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DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 98, 99, 100, 101, 102  Next [all]
Author DIY Mutable Unsuccessful Builds
Halfgeleider
Hi everyone, troubleshooting my 2nd rings, first one went ok from the first time.
Everything went good with the 2nd but there is no sound on the outputs, leds work as the should. Sometimes i hear a sound very silent, almost not hearable trough headphones.
Things ive done:
- Reflowed most solders which i wasnt sure of.
- contiunuity check traces between ARM and codec
- continuity between codec and outputs.
- measured between the wiper and the terminals on the ARM for 3.3v and changing when turning the pots.
- 3.3v on codec, ic's

- last thing i did is measuring the output and aux output of the codec, and this is always 1.64v, it doesnt change whatever i do.
I dont know how much this should be, and maybe there is another component that blocks the output?

Thanks in advance if anyone knows what i could measure next...
uwe
Halfgeleider wrote:
Hi everyone, troubleshooting my 2nd rings, first one went ok from the first time.
Everything went good with the 2nd but there is no sound on the outputs, leds work as the should. Sometimes i hear a sound very silent, almost not hearable trough headphones.
Things ive done:
- Reflowed most solders which i wasnt sure of.
- contiunuity check traces between ARM and codec
- continuity between codec and outputs.
- measured between the wiper and the terminals on the ARM for 3.3v and changing when turning the pots.
- 3.3v on codec, ic's

- last thing i did is measuring the output and aux output of the codec, and this is always 1.64v, it doesnt change whatever i do.
I dont know how much this should be, and maybe there is another component that blocks the output?

Thanks in advance if anyone knows what i could measure next...


The output is AC and needs to be measured with a scope. There is a DC offset that's removed by the two coupling capacitors (electrolytics). 1.64V sounds about right for DC. You should see AC across the capacitor or at the output pins of the codec.
Eric J
HI, everyone. Troubleshooting a DIY Grids here. Its working and lights are flashing and triggers are going out.

It seems like it's not working properly though. When I compare it to retail Grids on YT vids, the behavior is not the same.

E1, E2, E3 Fill knobs, only seem to work from 90 degrees to full clockwise. Anything less than 90 degrees through full counterclockwise and no lights flash on that channel and no triggers are sent out. Its almost as if the knobs are bi-polar and only the positive side is working.

In addition to a couple of weeks of experimenting and research online, I've tried a number of things.
* Setting the ppqn value works to change the resolution, but doesnt change the knobs behavior.
* I've reflashed the chip numerous times with both a USBasp and a proper Olimex AVR ISP mkII. Chip seems to flash fine in either environment and seems to be working, but the behavior persists.
* I've tried using Atmel and the Vagrant environment. Both successful but the behavior remains the same
* I've reflowed numerous times and checked with a 10x loupe to ensure that everything is soldered properly.

Not my first SMD or MI build, but I've only been at this for a couple of years and built maybe 2 dozen units total. I'm not an expert by any means.

Does anyone have any ideas on things to try next?
cnicht
Have you set the fuses in the microcontroller?
Eric J
Yes, but I'm not sure I did it correctly. I copied the fuse values from the makefile. When I did it in Windows, I ran these 3 commands in order:

avrdude -V -p m328p -c usbasp -P usb -B 4 -U flash:w:build/grids/grids.hex:i -U lock:w:0x2f:m -U efuse:w:0x05:m -U hfuse:w:0xd8:m -U lfuse:w:0xff:m

avrdude -V -p m328p -c usbasp -P usb -B 1 -U flash:w:build/grids/grids.hex:i -U flash:w:build/grids_bootloader/grids_bootloader.hex:i -U lock:w:0x2f:m

avrdude -V -p m328p -c usbasp -P usb -B 10 -e -u -U efuse:w:0x05:m -U hfuse:w:0xd8:m -U lfuse:w:0xff:m -U lock:w:0x2f:m
Eric J
When the knobs are in circuit, they only go up to 5k. That seems like its a problem. Taking them out and they go 0 - 10k like expected.
JakoGreyshire
Hey everyone...

I wanted to chime in with an update from my twisted troubles(pun intended)..

I think I mentioned here about a Twists that I had built where it was giving me straight up noise out of the outputs... Super strange...

I got a USB microscope and looked at it real good..... Not much to go on there... everything looked real good...

so, I'm sitting around thinking about it and I started thinking about the crystal and how that clocks the ARM chip, right?

Hmmm, maybe it's getting overclocked and making noise on the outputs?....

anyway the crystal looked good under scope but I decided to just wick off the some of the solder from the pads at the crystal...

Bam! I've got a working Twists now!!...

I'm guessing that there might have been a tiny bit of solder splash from the pads to the top metal piece of the component...?

Now, I'm playing with the thing trying to remember why I wanted to build one in the first place..?


One thing I've realized... When things look good and soldered by normal magnification, under the microscope it looks like there is too much solder. Not bridged or in trouble of too much solder, but just looks like there could be less and it would be fine.. Wicking away the solder may look strange but there is still soldered connections made.... And maybe my good solder jobs could be wicked just a little bit...


seriously, i just don't get it seriously, i just don't get it
JakoGreyshire
On another note...

I'm building a Plancks II... The Excel BOM says 330 Ohm for R11,R12,R13... The Dip trace file is saying that the resistors should be 100 Ohm...

These resistors are in between the multicolored LED and the ARMchip..

So, I guessing that either 330ohm or 100ohm will work okay....


What do you all think? Will it mess with the forward energy thingy of the LED?
What's that called? "Forward resistance" of an LED? Forward something...

It's not enough of a resistance difference to limit the brightness of the LEDs, is it?

I sound silly, I know... but hey, any pedantic brains care to correct my thoughts here? please...

thumbs up
Halfgeleider
About my rings, measured the outputs of the codec but no AC voltage there. Only the 1,64v DC i mentioned before.
Strange because i can here rings go trough the chromatic scale when sending a quantized signal. It is very low in volume, almost not hearable.
The AC voltage from the TL072 to the outputs is 10,37V.
Altitude909
JakoGreyshire wrote:
On another note...

I'm building a Plancks II... The Excel BOM says 330 Ohm for R11,R12,R13... The Dip trace file is saying that the resistors should be 100 Ohm...

These resistors are in between the multicolored LED and the ARMchip..

So, I guessing that either 330ohm or 100ohm will work okay....


What do you all think? Will it mess with the forward energy thingy of the LED?
What's that called? "Forward resistance" of an LED? Forward something...

It's not enough of a resistance difference to limit the brightness of the LEDs, is it?

I sound silly, I know... but hey, any pedantic brains care to correct my thoughts here? please...

thumbs up


use 330R
JakoGreyshire
Thanks Altitude909!
thumbs up
clementltz
Hello everybody,
I have some issues with my DIY MI Clouds i've just finish to build, hope you could help!

So here is a summary of what I've done so far :
- re-tchek all the soldering
- Power it up, tcheking all the voltages (+12/-12/2x3V3, 1,2V from ARM's LDO)
- Tchek the pin's voltages
I finally succeed to turn it up, I mean seeing that the thing was turned on : the four Led were red lit but nothing happened when I pushed any other buttons.
And last, I've tried updating the firmware via the "Update Firmware Procedure" from MI, everything went as described with the 1.31 version (also from MI).
Now when I turn it on, the LED blink once very fast then turn off. When I plug audio into IN L, the four LED start blinking red, and do not stop whatever I do. The Freeze button seem to stop them for a tiny amount of time but they keep blinking (1-2Hz).
When I plug audio into IN R, they start blinking but the freeze button stop them and they stop blinking until I plug it out and in.
And there is no audio passing through the module.

I have to admit that I do not really know what to do. I think the ARM is alive since it sends the blinking information from I2C.
Hope this is clear.
What do you think?
Thank you all in advance,
Clément
Halfgeleider
Hi, while trouble with rings keep on, i took some time to finish frames. Every knob and led work as they should, but if i test the module with 4 audio inputs, and take out the mix or the individual outs, the level is always the same. The 4 channel pots dont anttenuate, so there is no possibility to mix.

Putting levels in a keyframe is no problem, the led goes dim and stronger while turning the pots. Animation using an lfo is working, but the problem is the levels of the channels are always the same.

What could cause such behaviour?

Thanks.
djthopa
Hi!

Im about to start building a Yarns only to spot that i have a slight variation of the OPA4171 quad op-amp.

The one on the original bom is this one:

595-OPA4171AIDR

https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/OPA4171AIDR?qs=% 2Fha2pyFaduhwC36WnV1aiMF4zZzFZuScSL7IplWdAuM8ogs8cKgc6Q==

And i have this one:

595-OPA4172IDR

https://www.mouser.es/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/OPA4172IDR?qs=%2 Fha2pyFaduhwC36WnV1aiNrKBSVYcNje69sPhtbOEqP8UPhDilpDrw%3D%3D

Im not too sure its ok, they are the same footprint but have different specs:

Output Current per Channel: 25 mA
Output Current per Channel: 75 mA

GBP - Gain Bandwidth Product: 3 MHz
GBP - Gain Bandwidth Product: 10 MHz

SR - Slew Rate: 1.5 V/us
SR - Slew Rate: 10 V/us


Ib - Input Bias Current: 15 pA
Ib - Input Bias Current: 8 pA

Vos - Input Offset Voltage: 1.8 mV
Vos - Input Offset Voltage: 1 mV

Supply Voltage - Min: 2.7 V
Supply Voltage - Min: 4.5 V

Could anyone share their thoughts?

Shall i just get the right one and save myself the trouble, or i could just use the alternative one i have?

Many thanks!
adam
i think it'd be easier to use the one specified
djthopa
Thanks for the reply Adam,

Massive facepalm right now...I have the right one and its even named with the Yarns client code! Just had it in the wrong component box.

My work place needs some tidying for sure!

dooooohhhh!!!

Many thanks!
JakoGreyshire
clementltz wrote:
Hello everybody,
I have some issues with my DIY MI Clouds i've just finish to build, hope you could help!

So here is a summary of what I've done so far :
- re-tchek all the soldering
- Power it up, tcheking all the voltages (+12/-12/2x3V3, 1,2V from ARM's LDO)
- Tchek the pin's voltages
I finally succeed to turn it up, I mean seeing that the thing was turned on : the four Led were red lit but nothing happened when I pushed any other buttons.
And last, I've tried updating the firmware via the "Update Firmware Procedure" from MI, everything went as described with the 1.31 version (also from MI).
Now when I turn it on, the LED blink once very fast then turn off. When I plug audio into IN L, the four LED start blinking red, and do not stop whatever I do. The Freeze button seem to stop them for a tiny amount of time but they keep blinking (1-2Hz).
When I plug audio into IN R, they start blinking but the freeze button stop them and they stop blinking until I plug it out and in.
And there is no audio passing through the module.

I have to admit that I do not really know what to do. I think the ARM is alive since it sends the blinking information from I2C.
Hope this is clear.
What do you think?
Thank you all in advance,
Clément


It's hard to say what the issue could be, but it makes me think that the left audio input might have a short. I would re-flow those pins..

I would also suggest uploading a high quality picture so we can have a look at the PCB...

Make sure the ICs are all correctly orientated...

I've had similar issues with a clouds/uBurst... When I got flashing lights it was because there was a short to ground....
JakoGreyshire
Hey Altitude909, do you have a part number for the screw and standoff for the plancksII? I ordered the wrong switch for SW5 so, I'm going to have to place another order...
d'oh!
Altitude909
JakoGreyshire wrote:
Hey Altitude909, do you have a part number for the screw and standoff for the plancksII? I ordered the wrong switch for SW5 so, I'm going to have to place another order...
d'oh!


I dont have a part# but it needs to be M2.5 thread and 10mm long (I use M2 actually). I like the nylon ones
JakoGreyshire
Altitude909 wrote:
JakoGreyshire wrote:
Hey Altitude909, do you have a part number for the screw and standoff for the plancksII? I ordered the wrong switch for SW5 so, I'm going to have to place another order...
d'oh!


I dont have a part# but it needs to be M2.5 thread and 10mm long (I use M2 actually). I like the nylon ones


Thanks again for all your help! You are awesome! thumbs up thumbs up we're not worthy we're not worthy


On another note.... I've become enamored with Chip tunes and I plan to build an Edges... I'm looking at what I need to program the Atmega chip...
The only thing that seems to be available right now is the Adafruit USBtinyISP AVR Programmer... https://www.adafruit.com/product/46

Any other suggestions? I'm using a Mac..
Altitude909
JakoGreyshire wrote:
.

Any other suggestions? I'm using a Mac..


Edges is a bit trickier since it uses PDI as the programming interface and not all programmers support that.

ive been using this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-AVRISP-mkII-programmer-ATMEL-Studio-7-AVR -ISP-PDI-TPI-Xmega-mk2/163041594518?hash=item25f6094c96:g:TU0AAOSwPe1U HDXk

as a backup to my Atmel one
JakoGreyshire
Altitude909 wrote:
JakoGreyshire wrote:
.

Any other suggestions? I'm using a Mac..


Edges is a bit trickier since it uses PDI as the programming interface and not all programmers support that.

ive been using this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-AVRISP-mkII-programmer-ATMEL-Studio-7-AVR -ISP-PDI-TPI-Xmega-mk2/163041594518?hash=item25f6094c96:g:TU0AAOSwPe1U HDXk

as a backup to my Atmel one


Thanks for the advice.... The programmer you suggested says it supports lots of Windows flavors but mentions nothing about Mac.... No worries....

The Adafruit one I posted says that it now officially supports PID. It just wont flash anything bigger than 64K which is good because the Edges Atmega is like 32K or something....


On another note, the sliders I ordered for Plancks II have a center detent. I guess that's not a big deal ? I guess it might be nice to be able to hit the voltage at center for making keyframes at that voltage, so If I needed half of 5V or 10V etc...

Any thoughts on that?

seriously, i just don't get it

EDIT: I checked my order with mouser and it turns out the sent me the wrong sliders... I did order the correct ones.... Faquers! Well, they most likely refund my money on that... They don't seem to send replacements out. It's easier to just refund and not pay shipping.. We'll see. I have to order some more shtuff anyways... I once saw some rainbow slider colors on a mystic circuits module some where... I wish they had more colors to choose from other than red or green.
forestcaver
I use an olimex avrispmkii on a mac and have used it on windows.

Sliders - on all the sliders I have used, it’s not hard to take them apart to remove the ball bearing that implements the centre detent
Altitude909
forestcaver wrote:
I use an olimex avrispmkii on a mac and have used it on windows.
..


If it currently works on a mac, then that's the route he should take. I can definitely confirm the Olimex does NOT work on windows anymore. Something changed in the last year or two. I had one as a backup that I only used for the VM and it stopped working on windows after an update. Olimex doesnt update it (i think 2012 was the last build) so its dead on windows.
HybrisBehemoth
Hi all

Working on my first MI module; Warps. Finished and tested the power supply and then soldered the ICs. Tested all the connections with my multimeter and found no bridged pins.

Got the recommended Olimex ARM-USB-OCD-H. Downloaded the latest VirtualBox (6.0) and Extension Pack as well as Vagrant and Cmdr mini to control it. Started the latest version of the MI Vagrant environment as described here:
https://github.com/pichenettes/mutable-dev-environment

Everything seems to be working fine till its time to upload:


vagrant@vagrant-ubuntu-trusty-64:/vagrant/eurorack-modules$ lsusb
Bus 001 Device 003: ID 15ba:002b Olimex Ltd. ARM-USB-OCD-H JTAG+RS232
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub
vagrant@vagrant-ubuntu-trusty-64:/vagrant/eurorack-modules$ make -f warps/makefile upload
stmlib/makefile.inc:503: warning: overriding commands for target `upload_combo_jtag_erase_first'
stmlib/makefile.inc:487: warning: ignoring old commands for target `upload_combo_jtag_erase_first'
openocd -s /opt/local/share/openocd/scripts -f interface/olimex-arm-usb-ocd-h.cfg -f target/stm32f4x.cfg -c "init" -c "halt" -c "sleep 200" \
-c "flash erase_address 0x08000000 0x20000" \
-c "reset halt" \
-c "flash write_image erase build/warps/warps_bootloader_combo.bin 0x08000000" \
-c "verify_image build/warps/warps_bootloader_combo.bin 0x08000000" \
-c "sleep 200" -c "reset run" -c "shutdown"
Open On-Chip Debugger 0.9.0 (2019-05-21-07:13)
Licensed under GNU GPL v2
For bug reports, read
http://openocd.org/doc/doxygen/bugs.html
Error: The specified debug interface was not found (ft2232)
The following debug interfaces are available:
1: ftdi
2: usb_blaster
3: usbprog
4: jlink
5: vsllink
6: rlink
7: ulink
8: arm-jtag-ew
9: hla
10: osbdm
11: opendous
12: aice

make: *** [upload_combo_jtag_erase_first] Error 1


Spent the better part of this day searching and reading posts. I have tried the following commands:

git clone https://github.com/pichenettes/mutable-dev-environment.git

git submodule update

export PGM_INTERFACE=olimex-arm-usb-ocd-h

make -f warps/makefile upload_combo_jtag
instead of
make -f warps/makefile upload

As you can see above lsusb seems to identify the Olimex Ltd. ARM-USB-OCD-H correctly.


What am I missing? Suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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