Bustin my Blacet Cherry

Blacet, Metalbox, Synthasonic, PAiA and the rest.... a frac frenzy!

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pristak
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Bustin my Blacet Cherry

Post by pristak » Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:35 pm

Well I was busy bustin my Blacet Cherry tonight. I started populating the board on my Scanner kit. It looked hard, but so far it is easier than I thought. I got all the resisters in and the jacks. I was about to start on the diodes when the kids got home and I decided it was best to put it up for the night rather than be distracted.

Looks like I'll need a frac power supply and rack sooner than I thought.

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Kwote
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Re: Bustin my Blacet Cherry

Post by Kwote » Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:37 pm

pristak wrote:Well I was busy bustin my Blacet Cherry tonight. I started populating the board on my Scanner kit. It looked hard, but so far it is easier than I thought. I got all the resisters in and the jacks. I was about to start on the diodes when the kids got home and I decided it was best to put it up for the night rather than be distracted.

Looks like I'll need a frac power supply and rack sooner than I thought.
i hope you washed the board.
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pristak
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Post by pristak » Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:20 am

I did, but I didn't have an old toothbrush around to use on it. I had to just let the warm water rinse it when I was done for the night.

Should that be enough? What problem should I look for?

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Post by Kwote » Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:25 am

pristak wrote:I did, but I didn't have an old toothbrush around to use on it. I had to just let the warm water rinse it when I was done for the night.

Should that be enough? What problem should I look for?
no. that's not enough actually. hopefully since you didn't solder much it won't be an issue. you need the toothbrush to scrub the flux out.

you have to keep scrubbing and rinsing until all the flux is gone. you will see a lot of tiny sudsy lookin bubbles. keep going on either side of the board until no more bubbles show up.

it's all in every blacet manual. John is very meticulous and gives very detailed directions. you just have to read carefully so you don't miss it all.

anyways, i haven't built the scanner but all of their half space modules should be the easiest of their kits to build. i personally started out on the dual linear vca(another half space module).
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haricots
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Post by haricots » Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:31 am

is it necessary to wash the board if you've used 'no-clean' solder for the whole project?

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Post by Kwote » Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:34 am

haricots wrote:is it necessary to wash the board if you've used 'no-clean' solder for the whole project?
no. you can't really. that's why it's called no clean. but i wouldn't recommend that.

i only use no clean for the pots and wiring.

see the thing is solder tends to kinda splatter just a teeny bit. i don't know if functionality would be compromised but it just doesn't look professional. using the no clean and scrubbing the board makes it look very nice and smooth and give me less worry about solder shorting something out.
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Post by pristak » Wed Jul 09, 2008 6:48 pm

Is Clear Flux Solder the same as No Clean?

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Post by pristak » Wed Jul 09, 2008 6:52 pm

I'm now leaning toward not the same...

This Clear Flux stuff looked the most like a No Clean my Rat shack had.

Looks like I'll need to place an order for some better solder to do the final steps.

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Post by Kwote » Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:48 pm

get these from mouser.com:

24-6337-6401 (1 LB) Kester Solder 63/37 .020 1#SPL $20.79
24-6337-8800 (1 LB) Kester Solder 63/37 .031 1#SPL $14.07

prices have gone up across the market but these are what Blacet recommends and they get the job done well.

331 is clean. 245 is no clean.
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Post by pristak » Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:13 pm

Thanks for the help Kwote!!!

I finished populating the board. And washed it using and old toothbrush. Now I have to wait to get some No Clean.

I just ordered those 2 items. They sure have doubled in price from what you posted. Hopefully I didn't do any damage with my Rat Shack Special solder.

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Post by Kwote » Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:28 pm

pristak wrote:Thanks for the help Kwote!!!

I finished populating the board. And washed it using and old toothbrush. Now I have to wait to get some No Clean.

I just ordered those 2 items. They sure have doubled in price from what you posted. Hopefully I didn't do any damage with my Rat Shack Special solder.
i know i hate that price. fortunately you can do a lot with just those two spools. i've built two modules and barely scratched the surface. got a lot more to go but i'm dreading the time that i'll have to get more.

from what i've heard it'll go up a lot more so i may just get some before i even need it. thank you .. ahem.. i mean fuck you RoHS

i'm becoming less and less of a rat shack fan since my $30 dmm started sucking ass. oh well. i wouldn't worry about it.

their solder and solder gun is probably passable but i took the advice of folks on here and went straight for the good stuff.

what kind of soldering iron do you have??
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Post by pristak » Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:35 pm

I have a Rat Shack 20/40 watt station. It was amongst a bunch of electronic stuff I got from my dad's estate. Out of the box, but it looked like it hadn't been used. I need to upgrade, but it worked fine for this project. I tried to buy new tips for it today, but my local Rat is out.

I've heard good things about Weller soldering irons. After another project or 2 that may be in the cards.

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Post by Kwote » Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:59 pm

check this list if you haven't:

http://kwotemusic.blogspot.com/2008/04/ ... trade.html

i compiled it based off of advice from the homie's.

all tools have worked out well so far.

i especially like my Weller.
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Post by pristak » Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:09 pm

Damn!!!

I didn't know Mouser was in the next town over from me. I just wish they had a storefront. I called. They don't. In a way, it sucks because I have to pay sales tax. My shipping should be very quick though.

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Post by plord » Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:34 pm

I had more damned trouble with my Rat Shack iron and solder than I can even talk about. I couldn't even make a stable mult! It was pure shit!

I went Weller WCTP and Kester 331/245 and haven't had a bad joint since. A good iron should be tool purchase #1!

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Post by Cybananna » Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:06 pm

plord wrote:I had more damned trouble with my Rat Shack iron and solder than I can even talk about. I couldn't even make a stable mult! It was pure shit!

I went Weller WCTP and Kester 331/245 and haven't had a bad joint since. A good iron should be tool purchase #1!
Same here. I HATED DIY stuff with my radio shack iron and solder. I got the stuff recommended from Kwote and It's fun and easy. I love it now. It really is worth the money to pick up a nice weller WCTP and get the kester solder. yea, they're expensive but make up for it in lack of frustration.

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Post by Kwote » Thu Jul 10, 2008 11:06 pm

fortunately i had the guidance of consumed and plord and made good choices right off the bat.

it's really why i decided to start the DIY blog. even though i'm a beginner i think it's useful for others that are getting into DIY to have an easy to navigate source with the goods on it.

saves people the trouble of having to ask a bunch of questions and do hella thread searches. real happy it's helped people.
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Post by pristak » Sat Jul 12, 2008 8:54 pm

Got the better clean solder. The no clean is on back order with no ETA yet. Damn.

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Post by Kwote » Sun Jul 13, 2008 2:33 am

pristak wrote:Got the better clean solder. The no clean is on back order with no ETA yet. Damn.
it'll be worth the wait. you might wanna bide your time with some blacet power cables. it's a good project for getting more at home with wires and especially if you plan on diying non blacet stuff as those projects won't provide a power cable.

in fact i felt the wire issue less of a pain the last time i built a module just because i spent a lot of time stripping the power wires. it's only 22 bucks or something for 18 feet of cable etc. unless of course you don't have the crimping tool, as you'll need that too.
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Post by pristak » Wed Aug 06, 2008 6:58 pm

Well, it failed test #2. I have +15v power in the spot I'm supposed to test, but no -15v power in the spot I'm supposed to test for that.

I emailed blacet a few minutes ago. Now I wait...

Frustrating, but I don't have a rack yet anyway so I won't really be able to use it. Just got the power supply to test with as I couldn't afford more than that right now.

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Post by Kwote » Wed Aug 06, 2008 8:46 pm

pristak wrote:Well, it failed test #2. I have +15v power in the spot I'm supposed to test, but no -15v power in the spot I'm supposed to test for that.

I emailed blacet a few minutes ago. Now I wait...

Frustrating, but I don't have a rack yet anyway so I won't really be able to use it. Just got the power supply to test with as I couldn't afford more than that right now.
you may be okay. i had trouble getting readings on my DMM but no trouble with my modules. the main thing is to make sure it's not overheating or smelling funny. then there's a problem. but you're probably smart to wait for the rack. the scanner module is a bit of a weird one. the first time i used it i didn't really get it. you can test it manually but without any other voltage source you won't be able to get it to scan on it's own. if you do have other non frac modules that can drive it make sure the cv is really really low. i think it's like 1v to 3v max.
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Post by pristak » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:07 pm

It works!!!

Blacet emailed me back and said I probably had the neg diode in backwards. I looked at it as the source of the problem already, but I had thought both diodes were oriented the same way. NOPE!!! I took another look at the PCB behind the diode and it was supposed to be oriented opposite.

So, now it works. I just need to do some trim pot adjustments, but that can wait. I manual scanned the 3 oscillator waveforms from my old PAIA and it scanned between them. Just had a lot of dead space at either end of the pots range.

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Post by Kwote » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:22 pm

pristak wrote:It works!!!

Blacet emailed me back and said I probably had the neg diode in backwards. I looked at it as the source of the problem already, but I had thought both diodes were oriented the same way. NOPE!!! I took another look at the PCB behind the diode and it was supposed to be oriented opposite.

So, now it works. I just need to do some trim pot adjustments, but that can wait. I manual scanned the 3 oscillator waveforms from my old PAIA and it scanned between them. Just had a lot of dead space at either end of the pots range.
yeah. orientation is very important. how'd you fix it? reheat and pull? fortunately i haven't had a bad component or mistake yet but i'm guessing if i do i won't be as lucky as you.
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Post by pristak » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:31 pm

I used a solder braid to remove all the solder I could. Then, yes I reheated and pulled. I used a table mounted vise to hold it by the face plate and heated the solder from one side and pulled with needle nose pliers from the other. Then I used a solder braid to remove more solder from the holes to make it easier to put it back through. It wasn't easy to get the short stubby legs back through, but I did it.

Shit... I just realized I need to wash the board again after using regular solder again don't I???

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Post by Kwote » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:42 pm

i guess so but be super careful since you have your pots, etc. mounted on there.

i got a solder sucker and i've heard it'll just destroy the part. i gotta look into this braid thing. i don't have one.
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