MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

E.A.S. Mindreader PCB 1.5 Build thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next [all]
Author E.A.S. Mindreader PCB 1.5 Build thread
lessavyfav
Hel All, Ive been talking with EAS about the adjusted BOM and build notes for the 1.5 version of his Mindreader PCB and with his approval am starting this thread. I've just ordered the parts and am up to share my Mouser cart and the notes I went over with EAS. If, when my Mouser order arrives there are any adjustments that need to be made I'll try to keep this topic 1 updated, as of 3-24-14 here I what I have... hopefully I don't steer anyone wrong ;-)

E.A.S. MindReader v1.5 BOM

Thru Hole Resistors
100R x 1 - R60
470R x 1 - R36
680R x 2 - R20,R55
820R x 1 - R1
1k x 3 - R30,48,56
2k x 6 - R41,42,43,44,45,52
2.2k x 1 - R51
2.7k x 6 - R7,11,35,40,46,64
3.3k x 1 - R21
4.7k x 4 - R8,22,32 ,62
6.2k x 1 - R63
10k x 11 - R,R9,10,27,28,31,33,37,39,50,58
7.5k x 1 - R59
11k x 1 - R38
15k x 1 - R26
22k x 5 - R3,13,15,23,47
43.2k x 1 - R54
47k x 2 - R12,14
100k x 7 - R2,4,5,19,24,25,34
150k x 1 - R6
200k x 1 - R57
220k x 3 - R16,29,49
1M x 1 - R53
2M x 1 - R61
2.2M x 1 - R17

SMT Resistor
1k Tempco x 1 R18 -If you have a real aversion to SMT skip it and use a standard 1k resistor.
The original didn't have a tempco resister here.

Capacitors:
100p x 3 - C17,20,21 - ceramic disk
220p x 2 - C3,4 - ceramic disk
12000p x 1 - C2 - film
.015 x 4 - C5,7,8,9 - film
.033 x 2 - C10,12 - film
.056 x 2 - C6,11 - film
0.1uf x 2 - C18,19 - film
1uf x 3 - C1,15,16 - Electro
100uf x 2 - C13,14 - Electro

Diodes:
1N4148 x 5 - D1 to 5

ICs
LM339 x 1 - IC2
CD4069 x 1 - IC4
TL071 x 1 - IC3
TL074 x 2 - U2,3
TL072 x 1 - U4
2N3904 x 5 -Q1,2, TR1,2,5

LEDs:
x2 Red

Trimmers:
10KB x 3 VR1,3,9
100KB x 1 VR2

Panel Pots:
10kB x 2 VR3, Offset knob(J4,5,6) (Small Alpha Pots in cart)
1M x 1 VR7 (16mm Alpha Pot)
"Special Pots" x 2 VR5,6


Miscellaneous:
DIP14 x 4 sockets
DIP8 x 2 sockets
Jacks x 7 J1,2,9,17,29x2,30
Power header x 1 J3

The above can be found in this Mouser Cart:
http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=6e008 42f50

*****April 1 2014 update****
This cart is based on the old Mindreader Cart and has a bunch of 5% resistors in it. Shouldn't be a huge deal. The original Korg used ALL 5% I'm normally just a 1% across the board high roller though so... I thought I'd mention it.


Order the project and then remove parts you don't need or up the quantities where you want price breaks or whatever. If you decide to skip the SMT tempo resistor remove it from the cart but be sure to add an extra regular 1k resistor to replace it.


As of March 24 2014 the 10KB alpha pots for threshold/offset are on backorder at Mouser. You could remove them from your cart and order from smallbear: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=693 they have 10KB, and the 1M if you want all 9mm. Or you could use 16mm Alphas for all- but I think the panel is tight enough back there to warrant the smaller

Not in cart:
Hook up wire
Doepfer power cable
Knobs

--------------------------

Other Info:

VR1 trimmer for DC offset from TL071
VR2 trimmer for the tachometer comparator threshold
VR3 threshold panel pot
VR4 trimmer that sets output from main ESP. Scales down level feeding log amp. normally "cv adjust" panel pot on ms20.
VR5 special pot High Cut - WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDED
VR6 special pot Low Cut - WIRING DIAGRAM NEEDED
VR7 Gain panel pot
VR9 Trimmer for scaling the V/O out- works in conjunction with VR4

J1 - audio IN jack
J2 - V/0 out jack

J3 - POWER!

J4 - Offset panel pot cw.
J5 - Offset panel pot wiper.
J6 - Offset panel pot ccw.

J9 - Preamp Output Jack
J17 - Filter Output Jack
J29 - Env Output Jack
J30 - Gate Out Jack

The mini pcbs are wired 1 to 1, i.e. pin 1, goes to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2. the orientation doesn't matter, and the connection isn't polarized. just as long as they are not scrambled it'll work.

--------------------------

Calibration Procedure: (Subject to change)

Step 1:

With no input, Set All knobs to "0"

Adjust "VR1" for 0v at pin 6 of IC3

Step 2:

Connect an Oscillator (VCO1) to the input jack. For calibration, a lower harmonic wave shape like sine is best, but other wave shapes will work.

Adjust gain knob so that the "LED1" just lights up.
Adjust high pass and low pass filters "wide open" (if using a waveform with a higher harmonic, i.e. saw, Adjust the low pass filters to roll of the higher harmonics)

Set "offset knob" to center. (half up)

Connect v/oct output to the V/oct input of a second VCO. (VCO2)

a. Set VCO1 to 55hz (A1)

b. Adjust VCO2 to match the pitch of VCO1.

c. Tune VCO1 to 440hz

d. Adjust VR4 until VCO2 pitch matches VCO1

Tune VCO1 to 55hz

Tune VCO2 to match the pitch of VCO1

Check that the VCO2 tracks VCO1 when switched from 55hz,110hz, 220hz,440hz...etc.

if tracking is off, repeat steps a thru d until ESP has satisfactory tracking.

Here is a link to the pic of the PCB in case like me your IC sockets hide the IC names!
https://flic.kr/p/kbMkyb

-------------------------------------------------------

Other notes:

Quote:

vicpop wrote:
The GATE output, however, sits at 5V when the gain LED isn't lit, and jumps up to 12V when it is. This seems a little extreme to me, but maybe I'm wrong?


Thanks for pointing this out!

The fix is to place a jumper in R62's location, and take R62 and put it on the gate output jack from tip to GND.

This will give you the proper 0-5v gate output.

-Mike


Quote:
To get more output out of the "amp" out, theres a voltage divider just before the amp output jack on the PCB. you can remove (lift one side of, or replace with a larger value) R46, and that'll give you a lot more output before it distorts.

Same goes for the other outputs.

I.e. R35 of the ENV output and R40 on the FILTER output.

While we are talking MODs, by lowering R44,R42,R43, and R41 you can squeeze a little more range out of the HP filter (LOW CUT) sweep.

..same goes for the LPF.

-M
lessavyfav
And for people who like their parts in number order rather then value order:

C1 1uF
C2 12000p
C3 220p
C4 220p
C5 .015
C6 .056
C7 .015
C8 .015
C9 .015
C10 .033
C11 .056
C12 .033
C13 100uF
C14 100uF
C15 1uF
C16 1uF
C17 100p
C18 0.1uF
C19 0.1uF
C20 100p
C21 100p

D1 1N4148
D2 1N4148
D3 1N4148
D4 1N4148
D5 1N4148

IC2 LM339
IC3 TL071
IC4 CD4069
U2 TL074
U3 TL074
U4 TL072


LED1 -red
LED2 -red

Q1 2N3904
Q2 2N3904
TR1 2N3904
TR2 2N3904
TR5 2N3904


R 10K
R1 820R
R2 100K
R3 22K
R4 100K
R5 100K
R6 150K
R7 2.7K
R8 4.7K
R9 10K
R10 10K
R11 2.7K
R12 47K
R13 22K
R14 47K
R15 22K
R16 220K
R17 2.2M
R18 1K - Surface Mount tempco in Mouser cart
R19 100K
R20 680R
R21 3.3K
R22 4.7K
R23 22K
R24 100K
R25 100K
R26 15K
R27 10K
R28 10K
R29 220K
R30 1K
R31 10K
R32 4.7K
R33 10K
R34 100K
R35 2.7K
R36 470R
R37 10K
R38 11k
R39 10K
R40 2.7K
R41 2K
R42 2K
R43 2K
R44 2K
R45 2K
R46 2.7K
R47 22K
R48 1K
R49 220K
R50 10K
R51 2.2K
R52 2K
R53 1M
R54 43.2K
R55 680R
R56 1K
R57 200K
R58 10K
R59 7.5k
R60 100R
R61 2M
R62 4.7K
R63 6.2K
R64 2.7k
bunkerspreckles
Wow thanks Les Savy Fav! applause
This will save me a lot of time
I just got the PCB and pots kit in the mail.

I am wondering, tho, and will look into it more,
but am asking just in case you might know -
Is the build the same as far as parts goes (except the doepfer cable)
if I intend to run this on a 15V system?

Cheers
Matt
lessavyfav
Not sure about 15v. I PM-ed EAS about the thread so hopefully he will check in.

Glad I can help. I've mooched so much documentation so often it is a pleasure if I can help out! Also was rushing to build before my 2600 PCBs arrive ;-)
woodster
lessavyfav, many thanks for this, much appreciated. thumbs up
E.A.S.
15v will work just fine. there are a couple resistors that could be changed, but not absolutely necessary. shortly i'll post some resistor options regarding powering from 15.

-M

tim, you're awesome.
ablearcher
there are two back ordered resistors in that bom, I picked these two instead:

for the six 2.7k resistors
Mouser Part #: 71-RL07S-G-2.7K

for the one 43.2k resistor
Mouser Part #: 71-CMF5543K200FHEK

both vishay dale metal film through hole 6.1mm lead spacing 1/4W the first is 1% the second is 2%
apophis93
Right on, just got my Mindreader PCB and Pots in the mail… so ready to build. It's peanut butter jelly time!
raisinbag
Thanks Less!!!! That will be a major help dude!
ablearcher
P.S. Thanks for making the mouser cart! I've been really enjoying building modules lately, but putting together mouser orders is the worst very frustrating
Dogue
Thanks for compiling this list.

One question: what should the orientation of the transistors be? Since as we all know by now the pinouts can vary by manufacturer I want to be sure I'm installing the transistors correctly.
elmegil
Shouldn't there be a calibration for the log amp before you get to calibrating the entire thing?

I have mine set up so the V/Hz output is normalled to the Log Amp V/Hz input, so I can bypass the mindreader circuit output to calibrate directly. What I've observed is:

for 0V in to the log amp, I get -13.something V out, with no effect from the offset. Basically it's not quite at the negative rail (my -rail is -14.6V).

For 1V in I get output in the millivolt range and I can adjust it up or down from -380mV to 825mV.

For 2V in I get ~1V out, with a range from 570mV to 1.7V, which is basically the same swing.

For 4V in, I would expect to get twice what I get at 2V in, or ~2V out, and I'm close, but no cookie. If I set 2V in to be exactly 1V out, the best I can do for 4V in is 1.995V out. I expect I may need to check the tolerance on VR9 and swap it out for something that gives me a better max value, or else simply add a resistor in series with it.

Am I headed down the right path here?
diablojoy
Quote:
Right on, just got my Mindreader PCB and Pots in the mail… so ready to build.

ohh didnt know these were being mailed out yet hopefully mine is not too far away then.
lessavyfav
UpdAted post 1
apophis93
I noticed this error in the BOM:

Trimmers:
10KB x 3 VR1,3,9

Should be :

10KB x 3 VR1,4,9


------------

I am trying to figure out the value for the Cap above d3 and next to c4 (not c20). the screen print is the same size and shape as C13, 14

Also with C13,14 being electrolytic what is the orientation for -/+?



Cheers!
lessavyfav
Hanks- good eyes. I'm building maybe Monday (TTSH parts in transit ;-) maybe I'll have some insight. Notably I am more a question asker then answerer
apophis93
Any thoughts on this:

I am trying to figure out the value for the Cap above d3 and next to c4 (not c20). the screen print is the same size and shape as C13, 14

EDIT: Just the above question ^^

- Daniel
apophis93
More questions:

What is the unlabeled point on the front but the back has "Hz" ? Unsure of where this should connect, maybe need to look at old drawings.

Also ground, am I not seeing the pad?

Tried powering in current state which minus ground is 99% complete. and C14 just cooked. hmm
E.A.S.
apophis93 wrote:
More questions:

What is the unlabeled point on the front but the back has "Hz" ? Unsure of where this should connect, maybe need to look at old drawings.

Also ground, am I not seeing the pad?

Tried powering in current state which minus ground is 99% complete. and C14 just cooked. hmm


The "Hz" marked pad is an output, pre log amp. its the HZ/v output (put there as an 'extra') If you using the pitch to cv with v/oct oscillators, you probably wont need to hook up anything here at all. you could drive an ms10 or ms20 with it if you felt like it though.

Re: Ground, are you talking about power? pins 3,4,5,6,7,8 on 'J3'

There's also a ground connection at pin 4 on the connector for 'VR6'

-M
apophis93
How about the unlabeled capacitor?
apophis93
Well it appears to works sans the mystery cap.

Here is mine finished minus two sets or nuts and bolts to lock it down.

Need to trim it a bit per instructions but it is driving my oscillators…


Guinness ftw! Rockin' Banana! cheers
elmegil
I have a v1, which also had an unlabelled cap and instructions not to use it. Since it appeared to have a connection to V+ and Gnd, I just used that to feed my panel components with those values.
E.A.S.
apophis93 wrote:
Well it appears to works sans the mystery cap.

Here is mine finished minus two sets or nuts and bolts to lock it down.

Need to trim it a bit per instructions but it is driving my oscillators…


Guinness ftw! Rockin' Banana! cheers


Looks great!

The mystery cap is C19, a 0.1 uf bypass cap. Yeah, the board will work fine without it, it helps keep the rails clean.

-M
nathanxl
Received package here in Australia.

Noticed in Apophis 93 pic that there are little boards on the pots...
Were these an option?

Before I start, are there any issues if I convert all the jacks to bananas?
Cheers, cant wait to get to work.
E.A.S.
nathanxl wrote:
Received package here in Australia.

Noticed in Apophis 93 pic that there are little boards on the pots...
Were these an option?

Before I start, are there any issues if I convert all the jacks to bananas?
Cheers, cant wait to get to work.


The pot pcbs were made by Jason, aka negativspace.

I have a few extras, if you need some PM me.

Re: banana jacks, I dont see any issues using them with the mindreader.

-M
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7  Next [all]
Page 1 of 7
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group