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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

The Definitive Connecting Power Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules  
Author The Definitive Connecting Power Thread
spbaker
Ok this is a big title and I doubt this first post will make it definitive, I'm hoping others can come and add to this to make it "definitive" but because there is a weekly post from peeps asking how do I plug this or that in maybe this can be where most of the answers can be found.

Down to business:

The eurorack system works on a +/- 12 volt system and uses either a 10 or 16 pin IDC connector system, here are some images courtesy of the Doepfer DIY pages


You can see here how there is -12v on the bottom two pins, 3 ground pairs of pins and the +12v pair of pins. This is the configuration for 95% of modules with the other 5% using the remaining pairs for bus access for gate and CV and an extra 5v for those modules that need extra juice. Please read the Doepfer Technical pages for further info.

The above image is the same for the modules and the standard bus access boards in most modular cases.

Please note that I will use "most" quite a bit as some manufacturers have strayed from this "standard", but hopefully from the info here you can work out any abnormality.

1. The first step you must make is identify what the configuration is for the bus boards in your modular case. Mostly the main manufacturers will follow the Doepfer standard having -12v on the bottom, but take a minute and check.


2. Second step is to identify on your module where -12v is on the PCB. This will usually be marked with -12v, "red stripe" or some other variation. If there is nothing there maybe post a question in this thread and someone will answer.


3. Third on the surface seems simple- match the bus boards to the module using the ribbon cable. In my experience this is where the big mistakes happen.

NEVER TRUST A RIBBON CABLE! NEVER TRUST THE RED STRIPE

Ribbon cables are not always built to a standard even though they are meant to be. You must always check the cables before connecting anything.

Go and grab a ribbon cable, have a close look at the header component. You should see a small triangle marked on one side. Now in an ideal world all the cables you have should have the red band of the cable matched up to this triangle, as this is the correct way to build them- using the red band and triangles as -12v, meaning when plugged into a bus board with keyed headers (black plastic things, not just pins like on the doepfer bus boards) the power is correctly aligned.

So when a module has "red stripe" on the PCB it is assumed that it is referencing the -12v.

In my short time of euro-accumulating I have had cables built with one end having the red stripe matched to the triangle and the other end not- boom kapow hiss, instant voltage reversal, and other cables built perfectly backwards, with both triangles not aligned to the red stripe. This is kinda ok if you don't have keyed headers, but if you do have keyed headers and you have to twist the cable to plug it in- boom, kapow, hiss yr module is fried. SO again:

NEVER TRUST A RIBBON CABLE! NEVER TRUST THE RED STRIPE

So after step 3 you will have identified the + and - power from yr busboards, identified the + and - on your module, have checked the ribbon cable's construction to ensure the red stripe is the same both ends- ideally matching the small triangle- you can now plug it in thumbs up

The only modules I haven't had experience with are Cwejman, and I know there is something funny with those, so if someone can chime in, but by following this procedure for every module I've bought either new or second-hand I've never fried a module (fingers crossed).

I'll try and add some more pics to this, espeically of the cables, plus I'll show you an easy way to reclaim a improperly built ribbon cable. But this should get you a little further to sonic joy.
Kent
spbaker wrote:
NEVER TRUST A RIBBON CABLE! NEVER TRUST THE RED STRIPE


That is so true. Whenever I'm ultra-super-scary-unsure, I test a module in my Analogue Systems case as each rail has an independent fuse that will blow in order to to protect a mis-cabled module. I have yet to destroy a module with that case but have destroyed many fuses in figuring this stuff out. The Analogue Systems Doepfer connector pinout is as follows and as tested by me:

Doepfer Male Pins:
1) The 2 columns are in parallel
2) Starting from the top down:
Pin 1 = -12v
Pin 5 = +12V
Pin 6 = 5V
All the rest are 0V although I didn't bother to find out which ones are actually tied to ground. It could be that some are floating.


So, for the sake of ease: "The upper most pin is your -12VDC". This is where the red stripe of your ribbon should go for the Doepfer standard. This is the exact opposite of what was chosen for the Analogue Systems standard. Their red strip goes to 0V.

Cwejman modules follow their own standard as well. This is especially evident when looking at the tiny connector on the module-side of cable. Please read this PDF file that is from the Cwejman site:
Cwejman Ribbon Cables


The older Analogue Solutions sequencing modules were not consistent in their adherence to the -12VDC = Red Stripe philosophy. Sometimes, the keyed header would not allow for the correct orientation to be made. I have often clipped off the header or sanded it flat. Or changed the cable. This doesn't apply to modules that have been made in recent history, but should be noticed for the older ones.[/b]

These viddys are also helpful:






This thread has now been 'Stickied For Reference'. It may only be temporary depending upon many factors. This matter is an important one but may be left to entropy in the future.
metasonix
spbaker wrote:
You can see here how there is -12v on the bottom two pins, 3 ground pairs of pins and the +12v pair of pins.

That's the orientation that Metasonix uses. The "red stripe" doesn't matter, because those header plugs that Doepfer uses have no polarity.

(And I didn't realize that Analogue Systems was using a keyed connector until well after we ordered the PC boards....oops)

I once asked Dieter why he didn't use Molex power connectors that had keying--he said "the headers are cheaper". In a happy world, the modules would have connectors attached permanently to the PCB, and the connector would always be polarized so they could not be connected incorrectly. Euro became the dominant format for one major reason: cheaper.

(My question: why don't all the module makers use protection diodes??)
Kent
metasonix wrote:

(My question: why don't all the module makers use protection diodes??)


This question has been posed many times here on Muff's. It's definitely a head-scratcher to be sure. It costs next to nothing to do so which is very much unlike the cost associated with sending blown modules back and forth and some poor guy's time in repairing them.

I think that STG Soundlabs is putting them in as standard. I remember a thread in which that was mentioned but I can't find it.
Scottzilla
metasonix wrote:

(My question: why don't all the module makers use protection diodes??)


I don't know about anybody else, but I started putting them in stuff I make right from the beginning just because it seemed so easy to hook modules up backwards.
DanielW
OK, forgive me if this is a dumb question: Just bought an Analogue Solutions module, LFO-NZ.

On this module, the red stripe is clearly connected to the side on the PCB that says "stripe". So far so good. My MW busboards have keyed headers, i e cables can only be inserted one way.

Now the possibly dumb question: as I have clearly identified the red stripe being connected to the module's negative, which happens to be UP on the module, and I know that the bus board negative is DOWN, is it still wrong to twist the cable? That way the red stripe would be facing the negative in both ends.

Or am I missing something here?
Scottzilla
Physically twisting the cable doesn't matter as long as it's not electrically "twisted". ...meaning if you've got the red stripe on the negative side of the connector on the module, and at the other end have the red stripe on the negative side of the bus-board connector, you're good to go. You've got negative hooked to negative.

Physically the connectors might be any orientation depending on what the module designer was feeling like (negative up, negative down, negative right, etc.).
DanielW
Scottzilla wrote:
Physically twisting the cable doesn't matter as long as it's not electrically "twisted". ...meaning if you've got the red stripe on the negative side of the connector on the module, and at the other end have the red stripe on the negative side of the bus-board connector, you're good to go. You've got negative hooked to negative.

Physically the connectors might be any orientation depending on what the module designer was feeling like (negative up, negative down, negative right, etc.).


Thanks for the advice. Nothing burned. It's peanut butter jelly time!
Reptil
cwejman
www.cwejman.net/ribbon_cable.pdf

these modules have protection diodes
ignatius
Reptil wrote:
cwejman
www.cwejman.net/ribbon_cable.pdf

these modules have protection diodes


so, the red stripe goes up then. glad they are protected.
sonicwarrior
Is there are drawing somewhere which shows the configuration of the Analogue Systems power/bus connector?

The video below gives some hints, but nothing exact.
dkronemyer
Is there a source that can make a power cable adapter with an Analogue Systems connector on one end to a Doepfer connector on the other end. I have an old AS rack that has space for some Doepfer modules but the power connectors of course are completely different even though the voltages are the same.
Automageddon
Thanks for this thread!
I put yesterday the first modules in place on a Doepfer rack, I followed your advice of matching the triangle (-12) to the -12 and all is fine!

Guinness ftw!
JBVries
Many thanks indeed!!
Mans
Regarding Cwejman: I've connected a MMF-1 with the red stripe down in a Doepfer case (there's only way to connect the cable to the module). According to the PDF attached above this is wrong.. but the thing is it was working just fine.

So I checked the cable and found that the triangle is on the red side on one end and on the other it is not.

So have I unknowingly made the right connection after all by connecting red down because the cable is 'wrong'?

Please help lol
haven
Mans wrote:
Regarding Cwejman: I've connected a MMF-1 with the red stripe down in a Doepfer case (there's only way to connect the cable to the module). According to the PDF attached above this is wrong.. but the thing is it was working just fine.

So I checked the cable and found that the triangle is on the red side on one end and on the other it is not.

So have I unknowingly made the right connection after all by connecting red down because the cable is 'wrong'?

Please help lol



the red stripe on Cwejman modules is marking +12v. So it is up when plugged into a bus board. The first post in this thread explains what the red stripe means. Please read it as understanding the fundamentals alleviates confusion.

edit- grammar fail
Mans
I figured it out. Sorry for adding any noise to this thread.
novielo
does anybody know what is the part number for the 10 pin connector with digikey? i just can't figure how to find it on their site.

thanks
polyroy
First batch of Cwejman don't have protective circuits in according to Wowa. I fried the second channel of my D-LFO which is serial number 004 by plugging it red stripe up, but the cable was oriented to be red stripe down. Always triple check!!!! Luckily, I was able to send it back to Cwejman to get it repaired for free, great customer service.
Demi Jon
Received this in an email from Laurie at Elby, thought it might be helpful:

Quote:
The power connector issue is a bit of a nuisance and need never have happened if Doepfer had been sensible when they started. They, unfortunately like many companies that have followed, did not enforce proper control of the manufacturing of their power cables and along with the use of open headers on both their modules and busboards leads to potential problems every time.

I always use boxed headers which automatically polarises the socket and forces the power connector to go in the `correct’ way each time. HOWEVER,, if you are using power cables from other suppliers, there is still the risk of there being a wiring problem.

There are 2 factors for considering the suitability of a cable.

My Panther cables are TECHNICALLY correct and MECHANICALLY correct. By this I mean:-

TECHNICALLY – pin 1 of the cable (stripe) goes to pin 1 of the connector

MECHANICALLY – pin 1 of one connector goes to pin 1 of the other connector.

If a cable meets both these criteria then it should be insertable in any Doepfer compatible system without problems and following the Doepfer guideline of `stripe down’ i.e. pin 1 of module connector goes to pin 1 of busboard connector which are both at the bottom when viewed normally.

With Panther modules you have no option at the module end because being polarised, pin 1 is always at the bottom and the cable can go in only one way. Using Panther cables ensures that you will have no problem and pin 1 WILL be the stripe and WILL b -12V.

Some cables are MECHANICALLY correct but TECHNICALLY incorrect. In this case the pin 1 of one connector goes to pin 1 of the other connector. However, pin 1 of the wire (stripe) is NOT connected to pin 1 of the connector. This is not a problem with open headers as you simply follow the `stripe down’ rule and you will be assured of a good connection. Using these cables with my panther modules will cause a slight problem as the stripe will be in the UP position due to the polarising feature of the connector and thus the `stripe down’ rule cannot be applied and you would need to plug this cable in to the busboard with the stripe up.

In the worst case scenario a cable maybe TECHNICALLY and MECHANICALLY wrong i.e. no only does pin 1 of the cable not go to pin 1 of the connector but the stripe at one end goes to pin 1 while t the other end it goes to pin 16 – i.e. a twisted cable. This can be made to work on systems with open headers but the stripe down rule goes out the door.

As you can see, there are a multitude of cable permutations with varying degrees of compatibility. With systems using open headers the emphasis is on checking the cable arrangement. On systems using boxed headers you need to do some extra checking.

The first 2 cable arrangements are easy to check. Hold each end of the cable and feel for the polarising bump on one of the longer faces of each connector. If they are both on the same side (i.e. both on the left or both on the right) then the cable is a straight-thru cable and can be freely used in systems with open headers following the stripe down rule.

Putting all this to one side. If a module has the -12V pins marked and the busboards are also similarly marked then it is simply a matter of plugging the cable in at the module end, noting which edge of the cable is at the bottom (nearest the -12V pin) and follow that edge to the busboard end making sure that when plugged here it also has the same edge nearest the -12V pin. If you follow this rule then you won’t go wrong no matter what cable permutation you have nor whether a module has open or boxed headers.

NOTE: if a busboard has boxed headers (like mine do) then you MUST check the cables fully because you will not have any flexibility here and the cable must be TECHNICALLY and MECHANICALLY correct.

I will try and get some photos put together and do a 1-pager and add it to my web page……
milkyjoe
hmmm, Ok, so just out of frustrated curiosity,

how is one to know where the -12 is on the headers on the modules pcb when there are absolutely no markings on the pcb to signify (or any info on "da "internet" ?

Another question:

are keyed bus boards(in my case: uZeus flying but boards) only meant to work with certain euro modules ?

So, maybe i missed the disclaimer then ?

wtf ?

---- emailed from my bananularphone

sad banana MY ASS IS BLEEDING
BananaPlug
milkyjoe wrote:
hmmm, Ok, so just out of frustrated curiosity,

how is one to know where the -12 is on the headers on the modules pcb when there are absolutely no markings on the pcb to signify (or any info on "da "internet" ?


It's not that hard. The "info on da internet" is in the first post of this thread. Look at the picture. That shows you the connector layout as seen from the component side of the board.
echoplex
Anyone know how to connect the Doepfer 5V Adapter to a regular Doepfer Bus Board?
Any Pictures or videos of this?
I just don't get it .. call me a loser Lolhammer!
sandyb
echoplex wrote:
Anyone know how to connect the Doepfer 5V Adapter to a regular Doepfer Bus Board?
Any Pictures or videos of this?
I just don't get it .. call me a loser Lolhammer!


just plug it into an unused connector on the busboard - turn the power off first obviously.
the 5v led should light up on the busboard when you power on again.
construct09
I,m confused... If I get a module that requires +5/-5, I have to dedicate that whole busboard to modules with similiar power requirements?? Is there a list of suppliers/modules that do not adhere to the +12/-12 in euro? ...Idon,t think I want them... seriously, i just don't get it
dan_k
construct09 wrote:
I,m confused... If I get a module that requires +5/-5, I have to dedicate that whole busboard to modules with similiar power requirements?? Is there a list of suppliers/modules that do not adhere to the +12/-12 in euro? ...Idon,t think I want them... seriously, i just don't get it


Some modules require +5V in addition to +/- 12V.

Check this recent thread and it will hopefully explain everything:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41879
construct09
dan_k wrote:
construct09 wrote:
I,m confused... If I get a module that requires +5/-5, I have to dedicate that whole busboard to modules with similiar power requirements?? Is there a list of suppliers/modules that do not adhere to the +12/-12 in euro? ...Idon,t think I want them... seriously, i just don't get it


Some modules require +5V in addition to +/- 12V.

Check this recent thread and it will hopefully explain everything:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41879


sorry...still don,t get it... if I put a regulator on a busboard to power 1 module that requires the additional +5, I can,t run modues that dont require the +5 on that same busboard?... they will be damaged?
sandyb
construct09

you can run any modules on the busboard that has the 5v regulator. ones that don't need the 5v are not affected in any way.
construct09
fuck...thats a relief
thankyou sandyb thumbs up
hollowman
Stickies like this make me feel so good to have found this forum.
It makes silly things easy. Guinness ftw!
I wanted to add a 5v adapter for a Asol module, unsure about how it would affect my other modules on the same bus board, remember to check here - and there was the answer!! thumbs up
construct09
Can someone direct me to a thread regarding powering the Asys modules from a doepfer busboard? I have the correct cable but I,m still not clear on the orientation of the stripe...
Also, do Asys modules require the additional +5?
cheers.....

EDIT: O.K i watched the seond video which makes it clear
Drumdrumdrumdrum
Here is a link to the Tip Top active buss board manual:

http://www.analoguehaven.com/tiptopaudio/zeus1200maquick/manual.pdf
withakay
I just switched on my case to have a wiggle and it is dead :(

The last module I added was a CV Tools, I put it in the case but I don't remember if I have powered it up since then.

The cable was connected as per the manual.

Last time I calculated my power usage I was at less than half, since then I have added a Cyclebox (which was working fine) and the then CV Tools, now nothing. I really wish I could remember if I have power up with the CV Tools or not. I don't *think* I had.

I have a Doepfer LC-9, any advice on how to trouble shoot.
I have checked the mains lead...

huh?
withakay
The fuse in the rear power connector has blown. Ho hum.
causticlogic
what about +12V vs -12V power supplies? would there be any difference in cabling the modules to the busboard provided the supply is hooked up to the busboard correctly?
my guess is no, but i've been known to have been wrong once...or twice...or :cough:1783timesorso:cough:.
Zenn
milkyjoe wrote:
hmmm, Ok, so just out of frustrated curiosity,

how is one to know where the -12 is on the headers on the modules pcb when there are absolutely no markings on the pcb to signify (or any info on "da "internet" ?


Just to have the picture again, the connector:
oo| GATE
oo| CV
oo| +5V
oo| +12V
oo| GND
oo| GND
oo| GND
oo| -12V


GATE/CV are not always used, so if you have any unconnected 4 pins on one side, you know what side is 'up'. Please also do test 2:

It's common for PCB designs to have al the 6 GND pins connected to eachother. Also, its very common for PCBs to have very fat GND paths, so it's quite easy to see what points from the connector are supposed to be GND.
bg1979
moved question, thx.
wbkennedy1
Is it possible that my Bubblesound SEM module with keyed power cable has been keyed on the wrong side? I plug it into my keyed flying bus boards of my uzeus and the red stripes don't line up. And ya know since both are keyed, I can't reverse the ay they plug. Ok no problem I said, this forum said never to trust the red stripes, so I turned it on and tried to connect it to patch ithe +12 and the +5 light on the uzeus module went off and I got some strange noises when I plugged in headphones...I'm very new to this so any help would be appreciatted greatly! I guess I could cut the keyed part off with a knife so I could line up the red stripes..
onohobo
Thanks for this topic. I just installed my first eurorack and found the information very helpful.
PaulLawler
Hi,

Apologies as I'm sure it must have been covered but I need to make 100% of a connection.

I want to connect an Analogue Systems module to a Doepfer rack, and the cable I was sent for it is not quite what I ordered, however it looks as though they sent me a cable which at one end plugs directly into the Doepfer bus, and at the other end plugs directly into the module with a 16 pin socket.

The Red stripe on the cable has 0v written at the top which matches the AS module, with -12v at the bottom.

Which way does the red stripe need to be when I put it into the Doepfer, top or bottom ?

many thanks

Paul
DiogoMagalhães
hey!

i don't see the little triangle it was talked about in this thread..without this information how can i be sure? should i connect it with the red stripe without questioning if it's bad manufactured ? i'm a bit lost here
flabby
^+1

Has anyone used Acidlab POW? There's no indication as to which end is +12 and which is -12.
flabby
Well I spoke to Klaus and he said: "the lowest two pins are -12V, then there are three 2xpins ground and then +12V, same as the doepfer."

So that's that confirmed if anyone is wondering!
Jason Brock
spbaker wrote:
NEVER TRUST A RIBBON CABLE! NEVER TRUST THE RED STRIPE


Best advice for sure. The first thing I look for is to see if the manufacturer labeled -12v on the circuit board, but unfortunately there are quite a few who don't put it on there.

Here's a good example. I received a brand new Cwejman MMF-1 today from Big City Music. It shipped with the ribbon cable loose in the box, so I had to figure out which way to connect it to the module. But as seen below, the keyed connectors are facing opposite directions on the cable. That means it will fit into the back of the module flipped either way - red stripe up, or red stripe down. It is possible to connect it properly to your bus board either way, as long as you know which pins on the module are -12v. But that isn't marked on the Cwejman module.

jafbox
Jason Brock wrote:
spbaker wrote:
NEVER TRUST A RIBBON CABLE! NEVER TRUST THE RED STRIPE


Best advice for sure. The first thing I look for is to see if the manufacturer labeled -12v on the circuit board, but unfortunately there are quite a few who don't put it on there.

Here's a good example. I received a brand new Cwejman MMF-1 today from Big City Music. It shipped with the ribbon cable loose in the box, so I had to figure out which way to connect it to the module. But as seen below, the keyed connectors are facing opposite directions on the cable. That means it will fit into the back of the module flipped either way - red stripe up, or red stripe down. It is possible to connect it properly to your bus board either way, as long as you know which pins on the module are -12v. But that isn't marked on the Cwejman module.



hi jason, im in the exact same boat right now... which way is correct the module? red stripe up or down? thanks!!
Jason Brock
jafbox wrote:
hi jason, im in the exact same boat right now... which way is correct the module? red stripe up or down? thanks!!


That's the thing - the red stripe doesn't matter. That wire is no different than the other wires.
The important thing is to find -12v on the module. In this case, it is at the bottom (closest to the edge). It's not written on there anywhere, but I just know because I've had other Cwejman modules.

If I connected the cable to the module as seen in the LEFT picture, I would plug the other end into my bus board with the red stripe UP.
If I connected the cable to the module as seen in the RIGHT picture, I would plug the other end into my bus board with the red stripe DOWN (because it is now carrying the -12v bus).

I fixed the picture to show -12v:

voidshell
Does anyone know how the Plan B modules power up?

I have a model 31 buffered Mult.

The board says Red Stripe on one side but it doesn't say whether that is + or - 12v.

Any help please Guinness ftw!
utamaru
if it specifically says red stripe then that's your -12
Quote:
2. Second step is to identify on your module where -12v is on the PCB. This will usually be marked with -12v, "red stripe" or some other variation. If there is nothing there maybe post a question in this thread and someone will answer.
Tifaret
wbkennedy1 wrote:
Is it possible that my Bubblesound SEM module with keyed power cable has been keyed on the wrong side? I plug it into my keyed flying bus boards of my uzeus and the red stripes don't line up. And ya know since both are keyed, I can't reverse the ay they plug. Ok no problem I said, this forum said never to trust the red stripes, so I turned it on and tried to connect it to patch ithe +12 and the +5 light on the uzeus module went off and I got some strange noises when I plugged in headphones...I'm very new to this so any help would be appreciatted greatly! I guess I could cut the keyed part off with a knife so I could line up the red stripes..


Did anyone ever answer this? I have the exact same problem with mine, hoping I didn't blow the module seriously, i just don't get it
wbkennedy1
Hey Tifaret,,

so i did solve this problem!
my power cable was connected backwards to the module. so I removed the header from the pcb and reversed it and then connected it to my flying bus boards of the uzeus.
the module was alright! hope this helps!
Tifaret
wbkennedy1 wrote:
Hey Tifaret,,

so i did solve this problem!
my power cable was connected backwards to the module. so I removed the header from the pcb and reversed it and then connected it to my flying bus boards of the uzeus.
the module was alright! hope this helps!


yup, exactly the problem with mine (we figured it out in another thread) thanks man!
radiodread87
I had not seen this diagram before so if it has already been posted then I apologise but Dave Jones posted this in another thread and I really thought it ought to be in this one

cartoonbomb
Hi guys, I just got a Borg2, and I wanted to check with you guys because the module's connector is not clearly marked.

It goes:

SV1
-
-
-
-
10

The ribbon was already hooked up with the red wire on the 10. I get that the wire doesn't matter, but I got this used so I want to assume that the 10 is the -12v. <- which it is, all is well

Also, I'm going to assume that the ribbon cable on my uZeus carry the -12v on the bottom pin...
cartoonbomb
Hey guys, the pic below is my new Pittsburgh Outs module, shown from the bottom. As you can see, the bottom pin leading to the blue wire is labeled "10". Not shown is the top pin, which is labeled "SV1". Curiously, it is the same labels as the Borg2 , only reversed.

So does anyone know which pin is the -12V? I ask because if it is the bottom pin, then the connector is keyed incorrectly. The only way to get it in is to twist in around, which would connect the top pin (SV1) to the -12V on the uZeus busboard.

If the bottom pin (10) is the -12V, then I will have to reverse the ribbon on the module end, but I can't because the outputs don't give me any clearance for the cable! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[/img]

Alrighty so I went ahead and flipped it around on the module end, because apparently the connector on the busboard end is backwards. There is enough clearance, but I don't like the look of it :\



But now, I think I have another problem! The wires are oriented to the top!

Upright
cartoonbomb wrote:
Hey guys, the pic below is my new Pittsburgh Outs module]



Did you ever get this sorted out?
daikaiju
I recently bought a Doepfer a-138m (the matrix mixer), but now I'm stumped as far as figuring out what the proper orientation of the power connection is. I can't make out any symbols, and since the circuit board is parallel with the faceplate instead of perpendicular, I can't follow the directions from the normal Doepfer example.

Help!
cartoonbomb
Upright wrote:
cartoonbomb wrote:
Hey guys, the pic below is my new Pittsburgh Outs module]



Did you ever get this sorted out?


Yeah, the Pittsburgh folks sent me a new corrected ribbon. the only other solution would have been to file off the key notch.
Upright
cartoonbomb wrote:


Yeah, the Pittsburgh folks sent me a new corrected ribbon. the only other solution would have been to file off the key notch.



Awesome, so on that module is the SV1 the -12V side?
Maratets
Hey guys! Not exactly the "connecting the modules to the bus board" issue, but as it pertains to power supply this seems to be the right thread to post it in.

It looks that something's wrong with the -12 V supply in my case (Doepfer low cost 9U case). The -12V LED is off on all three buses (the +12 is on, as is the +5 where the adapter is plugged in) and most modules act funny (no sound and indicators are working, but clearly not the way they should). The other cases I have are fine, and the same modules work there. So I figure the -12V supply does not work properly.

I've been reshuffling my modules yesterday, and it is quite possible I've ended up with slightly more current draw in that case than it is supposed to house. However, if this is the reason for the malfunction, it seems strange to me that only the -12V supply has been affected.

Is it really possible to damage the power supply by drawing more current than it is meant for? I could have gone some 100-150 mA overboard in an 1,2 A board and only had it on like that for a few minutes. and no part of the unit seemed to be overheated or cooked, the fuse seems to be OK as well. And, if it is indeed possible, why would only the -12V line go dead?

Is there anything I could check by myself, before I have to send it out for repair? I wouldn't want to risk any procedures reserved for electronics specialists, but it could be that something stupidly easy that I am overlooking.

Thanks in advance for any help.
GuyaGuy
n00b question here...I'll post it here since it might help other n00bs.

I'm new to the bipolar power supplies that Euro uses. I get the -12 issue that this thread is about and was careful about hooking up my first units correctly. What I'm wondering about is the -/+12 supply. Am I correct in believing that many modules can run off -12 or -12? And that, with the HEK, there are 2 busses--one for +12 (top) and one for -12 ) bottom? If so are there modules that only run on -12 or +12?

pnyboer
Which is -12V on the malekko pin header? They are labeled 1 and 10. I see a post above wrt to the Borg2, but I don't see an answer!
Thanks
Peter
bezier
Today i finally received my Tiptop HEK, felt like christmas. However i now encounter a problem connecting it.

I did not yet connect any module. When i connect the uZeus and turn it on, only the +12V and -12V lights are illuminated. In the manual it explicitly says
Quote:
If for any reason, one or all of them are not illuminated then immediately turn
the switch to the ‘OFF’ position.


I dont see what is going on? Is something not right? I am a bit frightened something blows up seriously, i just don't get it


edit:
Ridiculously fast service at Schneidersladen helped me out, i did not put a 15V jumper in it. Now everything runs and blinks smoothly.
Mock3000
Hi all, just built a brand new modular system built into Pittsburgh's cell 90 cases and am having a bit of a mismatch with a couple of division 6 pieces. The cell 90s cable is keyed with the negative opposite of what the division 6 filtare requires. Any idea of a solution?
HIMA
if not for this thread, things could have gone horribly wrong. we're not worthy
johnnylonz
I was wondering if anyone has experience connecting an Analogue Systems module to a doepfer style bus board (I'm using a FoH bus board with keyed headers).

I have an RS60 with an Asys cable connected with the red line up at the 0v marking, like so:



this cable runs into an adapter like this:




which then lines up with my busboard properly with the red line down at -12v:



The problem is that the key on the header going into the busboard is on the left side of the cable, whereas the key on the busboard is on the right side. Any idea what I might need to do? Maybe "flip" the entire cable/adapter combo so it's the opposite on both ends? I.e., leave the cable & adapter attached but switch it so the red line on the Asys end is at -12v and on the doepfer end is at +12v?
mackster
hello world - this is my first post so sorry for duplicating a question that may have been answered before, but as a noob I can't search the forums yet...

I've got a bunch of modules on their way to me, and the 2nd to arrive (after the lovely e350) is a sem20.

Anyway, out of the box, the red strip on the power lead that connects to the sem20, where the pcb is marked "red band" is presumably correct, but the keyed end of the ribbon that connects into the power strip of the uzeus has the red strip on the opposite side to the power strips red strip.

Is this ok, or is it crossing the streams bad?

I can see from this sticky that other people have discussed this, but I don't want to fry my new eurorack by thinking I've understood a solution and potentially not.

So would someone mind (please) explaining how I can hook this
Module up and get wiggling!

Thanks
NU
Can anyone confirm that -12V is at the bottom for MFB modules? There's nothing marked on the module, manual just refers to the stripe on the ribbon cable.
ben_hex
Can anyone help regarding a Borg 2 filter. Plug was installed on the module already im presuming red stripe down on the bus board. Can't see any negative -12V markings on the board or the triangle on the connector itself.
ben_hex
Hopefully a few pictures will help.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/2fj7gjwngdug6tl/IMAG0462.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9mr8mbvsots77xf/IMAG0463.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bkubf3bpt0mklac/IMAG0464.jpg
ben_hex
I've realised that it must be red stripe down. As you can see in the pictures there's no connection to the top 3 pins. Which makes sense as it doesn't take cv gate or 5v from the board. d'oh!
windspirit
IT...IS...ALIVE!!!!!

Lol thought I'd share some research I just had to do:

shrouded power connector (dist. board side):

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1-1634688-6/A104861-ND/334027 4?CSRT=12127286227944482114&CSRT=7686995753391504211

The spacing for power connector pins is 2.54 mm or .1"
gliiitches
Kind of related to the power topic... I'm a bit confused about power consumption.

I'm about to order a 9u Doepfer case about half filled with Doepfer modules. I'll probably order a couple of Make Noise ones too. This will be my first ever modular system.

How do I ensure the modules I'm putting in the case don't exceed the power it can supply?
Dcramer
I use modular grid to keep track of the power, and compare it to the power supply specs, keeping some overhead in mind.
zebulun
hey guys, I am having troubles connecting my new a132-3 to my uzeus, the pic shows what the ribbon cable looks like, my only question is, where is the -12v on the end going to the uzeus? is it the top where the triangle is? I've looked over this topic a bunch of times and I'm still confused lol, sorry for the dumb question and thanks for the help.
zebulun
hey guys, I am having troubles connecting my new a132-3 to my uzeus, the pic shows what the ribbon cable looks like, my only question is, where is the -12v on the end going to the uzeus? is it the top where the triangle is? I've looked over this topic a bunch of times and I'm still confused lol, sorry for the dumb question and thanks for the help.
zebulun
nevermind, I figured it out. just have to file down the nib on the keyed header going into the uzeus and everything should work.
kd2ajn
Hey,

Everybody on this thread is talking about hooking the power in backwards, but when I plugged in my new pittsburgh and intellijel modules into the uZeus, the plug was shaped where it couldn't go in backwards.
Are newer manufacturers implementing this new kind of plug?
JohnLRice
kd2ajn wrote:
Hey,

Everybody on this thread is talking about hooking the power in backwards, but when I plugged in my new pittsburgh and intellijel modules into the uZeus, the plug was shaped where it couldn't go in backwards.
Are newer manufacturers implementing this new kind of plug?
Some are, some are not from what I've seen. seriously, i just don't get it
Dcramer
Some modules have been built with the keyed connector in backward!
File them flat so you can flip them over.
Don't plug it in just because it fits, always check to makes sure the polarity is correct!! w00t
widgetoz
It's usually not the header on the board that's wrong but the cable itself. The one in the drawing below is WRONG. Pin 1 (the arrow) is supposed to be -12V in a properly terminated cable.
I strongly recommend replacing the cable and not modifying it by filing bits off. In the future you could forget and use the cable elsewhere and get it wrong again.
Dcramer
widgetoz wrote:
I strongly recommend replacing the cable and not modifying it by filing bits off. In the future you could forget and use the cable elsewhere and get it wrong again.

That's good advice. It would be easy to sell it to an unsuspecting user. Infact that's how I got mine that are screwed up! I put a label on them to remind me. hmmm.....
Jaaky
Using a combination of Analogue Systems, Cwejman, and other modules, I finally got myself, a roll of ribbon cable, connectors, and one of those pliers to squeeze them together... Best thing I ever did, also to accommodate different lengths. Of course I mark the cables for the modules they're for...
Dcramer
Where were you able to get the ribbon and connectors?
Jaaky
Dcramer wrote:
Where were you able to get the ribbon and connectors?


I live in the Netherlands and found the tool and the ribbon cable in a good electronics components store that has also digital stuff. The cable can be stripped to the right width if needed. The Doepfer kind connectors I found on eBay. They are called IDC Sockets (10 or 16 pins).
itege
To help resolve my paranoia, can someone with a DPO in a HEK please post a pic of their power cables, I'm all worried I'm going to screw up when my stuff gets here.
benephilia
Hi all,

I've just got the components for my first modular except for the filter and wanted to test it out with a filter in ableton live (until the filter module arrives)

I've noticed that the tip top happy ending kit power supply has three places to connect the ribbon cables (+5v, +12v, -12v) and I'm concerned that i might damage the modules connecting them to the wrong power supply.

the modules are...

pittsburgh modular oscillator
pittsburgh modular in/out
pittsburgh modular filter (on its way)
doepfer a-192-2 (cv to midi/usb)
doepfer a-140 (adsr)
doepfer a-145 (lfo)

ive noticed that on modular grid it says things like 20 mA -12v and 20 mA +12v
(doepfer a-145)

does this mean it can connect to either?

and if anyone could tell how to connect it and why that would be great for futere reference
sonicwarrior
benephilia wrote:
I've noticed that the tip top happy ending kit power supply has three places to connect the ribbon cables (+5v, +12v, -12v)


Can't be. You are connecting the module to the bus board, not directly to the power supply. And for the bus board you can only have the orientation wrong. See the first posting for more info. It should also give you the information where on the bus board you have to connect +5V, +12V, -12V and ground.
benephilia
sonicwarrior wrote:
benephilia wrote:
I've noticed that the tip top happy ending kit power supply has three places to connect the ribbon cables (+5v, +12v, -12v)


Can't be. You are connecting the module to the bus board, not directly to the power supply. And for the bus board you can only have the orientation wrong. See the first posting for more info. It should also give you the information where on the bus board you have to connect +5V, +12V, -12V and ground.



when i say connecting to the power supply i mean the uZEUS on my tip top happy ending kit, my question is, does the ribbon cable on the tip top kit need to be connected to the +5v, +12v or -12v port which then connects to the individual modules

there are two ribbon cables included and I'm not sure where to connect them on the actual uZEUS power supply (which is then plugged into the wall sockets) and also which modules should connect to which ribbon cable (for example, should I connect one ribbon cable to the +12v and another cable to the -12v, and which modules should plug into each (e.g. the LFO into the +12v ribbon and the ADSR into the -12v ribbon))

Can this be put into simple terms in a broken down step-by-step format (or something to that effect), as this will make it significantly easier for me to understand your replies - I'm quite new to this.
sonicwarrior
His own thread is here:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=91364&start=0&postda ys=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
Lots of replies there already.
Upright
Is -12 on Maths at the bottom of the module?
z3r01
Upright wrote:
Is -12 on Maths at the bottom of the module?


There's a photo, and a brief description, of the -12V in the Maths manual:

http://www.makenoisemusic.com/manuals/MATHSmanual2013.pdf

thumbs up
Upright
z3r01 wrote:
Upright wrote:
Is -12 on Maths at the bottom of the module?


There's a photo, and a brief description, of the -12V in the Maths manual:

http://www.makenoisemusic.com/manuals/MATHSmanual2013.pdf

thumbs up



Ah thanks. So -12 is on the right hand side of the module when looking at the PCB. Thanks, I have a Maths on order, just wanted to be sure before it arrives. I was looking at the old Maths PDF, had no idea that the Maths 2013 had a different manual.
z3r01
Upright wrote:
z3r01 wrote:
Upright wrote:
Is -12 on Maths at the bottom of the module?


There's a photo, and a brief description, of the -12V in the Maths manual:

http://www.makenoisemusic.com/manuals/MATHSmanual2013.pdf

thumbs up



Ah thanks. So -12 is on the right hand side of the module when looking at the PCB. Thanks, I have a Maths on order, just wanted to be sure before it arrives. I was looking at the old Maths PDF, had no idea that the Maths 2013 had a different manual.


If I didn't remember wrongly, both the older version of Maths, and the newer Maths 2013, have the connectors exactly at the same place. Anyways, the -12V is indicated on the back of the Maths 2013. thumbs up
Upright
z3r01 wrote:


If I didn't remember wrongly, both the older version of Maths, and the newer Maths 2013, have the connectors exactly at the same place. Anyways, the -12V is indicated on the back of the Maths 2013. thumbs up


Ok, perfect. Thank you. grin
Upright
Got all 10 of my modules today. I took my time, made sure -12 on each module was connected to -12 on the bus board and I didn't have a single problem. thumbs up Hallelujah!
sonicwarrior
On mine the red stripe for -12 goes towards the left side so I guess you have a different Maths version. Which one is it?
Upright
sonicwarrior wrote:
On mine the red stripe for -12 goes towards the left side so I guess you have a different Maths version. Which one is it?



I have the 2013 edition. grin
wavejumperr
I'm having trouble finding resources for my question so i'll ask here.

I just received my enclave case with Make Noise powered bus boards. However, I'm short, just one power bus. I do have a couple extra Tiptop Audio Flying Busboards lying around so I'm wondering if it would be safe to attach one of those for the extra power buses.

Also, I've already calculated the maximum consumption and it's within a safe range. I just have a lot of low-power, small modules.
Thanks.
wavejumperr
Make Noise tech support got back to me about my power question:

"Sure, as long as you install the flying bus board with correct orientation AND you do not exceed the current limitations of the MN Bus Board YES.

For the Bus Board: Supplies +12V @ 1.4A, -12V @ 1A, +5V @ 250mA
For the Mini-PWR: Supplies +12V @ 1A, -12V @ 500mA, +5V @ 250mA"


I'll leave this here in case another wiggler is wondering the same thing.
Jaetten
Hello. I would like to connect my Doepfer A155 to my Uzeus. The problem is tough that the ribbon connection is to small to fit in the Uzeus and if it was big enough then it would only fit in such a direction that the red line of the module and the uzeus would be on oposite sides. So im wondering if i should replace the small ribbon contact with a regular-size one (or are there converters?) and if i should put it in the same direction as the one that is currently there or rather in such a direction that it would be possible to put the red lines on the same side?
gromit
Hey
I have a power related question, so I figured I would post it here.
I'm planning on buying an Erthenvar Lunchbox, and since I live in Australia I was wondering if it would be ok to just buy a step down transformer/adaptor for 240V to 110V so that it would be able to use the Atari AC power supply that can be bought with it. Or is there a simpler way?
Apologies for my lack of knowledge.

Here is the link:
http://erthenvar.com/store/lunchbox
HappySampler
I have a Harvestman Polivoks VCF and the board doesnt appear to be marked in any way, Can anyone help identify the negative pin?

Secondly the cable it came with has the red stripe at opposite ends to the triangle on end 1, but the triangle lines up correctly with the stripe on end 2.





HappySampler
Ok so regardless of the arrow on the connectors, as long as I connect the red stripe to my supply's red and the other end to the modules -12 I'm good.

Just need to know which side of the VCF the -12 is on when viewed from the back?
Nantonos
Follow the PCB traces from the euro header to the two polarized electrolytic capacitors. Then work out the capacitor polarity. On one of them, the positive lead goes to GND and the negative lead goes to -12V (red stripe). On the other, positive goes to +12V and negative to GND.
antofthesky
Please delete this! Question was answered elsewhere. Thanks! smile Sorry again for double-post.
mookmoof
Quote:
Go and grab a ribbon cable, have a close look at the header component. You should see a small triangle marked on one side. Now in an ideal world all the cables you have should have the red band of the cable matched up to this triangle, as this is the correct way to build them- using the red band and triangles as -12v, meaning when plugged into a bus board with keyed headers (black plastic things, not just pins like on the doepfer bus boards) the power is correctly aligned...
In my short time of euro-accumulating I have had cables built with one end having the red stripe matched to the triangle and the other end not- boom kapow hiss, instant voltage reversal, and other cables built perfectly backwards, with both triangles not aligned to the red stripe. This is kinda ok if you don't have keyed headers, but if you do have keyed headers and you have to twist the cable to plug it in- boom, kapow, hiss yr module is fried


I have a ribbon connector with triangle and red stripe on same side plugged into -12 of module. The other end of the ribbon has the triangle and red stripe on opposite sides. Do I plug red stripe or triangle side into -12 on the bus board? Thanks.
mookmoof
I got it cleared up. The last post on page 2 of this thread (by Demi Jon) helped me if anyone else needs a reference.
Onno
Hi All, I'm looking build a DIY Eurorack case and have been comparing Doepfer, Tiptop and analogue systems power supply kits. Anyone have a recommendation on which one to choose?
Best,
Onno
wotwot
As a general rule of thumb,

power does not care which colour the cable has it runs through.

finding out the orientation of a pin header on a module without printed help can be done by tracing the + and - 12V pinheads to the big electrolytic capacitors if there are any. their orientation (gray stripe goes to the lower potentiial side) will give a clear hint about which is which.
lyfer
EDIT: I think I just figured the answer to my question out, will repost if I didn't.

EDIT OF AN EDIT: Nope, I'm within bounds of the 1200mA limit of the PSU2. So here we go:


I just set up my first eurorack last night (9U Doepfer: A-100LC9 with PSU2). I'm pretty sure all the cables are plugged in correctly. I also installed a Mutable Instruments +5V adaptor on the bottom row (it only works for the row it's on, correct?).

So, with a mix of excitement and fear, I powered on the case. Only a couple modules lit up: the 4ms PEG when I pressed its buttons and the Make Noise Maths, although the LEDs of the latter seemed dim and somehow weird, but perhaps functionally so.

The Shapeshifter, Schippmann VCF-02, Pamela's Workout, and everything else in the case didn't light up.

Additionally, I heard a very noticeable hum, presumably coming from the PSU2. Nothing else is plugged into the outlet and I'm using a power conditioner which has never been problematic before.

I didn't keep it on for long and don't want to turn it on again as is out of fear I'll damage something.

What, if anything, could I have done wrong? How should I proceed?

Any help would be so greatly appreciated and thanks so much in advance to anyone who can help out a frustrated euro-n00b.
daverj
The most likely problem is that one of the modules is plugged in wrong.

That can happen in several ways. The plug could be up or down by one set of pins. Or the connector could be upside down.

Never blindly trust the stripes on the ribbons. You need to examine every module before you plug it in and check both ends of each ribbon to make sure that how it is connected on one end matches how you plan to plug it in on the other end.

To solve your current problem, if a quick look at the way the ribbons are plugged in doesn't make the problem obvious, then consider starting over and unplugging all modules.

Power the case on with no modules. Look at the bus boards and see the LEDs that light up. They show that the power rails are working.

Then plug in a module or two and power it up again. Look at those bus board LEDs and see if the same ones are still on. (the 5v one will be off unless you have added a 5v adapter to that row).

Keep going a few modules at a time, each time powering it up and looking at those bus board LEDs. As long as they are lit you should be good.
lyfer
I've been reading through this thread/elsewhere regarding connecting power correctly and thought I had everything correctly connected; but you are so obviously right and this is the obvious way to troubleshoot. Thanks for the good common sense advice.

Also, your(?) oscilloscope looks awesome and I'd love to fit it in a future build. Respect.
rhunt001
So I got my Doepfer A196 PLL but there's no indication of where -12V is on the pcb. Nothing in the manual.



The cable I got from Analogue Haven is the same one type I typically use, and I'm plugging into a uZeus flying bus board.

Why no stripe or #12 or sharpie dot? seriously, i just don't get it
JohnLRice
For general connection info see this document:
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/A100_intro_e.pdf

Specifically:
rhunt001
Ah, so without saying it outright, Doepfer modules tend to have the -12V on the bottom of the module as a rule? This is the way I received it from AH, and the way I followed it according to that manual, but when I powered up the suitcase there was no indication of power.

After plugging into the module and attempting to get some output, it still was not making any noises or lighting up... hmm. waah
JohnLRice
rhunt001 wrote:
Ah, so without saying it outright, Doepfer modules tend to have the -12V on the bottom of the module as a rule? This is the way I received it from AH, and the way I followed it according to that manual, but when I powered up the suitcase there was no indication of power.

After plugging into the module and attempting to get some output, it still was not making any noises or lighting up... hmm. waah

Well, I think there 'may" be exceptions so, be careful! If you are unsure you might want to wait until you can talk to someone who owns this module and can confirm some things for you.
rhunt001
JohnLRice wrote:
rhunt001 wrote:
Ah, so without saying it outright, Doepfer modules tend to have the -12V on the bottom of the module as a rule? This is the way I received it from AH, and the way I followed it according to that manual, but when I powered up the suitcase there was no indication of power.

After plugging into the module and attempting to get some output, it still was not making any noises or lighting up... hmm. waah

Well, I think there 'may" be exceptions so, be careful! If you are unsure you might want to wait until you can talk to someone who owns this module and can confirm some things for you.


That's what I was planning on doing. thumbs up There's too much risk of it being one of those exceptions to the rule.
johnwynberg
Questions similar to this one might be asked lots of times around here, but since I can’t find the answer I’m looking for, even after reading all the posts in this thread, here it goes... with my apologies in advance if I’m asking something too obvious.
I’m usually very careful when connecting my modules, but today I made a mistake with the polarity when connecting my Phonogene. I found out after switching on the case, a Make Noise 3U skiff, and wondering why the Phonogene didn’t seem to have power. I was so scared, thinking I might have fried the module. But after reversing the cable, the Phonogene is working ok, as if nothing had happened.
Do you think I might have still burned something in it? Does the Phonogene (and any other Make Noise modules) have some sort of (diodes?) protection against careless idiots like me? Or I was just plain lucky? (But I don’t think there is any luck involved when dealing with voltages...)
JohnLRice
I'm not sure what sort of reverse polarity protection your particular gear has but a lot of manufacturers DO go the extra mile and add protection so you are probably OK! thumbs up
johnwynberg
Thanks. I'm glad to know. But, still, I need to be more careful. I assume the protection will not work forever. If they still put so much emphasis in connecting the ribbon cables the right way, it must be for a reason.
Daisuk
I just got a new moudule, the Pittsburgh VC Bend, on the ribbon cable that came with it, the triangle on the smallest connector (the one connected to the module itself) is not alligned with the red stripe, but the triangle on the other end, the end connected to the bus board, the triangle is alligned to the red stripe.



So what to do in this situation? Do I have to twist the cable (which seems odd), or is the triangle allignment only important for the bus board connector?

I'm also not sure on the polarity on the PCB board of the module. There's no certain way for me of telling which is - and which is +, except on the backside of the board there is a plus on one side, but that could mean anything else for all I know. Here's a couple of pictures of the connector on the PCB board;





You can vaguely see the + to the left on the bottom picture.

Any help on this issue much appreciated! smile
reodjectz
Quick question. How trustworthy is Modular Grid's power consumption information? Especially if a module needs +5v or not. I occasionally see a 0 for 5v consumption, and other times nothing.

I also have modules that have a connector for +5v on the board, but don't say anything about needing 5v, I assume I should trust the module's documentation?
inner_light
I have a silly question-
I'm in the middle of hooking up a a-190 midi to cv converter.
How does one install the doepfer low cost +5 adaptor? Does it slot right onto the bus board? If so, the how does the module then attach to it? I've scoured the innanets for a a video or pictorial guide, and I feel like a dummy. Can anyone help me out?
seriously, i just don't get it
pownie
Yes, connect it to the bus board, any connector on the board will do, I think. After that, you should see the 5V LED on that board light up (if you have a Doepfer bus board, at least). Then you can connect your module to any of the connecters on that board, which is now being supplied with 5V. Only one adapter per board, though, so make sure none is already installed.

See more here and even here.
inner_light
Ok thanks!
It's peanut butter jelly time!
daverj
Since I've posted similar posts more than once, I thought I would repost this here in the power sticky thread:
===================

The Doepfer PSU2 puts out 1200ma of +12v **AND** 1200ma of -12v.

Doepfer modules only list one current (for example, maybe 40ma) while most other companies list separate amounts of current for each rail. Doepfer started doing that because they felt it was easier for people to add up one total, and since their power supplies always had the same amount of current available at each rail, if there was enough current available on one rail, by default the other rails was fine.

Since then some companies make power supplies that do not have the same amount of power on each rail. And since then many manufacturers have made modules that do not use the same amount of +12v and -12v.

So these days we add up each rail separately and make sure that each rail has enough power available for the total needed by the modules (on that rail). If a module spec doesn't show multiple power requirements, such as the ones on the Doepfer site which only show one current, you must assume that the module needs that much current from the =12v and also needs that much current from the -12v rail. For example, if Doepfer says a module needs 40ma, that means 40ma of +12v and 40ma of -12v.

So you need to add up how much +12v is needed by your modules and see if your +12v rail can supply that. Then you need to add up how much power your modules need from the -12v rail, and see if your power supply can provide that. Then you need to add up how much +5v your modules need and then see if you have enough (or any) +5v available to supply that.

You do not add the rails to each other when seeing if the output of the power supply can provide enough for the modules. Each rail is calculated separately.

However, there are times that the totals DO get added together.

1 - If your 5v comes from an add-on device such as the Doepfer +12v to +5v adapter, then the +5v is actually coming from the +12v rail. So in that case the amount of current used by the +5v must be added to the +12v being used, and then make sure that your power supply can supply enough +12v to support your modules as well as the +12v to +5v adapter.

2 - The other time you add the rails together is if you are calculating the size of a single external wall-wart or table-top power supply that is in turn feeding the main power supply. This is a totally separate calculation than the ones for seeing if the main power supply has enough power to supply the modules. This one is only true with power supplies like the uZeus and the Zeus which use a single external supply to drive the internal power supply, which in turn creates all the rails from that one external supply. And this calculation is to see if that external supply is large enough to feed the main supply in the case.

So, for example, with the uZeus you feed it 15v from an external supply and that external supply must provide enough current (plus a little extra) to cover all the rails added together. The uZeus in this example can supply as much as 1000ma of +12v, 500ma of -12v (if you remove it's internal jumper), and 170ma of +5v. That means the external supply must be capable of provifing at least 1670ma to supply all the rails at full power. A 2000ma external supply would be better. (note: many external supplies sold with the uZeus are not large enough to get the full rated power from the uZeus)

And one final thought. Don't trust the power totals at modular grid. They are user entered data and full of mistakes. Always look up each module at the manufacturer's site, or at http://www.eurorackdb.com/ (he has carefully looked them all up, wherever possible). If you do find an error at Modular grid, please change the value there to the correct one so that eventually we can stop warning people about this issue.
liquid234
Thanks to all who have posted such helpful advice in this thread. Has
surely saved me from frying a module so far. I must remain cautious and
patient when connecting modules, tho. Haste makes waste!
Soundifferent
daverj wrote:

(...)And one final thought. Don't trust the power totals at modular grid. They are user entered data and full of mistakes. Always look up each module at the manufacturer's site, or at http://www.eurorackdb.com/ (he has carefully looked them all up, wherever possible). If you do find an error at Modular grid, please change the value there to the correct one so that eventually we can stop warning people about this issue.


Thanks for the useful post! applause
Some time ago I checked all the modules in my setup on modulargrid to see if all the data was right but I stumbled upon a little dilemma: is there any way to get the exact +12V -12V and 5V data of DOEPFER modules instead of a generic "current: x mA"? help
pownie
Not sure what you're hinting at, but 12V, -12V and 5V are all different measurements than mA. One is electric potential (volts, V) the other is electric current (ampere, A). At the distinct voltage rails (12, -12, 5, and even sometimes 15V as well) you will have a current draw measured usually in mA. Why would you need any additional info on voltage? The voltages are fixed, the amps must not exceed the total amount your PSU can sustain. Am I totally missing something?
MTom5
Why do they not design the Bus connectors so they can only be plugged in one way?

Seems logical?
Soundifferent
pownie wrote:
Not sure what you're hinting at, but 12V, -12V and 5V are all different measurements than mA. One is electric potential (volts, V) the other is electric current (ampere, A). At the distinct voltage rails (12, -12, 5, and even sometimes 15V as well) you will have a current draw measured usually in mA. Why would you need any additional info on voltage? The voltages are fixed, the amps must not exceed the total amount your PSU can sustain. Am I totally missing something?


What I mean is that I'd like to have complete electrical informations about Doepfer modules.
For example, if you're looking for such infos about a popular module
http://www.makenoisemusic.com/optomix.shtml
You'll find the following information:
Power:
25mA@ +12V
25mA @ -12V

Now try the same thing with a DOEPFER module
http://www.doepfer.de/A1881.htm
Strombedarf/Current: 80 mA

Ok, it's 80 mA BUT on wich rail? d'oh!
Is it
40mA +12V & 40mA -12V?
80mA+12V & 80mA -12V?
60mA +12V & 20mA -12V?
79mA +12V & 1mA -12V?
hihi
pownie
Well, in the case with Doepfer it's probably as daverj wrote:

daverj wrote:
Doepfer modules only list one current (for example, maybe 40ma) while most other companies list separate amounts of current for each rail. Doepfer started doing that because they felt it was easier for people to add up one total, and since their power supplies always had the same amount of current available at each rail, if there was enough current available on one rail, by default the other rails was fine.


But yes, I guess they could specify it more clearly for each rail.

So in your example it would be 80mA on each rail; 80mA+12V & 80mA -12V, yeah? Or at least you shouldn't assume less, whether it'd be the actual numbers or not.
monotrome
I'm currently planning to DIY a 104 HP controller skiff:
http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/97949

Just to be safe: The Synthrotek Nano-12 Power Supply should be enough for this, right?
http://store.synthrotek.com/Nano_12_Eurorack_Power_Supply
pownie
More than enough, I should say. It supplies
Quote:
+12 @ 3.25A
-12 @ 250mA
+5 @ 1.5A

and you just need

+12 @ 0,36A
-12 @ 28mA
5 @ 0mA
monotrome
pownie wrote:
More than enough, I should say. It supplies
Quote:
+12 @ 3.25A
-12 @ 250mA
+5 @ 1.5A

and you just need

+12 @ 0,36A
-12 @ 28mA
5 @ 0mA


Thanks, that's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure I didn't miss something.
disjunctionreunion
Sorry i missed this thread and posted elsewhere.
I'm hoping someone can help me answer this question about supplying two Power units with one supply.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=114247

Thanks
Luke.
alamandra
I know you shouldn't blindly trust red stripe, some modules it marks it as pos some neg some it probably doesn't mean a thing lol. But can you trust the pcb markings on module end? anyone ever known this to be wrong?
revoltcrews
this thread has got me curious now. okie dokie.
only been with modular for 6months now.
i have the mx104, with only the skiff (non psu) filled at the moment.

Specs:
3500ma Universal Switching PSU (120 - 240v)
2 Monorocket 2.0 Distro board (base - ***5v supplied on base top row only)

My power listed on modular grid:
Power Consumption: 1014 mA +12V | 422 mA -12V | 126 mA 5V

should i move some modules to the psu section of the case to even the draw on the bus boards ?
also, i'm using a makenoise Volts adapter in the skiff for the 5v.

am i correct in adding as such:
1014 mA
422 mA
126 mA
=1562 mA (so i'm literally only drawing 1/2 power at the moment ?

http://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/60212
Ty
Can I make my ribbon cables shorter or do I need to buy a new cable? Is there a way to reuse the connectors? Is there a video on how to do this if you can?

I think I can fit everything in my case but I have all these narrow modules and the space is all being taken up by ribbon spaghetti! angry
kmurph
Im trying to decide between the Synthrotek power supply or the 4ms row power with a distro bus

Im leaning to the sythrotek power set up since it will offer more expansion options down the line without having to get another row power system. but was curious what others thought. This is my first modular case and system and I realize since power is the backbone, you want to get it right.

That said seems like you get more power with synthrotek and save cash both now and if you expand... seems like w in to me but want to make sure im not making a newbie mistake and missing something.
help
JohnLRice
Ty wrote:
Can I make my ribbon cables shorter or do I need to buy a new cable? Is there a way to reuse the connectors?

Yes, you can add additional connectors and cut off the excess cable length but obviously it is up to you to do it correctly! 8_)

I bought some of these from this vendor, all went smoothly so I recommend them thumbs up
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-2-54mm-Pitch-Male-16-Pin-Straight-IDC-Ty pe-Cable-Box-Header-Connector-/170959392532

I wouldn't try to reuse the connectors but I'm sure it can be done if you are careful.

You'll need a special tool or a bench vice etc to add new connectors. I just used a blue ratcheting type hand clamp eek! meh not the best but it worked OK. Mr. Green

Voggg
I wish I had read this thread 3 hours ago.

I got my first case and modules in the mail today, and I was SO EXCITED. (You know those kids who are so excited about their first car that they immediately crash into a wall?)

I just plugged everything in (red stripe? what?) and turned it on. Best case scenario: I only blew a fuse in the power bus. Worst case, I fried everything.

On the power bus, the -12V and +5V LEDs light up. The +12V is dark.

I'm too scared to plug any modules in again.

Here's my setup:
-Elite case with Make Noise power bus
-Make Noise DPO
-Intellijel VCA
-Intellijel Dual ADSR
-Circuit Abbey Unify
-Mutable Instruments Yarns

If the fuse is blown, is there a way to fix it or do I need to replace the power bus? If the modules are fried, can I send them back to the manufacturers for repair (I'll pay) or at least recycling?

Hi everyone! Feel free to call me names, etc. I deserve it.
-Chris
JohnLRice
Voggg wrote:
I wish I had read this thread 3 hours ago.

I got my first case and modules in the mail today, and I was SO EXCITED. (You know those kids who are so excited about their first car that they immediately crash into a wall?)

I just plugged everything in (red stripe? what?) and turned it on. Best case scenario: I only blew a fuse in the power bus. Worst case, I fried everything.

On the power bus, the -12V and +5V LEDs light up. The +12V is dark.

I'm too scared to plug any modules in again.

Here's my setup:
-Elite case with Make Noise power bus
-Make Noise DPO
-Intellijel VCA
-Intellijel Dual ADSR
-Circuit Abbey Unify
-Mutable Instruments Yarns

If the fuse is blown, is there a way to fix it or do I need to replace the power bus? If the modules are fried, can I send them back to the manufacturers for repair (I'll pay) or at least recycling?

Hi everyone! Feel free to call me names, etc. I deserve it.
-Chris


Welcome Voggg/Chris! w00t Sorry your first experience has to be a stressful one! woah Hug

First thing, unplug all the module power cables from the power buss and turn it on. Do all three LEDs come on now?

If NO: let us know and we can step you through trouble shooting the power supply.

If YES: turn off the power and plug in just one module (red strip to -12v and verify that the red strip on the module side also goes to -12v) and turn the power supply back on. If it works or doesn't work, turn off the power, disconnect the module and set it aside in the "good" or "bad" pile and then keep trying each module by itself until all have been tested. With any luck only one module is 'bad'.
Voggg
Hi John, thanks so much for the help!

I turned on the power again with all modules unplugged. The same situation: -12V and +5V lights are on, and the +12V light is off. What next?
JohnLRice
Voggg wrote:
Hi John, thanks so much for the help!

I turned on the power again with all modules unplugged. The same situation: -12V and +5V lights are on, and the +12V light is off. What next?
Aww, OK. Well, with any luck no modules are fried (but don't get your hopes too high), just your power supply. Do you have a DMM? (digital multi-meter) You'll need one to verify the voltages that are present at different points. Usable meters are cheap, like $20 to $30, but unless you can do some reasonable DIY you'll either need to send the supply in for repair or replace it.

There is more I want to say but I've only had a couple hours sleep and not enough food in the last couple days so I hope others will jump in . . . .
Voggg
Well, at the very least I'll still have a rack. Hope you can get some food and rest today.

I don't have any tools, but I am in the company of an electrician this weekend, so if anyone has any suggestions, fire away!
klo
hi,

total noober here..

I cannot post a photo yet since this is only my second post. So here is a link to my problem .. http://instagram.com/p/rTH-kwQYMX/

What is the best solution for me? The manufacturer suggested I obtain a cable without a "direction nose". Where can I easily get one here in the USA?
Matos
Take a file or x-acto blade. Carefully file or cut off direction nose. Label the cable with a marker to remind you that the cable has been modified. Plug in. High five.
giorgio
or just clip that shroud around the headers off, that's what I do
klo
I tried both. On hindsight I would say x-acto on the cable key is better. Fast actually. Less risk of damaging the module and it won't look like it was abused (better resale value) .

tanks!

hi-fives all around!
ndkent
re- the key being talked about that is a candidate for filing- It's worth a try to swap the synth and power bus ends of the cable - I'm saying remove the module end too and plug what you were plugging into the the bus into the module.

**do check very carefully to maintain that your -12v is where it should be**

I've had this work out just fine but I would not recommend a situation where this works but the red stripe is now the wrong way - why? - because you might forget when you move modules.

As for getting a new cable. It's kind of ridiculous to buy an unkeyed cable - which I've never seen as far as I can recall - but I think it's realistic though annoying to have to replace a cable that is not keyed correctly for your shrouded bus board
Stinktier86
...ignore this post...
animalman
Prolly a stupid question, but can't find info anywhere...
why the connectors have 2 rows of pins and 3 ground pairs?
Wouldn't it be enuff with just one row of 3 pins (+12/gnd/-12) and be done with it?
Is there some greater scheme i dont see?
thanks & Peace
ghrobbing_tristle
Hey guys!

Long time reader, first time poster (I'll introduce myself a little more formally elsewhere in the Euro thread).

I just purchased a A-100 LC6 case, and threw in a DPO (first module!) last week; I'll be putting in a Maths tomorrow - can't wait! Everything has been working just fine after two weeks of use, but I have one total noob question: on both rails, the -12 and +12 lights come on, but the 5V light stays dim. Is this completely normal?

Just want to get my ducks in a row before I start building further smile
khakifridge
As I understand from the Doepfer website, you only get the +/-12V rails. If you need 5V, then you should add the "A-100AD5" 5V adaptor thingy (or something similar).
Soundifferent
Where is the 5V led?
ghrobbing_tristle
Soundifferent --

I'm sorry - I'd post a picture if I was at home right now. Basically, I'm referring to the LEDs on the far right of the rails, just near the supply. The -12 and +12 light up red.
mick
So, my Doepfer case is ready to be picked up, my first modules are waiting at home.

Now for the scary part... putting the modules in!

To be honest I dont really see a problem here, just paying attention on the module to see where -12V goes, and then follow the cable to see you put it right on the powerboard too.
For modules that dont have a clear marking, I can easily ask in the topics of those modules here.

But how to do it? Should I plug everything in, and then turn it on. Or is it better (though a lot slower) to plug a module in, turn the system on, turn the system off, build in the next module and turn the system on again etc (but then I would have to disconnect the previous modules again, right?)

Would love to hear what you guys think/how you guys do it.
Soundifferent
I always connected everything, double-checked it...then checked again for proper connection! hihi
KrisM
the Maths I bought from someone here came with a cable with the triangle on one end not by the red wire. The other one was by the triangle. But I figured as long as everything lined up and the cable wasn't twisted along its length, and I lined up the red wire to my power board and the module's -12V marking...

All the same, it was a bit of a butthole puckerer the first time I powered the system on hihi

But I didn't fry anything thanks to this thread and got to wiggling nanners
mick
Well, that was as easy as 1-2-3. You just need to use your eyes and logic smile
Heikki
Hi Guys!

First post...Haven't had the need to post yet because there's already so much good info around here! So, Thanks for that!

I have nearly filled my 9U Doepfer case and have never had any problems with connecting my modules because of all the fantastic info here. I am sure my problem has come up several times, but I am really scared of damaging something and really just need a simple answer to this.

I recently bought a Pittsburgh Modular Mix Mult module. This is the first module i have problems with connecting. The triangles are not aligned at the different ends of the cable. The bus board end has the triangle normally at the bottom next to the red line (goes to -12v). On the module end the triangle is at the top (not next to red line) and goes to +V as labeled on the module (I assume this is +12v).

What should I do? I understand nothing of electronics and i am surprised i got this far without any similar problems with any of my previous modules... Should I contact Pittsburgh modular or is there a simple fix to this?

Sorry if my explanation is not that great and thanks for all the help!

Heikki
ghrobbing_tristle
http://cl.ly/image/1d1j0t0R0W3y

This is a supremely stupid question, but I need to triple-check this stuff before I make a fool of myself. There's money on the table wink

Regarding the photo I linked to above - I'm assuming here that the end marked 'RED' on the back of the Make Noise Wogglebug is the -12 volt end. I checked the manual, but the photo was missing. Again, dumb - but I won't have a panic attack when I'm plugging this in tonight with your help!

sad banana

Thanks!
Eichburger
Deleted
wavefold
probably a dumb question, maybe a little bit offtopic but... is it safe to buy used power supplies? are those still relayable? hmmm.....
imabluerobot
Dumb question: What happens if you accidentally exceed the capacities for one of the rails? Can this fry modules? People seem to be using a single uZeus for 6u 104 hp skiffs (the same size as mine) but I'm also planning on getting several hungry digital modules so I'm not sure if it'll be enough.
L.C.O.
Can anyone tell me, what is the proper orientation for plugging the ribbon cable into the Nano 12 power? The -12 does not seem tobe labeled on the board... Should the red stripe go on the side where the LEDs are located, or on the side where it says "J2" "J1"?
Thank you!
jeramypatraw
Looking for an power jammer of multiple functions? How about trying this remote jamming device? they works with really high efficiency and are selling at good price now, with the high-tech manufaturing, signal jamming will be accomplished without transmission loss, ang they work with good performance in various relative activities, if youy are looking for one, hope this will help!
C14ru5
Gotharman CS Filter. This thing is ugly. It needed more than a dozen rinsing passes with alcohol and q-tips before the cigarette soot (and stench) was cleaned away acceptably. And the power headers give me no immediate hint about where the red stripe should go.

If I use this hint from earlier in the thread:
Zenn wrote:
It's common for PCB designs to have al the 6 GND pins connected to eachother.

...it would seem like -12V should be on the corner closest to the big capacitors.

EDIT: I took two more pictures at an angle now, and it actually looks as if the 3x2 pins closest to the capacitors, are not connected to anything. This would reverse my initial conclusion!

Can anyone confirm?
fusionid
confused

oh man oh man. Sniff test. If anything burns you put it in the wrong way :(
Joe.
Pretty sure that's the '- Voltage indicator'

C14ru5
Yes, and I'm getting increasingly confident that the '1' marking also indicates -12V, just like many other boards pictured in this thread have been marked 'JP1' or 'SV1' at the -12V end.

I think I'll try connecting it tonight and see what happens, I feel about 90% certain about the correct orientation now, and if I'm wrong, at least I'll learn what happens when I connect something wrong.
gotharman
Yes, the "1" indicates -12V. Sorry about the poor indication. I'll try to make it better...
C14ru5
No harm done! Thanks for replying here thumbs up
hocustotem
there are two videos embedded in the second post in this thread (by kent).

the second video is now listed as "private" by youtube and contains no title or description.

can anyone repost?

thanks to all for consolidating this information, it is very helpful.
drip.feed
Can the outputs of multiple linear power supplies be ganged together?

I have two 500mA linear PSUs in my 2-busboard, Euro case.

Is it safe to physically join the outputs of both supplies into 3 'common rails' (+12, -12, 0V) and then take wires from each rail to my busboards?





My intention is that two PSUs should share the overall load. If, say, busboard #1 draws 600mA and bustard #2 draws 200mA then the combined power supplies will cope.

I have seen this done by fellow Wigglers but have also been told it is a bad idea. Would someone care to clarify?
abelovesfun
I'm a 5U guy, but I often build Euro for others. Here is a short, three step tutorial video showing how to tell what end of a module's power connector is positive if it isn't otherwise marked.

http://www.newpathcommune.com/2015/02/13/find-polarity-eurorack-power- connector/

(for some reason video embed isn't working for me)

I've only been DIYing for 2 years and am self taught, so if there is an issue, please let me know.
phosfiend
one of my cell 90's is the older style with the female connectors on the ribbon. I've always used the 10 pin connections but I'm tight on cable space. I can connect one of the 16 pin bus connectors to a 10pin connector on my module right?

Like so?

kmurph
phosfiend wrote:
one of my cell 90's is the older style with the female connectors on the ribbon. I've always used the 10 pin connections but I'm tight on cable space. I can connect one of the 16 pin bus connectors to a 10pin connector on my module right?

Like so?



no clue but nice ripples hihi just ordered one myself
antofthesky
phosfiend wrote:
one of my cell 90's is the older style with the female connectors on the ribbon. I've always used the 10 pin connections but I'm tight on cable space. I can connect one of the 16 pin bus connectors to a 10pin connector on my module right?

Like so?



I'm doing this right now with a Pitts Midi2 and a Happy Ending Kit because I can't find an extra 10 to 16 pin ribbon cable, with no issues.
reactivatedreality
Hey everyone, got a bit of a noob question.

I'm building my first euro case, and went with Elby designs for my power. I've got an ed126, a 4hp power plate and an external power supply.

My question is how to hook the power plate up to the ed126 - the plate comes with two cables (one yellow and one black), and the ed126 has multiple headers (+16v, 0v, +/- 12v, etc), and I have no idea what I should be connecting to. I'm guessing the 16v and the 0v, but does it matter which cable goes to which header?

Have scoured the net, couldn't find anything, and have emailed Laurie but not sure if he'll reply tonight.

Any help would be very much appreciated!
monads
It's been noted before on the Doepfer +5V adapter, but wanted to include a pic in this sticky

a-100 ad5


Per Doepfer "+5V low cost adapter is used to generate the additionally required +5V. In this case the required current @+5V is taken from the +12V line. Of course there has to be a sufficient current reserve at +12V."
C14ru5
reactivatedreality wrote:
My question is how to hook the power plate up to the ed126 - the plate comes with two cables (one yellow and one black), and the ed126 has multiple headers (+16v, 0v, +/- 12v, etc), and I have no idea what I should be connecting to. I'm guessing the 16v and the 0v, but does it matter which cable goes to which header?

I have a Masonmack case that came with the ED126 v0.1 pre-assembled, and on there, the orange/yellow cable goes to +15V (labeled J101) and the black cable goes to 0V (labeled J102). I'm pretty sure that the connections for +12V and -12V are for daisy-chaining with another power board, probably the ED123.

But please wait for a confirmed answer from Elby, as I don't want to be held responsible if anything goes wrong!
wedeadyet
Useful and helpful thread!
Anton
Hi everyone, first post. Embarrassed to be yet another noob, and my question is probably stupid (but there's just too much joy to be had from these instruments and too much goodness on this forum to stay silent).

Searched through various power consumption threads without finding an answer to this:

What do you do when the power needs of the modules in your—say Doepfer—case exceed the power provided?
How do you put more power in? (Do you?)

Maybe I'm just not getting it (probability of this is overwhelming), but when a 9U case and a 6U case both have the same power supply, aren't you more likely to run out of power with a (full) 9U case as that one would contain more modules?

Thanks in advance; I am truly floored by the generosity and intelligence on this forum.
daverj
Anton wrote:
Maybe I'm just not getting it (probability of this is overwhelming), but when a 9U case and a 6U case both have the same power supply, aren't you more likely to run out of power with a (full) 9U case as that one would contain more modules?


Yes.

The Doepfer 9U cases do not have enough power for everybody. It depends on the combination of modules you get. For some people it's enough. And if you only used Doepfer modules, which tend to be lower power, then it might be enough. But if you like some of the fancier power hungry modules then it won't be enough.

In general you can't easily add more power to a case without changing the supply or adding another one. Some people might add something like a uZeus to power a few extra modules. Others might buy an additional Doepfer supply and mount it in for one of the rows (or pay Doepfer to do that).

Otherwise you need to limit yourself to a combination of modules that will fit within the power available.
Anton
Thanks very much! Happy to hear it makes such straightforward sense. Limitations be limitations! It's peanut butter jelly time!
papertiger
Level 1 newb here with three modules waiting to be plugged in to a Doepfer lc6 case arriving tomorrow.

Eternally grateful for the first post in this thread as I'm frankly terrified of plugging the ribbon cable in the wrong way and blowing myself, and my beautiful modules, up. So, thanks!
charonme
spbaker wrote:
In my short time of euro-accumulating I have had cables built with one end having the red stripe matched to the triangle and the other end not- boom kapow hiss, instant voltage reversal

Daisuk wrote:

This just happened to me. Someone sold me a bad cable like this and I didn't notice until it was too late.
spbaker wrote:
This is kinda ok if you don't have keyed headers

I didn't notice because none of my modules have keyed bowels/shrouds, so I can always plug in the cable according to the red stripe, ignoring the connector keying.

However I have one module (EMW AR 3X) with an unmarked horizontal power connector which is keyed with a bowel/shroud and without any polarity protection and yesterday I unwittingly connected it with this only faulty cable I have (what are the chances!). One capacitor exploded and who knows how many other components on the module got fried.

I have no idea who sold me this cable, but I'm shaking my fist at them now!
daverj
Don't blame the person that sold it to you. Blame the lazy manufacturer that couldn't be bothered to build a cable correctly.

Doepfer and a number of other manufacturers figure that since the key on the connector was never part of the original Doepfer standard, that they (Doepfer and others) don't have to bother paying attention to it when assembling the cables. It probably saves them a whole 3 cents per connector.

When Doepfer was the only one making modules and power distribution, it didn't matter. But everybody, including Doepfer, knows that there are modules and power boards these days that use keyed headers. It is very, very, very simple to make the ribbons correctly every time. There is no excuse any more.

If you buy a brand new module and it comes with a ribbon not made correctly, write a letter to that manufacturer telling them that you are disappointed in them. (don't expect that they'll replace it, but at least let them know how you feel)
L.C.O.
Hi Guys,

I got the Erthenvar 1U CTACT tile, which I am hoping to use in a standalone box. Two questions:

1. What are th three leads (black, red, white) on the unit supposed to connect to?

2. I have a transformer that puts out 12V 750mA Can I use that to power the tile?

Thank you!
p.

daverj
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/
L.C.O.
daverj wrote:
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/


Ah, yes. Thank you!

So, is there any way to get th +/-12 out of the 12V walwart power supply?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.
Summa
L.C.O. wrote:
daverj wrote:
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/


Ah, yes. Thank you!

So, is there any way to get th +/-12 out of the 12V walwart power supply?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.


You need one of these!
L.C.O.
Summa wrote:
L.C.O. wrote:
daverj wrote:
GND – black wire
+12V – red wire
-12V – white wire

http://erthenvar.com/blog/specs-1u-tiles/


Ah, yes. Thank you!

So, is there any way to get th +/-12 out of the 12V walwart power supply?

Any advice will be very much appreciated.


You need one of these!


That would solve my problem if I had the tile in my euro case. but I am trying to have itinstalled in a separate, standalone box that is powerded by the walwart...
Summa
oh sorry L.C.O. didn't get that part, ask Nicholas at Erthenvar he'll surely know what to do. I think i saw a standalone tile "carrier" at NAMM, but perhaps that was powered from the other eurocase.. hmmm.....
daverj
You would have to DIY a converter using a DC-DC module that converts a positive voltage to a negative one.
L.C.O.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Two 1K resistors is all that was needed to make it work!
:-)

Got this lovely aid from John from Pulplogic, in case anyone is thinking about making their own little case etc.
(hopefully he does not mind me posting it here)

JohnLRice
I'll post this here as a reference but it is not something most people would ever need to do so, just ignore this until someday when you really need to do it! (thanks to Phil of Megaohm Audio for his tip in this thread https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1390843#1390843 )

I got a new module that wouldn't fit between my rack rails. I resolved the problem by cutting off the power connector on the module side of the cable and replacing it with a skinnier MTA 100 connector.

mumpie
Thanks for the details!!
WIZARDISHUNGRY
I'm currently using a Make Noise Bus Power inside a 6U case powered by a 15V 4A brick that is likely nowhere near capacity.

I have a spare HEK without power that I'd like to power off the same brick. I've noticed I'm able to power the make noise power with one of those 9V chain cables. I was wondering if there was a cheap option for power in the HEK. The uZeus receptacle is physically incompatible with the 15V brick and the cable chain. I could try and find an physical adapter but I feel pretty meh on that idea. Would a tiptop row power work? Anything else

The other stupid idea I had was running a long bus cable from spare bus board connectors through a 1.5hp gap at the end of my 6U case. The total draw from the HEK is 310 mA +12V | 140 mA -12V | 0 mA 5V which seems pretty moderate.

Has anyone run a power cable from a busboard to another case?
modezart
if would do that to i would make sure that i have a fat ground cable from case to case smile
Jim Child
I've tried searching for various permutations of "multiple ...this and that" but came up with nothing, so.

Guidance on Dealing With Multiple Power Supplies

What do I need to know to avoid disaster when inter-connecting modules which are powered by different power supplies?

I'm a noobie so I'll avoid asking about the more complicated scenario I forsee where the power draw of the modules installed in a case exceed the case's power unit's rating.

So, what are the guidelines when you're using two cases, each with its own power supply, to process the sound?
dang_motu
Having trouble on how to connect an Analog Solutions HH88. From this picture you can see that the + or - sign is obscured by the cable mount (same with the other 12 not pictured). Anyone know what the deal is?
Studio-ES
deleted
Graham Hinton
Jim Child wrote:

What do I need to know to avoid disaster when inter-connecting modules which are powered by different power supplies?
...

So, what are the guidelines when you're using two cases, each with its own power supply, to process the sound?


Ideally, two seperately powered pieces of audio equipment that are patched together should have balanced inputs and outputs and an Earthed screen. That is how all professional recording equipment is made.

If you connect two pieces of unbalanced audio equipment, i.e. most modular synthesizers, then you need a common 0V reference. This can be achieved by connecting the 0V of each system together and Earthing it at only one point. Often this happens invisibly through the mains Earth wiring, but that is not the best way. The important factor is the resistance of the connection which has to be much lower than the resistance of the screens of the patch cables. You can use very heavy bonding cables, but the best method is a busbar which will have a resistance of less than 100 microOhms.

There is a finite limit to how far an unbalanced system can be physically spread apart. A couple of cabinets is achievable, a whole room of wallpaper modules is not. Monster systems should be considered as separate smaller systems with only balanced connections between each. Large mixing consoles are both balanced internally and have a large busbar across the width. That is the model to follow.

More information is available here: http://www.hinton-instruments.co.uk/paprod/psu/psuinfo.htm
Studio-ES
+5V Power Adapters - Mutable Instruments Volts & Make Noise 5V Adapter

There is a lot of valuable information in this thread, and it's greatly appreciated. I have a few questions and I'll also add several things I've observed along the way.

I was curious about the small +5V adapters which are required (for several modules) in cases with power supplies which lack +5V power, such as most Doepfer cases. The Doepfer bus boards do have a +5V LED, but the cases only supply +12V & -12V. Only a small handful of modules require +5V (in addition to +12 & -12V) but a very popular one is the Mutable Instruments Braids.

As far as I know, these +5V Adapters will take the required +5V from the +12V power rail for modules on the bus board which require +5V. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Here's my question: How much power will a 5V adapter actually take from the +12V power rail? It's been mentioned recently that for the Mutable Instruments Volts 5V adapter, the rule is "remove from the +12V rail half of what the modules will draw on the +5V rail. " I also recall reading another old post from another veteran that mentioned something similar. I've searched with no luck.

Okay, for example, Braids requires 15mA +12V, 15mA -12V, & 85mA +5V.
So in a Doepfer case, with a Mutable Volts adapter plugged into one header on the bus board, & Braids plugged into another, will Braids draw 57.5mA from the +12V rail, 15mA from -12V, & 0mA from +5V? (57.5mA=15mA+half of 85). Is that correct? And are those numbers at max draw or is it average? I guess power specifications also depend on how the manufacturer tested? But that's another topic. Sorry.

Since we have to keep a close eye on power consumption, and be careful not to exceed the power supply's limit (1200mA with the Doepfer A-100P9 for example), it may be helpful to know what these +5V Adapters are actually doing.

One observation:
I've noticed that the header for the Make Noise 5V Adapter is too short to attach to shrouded headers on several bus boards in a skiff I have. The tiny circuit boards are in the way. It fits perfectly on a Doepfer bus board header since those aren't shrouded.

Thanks again. Below is a photo of the Make Noise & Mutable Instruments +5V Adapters.

Studio-ES
^ Any experienced wigglers have any advice/insight?

How much power will a 5V adapter actually take from the +12V power rail? It's been mentioned recently that for the Mutable Instruments Volts 5V adapter, the rule is "remove from the +12V rail half of what the modules will draw on the +5V rail. "

Since we have to keep a close eye on power consumption, and be careful not to exceed the power supply's limit (1200mA with the Doepfer A-100P9 for example), it may be helpful to know what these +5V Adapters are actually doing.
pichenettes
Quote:
So in a Doepfer case, with a Mutable Volts adapter plugged into one header on the bus board, & Braids plugged into another, will Braids draw 57.5mA from the +12V rail, 15mA from -12V


Correct so far.

Quote:
& 0mA from +5V?


The adapter will supply 85mA to the +5V rail.
Studio-ES
Thank you, I appreciate the clarification.
cannonball swandive
I connected a module backwards to my tiptop audio studio bus and now the light for my -12 rail isn't lighting up. Any suggestions? help
touchfuzzygetdizzy
Hoping someone can help me with this - I bought a used Doepfer module and the power connector is incorrectly built. The red stripe doesn't align with either triangle on the plastic pin connectors. So my first question -

a) Is there anything special about the plastic-triangle marked female pins? Or is that just a convenient marking for -12v? In other words, as long as -12v on the module and -12v on the power are connected by the same wire, does the triangle indicator matter?

More to the point, the key headers are misaligned between the power connector and my board. I've never had this issue, but even with -12v pointing the same way as the power -12v the pins don't align (and it can't be "flipped" because of the way the connectors are keyed). If that's confusing, refer to the attached picture (also note I DID NOT plug this in like this or any other way, the picture is merely for reference). Now I'm assuming this is a no-go, but my question is -

b) Is there any fix for this? Do I need a new power cable? Is this somehow ok as long as the first connected pin is -12v?

I appreciate your guys' help!
Studio-ES
When people talk about Eurorack having no power standard, yours is just one good example.

You just need to make sure the -12V from the back of the module is connected to the -12V side on your bus board's header. Which side is -12V on your bus board?

On the back of the Doepfer's PCB near the power pins, there should be one side that has a white stripe, which indicates -12V. Not all Doepfer modules have it though. That Doepfer cable pictured looks like a stock Doepfer cable too. Can't be 100% certain though.

Now find the -12V side on you bus board's headers, and make sure -12V goes to -12V.

Typically, the power cables' red stripe corresponds to -12V, but due to some manufacturers using those shrouded headers (like you have), the keyed notches don't line up so occasionally the wire needs to be reversed, the notches need to be ground down, or the header's shroud trimmed.

I know this post is a bit late, but please let us know how you made out. And who makes that flying bus cable that's pictured.
Keso
Hello, Im still comfused abouth this triangle. Bulding my first rack right now and got a cable with the triangle on diffrent sides of the ribbon cable. Have tried to understand the meaning of this frome the first post but english isnt my first language.... is there any danger if the red stripe still is right?

plaese explane to this noob : )
Graham Hinton
The red stripe on a grey ribbon cable and the moulded triangle on IDC connectors both indicate Pin 1 and should match. If you have a cable where the triangle does not match the stripe it has been made by somebody who does not know what they are doing and should be repaired or discarded.

It is unfortunate that Doepfer defined the cable orientation without reference to the proper pin numbers. Pin 1 = -12V would define how everything should go.
Not all ribbon cables have a red stripe, some have a blue stripe and if you used multicoloured ribbon cable pin 1 would be brown.
templar
EDIT: nevermind
JoakimB
Hey! I'm really new to eurorack and super scared of making mistakes with the power. Need some help connecting my 4ms Spectral Multiband Resonator. smile

Below i have copy pasted from the manual. Do I need to flip the jumper thing or am i good to just plugin it in? I have a doepfer low cost case. It has both a +5v and +12v pin on the busboard. If i am good to go i would need someone to confirm that the red stripe is -12V. Couldnt find info on that in the manual. Thanks in advance! smile

Quote:
Power consumption:

+12V rail:

86mA max (jumper set to 5V)

110mA max (jumper set to 12V)

-12V rail: 28mA max

+5V rail:

25mA (jumper set to 5V)

0mA (not used when jumper set to 12V)


and

Quote:
Most modern modular power supplies provide power on the +5V rail. It's recommended to use the +5V rail when available. If
your system does not provide +5V, or if your +5V rail is noisy, the SMR can be set to generate its own +5V from the +12V rail
by moving the jumper to +12V as shown above.
doubtfulsalmon
Ok, this might be a bit of stupid question but I figured this is the best place: I've got the version doepfer a100 diy psu with the barrel socket mounted directly to the board, what is the best way to go about connecting to a socket mounted in the wall of my case?

My first thought is to just desolder the onboard socket and replace with spade terminals or solder wires straight to it, but maybe there's an easier solution? All of doepfer's installation/technical information I can find is of the version without barrel connectors connecting board and transformer.

Thanks to anyone who can shed light on this.
Axelerator
First post !
Graham, your explanation of the grounding Problem was the best i did came over in some years of DIY now ! Short and nice !
I plan to build myself two or three suitcase Systems for
different Tasks.
as all my gear is balanced , i will put balanced i/o on each case,
which should help earthing.
now my big question : should i provide some balanced Multipliers
and patch Point in each case, so i could cross patch balanced between the cases ?
..that would mean a serious number of balanced patch Points..

or would that be to much for fm/mod cv Tasks ?
-but i think i have to do it this way, or i will have the eart messed up either
and again..
Thanks in advance !
ax
Graham Hinton
Hello Ax

Axelerator wrote:

I plan to build myself two or three suitcase Systems for
different Tasks.
as all my gear is balanced , i will put balanced i/o on each case,
which should help earthing.


The thing that helps with earthing is to have a proper mains Earth connection to each case and not to mix the system 0Vs with the Chassis Ground. Both are connected to Earth, but should not otherwise connect, especially at jack bushings on panels.

Many so-called balanced I/O modules incorrectly connect 0V to the cable shield. This is known as "the pin 1 problem" (referring to XLRs). If so, this might upset the rest of your studio and cable shields only connected the other end. This is a pain to keep track of and I dislike having cables that are not wired 1:1.

Quote:

now my big question : should i provide some balanced Multipliers
and patch Point in each case, so i could cross patch balanced between the cases ?


If think you mean balanced multiples (a balanced multiplier is a linear four quadrant multiplier used for ring modulation). Yes, any system needs multiples and a balanced one needs balanced multiples and also phase changers. It is common to use up spare sections of a jackfield for this.

Quote:

or would that be to much for fm/mod cv Tasks ?
-but i think i have to do it this way, or i will have the eart messed up either
and again..


You have to decide how to organise your three systems. Either you treat each case as a separate system with a couple of balanced outputs to connect to a mixer or you want to freely crosspatch between the cases. If the latter then you need a good (i.e. low resistance) common 0V connection between the cases to patch unbalanced. My preferred approach is to have totally balanced modules so that I can freely crosspatch anywhere to outboard devices and all the modules I offer have this option when fitted with bantam jacks, but you won't find many others that do.
Axelerator
Graham, thanks for your fast answer !
yes the pin 1 Problem .. i did diy all my Studio Equipment, so for this part i know i followed the same route everywhere.

I would have to diy some bufferd bal/unbal patchpoints for each case then.
this way i have control to do it right and maybe save a buck !
Do not need too much, as every system should give me enough stand alone power.
But having some Connections will open another universe..wink

so, thank you again !
ax
Graham Hinton
Axelerator wrote:

yes the pin 1 Problem .. i did diy all my Studio Equipment, so for this part i know i followed the same route everywhere.


I hope that is (XLR) pin 1 to chassis and NOT 0V.

Be careful if you mount bantams or TRS on the same panel as 3.5mm jacks. Ideally the panel, jack bushing and cable screen should be Chassis Ground and unbalanced signal returns should be via the 0V power rail rather than the cable screens, but that isn't the way Eurorack and other modulars are built, it doesn't have an enclosing Chassis Ground and 0V is randomly connected to panels.

Quote:

I would have to diy some bufferd bal/unbal patchpoints for each case then.
this way i have control to do it right and maybe save a buck !


One way to solve this problem is to have a rear panel that is Chassis Ground and separated from the front panels frame and take the balanced connections from there to other cases or to a balanced jackfield. DB25s in AES59 format may be used on panels with 0V as long as the cable does not have an overall screen connected to the shell. Normally it is individual screens connected to pins and these should not connect to local 0Vs.

Our Octal Trimmer modules have correct 0V and Chassis Ground wiring and are often used for bal/unbal conversion in either direction.
abmusic
Hi!

So I have a Korgasmatron II coming in the mail via Ebay and had a question. Someone told me that Intellijel flips their ribbon connectors around. Is this true?

If so, does this mean the red cable will be ON TOP leaving the module and ON BOTTOM going into my bus board? Power is a Doepfer P9 case.

Thanks so much! Don't want to blow anything up.
weirdo
I connected my old Cwejman Modules + Synth Tech e350 after reading in this forum.. but followed the instructions from Wowas PDF in the end. All modules are working fine. applause

Quote:
NEVER TRUST A RIBBON CABLE! NEVER TRUST THE RED STRIPE

Thanks for this tipp!
confusedmachine
Does anyone know if you can get by with a regulated 12VDC supply into an Elby ED126? Or does it have to be 15V?
confusedmachine
confusedmachine wrote:
Does anyone know if you can get by with a regulated 12VDC supply into an Elby ED126? Or does it have to be 15V?


From Elby:

It needs to be 15V for the positive side of the system.
The negative side will work from a 12V supply.

If you run from 12V you will find the -12V rail working okay. The +12V will run but what you will find is that the +12V output is actually YOUR 12V input i.e. the on board positive regulator will NOT be regulating.
BeeKid
Quick question:

I'm making my case with the Doepfer DIY kit 1.

As I've accidentally made my case about 2mm undersized in height (goddamnit) I can't use my aluminium rails. I've resorted now to using thin wooden planks where I can just screw my modules into.

Problem is: I can't really take advantage of the aluminium rails conductive properties for getting a good ground for my system. Should I just redo the whole case and use the alu rails, or can I just go ahead and use the wooden rails for now. It's a temporary case anyway.

esmeets
Hi,

I've just installed the Synthrotek deluxe power in my 3x114 HP case.
everything works fine but when I plug in the WMD Geiger Counter, the -12v lid starts blinking and all the other modules too...

1.Is this because I don't have enough power?
Power Consumption: 1433 mA +12V | 746 mA -12V | 180 mA 5V

2.Will it help to reorganize the whole case?

Thanks
JohnLRice
esmeets wrote:
Hi,

I've just installed the Synthrotek deluxe power in my 3x114 HP case.
everything works fine but when I plug in the WMD Geiger Counter, the -12v lid starts blinking and all the other modules too...

1.Is this because I don't have enough power?
Power Consumption: 1433 mA +12V | 746 mA -12V | 180 mA 5V

2.Will it help to reorganize the whole case?

Thanks
What is the rating on the power brick you are using?
JohnLRice
This is a quick crappy video to show how different power bricks can make huge differences in noise levels, even when they are from the same company and almost identical brands! If you are having power problems or can hear noise in your audio output (unintentional noise that is! hihi) the problem might not be your power module but a crappy or defective power brick instead!

This videois of my old Mean Well GS60A-P1J that I used back when I still was using a uZeus and a new Mean Well GS90A-P1M I got the other day. Almost identical model numbers except one is 60 watt/4 amp and the other is 90 watt/6 amp.

https://www.instagram.com/p/-n_FqaId2j/
MaxStatic
Can I pick some brains on a power question? The setup I'm building relies on using two separate Moog 60hp cases. Space is at an absolute premium. I have room for one uZeus but if I could do something fully internal that would get me some more space.

My current thought is to run a uZues in one case, cut a slot into the pair so I can run a second floating buss ribbon into the second case to power it. These two cases would be mounted in a Moog Mother-32 triple tier rack so the backs wouldn't be exposed really.

I had also thought about doing a Doepfer DIY style setup internally but I think the buss boards on those are too long to fit in the 60hp cases.

Regardless of how I power it, once done I may block in the rear portion of the rack holder in wood to make it look even more like one solid peice.

Anyone have any ideas or experience here? Total power consumption is pretty low, around 600mA/400mA on the 12v/-12v side of things and like 80mA on 5v so one unit should be able to handle both cases, it's just getting a functional/hidden/elegant solution for getting power from one into the other separate case.

Cheers all.
DJMaytag
I had been searching for this here, but the info on mains-wired power was being discussed in the DIY forum. Noting in here in case anyone else to s searching for this info to power their Eurorack system:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1200&postdays=0&post order=asc&start=0
___tomk
Good info - thanks!
Astronaut FX
Dumb question, but I hope here is the right place.

Being primarily a guitarist, I'm intimately aware that there are components within a tube guitar amp (caps) that retain a dangerous charge even after the amp is turned off and unplugged.

When it comes to eurorack, is there anything similar that I should be concerned with? I would assume not within the modules themselves, but maybe the power supply? Thus far, when I've added new modules, I've powered down the rack, unplugged it, and make sure it's been off for a while, and then while installing, am still careful to avoid the power supply.

Am I over thinking this?
microtonal
Astronaut FX wrote:
Dumb question, but I hope here is the right place.

Being primarily a guitarist, I'm intimately aware that there are components within a tube guitar amp (caps) that retain a dangerous charge even after the amp is turned off and unplugged.

When it comes to eurorack, is there anything similar that I should be concerned with? I would assume not within the modules themselves, but maybe the power supply? Thus far, when I've added new modules, I've powered down the rack, unplugged it, and make sure it's been off for a while, and then while installing, am still careful to avoid the power supply.

Am I over thinking this?


The capacitors in a euro power supply are much smaller than those in your power amp. They will discharge in a few seconds since the modules will still draw power from them after AC is off.
microtonal
Astronaut FX wrote:
Dumb question, but I hope here is the right place.

Being primarily a guitarist, I'm intimately aware that there are components within a tube guitar amp (caps) that retain a dangerous charge even after the amp is turned off and unplugged.

When it comes to eurorack, is there anything similar that I should be concerned with? I would assume not within the modules themselves, but maybe the power supply? Thus far, when I've added new modules, I've powered down the rack, unplugged it, and make sure it's been off for a while, and then while installing, am still careful to avoid the power supply.

Am I over thinking this?


The capacitors in a euro power supply are much smaller than those in your power amp. They will discharge in a few seconds since the modules will still draw power from them after AC is off.
Astronaut FX
microtonal wrote:
Astronaut FX wrote:
Dumb question, but I hope here is the right place.

Being primarily a guitarist, I'm intimately aware that there are components within a tube guitar amp (caps) that retain a dangerous charge even after the amp is turned off and unplugged.

When it comes to eurorack, is there anything similar that I should be concerned with? I would assume not within the modules themselves, but maybe the power supply? Thus far, when I've added new modules, I've powered down the rack, unplugged it, and make sure it's been off for a while, and then while installing, am still careful to avoid the power supply.

Am I over thinking this?



The capacitors in a euro power supply are much smaller than those in your power amp. They will discharge in a few seconds since the modules will still draw power from them after AC is off.


Great! Thank you so much!
Maxx mayhem
JohnLRice wrote:
This is a quick crappy video to show how different power bricks can make huge differences in noise levels, even when they are from the same company and almost identical brands! If you are having power problems or can hear noise in your audio output (unintentional noise that is! hihi) the problem might not be your power module but a crappy or defective power brick instead!

This videois of my old Mean Well GS60A-P1J that I used back when I still was using a uZeus and a new Mean Well GS90A-P1M I got the other day. Almost identical model numbers except one is 60 watt/4 amp and the other is 90 watt/6 amp.

https://www.instagram.com/p/-n_FqaId2j/


The 90 watt brick is required for the deluxe power. Your draw is skirting the maximum for the Deluxe Power to begin with, but your startup draw is likely higher which would take you over limit. The blinking LED indicates that you are trying to draw more power than the DP can put out on that rail. The guideline on their website is 2x 104 hp, so you might want to consider adding another Deluxe Power and dist. rail.
rkaratela
Yeah I love euroracks.
beegee
I just found out that the 5v led on my doepfer psu-3 is blinking.
What is wrong?
All modules seem to work fine (none of them use 5v)
hooligansound
A question about the 10 pin headers. If all six of the middle pins are GND, why does it need to be six of them?
JohnLRice
hooligansound wrote:
A question about the 10 pin headers. If all six of the middle pins are GND, why does it need to be six of them?
The less resistance the better and more parallel lines gives you less resistance.

I'm not sure this analogy is completely accurate but, think of the voltage lines as water pipes. Say you have a fancy hot = cold water fountain and if you have a 1/2" line going out for hot water and a 1/2" line going out for cold water, if you only have a 1/2" return line, you'll have a bottle neck and the fountain might overflow.

So, in the power supply if you have 2 lines/pins for +12v and 2 lines/pins for -12v and maybe 2 lines/pins for +5v, then 6 lines/pins for 0v ('GND') starts to make sense? cool
wertham
Good morning. It has been a very long while I have not been anything , but I will soon be back adding - hopefully - interesting mini-synths and noise-toys in the appropriate section.

I have recently purchased an excellent (and cheap) case I will soon talk about and moved the main modules of my set up inside it. Everything is powered up by a fully functional uzeus, (apart from the TROGO 676 that has its own power). The company I bought the uzeus from sent me a universal power plug http://www.electronicmegastore.it/prodotto-145717/AP924W.aspx.

Now, all connections are properly done, polarity is right, ecc, but when I switch on the system , the tip top intermittenly blinks in light blue, but modules do not seem to power up. I tried also to remove a couple of them (the DPO and the tiptop z3000), but still nothing works.
Ironically,whatever output I use there seems to be a signal that does TAC TAC TAC triggered by the power supply, but modules themselves seem dead, do not switch on, etc. (yet they work, I checked them on my other skiff).

this is my syst[/img]em, and its power request seems to be lower than those supplied. Am am I that dumb or did the shop send me the wrong power supply, ? Dead Banana not being an expert, anything is possible.


Power Consumption: 630 mA +12V | 306 mA -12V | 0 mA 5V |



Thanks to anybody who can help me.
Studio-ES
Does that AP924W universal power adapter have a selection for +15V? The uZeus power supply should be a +15VDC unregulated wall adapter
with a 2.5mm positive center pin connector
.
wertham
Yes! It is

I have selected the + +15VDC / 1,5 A / max 24 W
but maybe I am still getting something wrong
Scottzilla
Startup current for modules can be higher than what they draw just sitting there running (which is what the published mA figures tell you). Maybe the startup current for all the modules combined is more than the power supply can handle, so it says "nope, I'm out of here" repeatedly. Try unplugging modules one at a time to see if you can get the current below what the PS thinks it can handle.
Mostin77
Very helpful thread. Thanks everyone.
wertham
Scottzilla wrote:
Startup current for modules can be higher than what they draw just sitting there running (which is what the published mA figures tell you). Maybe the startup current for all the modules combined is more than the power supply can handle, so it says "nope, I'm out of here" repeatedly. Try unplugging modules one at a time to see if you can get the current below what the PS thinks it can handle.


thanks!
this is what I did this Sunday. Apparently my uZeus had been running with limited power because, quoting the manual:

"The uZEUS has a factory setting to self consume this current. If your uZEUS is powering more
than four (4) analog modules you can then disable this setting if desired to make this 1 00mA available for use by your modules. "

then it says:

"While the uZEUS is not powered look for header J7 (located below the blue
resistor) and remove the jumper. Re-insert the jumper such that it comes in
contact with only one pin. Once reinstalled in the system, the uZEUS will
provide the full 500mA of -1 2V power for your modules. "

my question is, before blowing up anything.
I have located the j7, but I am not sure how I have to reconnect the black jumper. which of the two pins? (left, right?)

Sorry if all this may sound silly...
moremagic
its a jumper to connect the two pins. if its just on one of them , it aint commecting them
either ones fine Miley Cyrus
Scottzilla
Yeah, the only reason they have you put it back on at all is so you don't lose it.
faustusb
FYI for others with maxed out uZeus bricks, the new tiptop uZeus Boost/Mantis 3000mA power supplies are showing up in stock at multiple vendors today. I picked one up from meme for $30.
Avjr
beegee wrote:
I just found out that the 5v led on my doepfer psu-3 is blinking.
What is wrong?
All modules seem to work fine (none of them use 5v)



I noticed the same thing today happening with my system. Do you know what it can be?
Fiddlestickz
* edit Nevermind answer found ...
Fugal
Hi all, I just upgraded from a TipTop uZeus to a 4ms Row Power 40. I didn't buy the 4ms flying bus cables because I just assumed the TipTop uZeus bus cables would fit, but this is not the case. Rookie mistake. The uZeus flying bus cables have a double-16pin connector, whereas the 4ms flying bus cables only have a single-16pin connector

4ms:


Tip Top:


Until I order and get the 4ms flying bus cables shipped, is it possible to safely connect and daisy chain multiple Tip Top flying bus boards to the 4ms Row Power 40? I remember seeing in the other thread that other users just cut one of the extra 16 pin connectors off.

Is this safe?
Natsche
I had no response in DIY thread so I will try here.

I have to buy a socket to connect power to my PSU3.
I will get a C14, switchable with a fuse holder socket, but I have to choose between a 1 pole or 2 pole fusing. Is it important for Eurorack ? My main power is 230V, if that make a difference.

And how do I "earth-shield" my system if my case is made out of wood, do I connect to the metal railing ?
psykon
So I've just got two malekko modules. The Wiard Envelator (2010 version) and the Richter Noisering. Im quite confused about how to connect these. There also seems to be no Manual for the Envelator and the Noise Ring Manual only deals with the functions on the front panel.

The connector on the Envelator looks like this


Now i thought that -12v would be on the side of the connector marked with "1". But on the Noisering, the connector looks like this:



On the noisering there is a stripe on one side of the connector, which I thoght indicated the -12v side of the connector. But this side is marked with pin "10", and pin "1" is on the opposite side of the "stripe".

Can anyone with one of those modules help me out. Or do I misinterpret the "stripe" on the noisering connector (and pin 1 means -12v)?

Thanks!
akavalve
Just noting this here in case anyone else runs into the same issue. I plugged a PM ADSR module in backwards and fried it. I emailed them and Perry at PM was really helpful. It turns out they protect their modules against reverse connections using two 10 ohm 1/8 watt resistors as fuses. I replaced the burned resistor and the module is good to go again.
SuspiciousMind
So, the best way to check where is your -12V, regardless the red stripe, is to check where is the triangle ??
psykon
As it turns out: While the Malekko Manuals do not show how to connect the modules, the faq on the site does:

Quote:
How do you align the power ribbon cable?
If your power ribbon cable is disconnected from the board on your module, you will need to re-connect it with the red stripe in the proper position on the connector. You’ll see that all the connectors on our modules are labeled with a small “1” and “10” in the corners of the pin header. It’s the “10” that you want to line up with the -12V on your power bus, and this is traditionally lined up with the red stripe on the ribbon cable. For modules that have the pin header oriented vertically, the bottom is the “10” pin, and should get the -12V connection. PLEASE NOTE: the Wiard Oscillator has a vertical power connector. That ribbon connects with the red stripe down!


I've connected the modules like that (-12v on pin 10) and everything went fine smile
wigwig
My question is the same as rhunt001's which was never answered.

Is it safe to assume that -12 is at the bottom of a Doepfer module?
I just got a 143-9 QLFO which has no markings. It arrived with power cable connected red stripe down.

JohnLRice wrote:
rhunt001 wrote:
Ah, so without saying it outright, Doepfer modules tend to have the -12V on the bottom of the module as a rule? This is the way I received it from AH, and the way I followed it according to that manual, but when I powered up the suitcase there was no indication of power.

After plugging into the module and attempting to get some output, it still was not making any noises or lighting up... hmm. waah

Well, I think there 'may" be exceptions so, be careful! If you are unsure you might want to wait until you can talk to someone who owns this module and can confirm some things for you.
wigwig
The answer is Yes.
I found the answer here:
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/A100_bus_orientation.pdf
Colinmalloycram
I put together my first few modules and the happy ending kit. Just wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread for ensuring that there wasn't a puff of smoke when I flipped the switch. applause
strangegravity
Recently I re-racked my system. I paid very close attention to how I was plugging the power cables in to the modules. Since my bus was keyed I paid less attention to plugging the cables in to the bus.

When I powered it up I smoked a module. Turns out there was a keyless ribbon cable in the mix. It was plugged in to the bus upside down. I don't know where it came from.

I've been doing this for a while so even experienced wigglers can screw up on power.
etantloh
I've seen this question asked a couple times but didn't see where it was answered.. I did start from the last page and worked my way back so perhaps I missed it but as I've been keyed in on finding the answer I think I would have seen it hmmm.....

I'm using 2 104hp Moog skiffs and am fairly certain I only need one uZeus if I use the right PSU (15v, 2000+mA). The issue is getting power to the 2nd skiff. I got this tip from a wiggler I purchased a couple modules from - he's powering 14 modules using well under 1000mA:

row

I bought extra flying busboards for the uZeus and connected one to the 3rd busboard connector on the uZeus. Then I finished it underneath a module with a slightly longer M3 screw, and an extra bolt as a buffer to keep the cable from being pinched. I then connected the last flying busboard to the end of that in the 2nd skiff.


According to ModularGrid, my system comes in at 1063 mA +12V | 436 mA -12V | 0 mA 5V. The 2 PSUs I currently have for my uZeus are rated at 1.1 and 1.4mA. so I ordered a 15v, 2400mA PSU - this should be adequate for power? I know I'll have to switch the jumper on the back of the uZeus to get all 500mA for -12v (uZeus provides 100mA by default). Anyone see any issue with this configuration?

https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/308745

Thank you in advance for your responses. I didn't want to post a new thread in the general discussion until I gave it a shot here despite (unless I missed it) similar questions not getting a response previously. seriously, i just don't get it

x
etantloh
Here's what finally happened:

I offset both modules (top and bottom row) with 2 nuts on each screw on the back of the module, using slightly longer M3 screws (don't recall exact length, 10mm I believe). The screws are tightened keeping the modules securely in place, but there is enough clearance that I can easily move the ribbon cable (it is not being pinched). Appearance-wise it looks pretty good/clean other than the modules not being completely flush with the case, and I can't think of a reason why that would be bad as long as the normal care was taken (kept in a clean environment, away from anything that might be spilled or could otherwise damage the synth).

Thoughts? Opinions?


nucleus
Hi everyone i have a doepfer a150 dual vcs which came with the power cable unattached. Can anyone confirm that the -12v is on the lower side of the rear connector? I did assume that is the case even after reading this thread but what got me thinking is that connecting it like that makes it really hard to position right next to other modules especially ones with deep pcbs right at the edge because the back connector is wider than the module itself at the front so it need be connected next to modules with a bit more space to one side. i can still work it like that and try with another power cable but it seems a bit weird smile

Can anyone confirm please that the -12v is at the bottom and not at the top?

Thanks
dubonaire
nucleus wrote:
Hi everyone i have a doepfer a150 dual vcs which came with the power cable unattached. Can anyone confirm that the -12v is on the lower side of the rear connector? I did assume that is the case even after reading this thread but what got me thinking is that connecting it like that makes it really hard to position right next to other modules especially ones with deep pcbs right at the edge because the back connector is wider than the module itself at the front so it need be connected next to modules with a bit more space to one side. i can still work it like that and try with another power cable but it seems a bit weird smile

Can anyone confirm please that the -12v is at the bottom and not at the top?

Thanks


Yes

talkboxert
Ok I'm looking for the right orientation on the following:

Animodule SOB v2 (sleeker panel)

Doepfer dual VCA A-132-3 the older version with the CEM VCA chips

PCB doesn't mention -12
charonme
http://www.doepfer.de/faq/a100_faq.htm#orientation%20bus%20cables
http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/A100_bus_orientation.pdf
nucleus
dubonaire wrote:
nucleus wrote:
Hi everyone i have a doepfer a150 dual vcs which came with the power cable unattached. Can anyone confirm that the -12v is on the lower side of the rear connector? I did assume that is the case even after reading this thread but what got me thinking is that connecting it like that makes it really hard to position right next to other modules especially ones with deep pcbs right at the edge because the back connector is wider than the module itself at the front so it need be connected next to modules with a bit more space to one side. i can still work it like that and try with another power cable but it seems a bit weird smile

Can anyone confirm please that the -12v is at the bottom and not at the top?

Thanks


Yes



cheers for the reply smile
DvStcH
I 've just built my first 104hp case to compliment a eurorack drum machine and benjolin my mate built me.
i've got a flying buss cable with 10 outputs on it, i've got about 12-13 modules i would like to include, i'm using 9 of the 10 connectors and i was wondering if it was possible to bodge another couple of cables out of the spare connector...
I'm thinking just pin between two females creating a daisy chain.
Does anyone else have experience of this?
(I'm still nowhere near the 80% mark btw)

Ta muchly!
JohnLRice
DvStcH wrote:
I 've just built my first 104hp case to compliment a eurorack drum machine and benjolin my mate built me.
i've got a flying buss cable with 10 outputs on it, i've got about 12-13 modules i would like to include, i'm using 9 of the 10 connectors and i was wondering if it was possible to bodge another couple of cables out of the spare connector...
I'm thinking just pin between two females creating a daisy chain.
Does anyone else have experience of this?
(I'm still nowhere near the 80% mark btw)

Ta muchly!
It's not the best thing to do but it will work. You can just plug another flying bus into the first one. (EDIT: plug the second flying buss into the first one using the connector that is closest to where it plugs into the power supply)

Or if you want a little mild DIY you can just add additional male connectors to the flying buss or make little mini flying buss extensions.

BaloErets
JohnLRice wrote:
DvStcH wrote:
I 've just built my first 104hp case to compliment a eurorack drum machine and benjolin my mate built me.
i've got a flying buss cable with 10 outputs on it, i've got about 12-13 modules i would like to include, i'm using 9 of the 10 connectors and i was wondering if it was possible to bodge another couple of cables out of the spare connector...
I'm thinking just pin between two females creating a daisy chain.
Does anyone else have experience of this?
(I'm still nowhere near the 80% mark btw)

Ta muchly!
It's not the best thing to do but it will work. You can just plug another flying bus into the first one. (EDIT: plug the second flying buss into the first one using the connector that is closest to where it plugs into the power supply)

Or if you want a little mild DIY you can just add additional male connectors to the flying buss or make little mini flying buss extensions.



Came to this thread wondering if this was possible. Everytime I head about daisy-chaining flying bus cables, it was always in the context of making the cable longer, i.e. attaching the 2nd cable to the end of the 1st cable.

I have my power supply in the 2nd row of a 9U case, and was hoping there was a solution to have more distribution across multiple rows (still well within power specs).

Really appreciate your post.
Farfield
Damn. One of those things you think will never happen to you because you're always careful about connecting the red stripe to -12v.

I just got a Doepfer A-156 dual quantizer which I connected carefully. Didn't look at how the power cable was connected to the module though, looks like it was upside down.

Another reminder to always check, even when the module comes with the power cable connected. I bought it used, they must have just attached a power cable without looking.

Did I permanently kill the module or is there anything that can be done?
Farfield
Well, looks like the A-156 is more forgiving of this than other modules, I tried again when I came home yesterday and it's working fine now! w00t
JohnLRice
Farfield wrote:
Well, looks like the A-156 is more forgiving of this than other modules, I tried again when I came home yesterday and it's working fine now! w00t
This is fun! applause
merchant
Just wanted to give a shout-out to Synovatron, they do very good Doepfer <-> Analogue Systems power adapters.

http://synovatron.blogspot.co.uk/p/adaptors-and-cables.html
bhinton
tl;dr version: installed a DIY (not by me) Elements and a Z3000mkii in a trogotronic case with 10A of power. Elements appeared to cause a great deal of instability in the Z3000 and a Titan Oscillator in the same system. Have read threads elsewhere implying power potentially being an issue with DIY MI builds, Any remedies for this, or am I stuck with an Elements that would need to live in its own little case w/dedicated power?

long version:
Not sure if any power experts can help here but worth a shot. Definitely seems to be a power issue.

Recently installed two new modules in a half-full Trogotronic Collier case that had tons of its 10A power still to spare: a tiptop Z3000 Mkii, and a DIY build of a MI Elements from an ebayer who has apparently done several successful DIY builds of MI stuff.

At first I thought something was wrong with the Z3000 - it was horribly unstable,behaving as if the oscillator was under control of a random signal for a full half hour after starting up, and even then constantly shifting +/- 5 to 10 hz in between 10-15 second bouts of stability.

Then I noticed that hitting the play button on Elements always caused the Z3000 to go up 2-3 hz, and that feeding audio into elements increased the instability of not only the Z3000, but also a Titan oscillator in the same system. A third oscillator (Mannequins Mangrove) was the only one unaffected.

I removed Elements. and while the Z3000 still sounds a bit off (probably needs calibration) and goes into pitch shifts for several seconds when patched or rematched, the constant shifting is gone. That Titan is once again stable (though now has about 1/4 tone difference between the two wave outputs, which it did not before - probably just a random thing).

Any advice or perspective appreciated.
WarpHead
I'm going to be installing my first Eurorack over the next couple of weeks. I'm going to read this thread religiously over that period.
shoottofill
So I have the Tiptop Audio Mantis case as my first case and have 4 modules for it (all Pittsburgh Modular).
I have the Mixer, ADSR and Dual VCA running just fine (have Mother 32 running with it, but NOT installed in this case).
I get the 8 step sequencer (https://www.modulargrid.net/e/pittsburgh-modular-sequencer-mk-ii) and every time I plug it in the one -12v light goes out and the +12v on whatever section its plugged in to (A, B, or C) goes out. It doesn't matter which other section I plug it into, that section's +12v light will go out. Is this too much for this board or am I missing something?

And yeah, I'm very new to all of this so thank you in advance.
shoottofill
shoottofill wrote:
So I have the Tiptop Audio Mantis case as my first case and have 4 modules for it (all Pittsburgh Modular).
I have the Mixer, ADSR and Dual VCA running just fine (have Mother 32 running with it, but NOT installed in this case).
I get the 8 step sequencer (https://www.modulargrid.net/e/pittsburgh-modular-sequencer-mk-ii) and every time I plug it in the one -12v light goes out and the +12v on whatever section its plugged in to (A, B, or C) goes out. It doesn't matter which other section I plug it into, that section's +12v light will go out. Is this too much for this board or am I missing something?

And yeah, I'm very new to all of this so thank you in advance.


Bad cable! All good now!
robin
Hey there, Modular newbie here.
Does anyone know where to find long ribbon cables? I've got my modules built into a folding mixer case, and would prefer longer cables so that i don't have to disconnect modules before closing it (you have to fully fold it up before it lets you fold it back down).

Also is there any reason against using longer ribbon cables (maybe more than 50cm)?

Thanks in advance.
Avjr
Has anyone switched the power cable for a angled one on a Doepfer suitcase? Has it made it possible to lie down the case on a table?

Thanks

Edit: just got one and found out for myself. The answer is no.
Batlikecreature
robin wrote:
Hey there, Modular newbie here.
Does anyone know where to find long ribbon cables? I've got my modules built into a folding mixer case, and would prefer longer cables so that i don't have to disconnect modules before closing it (you have to fully fold it up before it lets you fold it back down).


There was recently a discussion about longer power cable over on the modular subreddit: thread.
jpkelley123
I want the Tip Top Mantis case and I can't find it in stock anywhere!
oaklandzzzoo
Edit: nvm
sbmani
i'm trying to make a set of manual gates according to the doepfer DIY site.

so i'm still very new to DIY and making eurorack modules, so forgive me if this is a silly question:

the 10 pin header is really parallel rows of 5 pins. a pair of pins is for +12v. so if i want 2 gates in my module, should i run one line into each independent circuit from each +12v pin - i.e. one pin providing +12v for each gate - or would it make any difference if i ran one +12V pin to both gates sort of in parallel? i guess the resulting voltage coming out the gate would be different but i could manipulate the resistors to take care of that.

basically, do both +12v pins on the header need to be used?
jbid55
I have a 4MS Row Power, but didn't buy the power brick because I already had one. Turns out its 5.5x2.5mm on the tip vs 4ms recommended 2.1mm pin.

Will my power supply still work on the Row Power? Internet says yes, but I just want to make sure.
Handmedown
Just received my Cwejman VCO-2RM and plugged ribbon cable in to power as usual (red to -12). It shut down power for the whole bus board. Searched on Muffs for answer and got it. Cable had to be plugged in opposite to everyone else. No docs in box to indicate this had to be done. Yaa for Wowa making it protected from wrong polarity. Finally found the doc on Cwejman site. It was at very bottom of page on modular page. I didn't see it because I had not gone to very bottom as there was no text between paragraph on connecting and pdf doc. Anyway happy now and it works. :-)
CSCD
Guys, please help a modular noob out. As my first foray into modular, I decided to build a tiny FX skiff to go with my Dreadbox Erebus. So I ordered Mutable Clouds, Peaks & Shades, and an Erica Synths Pico Case (/w power supply).
Now, the problem is as follows:
1. Clouds doesn't work at all - no LEDs flashing, no sound coming out, nothing;
2. Peaks doesn't work either. However, one of its LEDs flashes for half a second when I turn on the power, then everything goes dead;
3. Shades seems to work fine, but only if it's the only module connected. As soon as I connect Peaks or Clouds, Shades goes dead, too.

I've made sure that the polarity is correct, and there was no hiss/kaboom/smoke, so I suspect that the power supply in the Pico Case doesn't output enough power (although it should be plenty enough according to the specs). But I'm not great with electronics - I'm just a musician who wanted to explore a different instrument.

So, what should I do before I return it to the store? What exactly should I check regarding the power supply? And is there a way to determine whether the modules are fine, seeing that I'm the only synth guy in my area, so I can't try them with someone else's system? Thanks in advance, and I apologize if my questions are stupid - I've just never dealt with this stuff before.
nickkwas
Hey everyone, my Intellijel Metropolis seems to be causing noise in my system. Danjel says its due to either my power supply lacking decent ground returns or not enough filter capacitance. I have a monorocket 12u case. Anyone have any ideas on how to remedy the issue?
joe_par
Hey guys,

So on my a160 and a161 modules, nothing is marked as "-12v" all there is are these strange symbols that kind of look like : 11cc+
11RR+

any idea which is the -12v? Thanks!


p:
ARunner
This thread was reassuring and super helpful.

I got a Maths&microZeus. Checked all the arrows&stripes, checked power 3xblue NP - Everything works, nothing blew up.

thumbs up
Np8191
[/img]Hi, I have a question if anyone knows. I want to connect the two modules with their in and out headers on the back of the PCB board. I was wondering, does the red stripe line on the ribbon cable connect along side of the white painted line on the board?? I posted couple pics to best describe what Im asking.
Did I make the right connection?
jenz
I know it's a stupid question but I don't want to mess-up my Synthrotek super power... So, what is the right way to connect a molex cable from the power module to a bus board and from a bus board to another bus board for daisy chaining?

Thanx!
jbid55
lol so pointless to ask questions in this thread. No one ever answers.
DJMaytag
jenz wrote:
I know it's a stupid question but I don't want to mess-up my Synthrotek super power... So, what is the right way to connect a molex cable from the power module to a bus board and from a bus board to another bus board for daisy chaining?

Thanx!

You don't. That's how.

Let's say you daisy chain 5 boards together. By the time you get to the 5th board, you've added the resistance of the previous 4 boards to the incoming power, meaning each successive board is getting less and less power. Do you want to reduce the amount of power available to the modules connected to that last board? Probably not.

The best way to connect multiple boards to one PSU is to run them in parallel off a distribution block, with each board getting its own power from that single point. It's not a very easy way to do it, but it's by far a better way to do it.
sallyshapirofreak
anyone know concretely which side is -12v?

future sound systems spectral devastator
Plop
Judging by the orientation of the two capacitors next to the power header -12 is at the edge of the board. Those are polarized filter caps and the orientation is always the same, for +12 it's the positive side to +12 and the negative side to ground and for -12 it's the negative side to -12 and the positive side to ground.
The white stripe on capacitors always indicate the negative side so to make sure you should flip the board and follow the trace to those capacitors.
sallyshapirofreak
thank you thank you. very helpful!
christian-heiko
is there something like a bi-plug for power? my bus-board has 20 connectors and for my next reconstruction-plan i need 21 smile
JohnLRice
christian-heiko wrote:
is there something like a bi-plug for power? my bus-board has 20 connectors and for my next reconstruction-plan i need 21 smile
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2329954#2329954
MoogCloud
Here's another n00b question:

If the Doepfer A-100PSU3 / A-100 power supply 3, states that it can provide 2,000 ma in +12 does that mean that only 1/3 of that is available to each of the 3 bus boards? Or, is it wired so that one bus could pull 900 ma? I'm just trying to understand the flow of power in the case. This is fun!
JohnLRice
MoogCloud wrote:
Here's another n00b question:

If the Doepfer A-100PSU3 / A-100 power supply 3, states that it can provide 2,000 ma in +12 does that mean that only 1/3 of that is available to each of the 3 bus boards? Or, is it wired so that one bus could pull 900 ma? I'm just trying to understand the flow of power in the case. This is fun!
Typically this: " wired so that one bus could pull 900 ma" thumbs up
MoogCloud
JohnLRice wrote:
MoogCloud wrote:
Here's another n00b question:

If the Doepfer A-100PSU3 / A-100 power supply 3, states that it can provide 2,000 ma in +12 does that mean that only 1/3 of that is available to each of the 3 bus boards? Or, is it wired so that one bus could pull 900 ma? I'm just trying to understand the flow of power in the case. This is fun!
Typically this: " wired so that one bus could pull 900 ma" thumbs up


Thanks John.... that makes sense to me. applause
propertyof
hi all, i'm thinking to have a skiff using a blank mother-32 case.
i'm thinking to do this for the power source:



pardon my photoshop skill, but you should get the point.
i'm thinking to drill & cut the case to make room for 4hp uZeus w/ flying bus board on the back of the case. i'm not savvy enough (or maybe just lazy) with electricity to setup a dedicated power bus board. but i don't want to use my HP for power module either, it creates heat near the other modules and also uzeus need to be positioned on far right which is a problem in my plan.
i know there's several powered case options but the mom case is the perfect size & design for my current purpose.
so this is what i propose.

it shouldn't be a problem right?
anyone have tried something similar?
rembrandtvanrijn
Assembling my first case just now and I have a few mismatches.

This cable is from my Synthrotek MST Stereo, the stripe and > line up on the module end but not the Bus Board end.



This one is from my Pittsburgh analog replicator, the stripe and > line up on the bus board end but not the module end.



What can I do..do I need to order new cables??
JohnLRice
rembrandtvanrijn wrote:
Assembling my first case just now and I have a few mismatches.

This cable is from my Synthrotek MST Stereo, the stripe and > line up on the module end but not the Bus Board end.

This one is from my Pittsburgh analog replicator, the stripe and > line up on the bus board end but not the module end.

What can I do..do I need to order new cables??
If you bought the modules new I'd contact the dealer or manufacturer and explain the situation. There is a slight chance that the cables were made 'wrong' on purpose because the modules were made 'wrong'? It's more likely that the cables were made wrong accidentally though so they should send you correct cables at no charge.

If you purchased the modules used you'll need to verify where the -12v is on the modules and if they are in the 'normal/correct' position you'll either need to buy new cables or fix the ones you have.

By fix I mean cut off the incorrect connector and put a new one on.
morphlex
Sorry, please delete this reply.
bernwerlin
delete please
pseudopatch
wow, i feel like there could be a whole lecture based on this thread alone. thanks for starting 'spbaker'
i know that the doepfer standard is to orient the -12v towards the bottom, when the IDC connector is oriented vertically (up + down.) but what is the doepfer standard when the IDC is oriented horizontally? still working my way through this massive thread, so apologies if this is addressed. question 2: how do you tell which part of the circuit is -12v by looking at the circuit board? by looking for the ground? Dead Banana
pseudopatch
could anyone address this part of propertyof's post? :

propertyof wrote:

it creates heat near the other modules


this is regarding his case for not using power modules on same row as audio + cv source modules.

could the heat emitted for a power module really be a problem? should I try to put less delicate or more passive modules next to my power modules?

Cat Girl Synth Forumcat #1
Midiot
Found this switching power supply in my garage :

=Melcher K Series, LK2540-7R, +15v, @5 amps (or at +12v, see below) 85-264v AC input.
https://belfuse.com/resources/PowerSolutions/KSeries/BCD20002-G_AD_K%2 0Series.pdf

OK, before it was in my garage...........a few years ago I picked-up 3 of these (new-in-box-old-stock) at a surplus store. At that time I did not have a modular, but I knew these would be put to good use, some day.

These are for heavy industry, and f you read the specs, it looks quite robust.
True, it is +15v, but they are adjustable with a single 16.2k ohm resistor....making it +12v (+12v, 0v, -12v).
There is a 12v version, too.......no resistor necessary.

I installed one in my 1200mA rack this evening, being very careful to read the manual before-hand. Everything seems ok so far.....all modules running smoothly. Dead silent. Measures +12.01v

Formerly, I was using the Doepfer A100 DIY1's (linear) power supply. The Doepfer Kit #1 was working, but the heatsink fins would get almost too hot to touch....and the same with the outboard transformer.

Now this new one is over-kill for my 2x84hp synth, but this allows me room to grow. Running for hours now, it's sealed metal case is barely warm to the touch.

Obviously buying this model "brand new" will set you back $1000.......so I'm not recommending it for a budget system.
On ebay they often go for $400-$600.
The +12v unit's part# is LK2320

I paid 50 bucks......a score ?
neil.johnson
Midiot how are you powering that supply? I hope not direct from the mains.

Neil
Midiot
neil.johnson wrote:
Midiot how are you powering that supply? I hope not direct from the mains.
Neil


It accepts an AC or DC input.
The model I have is the LK2540 which accepts 85v thru 264v AC (at 47 to 440 Hz).....so it's good anywhere on the world (above water)......just need a different power cord or a plug adapter.

https://belfuse.com/resources/PowerSolutions/KSeries/BCD20002-G_AD_K%2 0Series.pdf
neil.johnson
Midiot wrote:
neil.johnson wrote:
Midiot how are you powering that supply? I hope not direct from the mains.
Neil


It accepts an AC or DC input.
The model I have is the LK2540 which accepts 85v thru 264v AC.....so it's good anywhere on the world (above water)......just need a different power cord or a plug adapter.

https://belfuse.com/resources/PowerSolutions/KSeries/BCD20002-G_AD_K%2 0Series.pdf


Right, I understand that, BUT.... in your original post:

Midiot wrote:
Found this switching power supply in my garage :

=Melcher K Series, LK2540-7R, +15v, @5 amps (or at +12v, see below) 85-264v AC input.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bel-power-solutions/DK2540-7 R/DK2540-7R-ND/3534372

OK, before it was in my garage...........a few years ago I picked-up 3 of these (new-in-box-old-stock) at a surplus store. At that time I did not have a modular, but I knew these would be put to good use, some day.


you linked to the DK version which is a DC-input only configuration, and this might confuse folks into buying the wrong item, and then a big bang ensues.

Neil
Midiot
neil.johnson wrote:


you linked to the DK version which is a DC-input only configuration, and this might confuse folks into buying the wrong item, and then a big bang ensues.

Neil


You are correct. I edited the first link to correct that. Thanks.
Lesson.....read datasheets and catalogs very carefully.
benrossm
hey there, im just posting this here to be safe as ive never had an unlabeled module. i just got a delptronics ring mod module. it included a 16pin cable. it has 10 pins on the board. no label for -12 or red stripe. i am to assume that the pins on the left are the red strip/-12 since the pins on the right are +12?
smetak
Uploaded two days ago - essential!

Rex Coil 7
smetak wrote:
... essential!
Boy ... that's no shit! This video should be posted in it's own thread and tagged with a sticky. Aside from questions like "is this good for dubstep?" and "can I use my calculator's wall wart to power my Euro rack?" this video tackles what is most likely one of the (if not ~THE~) most asked questions among the entire membership of Miffwugglers.

Great find Member *smetak ... jolly good find indeed! thumbs up
Gaetan
Thanks for the video. Very informative, I'm a total beginner in Eurorack and I found it crystal clear, which is very welcome considering how scary and confusing that whole issue is.
smetak
Rex Coil 7 wrote:
smetak wrote:
... essential!
Boy ... that's no shit! This video should be posted in it's own thread and tagged with a sticky. Aside from questions like "is this good for dubstep?" and "can I use my calculator's wall wart to power my Euro rack?" this video tackles what is most likely one of the (if not ~THE~) most asked questions among the entire membership of Miffwugglers.

Great find Member *smetak ... jolly good find indeed! thumbs up


You're welcome! I found the video most enlightening, considering that it deals with the most intense moment of the Fine Art of Modular - correctly connecting these damn panels to their respective sockets. Always a pain in the arse!

And just like him, I have a Doepfer s&h, a148, which is a nightmare to connect. This has really been godsend!
Rex Coil 7
benrossm wrote:
hey there, im just posting this here to be safe as ive never had an unlabeled module. i just got a delptronics ring mod module. it included a 16pin cable. it has 10 pins on the board. no label for -12 or red stripe. i am to assume that the pins on the left are the red strip/-12 since the pins on the right are +12?
I'm going with ~yes~ (in response to your query). The "red stripe" is simply a reference to help one connect the cable in proper orientation to the power distribution gadget (whether that gadget be a soft bus, or distribution card, or distribution board). That said, if you connect the ribbon cable to the distribution gadget so that the red stripe is aligned with the negative pins, then connect the other end of the ribbon cable to the module with the red stripe also aligned with the negative pins on the module's PCB.

And risking redundancy, "yes" it appears as though the negative pins on the PCB of the module you've posted a picture of are on the left of that image (said another way, the pins closest to the "Delptronics" logo appear to be ~negative~).

I hope this message reaches you before you've had any problems, it seems your post and the question you've presented were skipped over.

Best of luck Member *benrossm.

cool
Rex Coil 7
Rex Coil 7 wrote:
benrossm wrote:
hey there, im just posting this here to be safe as ive never had an unlabeled module. i just got a delptronics ring mod module. it included a 16pin cable. it has 10 pins on the board. no label for -12 or red stripe. i am to assume that the pins on the left are the red strip/-12 since the pins on the right are +12?
I'm going with ~yes~ (in response to your query). The "red stripe" is simply a reference to help one connect the cable in proper orientation to the power distribution gadget (whether that gadget be a soft bus, or distribution card, or distribution board). That said, if you connect the ribbon cable to the distribution gadget so that the red stripe is aligned with the negative pins, then connect the other end of the ribbon cable to the module with the red stripe also aligned with the negative pins on the module's PCB.

And risking redundancy, "yes" it appears as though the negative pins on the PCB of the module you've posted a picture of are on the left of that image (said another way, the pins closest to the "Delptronics" logo appear to be ~negative~).

I hope this message reaches you before you've had any problems, it seems your post and the question you've presented were skipped over (this response is only about nine months late ... geez!). Oh well, perhaps it will help others that stumble across this.

Best of luck Member *benrossm.

cool
liquidsn
Question. I have a Intellijel 7u 104hp case. Even though I haven't had any modules that require +5V, I get confused about it.

What does it mean to have a +5V rail? My case has 1500mA +5V, is it automatically used when a 16pin connector is used?

Why is there +5V Adapters?

I just got into modular this year, so I'm guessing there used to be power adapters that didn't have +5v?

Thanks for the noob question.
BailyDread
I have a LPZW WK1 that has only one row of 4 pins on the module but the cable has 2 rows of 4 on the connector... which side do I plug in? I wish this were written in the manual seriously, i just don't get it
JohnLRice
Hi and welcome liquidsn w00t

liquidsn wrote:
My case has 1500mA +5V, is it automatically used when a 16pin connector is used?
It's only used if the module needs it and a 16 pin to 16 pin cable is used. There are some modules that have 16 pin connectors on them but they don't use +5v at all, those pins are just not connected to anything. (like some Synth Tech modules etc)

liquidsn wrote:
Why is there +5V Adapters?
Some power supplies only provide +-12v rails, no +5v rail, and a lot of power distribution buss boards don't have on-board +5v regulators so if you had a setup with no +5v available in your case at all and needed to use a module that requires +5v you might use a little +5v adapter.
Franktree
Quick question I'm hoping someone knows the answer to. I just bought a Tip Top One sample player used. It came with a 16 pin to 16 pin power cable, but the back of the module isn't like anything I've seen before. There's one set of 5 pins and one set of 8 pins. There's no 10 pin or 16 pin connection. So I'm not clear what I'm supposed to do? Just hook half of the 16-pin cable up to the module and the full 16 pin cable into my case power? Is there some special cable this particular module has that just wasn't provided with the module?

Any One owners out there who can help? Thanks in advance!
JohnLRice
Franktree wrote:
Quick question I'm hoping someone knows the answer to. I just bought a Tip Top One sample player used. It came with a 16 pin to 16 pin power cable, but the back of the module isn't like anything I've seen before. There's one set of 5 pins and one set of 8 pins. There's no 10 pin or 16 pin connection. So I'm not clear what I'm supposed to do? Just hook half of the 16-pin cable up to the module and the full 16 pin cable into my case power? Is there some special cable this particular module has that just wasn't provided with the module?

Any One owners out there who can help? Thanks in advance!
Some newer modules that are narrow and have densely packed PCBs use just a single row of power pins to save space. On the ONE notice the top set of pins is 6 (not 5) and likely used for programming the module at the factory. The bottom row of 8 pins it the one to use for power, notice the arrow pointing to the bottom pin and text that says "red line"? cool
Franktree
JohnLRice wrote:
Some newer modules that are narrow and have densely packed PCBs use just a single row of power pins to save space. On the ONE notice the top set of pins is 6 (not 5) and likely used for programming the module at the factory. The bottom row of 8 pins it the one to use for power, notice the arrow pointing to the bottom pin and text that says "red line"?


That's incredibly helpful, thanks! So I just connect one side of the 16-pin cable and not the other, or I need a special cable? Assuming I just use a regular cable and connect only half, does it matter which side I use? I assume no?
JohnLRice
Franktree wrote:
JohnLRice wrote:
Some newer modules that are narrow and have densely packed PCBs use just a single row of power pins to save space. On the ONE notice the top set of pins is 6 (not 5) and likely used for programming the module at the factory. The bottom row of 8 pins it the one to use for power, notice the arrow pointing to the bottom pin and text that says "red line"?


That's incredibly helpful, thanks! So I just connect one side of the 16-pin cable and not the other, or I need a special cable? Assuming I just use a regular cable and connect only half, does it matter which side I use? I assume no?
Either side of the connector is fine since the two rows are connected in parallel:
Franktree
Perfect. Thank you!
S0210


So what's your take? It's a cheap DSPsynth module.
Is (1) the +12 and (2) the -12 or the other way around?

Kind regards, András
JohnLRice
S0210 wrote:


So what's your take? It's a cheap DSPsynth module.
Is (1) the +12 and (2) the -12 or the other way around?

Kind regards, András
What is the brand and model number of the module? hmmm..... seriously, i just don't get it

I would "guess" based on the picture that #2 is the -12v but, guessing can be expensive! FUUUCCKKKK!!!
S0210
JohnLRice wrote:
What is the brand and model number of the module? hmmm..... seriously, i just don't get it
I would "guess" based on the picture that #2 is the -12v but, guessing can be expensive!


It's from the notoriously unreliable Jan Ostman & DSPsynth. The brand has a very bad reputation. Their modules are automatically removed from search results of ModularGrid.

But I think you're right. I've just found a relevant schematics of the DIY version and "D1" sign is clearly readable on the PCB.



Cheers, Andras
JohnLRice
S0210 wrote:
JohnLRice wrote:
What is the brand and model number of the module? hmmm..... seriously, i just don't get it
I would "guess" based on the picture that #2 is the -12v but, guessing can be expensive!


It's from the notoriously unreliable Jan Ostman & DSPsynth. The brand has a very bad reputation. Their modules are automatically removed from search results of ModularGrid.

But I think you're right. I've just found a relevant schematics of the DIY version and "D1" sign is clearly readable on the PCB.



Cheers, Andras
thumbs up Seems the "+" sign didn't get printed well on the PCB but it's clearly visable in the build documents:
LazyCircuit
Rather odd question.

I know you can transplant a Behringer model D into a Eurorack case but can you use the existing case to power a busboard and run modules?

https://youtu.be/veWQ2r9fUWA

Picking a case up might be cheaper than a 4ms pod.
deftinwulf
LazyCircuit wrote:
Rather odd question.

I know you can transplant a Behringer model D into a Eurorack case but can you use the existing case to power a busboard and run modules?

https://youtu.be/veWQ2r9fUWA

Picking a case up might be cheaper than a 4ms pod.


Actually there was a guy at NAMM who announced his "Boat" PSUs for the Moog M32 (and possibly DFAM?) so you could repurpose those as eurorack cases if you had taken the Moog out to rack in your euro case. It's a busboard and PSU solution that fits inside the Moog case.

The Behringer cases are a similar design so if there was demand for it, I could see the guy potentially making them for the Behringer synths as a well (Model D, Neutron).

Unfortunately, the man and his company's name is completely escaping me at the moment, and I couldn't find anything useful from a cursory google search, but the video should still available in SonicState's NAMM coverage videos, which is where I saw it. People on Muffs will definitely know him, he's a modular maker. Wears a suit and hat, I think.
deftinwulf
Found it, it's STG Soundlabs doing the "Boat Rocker". thumbs up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ra7Bs-dfRg
S0210
Deleted.
l1fef0rm
Just lost a new 48x Max Pod due to this, fried the whole bus board (so much smoke!). I will never make this mistake again. Luckily my modules all seem to have survived, I only now tested each one, really fast (just happened). I was shaking with fear and anger. Who keys a multi cable upside down??? Oh, 4MS, that's who.

If my modules sound ok and function correctly, I shouldn't worry about any issue showing its face later on because of this, correct? I've never had anything like this happen before.

[/img]
JohnLRice
l1fef0rm wrote:
Just lost a new 48x Max Pod due to this, fried the whole bus board (so much smoke!). I will never make this mistake again. Luckily my modules all seem to have survived, I only now tested each one, really fast (just happened). I was shaking with fear and anger. Who keys a multi cable upside down??? Oh, 4MS, that's who.

If my modules sound ok and function correctly, I shouldn't worry about any issue showing its face later on because of this, correct? I've never had anything like this happen before.

[/img]
eek! d'oh! angry cry Ouch! Which modules did you have connected? I'm assuming at least one didn't have a shrouded header? I'm sure you've already contacted 4ms about this but if not do it right away.
l1fef0rm
I had a Doepfer A-119, MI Ripples, and a MI Peaks clone on the multi power strip. none of which are slotted (they were in proper). I just popped the power to the header because it was keyed and both the pod and cable came from 4ms. I thought nothing of it. The A-119 is now dead, it was the first on the chain. When I plug it into my main box (Pittsburgh Modular Structure 96) the whole thing powers down (not trying that anymore).

I will be contacting 4MS first thing tomorrow (before calling up my regular shop where I bought it. Ultimately, I feel like its my fault. I should not have trusted the header. Won't make this mistake again, this is certain.
l1fef0rm
JohnLRice wrote:
l1fef0rm wrote:
Just lost a new 48x Max Pod due to this, fried the whole bus board (so much smoke!). I will never make this mistake again. Luckily my modules all seem to have survived, I only now tested each one, really fast (just happened). I was shaking with fear and anger. Who keys a multi cable upside down??? Oh, 4MS, that's who.

If my modules sound ok and function correctly, I shouldn't worry about any issue showing its face later on because of this, correct? I've never had anything like this happen before.

[/img]
eek! d'oh! angry cry Ouch! Which modules did you have connected? I'm assuming at least one didn't have a shrouded header? I'm sure you've already contacted 4ms about this but if not do it right away.


I forgot to thank you for your concern, it means a lot. Hobbes Everyone is so nice here. love Gear loss hurts.
neil.johnson
That is clearly a defective product. You have suffered loss. If I were you I would be talking to the shop first (and if they shrug their shoulders then the manufacturer) about repair or replacement of any damaged modules, plus a new cable.

Neil
smetak
That's why I always check and double check the cables before powering up - most tense thing there is.

I check even if the cable comes connected to the module right out of the box - even from a reputable brand - mistakes can happen.

Coincidentally, just mounted a new rig this weekend with a 4MS Sampler - it came connected with its own cable - but, nonetheless, checked the connection, especially considering the price of the thing.

Already posted here on the thread, but can't recommend the clip enough:



Essential viewing!
luchog
I have a bit of a problem. I have a Harvestman (pre-IME) Polivoks VCF. The header is unshrouded and does not have any markings indicating the appropriate direction for the power cable.

I can't find a manual that gives me any indication of the direction either.

Anyone happen to have any info on this one?
cackland
Does the module have diodes around the header area?

If so, there should be an indication of the polarity of those diodes. Depending on the diode, the indication varies (A line, a stroke etc) The diode with its indicator facing away from the header should be the +12v, and the the opposite for the -12V.

A picture would help smile
JohnLRice
luchog wrote:
I have a bit of a problem. I have a Harvestman (pre-IME) Polivoks VCF. The header is unshrouded and does not have any markings indicating the appropriate direction for the power cable.

I can't find a manual that gives me any indication of the direction either.

Anyone happen to have any info on this one?
I don't have mine any more and can't remember. Did you try to contact the company? They are nice folks and can help you! thumbs up If you don't want to wait and want to make a reasonable guess, a Google image search turned up two different versions showing power cables attached. The cables are likely attached correctly . . . . .probably . . . hmmm..... hihi



smetak
Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).

I remember that I was "almost certain" of the polarity, until I received a reply from them and found out I was completely amiss. So, DO NOT connect it before contacting them! Their reply is usually very prompt.
Rex Coil 7
smetak wrote:
Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).

I remember that I was "almost certain" of the polarity, until I received a reply from them and found out I was completely amiss. So, DO NOT connect it before contacting them! Their reply is usually very prompt.
... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!
smetak
Rex Coil 7 wrote:
smetak wrote:
Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).

I remember that I was "almost certain" of the polarity, until I received a reply from them and found out I was completely amiss. So, DO NOT connect it before contacting them! Their reply is usually very prompt.
... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!


Yeah, that's the usual feeling I have when I encounter unmarked PCBs......pain in the arse!
luchog
smetak wrote:
Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).


I've emailed them about this. Hopefully I'll hear back soon.

Rex Coil 7 wrote:
... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!


Sharpie ain't a-gonna show up well on that black PCB mask. I'm busting out the red paint to mark this thing.
Rex Coil 7
luchog wrote:
smetak wrote:
Had the same exact problem with connecting the Polivoks a few months ago - yep, there are no markings and nothing in the manual - can't for the life of me understand why they they have to make this so friggin' hard! - the only way of doing it right is contacting them directly (not at home right now, so the module itself is out of reach and can't find their reply - must have deleted it by accident).


I've emailed them about this. Hopefully I'll hear back soon.

Rex Coil 7 wrote:
... then bust out the Sharpie and MARK that sumbitch!


Sharpie ain't a-gonna show up well on that black PCB mask. I'm busting out the red paint to mark this thing.
Silver Sharpie ....
charonme
cackland wrote:
Does the module have diodes around the header area?

If so, there should be an indication of the polarity of those diodes. Depending on the diode, the indication varies (A line, a stroke etc) The diode with its indicator facing away from the header should be the +12v, and the the opposite for the -12V.

NO!!!, don't! you kids get off my lawn

this depends on where the other end of the diode is going!!! Some manufacturers use a protection schottky diode that is supposed to short the power source when plugged incorrectly, these have the diode anode connected to -12v input and cathode to +12v. Others use diodes connected in the power path that would prevent current flow if the power was plugged in incorrectly, one has its cathode connected to -12v and the other has its anode connected to +12v

I'd rather check where the power decoupling polarized capacitors are connected, usually +12v -> [+]cap[-] -> gnd -> [+]cap[-] -> -12v

also if you can see some common ICs on the board like tl074 or lm13700, find which pins are supposed to be connected to +V and -V in their datasheets and check it on the board with a continuity tester
sutekina bipu-on
What would you guys suggest if i was to make a 12U open frame rack like this with the necessary extra rails to mount euro? I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with distributing power.

This kind of frame


Should i install a shelf in it to hold a bus board and switching psu?
uZeus is a no go because i have too much stuff to power for 1a.
BlinkyLights
As soon as a delivery arrives this week I'll be getting rid of the flying bus cables that came with my uZeus and replacing those ribbon cable chains with Bus Boards from MDLR.

Anyone here done this specific thing before? Any tips or comments? Thanks.
cptnal
sutekina bipu-on wrote:
What would you guys suggest if i was to make a 12U open frame rack like this with the necessary extra rails to mount euro? I'm trying to figure out the best way to deal with distributing power.

This kind of frame


Should i install a shelf in it to hold a bus board and switching psu?
uZeus is a no go because i have too much stuff to power for 1a.


I briefly considered this option when I was researching a case for myself earlier this year. I decided against it mainly because I reckoned the cats would get at the power. Here's some of the discussions I had around the issues. Maybe you'll find something useful in there...

http://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=111880&postdays=0&pos torder=asc&start=2275&sid=aeae465ed37fd390c8ffb421078daf28
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