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Found an awesome case for DIY at Home Depot
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4  Next [all]
Author Found an awesome case for DIY at Home Depot
wsy
InsectInPixel wrote:
I finished up my case. The lid section can house a Morphing Terrarium which is decent. It took about a day to make it. My hands are sore now haha. Here's a pic:


That looks great!

A question- how deep a module can you fit on the bottom? Reason I ask is that my Z-rails
get delivered today and I've already got the case and have sourced M4 buttonhead
screws.

All I need to know is how far up from the bottom to space the Z-rail. smile

- Bill
charliedomingo
hey folks!

found the right pin to secure the lid if you want to be able to attach/detach it quickly:







you can use 2 on the ends or 4 if you really want to keep the lid on tight during transport!
charliedomingo
wsy wrote:
A question- how deep a module can you fit on the bottom?


Hey Bill. Once I cut my rails to 96hp, I mounted them using aluminum angle brackets and managed to have the rails stick up above the top of the brackets to accommodate some deep DIY modules- Erica Synths Polivoks VCOs, which are 95mm deep.

You can kinda see it in these two photos:




But because of this, I definitely cannot mount any modules in the lid and can't close the case patched. I'd suggest to measure out your modules and mount the rails at whatever depth works for your setup, taking account for space needed at the bottom/back inside of the case for power connectors and the like. You could even attach your modules to unmounted rails before drilling any holes in the case to see how/if your modules will fit at different rail mounting depths.

Also, check out the DIY case documentation on Doepfer's website for info on proper rail spacing:
technical document for the DIY kits

-Charlie
charliedomingo
adamon wrote:
For those who have done their rail mounting using angle aluminum: do you have any issues with the lid closing/sealing? I just picked one of these up and I noticed there are ridges on each side of the rubber seal in the lid and it seems like the inner one might interfere with the angle aluminum.


Yup you're right. You have to cut a notch out of the case plastic that's on the inside edge of the seal in each corner of the lid, at whatever points line up with the bracket mounting screws in your case. Once I cut these notches, the lid closed/sealed normally again.

charliedomingo
For those not mounting modules in the lid, the lid of the case can easily attach to the back so the case can stand upright without falling back so easily!

stack the case on the top of the lid and use the side handles to snap em together.



add some rubber feet and it stands upright pretty sturdy!







charliedomingo
coolshirtdotjpg wrote:
Can anyone direct me a guide to building a diy case, may e even using this particular case? It seems worth learning, and low enough risk that I could screw one up and buy another and it would still be worth it.


For this case, you'll need two sets of 104hp rails. I used vector rails, purchased for cheap via Mouser.

Cut them down to 96hp using hacksaw or dremel tool.

The mounting brackets are made of 3/4" aluminum angle, which I got as a 3ft piece from Home Depot. I cut the angle using flat cutters but tin snips would probably be a faster method.

You'll have to cut notches in the ends of the downward face of the each angle piece to fit them in the case and cut the top face of the angle at a diagonal at each end too.

Use Doepfer's instructions on rail spacing and drill 4 holes in each bracket.
technical document for the DIY kits

use 4 self-drilling screws to attach the brackets into the case. the lip of the screw heads will hold the brackets in.

cut nicks in the lid at the corresponding areas where the screws in the case are, to make space for those 4 screws when the lid closes.

I've just uploaded a few pictures in this thread that should provide more detail on this, plus some other tips.

Hopefully this all helps.
wsy
I got mine done, and it works great!

I installed the rails right into the sides (no side mounting plates or angles) by first mounting
a couple of modules at each end (which defines the inter-rail spacing) then marking with
that as the gauge. I got 100 HP on the top set, and 98 on the bottom (there's 1 HP on
each end that's unusable because the case tapers slightly at the handle end)

The rail mounting surface is 60mm above the bottom of the box; that way I have room
for the 4MS flying bus cables. I can close it up patched, but by my measurements the
top of the case is too shallow for most modules unless I remove the reinforcing ribs
(which is possible!)

And you know what - it's already too small!!!



Thanks for the ideas and help and moral support!

- Bill
charliedomingo
wsy woah nice work! looks so clean with the rails mounted directly to the sides/ no brackets thumbs up
wsy
charliedomingo wrote:
wsy woah nice work! looks so clean with the rails mounted directly to the sides/ no brackets thumbs up


Thanks!

I swung by Home Depot on the way back from a trade show today and grabbed another
case, for when I absolutely, positively need another 200HP of damage to my credit cards. oops

I also got some stickers - Zombie hunting themed.... so there won't be any trouble distinguishing
this case from all the others. Sniper

- Bill
jonny_w
wsy wrote:
I got mine done, and it works great!

I installed the rails right into the sides (no side mounting plates or angles) by first mounting
a couple of modules at each end (which defines the inter-rail spacing) then marking with
that as the gauge. I got 100 HP on the top set, and 98 on the bottom (there's 1 HP on
each end that's unusable because the case tapers slightly at the handle end)

The rail mounting surface is 60mm above the bottom of the box; that way I have room
for the 4MS flying bus cables. I can close it up patched, but by my measurements the
top of the case is too shallow for most modules unless I remove the reinforcing ribs
(which is possible!)

And you know what - it's already too small!!!



Thanks for the ideas and help and moral support!

- Bill


Incredible work! Did you mount the rails with T-Strut brackets? I was looking at these Vector Rails, these Nuts, and these Brackets - if anybody can confirm I've got the right hardware for those Home Depot cases, that'd be much appreciated smile
wsy
jonny_w wrote:


Incredible work! Did you mount the rails with T-Strut brackets? I was looking at these Vector Rails, these Nuts, and these Brackets - if anybody can confirm I've got the right hardware for those Home Depot cases, that'd be much appreciated smile


Not hardly incredible... Just eight holes, three of which I "nerfed" over with the drill when
they were not quite in the right place.

Actually, I did not use Vector rails or T-strut; I used TipTop brand Z-rail from Foxtone,
length 104 HP before trimming (although any place that sells Z-rail would be fine):

http://foxtonemusic.com/shop/modular/tiptop-audio-z-rails/

The Z-rail comes with an insert that is pre-drilled and pre-threaded every 1 HP to accept
M3 screws, so the screws I got with most of the modules were just fine (I used M3
white nylon washers as well, so there's no rack rashing). The insert means no sliding
nuts required; everything lines up automagically (just remember to cut the sliding rail
starting at matching ends to create the upper and lower rails).

I had to tap the cut ends out with an M4 tap but that's easy (assuming you remember to
clamp the rail so it can't spring open and thereby grab and break the tap! So remember
to do that!

- Bill
charliedomingo
wsy ha great!

yeah I used some black acrylic paint to paint over the big orange spot on the lid and added some stickers too

wsy
Nice job with the black spray paint!

I am torn between the black spraypaint, or printing out a nice label that goes under the
RIDGID logo so it says:

. RIDGID

. ".... but surprisingly open-minded."


Yes, there's a double entendre there, if you look hard enough. :-)

- Bill
InsectInPixel
To give you an idea on the depth of the base, I cannot fit my Disting v1 in it. That is my deepest module.

"That looks great!

A question- how deep a module can you fit on the bottom? Reason I ask is that my Z-rails
get delivered today and I've already got the case and have sourced M4 buttonhead
screws.

All I need to know is how far up from the bottom to space the Z-rail. smile

- Bill"
wsy
To make the next set of drilling easier, here's a drawing (that I'll build on Tuesday) of a jig to make it really easy to drill
the sides for direct-mounting TipTop Z-rail (no "Happy Ending" kit needed; you will still need to trim the rails to fit your
case, three are about 100 HP long and one is a little shorter.



This and a couple of C-clamps and you can set your back-space / offset wherever you like it (or even do a _slanted_ interior, if that
gets your jollies off.) Just clamp the jig with it's top edge where you want the top of the Z-rail to be, tighten the clamps,
push a 3/32" drill through the holes, and you're done!

- Bill
d.lewis1190
These are awesome! I would love to make some.

Can anyone confirm what kind of rails/inserts/nuts where used?

Think I could use Vector rails?

Thanks!
wsy
d.lewis1190 wrote:
These are awesome! I would love to make some.

Can anyone confirm what kind of rails/inserts/nuts where used?

Think I could use Vector rails?

Thanks!


Yes, but the drill spacing will be different than the chart above for tiptop Z-rail.

(I just made the jig and may give it a test fit soon...)

- Bill
xtinct
Thank you OP for this idea, I had to jump on it when I was looking saving some money and expanding my system in a portable manner.
wsy
Oooh, recessed integrated power entry!

How cool is *that*!

- Bill
demodex
I dont mean to hijack the thread but heres the case Ive been using...This:http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-Depot-19-in-Plastic-T ool-Box-with-Metal-Latches-and-Removable-Tool-Tray-17331512/202021300 & and a (modified) HEK.

I cant close it patched but you can take the HEK out and store stuff underneath it.





Heres a track made with it razz[soundcloud url="https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/282310566" params="auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_use r=true&show_reposts=false&visual=true" width="100%" height="450" iframe="true" /]
c0rpse


While we're OT. I built myself a new DIY case out of a

-Seahorse SE120
-2x 42hp Schraff inserts cut down to 36hp
-4x m2.5 euro screws

I can start a new thread w/ details if anyone is interested.
calaveras
just bought one of these cases.
I think I am going to try really hard to mount rails to the top and bottom halves. Anyone succeed with that yet?
Doublecoolbossman
c0rpse wrote:


While we're OT. I built myself a new DIY case out of a

-Seahorse SE120
-2x 42hp Schraff inserts cut down to 36hp
-4x m2.5 euro screws

I can start a new thread w/ details if anyone is interested.


What are you using for power in that little guy?
minime123
very nice. is there enough room inside the lid for you to not have to remove patch cords before putting the lid on?
mini
wsy
minime123 wrote:
very nice. is there enough room inside the lid for you to not have to remove patch cords before putting the lid on?
mini


Plenty of room to close while patched in mine. I have about 38mm between faceplate and closing line, and another
50mm of room in the lid (or would, with a bit of rib-trimming)

- Bill
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