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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

big ass seq switch panel
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  

What do you think of this panel?
I think that will work out juuuuust fine.
27%
 27%  [ 3 ]
I think that will be way too cramped to be functional.
9%
 9%  [ 1 ]
I think you are insane, and/or wiring up that panel will make you insane.
27%
 27%  [ 3 ]
Dancing Banana!
36%
 36%  [ 4 ]
Total Votes : 11

Author big ass seq switch panel
plord
Here is the working panel design for the quad sequential switch. The SS PCBs are skinny, I'm going to mount them horizontally behind each of the sequence length knobs dead center and run wires out to both sides. I couldn't make it work dead vertical, so the LED (above) and input jack (below) are to the right of each pot for the sequencer.

What do you think?

The one change I am 80% confident I will make is, I'm going to change the order of the right hand side controls. The plan is to put the output jack on the left, mid-panel, where it will be easier to connect to various modules, and to move the reset button and direction switch over to the right hand edge, where they are less likely to be covered up in the tangle of patchcords.

This panel will consume an entire PS500 to itself eek!

Full size image here: http://www.there.org/music/SSQ.JPG or this hopefully legible thumbn...uh, handprint.

tragedybysyntax
that is f'ng badass! I had thought about building 2 of them in a panel for my frac but that 4 ss's in a 19" rack is AMAZING!! Make sure you keep notes on it and show us updates if you decide to pull the trigger. smile
plord
When I built my Wiard 300 format Miniwaves, I spent...I spent a LOT. I had a gorgeous panel come in with all the eagles engraved and everything, and behind the panel, it was tighter than a japanese subway car during rush hour. It wouldn't work. Expensive mistakes.

I've been printing out this one, full size, and laying out all the panel components on it (same for my Klee panel) to make sure. This is, roughly, revision 17 smile I will keep y'all posted. I can imagine an elegant wiring harness for everything, but I'm not sure I have the patience to pull it off.
felix
There was no 'all of the above' so I voted that it will be just fine, I have no doubt that it will.

I do think that wiring that thing up will make you insane, though.

And Dancing Banana! It's peanut butter jelly time!
Kwote
hey Paul. looks excellent. i voted work out juuuust fine. i figure if you've been as meticulous as i know you have you've got your vision in line with reality.

can't wait til this thing is wired up and kickin MAJOR ass.

quick question, i'm working out a 19" mult panel and i couldn't figure the shape and placement of the mounting holes. did you import the oval drill holes?
Liquidcolor
Are you sure you want to place the jacks with the pots on the left side ? It would seem things could get a might cramped when cables are plugged in.
Kwote
Liquidcolor wrote:
Are you sure you want to place the jacks with the pots on the left side ? It would seem things could get a might cramped when cables are plugged in.


that is interesting. i didn't even notice that. i think i'd just be confused as it seems every module i've ever messed with has the jacks on the left and pots on the right.

i just like uniformity with my entire system so i'll 2nd Liquidcolor's concern.
futuresoundsystems
You'll go insane wiring that. Major good luck to you, you'll need it. lol
plord
Kwote wrote:
quick question, i'm working out a 19" mult panel and i couldn't figure the shape and placement of the mounting holes. did you import the oval drill holes?


In FPE, they're under the Insert menu. Insert->System Holes, then pick em. The program knows how many U your panel is and puts in the right ones.
plord
Liquidcolor wrote:
Are you sure you want to place the jacks with the pots on the left side ? It would seem things could get a might cramped when cables are plugged in.
Do you mean specifically the staggering on the left hand side?

On the left hand side, my theory is, I'm unlikely to be patching stuff into the inputs of all four SS at once. If I run Woggle audio outputs to the top SS, then the pots are all attenuators for volume, mostly set and forget. If I work "top down" I think I can get away with it, the lower SS, presumably used as more straightforward sequencers, will be relatively in the clear. Or so it seems to me when I'm laying out components on paper.

Are you suggesting I try to move all of the step input jacks over to the right hand side with the other jacks? That would be very dense but all the pots would be in the clear.
Liquidcolor
"Are you suggesting I try to move all of the step input jacks over to the right hand side with the other jacks?"

That's what I would do. Keep the step-in and out jacks on the right with the other jacks. A little like a 300 series on it's side.

Definitely looks like there's space enough.
plord
Liquidcolor wrote:
That's what I would do. Keep the step-in and out jacks on the right with the other jacks. A little like a 300 series on it's side.

Definitely looks like there's space enough.

Yeah, I think I can fit them in; just have to figure out if it's worth trying to cram in labels too, or just leave them hanging. Bonus: the 8 step input jacks will slot in between the 9 other elements on that side. AND I should be able to move the LEDs above the pots on the left side also.

Thanks!
Liquidcolor
You could use a smaller font and push the jacks closer to the legending. Especially if you're using the knurled nuts.

Is there a reason the step switches are from 0-10 ?

Another thought, If you added 1U you could keep the step I/O on the left but at the bottom.

Options, options.
plord
Liquidcolor wrote:
You could use a smaller font and push the jacks closer to the legending. Especially if you're using the knurled nuts.
Yep, I'll play with that next.
Quote:
Is there a reason the step switches are from 0-10 ?
Nope, I just forgot to fix it. I grabbed the only indexed rotary switch graphics I could find and haven't cleaned them up yet. It occurs to me that I am making a possibly poor assumption that the step degrees will line up with my switch. Have to check that one with a paper printout.
Quote:
Another thought, If you added 1U you could keep the step I/O on the left but at the bottom.
That's one option, but I'm trying to work within the space/case dimensions I have unless I absolutely have to change it. So, here's the latest iteration, pots and LEDS on the right, all jacks on the left. I'll have to give this one the paper-and-part-placement test when I get back home in a week smile

http://www.there.org/music/SSQ.JPG for the full version, or a snapshot:
Liquidcolor
"It occurs to me that I am making a possibly poor assumption that the step degrees will line up with my switch. Have to check that one with a paper printout."

Making your own tickmarks in FPD isn't hard, just annoying. There's no tool so you have to manually do it. Email me if you need further help on that.

Your rotary switches will likely be in increments of 15, 30 or 45 degrees. A quick check of the datasheet will confirm.

"So, here's the latest iteration, pots and LEDS on the right, all jacks on the left. "

Are you leaving off the stage gate outputs ?

A ring of LED's around each rotary switch would be cool.

I'm of the mind that each jack should have legending. But that might jack your cost up.
plord
Liquidcolor wrote:
Making your own tickmarks in FPD isn't hard, just annoying. There's no tool so you have to manually do it. Email me if you need further help on that.
Thanks, let me check the datasheet first and I may ping you.
Quote:
Are you leaving off the stage gate outputs ?
Yes, I had planned to. I have the frac SS you made me, plus the Gated Comparator (your work again), plus two Sequantizers to give per-step gate outs. I haven't yet found a need for all four smile

Although...we spoke at length previously about how the stage gates don't go low with the clock. So, if you mult them, you don't get steppy gates, you get one long gate. Could I take the stage gates off each board and just tie them together to one jack to output a fixed, repeating gate of N% of "one bar"? For instance, if all four SS are set to 8 steps, I could wire up 4 jacks that output a gate from step 1-4, 2-5, 3-6, and 4-8. Or whatever makes musical sense, maybe 1-4, 4-8, 1-6, and 7-8 allow for more useful variations. Then for the cost of only 4 more jacks, you can pull out 4 fixed gate patterns. No need to use mults, no need to make space for 32 more jacks on this panel!

And if you run the four sequences at different step lengths and clocks it could get crazy in a hurry smile
Quote:
A ring of LED's around each rotary switch would be cool.
Urgh, and require a daughterboard or something I imagine. Cool or not that's too insane even for me.
Quote:
I'm of the mind that each jack should have legending. But that might jack your cost up.
I think it gets pretty pricey. I also know I'm doing this one the stupid way so far; each number is a separate item and FPE calculates the cost of the cutter move for each one. I edited my Klee panel until I was blue in the face getting the text to run in complete rows or columns then lining up the jacks to shave pennies; this one has so many jacks I haven't even contemplated that yet.
wetterberg
a panel that size might warrant getting silkscreen kit, even! Schaeffer charges an absurd amount of money for their work, I'd hate to see you waste it on legending eek!

How about doing decals yourself?
Liquidcolor
"Could I take the stage gates off each board and just tie them together to one jack to output a fixed, repeating gate of N% of "one bar"? "

Yes, but you might get better performance if you use an op amp to mix and buffer the pulses. Perhaps tapped directly from the output of the 4051.
plord
Updated big ass Seq Switch panel design, with all labels and all jacks moved over per Michael's suggestion. I'm also using the big .5" momentaries I got for the Klee. 95% certain I'll order this one up sometime this week.


and for grins, here is a 1U panel for a complete CGS Sequential Switch. The top row needs to come down a hair to avoid having wires stick out all over, but believe it or not, all the components will fit tightly behind this one. PCB off to the left hanging off a pot bracket on the length switch.
J.w.M.
Nice! That 1U seq. switch looks pretty awesome... Lots of usability packed into a small-ish space.
Cat-A-Tonic
On the 1U since you have to move the jacks down from the top a bit you could change some of the legending to accomodate space.
Label the Input to the left of the input row, the Gate to the left of the gate row, and 1-8 between the two rows.
Just an idea. I think it would still be clear to read, and less redundant/cluttered.
Nice designs by the way.
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