Securing a PCB to a faceplate.

From circuitbending to homebrew stompboxes & synths, keep the DIY spirit alive!

Moderators: luketeaford, Joe., lisa, Kent

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Securing a PCB to a faceplate.

Post by Waz » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:42 pm

What do you guys do to secure PCBs perpendicular to the faceplate? I'm really at a loss with this one.
:despair:

*Edited to take horizontal mounting into consideration as well.
Last edited by Waz on Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Muff Wiggler
wait, what?
Posts: 7815
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:19 pm

Post by Muff Wiggler » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:48 pm

wee little L-shaped brackets

see here:

viewtopic.php?t=585

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Post by Waz » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:54 pm

Muff Wiggler
Are these easily obtainable from the hardware store?

User avatar
Muff Wiggler
wait, what?
Posts: 7815
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:19 pm

Post by Muff Wiggler » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:15 pm

yep, try the framing/hanging section

Image

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Post by Waz » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:21 pm

Thanks. I'm not a hardware store kinda guy, so I never thought of that. You saved me some serious cash though. I was going to buy the bridechamber ones.
:yay:

User avatar
Muff Wiggler
wait, what?
Posts: 7815
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:19 pm

Post by Muff Wiggler » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:29 pm

i've never bought anything like that, i have the biggest pile of 'random bits' all in a container, and somehow there's tons of those, been kicking around here for years, since way before i thought of making DIY modules!

User avatar
meridic
Common Wiggler
Posts: 202
Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:55 am
Location: frozen depths of nowhere

Post by meridic » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:52 pm

I bend a piece of thin aluminum into an L shape. I make it so it is about 1" smaller then the hieght of the face plate. The face plate side of the L is long enough to go under the the pots/jacks on one side and is drilled so it has corresponding holes for the pots/jacks. The other side of the L is long enough to accomedate the PCB + the pots/jacks, The PCB mounts onto that part of the L with standoffs. This way the jacks/pots afix the bracket and the PCB to the panel with no extra holes and no screws are needed or visable on the front panel.

User avatar
consumed
International Filter Conspiracy
Posts: 3700
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 1:38 pm
Location: nor cal

Post by consumed » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:52 pm

i had trouble finding tiny little brackets with 4-40 threading so i ordered from mcmaster.com
you can also find a great assortment of threaded standoffs there if you want to set your pcb back a bit
ultimately i ended up switching to 1" 1/16" aluminum L-bracket to mount the pcb (found it at lowes hardware store)
the L-bracket works great if you have pots on the board, as those are deep enough to mount onto
its more work but you dont end up with screws in the front panel.

userpix/57_topp281fin1_1.jpg
userpix/57_topp281fin2_1.jpg

User avatar
pugix
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3423
Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:23 am
Location: Asheville, NC
Contact:

Post by pugix » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:57 pm

I think this is one answer to your question. Pardon me, if I didn't understand.

I often use Bridechamber brackets for DIY projects (and before that, the similar Stooge brackets). The idea is that pots or jacks on the panel mount through the front part of the bracket, securing it to the panel at the same time, and the PC board mounts on standoffs to the bracket sticking out the back. Example:

http://pugix.com/synth/resonant-lopass-gate/

This is nice and sturdy, and there aren't any screws showing on the front panel. The depth of the bracket is usually determined by the size of the PC board. The deepest are some of the CGS boards. Example:

http://pugix.com/synth/dual-cgs-65-tube ... bral-gate/
Richard
https://www.pugix.com

"Everything in our world is actually always modulated by everything else." - Peter B

User avatar
sduck
experimental use of gravity
Posts: 13755
Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2009 6:03 pm
Location: Vortepexaion, TN, USA

Post by sduck » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:43 pm

:agree:

Like this-

Image
flickr cloud of sound touyube NOT A MODERATOR ANYMORE

User avatar
Muff Wiggler
wait, what?
Posts: 7815
Joined: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:19 pm

Post by Muff Wiggler » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:56 pm

that is a WAY better approach than my 'found' L-brackets

and no extra hole on the faceplate! :tu:

User avatar
valis
aliens killed bigfoot
Posts: 2130
Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:53 pm
Location: on the palouse, usa

Post by valis » Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:12 am

I just use the little Ls and drill a small hole in the panel. Here's what I use:

Mouser Part No: 534-621

User avatar
neandrewthal
full clout y'all
Posts: 3709
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:30 pm
Location: Spending warm summer days indoors writing frightening verse to a buck-toothed girl in Luxembourg

Post by neandrewthal » Sun Jan 17, 2010 1:18 am

I'm too cheap for the bridechamber stooge brackets too, so I make my own out of galvanized step flashing from Home Depot. It's really thin, but sturdy enough for me. It comes pre bent for $.99 per 10" or so sheet and it cuts easily with a pair of shears. It doesn't extend very far behind the panel, so you can't mount all 4 corners of the PCB to it like pugix and sduck do unless it's a pretty small PCB. I don't like doing that anyway because I prefer to do the wiring with the boards in place already.

Image
Initiate the sequence, create catastrophe.

User avatar
doctorvague
ole fuckity fuck
Posts: 3098
Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:40 pm
Location: New Mexico, USA

Post by doctorvague » Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:45 am

neandrewthal wrote:
Image

Whatever that module is, it looks like quite a project - YOW!!

User avatar
Dave Kendall
Set The Controls . . .
Posts: 1222
Joined: Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:20 am
Location: England

Post by Dave Kendall » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:59 am

Hi.

Similar to some other guys here, I use bits of 20mm x 20mm aluminium "L" angle from a hardware store. Comes in up to 2 metre lengths.

Pots go through the face on the panel, and the pot on its own is spaced with an M8 washer. When bigger boards are used, a longer (and bigger - 25x25 or 30x30mm) piece of L bracket is used, and cut away above the jacks to give clearance for them. M3 bolts, washers and nuts secure the PCB to the bracket.
Photo shows a CGS65 tube VCA in a 12HP euro rack. There's a DPDT toggle just behind the bracket.

The pots are rotated through 180 degrees, as they are Alpha-type with knurled shafts with a slot in them. This way, tightening the screw on a collet knob doesn't squash the two halves of the shaft together. The pot pins are bent back through 90 degrees.

Image

cheers,
Dave
(edited to make more sense, hopefully...)
Want to Buy: KURZWEIL KSP8

"Everything in moderation, including moderation"

User avatar
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 7824
Joined: Thu Jan 21, 2010 1:46 pm
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

Post by Dr. Sketch-n-Etch » Thu Jan 21, 2010 11:10 pm

I go to a place called "Metal Supermarket" and buy sheets of 1/32" stainless steel for my custom stooge brackets. I am lucky enough to work in a place with a machine shop, so I have access to all the tools I need: a pedal-operated guillotine with adjustable gate, a punch (looks like giant pliers from hell, with a selection of male and female punch bits in various sizes), a press (the hydraulic kind with the big "one-armed bandit" handle, with 90-degree-angle bending jigs), and a wire-wheel (for dressing and buffing sharp edges).

I punch 3/8" holes for the pot shafts (2 or 3, depending on the size of the board) and 1/8" holes for the PCB mounting screws. I typically leave 3/4" to 1" of clearance between the back of the pots (I invariably use 24mm Alpha pots from Small Bear) and the edge of the PCB. I can cut, punch, bend and buff a bracket in about 15 minutes. It's deeply satisfying! :loves:

Here's a couple of pix:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Post by Waz » Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:21 am

This thread is border-line "sticky" worthy

User avatar
bf
Buck Futter
Posts: 971
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:48 pm

Post by bf » Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:11 pm

I know that this is counter to the question of the op and not always an option depending on the size of the board, but as this thread is turning into a resource worthy one I figured I might as well add my parallel hack job in fwiw.
I prep spots a bit larger than the size of a standoff on the back of the panel and use a bit of JB weld. 1" standoffs give plenty of clearance for switches and pots.
Image
I only used three standoffs here, two being on the far side of the board.

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Post by Waz » Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:19 pm

bf
It's cool. I didn't realize this thread would become worthy of praise. I edited the main subject line to encompass all PCB mounting.
:sb:

User avatar
emdot_ambient
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3368
Joined: Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:40 am
Location: Frederick, Maryland USA

Post by emdot_ambient » Fri Jan 22, 2010 12:52 pm

This should definitely be stickied. I dread the HW side of DIY. Populating PCB's I actually find soothing, but all the HW chores...cutting, bending, drilling, assembling...are like nightmares waiting to happen.

User avatar
fonik
Super Deluxe Wiggler
Posts: 3314
Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 5:54 am
Location: Germany
Contact:

Post by fonik » Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:28 pm

i make myself brackets from steelsheets too, and mount them using the jack sockets or potentiometers, as seen on al these nice pix above. what i like about it is that you don't see mounting screws ont he front.

for completness: i know that some guys use 2-component glue to mount standoffs to the aluminium panel. anyone?
Big Boss at fonitronik.de
Tech Buddy at Random*Source/Serge

User avatar
bf
Buck Futter
Posts: 971
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:48 pm

Post by bf » Fri Jan 22, 2010 2:43 pm

fonik wrote:for completness: i know that some guys use 2-component glue to mount standoffs to the aluminium panel. anyone?
That is essential what my example is, although using an epoxy rather than a glue.

User avatar
zthee
Panelhöna
Posts: 1642
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 3:39 am
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

Post by zthee » Fri Jan 22, 2010 2:48 pm

This is the way I like to do it.

Not mine on the picture though - http://icb.se/araya/pics/sergepics/serge_open_big.jpg
No PM's please! Send an e-mail - ttsh(a)thehumancomparator.net

Information regarding the Two Thousand Six Hundred DIY project - > http://www.thehumancomparator.net

_

"Oh Batman, why you got to be so heteronormative?".

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Post by Waz » Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:00 pm

fonik wrote:i make myself brackets from steelsheets too, and mount them using the jack sockets or potentiometers, as seen on al these nice pix above. what i like about it is that you don't see mounting screws ont he front.

for completness: i know that some guys use 2-component glue to mount standoffs to the aluminium panel. anyone?
My dad suggested I should just glue the PCB to the panel via hot glue. I opted out of that. He's a big DIYer, but isn't into the aesthetics of it

User avatar
Waz
Wiggling with Scurvy
Posts: 2746
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:36 pm
Location: Detroit

Post by Waz » Fri Jan 22, 2010 3:02 pm

zthee wrote:This is the way I like to do it.

Not mine on the picture though - http://icb.se/araya/pics/sergepics/serge_open_big.jpg
That is quite intimidating. Makes my hair fall out just thinking about building something like that.

Post Reply

Return to “Music Tech DIY”