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would a case like this work?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules  
Author would a case like this work?
johnnymad
i've been noticing how freaking sweet suitcase modulars look and am looking for a cheap solution. would something like this work? i know i'll have to find a way to get the rails in and will have a little extra space at the top. i'll probably do a panel of mults or something. any thoughts?

case?
jenamu6
It might work....check the measurements.

But a $29,- case won't be very sturdy I guess.

And why would you place $1000,- or more worth of modules in a $29,- case.

Buy a decent, good looking and very strong case.
johnnymad
i'm just looking right now. i won't commit to anything until i actually see the case in person and check out the quality (or lack thereof) of the build. i wouldn't use it as a flight case or anything.
science
So basically, you can have that site mark up the price of that case about $100, and it will be more worthy of housing your eurorack modules.
jenamu6
@Science don't be a smartypants (I know you can't help it hihi )

You know what I mean, don't you?
dkcg
I don't think that case will be deep enough for half the modules out.

If you go with all shallow modules it might work, but you would want to rip out the lining, put rails in, put power busses in where they would be out of the way, and I'm not sure where you could put the transformer w/o it being in danger of touching the back of a module.

I agree with jenamu6 on putting $1000 in a $29 case, just kinda asking for trouble. I can't see $29 buying much quality. Might be a different story with a pelican case or halliburton case or mounting rails in an ATA case, but I just wouldn't trust a cheap briefcase with any modules. If this is your first system, the last thing you want to deal with is power issues, grounding issues, etc.

You should be able to find used G6's for about $350
Empty 3u Schroff style euro cases for under $100
You could even get a 3u euro case and power 2 or 3 more rows with that one supply too.

The Monorocket cases are pretty reasonable in cost and great quality.

Just stay away from Randall's synthcase.com. I have yet to hear of one order (other than a few rails) being filled.
johnnymad
all of my modules are pretty shallow. i have mostly malekko, makenoise, harvestman, and a couple doepfer modules. i was planning on gutting the case anyways to make more space. my psu was built by flight and it's in it's own enclosure that i'll mount outside of the case probably.

i really don't NEED another case, i just think they look cool. i've never paid more the $50 on a case since i've been into modulars. my dad is a carpenter and can pretty much build anything as long as i tell him the measurements. i think i'll go by harbor freight later today to check them out. if it doesn't work, i can at least use it for storage.
wetterberg
come on guys, wise up a bit, price doesn't equal quality smile

If you think pragmatically instead of dogmatically you'll see a tool case, designed to be at least manhandled a bit, and it'll be plenty useful for a synth case.

Now for the caveat, for several reasons, most notably rigidity and ease of mounting I would put in an additional aluminium frame. I did that with my case that had cost like 15 times more than that one (I got mine used tho, so no longer expensive)

what you can do with the psu is buy up like a little flute case, or an old typewriter case. They're nice and portable, and look great.
jenamu6
Maybe you could ask your dad to make you a nice wooden suitcase.

That's classy and is rugged enough.
Cat-A-Tonic
I recently found a case at the local hardware store that is almost exactly the same as the one in the OP link. (and about the same price)
Mine has the same dimensions, but the handle is molded with finger grips, and the body panels are corrugated silver instead of smooth black.

I have been looking around for portable suitcase options for a while.
Most of the ones I have seen in music stores (for pedals) have been really flimsy and overpriced.
This one is cheaper, and the panels are sturdier.
Definitely check it out in person.
Press on the center of the largest panel to feel how much flex/rigidity it has.
Peel back the lip of the foam to make sure all of the rims have been assembled properly.
I didn't check under the glued on foam, and mine has one minor error on the interior that can't be fixed without reriveting one corner joint.
It probably isn't worth fixing in my case.

It fits the regular 84HP Euro rack rails almost perfectly. (2 rows + utility strips)
I am fitting strips of wood in the sides to take up the slack.

I will do an external PSU.

All of the Euro rack modules I have so far are at the most 2 inches deep.
They all fit fine with plenty of room for buss boards.

I ripped out the foam and will be installing custom canvas lining with a pocket in the lid for patch cables, and maybe a smaller one for jack adapters and splitters.

It does not have removable hinges for the lid, so I am looking for some suitable replacements.
The hinges that come with the case have a metal bit that keeps the lid at a fixed maximum angle when open.
You cannot open it flat without cutting these parts off.
If anyone has advice about separating hinges it would be appreciated.

It still needs work, but it is getting there and I have a Power One PSU and Soft-wire buss boards on the way.

I was concerned about the prospect of getting modules that are too deep for it, but it is more than half full of uber-shallow modules already.
And I intend to make a 4 row wooden case for the studio as I expand.
I do the same thing with my Frac rig.
I currently have 4 rows in a (16u) wooden studio case,
and 2 rows in an ultra-lightweight cardboard enclosure (earless Blacet frames make it plenty sturdy.
I am also planning a wooden expansion case for the Frac that has more console angles for touch panels and joysticks...

If a small, portable case looks really nice and expensive it lends a hint to thieves that its contents are valuable.
I can understand the sentiment of wanting something really 'classy', but I think there is an advantage to discretion.
wetterberg
Cat-A-Tonic wrote:
It does not have removable hinges for the lid, so I am looking for some suitable replacements.
The hinges that come with the case have a metal bit that keeps the lid at a fixed maximum angle when open.
You cannot open it flat without cutting these parts off.
If anyone has advice about separating hinges it would be appreciated.
that metal bit can be removed, it's probably rivetted in place, right? It usually is anyway, and those can be removed, simply drill out the rivet and the whole thing will fall out.
re. the hinges those can usually be bent back to allow the lid to come clean off when it's opened up all the way. I'd need to see a close-up of it to confirm, but that's how I've done it in the past - those cases are quite popular as guitar pedal cases where the lid is used as the base, I think.
loudone
jenamu6 wrote:
Maybe you could ask your dad to make you a nice wooden suitcase.

That's classy and is rugged enough.

That's what i was gonna say, you can even buy material and "case parts" to make it look like an "instrument case" or old suitcase even.
They sell handles, corners, angle aluminum, even the steal with treads, got me thinking now too. hmmm.....
DGTom
These cases work nice;



In fact that one linked looks almost indentical to mine.

The #1 trick is to drill the absolute minimum number of new holes & if you can get them thru the side where there is aluminum already, all the better grin

#2 is aluminium angle, like wetterberg said, reinforce the sucker! My rails are bolted straight thru the side into the M4 threaded holes in the actual rails, I also have a piece of 19X12X3mm along each side & a bunch of nuts so nothing will move.

Along the back of the case, underneth the handle I have a 38mm X 38mm piece of angle & a 12mm X 12mm down the bottom, still a gap here:



With a little thought & work these can make really solid cases thumbs up
berfmurret
this is pretty hottssss.
johnnymad
i went ahead and bought it. it's was on sale for $20.00. SlayerBadger! it might take some work but i might be able to make it work. it seems sturdy enough for sitting around my home studio. and if it doesn't work at least i can make it into a pedal board or put some other diy stuff in there.
johnnymad
everything is working out so far. there's plenty of clearance between the modules and the case. pretty sure the busboard will fit behind with out a problem. i'll test that out tomorrow. now i just have to mark all the holes and start drilling. i still have to tear out all the foam and i'll use some of the dividers that came in the tool box to fill in the space between the case and the rails. still have to figure out how to get the hinge off of the lid. will do that tomorrow.



Dragh
What is internal depth of suitcases in the picture?

thx
johnnymad
the depth of my case is 6 inches. i think the depth of the part i'm actually using is around 4-4.5 inches. not sure of the exact measurement. that's just a guess.
Blackened Justice
DGTom wrote:
These cases work nice;
In fact that one linked looks almost indentical to mine.

The #1 trick is to drill the absolute minimum number of new holes & if you can get them thru the side where there is aluminum already, all the better grin

#2 is aluminium angle, like wetterberg said, reinforce the sucker! My rails are bolted straight thru the side into the M4 threaded holes in the actual rails, I also have a piece of 19X12X3mm along each side & a bunch of nuts so nothing will move.

Along the back of the case, underneth the handle I have a 38mm X 38mm piece of angle & a 12mm X 12mm down the bottom, still a gap here:
With a little thought & work these can make really solid cases thumbs up


Are those Davies' knobs on the MFB modules? Looking pretty slick, the red switch-condoms too. Might have to re-knob my Kraftzwerg ;D
governor blacksnake
I built my "Nuclear Football" case from one of these toolboxes in early 2007. It survived a bunch of live performances and even a weekend on the NAMM show floor. I still bring it out from time to time.
johnnymad
governor blacksnake wrote:
I built my "Nuclear Football" case from one of these toolboxes in early 2007. It survived a bunch of live performances and even a weekend on the NAMM show floor. I still bring it out from time to time.


how'd you deal with the lid? i'm thinking about cutting off the square brackets that keep the lid from opening up all the way so i can pull then pin off of the hinge. then maybe i'll get some cotter pins or something like that so i can reattach the lid in case i need to carry it around.
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