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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Black Swamp build thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8  Next [all]
Author Black Swamp build thread
yan6


Im not sure if you can double check things or not from the picture. You are looking at stage 8.

When i tried as you described, running the sequencer in the up direction with all switches in run and no gate outputs, placing a high gate at the stop; i dont get any results the sequncer continues to run.

I checked that the stop jack goes only to the cgs59a pulse in. The wire from the diode bus goes to cgs59a pad 'H'. Other than +12v and ground there arent any other connections on the cgs59a.
tojpeters
There are 4 more connections to the CGS59A board;
They are detailed at the left side of the drawing.
Pads F,E,C,and D are connected from the CGS87 to the CGS59A

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/userpix2/7123_black_swamp_run_stop_s kip_wire_guide_2.jpg
yan6
man, I missed those for sure d'oh! , are these in addition to the A,D,C,E,F,B from the CGS87S.
yan6


applause Progress

next issue confirmed with scope no gate on gate 1
tojpeters
I'm not sure of your question.
One end of the CGS87 (the big board) should be connected to the CGS87S board,the other end of the big board connects to the ghost state/CGS58A. Do note the reversed silkscreen legend for the 0v and +12v pads on one end.
tojpeters
No gate on just gate 1 or gate 2 also?
yan6
Okay, I'm getting gates on both Gate 1 and Gate 2 now, I forgot to add the link from O1 to I4 on the OR Gate of the CGS39.

Could you explain the difference in use from Gate 1 to Gate 2
tojpeters
Gate 1 is on when the clock signal is high,gate 2 is on when the clock is low.
With a variable pulse width clock signal you can choose the length of the gate signals and when gate 2 starts within the step.
yan6
I've testing out the gate 1 & 2 and think I'm ready to move on. I could either go to the gated comparator or the pull switches of row A. What else is going on in the pull switch other than changing the voltage divider for the CV scaling.

I feel I will need a description of how to test the gated comparator.
tojpeters
That's all the row A push-pull pots do, insert a voltage divider (for the whole column ) and bring the voltage range down to 0-2 volts for finer control on the frequency knobs.
So you have good cv outputs on A,B,C,D when the row A knobs aren't pulled?
For the Gated Comp patch the white noise output (speed up,not down in the clock range) to IN,and a clock to the clock input. Start with the SENS knob fully clockwise and turn it toward the center. You should see the COMP LED start flashing,and that flash carried down the line. Too much input and all the outs will go high and there will be no movement.
yan6
I choose to look at the gated comparator first. Initially I didn't think it was working but after messing with it for a while, I was able to make it work as I thought it should from your description and from watching a video or two about it. Having said that it was extremely fussy and I wasn't able to repeat the results easily. I was only able to get it to work twice in about 40min of fussing with it.

Most of the time the comp led comes on and all bits light up solid.

Just a note only the green leds were workings as well, I'm not sure when the red would light but I didn't see them.
yan6
Okay poking around a bit, I almost cant believe it, I had the enable switch in sideways d'oh! meh oops but wired according to the drawings.

Now that I fixed it; when in enable I see green lights and they appear to be working as the should moving in a repetitive like sequence. If I flip the enable switch red led's start at the top and according to the clock work their way down until all are light and then stay like that. I presume that is normal as it seem sensible.

I still cant really make it work form the white noise on board but it seems okay when using the one from an Edelweiss panel seriously, i just don't get it
tojpeters
The red LEDs will light when in loop mode.
What are you using as a clock?
Do you have a good 0v connection between your clock source and this panel.
It should not be that hard to dial up a pattern.
Try the sense knob on both sides of the center point.
If you have given it too much input and all LEDs are lit simply pull the cable from the IN jack and let all the bits fall out the bottom.
Maybe try this loop patch.
Flip the INT CLK/ CLK I/O switch up and patch the clock I/O jack to the input of the divider.
I'm just going through the divider here to give a visual indication of the clock rate.
Take one of the division outputs and patch to the Gated Comp CLOCK jack.
No other cables patched to the GATED COMP.
Set the rotary switch to 8
Flip the enable switch up.
Press the LOAD momentary switch or button,whichever you used, a couple times It takes a bit of practice to load in what you want ,but activating the switch several times should make the COMP LED light up and then that signal should travel down the line to step 8. After step 8 the signal (lighted LED) should loop back up to step 1.You can keep activating the switch and add more bits, if it is too much or you just want to try a new pattern set the rotary to the LOOP IN jack setting or just turn off the ENABLE switch and all the bits will drop out. Send the MIX out to a VCO and monitor the output. Adjust the RANGE knob to taste.
yan6
I checkout the above description quick and it appears to be working. I noticed the rate pot on the noise section has a sweet spot where it goes from a reasonable clock to insane fast without barely moving it. This might explain why I can get it to work with the gated comparator. I'm not sure if the pot is faulty or if I have something wrong. Just checking it should B100K?

Also checking the load switch only worked while enable was in the up position.

one last thing the mix and mix inv go to to CGS31 mixer out; I dont think I have any connections to the inputs; where these supposed to be from the gated outputs?
tojpeters
The rate pot is B100k. Maybe you have a log pot in there,or like you said a faulty pot. It should not be touchy.
The output of the bus connecting the wipers of pots 1-8 (they all go through a 100k resistor before connecting to the bus) goes to CGS31 pad MISN.
The RANDOM output does not go through the mixer but is affected by the BIT DISABLE function (MIX and MIX INV are not)
Pull knobs 5-8 out to disable those bits and patch the RANDOM jack to the 1v/oct input of a VCO and monitor the results.
If you are using the white noise output patched to the input of the Gated Comp you will need to use an external clock source to clock the GATED COMP. To get good clock speeds out of the digital noise you will slow down your white noise and it will be more like a series of gates. You can also use the output of the VCO you are driving as your input if you want to use the clock from the noise module.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/userpix2/7123_black_swamp_gate_comp_ row_45_wire_guide_1.jpg
tojpeters
Did you see the resistor changes for the digital noise?


Leave out the 4.7M resistor for lower speed. Replace 1k8 with 1k5 for 12v use
yan6
Alright moving on and I'm starting to feel much better like there is an end near. The comparator is working; I changed the pot and the noise works as it should. As for the mixer, it was my lack of understanding or maybe thinking d'oh! I had all the output pots turned down oops I turned them up and of course it works fine and the pull knobs remove the bits from the mixer.

I'm going to move onto the Row A pull knobs
tojpeters
Fantastic. The Gated Comp is possibly my favorite module.
Very underrated.
tojpeters
https://youtu.be/1iAOLJnbFrA


This is a gated comp demo I did a few years ago
yan6
Nice video SlayerBadger! I'm stoked to use it myself, it looks like a lot of fun

I've torn apart the row a pull switches and things are looking okay to me so far. Any guesses what would cause the pull switch to make it jump and hold to another step. Because the order is all over the place, I'm wondering if the random gates is somehow causing this.

I'm also curious if the wiring to the solo switch is correct. I have skipped the S&H so all I have is a SPDT with the top lug to 0V, middle lug to S (near power header) and the bottom lug to the other S at the bottom of the pcb.
tojpeters
So when the A row switches are pushed in all your outputs are good and respond to knob settings normally ?
tojpeters
Your SOLO switch wiring is correct
tojpeters
I don't see how the RANDOM GATES board could cause this,but you can always disconnect the power to that board while testing.
yan6
Sorry for the delay, but I'm back now

tojpeters wrote:
So when the A row switches are pushed in all your outputs are good and respond to knob settings normally ?


Things dont seem to be working here; I only have 0-800mV change on each knobs for all rows. I cross checked this with my TPS which puts out 0-5V
tojpeters
How about the stage out jacks?
Also check the voltage on the CCW lug of the A pot.
Maybe also check that you don't have continuity to ground on that lug.
Did you run the wires from each row of pots to the CGS87S board?
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