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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Free Case Design Plans (open source modular cases)
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Free Case Design Plans (open source modular cases)
nathanxl
Free Case Designs

In an attempt to give something back to this community Ive decided to release all of my Eurorack Flatpack Lasercut Case Designs (over 30 of them). I see the expensive modular case as a kind of barrier on entry into this great world of sound and I hope noobs as well as experts alike will get some benefit out of these free/open source designs.
Also its my subversive ploy to hasten and accelerate our impending post-capitalist future… smile



Ive put them up on www.thingiverse.com
Do a search for "Eurorack Lasercut Case” there to see the whole collection.
Included are .skp files that you can open and modify these designs in Sketchup (http://www.sketchup.com) its a free and easy 3D modelling program.
Also included are .dxf files that can be sent straight to a laser cutter for cutting. All these designs are for 7mm thick sheet material, plywood - MDF - Acrylic.
Lasercutting services are becoming quite commonplace nowadays. Lots of hackerspaces and FabLabs have them and online services like https://www.ponoko.com/ are quite decent in their pricing. Please report back to this thread if you find cheap/good services so others can be informed.

There are other documents in the downloads to give tips and advice regarding these cases, please read them.
All designs are free for your personal use, (credit where necessary is appreciated) however please be kind and don’t redistribute or resell them.
Most rails work with these designs but no responsibility is taken if, for any reason, there is an issue with alignment or spacing.

Ill list the designs here with links to the download page to make it easy for you to find what you want (the mm measurement in the title designates the internal depth of the case):

42HP 3U Skiff 70mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205874
42HP 4U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205901
84HP 3U 93mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205913
84HP 3U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205983
84HP 3U 63mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206004
84HP 3U 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206029
84HP 4U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206047
84HP 4U 133mm 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206051
84HP 6U 80mm Skiff and Lid - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206069
84HP 6U 93mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206075
84HP 6U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206087
84HP 6U Skiff 63mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206102
84HP 6U Studio - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206118
84HP 7U 93mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206125
84HP 7U 123mm 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206141
84HP 7U 123mm with Lid - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206275
84HP 9U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206304
84HP 9U Studio - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206307
84HP 11U 123mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206311
104HP 3U Skiff 63mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206319
104HP 8U 83mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206325
104HP 12U Studio Case - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206334
42HP Vectrex Synth Case - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1206348
84HP 7U Studio 10mm Acrylic - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207296
84HP 21U Studio Tower - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207319
104HP 13U Skiff 83mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207335
168HP 6U Skiff 83mm - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207342

Holes for rails accept M5 bolts. 10-12mm recommended.

For Ponoko. Try converting the .dxf to .eps with http://www.office-converter.com/DXF-to-EPS then in illustrator or GIMP change the cut lines to blue. Check size before cut. Ponoko have 6.4mm ply that can be used with these designs. If you are concerned about the 0.5mm overlap on the joins it should be easy to sand back with reasonably course sandpaper.

Polotu charges $118 to cut/supply the 6U with lid.(from d.lewis1190)
Post your tips/tricks and finding to this thread.

For modifying these files in Sketchup. Play around a while, lengths, sizes, hinges, handles, latches and locks are all possible with a little work... Work I dont want to do. wink

Enjoy
sammy123
Awesome. Thank you!
jamsk
sammy123 wrote:
Awesome. Thank you!

Ditto and to add amazing! Thanks loads thumbs up
masterofstuff124
any tips on how i could get these made?
Matos
He mentions links in the post regarding getting them made.
masterofstuff124
∆ doh! Thanks.
goiks
nice work nathan!
Jarno
Capitalism is not dead, it just smells funny! grin

Looks great! So, you have no defined clearance in the finger joints, it is just the cutting kerf which provides the clearance, does that work well? Or do you need to sand a little to get the parts fitted?
andrewF
No need to sand anything (unless you want to paint them).
These go together very easily.
All members of the WAMod synth DIY group have at least one and many Aussie Wigglers have them as well.
dirkwiggler
Big fan we're not worthy

Particularly like the 84HP 21U Studio Tower... cool
wallyp
Keep what you got by giving it all away. The Open Source juggernaught rolls on! Yeah!

Anyone in Manchester UK who wants to get these cut, get in touch. I have a large laser cutter and plenty of operating experience. Will trade for modules wink
synchromesh
Wow, these look great! Thanks for making them available.

I see that the files on Thingiverse are licensed as CC-BY-3.0, which only requires attribution and expressly permits sharing, modification and commercial use. Is this consistent with your intentions?
bezier
This is amazing! w00t
HipDestroyer
YES!! THANK YOU!!! hyper
edwinm
Amazing!
duff
we're not worthy thumbs up

Very generous. Thank you.
nathanxl
synchromesh wrote:
Wow, these look great! Thanks for making them available.
I see that the files on Thingiverse are licensed as CC-BY-3.0, which only requires attribution and expressly permits sharing, modification and commercial use. Is this consistent with your intentions?


Thanks. Its sorted now, Ive never "Thingied" before. smile
okelk
Awesome!
Thanks! applause

...hm...does anybody know what how strong a laser approximately needs to be to cut 7mm wood?
...I doubt that I can get through that with the 40w CO2-laser I have access to...
bcitral
Wow Nathan, super generous with near perfect timing.

B
Jarno
By the way, just read your explanation in the RTF, on using wooden rails.
I use wooden rails in my cases, but I am always afraid of directly screwing into the ends of the dowels, it splits horribly.

I use these angle plates to mount them (pointing backwards obviously):
nathanxl
Jarno wrote:

I use wooden rails in my cases, but I am always afraid of directly screwing into the ends of the dowels, it splits horribly.
I use these angle plates to mount them (pointing backwards obviously):


Great idea, cheers. Rockin' Banana!
Reality Checkpoint
People doing stuff like this makes me proud to be a wiggler.

we're not worthy
Joe.
Instructions unclear, all my modules stuck in birdhouse now.

Befacosynth
Mr Thompson: You are just great. THANKS A LOT!! nanners
nathanxl
okelk wrote:
..does anybody know what how strong a laser approximately needs to be to cut 7mm wood?..


I used a 150W C02 tube laser running at around 32mA to easily cut 7mm MDF and regular pine based ply.
Hardwood and marine ply wasnt possible.
Monobass
Yeah this is properly awesome! Guinness ftw!
gianni
Thank you so much we're not worthy
sendepause
Sweet baby jesus, this is awesome!!! Thanx very much!
nanners
Microscopial
Your the best. Have a great xmas sir
de_raaf
love to see a few more designs for big studio case, like 15u or 18u,
great job!
ninGiaBoom
Wow....i can't add more words to

"GREAT JOB"

i feel it's the right thing to say with proper loudness.

Many thanks for your great job could be a variation on theme. applause
meatbeatz
Nice! applause

Just a heads up, these look to be designed around Elby rails so beware they have different spacing between mounting holes to Vector, Schroff, Z-Rails etc.
SoundPool
exactly what I need!

can anyone who uses these maybe share what rails they use so we can all know what does/doesn't work with the existing designs other than Elby rails?
e.vil
Awesome dude!!
thank you so much! w00t
funkyjunky
meatbeatz wrote:
Nice! applause

Just a heads up, these look to be designed around Elby rails so beware they have different spacing between mounting holes to Vector, Schroff, Z-Rails etc.


this is stated in the readme files attached to most designs:
"Depending on what rails you use and what modules you have the rail holes spacing may or may not be correct."
funkyjunky
SoundPool wrote:
exactly what I need!

can anyone who uses these maybe share what rails they use so we can all know what does/doesn't work with the existing designs other than Elby rails?


I got gie tec rails from clicksclocks, the rail mounting holes dimensions for me are 123 mm. In Nathan's design the dimensions between mounting holes are 122.5. So looks like almost the same.
Quasi
What perfect timing! I just got certified on a huge Laser cutter. Can't thank you enough!!
skookum
Extremely generous, thank you!
tomhall
Great share Nathan, good onya!

What is the best sized bolt for the vector rails?

thanks Tom.
billsship
This is what makes these forums so great. Thank you!
Poldenstein
Wow.
This is very generous.
Thank you.
nathanxl
tomhall wrote:
What is the best sized bolt for the vector rails?.


M5 bolts 10-12mm long usually does the trick with most rails.
LukeSnarl
Great legacy Nathan. Many Aussie Wigglers have used these cases for an age, now the world can...
Waz
I love you.
windspirit
Andrew for Prez!
andrewF
windspirit wrote:
Andrew for Prez!


Thanks but these are nathanxl's designs and his idea to put them up for all to use.

Nathan & I work together a lot under the nonlinearcircuits banner, certainly would not be where it is today without his help, so thats why the thingiverse page is so titled.
pre55ure
Nathanxl, thank you tremendously for doing this. Incredibly generous and awesome of you!

And now... to mess it all up hihi
Can anyone do a quick little tutorial for how someone such as myself would get the file setup to be made at ponoko? I made an attempt last night to get a price for one and had a difficult time getting it formatted for building. So heres the sticking points I ran across.

The .DXF file wouldn't open in illustrator CS4 (maybe CS4 is too old?) it just opened as text, which was weird.
the .skp file opened in sketchup, but I couldn't figure out how to get the "flat packed" object to export without being shown with "perspective" if that makes sense.

I was able to export from sketchup as a .eps file and open in illustrator, but the dimensions were all wonky, (it was shown with some degree of perspective) and I had to try to scale it by some percentage and get it as close to what I think it should have been, which is probably inaccurate.

Does this sound normal, or do I just need to figure out an actual way to open the .dxf file?

I'm totally not complaining, this is super awesome I'm just trying to work through the process of actually making one!
nathanxl
Just checked.
Ponoko needs a blue line for a cut.

There is a free online .dxf to .eps converter tool.
Then change the line colour in any drawing application to blue.
Then upload to ponoko.

Post your results in thingiverse and here.
pre55ure
Sorry, should have been clearer, I'm good with the ponoko part. It's just making sure that what I upload there is a true representation of the designs you posted, that I'm having a hard time with.

nathanxl wrote:


There is a free online .dxf to .eps converter tool.


Ahh this looks like the piece I need.

I will give it a try and report back. thumbs up
funkyjunky
pre55ure wrote:

the .skp file opened in sketchup, but I couldn't figure out how to get the "flat packed" object to export without being shown with "perspective" if that makes sense.


In sketchup select "camera" in the menu and select "Parallel Projection"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_YDXihyy14
iirussell
Great stuff, thanks a ton.
Anechoic
Great - thank you!
Kieftenbelt
Great job for sharing this!
One check, tried it multiple times, but the DXF file on the "84HP_6U_Skiff_63mm.dxf" seems to be corrupted? I just don't get it open.

More people having this problem?

As well, you noticed 7mm plywood/plexiglass. Ponoko offers 6.4mm wide plywood. Will this be an issue?
bennelong.bicyclist
Just to note that all these designs are licensed under the Creative Commons BY-NC-ND license, which is summarised here: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/

You'll notice the No Derivatives clause: "If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you may not distribute the modified material."

That means that although you are free to modify the designs for personal use, you are not permitted to share those modified designs with anyone else. I notice that Nathan has suggested the people upload modified versions of his designs (modification includes just transforming the file to SVG, BTW) to ThingVerse. Well, under the license, you aren't actually allowed to do that.

This issue is easily solved by Nathan relicensing the designs without the No Derivatives clause i.e. just CC-BY-NC. Then you'll be able to share modified versions.
nathanxl
Thanks for the headsup about the cc liscencing.
Its amended now so remix to your hearts content.

Ill try to upload the 6U Skiff 63mm .dxf soon.

Cheers
nathanxl
Kieftenbelt wrote:

As well, you noticed 7mm plywood/plexiglass. Ponoko offers 6.4mm wide plywood. Will this be an issue?


Not an issue with structural integrity. You will have the wood fingers extending out .5 off a mm on each side of the join. Can be sanded back after gluing if you wish.
geecen
This is exactly what I've been looking for! Thanks so much for this. cool
starf
So great!
Thanks a ton, this will make a great home studio rack. love
d.lewis1190
This is amazing!

Polotu is charging $118 for the 6u with lid on 1/4 birch.

Anyone else find good quotes? I couldn't get ponoko to work at all.
bobbcorr
Can I ask for some help modifying these for 126HP rails in a 7U case?
Conjure
Couldn't get these to work on Ponoko. Would love to hear how people are getting these done. Would love to do this smile
Jarno
You need to change thickness, and colour, to comply with ponoko rules (assuming these are the same as with formulor.de)
windspirit
Hey quick question, sorry if this has been answered already. I see a case that has a "handle" for carrying briefcase style. Is this case strong enough to add "snap-together" type hardware for keeping it closed like on the elite modular and many other types of cases?

nathanxl
Some edits posted on OP.
Latches can be fitted with some modification, 7mm ply is strong.
Try and post back results.
yan6
really nice, i might go for a couple of the 9u studio cases

I wish there was something like this for my 19" rack gear and serge panels
Waz
Has anyone begun making one of these? I'd like to know where you got your wood cut?
le_palace
Bump for wanting to hear some success stories from here. This is fun!

Ponoko has been giving me serious pains for the last 24 hours. I'm just trying to add a cut-out in the back to incorporate a connector and switch for my Deopfer DIY. Using the 3 ply amber bamboo. I'm sure I can figure this out with some more time and patience... but before i drop ~$120...

anyone had any issues with the bamboo not being exact size? Meaning, need to sand to fit together... seems like there's a little bit of concern with using bamboo in that regard.
Altitude909
le_palace wrote:
Bump for wanting to hear some success stories from here. This is fun!

Ponoko has been giving me serious pains for the last 24 hours. I'm just trying to add a cut-out in the back to incorporate a connector and switch for my Deopfer DIY. Using the 3 ply amber bamboo. I'm sure I can figure this out with some more time and patience... but before i drop ~$120...

anyone had any issues with the bamboo not being exact size? Meaning, need to sand to fit together... seems like there's a little bit of concern with using bamboo in that regard.


1/4" is pretty thin for a case.. I use Pololu, they have WAY bigger beds and do 1/2" plywood
le_palace
Altitude909 wrote:


1/4" is pretty thin for a case.. I use Pololu, they have WAY bigger beds and do 1/2" plywood


I've just started poking around Pololu thumbs up

However, the OP says these are designed for 7mm sheet material. ¼" ≈ 6.4 mm. I really thought I was in the clear here since other cases seem to be going by this. hmmm.....
Altitude909
every case I see out of that stuff seems to flex in a bit and doesnt look square, I'm sure it's OK but I prefer some bomb proof, cabinet grade 1/2" birch plywood
le_palace
Altitude909 wrote:
every case I see out of that stuff seems to flex in a bit and doesnt look square, I'm sure it's OK but I prefer some bomb proof, cabinet grade 1/2" birch plywood


Ah I see. I think I'm going to risk the ¼" for my 6U. Shouldn't have too much weight and it'll never leave my apartment honestly... Drunk Banana
andrewF
Altitude909 wrote:
every case I see out of that stuff seems to flex in a bit and doesnt look square, I'm sure it's OK but I prefer some bomb proof, cabinet grade 1/2" birch plywood


As these are laser or CNC cut, so long as they are put together properly the cases will be square.
I have a 9U studio and 9U flat case both over a year old, they both get to travel at least once a month. Both are holding up well, I haven't noticed any flex.

The main point is, these designs are a budget option.
Of course, the best are Goike or Lamond cases but for many it is simply too expensive (and not DIY cool )
nathanxl
yan6 wrote:
really nice, i might go for a couple of the 9u studio cases

I wish there was something like this for my 19" rack gear and serge panels


The 13U is a case I made for my Driscoll(vintage Serge-esque, 4U) panels to be housed together with euro an 1U tiles. You could use it for regular Serge aswell...
Paul Aner
Well the website is mostly in Dutch - but you can do with some google translation, and they seem quite cheap, even if it is going to take 3 weeks to get the wood cut

Also, they have either 6 or 9mm MDF, or 10mm multiplex (plywood), so some tweaking is needed either on the source file you upload, or on the cut boards.. but still, I'm going to give them a try:

https://www.snijlab.nl

You need to register and you get instant quotation, the 3U case is less than EUR 50, and they deliver worldwide if I'm not wrong

I'll keep you posted!
le_palace
I got a quote back from Pololu on the 84HP 6U 93mm case - ¼" birch for $48. 3 day turn around. Only thing is their wood selection is limited.

I'm partial to the amber bamboo so I'm going to figure out Ponoko before I pull the trigger.
nathanxl
Sylvan used a 2' x 4' sheet of 1/4" ply ($7 from Lowes) for the 84HP 9U Studio case.
Looks fine with no overhang.
He sent the original(unmodified) .dxf file to http://www.virginialaser.net/
And they did the rest. Charge for cutting was US$87.

Pics and info on the thingiverse page of his make.
Conjure
$93 for the 84HP 9U Studio Case from Polulu. Seems like I could get that cheaper elsewhere, no?
Altitude909
le_palace wrote:
I got a quote back from Pololu on the 84HP 6U 93mm case - ¼" birch for $48. 3 day turn around. Only thing is their wood selection is limited.

I'm partial to the amber bamboo so I'm going to figure out Ponoko before I pull the trigger.


Keep in mind that the largest part ponoko can do is 31"x15" so it will add up quick if you need multiple sheets
le_palace
I agree that the cost will be more than Pololu. I might need to move around the layout to work with their sheet sizes - I don't know if they'll do that for me.. We'll see. At this point, I feel I've been on this long enough to see it through and share the Ponoko quote (and hopefully a working Ponoko file). Their design upload feature is making my New Year's resolution to quit smoking 1000x harder. very frustrating
ColossalOstrich
Are there any exact measurements on any of the files? I'd rather try and make one using some type of hardwood, since I don't have access to a laser cutter, but I do have access to the very well equipped woodshop in my school.

Might edit the design a tiny bit to combine the 3U acryllic and the 6U upright cases.
le_palace
ColossalOstrich wrote:
Are there any exact measurements on any of the files?


If you pop them open in sketchup then click the measuring tape tool on the left, you can measure each piece/edge/whatever. Don't even need to know how to use the program to do this.
le_palace
I finally got the 84HP 6U 93mm files to upload to Ponoko w00t

As expected, it's twice as expensive than Pololu since two sheets are required (Ponoko has smaller sheets). I'll attach the .eps files if anyone wants to give it a try themselves.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4gkcqdpsge8w47a/AAAsB3HmrkUo0qH5BviDjAToa?d l=0

84HP 6U 93mm Laser Cutting Breakdown:
Pololu - ¼" birch plywood (cut from 1 sheet) - $48
Ponoko - 6.7mm amber bamboo 3 ply (cut from 2 sheets) - $93

If I were making a 3U skiff, the bamboo would only require one sheet and would be similar in cost to the birch from Pololu. But I'm doing 6U and 2x the cost isn't justifiable IMO.

Since I like the darker color and contrast of grain in the amber bamboo over birch, I was wondering if the middle ground here would be to stain the birch plywood.. I work in software, not wood. I've done some research into staining but I'm wondering what people's thoughts on this are. Is this going to affect the spacing of the joints? Etc. I spent hours trying to get the Ponoko files working and it has exhausted me... Any guidance is much appreciated.
le_palace
went with the bamboo

kreiff
Has anybody tried this project with Tip-Top / Z Rails?

According to this thread (which is very informative!) the hole for the Z-Rail mounting screw is 0.5mm lower than the hole on Gie-Tec / Doepfer rails.

Can anyone confirm that the first screw in Elby Rails is the same depth as Gie-Tec / Doepfer rails? They are sadly not represented in Daverj's awesome diagram in the above linked thread.

The other difference I can see would be that the screw holes are probably a bit too big for M4 screws. This is a fairly easy change as I just have to change the hole diameter from 2.5mm to 2mm.

I'm also not sure whether that 0.5mm will really create any major issue? I'm guessing if I just change the hole diameter the rails will be just 0.5mm higher in the case than originally designed...which may or may not be annoying?

If anyone has tried this with Z-Rails - did you alter the mounting screw depth / size? If not, is the rail height / depth an issue?

If no one has tried it I think I might be the guinea pig and rework the hole depth and size for tip-top / z rails.
kreiff
After messing around in Illustrator for a little while I think I've been able to update the 9U studio case for Titp-Top / Z-Rails and M4 screws.

I'm waiting for the final pieces to be cut / shipped. For 1/4" Birch Plywood @ Venture Laser in Philadelphia it was $15 for the wood and $60 for labor / laser cutting. $75 all in.

I'll post results once I can confirm that everything fits together nicely and the Z-Rails work with the alterations I made. I'll also post my remix on Thingiverse as well if it turns out right. (I might also update the 6U and 9U flat cases as those seem like they might get some use if folks had updated versions for Z-Rails)
geecen
HI All. I'm looking into making the u9 studio case after I join the local maker space for cheapz lazerz hihi

I've been looking into an alternative to the expensive vector rails too. I've considered the wood option, which I think is a pretty good one if you don't swap around your modules much. I've also found these: https://www.esr.co.uk/electronics/products/frame_cases.htm



They're super cheap - £6 for a 2 metre piece - and fit square M6 nuts.

The only downside seems to be that they don't have the gubbins at the bottom which allow you to screw in from the side to fix them to the box. I was thinking it would be fine for the top and bottom as they could just be screwed into the front and top of the box. For the middle ones I was considering using a bracket similar to the one pictured above, bolting them together, then screwing to the side. Alternatively I could run a piece of wood to join the sides, then screw them to this. The problem would then be I might have to jiggle the dimensions to acccount for it and I don't want to mess it up! Any thoughts?

These people are in the North East of England (actually just around the corner from me by chance!), but they might deliver.
geecen
geecen wrote:
HI All. I'm looking into making the u9 studio case after I join the local maker space for cheapz lazerz hihi

I've been looking into an alternative to the expensive vector rails too. I've considered the wood option, which I think is a pretty good one if you don't swap around your modules much. I've also found these: https://www.esr.co.uk/electronics/products/frame_cases.htm



They're super cheap - £6 for a 2 metre piece - and fit square M6 nuts.

The only downside seems to be that they don't have the gubbins at the bottom which allow you to screw in from the side to fix them to the box. I was thinking it would be fine for the top and bottom as they could just be screwed into the front and top of the box. For the middle ones I was considering using a bracket similar to the one pictured above, bolting them together, then screwing to the side. Alternatively I could run a piece of wood to join the sides, then screw them to this. The problem would then be I might have to jiggle the dimensions to acccount for it and I don't want to mess it up! Any thoughts?

These people are in the North East of England (actually just around the corner from me by chance!), but they might deliver.


These might actually be the wrong size - I'll have to compare them to the dimensions of the vector ones when I get home.
Waz
Do you take commission for case designs? I'm looking for a 5 row (15u) x 104 hp case.
nigel
geecen wrote:
I've also found these: https://www.esr.co.uk/electronics/products/frame_cases.htm



They're super cheap - £6 for a 2 metre piece - and fit square M6 nuts.


Wrong size - they are the brackets for the sides of the case, to hold the enclosures, not the rails for the top and bottom, to hold the panels.
kreiff
I ended up doing a remix of Nathan's design that is compatible with TipTop Z-Rails and M4 screws (as opposed to his original designs meant for M5 screws and clicksclocks / Elby rails)

I uploaded my remixed design here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1494759

It's just for the 9U studio version and still set for 7mm ply. It's an Adobe Illustrator (CS4) file. I can try exporting it for older versions of Illustrator or as an EPS file if anyone needs another file type.

Really psyched with how it came out:


Ended up staining it "walnut" - fits the z-rails perfectly - totally flush with the edges of the case:


Be *really* careful with the glue if you intend to stain..or just stain all the pieces before you glue...or you'll have to do a ton of sanding for the ply to take on the stain well.
andrewF
Great job kreiff love
kreiff
Thnx, Andrew!
mwmw
Kreiff that's absolutely ace! Great work! I've been looking at these designs for the last few weeks and been thinking about modifying the 3U case for the TipTop Z-Rails myself (as it's my first foray into modular synths - thought I probably should start small!). I was also bizarrely planning on staining it walnut as well so it's great to see how it turned out.

I was wondering if you could provide a little more info on how you did this so I can modify the '84HP 3U 93mm' design. I've converted the .dxf into .eps so I can modify it in affinity designer (vector graphics AI alternative).. I've done a pretty dodgy work around by matching it up to your spec by eye but not sure that'll be good enough - so yeah if you could let me know how you were able to modify it to fit the Z-Rails and M4 screws that would be hugely appreciated.

Cheers!
kreiff
Hi mwmw!

Thanks!

For the screw holes I changed the diameter of the holes from 5mm to 4mm. You need to be very careful to maintain the center point of each hole. The holes in Nathan's original design are not actually circles. They look to be traced in by hand and at very high resolution are very jagged.

I used Adobe Illustrator and created a square around each screw hole in the original design. Illustrator will find the center point of any vector shape and I could use that center point as the basis for the new hole.

The mounting screw in Z-Rails are really only 0.5mm higher than the mounting screws in Elby rails. I really wanted the rails to be flush with the wood at the top - so I linked all of the screw holes horizontally and just moved them all uniformally back by 0.5mm.

I had mentioned before that I might edit and upload some of the other design files for Z-Rails - if you can wait until this weekend I can work on uploading an edited version of 84HP 3U 93mm design then. But by all means - take a stab at it if those measurements will help you edit it on your side!
mwmw
Hey krieff,

Amazing thanks so much for all of that. I've had a go and here's (I think..) the final edited 84HP 3U 93mm Z-Rails design:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/51243294/84HP%203U%2093mm%20Z-Rail s%20edit.eps

If you could take a little look and check if it's correct that would be super helpful and very much appreciated!

If it's all good - feel free to use it if you want to include it in a thingverse upload of Z-Rails edited designs smile
kreiff
Hey mwmw - glad you gave it a go!

I don't have Illustrator on my work PC - but I'll take a look when I get back home.

If it looks good I'll upload it as a new remix and give you credit. I think the 3U boat / Skiff will probably get more DLs than the 9U Studio - It's a great starter case or an alternative to the TipTop HEK given that it's less than $10 worth of ply.
kreiff
Hey mwmw - Sorry for the delayed reply!

When I imported your EPS to Illustrator it was showing it 25% bigger than the 93mm measurement - I've had issues converting EPS files to illustrator in the past though so that just may be a quirk between the software you're using and illustrator.

The other thing I noticed was that the horizontal position of the screw holes was off a bit. One side was correct, but the other was off by a couple millimeters.

Check out the version I've uploaded here - I've scaled it down so that the depth is now exactly 93mm and the spacing of the screws is even like the original design:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BzJBxS0r3W3MQVZkR1RySkpNWE0&us p=sharing

One is an illustrator file and one is an EPS file. Either of those should work for you.

I noticed that your screw holes were like 3.988mm as opposed for 4mm on the dot - but that shouldn't be an issue. Definitely within tolerance. And you got the depth of the screw holes dead on!

Definitely post your build once you get it all cut and glued!
mwmw
Hey Kreiff,

Thanks so much for your help!! It's very much appreciated smile.

I've finally had time to put all of this together (and build the modules to go in it.. planning on doing as much DIY as possible)

Here's my modest modular beginnings:



I'm super happy how it came out. I stained it dark oak and put a couple layers of dark oak varnish on it as well.

Thanks again for your input. It's been the most enjoyable and rewarding project I've done in ages... now to make some music! hyper
nathanxl
Some great work here, Im happy to see some use of these files.
Ive been pondering ways to make it even cheaper/easier for folks to get into this and have realised that the rails are possibly one of the most expensive things now...
Decades ago we used to just screw down into lengths of 10mm or 20mm wood glued to the inside of the case, really cheap but after a while the wood would get chewed up from changing modules around.
Ive developed a system that allows you to switch out the wood when its old.
My local hardware sells a length of 10mmx10mm pine for $2 which is enough for a 84hp 3Urack, this cant be beaten for value.
I will finalise the design, take pics and upload the files to the thingi page in a few days, will post back here to let you know.
Here is a picture of a 104hp 5U closing case I recently took on tour. The files for this is up on the thingi page now. Peace
kreiff
mwmw wrote:
Hey Kreiff,

Thanks so much for your help!! It's very much appreciated smile.

I've finally had time to put all of this together (and build the modules to go in it.. planning on doing as much DIY as possible)

Here's my modest modular beginnings:



I'm super happy how it came out. I stained it dark oak and put a couple layers of dark oak varnish on it as well.

Thanks again for your input. It's been the most enjoyable and rewarding project I've done in ages... now to make some music! hyper


Hey mwmw - Happy to help!

It came out really nice - The etching in the side looks sweet!
Karma
Hi guys!! Did you know equivalant for ponoko in EU?
synchromesh
There's RazorLAB in the UK, they're "powered by Ponoko". Dunno about the continent, though.
Digitek
Thanks Kreiff for the file
kreiff
Nice one Digitek! Came out great! nanners
Whelm
Can anyone clarify for me whether these (fantastically awesome) designs would work with Vector rails? From what I gather, Vector requires a spacing of 122.5mm, which I believe what we have here?

This is a fantastic contribution the the Eurorack community. I really love the open source ethic which is embraced by large elements of the scene.
nathanxl
Whelm wrote:
Can anyone clarify for me whether these (fantastically awesome) designs would work with Vector rails?e.


Thanks, Im glad people are getting use out of them.
A few pages back someone modified the design for vector rails.
It is my understanding there is about 1mm difference and the mounting screws are M4.
As the original designs cater for M5 screws I think it would be safe to say the original designs could be used with vector rails as there will be some leaway.
I dont have those rails so cant confirm but at the very least a file will take the 1mm of wood if needed or washers on the end mounting screws might be needed to secure them.
cereyanlimusiki
formulor.de

Karma wrote:
Hi guys!! Did you know equivalant for ponoko in EU?
Whelm
nathanxl wrote:

Thanks, Im glad people are getting use out of them.
A few pages back someone modified the design for vector rails.
It is my understanding there is about 1mm difference and the mounting screws are M4.
As the original designs cater for M5 screws I think it would be safe to say the original designs could be used with vector rails as there will be some leaway.
I dont have those rails so cant confirm but at the very least a file will take the 1mm of wood if needed or washers on the end mounting screws might be needed to secure them.

Awesome, thanks for the input.

Just FYI, according to this site, vector rails use M5s: https://synthracks.com/eurorack-rails

And according to Synthrotek (who I'm gonna buy them from probably), they use "10-24 x 1" mounting screws, which as far as I can tell is equivalent to M5.

(Also I wasn't able to find anyone talking about modifying for vector rails in the thread, just z-rails. Maybe I missed it though).

I'm waiting to hear back about membership with a local hackerspace. Hopefully I'll have a chance to test it out with vector rails over the next couple weeks, and I'll report back!
kreiff
Whelm wrote:
(Also I wasn't able to find anyone talking about modifying for vector rails in the thread, just z-rails. Maybe I missed it though).


Hi Whelm - I did modify the original design for the 9U studio case to work with Z-Rails. I found this rail comparison from Daverj to be the most helpful in working out the spacing:


It did end up that Elby Rails and Gie-Tec / Doepfer Rails have the same screw depth. So if you use Daverj's diagram and adjust the screw holes back by whatever the difference is in the diagram the rails should be flush. It appears to be about 1mm, could be slightly more.

Hope that helps!
Cedworth
This is the 6u studio case with a 3u 93mm on top. I plan to sort of make a modular case system out of this being able to swap out rows easily. This is the Ponoko MDF white finish, I think it looks pretty sharp with the black laserburned edges.
I know the rails aren't in right, they are just there to help hold everything in place during gluing.
floris
This is exciting!

Anyone done this for Serge style panels?
(other then nathanjohnthompson, I've emailed him)

I love the "Eurorack Lasercut Case 104HP 13U Skiff 83mm" case
as you can use it both flat or standing!

But when standing, would the case fall over if for example one quickly unplugs a banana cable on the top panel?
wallyp
floris wrote:

Anyone done this for Serge style panels?


I'd like to build one! PM me...
TitoCas
Hi nathanxl, very happy to see that there are so many free to use euro-cases designs! I'm going to learn how to use sketchup, and probably will use one of those. Thank you!

Thanks so much also for the Creative Commons License Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0) you decided to use, hope that everybody will take it into account !

ciao!
dooj88
in an effort to keep my mistakes to a minimum, i was hoping to use the 3u rails/brackets from click and clocks.

specifically 4 of these for a 12U case. so before i get to planning and measuing, i was hoping if someone might know if these would somehow be incompatible with these designs.
TitoCas
I did an 84HP 1 row , with those designs , and with click&clocks rail wink
dooj88
TitoCas wrote:
I did an 84HP 1 row , with those designs , and with click&clocks rail wink


thanks for the response, @titocas. even if these cases do somehow end up not working out, i'm secretly looking forward to trying my hand at a bandsaw (not literally) woodworking and cutting something slick like a goike case
indigoid
Tip for people making boxes like these: use a 4-corner tape clamp to hold it all square while the glue sets. Having the rails mounted in the case would be a good idea also :-)

https://www.fine-tools.com/rahm.html

You can never have too many clamps (or VCAs) :-)
22tape
Amount of tools owned: 0
Woodworking skills: 0
Apartment square footage: 170
Sausage Fingers: 100
The need to have a nice friendy friend build me one of these: 100
indigoid
22tape wrote:
Amount of tools owned: 0
Woodworking skills: 0
Apartment square footage: 170
Sausage Fingers: 100
The need to have a nice friendy friend build me one of these: 100


Really you really really don't need to be a carpenter at all to build one.

0. (optional) modify design files to include mounting holes for your choice of power supply

1. order lasercut bamboo from Ponoko or similar (make sure the thickness matches what the files are designed for)

2. get a band clamp (or maybe more than one, depending on the type of case you're trying to build) as I linked above

3. try a dry assembly of the pieces (with rails) to see if it is going to work or not

4. apply PVA or similar wood glue along all the tabbed mating surfaces

5. assemble the box

6. install rails. Take your time and make sure everything's nice and straight/square

7. use a cloth to wipe away all the excess glue that got squished out of the joints

8. apply band clamp(s). More glue will be squished out. Wipe it away too

9. wait a day or so for the glue to set properly

10. (optional) cleanup joints, sand it, paint it

11. install power supply and modules

12. wiggle!
22tape
indigoid wrote:
22tape wrote:
Amount of tools owned: 0
Woodworking skills: 0
Apartment square footage: 170
Sausage Fingers: 100
The need to have a nice friendy friend build me one of these: 100


Really you really really don't need to be a carpenter at all to build one.

0. (optional) modify design files to include mounting holes for your choice of power supply

1. order lasercut bamboo from Ponoko or similar (make sure the thickness matches what the files are designed for)

2. get a band clamp (or maybe more than one, depending on the type of case you're trying to build) as I linked above

3. try a dry assembly of the pieces (with rails) to see if it is going to work or not

4. apply PVA or similar wood glue along all the tabbed mating surfaces

5. assemble the box

6. install rails. Take your time and make sure everything's nice and straight/square

7. use a cloth to wipe away all the excess glue that got squished out of the joints

8. apply band clamp(s). More glue will be squished out. Wipe it away too

9. wait a day or so for the glue to set properly

10. (optional) cleanup joints, sand it, paint it

11. install power supply and modules

12. wiggle!


But my fingers are literally made of sausages!

Really though, thanks for that. You're right, I could build it myself. My issue at this point, besides the lack of hours in a day, is that I have a specific design that I'd like to have made. I opened one of Nathan's existing designs (in SketchUp) which is very similar to the design that I'd like-- 8u 54hp:

https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/454538

But once in SketchUp, I'm completely overwhelmed. I can't even figure out how to use the push/pull tool. Dead Banana

BTW, THANK YOU Nathan for making these available! we're not worthy
windspirit
FYI I am planning on modifying the 7 row studio case to be 104 HP just to satisfy my disgusting habit and to learn a bit about sketchup. Ill share the files here once they are finished.
22tape
I love this one, nathanxl! So I have a friend who is a whiz at AutoCad and he's going to help me adjust the design to fit my needs. Question though about this design-- what are those 4 little squares in the file? I'd like to have a cover as well... is the design for that laying around? Guinness ftw!



nathanxl wrote:

Red's Garden
Hey all, so do you think it's possible to expand the dimensions on the 6u acrylic cases - to 106HP for example? Thread resurrection. wink
stylesforfree
Also I need a 9U 104 HP case, does anyone have dimensions for this?
22tape
Getting ready to order vector rails. I'll be mounting them directly to the case. I just wanted to confirm how much distance there should be between the mounting slots for the vector rails?

Also, does anyone know the depth of vector rails?

Thanks!
22tape
"Ive developed a system that allows you to switch out the wood when its old.
My local hardware sells a length of 10mmx10mm pine for $2 which is enough for a 84hp 3Urack, this cant be beaten for value.
I will finalise the design, take pics and upload the files to the thingi page in a few days, will post back here to let you know."

Before I buy more rails, I was wondering if this was still in the works? Thanks!
moonthrills
Anymore success stories/pictures with these?

I'm new to modular synth and would love to build me one of these cases, so I can save some money towards more modules.

I'm wanting to do the 84HP 6U 80mm Skiff and Lid but there seems to be a lot issues in this thread as far as using the .dxf file, which rails to order, best place to order hinges, handles, etc.

Thanks!
andrewF
I have seen 100+ of these made at our monthly synth DIY nights, most of the regulars now have 2-3 of them. No problems, nobody has come back with any issues.
zarar
Here's my version! Thanks for the schematics: https://redd.it/7pz9lc
toneburst
Hi guys,

thanks very much for sharing these great designs, @nathanxl.

I'm interested in having one of the 84HP 21U Studio Cases
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207319
made.

Unfortunately, 7mm ply appears to be unobtainium here in the UK. It seems only 6mm and 9mm are available.

Would I be right in thinking that 6mm ply would be too flimsy for a case of this size?

I'm imagining that 9mm might be prohibitively heavy.

Anyone any experience with either thickness of ply, and that particular case design?


Also, if I'm going to use an internal transformer, will I need to add ventilation slots, as well as a cutout for the IEC socket?

a|x
toneburst
Another probably stupid question (pardon my ignorance), but is it possible to make the edits necessary to use a different thickness of plywood in Sketchup?

Also, is its possible to export a DXF file for cutting from Sketchup?

a|x
toneburst
I've managed to open the .dxf in Illustrator, and think I've edited it to work with 6mm ply.

Still not sure if 6mm would be strong enough, though. If someone could advise on this, I'd be really grateful.

a|x
euromorcego
toneburst wrote:

Still not sure if 6mm would be strong enough, though. If someone could advise on this, I'd be really grateful.

never tried 21hp but i made a desktop case using 5mm MDF. And it is certainly strong enough. It just needs to hold the rails in place. If anything I would be worried about the back plane and possibly the top. That might be a bit wobbly. You can always re-invorce the structure by using some additional wooden profiles on the inside (glue some solid wood profiles inside the case where the edges are).

And if you are really unsure, you can try a smaller case first (recommended anyway).

Here is an old (not very good) pic of the 5mm case.
toneburst
@euromorcego thanks for getting back to me! That's reassuring, and that case looks great!

I know going for the biggest case seems like throwing myself in at the deep end somewhat, but it's one of the simpler designs, in some ways.

Also, I have quite a lot of modules to fit in, so one of the smaller ones isn't going to solve my space problem, sadly.

Having said that, I was already considering one of the smaller ones, with a lid, in addition to the big one, as a portable setup for a select few module.

Do you happen to have any advice re. power-supplies, incidentally? I was thinking of going for an internal transformer for this big case, but I'm not sure which of the many possible solutions to go for.


a|x
toneburst
Probably going to go for a Meanwell PSU.

a|x
euromorcego
did not respond yet:
toneburst wrote:

Do you happen to have any advice re. power-supplies, incidentally? I was thinking of going for an internal transformer for this big case, but I'm not sure which of the many possible solutions to go for.

not really. I have a number of smaller power supplies with 15V dc bricks, but i am not particularly audiophile (more atari punk console into wasp filter), so they all seem fine to me.

I don't think power solutions with external DC brick are useful for a large system, though. You'd need several of those bricks.

For the main case, I use a doepfer power supply (old version) and never had any problem with it. Doepfer is probably still one of the most widely used power supplies, so when there is not much talk about problems I would assume that it is fairly reliable. If I was doing a larger case, doepfer would probably be my first choice for power (as a trade-off between price and quality ... ). But i never had a larger case.
toneburst
@euromorcego I see.

I'm going to go for a Meanwell RT-65B, as I've heard good things about them, and they seem relatively cheap.

I'm wondering if I need to have some kind of vent holes cut in the case back or bottom to help keep it cool. It doesn't look like the PSU has a fan builtin, though, so maybe it wouldn't help.

a|x
Altitude909
toneburst wrote:
@euromorcego I see.

I'm going to go for a Meanwell RT-65B, as I've heard good things about them, and they seem relatively cheap.

I'm wondering if I need to have some kind of vent holes cut in the case back or bottom to help keep it cool. It doesn't look like the PSU has a fan builtin, though, so maybe it wouldn't help.

a|x


Make sure you have at least 300 mA load on the 5V rail, it wont work right otherwise
toneburst
@Altitude909 oh, I hadn’t heard that. What happens if you don’t?
Would I need to put an artificial load on the 5v channel, if I don’t have any modules that use it?

a|x
Alume
Has anyone been able to open the files in Illustrator?

Cant seem to get it right.
Urubu
Hey, I’m searching for the design plans of a 6U 104hp suitcase.
But i can’t find any files with those dimensions...

Did any of you made a 6U 104hp suitcase out of this files and if yes would you mind sending me the modified files by private mensage please?

I’m out of my depth here and I’m pretty sure that I will fuck it up at some point, if I use my own measurements to try to modify the file.
Altitude909
toneburst wrote:
@Altitude909 oh, I hadn’t heard that. What happens if you don’t?
Would I need to put an artificial load on the 5v channel, if I don’t have any modules that use it?

a|x


It will bleed noise into the other rails. I use Leds to load it down, I made a simple board with a passthrough power header and 6LEDs
toneburst
Good to know!

a|x
strewya
toneburst wrote:
Hi guys,

thanks very much for sharing these great designs, @nathanxl.

I'm interested in having one of the 84HP 21U Studio Cases
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1207319
made.

Unfortunately, 7mm ply appears to be unobtainium here in the UK. It seems only 6mm and 9mm are available.

Would I be right in thinking that 6mm ply would be too flimsy for a case of this size?

I'm imagining that 9mm might be prohibitively heavy.

Anyone any experience with either thickness of ply, and that particular case design?


Also, if I'm going to use an internal transformer, will I need to add ventilation slots, as well as a cutout for the IEC socket?

a|x


Hello there,

I can only find 6mm birch ply too! What did you go for in the end? Do you know if the files need to be modified for 6mm ply?

thanks
toneburst
I think 7mm ply is unobtainium in the UK.

I didn’t get my case (one of the large 6-row studio cases) made, in the end, though I did manage to edit the file to work with 6mm ply.

I do t have the files to hand at the moment, but can try and did them out later, if that will help.

a|x
eb0687
toneburst wrote:
I think 7mm ply is unobtainium in the UK.

I didn’t get my case (one of the large 6-row studio cases) made, in the end, though I did manage to edit the file to work with 6mm ply.

I do t have the files to hand at the moment, but can try and did them out later, if that will help.

a|x


What would be the issue of using the files with 6mm plywood?
Is it a matter of structural strength?
or is it a matter of compatibility issues with the laser cutter?
strewya
toneburst wrote:
I think 7mm ply is unobtainium in the UK.

I didn’t get my case (one of the large 6-row studio cases) made, in the end, though I did manage to edit the file to work with 6mm ply.

I do t have the files to hand at the moment, but can try and did them out later, if that will help.

a|x


I was looking to get get smaller 6u with a lid but i wouldn't mind having a look at the modified file if you could share.

I don't understand why 6mm is only available ply? Strange...

Many thanks
strewya
eb0687 wrote:
toneburst wrote:
I think 7mm ply is unobtainium in the UK.

I didn’t get my case (one of the large 6-row studio cases) made, in the end, though I did manage to edit the file to work with 6mm ply.

I do t have the files to hand at the moment, but can try and did them out later, if that will help.

a|x


What would be the issue of using the files with 6mm plywood?
Is it a matter of structural strength?
or is it a matter of compatibility issues with the laser cutter?


I think its more of a compatibility issue. It seems 1/4inch (6.4mm) is fine though but not available in the U.K or I am looking in wrong places.
cereyanlimusiki
Did somebody make 9U 104HP version of this ? If yes, please be so kind and share it
makhho
Did anyone have luck opening these .dxf files in illustrator properly? I can't seem to get the conversion to scale properly going from .dxf to .ai.
kinrat
strewya wrote:
eb0687 wrote:
toneburst wrote:
I think 7mm ply is unobtainium in the UK.

I didn’t get my case (one of the large 6-row studio cases) made, in the end, though I did manage to edit the file to work with 6mm ply.

I do t have the files to hand at the moment, but can try and did them out later, if that will help.

a|x


What would be the issue of using the files with 6mm plywood?
Is it a matter of structural strength?
or is it a matter of compatibility issues with the laser cutter?


I think its more of a compatibility issue. It seems 1/4inch (6.4mm) is fine though but not available in the U.K or I am looking in wrong places.



I sent the files to a local laser shop (GS UK Ltd) and they used 6mm plywood. They fit together no problem. Obviously there is a 1mm excess on the joints, but I can live with that.
organon
kinrat wrote:
I sent the files to a local laser shop (GS UK Ltd) and they used 6mm plywood. They fit together no problem. Obviously there is a 1mm excess on the joints, but I can live with that.


Good to know. Does it also feel structurally solid with 6mm?

7mm plywood seems to be a very odd choice. Even big specialised online plywood retailers here in Germany skip 7mm and only carry 6 or 8mm or basically every other thickness but 7mm. I guess I’ll go for 8mm because more is always better?? cool

Or I might try reworking the files for 8mm cut outs? I'm a noob with CAD software tho, so I guess I'd have to sit down for a day or two to figure things out. Not sure if it's worth the effort.
toneburst
organon wrote:
Or I might try reworking the files for 8mm cut outs? I'm a noob with CAD software tho, so I guess I'd have to sit down for a day or two to figure things out. Not sure if it's worth the effort.


You don't need CAD software to edit the designs. You can also do it in Illustrator, if you're more comfortable with that application.

To redesign for different thicknesses, you just need to alter the height of the "fingers" sticking out from the panel edges. Change the top of the fingers, rather than the base, to maintain the internal dimensions of the case.

I agree about 7mm ply. It seems 100% unobtainium here in the UK. I guess that's not the case in Australia.

a|x
kinrat
organon wrote:
kinrat wrote:
I sent the files to a local laser shop (GS UK Ltd) and they used 6mm plywood. They fit together no problem. Obviously there is a 1mm excess on the joints, but I can live with that.


Good to know. Does it also feel structurally solid with 6mm?



Yes, very solid. I even made one with 2mm cardboard! Solid enough but it kept falling over whenever I was patching...
makhho
Any chance of someone having .ai files for these cases? I am having trouble converting from .dxf to .ai with the correct scaling accounted for.
Mochi_Stryper
nathanxl wrote:


This case is excellent, but I can't figure out what the rectangular holes in the sides are meant for. I can't seem to find any modules that fit it.
valsolo
Just found Nathans designs. Wonderful stuff. Will try to order a 9U 84hp either box size or studio. As I'm a total newbie on sketchup/illustrator etc I'm just looking for a "ready" file that I can send to the cutter with panel size that they will accept. Preferably in Sweden/Nordic Countries.

Any suggestions on which file & which cutter?

Kudos to Nathan once again applause
S0210
Ah... Doepfer A-100 DIY kit#1 comes in a nice cardboard box. It's almost a 84HP 6U case. I whish it had pre-printed cut and drill signs....
Would be so obvious. sad banana
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