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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Edit: Euro PSU all setup! Now with pics.
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules  
Author Edit: Euro PSU all setup! Now with pics.
Muff Wiggler
wow, i'm SO freakin' confused right now lol

ok, so I just received this:



It provides 3amps at +/-15v, or 3.4amps at +/-12v. I got it for my eurorack setup (thanks Felix!) and obviously want to run it in 12v mode.

I thought it was gonna be a bit more straightforward....

so, anyway, here's the back of the thing:



Now, it immediately poses some questions for me -

1) I need to make sure it's configured for the proper input voltage, which I assume is 120v. There's a chart on the front about this, but I cannot figure out what to do with the information in that chart.

2) I need to connect my Doepfer busboards to the outputs of this. I didn't even know where at first, but on closer inspection, I guess I have to hookup to the posts marked +out, -out and COM, ignoring the 5v and 5v return stuff. This seems pretty straightforward to me, but I want to check to be sure. Also the PSU has these post things, while the Doepfer busboard wires are of course those slip-on connectors. Is it safe to just solder one to a post? I'm betting not, but I'd do it if informed people think it's OK.

3) I need to make sure it's configured for 12v output, and not 15v. It came with a printout testing sheet, and that appears that it was tested at 15v, so I assume it's still configured for that.

4) Finally, I need to run AC power into it. I have an AC power cord from computer supplies at work. I'm not sure where to hook it up, but I assume three of the transformer-mounted pins, but i'm not sure if this is even right, and I'm not sure which three of the five pins to use.

Also, again, I assume NOT, but is it safe to cut and strip wire from the end of the AC power cord, and just solder it to these lugs??? Seems wrong to me.

Now, I remember hearing that people put a fuse in between the AC cable and PSU. is this needed? what sort of fuse? where do you get it? can anyone show pics of what they did?

I sort of anticipated this part, so I disassembled an old computer PSU to salvage the AC inlet port. It has that little slidey 115/220v selector, so I assume that may be my fuse. I assumed the back of the inlet plug would have three lugs I would just wire to the three input lugs on my PSU. Wrong again! The salvaged power inlet has all sorts of strange stuff coming off it. Here's the two parts I salvaged:



does anyone have a clue what I should do next? any advice or help would be GREATLY appreciated, and I know you guys have skinned this cat before... maybe some pics or something?

as you can tell i'm a total PSU idiot. I've been spoiled by John's plug-n-play PS500s.

thanks oops
Muff Wiggler
looking at the chart on the front, and the numbered lugs on the transformer, here's a more refined guess:

to use it with 120v input, I need to jumper lugs 1 and 3 together, and lugs 2 and 4 together. I assume by simply soldering a wire between them. And I need to apply the incoming power to the 1 and the 4 lugs. Does it matter which side is which?

And my other guess from that chart is that in this config, I need to put a 2.0A external fuse in front of it.

If this is all true, my only questions become -

what do i do about the fuse?

how do I connect the busboard wires to those posts?

how do I set the thing for 12v and not 15v?

thanks again.
Muff Wiggler
ok, here's the manual for the PSU -

http://www.condordcpower.com/public/condor/install_instr/IINTLinears.p df

I think i've figured out everything except one thing - i CANNOT figure out how to set the supply to output 12v. It's definately set for 15 right now - and nowhere in the manual is it mentioned what to do.

Is it possible that I change the output level by adjusting the trimmer and measuring with my DMM?
flts
1) I would probably buy one of those AC inlets with integral snap-in fuse slots, they're quite convenient... Like this: http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p997_Power-jack-with-fus e-holder--snap-in.html. You can find them pretty easily and for cheap at any electronics-related shop I'd wager. Get something like a 2 amp slowblow fuse (T type) of correct physical size to go with it.

2) You're correct in the AC hookup: jumper the pins 1 + 3 and 2 + 4 together and connect the two cables from AC inlet to the pins 1 and 4 (no matter which side to which one). Also, yeah, on the DC side just +-OUT and COM to the bus board. You can just cut off the slip-on connector and solder to the posts, I'd add some kind of heat shrink sleeve or something around the connections just to be on the safe side.

3) I would guess it has some kind of somewhat variable voltage regulators (such as LM317 and LM337) so that you could adjust the voltage down to +-12V with a pair of voltage-setting trimmers. As how to adjust it with that particular PSU, I don't know, but you can definitely measure the output voltage with a DMM from the DC output as you're adjusting.

4) I'm no electronics expert although I've had my fair share of 220V shocks, so take the previous points with a grain of salt.
Muff Wiggler
flts wrote:
1) I would probably buy one of those AC inlets with integral snap-in fuse slots, they're quite convenient... Like this: http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p997_Power-jack-with-fus e-holder--snap-in.html. You can find them pretty easily and for cheap at any electronics-related shop I'd wager. Get something like a 2 amp slowblow fuse (T type) of correct physical size to go with it.

2) You're correct in the AC hookup: jumper the pins 1 + 3 and 2 + 4 together and connect the two cables from AC inlet to the pins 1 and 4 (no matter which side to which one). Also, yeah, on the DC side just +-OUT and COM to the bus board. You can just cut off the slip-on connector and solder to the posts, I'd add some kind of heat shrink sleeve or something around the connections just to be on the safe side.

3) I would guess it has some kind of somewhat variable voltage regulators (such as LM317 and LM337) so that you could adjust the voltage down to +-12V with a pair of voltage-setting trimmers. As how to adjust it with that particular PSU, I don't know, but you can definitely measure the output voltage with a DMM from the DC output as you're adjusting.

4) I'm no electronics expert although I've had my fair share of 220V shocks, so take the previous points with a grain of salt.



perfect - thanks SO MUCH! that awesome info and pretty much validates everything I think I figured out so far. thanks for the tip on the inlet socket with the drawer - i've heard descriptions before but the pic at the link you provided really helped. I'll pick one up tomorrow and I should be all set - do the rest of the wiring tomorrow night.

I think it will be pretty easy to set the voltage down - there's a master trimmer and two 'limit' trimmers, i figure I'll measure the outs with my DMM and trim down the master, hopefully that'll get me there.

thanks so much, between this and some advice consumed gave me, i fell like the clouds have pretty much lifted now. hopefully things will go smoothly tomorrow. 8)

cheers, thanks again
Muff Wiggler
it's alive!!! 8)
flts
w00t Guinness ftw! w00t
Muff Wiggler
ok, a big thanks again to everyone who helped, offered advice etc. It's all working! Here's my PSU setup pic....



the stupid ghetto fuse holder I picked up was too long for the fuse, the springs weren't long enough or something. So i had to mash it all together and coat it in hot glue gun glue - but it's solid now and passed the DMM test, and everything's working, so yay

pretty much hacked together, but its solid, works and I have 3400ma to work with now!! SlayerBadger!
Muff Wiggler
ps there are no jumpers to configure voltage with this PSU - I had to trim it down to 12v (from 15v) using two onboard trimmers. No problems.
Kwote
Muff Wiggler wrote:
ps there are no jumpers to configure voltage with this PSU - I had to trim it down to 12v (from 15v) using two onboard trimmers. No problems.


3400ma? nice. so if it's originallly configured for 15v wouldn't you say it's a good cheaper power solution for frac? or no?
Muff Wiggler
well at 15v it'll give you 3000ma, still really sweet

i think these PSUs are close to $200 new though - and you have to DIY up the inlet, fuse and make sure you jumper it properly. So if that stuff is even a little scary to you, the PS500 is a way better choice.

but ma-per-dollar, oh yeah something like this or a PowerOne is a way better value than a PS500
Kwote
Muff Wiggler wrote:
well at 15v it'll give you 3000ma, still really sweet

i think these PSUs are close to $200 new though - and you have to DIY up the inlet, fuse and make sure you jumper it properly. So if that stuff is even a little scary to you, the PS500 is a way better choice.

but ma-per-dollar, oh yeah something like this or a PowerOne is a way better value than a PS500


if you can do it i can do it thumbs up

so what's your plans muff? you gonna replace your PS500's with a few of these or just stay as is?
felix
w00t w00t w00t w00t w00t
nanners nanners nanners nanners nanners
Dono-Kun Dance Dono-Kun Dance Dono-Kun Dance Dono-Kun Dance Dono-Kun Dance

Bananallama!
Muff Wiggler
Kwote wrote:
Muff Wiggler wrote:
well at 15v it'll give you 3000ma, still really sweet

i think these PSUs are close to $200 new though - and you have to DIY up the inlet, fuse and make sure you jumper it properly. So if that stuff is even a little scary to you, the PS500 is a way better choice.

but ma-per-dollar, oh yeah something like this or a PowerOne is a way better value than a PS500


if you can do it i can do it thumbs up

so what's your plans muff? you gonna replace your PS500's with a few of these or just stay as is?


i think because of the multiple towers I'll keep going with PS500s for Frac stuff... such a solid supply. If I was putting all my stuff into a single giant enclosure I would certainly look at replacing them with a big PowerOne, but at $100 a pop and plug-n-play, I'm sticking with PS500s for Frac stuff....

for Euro, this stuff is WAY better than paying $450 per rack though
Kwote
Muff Wiggler wrote:
Kwote wrote:
Muff Wiggler wrote:
well at 15v it'll give you 3000ma, still really sweet

i think these PSUs are close to $200 new though - and you have to DIY up the inlet, fuse and make sure you jumper it properly. So if that stuff is even a little scary to you, the PS500 is a way better choice.

but ma-per-dollar, oh yeah something like this or a PowerOne is a way better value than a PS500


if you can do it i can do it thumbs up

so what's your plans muff? you gonna replace your PS500's with a few of these or just stay as is?


i think because of the multiple towers I'll keep going with PS500s for Frac stuff... such a solid supply. If I was putting all my stuff into a single giant enclosure I would certainly look at replacing them with a big PowerOne, but at $100 a pop and plug-n-play, I'm sticking with PS500s for Frac stuff....

for Euro, this stuff is WAY better than paying $450 per rack though


yeah. i was thinking the same overall. although i'd love to save some cash but i have and will continue to have a lot of my stuff in seperate racks. but i'd atleast like to shave some points off the frac. i'm gonna grab some of those PS500 PCB's and see what kind of hope i have for DIY with em.
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