Free Case Design Plans (open source modular cases)

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nathanxl
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Free Case Design Plans (open source modular cases)

Post by nathanxl » Thu Dec 17, 2015 10:35 pm

Free Case Designs

In an attempt to give something back to this community Ive decided to release all of my Eurorack Flatpack Lasercut Case Designs (over 30 of them). I see the expensive modular case as a kind of barrier on entry into this great world of sound and I hope noobs as well as experts alike will get some benefit out of these free/open source designs.
Also its my subversive ploy to hasten and accelerate our impending post-capitalist future… :)
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Ive put them up on www.thingiverse.com
Do a search for "Eurorack Lasercut Case” there to see the whole collection.
Included are .skp files that you can open and modify these designs in Sketchup (http://www.sketchup.com) its a free and easy 3D modelling program.
Also included are .dxf files that can be sent straight to a laser cutter for cutting. All these designs are for 7mm thick sheet material, plywood - MDF - Acrylic.
Lasercutting services are becoming quite commonplace nowadays. Lots of hackerspaces and FabLabs have them and online services like https://www.ponoko.com/ are quite decent in their pricing. Please report back to this thread if you find cheap/good services so others can be informed.

There are other documents in the downloads to give tips and advice regarding these cases, please read them.
All designs are free for your personal use, (credit where necessary is appreciated) however please be kind and don’t redistribute or resell them.
Most rails work with these designs but no responsibility is taken if, for any reason, there is an issue with alignment or spacing.

Ill list the designs here with links to the download page to make it easy for you to find what you want (the mm measurement in the title designates the internal depth of the case):

42HP 3U Skiff 70mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205874
42HP 4U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205901
84HP 3U 93mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205913
84HP 3U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205983
84HP 3U 63mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206004
84HP 3U 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206029
84HP 4U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206047
84HP 4U 133mm 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206051
84HP 6U 80mm Skiff and Lid - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206069
84HP 6U 93mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206075
84HP 6U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206087
84HP 6U Skiff 63mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206102
84HP 6U Studio - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206118
84HP 7U 93mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206125
84HP 7U 123mm 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206141
84HP 7U 123mm with Lid - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206275
84HP 9U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206304
84HP 9U Studio - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206307
84HP 11U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206311
104HP 3U Skiff 63mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206319
104HP 8U 83mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206325
104HP 12U Studio Case - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206334
42HP Vectrex Synth Case - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206348
84HP 7U Studio 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207296
84HP 21U Studio Tower - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207319
104HP 13U Skiff 83mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207335
168HP 6U Skiff 83mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207342

Holes for rails accept M5 bolts. 10-12mm recommended.

For Ponoko. Try converting the .dxf to .eps with http://www.office-converter.com/DXF-to-EPS then in illustrator or GIMP change the cut lines to blue. Check size before cut. Ponoko have 6.4mm ply that can be used with these designs. If you are concerned about the 0.5mm overlap on the joins it should be easy to sand back with reasonably course sandpaper.

Polotu charges $118 to cut/supply the 6U with lid.(from d.lewis1190)
Post your tips/tricks and finding to this thread.

For modifying these files in Sketchup. Play around a while, lengths, sizes, hinges, handles, latches and locks are all possible with a little work... Work I dont want to do. ;)

Enjoy
Last edited by nathanxl on Mon Dec 28, 2015 1:43 am, edited 4 times in total.
https://nathanjohnthompson.wordpress.com
"The risk of reverse engineering is that we come to imagine that the only things worth knowing about products are the technical details hidden behind the curtain. I argue that the cultural lives and imaginations of the people behind the curtain are as important, if not more, for understanding how these systems come to exist and function as they do."

sammy123
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Post by sammy123 » Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:01 pm

Awesome. Thank you!

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Post by jamsk » Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:43 pm

sammy123 wrote:Awesome. Thank you!
Ditto and to add amazing! Thanks loads :tu:

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masterofstuff124
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Post by masterofstuff124 » Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:42 am

any tips on how i could get these made?

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Matos
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Post by Matos » Fri Dec 18, 2015 12:47 am

He mentions links in the post regarding getting them made.

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masterofstuff124
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Post by masterofstuff124 » Fri Dec 18, 2015 2:23 am

∆ doh! Thanks.

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goiks
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Post by goiks » Fri Dec 18, 2015 2:27 am

nice work nathan!
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Post by Jarno » Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:25 am

Capitalism is not dead, it just smells funny! :D

Looks great! So, you have no defined clearance in the finger joints, it is just the cutting kerf which provides the clearance, does that work well? Or do you need to sand a little to get the parts fitted?

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Post by andrewF » Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:38 am

No need to sand anything (unless you want to paint them).
These go together very easily.
All members of the WAMod synth DIY group have at least one and many Aussie Wigglers have them as well.

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Post by dirkwiggler » Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:50 am

Big fan :hail:

Particularly like the 84HP 21U Studio Tower... 8-)

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Post by wallyp » Fri Dec 18, 2015 3:51 am

Keep what you got by giving it all away. The Open Source juggernaught rolls on! Yeah!

Anyone in Manchester UK who wants to get these cut, get in touch. I have a large laser cutter and plenty of operating experience. Will trade for modules ;)

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Post by synchromesh » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:17 am

Wow, these look great! Thanks for making them available.

I see that the files on Thingiverse are licensed as CC-BY-3.0, which only requires attribution and expressly permits sharing, modification and commercial use. Is this consistent with your intentions?

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bezier
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Post by bezier » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:35 am

This is amazing! :party:

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HipDestroyer
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Post by HipDestroyer » Fri Dec 18, 2015 4:49 am

YES!! THANK YOU!!! :hyper:

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Post by edwinm » Fri Dec 18, 2015 5:01 am

Amazing!

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Post by duff » Fri Dec 18, 2015 5:34 am

:hail: :tu:

Very generous. Thank you.

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nathanxl
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Post by nathanxl » Fri Dec 18, 2015 5:50 am

synchromesh wrote:Wow, these look great! Thanks for making them available.
I see that the files on Thingiverse are licensed as CC-BY-3.0, which only requires attribution and expressly permits sharing, modification and commercial use. Is this consistent with your intentions?
Thanks. Its sorted now, Ive never "Thingied" before. :)
https://nathanjohnthompson.wordpress.com
"The risk of reverse engineering is that we come to imagine that the only things worth knowing about products are the technical details hidden behind the curtain. I argue that the cultural lives and imaginations of the people behind the curtain are as important, if not more, for understanding how these systems come to exist and function as they do."

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Post by okelk » Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:14 am

Awesome!
Thanks! :yay:

...hm...does anybody know what how strong a laser approximately needs to be to cut 7mm wood?
...I doubt that I can get through that with the 40w CO2-laser I have access to...

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Post by bcitral » Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:15 am

Wow Nathan, super generous with near perfect timing.

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Post by Jarno » Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:15 am

By the way, just read your explanation in the RTF, on using wooden rails.
I use wooden rails in my cases, but I am always afraid of directly screwing into the ends of the dowels, it splits horribly.

I use these angle plates to mount them (pointing backwards obviously):
Image

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nathanxl
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Post by nathanxl » Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:26 am

Jarno wrote: I use wooden rails in my cases, but I am always afraid of directly screwing into the ends of the dowels, it splits horribly.
I use these angle plates to mount them (pointing backwards obviously):
Image
Great idea, cheers. :bananaguitar:
https://nathanjohnthompson.wordpress.com
"The risk of reverse engineering is that we come to imagine that the only things worth knowing about products are the technical details hidden behind the curtain. I argue that the cultural lives and imaginations of the people behind the curtain are as important, if not more, for understanding how these systems come to exist and function as they do."

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Post by Reality Checkpoint » Fri Dec 18, 2015 6:38 am

People doing stuff like this makes me proud to be a wiggler.

:hail:

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Joe.
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Post by Joe. » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:00 am

Instructions unclear, all my modules stuck in birdhouse now.

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Post by Befacosynth » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:15 am

Mr Thompson: You are just great. THANKS A LOT!! :nana:
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nathanxl
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Post by nathanxl » Fri Dec 18, 2015 7:20 am

okelk wrote:..does anybody know what how strong a laser approximately needs to be to cut 7mm wood?..
I used a 150W C02 tube laser running at around 32mA to easily cut 7mm MDF and regular pine based ply.
Hardwood and marine ply wasnt possible.
https://nathanjohnthompson.wordpress.com
"The risk of reverse engineering is that we come to imagine that the only things worth knowing about products are the technical details hidden behind the curtain. I argue that the cultural lives and imaginations of the people behind the curtain are as important, if not more, for understanding how these systems come to exist and function as they do."

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