems for me, and probably cost me about a week of time. Can't stress enough the importance of leaving sufficient space to be able to easily slide the inner case in and out of the outer case, with the tolex on.

I also had problems with mounting the panel to the case. The main issue is that you need sturdy supports, but you only have about 5mm space around the PCB. You need to carefully consider how you're going to get the board onto the mounts - it made sense to me in my head before I tried it, but when it came to it I had to file down my supports to get the panel in.

I used 4-40 tee nuts, glued to the mounts, so I could use machine screws to hold the panel instead of wood screws. I was concerned that wood screws may not work so well after a few unscrewings.

The tolex wrapping was fairly simple, but more time consuming than the demos on YouTube would have you believe. Do check some demos on YouTube though, they are very helpful. I used a rolling pin as a ghetto J-roller, it worked ok. I tried 3M "90" spray adhesive, which didn't hold too well, then tried 3M "98" which produced much better results. The hardest part of tolex wrapping for me was getting clean seams, but having since compared the quality of my seams to those on some popular (and pricey) commercial euro cases, I'm pretty happy with how mine turned out. I built my outer case and inner case/frame, wrapped them both (enough so that there would be no bare wood exposed), then put them together.

Some pics of my build process here
limpmeat
Any updates?

are those sizes in the initial post correct despite the 1-2mm tolerance for tolex?

thinking of making one of these.
nickster
limpmeat wrote:
Any updates?

are those sizes in the initial post correct despite the 1-2mm tolerance for tolex?

thinking of making one of these.


I'm also interested if anyone can confirm this please.
fuzzbass
nickster wrote:
limpmeat wrote:
Any updates?

are those sizes in the initial post correct despite the 1-2mm tolerance for tolex?

thinking of making one of these.


I'm also interested if anyone can confirm this please.


Looks like I am going to be building a couple of these in the near future. I have been building with tolex, and have personally experienced all above referenced heartaches (insufficient clearance, poor adhesion, sloppy joints).

In the past I worked with Mojotone's tolex adhesive. Its OK, but difficult to work with, and you need to apply many coats to get strong adhesion. My next work will be paid, and I need to provide a superior bond and fit. So I will be looking at some other adhesives.

This design has the synth inside a cabinet, and that cabinet inside another. Both cabinets are upholstered. We need to allow for the thickness of the tolex. Too little, the cover won't go on, too much and it all looks like hell. If you want a really strong tolex application, you will probably end up with more than 1mm. I plan to experiment with improved adhesive methods this weekend and will publish data in the next few days regarding methods, materials and measurements. Stay tuned.
fuzzbass
Back from the workshop.

The test method I used involved two adhesives. The first is a brush on type contact adhesive typically used for laminates. This was applied to the wood. I used DAP Contact Adhesive, and applied two coats, about fifteen minutes apart. The second adhesive was an aerosol type called 3M 90 Spray Adhesive, applied with a single coat to the Tolex. After the final coating and ten minutes of dry time, the materials were brought together and bonded strongly. Final curing probably takes about 24 hours.

The tolex I am using is about .5mm thick. The combination of Tolex and adhesive is adding just a hair less than 1mm of thickness to the test workpiece. So, 1mm is probably a good working number of Tolex clearance.

Whatever adhesive you choose to work with, be sure to apply it to both the wood and the tolex before bringing the work together. The ones I chose are particularly sticky and strong - not well suited for repositioning. I measure carefully and plan the moves out dry before going to glue.

Both of the adhesives tested contain nasty solvents and should be applied with good ventilation. Also, for brush on adhesives, don't use one of your good paint brushes. The adhesive will destroy whatever brush is used, and I recommend buying the very cheapest craft store throwaway brushes you can find. Between applications, drop the brush into a cup of water to prevent the glue from hardening.
jules
Fun question:

How do you attached the actual synth/front panel to the box?
Strip of wood, aluminium?
Mesmerised
Any news on your TTSH Roadcase builds yet? (pictures, pictures, pictures!!)

How did it work out?

@mattrick: yours is really a beaute! Turned out great! thumbs up
LED-man
my studiocases are finished, still wait on the Tolex job for the Roadcase.

some pictures here
https://www.dsl-man.de/display/DSO/TTSH+Case
LED-man
Tolexjob done..



elmegil
Very nice!
mattrick
One of my new roadcase builds:

fuzzbass
mattrick wrote:
One of my new roadcase builds


This looks excellent.

When I think about the weight of the system, and how the cabinet joints are constructed, and how that weight is borne by the top handle, my conclusion is that the braces are needed for for long term survival of the case. I can't seem to find anything suitable in the US. Penn-Elcom makes one, but none of their retail distributors carry it. Did you fabricate yours? Thanks.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3  Next [all]
Page 1 of 3
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group