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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Favourite Stripboard Layouts?
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Favourite Stripboard Layouts?
kalda341
What are everyone's favourite stripboard layouts? I've build quite a few already, now I feel I'm up for anything. Preferably nothing that uses more that 19 strips, but I can always modify the layouts to fit.
drip.feed
Take a cruise through here. thumbs up

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=948417
Starspawn
What are you looking for?
Most things up to a 5-6 ICs are good for stripboards.
Biggest Ive made a layout for myself is the Benjolin, and biggest Im currently making is the soundlab+

But I like smaller circuits you can combine.
Logic, Trigger Delays, Gated Slews and so on.
OrganFixer
I've only done a few but I find I really enjoy the process. So far I have stripboarded the MFOS power supply and a spring reverb circuit to take advantage of a reverb tank I had around. I'm thinking of trying the j haible polymoog resonator next.
snaper
I've got a lot, filled more than 84HP with those, PM me if you interested.
Roglok also did very very nice layouts.

And do not forget to check my good friends, Niklas' website for stripboard layouts :

http://familjenronnberg.se/~niklas/diy.php

There are many layouts on EM too.
roglok
oh, you remind me of the stripboard tutorial i have in the pipeline. hopefully i'll find some time over the holiday season...

Starspawn posted some great, compact layouts recently...
snaper
roglok wrote:
oh, you remind me of the stripboard tutorial i have in the pipeline. hopefully i'll find some time over the holiday season...


I hope grin
fuzzbass
What are folks using to diagram their layouts? I notice many of those posted appear to be from the same app. Thanks,
roglok
fuzzbass wrote:
What are folks using to diagram their layouts? I notice many of those posted appear to be from the same app. Thanks,


DIYLC https://code.google.com/p/diy-layout-creator/downloads/list
khakifridge
I've been using DIYLC (DIY Layout Creator) for ages. Java app, so works almost everywhere.

Edit: is there an echo in here? wink
fuzzbass
Thanks roglok. It came with a little veroboard that looks about right for a stompbox. Do I need to use the API if I want a larger one?
Starspawn
Just stretch in corners.
Right click and edit on objects for changing values, names, look (for things like pots and trimmers, and on IC HSL transparancy.
And after you adjust sizes of diodes, resistors and such to taste, check the box after the size so it stays that way when you create new ones.
fuzzbass
Starspawn wrote:
Just stretch in corners.
Right click and edit on objects for changing values, names, look (for things like pots and trimmers, and on IC HSL transparancy.
And after you adjust sizes of diodes, resistors and such to taste, check the box after the size so it stays that way when you create new ones.


And off I go. Thank you!
fuzzbass
Ok here is my contribution. This is a Ken Stone thing. He discontinued the PCBs, so I did a stripboard layout for EURO power. I changed the components to be mostly stuff you already have in your bin. This is a relay activated power supply delay. Over to Ken:

"Due to rather heavy usage of bypass capacitors in the synth and diy scene (a good thing) some shortcomings of commercial power supplies have come to light. The most frequent is the failure of one or both power rails to come up at power-on, caused by the initial demand of all the bypass capacitors. The power supplies sense this as an overload and shut down.

If modules were brought on-line in groups instead of all at once, the power-up surges would be limited to what the power supply can handle. Of course, once a group of modules has started, its current demands are less, allowing ample capacity for the supply to start another group of modules. "

This won't help you if you are just flat out oversubscribed on your PSU, and it won't make your PSU magically drive Metasonix modules. It will help you if your ambient load is fine, but your power-on load is not.

So the idea here is to identify the modules that have the most uF, and move them to this board. For example, compound modules built from multiple standalone PCBs, like West Coast Mini Synth, Modules with 220uF caps, etc.

The trimmer adjusts delay time from <1s to ~9s. I have added an LM7805 to generate 5V. There are also indicator LEDs for each output rail. The relay is rated 1A, but you should probably stay at or below 600mA.

I used plain old red LEDs. If you use bright ones, you will need to change the limiting resistors. As a starting point, multiply them by ten.

Look carefully. There are two trace cuts lurking under the trimmer. LED 1 is flipped over with respect to the other two.

This uses some power, here are the specs
-12v - negligible

-Basic function
+12v 38mA

With LEDs and associated resistors
+12v 44mA

With LEDs and LM7805
+12v 54mA

You can daisy chain this off your existing power bus (non-ideal) or use the screw terminals and tie it to your star power (better).

You don't need to include the LEDs, when installing it you can adjust the delay and listen for the relay to close. 12 O'clock on the trimmer is about two seconds, which is reasonable.

Edit: the only part not clearly identified is the screw terminal block. I got mine from Jameco, but it similar to this mouser part:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/282857-2/?qs=s GAEpiMZZMsntO7gZZwOWJ6cDTr%252blTuLvjyliQSV1Mw%3d

Starspawn
Nice, very usefull, Ive got that problem in a Paia9700, not to worried there, but I suspect Ill encounter it more with my next box so ill include this if space allows.
Heres a Thierrymin as thanks smile
http://thereminworld.com/Forums/T/29231/my-new-year-gift-to-tw


3pf can be 3.3, 820uh inductors up to 1mh, I just went with what tayda had and it worked.
Got 4-22pf from here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150999975705?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&va r=450156088676&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

wackelpeter
I don't have a special favourite layout as i do everything on stripboard.

It's of course a lot of soldering, drilling and wiring, which can get messy sometimes, but when you have a working module it's worth all the hassle.

When i start to solder i don't create layouts beforehand, only estimate roughly hwo much space i need and then go on going my way through the printed schematic and marking each component and connection i've made.

After several stripboards and in the start the usual mistakes you get some routine and things go easier along.

Some things concerning stripboards that may be useful.
First try to keep the rails for in and output as short as possible. For exmaple when you have your input via resistor placed into the circuit, then cut/drill the rail on the side that is floating/not connected to anything else.
This helps minimizing crosstalk. But do that when your readly with all your soldering and you know your module works. Also grounding spare unused rails inbetween the used rails is useful, to reduce inductive effects and crosstalk.

Even for stripboard builds use decoupling for the IC's and for power rails R or Bead/Electrolyte combination. Use the latter for each module on a striboard if more share one board, at least when they are active audio modules like VCF, VCO or VCA otherwise you run into the risk of having bleedthrough noises.
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