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temps_utile / 6 x clock generator [build thread etc]
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 28, 29, 30, 31  Next [all]
Author temps_utile / 6 x clock generator [build thread etc]
timmmofa
this is amazing!
Bamboombaps
I'm having some issues calibrating - the -4, -2, 0, 2 are all good , the +4 was tricky but close enough but now moving on to the CV 1 from the DAC output there's no change from like 10v then all of a sudden it's -4 and I can't get to 0v

On the CV2 screen the value on the calibration is flickering between two numbers which doesn't seem right...
mxmxmx
Bamboombaps wrote:
I'm having some issues calibrating - the -4, -2, 0, 2 are all good , the +4 was tricky but close enough but now moving on to the CV 1 from the DAC output there's no change from like 10v then all of a sudden it's -4 and I can't get to 0v

On the CV2 screen the value on the calibration is flickering between two numbers which doesn't seem right...


if there's no change, something isn't right. the input stage is fairly simple/straightforward, i'd start with reflowing the passives around the MCP6004 (or 6002 if building the "u" version.)

as for the flickering, this is what the instructions say:

Quote:
There may be some jitter and it might jump around between -1 and 0, or between 0 and 1 - that's fine - just get it as close to zero as possible. when done, click to proceed and repeat for the remaining CV inputs.


if the jitter is worse, then it may not be right. hard to tell.

re DAC / 4V: which PCB is that? "u"? or regular? if the latter, one thing you might want to try is replacing the one 3k9 resistor with 4k2 (that's R54 in the "u"-Version), that might/should help; also see here.
Bamboombaps
Thanks I'll try a reflow

The jitter I'm seeing isn't on the dmm it's on the screen of the module itself, on the value that is adjusted by the right encoder. Is this the same jitter?

It's a regular 1b oard btw - if I change that 3k9 to a 4k2 dies the firmware need recompiling?
mxmxmx
Bamboombaps wrote:

The jitter I'm seeing isn't on the dmm it's on the screen of the module itself, on the value that is adjusted by the right encoder. Is this the same jitter?


the 'jitter' referred to in the how-to is what you'd see on the screen of the module during calibration of the CV inputs ("twist the right encoder so that the value shown is as close to 0 as possible.")

Bamboombaps wrote:

It's a regular 1b oard btw - if I change that 3k9 to a 4k2 dies the firmware need recompiling?


no, only when using 10k (in which case the range will be offset more drastically (to -2V / +7V); in that case uncomment the #define MOD_OFFSET switch in TU_options.h)
mxmxmx
fwiw/fyi, i contracted a flu, so i got to play around a bit with the largely dysfunctional 'burst' mode. here's a hopefully more useful version now, some sort of simple one-shot pulse train generator:

https://github.com/mxmxmx/temps_utile-/tree/1.3test

there might still be some bugs (...), but the basics seem to work pretty ok. 'burst' comes with three parameters:

density: amount of clocks per burst (1-31)
initial frequency (in %): to fine-tune the burst frequency/damping (interacts with the divisor/multiplier)
damping: controls the, well, damping (values > 1 : decaying, values < 1 : decelerating)

the 'burst' frequency is controlled, basically, by either the external clock (when choosing clk src = TR1 or TR2), or the internal BPM clock. the other clock input is used to actually trigger a burst; when using the internal clock, there's a choice between TR1 or TR2 (burst src). bursts can also be delayed using the 'phase' parameter.
keninverse
Brilliant. Thank you!
lohacker
Wow, the burst mode now is a gem and the save/load slots are a great addition! Thanks thumbs up
mxmxmx
lohacker wrote:
Wow, the burst mode now is a gem and the save/load slots are a great addition! Thanks



cool ...

NB: anyone updating the firmware: it might make sense to clear the EEPROM after doing so (= push both the up and down buttons during start-up), the storage stuff has been restructured quite a bit, so chances are you'll see garbled mess rather than empty slots. (clearing the EEPROM won't affect the calibration data, just the saved settings, if any).

i've uploaded the .hex in the meantime: https://github.com/mxmxmx/temps_utile-/releases ; plus updated the manual.
justin3am
Thanks so much! Great update!
FrJK
Hi, I habe a strange behaviour with a uTemps.
It is running fine except 1 thing.
When I have it in Mult mode and set the divider to 24 it does not start clocking after boot. All other channel work fine.
If I enter into the menu and change div to another value and then back to 24, all is good.
I changed to another channel, same behaviour.
Based on my observations this does only happen with div 24 ...
Any one any idea?

I updated to 1.30 but no change.

Thanks, Frank.
mxmxmx
FrJK wrote:

I changed to another channel, same behaviour.
Based on my observations this does only happen with div 24 ...
Any one any idea?


seems to happen with any divisor > 16. not sure why that is, but here's a temporary fix
FrJK
Quote:
seems to happen with any divisor > 16. not sure why that is, but here's a temporary fix


Great, thanks. Will you provide an updated hex file in the next few days?
mxmxmx
FrJK wrote:

Great, thanks. Will you provide an updated hex file in the next few days?


sure ... i don't think this warrants a new release; for your convenience, i've discretely replaced the hex here.
FrJK
Quote:
sure ... i don't think this warrants a new release; for your convenience, i've discretely replaced the hex here.


Great (start up problem is solved) and thanks a lot for the very quick help.
duno
Am I ok to use 1/8w instead of 1/4w for the resistors on this? Working through the bom, cant seem to find the 6.4k anywhere for a couple of months.
mxmxmx
duno wrote:
Am I ok to use 1/8w instead of 1/4w for the resistors on this? Working through the bom, cant seem to find the 6.4k anywhere for a couple of months.


i'd assume yes. alternatively, use 0603 or 0805 6k81 ones ? (it's 6k8, not 6k4)
duno
mxmxmx wrote:
duno wrote:
Am I ok to use 1/8w instead of 1/4w for the resistors on this? Working through the bom, cant seem to find the 6.4k anywhere for a couple of months.


i'd assume yes. alternatively, use 0603 or 0805 6k81 ones ? (it's 6k8, not 6k4)


Thanks
mutronic
I recently got an oshpark teensy 3.2 to fit into a mini temps I'm building, and in the process of troubleshooting the module in trying to get it to turn on, I attempted to replace the teensy board in my own personal mini temps utile with the osh park one I ordered. I took the module out of my mantis, and replaced the teensy. When I plugged everything back in, and turned the module on, my R60 resistor exploded and since then have been unable to get the module working (even after replacing the resistor, diode, and LM4040 regulator). Sort of stumped as to what could be preventing it from powering on. Gonna keep on keepin on, but am open to suggestions as to why this might be happening!
mxmxmx
mutronic wrote:
I recently got an oshpark teensy 3.2 to fit into a mini temps I'm building, and in the process of troubleshooting the module in trying to get it to turn on, I attempted to replace the teensy board in my own personal mini temps utile with the osh park one I ordered. I took the module out of my mantis, and replaced the teensy. When I plugged everything back in, and turned the module on, my R60 resistor exploded and since then have been unable to get the module working (even after replacing the resistor, diode, and LM4040 regulator). Sort of stumped as to what could be preventing it from powering on. Gonna keep on keepin on, but am open to suggestions as to why this might be happening!


so you made your (previously working?) module blow up just putting in a new dev board? that's weird.

either way, it should be easy/possible to get the power section back up and running, it's really just the few parts around the LM1117-5 (the LM4040 isn't about power). have you measured the LM1117 output? w/o teensy, that is.
midirobot
Hello : )

the slot saving is great !
would ask if possible to implement for ch.4 in dac mode have more choice for clock source ? (others channel for example ).
and a 3-2-1 step for the LSFR lenght would be great ^^
mutronic
mxmxmx wrote:
mutronic wrote:
I recently got an oshpark teensy 3.2 to fit into a mini temps I'm building, and in the process of troubleshooting the module in trying to get it to turn on, I attempted to replace the teensy board in my own personal mini temps utile with the osh park one I ordered. I took the module out of my mantis, and replaced the teensy. When I plugged everything back in, and turned the module on, my R60 resistor exploded and since then have been unable to get the module working (even after replacing the resistor, diode, and LM4040 regulator). Sort of stumped as to what could be preventing it from powering on. Gonna keep on keepin on, but am open to suggestions as to why this might be happening!


so you made your (previously working?) module blow up just putting in a new dev board? that's weird.

either way, it should be easy/possible to get the power section back up and running, it's really just the few parts around the LM1117-5 (the LM4040 isn't about power). have you measured the LM1117 output? w/o teensy, that is.


Yeah it worked for over a year. I'll measure the output and see what I get.
DJ_JITTER
I've just built a micro Temps, everything seems to be functioning properly except for the DAC output. I can only get the 4V calibration up to 2.8V with it set to full. The rest of the calibration points are fine, and it does output as expected, just at the 2.8v ceiling rather than 4V. Any ideas?
mxmxmx
DJ_JITTER wrote:
I've just built a micro Temps, everything seems to be functioning properly except for the DAC output. I can only get the 4V calibration up to 2.8V with it set to full. The rest of the calibration points are fine, and it does output as expected, just at the 2.8v ceiling rather than 4V. Any ideas?


so you can calibrate -4V, -2V, 0V, +2V, but not +4V ? could be the offset, or are the calibration points (the ones that work) fairly off vis-à-vis the default values? what's the lowest you can go? it shouldn't go much below -4.5V, off the top of my head
DJ_JITTER
The minimum I can get out of it (calibrated to an offset of 0) seems to be -6.6v, and the max is 2.8v (calibrated to an offset of 4095).

Here's a table with what was being output at the default calibration levels, and what I needed to set them to to get the required voltages:

Test Point (V) __Default Offset __ Output at default (V) __Offset required

-4 ____________514 ___________-5.37 _________________1094

-2 ____________1375 __________-3.33 _________________1940

0 _____________2236__________-1.30 _________________2790

2 _____________3097 __________0.72 _________________3635

4 _____________3960 __________2.76 __________________N/A
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