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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Presenting: Crowminius
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40  Next [all]
Author Presenting: Crowminius
oberling
mrmrshoes wrote:
I'm planning on doing a off board wiring build with a moog style panel. I've been messing about with oberling panel design applause , I'm planning on getting a acrylic laser cut panel done with the fancy rocker switches. (i can't afford the nice milled panel)

I've separated out the engraving layer and the cut-out layer in inkscape, I replaced the standoff holes with M3 holes for the switches. It looks like the switches will need an under panel to mount them properly, that shouldn't be to hard to add to the design.

Can anyone share their experience with sourcing the "KND2 2X2" from Daier via alibaba.com.

It looks like you have to buy 50 - 100 pieces at $0.16 each.

Are they any hidden charges when dealing with them? Whats the build quality like?

It would be nice to use these in the finished thing, But if its a pain i might switch to standard toggles.

I have ordered them via Daier at alibaba and got 100 for 18 bucks - which is not bad; Shipping however was another issue screaming goo yo That really cost a little fortune (which was why I also bought some knobs and pieces back then).
I would happily provide you with some - just PM me and we'll sort that out.
As for the build quality: They are "not as nice as moog switches" but at least the size seems better to me than the size of the largest available mouser switches (which are by the way way more expensive per piece). Also the material seems to be some rubber plastic like thing instead of the nice polished plastic for the original moog switches. But they are made of thick rubber/plastic plus metal housing - seems quiet promising in terms of long term stability. The M3 screw holes are even threaded - so you can directly put screws through them without the definite requirement of nuts... might be handy for your purposes...? Last but not least I mentioned there is a little red indicator dot on each and every switch which has to be scraped off to get a nicer look...
That's all I guess hihi

mrmrshoes wrote:

Also can anyone tell me how the screen will function in the midi build of the crowminus? Can you set parameters with it?

Well you can output FilterCV and PitchCV via the DAC using MIDI - that's part of the firmware.
mrmrshoes wrote:

I got 1.1.2 version of the pcb so i'm planning on building up the second dac for midi Mod and Pitch bend on a piece of strip board. Been looking over the schematic shouldn't to hard to pull off. Then i'll just flash the 1.1.3 firmware.

Also my plan - not quiet there yet though... the SY-1 was a little "interrupt-project" here hyper
Was wondering first if PitchCV wouldn't be more appropriate to get the PitchBend done, but probably the 12-Bit of the DAC for 5 Octaves are not sufficient to also have a decent PitchBend between the notes...
mrmrshoes wrote:

I'm planning on using this synth with the Arturia keystep keyboard with its midi output. I've got a MFOS soundlab Mark2 that will use the CV gate outputs. So hooking up the crowminus for midi control makes sense.

Yep: As the onboard MIDI-Interface requires another scaling instead of the usual 1V/Oct you have to decide that beforehand or put another external strip-board in to switch for either using CV/Gate or MIDI...
oldcrow wrote:
To use the MIDI MCU make sure R4 is 102K. If you are going to use the external CV/gate for 1V/oct keying make sure R4 is 121K. The onboard DAC uses an internal 4.096V reference, so in order to get 5 octaves of range I scaled the key CV response to 0.815v/oct. External CVs are not constrained to this 4.096V reference and so the more common 1V/oct. can be applied.

Crow
/**/



mrmrshoes wrote:

For headers to off board components i'll also use strip-board, So the rotary switches and 2mm headers switches will be soldered to a piece of strip-board with standard 0.1 headers attached. Saves time looking for weird parts. I can write on the strip-board with permanent maker so hopfully it will make troubleshooting easier.

After having nearly finished my panel wiring it seems that would have been a good idea lol
mrmrshoes
cheers for the info on the switches man thumbs up I'm pm'ing you now.

I'll post more here when I get things rolling along.
crustibooga
Just received my rev 1.1.3 board via the Kickstarter campaign. Thank you Scott! Guinness ftw!
mrmrshoes
I guess this is a question for Crow. I'm doing prep work for my V1.1.2 PCB build. I want to use the Dac based midi Pitchbend and mod. I've drawen a schematic for the piggyback DAC. Does this look right to you?

I've also done a PCB so if anyone wants just let me know. The PCB is pretty Rough at the minute, I'll smarten it up
The eagle files will be posted here once its finished.



oldcrow
That looks like it should work. Just make sure your DAC and the onboard one use their own CS lines. SlayerBadger! --Crow
Allen Huang
Mr. Crow,
I got the Crowminius boards. I was anxious about them and now I feel the wait totally worth. The quality of the board is awesome.

BTW, will you produce more microcontrollers for it? I think i'll finally need one.
p4rancesc0
Hi everybody,
sorry to bother but C22,C51 seems to be hard to find:

0.033 uF 50V radial film capacitor, in particular, ECQ-V1H333JL, is obsolete.

I'd like to know if this one:

Nichicon QYX1H333JTP
493-3461-ND
QYX1H333JTP

will do the job.

It's Polyester instead of "Polyester, Metallized - Stacked"

Any advices ?

BR
mrgazak
Hi
Quote:
sorry to bother but C22,C51 seems to be hard to find:
0.033 uF 50V radial film capacitor, in particular, ECQ-V1H333JL, is obsolete.

The original part and the PCB has a 5mm lead pitch.
You could use the part you suggest
Quote:
Nichicon QYX1H333JTP, Digikey 493-3461-ND

but you'd need to form the leads slightly because it is only 3.5mm pitch and avoid damaging the capacitor body.
I would have thought that Digikey 399-5898-ND (Kemet R82EC2330AA50J) is an acceptable alternative (from many possibilities) but I stand to be corrected if there is some property I have overlooked.

Gareth
sk23
Hi guys,
I've a working 1.1 Crowminius that came with the Crow's pre-programmed MIDI MCU, firmware spring\summer 2015.

At the time the pitch bend wasn't implemented in the firmware.
Now I'm asking myself, if there is a new firmware version and what's new.

Thank you
jimfowler
Can anybody tell me why this would NOT work to power a trio of boards (MiniMoog 3D!!!): http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=166LA12virtualkey546 00000virtualkey546-166LA12

Thanks.

- jim
beedogs
My kit showed up today. The panel looks really nice, but there's a bit of an issue:

The 1000 uF caps for the power supply are far too tall for the panel. They're over an inch tall each, and the pots and LEDs and other bits on the board don't have that sort of height; they'll never reach the holes they're meant to poke through.

Any recommendations on what to do? I'm thinking a lot of people are going to have this issue during their builds.
mrgazak
Hi beedogs
beedogs wrote:

The 1000 uF caps for the power supply are far too tall for the panel. They're over an inch tall each.

I don't have my panels yet so I can't see how much height is available but at least I haven't bought any caps yet. smile How much height do you think there is?

There's not much scope to reduce the height in a 50V version but at 35V there are 20mm (0.78") parts and at 25V parts at 17.5mm (0.69") e.g. Digikey P15144-ND. That voltage rating should be OK in the power supply smoothing, I think.

Gareth
kx173
Just received the panel and PCB for the desktop version.

Here's what I paid for on kickstarter:

"The DIY Crowminius with front panel! This is a bare "through-hole" circuit board and build documentation for those who wish to scratch-build their own unit. Includes engraved 8.5"x11" front panel. "

I can find the BOM but nothing I could call "build documentation".
Is there a centralplace where all problems are listed so I don't have to scroll thru 36 pages of discussion spreaded in everey direction?
Nothing on the CS80 page unless I overlooked....

I was expecting some explanations about the dual input PS, Atmega, calibration etc..
JanneI
I'm told that silkscreen for 1.1.3 is correct, but I have also checked every component with the 1.1.3 schematic. No mystery values/components so far, but there is no noobie-style build documentation available that I know of. The Bom is mainly for 1.1.1, 1.1.2 & 1.1.3 changes listed at the bottom.
beedogs
The 1000uF caps are about 2.7cm tall, just over an inch. Most of the pots are much shorter than this. I'm guessing anyone wishing to use the supplied panel from the KS run will need to mount each pot and switch to it and run wires back to the board. This is fine but hopefully the build guide will offer some tips or suggestions which haven't occurred to me yet.

That being said, there is no build guide available yet (that I can find) but the part values are all silkscreened on the PCB, so mounting most of the bits and pieces should be pretty straightforward.
mrgazak
All V1.1.3 builders

A quick look at the datasheets for the rotary and switches suggests that, with the switches fitted flush to the PCB, the distance to the top of the threaded bush on each switch is as follows:

Toggle (e.g. Digikey EG2447-ND) 14.75mm
Rotary (e.g. Mouser 105-SR2512F-26NS) 18.5mm
The LEDs should have at least 25mm leads.

The pins on the toggle switch are only 3.3mm long so, realistically, the top of the bush on the switch can't be more than 16.35mm above the PCB if they are soldered directly into the PCB (my preference).

As I understand, it should be possible to use the front panel with everything soldered directly to the PCB and the switch bushes protruding into their holes but not fixed with nuts.

Therefore the toggle switch levers must not foul on their holes when the bush is not engaged in the hole. It seems like that might work up to about 2-2.5mm above the top of the bush assuming the hole is a normal fit for the bush. I don't know how thick the front panel is but I'm guessing it must be around 2mm to be sufficiently rigid.

So, all in all, it looks possible to build in this way if the tallest parts on the board are less than about 16.5mm. So far the 1000uF capacitors (C60, C61) are an identified problem. The Panasonic part, EEUHD1E102, (Digikey P15144-ND) is advertised at 16mm but only 25V. Should be OK, I think.

What else might be taller than 16mm?

Looking forward to testing this in reality when my PCB and front panel arrive any day now...

Gareth
oldcrow
I put them on the bottom. The smaller cap I leave on top at a right angle. I am working to finish up the build docs. --Crow

beedogs wrote:
My kit showed up today. The panel looks really nice, but there's a bit of an issue:

The 1000 uF caps for the power supply are far too tall for the panel. They're over an inch tall each, and the pots and LEDs and other bits on the board don't have that sort of height; they'll never reach the holes they're meant to poke through.

Any recommendations on what to do? I'm thinking a lot of people are going to have this issue during their builds.
beedogs
Cheers for that. I kind of figured they might end up on the bottom of the board. Makes sense.
kx173
oldcrow wrote:
I am working to finish up the build docs. --Crow



Good news. I understand this is not a build for a total noob, but I want to make sure that the BOM is accurate and/or be advised of known problems, like the height of PS caps, before I face them.

Do you plan to offer somewhere/somehow a file to make the panel?
(or did I missed it...)
I'd prefer a straight 8.5*11 over the one provided. I could use the supplied panel as a drill guide but I don't want to damage it since I'll try to resell it....

Can't wait to make sounds out of it! smile
hreggi89
Hei Crow. Did you ever get around doing BOMs at Digikey and Mouser? I've got the v1.1 PCB and I did find the Digikey BOM another user here already made so I am mainly wondering about the Mouser one.
oldcrow
This is one of the (many) things I am trying to squeeze in there among these Crowminius builds. My mostly-DIY Crowminius Euro board sets arrived today, so that is an added incentive to get 'em done. Guinness ftw!

hreggi89 wrote:
Hei Crow. Did you ever get around doing BOMs at Digikey and Mouser? I've got the v1.1 PCB and I did find the Digikey BOM another user here already made so I am mainly wondering about the Mouser one.
JanneI
Little heads-up for the 1.1.3 builders: I ordered the 1.1.1 BOM digi-key cart and found out that it's not complete for 1.1.3. So check the area next to cv/gate inputs jacks.. few resistors and capacitors missing from the 1.1.1 bom, 33nF etc..
oldcrow
I have a number of extra panels for the v1.1.3 board now available:

http://cs80-com.myshopify.com/products/front-panel-for-crowminius-v1-1 -3

I will have a panel for the v1.1/v1.1.2 sometime in December as I have a 3D printer now to test switch cap prints until I get one I like.

Happy Turkeyday Weekend,

Crow
/**/
p4rancesc0
has anyone ever tryed to buy this one ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-CA3046-DIP-14-OBSOLETE-Transistor-Array-NPN -60V-2-5A-1-7V-LM3046-ULN2046-/122041351438?hash=item1c6a3b3d0e:g:KV0A AMXQBg5RwrDL

I live in italy, not that easy to source.

Any hints ?

BR
aquatarkus
Might try to see if these guys ship there:

http://www.jameco.com/z/CA3046N-Major-Brands-Ic-Ca3046N-Lm3046N-Dip-14 -Gp-Npn-Transistor-Array_12079.html
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