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nonlinearcircuits 2016 modules
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author nonlinearcircuits 2016 modules
andrewF
Quite a few new modules coming out this year, this is the 1st batch, figure they can go in this thread. PM or go to HERE - if you are keen to grab some PCBs & panels

1050 Mix sequencer - This module is inspired by the Arp 1050 mix sequencer. Although this version drops the VCO and push button functions. Using the switches, it is an 8 step sequencer, two 4 step sequencers, an 8 input mixer, 8 stage sequential switch, two 4 stage sequential switches and there is also a difference rectifier giving the +ve and -ve difference between stages 1-4 and 5-8.

1050mixSeq build & BOM






329 Phase/Flange - 10 stage Phaser/Flanger based on the Aries 329. It has 11 matched NPN pairs (BCM847) and a set of matched FETs. It is actually quite simple to match FETs, a circuit will be given in the build guide. Pretty much all surface mount, not suitable for beginners!

329Phaser build guide & BOM






giant B0N0 - Basically I mated a vactrol PiLL with the DelayNoMore, so it has a PLL chip, a delay chip & 2 vactrols. Pretty much does whatever it wants most of the time.

B0N0 build guide & BOM





FK1T VCF - This has a core based on the Korg FK-1 pedal, which is a similar VCF to the ones found in the 800dv, 770 and 700 synthesizers. These VCFs have low pass and high pass stages in series. The main difference is this version uses vactrols as the variable resistors and has a different CV sub-circuit and different Q path.
FK1T VCF build & BOM





Numberwang! - basically a 1-16 decoder with sync and async modes. Just feed it 4 signals and get all sorts of complex gate patterns from it. Runs at audio rates too so can be used as a sub-octave generator.
PCB - US$20
Panel - US$25






appliancide
Would you ever consider doing small runs of some of your designs with slightly elongated pcbs with added mounting holes for non-euro use? No biggie if not, as I will make them work for my 4U stuff either way. You are just killing it lately! New stuff is great!
atte
Wow new stuff looks cool, saw the bono demo, man it's legit w00t

Are the 1050 and the bono both SMD in the same league as bools?
andrewF
appliancide wrote:
Would you ever consider doing small runs of some of your designs with slightly elongated pcbs with added mounting holes for non-euro use? No biggie if not, as I will make them work for my 4U stuff either way. You are just killing it lately! New stuff is great!


Maybe, which ones are you interested in? You can drill out one or 2 of the mounting holes for the pots to 3mm and use theat for stand-offs, Of course choose ones with no tracks nearby. It is what I do.
Altitude909
courics knob. Too funny
andrewF
atte wrote:
Wow new stuff looks cool, saw the bono demo, man it's legit w00t

Are the 1050 and the bono both SMD in the same league as bools?


Thanks - building the 1050 would be like building 2 BOOLs, in terms of difficulty, at least most of the resistors are 100k.
All the smd on these is 0805 passives and SOIC semis
windspirit
I was just thinking about having a sequencer that behaves as a sequential switch so that one step can be replaced with another sequence and give it the illusion of a several bar progression. When does the brain custard come out?
andrewF
Brain custard should be here in 4-5 weeks
medbot
Hey Andrew, could you elaborate on a few things regarding the 1050? I'm not clear on if everything plugged into the inputs always comes out of the respective outputs or if they only pass when clocked to their step. Also, could you explain the ways the two switches combine and separate the columns of inputs? Are the inputs and outputs interchangeable when used as a switch (many switches can do 4>1 or 1>4, for example). When no inputs are plugged in, do the pots send voltages to the outputs for use like a traditional sequencer? Sorry for all the questions, but it seems like a pretty dense module. Thanks!
appliancide
andrewF wrote:
appliancide wrote:
Would you ever consider doing small runs of some of your designs with slightly elongated pcbs with added mounting holes for non-euro use? No biggie if not, as I will make them work for my 4U stuff either way. You are just killing it lately! New stuff is great!


Maybe, which ones are you interested in? You can drill out one or 2 of the mounting holes for the pots to 3mm and use theat for stand-offs, Of course choose ones with no tracks nearby. It is what I do.


I haven't run into problems with anything that I already have from you, so maybe it's a non-issue. I will hit you up if I decide to design a 4U panel that wouldn't work with the current designs. Otherwise, I will keep occasionally sending you money in exchange for awesomeness!
windspirit
appliancide wrote:
andrewF wrote:
appliancide wrote:
Would you ever consider doing small runs of some of your designs with slightly elongated pcbs with added mounting holes for non-euro use? No biggie if not, as I will make them work for my 4U stuff either way. You are just killing it lately! New stuff is great!


Maybe, which ones are you interested in? You can drill out one or 2 of the mounting holes for the pots to 3mm and use theat for stand-offs, Of course choose ones with no tracks nearby. It is what I do.


I haven't run into problems with anything that I already have from you, so maybe it's a non-issue. I will hit you up if I decide to design a 4U panel that wouldn't work with the current designs. Otherwise, I will keep occasionally sending you money in exchange for awesomeness!


Seems like you can use some un-used jack connections as mounting holes?
andrewF
medbot wrote:
Hey Andrew, could you elaborate on a few things regarding the 1050? I'm not clear on if everything plugged into the inputs always comes out of the respective outputs or if they only pass when clocked to their step. Also, could you explain the ways the two switches combine and separate the columns of inputs? Are the inputs and outputs interchangeable when used as a switch (many switches can do 4>1 or 1>4, for example). When no inputs are plugged in, do the pots send voltages to the outputs for use like a traditional sequencer? Sorry for all the questions, but it seems like a pretty dense module. Thanks!


When in mixer mode, upper switch, it just acts as a normal mixer and clock signals are ignored. Signals on inputs 1-4 can be found on outputs 1-4, 1-8 and also the two difference rectifier outputs (after being processed with signals on inputs 5-8). Signals on inputs 5-8 can be found on outputs 5-8 and 1-8.

When used as a sequencer, if no signals are on the 1-8 inputs, the pots set a voltage level, basically a normal sequencer. You can set it as two four step sequencers or a single 8 step sequencer. When using as two 4 step sequencers, the 1-8 output gives the sum of the voltages on, for example; pots 1 & 5, so you get a third pattern which is related to the other two.
If you plug a signal into any of the 1-8 inputs that signal will appear at the output instead of the voltage, the pot for that stage now becomes an attenuator.

The switches are unlabelled on the panel, but the LEDs show the mode:
all LEDs on = mixer
1 LED on (any) = 8 stage seq
2 LEDs on = two four stage sequencers

I have the most fun with this as a combined sequencer/sequential switch, putting an LFO or chaos signal on just one or two stages, the rest are set by the pots.
It is also great for switching audio, either at audio rates to create unusual waveforms or more slowly. I have not observed or heard any clicking when doing this. The chips used are designed for switching audio.

The schematic will be in the build guide but I have attached here if you want to have a look:
andrewF
appliancide wrote:
I will hit you up if I decide to design a 4U panel that wouldn't work with the current designs. Otherwise, I will keep occasionally sending you money in exchange for awesomeness!


Sounds like a good plan SlayerBadger!
maltemark
Goal for 2016: learn workable smd soldering. These look fantastic!
HipDestroyer
maltemark wrote:
Goal for 2016: learn workable smd soldering. These look fantastic!


I was thinking the same
oberkorn
deleted
billsship
For those of you who are hesitant about trying these projects because you are not used to SMD soldering, please try it!

I built a 4seq that was all SMD resistors and it was crazy easy and my first time. Buy some flux on your next parts order and it'll make everything much easier. I now prefer SMD resistors and caps over through-hole.

You have the power!!!

And watch this:
synthdude
By far the cheapest and easiest way to do SMD is by using an inexpensive heat gun. Check this vid,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OYakUQmgd0

If you plan on doing a lot of SMD projects upgrade to a reflow toaster oven. I built one of these and I can solder all smd onto a board in a few mins. Check this project out,

http://www.whizoo.com/index.php
ablearcher
dang!!! too many to keep up with. I'm still fine tuning my action panel... screaming goo yo

definitely going to pick up the fk1t and 1050 (as well as segue and a couple others) as soon I can reasonably hope to have some time to build them.

I've been wondering, is there any plan to re-release the jerk-offs (or circle jerk)? Do any of these new chaos modules replace it or should I just pick up the old stock? been eyeing those for what feels like forever now.

also: do not be afraid of the smd! magnifiers help but for large projects with many of the same components over and over I much prefer it. even with a normal iron you can just zap them on. zap zap zap. no cutting and bending makes things way quicker/easier.
PolarIceCaves
Wow Andrew these are beautiful! I hope I can learn to build these myself.
elcoco
Love your work Andrew, I've never built one of your modules but I definitely will be in the future. Looking forward to trying out the 1050 and the neuron/diff-rect.
spotta
Only a few spaces left in my DIY case, but room for each of these!
medbot
Thanks for the detailed explanation Andrew. I definitely need to make some room in the case for the 1050, it just does too much cool stuff.
Swann
Nice work Andrew, will order once my DIY reflow oven is fully tested! Have a link for the cutesy knobs on the FK1T?
c1t1zen


Giant Bono


Cool stuff Andrew
andrewF
synthdude wrote:


If you plan on doing a lot of SMD projects upgrade to a reflow toaster oven. I built one of these and I can solder all smd onto a board in a few mins. Check this project out,

http://www.whizoo.com/index.php


I built my reflow with the same kit; good value and works well.

I ususally get stencils for applying the solderpaste. The ones I get are stainless steel and expensive but there is a US based company that make stencils for $6, these guys -
https://www.oshstencils.com/index.php
I'm happy to supply stencil files if anybody wants them.
FetidEye
wow ! your new modules are awesome!

that B0n0 -- we're not worthy
andrewF
Swann wrote:
Nice work Andrew, will order once my DIY reflow oven is fully tested! Have a link for the cutesy knobs on the FK1T?


This is the manufacturers page - HERE, I bought them directly as I need them for my Matrix Mixers.
I suspect their minimum order is 500 or 1000 pieces.
andrewF
ablearcher wrote:

I've been wondering, is there any plan to re-release the jerk-offs (or circle jerk)? Do any of these new chaos modules replace it or should I just pick up the old stock? been eyeing those for what feels like forever now.


I still have jerkoff PCBs, but no panels.
The Brain Custard is a similar circuit. I intended it to run at audio rates but you could easily build one to run as a CV module, just need to change the resistors and caps. I will detail in the build guide. Should be available 1st week in March.

andrewF
Build guides for the 1050MixSeq and 329Phaser are up....Scroll to the bottom
HipDestroyer
Alright, so who's got the mouser carts for these badboys? MY ASS IS BLEEDING
ablearcher
andrewF wrote:
ablearcher wrote:

I've been wondering, is there any plan to re-release the jerk-offs (or circle jerk)? Do any of these new chaos modules replace it or should I just pick up the old stock? been eyeing those for what feels like forever now.


I still have jerkoff PCBs, but no panels.
The Brain Custard is a similar circuit. I intended it to run at audio rates but you could easily build one to run as a CV module, just need to change the resistors and caps. I will detail in the build guide. Should be available 1st week in March.


Ok, cool! The brain custard is what made me wonder if it's been replaced, but it doesn't seem to have as many ins and outs as 3 (9?) jerkoffs would have. Trying to understand your circuits sometimes teaches me things and sometimes makes my brain hurt.

Also, I was looking at the phaser, could you use the aux out and the phased out to create a mono to stereo effect?
andrewF
The brain Custard has all the X, Y & Z outputs summed, so one output is all three X outputs, another is all three Y outputs, etc.
The blend output allows you to add or invert the summed X, Y, Z outputs with each other. Custard output is just the whole shitty mess in one hit.

Maybe for the production run, I could add connection points so each output of each chaotic oscillator is available, to be wired to an expander panel....or maybe I should just blow the whole thing out and add an extra 9 outputs ...whynot Miley Cyrus
antf4rm
Great work man. Love my timbre!

Rock on. Rockin' Banana!
Swann
andrewF wrote:
Swann wrote:
Nice work Andrew, will order once my DIY reflow oven is fully tested! Have a link for the cutesy knobs on the FK1T?


This is the manufacturers page - HERE, I bought them directly as I need them for my Matrix Mixers.
I suspect their minimum order is 500 or 1000 pieces.


Thanks Andrew! BTW I'm trying out this Reflow kit http://www.x-toaster.com/ Test ran it a few times but modding my build as I put most of my control in the oven side (it was still warming up even with industrial insulation d'oh! ). Seems to control well so far.
thetwlo
i wonder if the Panasonic infrared toaster ovens might be well suited for this?
best oven EVER!!! BTW.

they go down to $80USD often on Amazon.
http://shop.panasonic.com/home-and-office/kitchen-appliances/toaster-o vens/NB-G110P.html
search64
That 1050 looks awesome, love the flexibility!
indigoid
ohhhh, I somehow didn't realise the 1-8 jacks on the 1050 seq were inputs. *facepalm*

Always thought step inputs on a sequencer (a la Doepfer A-155) were a brilliant idea, I'm glad someone else has finally done that in Euro!
Sandrine
Nice work Andrew, nice clean designs!
fuzzbass
As functional descriptions go:

" Pretty much does whatever it wants most of the time. "

... has to win some kind of prize. applause
ablearcher
andrewF wrote:
The brain Custard has all the X, Y & Z outputs summed, so one output is all three X outputs, another is all three Y outputs, etc.
The blend output allows you to add or invert the summed X, Y, Z outputs with each other. Custard output is just the whole shitty mess in one hit.

Maybe for the production run, I could add connection points so each output of each chaotic oscillator is available, to be wired to an expander panel....or maybe I should just blow the whole thing out and add an extra 9 outputs ...whynot Miley Cyrus


I'm voting for an extra 9 outputs! Dead Banana Miley Cyrus Dead Banana SlayerBadger!
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
That FkIt (?) is a very interesting sounding filter. Good job!
ear ear
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
That FkIt (?) is a very interesting sounding filter. Good job!


+1

Andrew, what is the patch you have going on in the FK1T video?
andrewF
Pretty sure it was mainly a 4seq driving the VCO and at times the FK1T CV inputs, also patched in a LFO and some slow chaos from the Sloths.

Glad you guys like it.
I have been getting classic squirty acid sounds from it MY ASS IS BLEEDING
ear ear
Andrew, see that Giant B0N0 -- is that actually a delay, as such? How are you using it / how do you envisage it being used?
andrewF
ear ear wrote:
Andrew, see that Giant B0N0 -- is that actually a delay, as such? How are you using it / how do you envisage it being used?


Unpredictable noise, trigger & CV generator.

The delay chip is in the feedback loop that controls the PLL, this makes a real mess of things and causes all sorts of strange behaviour.
You do not have to feed it audio signals to get it started, gates or triggers can be very interesting too.
The outputs: mix, PLL, saw and PC1 are audio rate. PC2 can be bursts of triggers and CV is a CV!

If you turn the PLL>delay pot to zero, and the Mix pot to channel the delay only signal. Then you can use it as a regular VC controlled delay.....it was never my intention, but the feature is there.
The Big Ear
maybe I missed it somewhere, but what brand of vactrols are used on the F*ckIt?
Awesome sounding filter!
Cheers,
andrewF
The Big Ear wrote:
maybe I missed it somewhere, but what brand of vactrols are used on


I have built 3, two with DIY vactrols, one with matched LDRs and the other with unmatched LDRs.
The third has Silonex NSL-32.

They all sounded good, though some differences. I think any single vactrol will work but opt for a quicker one rather than slower and lower off resistance may be good too.
andrewF
Build guide for the giant B0N0 is now uploaded - HERE (yes - it includes a schematic razz )

should have the FK1T up soon
MatrixModulator
I just created a post dedicated for 329 phase flange here:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=155485
flts
seems like there are 329 phase/flange + 1050mixseq + fk1t + timbre looming in my future... lucky i'll have some company while putting those together smile
MatrixModulator
Just posting here some info for everyone.

From Andrew
Quote:
LEDs - its hard for me to say
I buy batches of 100-500, all different types (there are usually over 5000 LEDs in my shed) then test & choose the ones that work best in a given circuit.
For the 1050 - they need to shine nicely with a 10k resistor, most superbrights will be fine.


Thanks again for your help Andrew! This is fun!
MatrixModulator
Deleted, sorry
andrewF
FK1T VCF build & BOM is up
nigel
Andrew,
a couple of questions about the giant B0N0. One of the vactrol drivers has a 470k resistor to V+ on the base, the other doesn't. I guessing that the adjustment pot pretty much swamps this anyway, so it's not necessary? The other thing I'll find out soon enough, but I'll ask anyway: the input jack is the only thing feeding the PLL signal in, but your demo had it playing with itself - was there an output signal feeding the input jack? (Does it matter? Do some work better than others?) Or is the VCO control signal from the delay enough to set it off?
andrewF
The 470k is to keep the vactrol turned on, it is not necessary and some may even prefer to leave it off.....I like having it tho cool

The input signal goes to the delay sub-circuit and the phase comparator input of the PLL, where it is matched up with the output of the PLL's VCO. At some pot settings this module just carries on without any input, at others, nothing happens unless you have an input signal driving it.

It is fun just to send it a gate signal every now and then and let it spin that around for a while until the next one sends it off on another tangent.
malnatim
andrewF wrote:
FK1T VCF build & BOM is up


thank you!

i'm really looking forward to this. 700s is my fav ever mono synth. i've only done a little smt but found it pretty quick and easy. i'm just ordering bom. i've not used smt caps in audio path before. can anyone please recommend what to use here? i noticed on the 329 bom andrewF says "get good ones" re. the 22nf. which are the good ones? at mouser they seem to be mostly ceramic rather than poly. is there no issue with ceramic caps potentially being microphonic? just go for ceramic C0G?

i'd really apprecaite some advice here.

btw bom specs 4 10uF electro, i think you only need 2. no big deal, but i though i'd mention.
andrewF
I just use MCC or MLCC (same thing) caps, just look for ones with 5% or 10% tolerance, unlike ones that have -20%/+80% tolerance.........then again really shitty caps may work great, so feel free to experiment. One nice thing about smd is that it is very easy to remove passive components, just heat them right up and flick them away, never to be seen again.

There are 4 10uF electros, two are for decoupling and not shown in the schematic.
malnatim
thank you!
andrewF wrote:
One nice thing about smd is that it is very easy to remove passive components, just heat them right up and flick them away, never to be seen again.

i imagine it's also cool that you can swap-out components on a built module, without having to get to the other side of the pcb. handy for the few resistors that need tweaking here.
MatrixModulator
I already finished my tripple sloth and neuron +rectifier custom designs for aluminium panels. MY ASS IS BLEEDING

I was wondering where are all the other template files for NLC modules. hmmm.....

Can someone point me where they are? I don't see them on NLC website.

Thanks hihi
flts
I asked for the drilling templates for the PCBs I had ordered, and was promised that they'd be online in a bit smile So coming I guess...
andrewF
MatrixModulator wrote:
I already finished my tripple sloth and neuron +rectifier custom designs for aluminium panels. MY ASS IS BLEEDING

I was wondering where are all the other template files for NLC modules. hmmm.....

Can someone point me where they are? I don't see them on NLC website.

Thanks hihi


Put them in this thread - NLC panel templates
m0d01
Gotta hand it to you, man. Your panels are some of the best looking ones around, diy or not. Excellent work. Looking forward to completing a couple of these this year as I solidify my smt chops.

Well done!
flab
Andrew ,would you like to share few words about the numberwang!
MatrixModulator
flab wrote:
Andrew ,would you like to share few words about the numberwang!


Would like some too hihi
appliancide
The Null-A looks quite fun as well! Is that a one-off, or will some be available for sale?
andrewF
appliancide wrote:
The Null-A looks quite fun as well! Is that a one-off, or will some be available for sale?

The first batch have panels designed to fit these cases, which are slightly smaller than eurorack.
After that I will convert the panels to suit eurorack and get a few more in.

These are a custom design for a local university, they wanted a sequencer, 1 vco, 1 vcf and 1 vca.....it just seemed too boring so I tarted it up a bit.
andrewF
flab wrote:
Andrew ,would you like to share few words about the numberwang!


It is quite simple, but the results are very useful. It converts 4bit binary numbers to 1-16.
Stick whatever you want onto the inputs (crossing 1V) and create gate patterns from the 16 outputs (or 8 outputs if using 3 input signals, or 4 outputs if using 2 inputs).
If nothing is plugged into the sync input, the output will change whenever one of the inputs change. If using sync, the outputs only change when sync is high.

You end up with 16 different, but related, gate patterns to control timing all over your patch.
Eloc
andrewF wrote:
It is quite simple, but the results are very useful. It converts 4bit binary numbers to 1-16.
Stick whatever you want onto the inputs (crossing 1V) and create gate patterns from the 16 outputs (or 8 outputs if using 3 input signals, or 4 outputs if using 2 inputs).
If nothing is plugged into the sync input, the output will change whenever one of the inputs change. If using sync, the outputs only change when sync is high.

You end up with 16 different, but related, gate patterns to control timing all over your patch.


That's Numberwang!

(what do I win?)
atte
Numberwang sounds cool. can't find it on your site, though.

General question: are all your SMD designs as easy as the bools, or are there some that needs a deeper breath?
billsship
I decided I need a little bit of randomness and uncertainty in my setup so I ordered a Sauce of Unce and Giant B0n0! Can't wait to build them!
andrewF
atte wrote:
Numberwang sounds cool. can't find it on your site, though.

General question: are all your SMD designs as easy as the bools, or are there some that needs a deeper breath?

It is not available yet, should be here in 2-3 weeks

Most of the NLC smd these days is 0805 and SOIC ICs, nothing smaller. If you could do the BOOLs you should be okay with the other stuff. Magnifier and tweezers are good to have tho
MatrixModulator
andrewF wrote:
flab wrote:
Andrew ,would you like to share few words about the numberwang!


It is quite simple, but the results are very useful. It converts 4bit binary numbers to 1-16.
Stick whatever you want onto the inputs (crossing 1V) and create gate patterns from the 16 outputs (or 8 outputs if using 3 input signals, or 4 outputs if using 2 inputs).
If nothing is plugged into the sync input, the output will change whenever one of the inputs change. If using sync, the outputs only change when sync is high.

You end up with 16 different, but related, gate patterns to control timing all over your patch.


I'm in for this one too!
Repeater
andrewF wrote:
0805


That's Numberwang!!!
Eloc
I've just built the FK1T and 1050mixseq from this latest batch of modules (also got DP filter, and timbre), all worked beautifully first power up. Really having fun with them. Just waiting on my procrastination in matching transistors to build the 329phase/flange...
andrewF
Repeater wrote:
andrewF wrote:
0805


That's Numberwang!!!


hihi I should have slipped some synth DIY related numbers in there, never mind, at least I got shinty-six

euromorcego
the numberwang looks brilliant! I assume the pcbs are done already ... otherwise I would suggest to add a header for the Turing machine expanders (mostly Vactrol Mix but also Voltages).

I was just trying to put something like this together myself to provide input for the Vactrol Mix, but this looks a lot better (if it does what i think it does).
basicbasic
Will there be a 'Wangernumb' module? Don't mention the event - we must never mention the event...
MellowEarache
the Numberwang totally what I've been looking for!

Are all the new panels going to be the white gold faceplates?
It's gonna really class up my rack.
thelizard
As a heads up to US folks, Modular Addict now has almost the complete line of NLC PCBs in stock, along with a lot of panels:

http://modularaddict.com/manufacturer/nonlinear-circuits
andrewF
basicbasic wrote:
Will there be a 'Wangernumb' module? Don't mention the event - we must never mention the event...


yes, it exists

geecen
The Squid Axon looks immense! Love an ASR, and this one has added weird shit.

@Andrew: I was wondering what the feedback does exactly? ARSs are like sample and holds, with each clock sampling, then passing the stored value to the next output right? So does the feedback effect the clock trigger? (I guess not) or the stored values? Or something else? Thanks.

Also, sorry to hear about Bill. Nice to see him commemorated on the wangernumb. He looked like a lovely chap.
andrewF
geecen wrote:
The Squid Axon looks immense! Love an ASR, and this one has added weird shit.

@Andrew: I was wondering what the feedback does exactly? ARSs are like sample and holds, with each clock sampling, then passing the stored value to the next output right? So does the feedback effect the clock trigger? (I guess not) or the stored values? Or something else? Thanks.


Yes, an ASR is basically a set of S&Hs in series with some way to sequentially clock the voltages thru. This page gives a good summary of ASRs in modular synths. The concept was around in the 60s and maybe earlier, like many modules, the roots go back to analogue computing. BBD delay ICs are based on the same idea.
From stage 4, there are two feeback paths. One simply goes into the switch of the input3 socket (so is switched out if you put a signal into input3) and then via a pot. The NL one is also via a pot but is then clipped by two diodes and hits a -4 gain stage before getting mixed with the other inputs and back into the chain.

geecen wrote:

Also, sorry to hear about Bill. Nice to see him commemorated on the wangernumb. He looked like a lovely chap.

Thanks, Bill was by my side or at my feet pretty much all day everyday. I know it is a loss every pet owner has to endure but I would have preferred he lived a bit longer than a year and a half, it was just too short a life for such a sweet dog.

geecen
andrewF wrote:
geecen wrote:
The Squid Axon looks immense! Love an ASR, and this one has added weird shit.

@Andrew: I was wondering what the feedback does exactly? ARSs are like sample and holds, with each clock sampling, then passing the stored value to the next output right? So does the feedback effect the clock trigger? (I guess not) or the stored values? Or something else? Thanks.


Yes, an ASR is basically a set of S&Hs in series with some way to sequentially clock the voltages thru. This page gives a good summary of ASRs in modular synths. The concept was around in the 60s and maybe earlier, like many modules, the roots go back to analogue computing. BBD delay ICs are based on the same idea.
From stage 4, there are two feeback paths. One simply goes into the switch of the input3 socket (so is switched out if you put a signal into input3) and then via a pot. The NL one is also via a pot but is then clipped by two diodes and hits a -4 gain stage before getting mixed with the other inputs and back into the chain.

geecen wrote:

Also, sorry to hear about Bill. Nice to see him commemorated on the wangernumb. He looked like a lovely chap.

Thanks, Bill was by my side or at my feet pretty much all day everyday. I know it is a loss every pet owner has to endure but I would have preferred he lived a bit longer than a year and a half, it was just too short a life for such a sweet dog.



That's sad. Definitely too short a life. He always looked like he was having a great time at least.
andrewF
New one:


Numberwang! - basically a 1-16 decoder with sync and async modes. Just feed it 4 signals and get all sorts of complex gate patterns from it. Runs at audio rates too so can be used as a sub-octave generator.
PCB - US$20
Panel - US$25






indigoid
Do any of those numbers on the Numberwang panel actually mean anything?

In the interviews with Keith Emerson/Moog, re: his modular, there was some amusing comment about a module in the top row that just had a blinking light, sharing nothing but the power supply, and doing nothing more than entertaining humans' lust to find patterns where there aren't any. When I first saw the Numberwang panel, this is what sprang to mind ;-)
malnatim
RIP bill. what a great looking dog.
andrewF
indigoid wrote:
Do any of those numbers on the Numberwang panel actually mean anything?

numberwang!
ear ear
Andrew, how do the functions of the Numberwang and the Divine CMOS compare? Worth building both? What functionality is duplicated, if any? Would they do anything particularly awesome in combination?
andrewF
andrewF wrote:
indigoid wrote:
Do any of those numbers on the Numberwang panel actually mean anything?

numberwang!


The real numbers are on the PCB, outputs from 0000 to 1111. The numbers on the panel are mainly ones popular on Numberwang, especially shinty-six (which is a real number).

andrewF
ear ear wrote:
Andrew, how do the functions of the Numberwang and the Divine CMOS compare? Worth building both? What functionality is duplicated, if any? Would they do anything particularly awesome in combination?


Numberwang works very nicely with any kind of divider. I designed it to go with the gate outputs of the 4Seq, but the Divine CMOS would be as good if not better at the same job.
You can use the Numberwang to get sub-octaves, but not with the pots to mix them together (along with the XOR'd and signal from the 2nd input) that you get with the Divine CMOS.

In the video I just used 4 LFOs so the pattern is almost random, but there is a pattern.
ear ear
thumbs up

Sounds great! SlayerBadger! Guinness ftw!
trip
Sorry to hear about Bill andrewF, RIP.

All the NLC 2k16 stuff looks amazing, numberwang looks rad. I really like circuits like this with simple inputs and crazy complex outputs, similarly the diff rectifier circuits you like to put in your circuits.

Any news on the Brian Custard and Squid pcbs? The shift register+non-linear feedback on the squid sounds really interesting, are the four outputs the individual steps of the shift register? Any chance of a summed 'dac-y' output like on the noisering or rungler or something like that(If i'm understanding those circuits properly)?
andrewF
trip wrote:
Sorry to hear about Bill andrewF, RIP.

Thanks
trip wrote:

....similarly the diff rectifier circuits you like to put in your circuits.

I hate to waste op amps, so if there is one left over......diff-rect!
trip wrote:

Any news on the Brian Custard and Squid pcbs? The shift register+non-linear feedback on the squid sounds really interesting, are the four outputs the individual steps of the shift register? Any chance of a summed 'dac-y' output like on the noisering or rungler or something like that(If i'm understanding those circuits properly)?


Brain Custard PCBs are here, panels will be here by Friday.
The order for the Squid Axon only just went thru (tbh I had forgotten to send it in), so 2-3 weeks.

The shift registers on the Squid Axon are analogue, so no need for any DAC sub-circuit. The 4 outputs are putting out CV from each stage (or audio if you want to crank it up). In a sense, by co-incidence rather than intent, it is a tarted up Analogue Shift Register, though the implementation is different from the Fukushi Kawakami, Plan B, Serge & CGS versions. I was more interested in getting a squid axon simulator than an ASR, but with the 2 feedback pots turned to 0, you have an ASR. The S&H sections are nothing fancy so a little voltage droop wouldn't be surprising. Here's the schematic if it helps:
MatrixModulator
Hey Andrew, i'm planning my next pcb's order and i was wondering if the Matrix Mixer can be used with audio as well as cv?

http://nonlinearcircuits.blogspot.ca/2015/03/cv-controlled-matrix-mixe r.html

Thanks ! nanners
andrewF
MatrixModulator wrote:
Hey Andrew, i'm planning my next pcb's order and i was wondering if the Matrix Mixer can be used with audio as well as cv?

http://nonlinearcircuits.blogspot.ca/2015/03/cv-controlled-matrix-mixe r.html

Thanks ! nanners


Yes it can


btw - squis axon panels are delayed, they forgot to route the holes for the pots.
flab
andrewF wrote:
The brain Custard ... Maybe for the production run, I could add connection points so each output of each chaotic oscillator is available, to be wired to an expander panel....or maybe I should just blow the whole thing out and add an extra 9 outputs ...whynot Miley Cyrus


Andrew did you end up adding some extras on that module of yours
andrewF
No extra outputs, tho easy enough to mod if you want to.
I did refine the design a lot, improved response to input signals and changed the blend and custard outputs so they don't get too close to the rails.

Panels and PCBs for Brain Custard and Doof are tested and in stock btw, just been too busy to tell anyone or make a demo vid Smash!
MatrixModulator
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
Hey Andrew, i'm planning my next pcb's order and i was wondering if the Matrix Mixer can be used with audio as well as cv?

http://nonlinearcircuits.blogspot.ca/2015/03/cv-controlled-matrix-mixe r.html

Thanks ! nanners


Yes it can


btw - squis axon panels are delayed, they forgot to route the holes for the pots.


Nice thanks!
flab
another mod i think is possible, or maybe not are switches for different capacitors for every oscillator, so to get rythms as well? but first i have to order
thetwlo
all of these look fantastic!!!

just ordered a hot air station for these, had no idea they were so affordable now.
SlayerBadger! w00t
MatrixModulator
thetwlo wrote:
all of these look fantastic!!!

just ordered a hot air station for these, had no idea they were so affordable now.
SlayerBadger! w00t


which one you got?
thetwlo
MatrixModulator wrote:

which one you got?


YIHUA 853D
http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Rework-Station-welder-YIHUA/dp/B01AOA9 D3A

There are cheaper clones or just unbranded ones on ebay--same model #, but felt slightly better from Amazon with a brand on it. Likely no difference, but this is at least easy to return if there's an issue.

oh, and just ordered so if there's something better you'd recommend... or this is crap... let me know, can cancel.
EarlJemmings
andrewF wrote:
No extra outputs, tho easy enough to mod if you want to.
I did refine the design a lot, improved response to input signals and changed the blend and custard outputs so they don't get too close to the rails.

Panels and PCBs for Brain Custard and Doof are tested and in stock btw, just been too busy to tell anyone or make a demo vid Smash!


Good to hear!
Definitely want to grip a brain custard and squid axon- are both surface mount?
andrewF
flab wrote:
another mod i think is possible, or maybe not are switches for different capacitors for every oscillator, so to get rythms as well? but first i have to order


Yes this would work. You will need a 3PDT switch, as there are 3 caps for each oscillator. Then each section could be switched between 3 different core frequencies.
andrewF
EarlJemmings wrote:

Definitely want to grip a brain custard and squid axon- are both surface mount?

Yes - 0805 and SOIC, tho the squid has a dip 4017 for some reason hmmm.....



EarlJemmings
Cool, that'll definitely be some practice.
I'll keep an eye out for the BOM!
ym2612
Brain Custard will challenge my SMD-fu screaming goo yo
MatrixModulator
Someone knows where's the numberwang build guide or Bom?
Thanks
It's peanut butter jelly time!
andrewF
MatrixModulator wrote:
Someone knows where's the numberwang build guide or Bom?
Thanks
It's peanut butter jelly time!

doesn't exist yet

Should be easy to work out from the PCB, there are not that many different parts.
The main point is the 1k/2k2resistors for the LEDs, if using superbright LEDs, you should change these to something like 3k3/6k8
Eloc
Are null-A PCBs/panels going to be available, or are they for a workshop? I figure it would be a good starter for a friend of mine.
andrewF
Eloc wrote:
Are null-A PCBs/panels going to be available, or are they for a workshop?

They were designed for use at a local university in their Bachelor of Sound course.

A few people have asked so I will get more, but they will be redesigned, there are a few layout errors on the current batch and building them I have thought of a few ways to make them better.
MatrixModulator
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
Someone knows where's the numberwang build guide or Bom?
Thanks
It's peanut butter jelly time!

doesn't exist yet

Should be easy to work out from the PCB, there are not that many different parts.
The main point is the 1k/2k2resistors for the LEDs, if using superbright LEDs, you should change these to something like 3k3/6k8



Oh ok right i'll try my best, i guess it will be fine!

Just a few questions please:

- Is there any bipolar elect caps i should be aware on the numberwang pcb you sent me?

- I can use Digikey part number 296-14282-5-ND for the 4514 right?

- There is 3 x tl072 right? (just making sure as there's holes hiding some of the pcb silkscreen)

- I guess all diodes are 1n4148 like usual?

- Other than the "mods" you wrote on my pcb/papersheet, all the resistor values on the silkscreen are correct right?

- What component i should use for theses marked by the red arrows?





That's about it! Can't wait to try them, still waiting for my custom panels to be made.

Thanks!
ym2612
Finished my Giant B0N0 over the weekend, and I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy soldering 0805 by hand can be with the right tools. I'm suddenly feeling much less intimidated by the Brain Custard. nanners

Is that going to be another 12hp panel?
andrewF
MatrixModulator wrote:
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
Someone knows where's the numberwang build guide or Bom?
Thanks
It's peanut butter jelly time!

doesn't exist yet

Should be easy to work out from the PCB, there are not that many different parts.
The main point is the 1k/2k2resistors for the LEDs, if using superbright LEDs, you should change these to something like 3k3/6k8



Oh ok right i'll try my best, i guess it will be fine!

Just a few questions please:


Build guide/BOM
www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/Numberwang%20BOM%20guide.pdf

Panel
www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/numberwang%20panel.pdf
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
Finished my Giant B0N0 over the weekend, and I'm pleasantly surprised at how easy soldering 0805 by hand can be with the right tools. I'm suddenly feeling much less intimidated by the Brain Custard. nanners

Is that going to be another 12hp panel?


Yes I have them here, just haven't updated the PCBs For Sale page......having too much fun soldering Dead Banana
MatrixModulator
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
Someone knows where's the numberwang build guide or Bom?
Thanks
It's peanut butter jelly time!

doesn't exist yet

Should be easy to work out from the PCB, there are not that many different parts.
The main point is the 1k/2k2resistors for the LEDs, if using superbright LEDs, you should change these to something like 3k3/6k8



Oh ok right i'll try my best, i guess it will be fine!

Just a few questions please:


Build guide/BOM
www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/Numberwang%20BOM%20guide.pdf

Panel
www.sdiy.org/pinky/data/numberwang%20panel.pdf


Oh yes! Awesome, thanks! MY ASS IS BLEEDING
andrewF
Brain Custard panel template

Brain Custard build guide & BOM



EarlJemmings
Nice. Just popped a mouser cart for brain custard in the NLC mouser thread
geecen
Has anyone tried making Banana versions of these newer type NLC PCBs? I guess it would just be a case of working out how to mount the PCB sideways. Or could you also use pots with extra long legs and squeeze in the bananas between the PCB and front panel? Just wondering how hard a banana U3 NLc system would be to put together! cool Dead Banana
ehafh
ahoy, do you have any suggestions for a pcb of yours and a pcb from whatever ( any electronics practice thing ) to try and give SMD soldering a go?

i've wanted to check out some more of your pcb/panels but haven't tried my hand at SMD yet.

it would be cool to see some of these modules in a stacked form using through hole. smd seems a bit annoying, but i guess i'll bite the bullet and train that skill soon. cool looking modules, i like the bonus text on the pcbs.
andrewF
EarlJemmings wrote:
Nice. Just popped a mouser cart for brain custard in the NLC mouser thread

Thankyou we're not worthy
andrewF
geecen wrote:
Has anyone tried making Banana versions of these newer type NLC PCBs? I guess it would just be a case of working out how to mount the PCB sideways. Or could you also use pots with extra long legs and squeeze in the bananas between the PCB and front panel? Just wondering how hard a banana U3 NLc system would be to put together! cool Dead Banana


If you use shallow bananas, heaps on ebay, it is pretty easy. I keep meaning to build a nana version for myself, just kinda busy these days hihi

andrewF
ehafh wrote:
ahoy, do you have any suggestions for a pcb of yours and a pcb from whatever ( any electronics practice thing ) to try and give SMD soldering a go?

i've wanted to check out some more of your pcb/panels but haven't tried my hand at SMD yet.

it would be cool to see some of these modules in a stacked form using through hole. smd seems a bit annoying, but i guess i'll bite the bullet and train that skill soon. cool looking modules, i like the bonus text on the pcbs.


lol i find thru-hole annoying, all those wires to bend and snip (when you are placing 100s of components a day, it is a lot of time wasted).
Once you try smd, you will realise it is quite quick & easy. Check out a few vids on youtube to get some pointers, search smd or surface mount soldering.
BOOLs & 4SEQ are good starters as the ICs are thru-hole, just the passives are smd. Also the pads for the passives are 1206, so you can fit 1206 or 0805 components on there.
The Triad is good for starting with smd ICs, it has very few parts and only five 8 pin chips, plus 3 transistors.
HeWhoWantsJeans
andrewF wrote:

Numberwang! - basically a 1-16 decoder with sync and async modes. Just feed it 4 signals and get all sorts of complex gate patterns from it. Runs at audio rates too so can be used as a sub-octave generator.
PCB - US$20
Panel - US$25

THAT'S NUMBERWANG
andrewF
Doof drum module build guide & BOM
Doof panel template
ehafh
andrewF wrote:
ehafh wrote:
ahoy, do you have any suggestions for a pcb of yours and a pcb from whatever ( any electronics practice thing ) to try and give SMD soldering a go?

i've wanted to check out some more of your pcb/panels but haven't tried my hand at SMD yet.

it would be cool to see some of these modules in a stacked form using through hole. smd seems a bit annoying, but i guess i'll bite the bullet and train that skill soon. cool looking modules, i like the bonus text on the pcbs.


lol i find thru-hole annoying, all those wires to bend and snip (when you are placing 100s of components a day, it is a lot of time wasted).
Once you try smd, you will realise it is quite quick & easy. Check out a few vids on youtube to get some pointers, search smd or surface mount soldering.
BOOLs & 4SEQ are good starters as the ICs are thru-hole, just the passives are smd. Also the pads for the passives are 1206, so you can fit 1206 or 0805 components on there.
The Triad is good for starting with smd ICs, it has very few parts and only five 8 pin chips, plus 3 transistors.


thanks, i'll give one of your suggestions a try.
NS4W
Great design on these new modules! It would be sweet if you'd do a giant BØNØ demo with not everything full on? Putting a sampled sound or instrument or something through it. (For all I know maybe its not even possible to get an output that resembles the input? hihi )
andrewF
Thanks - Been a bit behind with demos, I've had a few problems with my vidcam recently, suspect I blew one of the audio channels Dead Banana

Sometimes the Bon0 just starts up on its own, without any inputs and even after sitting quietly for a few minutes, then it goes nuts zombie
nigel
Just posted my modified guitar pedal giant B0N0 in the 2016 builds thread. It's quite an unpredictable beast for sure. I didn't even bother connecting the input, it's just an endless source of noise.
andrewF
NS4W wrote:
Great design on these new modules! It would be sweet if you'd do a giant BØNØ demo with not everything full on? Putting a sampled sound or instrument or something through it. (For all I know maybe its not even possible to get an output that resembles the input? hihi )

here we go!
ym2612
My DIY B0N0 is a bit strange (maybe it's supposed to be?) It's liveliest when I first power it up, but the PLL side often goes quiet for minutes at a time, only to spring into life again unexpectedly. It's hard to get it kickstarted again consistently. In that video, the PLL sounds coming from it are fairly siney, while mine sounds more distorted and square-wavey.

I think I need to study the schematic more.
bezier
While the numberwang looks great, it seems to rely quite heavily on normalization. Is that correct? I am asking as i am planning a little banana system. hmmm.....
andrewF
bezier wrote:
While the numberwang looks great, it seems to rely quite heavily on normalization. Is that correct? I am asking as i am planning a little banana system. hmmm.....


Just the sync/async input. Easy enough to add a toggle switch to select modes, or leave it off. I never use it on mine.....but that may just be my personal reference for the less predictable nature of async SlayerBadger!
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
My DIY B0N0 is a bit strange (maybe it's supposed to be?) It's liveliest when I first power it up, but the PLL side often goes quiet for minutes at a time, only to spring into life again unexpectedly. It's hard to get it kickstarted again consistently. In that video, the PLL sounds coming from it are fairly siney, while mine sounds more distorted and square-wavey.

I think I need to study the schematic more.


I have built around 6 of these now and they have all been quite vocal but currently have one on the bench that is shy like yours.
Not sure whether it is due to the vactrols or 4046, as I used a different brand chip and the vactrols were DIY ones. Anyway will let you know when I sass it.
bezier
andrewF wrote:
Just the sync/async input. Easy enough to add a toggle switch to select modes, or leave it off. I never use it on mine.....but that may just be my personal reference for the less predictable nature of async SlayerBadger!


Oh, cool. Thanks a lot Andrew w00t
andrewF
[quote="andrewF"]
ym2612 wrote:
My DIY B0N0 is a bit strange (maybe it's supposed to be?) It's liveliest when I first power it up, but the PLL side often goes quiet for minutes at a time, only to spring into life again unexpectedly. It's hard to get it kickstarted again consistently. In that video, the PLL sounds coming from it are fairly siney, while mine sounds more distorted and square-wavey.



Found the problem:
Build Guide has been updated
See pics





MatrixModulator
So i'm making a design for Numberwang panel, i was wondering... Does the numbers are random on the frontpanel? I mean, is there a reason behind theses numbers? Thanks!
andrewF
MatrixModulator wrote:
So i'm making a design for Numberwang panel, i was wondering... Does the numbers are random on the frontpanel? I mean, is there a reason behind theses numbers? Thanks!


All the numbers are from various episodes of Numberwang. The binary numbers of the actual outputs are printed on the PCB.
MatrixModulator
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
So i'm making a design for Numberwang panel, i was wondering... Does the numbers are random on the frontpanel? I mean, is there a reason behind theses numbers? Thanks!


All the numbers are from various episodes of Numberwang. The binary numbers of the actual outputs are printed on the PCB.


Oh ok thanks, so there's no relation with the module functionnality and the numbers chosen right?
andrewF
I chose those numbers very carefully so to me there is a relation, but in a normal world - no. Miley Cyrus
MatrixModulator
hehehe good nanners

Thanks Andrew!
ablearcher
a note on the fk1t: there is a 1n (102) cap in the schematic and on the pcb that is missing from the BOM.

anyway, I got some in stock, just sayin though. back to soldering!
andrewF
ablearcher wrote:
a note on the fk1t: there is a 1n (102) cap in the schematic and on the pcb that is missing from the BOM.

anyway, I got some in stock, just sayin though. back to soldering!


There is a 1nF cap in the BOM, 2nd from the top, 2nd column.
Thanks tho, its nice to have BOMs correct.
geecen
For all the NLC fans out there that don't follow Andrew's blog page: there are two new percussion modules coming in July - a snare / hh module and a mystery percussion model! applause
br1qbat
Hells yeah!
ym2612
andrewF wrote:

Found the problem:
Build Guide has been updated
See pics


I finally had a chance to try this, and it worked great. My B0N0 is now much more talkative. Thanks! thumbs up
trip
In anticipation of my squid axon pcbs arriving, I made a digital implementation of it in gen~ after Andrew explained to me how the dif feedback paths work.

First example is sampling a really slow tri wave with a very fast (~2k) clock and lots of feedback to everything. Can't really remember what the other bits are, doesn't really matter - this thing sounds fucking crazy It's peanut butter jelly time!

Outputs of the four stages go to four tri oscs, stage 1 and 4 to the shitty digital scope. Sound quality is real nasty from multiple video encodings.

andrewF
Great vid, lots of interesting patterns
nigel
andrewF wrote:

Found the problem:
Build Guide has been updated

It's a bit hard to tell from those instructions, was there a change to the schematic, or did the layout not match the circuit?
malnatim
wow trip, that's very cool and very clever. there' so much great stuff from nlc. squid axon is next on my list.
andrewF
nigel wrote:
andrewF wrote:

Found the problem:
Build Guide has been updated

It's a bit hard to tell from those instructions, was there a change to the schematic, or did the layout not match the circuit?


error on the layout. not a biggie but reduced functional range of the Courics pot. Schematic is fine, tho I did change the 470k to 220k....either one will work hihi
Monobass
big batch of NLC stuff now on Thonk and with some tasty discounts for one week smile

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/nlc/



We have all of these:

Sloth
BOOLs
Timbre!
FK1T VCF
Dual OTA VCO
Dual LFO
Giant B0n0
Numberwang
329 Phaser & Flanger
4Seq
Multiband Distortion
Serious VCF
Triad
1050 Mix/Seq
Neuron
Flip Flop Chaos
DelayNoMore
Chopper
Collude
Vactrol PiLL
Low Pass Gate
Eurorack PSU – PCB Only
Segue
Mixer
Sauce of Unce
Matrix Mixer
trip
Used squid axon, shapeshifter, and radio music to make this mess this afternoon Rockin' Banana! [s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/24-6-2a[/s]
NJR Buffalo
Does anyone have carts for the phaser/flanger and the mixer/sequencer? Thank you.
ym2612
Is Brain Custard still happening? This is fun!
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
Is Brain Custard still happening? This is fun!

Yes, they have been available for a couple of months, the build guide is HERE. You can build it in 2 versions; audio rate or CV rate. I have both in my rack and reckon they are simply nasty.
trip
Here's mixseq and a quadrature lfo controlling delaynomore and an IF chaotica [s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/57a[/s] nanners

Think I want to swap the vactrol on the delaynomore for one with a faster response - would that make the cv response a bit faster, or am I barkin up wrong tree?
andrewF
trip wrote:
Here's mixseq and a quadrature lfo controlling delaynomore and an IF chaotica [s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/57a[/s] nanners

Think I want to swap the vactrol on the delaynomore for one with a faster response - would that make the cv response a bit faster, or am I barkin up wrong tree?


Should make a difference, probably. cool

Internet is crap atm, so cannot play your track - sorry
thetwlo
telharmonic, mutant BD and Chaotica into the NLC NEURON lower half as "mixer" !!=
http://atlatl.bandcamp.com/album/zolpidem
thetwlo
Any benefit from using the OPA4134 in the 329 Phaser? or for the Serious Filter and FK1T?
andrewF
thetwlo wrote:
Any benefit from using the OPA4134 in the 329 Phaser? or for the Serious Filter and FK1T?


Never tried it.
I'm happy with TL series, but my ears are tired and jaded.
thetwlo
andrewF wrote:

Never tried it.
I'm happy with TL series, but my ears are tired and jaded.


I think I'll try some in the 329 Phaser, seems like that could benefit the most.
I've been really impressed with the R*S and the L-1 stuff with better op amps, haven't done any side by side, but I *feel* like they sound better... I know it could be BS... and I mostly do noise stuff, and love things like the Delay No More I just finished, so a bit silly.
I'm use to through hole where better quad op amps are hard to come by-- although better dual TH are cheap at least at Tayda.
Tverse
Has anyone built a 4Seq?

I built a couple and they are not working. Still pretty new to this, but there is a pad I left blank as it was unmarked (see pic it's on the right side below the 2 knobs).

Is there something that should go there?
andrewF
The letter or number indicating the resistor value usually goes between the pads of that component. so you need to change the position of one and add one.

Tverse
Well that makes total sense. Thank you!
trip
andrewF do you have any scope shots or demos of the cv version of the brain custard? It's next on the list, and instinct tells me I'll need one of each screaming goo yo

A bit more info would be handy, has anyone else built these yet?
malnatim
trip wrote:
has anyone else built these yet?


i have and i love it. it seems similar to jerkoffs. i put in lfos, envelopes or other chaotic cv signals and get out jerky/wiggle-y versions. you also have a blended output of all 3 and a custard (neuron?) version.
ablearcher
really digging the way a lot of the recent modules play together.

finished the brain custard. by itself it seems to be a sort of drone/noise machine, but taking cv from the squid axon being fed by the mixseq and now it's kicking out some sort of autonomous dub action.
malnatim
andrewF, would a matched pair of PF5102 or 2N547 JFETS be ok in the 329? maybe PF5102 look good...
http://stompville.co.uk/?p=763
andrewF
malnatim wrote:
andrewF, would a matched pair of PF5102 or 2N547 JFETS be ok in the 329? maybe PF5102 look good...
http://stompville.co.uk/?p=763


Probably be fine, just tweak the gain trimpot to suit.

I have found it is pretty important the FETs are well matched, so get a good number to test. Typically from a batch of 40 I get 2 really close pairs and 3 or 4 'pretty good's
malnatim
thanks andrew. i tested 35 J112 and only found a reasonably matched pair. so, either i can order loads more J112 and have more spare than i'll ever use, or i thought i could try a pair from here.
http://www.stompville.co.uk/shop/3-pf5102-matched-pair.html
they seem good value and they're local to me.
andrewF
Assuming they work in the circuit (and should do), yes - a bargain w00t
trip
Would be interested to hear how that works out malnatim matching the fets is whats put me off building the 329 for the past wee while
malnatim
trip wrote:
Would be interested to hear how that works out malnatim matching the fets is whats put me off building the 329 for the past wee while


i'll let you know how it goes. won't be for a couple of weeks though.
synthcube
with thanks to andrew for the permission, and clarke robinson for the design work, we're making our latest aluminum euro panels available for more of the nlc modules--- with more on the way !!

(before you ask--- some of the renderings show davies style knobs, while we typically kit the classic clarke68 style knobs-- contact us via email if you prefer one over another)

enjoy!




andrewF
love love Miley Cyrus
GryphonP3
synthcube wrote:
with thanks to andrew for the permission, and clarke robinson for the design work, we're making our latest aluminum euro panels available for more of the nlc modules--- with more on the way !!

(before you ask--- some of the renderings show davies style knobs, while we typically kit the classic clarke68 style knobs-- contact us via email if you prefer one over another)

enjoy!







Oooooooo gonna have to pick up that 1050 panel SlayerBadger!
ear ear
Andrew, what are the differences between the 4U VCO and the new CEM3340 VCO? CEM3340 an easier build?
andrewF
The CEM3340 version has about half the number of components, plus, except for the 3340, they are all 0805 & SOIC surface mount.
Also it loses the sawtooth processor and gains a sine output.
Should be a much easier build.
Oh, and it is for Eurorack w00t



trip
Really excited for these new ones, it's impossible to keep up with you! Can't believe the rate you're putting these out, top work.

Also wanna add that the mixseq is fucking amazing, and probs my most used module at the minute. It's great for setting up a bunch of different feedback paths in the mixer mode with some of the inputs as a static sequence - easily making something that can instantly move from chaos to stasis love. Having all the dif outputs means it gets chucked around the entire patch as well. I briefly took it out of my live rack to try out a different setup but missed it right away.

Edit: ps. Everything I know about hardware tells me that it's a sloooow process.. then Andrew puts out 100 modules in 8 months and makes it look ez Dead Banana
andrewF
lol Thanks, I probably should get a social life and go outside sometimes eek!
basicbasic
Really keen for that PLL based Ring Mod you posted on yr blog!
EarlJemmings
Was just building my Squid axon and brain custard (first surface mount and it went well!)

I noticed the Squid Axon has a couple 10R through hole resistors that aren't on the BOM, I plugged in a couple I have around- just wondering if they were maybe purposely left out or anything?
andrewF
EarlJemmings wrote:
Was just building my Squid axon and brain custard (first surface mount and it went well!)

I noticed the Squid Axon has a couple 10R through hole resistors that aren't on the BOM, I plugged in a couple I have around- just wondering if they were maybe purposely left out or anything?


d'oh! they are kinda necessary...........accidently left out, I better update the manual - thanks

edit - manual updated
maltemark
With the squid axon, and all this new stuff .... Wow! And thanks for your efforts Andrew :)
andrewF
EarlJemmings wrote:
Was just building my Squid axon and brain custard (first surface mount and it went well!)



Well done btw thumbs up
ym2612
Urge to build a full rack of NLC rising...
EarlJemmings
Think I may have run into a couple issues with my squid axon/brain custard builds:

squid Axon is mostly fine, but there is a spike when it gets a gate, and a couple outputs are noisy. Outputs 1 and 2 have both spikes and noise and seem to be the same, output 3 has spikes but no noise, output 4 is fine

Brain Custard's blend output is very quiet, about +/- .25v or less, where the custard output is a solid +/- 6V. Y and Z are both below 5v, but I think that's normal. The high is always very present, and although I can attenuate it a little bit with the blend knob, it won't go much quieter then mid or low. Also seems to add noise to the signal if I touch either of the high pots.

I can post pcb pics when I get home tonight
andrewF
Not sure about the Squid, never really had problems with it. I guess look for smd components where one end hasn't been soldered to the pad properly, that is a common error.

With the BC, the blend pots are 0 at midpoint, -1x gain to the left and +1x gain to the right. So if the pots are around the middle the signal will be small. You should be seeing a lot more than 0.25V tho.

The size of any of the outputs really depends on the pots setting for the chaos circuits. They can be quite small or up to +/-10V

Pictures might be good eek!
EarlJemmings
andrewF wrote:
Not sure about the Squid, never really had problems with it. I guess look for smd components where one end hasn't been soldered to the pad properly, that is a common error.

With the BC, the blend pots are 0 at midpoint, -1x gain to the left and +1x gain to the right. So if the pots are around the middle the signal will be small. You should be seeing a lot more than 0.25V tho.

The size of any of the outputs really depends on the pots setting for the chaos circuits. They can be quite small or up to +/-10V

Pictures might be good eek!


Thanks for the response! Looking over the boards, I don't see anything that is not obviously soldered correctly- if anything the resistors have a tad too much solder, but it was the best I could get with an iron.

There is a spot on one tl072 on the custard where I've scraped the board a bit from when I removed some solder connecting the two pins. No shorting between them.

I figured centre was supposed to be 0 on the blend, but yeah, won't silence. Played with it for a bit, but no settings would get it to a decent amplitude. Middle row of knobs are CV attenuators, yeah?

Maybe if I washed the board to get rid of some flux? Haven't had an issue with it in the past, but idk, maybe with surface mount


(large [https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8038/28925200530_140145d094_o.jpg]here[  /url])


(large here)


(large here)
andrewF
Soldering looks okay to me, just check that pins 10 & 11 are not shorted on the Squid's DG switching chip....can't read the number on it.
Are all pots 100k?

Quote:
Middle row of knobs are CV attenuators, yeah?

No, these are internal parts of the chaos circuits, so will greatly affect the proceedings depending how they are set, at zero things are shut-down a bit, so crank them up. You should see some change in the LEDs when they are tweaked.
You could reduce the influence of the HI section by changing the resistor highlighted to something larger; 220k, 330k or even 470k. Tho I think you may just need to tweak the pots a bit.



With the Squid, make sure the pots are turned to zero when testing. These certainly make it become quite erratic when turned up.
EarlJemmings
andrewF wrote:
Soldering looks okay to me, just check that pins 10 & 11 are not shorted on the Squid's DG switching chip....can't read the number on it.
Are all pots 100k?


oop, good eye! They are indeed shorted together, and that's probably my problem.

andrewF wrote:

No, these are internal parts of the chaos circuits, so will greatly affect the proceedings depending how they are set, at zero things are shut-down a bit, so crank them up. You should see some change in the LEDs when they are tweaked...
With the Squid, make sure the pots are turned to zero when testing. These certainly make it become quite erratic when turned up.


I was keeping the pots ccw, definitely fiddling with all of em in my testing. Plugged back in now to double check, nothing patching wise will effect the amplitude of the blend output. I'll go over the ICs in the custard a third time with a fine comb to make sure I didn't miss any shorts.

Btw, my testing of the Squid, I love the way it works. Feedback controls are just wonderful for adding that element to CV. Loving what I'm getting from the pair so far!
And thanks again for the help we're not worthy
EarlJemmings
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJiLFF6gdrf/

Well that fixed the Squid! Still some sharp spikes on out 1, but they're so quick it's not noticeable enough for me to worry about. The phase issue and noise are sorted w00t

Brain custard I couldn't find anything, so I'll live for now with just using the x/y/z/custard outputs.
Quite happy with my new additions to the team Guinness ftw!
schumeng_resonance
wowowow inspiring stuff. I hope to own one of these bad boys someday. Have you ever considered making a theremin module? I wish there were more people building those.
Altitude909
So are you going to supply the 3340?
andrewF
schumeng_resonance wrote:
wowowow inspiring stuff. I hope to own one of these bad boys someday. Have you ever considered making a theremin module? I wish there were more people building those.


Cheers Guinness ftw!

I have been thinking about controllers, especially using mems technology, got a few things here to try.
indigoid
andrewF wrote:
I have been thinking about controllers, especially using mems technology, got a few things here to try.


ooooooh this is exciting
andrewF
Altitude909 wrote:
So are you going to supply the 3340?


PCB & panel yes, but I guess you mean the IC?

I didn't plan to as it is likely stores like Synthcube, Thonk & ModularAddict will get them eventually.

Also shipping from Aus will be $20, I can get away with sending sending PCBs as a letter (printed boards = printed material) but an IC in there will mean it goes at parcel rates.

It is pretty easy to order from OnChip, at least within the USA, it will be the cheapest option.
basicbasic
Finally got the final parts to finish my 32:1 - worked on first go - I guess my SMT skills are improving.

It truly is one sequential switch to rule them all!
Altitude909
andrewF wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
So are you going to supply the 3340?


PCB & panel yes, but I guess you mean the IC?

I didn't plan to as it is likely stores like Synthcube, Thonk & ModularAddict will get them eventually.

Also shipping from Aus will be $20, I can get away with sending sending PCBs as a letter (printed boards = printed material) but an IC in there will mean it goes at parcel rates.

It is pretty easy to order from OnChip, at least within the USA, it will be the cheapest option.


of course smile Keeping forgetting WA isn't Washington state..
basicbasic
Finished the 32:1 over the weekend. SMD is definitely getting easier for me (although I prefer TH still).

Andrew graciously talked me through how to add a switch to toggle between 32, 16 and 8 steps. Thankfully there is JUST enough space below the row of LEDs to squeeze the bastard in.

Such a useful module!

andrewF
thumbs up nice job
tho I reckon you figured out the 16 step mod on your own hihi
basicbasic
I just realised the switch isn't lined up with the jacks. very frustrating
trip
I'll have to double check this tomorrow, but I'm wondering if my squid axon is working correctly. I think it's only sampling the input every fourth clock pulse, whilst passing the input down the register every pulse. Is this how it's supposed to work? I was thinking it should be sampling a new value on every pulse - but I think what the outputs would look like is this if the previous sample was 1v and the current sample is 2v:

2111 2211 2221 - new sample - 3222 3322 3332 3333 etc...

I'll double check this tomorrow, I usually use it in totally crazy patches where it's impossible to tell what's doing what anyway. So I hadn't really noticed it until a gig the other day where I had the clock very slow.
andrewF
trip wrote:
I'll have to double check this tomorrow, but I'm wondering if my squid axon is working correctly. I think it's only sampling the input every fourth clock pulse, whilst passing the input down the register every pulse. Is this how it's supposed to work? I was thinking it should be sampling a new value on every pulse - but I think what the outputs would look like is this if the previous sample was 1v and the current sample is 2v:


Yep, every 4th pulse. If it took a new sample on every pulse, that sample would flood straight thru to stage 2 (and beyond) as it tries to get its sample from stage 1.
thelizard
Loving the Clarke panels. Waiting on a Mouser shipment to finish up builds for the 1050, Delay No More, and FK1T. Looking forward to future panels!

As a heads up to anyone ordering the Clarke Sloth panels, the LED hole is cut for 5mm, not 3mm like the Modular Addict panels.
thelizard
Delay No More works perfectly (if that's a word you could use to describe DNM). My FK1T is behaving... interestingly. I think one of the vactrols may be busted, or their response times are way too unmatched (I'm using vactrols bought during a Goldmine sale). Any way to test them in situ?

The behavior is as follows:
-I have to turn the Traveler 1 pot up to about 9 o'clock before it "clicks" on (there's a definite "here's the vactrol turning on" sound).
-If I turn Traveler 1 back down to 7 o'clock (fully CCW), the signal dies off.
-It does not die off if Bright is turned fully up.
-Bright doesn't have much of an effect on signal timbre otherwise.
andrewF
Maybe double-check if the LEDs are installed correctly, it sounds like one of the vactrols isn't working.
Testing in situ is a bit tricky, you could try measuring voltage drops by probing across the anode and cathode legs of the vactrols.
thelizard
andrewF wrote:
Maybe double-check if the LEDs are installed correctly, it sounds like one of the vactrols isn't working.
Testing in situ is a bit tricky, you could try measuring voltage drops by probing across the anode and cathode legs of the vactrols.


Thanks so much for the fast help! I'll report back once I figure out which one is acting up.

In the meantime, I just finished a 1050 build. Fantastic work thumbs up

Thinking of building up a Brain Custard next. Are there any videos of the CV version?
andrewF
thelizard wrote:


In the meantime, I just finished a 1050 build. Fantastic work thumbs up

Thinking of building up a Brain Custard next. Are there any videos of the CV version?


Crikey you are on a roll!
never made a vid for the CV version. It is a bit like 2-3 jerkoff chaos modules mixed together.
thelizard
andrewF wrote:
Crikey


When I finished the 1050 and saw it rotating CCW, I thought "Maybe it only rotates clockwise in Australia." I rewatched the video and realized that they all rotate CCW hihi
thelizard


These Clarke panels are killer. Here's an action shot for anyone interested. Haven't knobbed up the 1050 yet as I'm still verifying that everything works (pretty sure the answer is "yes").

1050 is a very straightforward and useful build. There are a lot of parts, but the layout is easy. The Delay No More was actually a harder build, since 0805 parts are actually a touch smaller than the pads. There's also SMD on both sides. I had an issue with my output stage, and it was tough finding it with all the knobs and jacks in place!

Highly recommend both. I'm a big fan of the "PT2399 breaking" sound, and DNM just runs with that.
knova
How difficult is the 1050 build, for someone who hasn't done a ton of (AKA Any) SMD soldering?
thelizard
knova wrote:
How difficult is the 1050 build, for someone who hasn't done a ton of (AKA Any) SMD soldering?


Definitely do a smaller build first. BOOLs and Triad are apparently good places to start. 1050 isn't particularly difficult, per se, but there are a ton of parts to solder in.
ym2612
Can anyone recommend a stereo 3.5mm jack that will fit the footprint for the headphone output on the Mixer PCB?
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
Can anyone recommend a stereo 3.5mm jack that will fit the footprint for the headphone output on the Mixer PCB?

Used to get them from Tayda but they don't seem to stock them anymore. Anyway - This one from Mouser is nice

ym2612
Nice, thank you!
maaaks
Anyone know the best way to get hold of a squid axon pcb/panel set in the UK? Thonk have got a bunch of NLC stuff, but not the squid for some reason.
andrewF
pm me
or check HERE
contact details at the bottom of the list
maaaks
Great thanks - email incoming
thelizard
8-Bit Cipher looks incredible! That's a wild number of outputs in that amount of space. Are you sending a batch of the new modules (8-bit, Rimples, CEM, 335) to any American DIY distributors soon?
andrewF
Thanks
The Cipher & CEM3340 VCO will be sent to ModularAddict, hopefully this week (waiting for the VCOs to arrive here).

The 335switch is no longer based on the Aries design. The proto-type worked okay but inspired me to approach the module quite differently and re-design it, so it is a VC router: 4 into 1, 1 into 4, 4 into 4 and 2 into 2. I will send off the files for a production run today.
Similarly Rimples worked okay but the original version gave me ideas to get a lot more out of it, so am breadboarding these atm.

At least the Wangernumb is finally ready, will be sending the files off along with the VC router.
maaaks
malnatim wrote:
trip wrote:
Would be interested to hear how that works out malnatim matching the fets is whats put me off building the 329 for the past wee while


i'll let you know how it goes. won't be for a couple of weeks though.


Any update on those matched FETs? I've just orderd a PCB and I'd forgotten about the FET matching business so this would be really handy.
malnatim
i'm sorry! i totally forgot about this. in the end i ordered some more J112 as i needed pairs for another build. so, i used matched J112 in my 329 and didn't try any of those potential alternatives.
maaaks
No worries malnatim.

Can you or andrewF shed any light into which specs matter as for choosing a FET to use?

The build doc says J112 or J108, but on mouser the J108 is about 10x the price of the j112. Plus you've used a J201 and the ones at StompVille.co.uk are different still!



hmmm.....
malnatim
i'm very sorry for the confusion. i meant J112 (as per bom). i hadn't woken-up properly when i wrote j201. i'll edit the post.

maaaks wrote:

Can you or andrewF shed any light into which specs matter as for choosing a FET to use?


Vgs (gate source cut-off voltage).

http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/fetmatch/fetmatch.htm
andrewF
get J112
according to the datasheet it is designed for analogue applications, whereas the J108 is designed for switching (so maybe better in a VCO)

(might all be bs tho, don't trust datasheets too much)
nff
wow the mixer sequencer looks amazing! such a great idea!
maaaks
Thanks for the info - I've learnt quite a bit about FETs today!

I've ordered a couple of pairs from stompville which look like they should work. I'll report back in a few weeks when I've got all the parts together.
maltemark
andrewf: Woop! I see that 3340 and 8bit cipher are now in stock! Yay! Can't fucking wait til paycheck day so I can put in a sizeable order :)
thelizard
Got a chance to sit down and diagnose my FK1T built today. Here's a picture of the build:



I measured the resistance of each vactrol on the exposed legs. Each vactrol had a resistance in the thousands, except the third vactrol from the left had a steady resistance of 0 ohms.

I unsoldered that vactrol and replaced it. The new vactrol also has a steady 0 ohms d'oh!

Am I being a dum-dum by measuring the exposed legs, did I somehow get two bum vactrols in a row, or do you think the problem exists elsewhere in the circuit?
andrewF
thelizard wrote:


Am I being a dum-dum by measuring the exposed legs, did I somehow get two bum vactrols in a row, or do you think the problem exists elsewhere in the circuit?


Not dumb at all, in fact a DIY gold star for you and a oops for me.

I checked the layout and found there is an error on the vers. 2 PCB which will be the cause of your problem.
The only difference between vers. 1 and vers. 2 is the vactrol pads were moved around to allow more space, in doing this I managed to connect 2 traces that shouldn't be. The error doesn't hurt anything but the filter loses much of the function of the affected vactrol.

You need to cut 2 traces and add a jumper. I have updated the build guide with the fixes:
Updated FK1T build guide

Sorry for the hassle & Thanks!!
thelizard
andrewF wrote:
thelizard wrote:


Am I being a dum-dum by measuring the exposed legs, did I somehow get two bum vactrols in a row, or do you think the problem exists elsewhere in the circuit?


Not dumb at all, in fact a DIY gold star for you and a oops for me.

I checked the layout and found there is an error on the vers. 2 PCB which will be the cause of your problem.
The only difference between vers. 1 and vers. 2 is the vactrol pads were moved around to allow more space, in doing this I managed to connect 2 traces that shouldn't be. The error doesn't hurt anything but the filter loses much of the function of the affected vactrol.

You need to cut 2 traces and add a jumper. I have updated the build guide with the fixes:
Updated FK1T build guide

Sorry for the hassle & Thanks!!


Awesome! Thanks for the help. That seemed to fix Traveler 2. Traveler 1 is still mute, so I'll keep on inspecting.
Altitude909
Are there build docs for the 3340 yet? Having trouble tracking those down
andrewF
Altitude909 wrote:
Are there build docs for the 3340 yet? Having trouble tracking those down


3rd from the bottom

Combine Overwatch
Altitude909
Thanks..
maaaks
Just built a Squid axon, Giant b0n0 and a phase flange

Couple of minor issues:

Giant b0n0 appears to be 'shy' - like someone previously posted, however I'd already followed the 'fix' in the build doc that should have sorted this. The PLL just seems quite unwilling to run - if the filter is set more than halfway it shuts off and the courics pot seems to silence it too. Worth trying a different 4046 perhaps?

Phase flange sounds incredible and using the matched fets from stompville.co.uk seems to have worked a treat, I just appear to have some kind of grounding issue where if I touch a pot or jiggle the jacks it sounds like some connection is being made and broken. I've probably just got a bad joint somewhere I guess.

Awesome modules!! Thanks Andrew.
andrewF
I know what you mean about the B0N0 being shy, some of them are shy and some never shut-up. It seems not all 4046 PLLs are the same, so feel free to try an different brand. Also you could try adding a resistor from pin 12 to ground, maybe 1M or so.

Not sure on the grounding issue with the phaser, haven't experienced it myself, I guess check the jacks all have their ground pins soldered along with other joints.
Good to hear the matched FETs work well, it is an important part of the circuit and matching FETs is a bit of a PITA (you need to test a lot to find a good pair).
jondent
andrewF wrote:
I know what you mean about the B0N0 being shy, some of them are shy and some never shut-up. It seems not all 4046 PLLs are the same, so feel free to try an different brand. Also you could try adding a resistor from pin 12 to ground, maybe 1M or so.

Not sure on the grounding issue with the phaser, haven't experienced it myself, I guess check the jacks all have their ground pins soldered along with other joints.
Good to hear the matched FETs work well, it is an important part of the circuit and matching FETs is a bit of a PITA (you need to test a lot to find a good pair).


Yes so impt.
Andrew advised me to use a Peak Atlas DC Pro.
Best advice ever. Money well spent. applause
MatrixModulator
So i tested 4SEQ module for the first time tonight. I was wondering if it's normal that the notes changes, it's a pattern but on the 4th bar it seems like one of the 4 notes is not the same pitch, maybe i have a bad IC in there?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/369715/Modular/4seq-output.mp4

Here's a video, thanks smile
ym2612
Just wanted to report in: I built a Super Sloth and a FK1T both successfully, no problems whatsoever. w00t I went with NSL-32s on the FK1T. It's a bit unconventional for a filter - sort of gentle and doesn't totally cancel the signal, but is nice for shaping the sound.
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
Just wanted to report in: I built a Super Sloth and a FK1T both successfully, no problems whatsoever. w00t I went with NSL-32s on the FK1T. It's a bit unconventional for a filter - sort of gentle and doesn't totally cancel the signal, but is nice for shaping the sound.


did you catch the post above about the mod required (well, its a good idea to do it) on the FK1T, the details are in the build guide?
ym2612
I missed that. I'll check which version I have and do the mod if it requires it.
andrewF
MatrixModulator wrote:
So i tested 4SEQ module for the first time tonight. I was wondering if it's normal that the notes changes, it's a pattern but on the 4th bar it seems like one of the 4 notes is not the same pitch, maybe i have a bad IC in there?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/369715/Modular/4seq-output.mp4

Here's a video, thanks smile


Do you know outputs X and Y run opposite to each other? X counts 1234 whilst Y goes 4321
MatrixModulator
andrewF wrote:
MatrixModulator wrote:
So i tested 4SEQ module for the first time tonight. I was wondering if it's normal that the notes changes, it's a pattern but on the 4th bar it seems like one of the 4 notes is not the same pitch, maybe i have a bad IC in there?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/369715/Modular/4seq-output.mp4

Here's a video, thanks smile


Do you know outputs X and Y run opposite to each other? X counts 1234 whilst Y goes 4321



Ops... sorry. Yes i know about that i think i read this on the build guide.
Hm.. let me explain a bit better.
When i read the voltages coming out of the "out x" jack or "out y" jacks i get sequences of 4 different voltages and it repeats indefinetely, which is normal, but each time it makes 4 repeats of 4 steps each, then one step drifts a bit...

For example :

The first 3 sequences of 4 steps will have theses voltages at the output:
2.96v
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

And then the 4th sequence will have theses voltages:

2.93v
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v


And then it comes back to the first sequence of 4 steps like this:

Sequence 1
2.96v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

Sequence 2
2.96v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

Sequence 3
2.96v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

Sequence 4
2.93v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

**REPEAT**

Sequence 1
2.96v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

Sequence 2
2.96v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

Sequence 3
2.96v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v

Sequence 4
2.93v *
0.55v
2.1v
1.8v




Actualy i think 2 of the 4 steps drifts but it's more apparent on the 4th step.
Thanks
andrewF
I see.
Kinda interesting it is on the 16th step, which means the 4029 is the likely culprit....even tho it has nothing to do with the CV out voltage levels.

Possibly it is sucking a bit more juice off +12V on this step, so the best thing to try is remove the two 10R resistors and replace them with links (I just drag a lump of solder to short the pads).
maaaks
FYI I tested a few different PLLs from different brands trying to cure my shy B0n0 and this one:

http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/CD74HC4046AE/? qs=sGAEpiMZZMuVnCuI0aQamH6cDHpNC2wbWIbCtdBL5Wg%3d

seems to work much better than the others.

ta!
trip
Interesting, thanks for suggesting that - my b0n0 is pretty quiet as well.

I used this ti chip: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pll-circuits/7091965/

I'll pick up some of those in my next mouser order and see if I get the same results.
andrewF
maaaks wrote:
FYI I tested a few different PLLs from different brands trying to cure my shy B0n0 and this one:

http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/CD74HC4046AE/? qs=sGAEpiMZZMuVnCuI0aQamH6cDHpNC2wbWIbCtdBL5Wg%3d

seems to work much better than the others.

ta!


It is a 74 series, max power voltage is 6V and the B0n0 runs on 12V.
Interesting that it works and hasn't died yet..tho I suspect it will kark it soon. You probably should get it out of there sooner rather than later.
maaaks
Oops! Good catch oops

Shame, given that it works better than the others hihi
trip
Gonna be building a FK1t soon, and I've got a bunch of nsl32 or vtl5c3 - any comments as to which I should try in the filter first?

I got them for about the same price (about 20c difference), so the cost isn't really a factor. Anyone built one of these with the xvive vactrols yet?
andrewF
trip wrote:
Gonna be building a FK1t soon, and I've got a bunch of nsl32 or vtl5c3 - any comments as to which I should try in the filter first?

I got them for about the same price (about 20c difference), so the cost isn't really a factor. Anyone built one of these with the xvive vactrols yet?


I haven't tried VTLs so feel free Mr. Green . Have built with NSL32, another obsolete NSL and diy vactrols, all sound good.

If you have the vers.2 PCB, don't forget to do the fix described in the build guide (added last week)
basicbasic
trip wrote:
Gonna be building a FK1t soon, and I've got a bunch of nsl32 or vtl5c3 - any comments as to which I should try in the filter first?

I got them for about the same price (about 20c difference), so the cost isn't really a factor. Anyone built one of these with the xvive vactrols yet?


I preferred faster vactrols in mine which ended up being the NSLs.
sanders
maaaks wrote:

Phase flange sounds incredible and using the matched fets from stompville.co.uk seems to have worked a treat


what FETs did you buy from them? I see a matched pair of J113-- guessing maybe that's the ticket?
sanders
Are there NLC front panel layouts available anywhere? I'd like to make aluminum front panels for a couple modules I plan to build. Right now I'm thinking about the 329 Phase Flange and the FKIT VCF.

Does anyone have layouts for these two in particular?
andrewF
sanders wrote:
Are there NLC front panel layouts available anywhere? I'd like to make aluminum front panels for a couple modules I plan to build. Right now I'm thinking about the 329 Phase Flange and the FKIT VCF.

Does anyone have layouts for these two in particular?


This thread has most of them. These days I put the panel template file up on my Data page along with the build guide.
andrewF
trip wrote:
Interesting, thanks for suggesting that - my b0n0 is pretty quiet as well.

I used this ti chip: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pll-circuits/7091965/

I'll pick up some of those in my next mouser order and see if I get the same results.


Regarding shy B0n0
My best one has ONsemi MC14046B, worst but still works well has a Texas Instr. (TI) chip.
Make sure you do the mod described in page 2 of the build guide.

also it is best to get it running by patching in your signal (pulse or square from a VCO is good).
Turn the two delay pots up high.
Turn PLL filter to 10
Turn courics to 0
I usually leave PLL>delay turned high all the time.

This should get it running at maximum shittiness. Wind back PLL filter pot and turn up Courics pot until you get the sounds you didn't think you ever wanted to hear but do now.
lasesentaysiete
andrewF wrote:
sanders wrote:
Are there NLC front panel layouts available anywhere? I'd like to make aluminum front panels for a couple modules I plan to build. Right now I'm thinking about the 329 Phase Flange and the FKIT VCF.

Does anyone have layouts for these two in particular?


This thread has most of them. These days I put the panel template file up on my Data page along with the build guide.


is the 329 panel file/layout available somewhere?
andrewF
lasesentaysiete wrote:
andrewF wrote:
sanders wrote:
Are there NLC front panel layouts available anywhere? I'd like to make aluminum front panels for a couple modules I plan to build. Right now I'm thinking about the 329 Phase Flange and the FKIT VCF.

Does anyone have layouts for these two in particular?


This thread has most of them. These days I put the panel template file up on my Data page along with the build guide.


is the 329 panel file/layout available somewhere?


here you go - 329phaser panel
lasesentaysiete
andrewF wrote:

here you go - 329phaser panel


much obliged thumbs up
ym2612
Recent successful builds: mixer, 2xLFO thumbs up

I'll be building an 8-bit Cipher soon. What signal do you recommend feeding to the Data input in order to make it act most like the Easel's random circuit? Noise?
andrewF
I usually just clock mine with one half of the dual LFO and the other half into data-1.
Data-2, if nothing is patched in, will feedback a signal that is the XOR of stages 1 and 8, this combined with the signal on data-1 gets things pretty unpredictable. The Buchla does something similar although the circuits are totally different.
appliancide
Had some fun using the 1050 MixSeq to switch between 3 CV sources and 4 trigger sources, while the 329 provided cartoon sounds.

[s]http://soundcloud.com/uglysound-electronics/nonlinearcircuits-1050- and-329[/s]

Embed seems to be goofy at the moment, so here's a link:

http://soundcloud.com/uglysound-electronics/nonlinearcircuits-1050-and -329
andrewF
appliancide wrote:
Had some fun using the 1050 MixSeq to switch between 3 CV sources and 4 trigger sources, while the 329 provided cartoon sounds.

[s]http://soundcloud.com/uglysound-electronics/nonlinearcircuits-1050- and-329[/s]

Embed seems to be goofy at the moment, so here's a link:

http://soundcloud.com/uglysound-electronics/nonlinearcircuits-1050-and -329


It's peanut butter jelly time! It's quite different! SlayerBadger!
ym2612
andrewF wrote:
I usually just clock mine with one half of the dual LFO and the other half into data-1.
Data-2, if nothing is patched in, will feedback a signal that is the XOR of stages 1 and 8, this combined with the signal on data-1 gets things pretty unpredictable. The Buchla does something similar although the circuits are totally different.


Upon comparing the schems, I saw that the Cipher leaves out the section on the 208 that makes sure it always starts up with at least one 1 in the register. Which makes sense, given that the data input has been opened up and the module seems intended for uses above and beyond what the 208 does.
ym2612
Finished the 8-bit Cipher last night. This is fun! The build went together more quickly than I expected, and having most of the parts laid out in rows made things pretty smooth. The module's a lot of fun, and now I see that having the open data input makes it a lot easier to be expressive with the random-ish-ness.

I really need to find some kind of proper tool for tightening those knurled nuts, though. My serrated pliers aren't doing the job.
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
Finished the 8-bit Cipher last night. This is fun! The build went together more quickly than I expected, and having most of the parts laid out in rows made things pretty smooth. The module's a lot of fun, and now I see that having the open data input makes it a lot easier to be expressive with the random-ish-ness.

I really need to find some kind of proper tool for tightening those knurled nuts, though. My serrated pliers aren't doing the job.


Good to hear. We built these in a DIY workshop, about 25 were built in one evening by people of various skill levels.

Anyway, knurled nut driver from Mouser, you need to file the tabs a little to fit most jacks but it is easy and takes a minute.
muffdiver
Just finished up the multiband distortion. Everything appears working but was not getting any thing from the inputs. Swapping out the bottom TL072 gave me some input but its still super super quiet. Also tried swapping out the 33k* and 47p passives. CV inputs work and I have had a lot of fun just feeding it cv inputs.

Any ideas on something else to check before I swap out the rest of the input passives?



andrewF
Sorry if this is too obvious, but do you have the Gain pots turned up?

You can listen to the signal coming from the input section by probing the via right next to the 33k* resistor. It should be approx 1/3 of the amplitude of the input signal.
Assuming everything is on the same power supply, you could just hold the tip of a patch-cable to this via, the other end plugged into your mixer/PA and have a listen.
muffdiver
Here is what the examination revealed. Input 2 seems to be behaving normally regarding the jack - 1/3 amplitude on each pin. Input 1 is outputting the full amplitude on one pin and nothing on the other.

The via next to 33k* is not outputting any signal.

Replaced Input 1 jack but same behavior.

-
muffdiver
dedup.
muffdiver
Changed out all 100k and 1uf for input and it's up and working now! Rockin' Banana!
andrewF
muffdiver wrote:
Changed out all 100k and 1uf for input and it's up and working now! Rockin' Banana!


Good stuff w00t
maaaks
Just putting together a FFChaos and just wondering how one determines the correct value for the RL resistors?

I've found these LED's knocking about http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/TT-Electronics/OVLFR3C7/?qs=%2fh a2pyFadugCGGzQFN9OiYrPTcqsQfkK21vGF2TQ0vXdSOO53lTECg%3d%3d

I'd normally try a few different values (as is my level of expertise) but one of them is positioned right underneath one of the jacks and I'd rather not have to desolder that.
indigoid
If the LEDs are just indicators and not a critical part of the circuit (like in the jerk chaos) maybe power it up without them and measure the voltage where the LED should be?

Then you can calculate correct Rled for your LEDs based on their datasheet
andrewF
maaaks wrote:
Just putting together a FFChaos and just wondering how one determines the correct value for the RL resistors?

I've found these LED's knocking about http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/TT-Electronics/OVLFR3C7/?qs=%2fh a2pyFadugCGGzQFN9OiYrPTcqsQfkK21vGF2TQ0vXdSOO53lTECg%3d%3d

I'd normally try a few different values (as is my level of expertise) but one of them is positioned right underneath one of the jacks and I'd rather not have to desolder that.


I test LEDs with a 12V power supply and a few resistors to see which gives the best brightness.
Those ones you linked will probably need 6k8-10k resistors. I have some green ultrabrights that require 22k resistors, at least they use very little current.
Those ones at Mouser are pretty expensive, Tayda have about the same thing for 2c each.
Even better is look for 'diffused' LEDs which don't double as eye-burning lasers. You can buy a bag of 100 off ebay for $1 or so.
hippasus
I built the B0N0 and is great fun. Thank you very much for sharing these awsome modules and ideas.
Is the "Brain Custard" available somewhere in EU?
[/img]
andrewF
hippasus wrote:
I built the B0N0 and is great fun. Thank you very much for sharing these awsome modules and ideas.
Is the "Brain Custard" available somewhere in EU?


Looks good, yep B0n0 has some character... zombie

You can order panels and PCBs directly from me, shipping is US$5 to send them as a regular airmail letter.
andrewF
I built a couple of b0n0s today. One of them was completely beserk before I even plugged in an input signal. after some investigation, I discovered 2 things:
1 - be careful the -12V power pins do not short against the input or delayCV sockets. I usually mount the PCB a few mm away from the sockets and trim the power connector pins quite short.

2 - It is extremely good to have the switching pin of the input jack tied to -12V, but do this via a 10k resistor, so you do not blow up all those sensitive digital modules razz

I have updated the build guide with this info and pics.



edit: added "switching pin of the"
hippasus
Nice mod, thank you.
AndrewF in the notes of B0N0 you said that you have been partly inspired by articles about chaos in pll circuits, do you happen to have the reference of the article?
andrewF
hippasus wrote:
Nice mod, thank you.
AndrewF in the notes of B0N0 you said that you have been partly inspired by articles about chaos in pll circuits, do you happen to have the reference of the article?

There was no one article that inspired the B0n0, more just the realisation that it can be done.
My Phd supervisor (and his supervisors) have worked on PLL chaos for a long time, this book and this book have chapters on PLLs.
Other ones with free access - white noise/chaos/PLL , chaos/bjt/pll , 3rd order PLL and multiband chaotic PLL.
there are plenty more on IEEE and IJBC (my fave - International Journal on Bifurcation and Chaos) but you have to pay or get access thru a subscribing institution.
flab
Can we may ask what was your field of study Andrews? Engineering?you still working on your PhD?
andrewF
flab wrote:
Can we may ask what was your field of study Andrews? Engineering?you still working on your PhD?

Yep - EE, my thesis was on memristor based chaotic circuits. Finished it in 2015.
flab
great effort, sounds clever, EE has so many choices, i hope you get to teaching , if you want to of course, take care
andrewF
flab wrote:
great effort, sounds clever, EE has so many choices, i hope you get to teaching , if you want to of course, take care


Thanks I did a few years teaching but now am pretty much done with academia. I'm still associated with Symbiotica for the cellF project but thats about it.
I much prefer staying home and working on circuits in my shed anyway w00t
ablearcher
I finally got around to doing the mod to the version 2 fk1t, sounds much better now! I'd been bummed about the lack of resonance before and, figuring I had a bad vactrol (electronics goldmine), left it in the drawer of failure for way too long.

One question though, when I turn up the "bright" knob it gets quite resonant but the resonance only follows "traveler 1" (the high pass), and not "traveler 2", is this correct behavior?
andrewF
ablearcher wrote:
I finally got around to doing the mod to the version 2 fk1t, sounds much better now! I'd been bummed about the lack of resonance before and, figuring I had a bad vactrol (electronics goldmine), left it in the drawer of failure for way too long.

One question though, when I turn up the "bright" knob it gets quite resonant but the resonance only follows "traveler 1" (the high pass), and not "traveler 2", is this correct behavior?

Yes - the original version has Q paths on each stage but these proved to be quite lame (they are still there, the 10u and 1k in series on each stage, feel free to reduce the 1k and see what you get).
after some mucking around the best result was, as usual, the simplest; feed the output back into the input.
ym2612
My Sauce of Unce noise outputs sound like this - lots of undesired noise mixed in. I'm going to assume this means there's a lot of EM radiation of some kind in my apartment building.

[s]https://soundcloud.com/ym2612/sauce-noise/s-OwoPc[/s]
ym2612
Just performed the suggested mod on my V2 FK1T - sounds great! thumbs up
indigoid
ym2612 wrote:
My Sauce of Unce noise outputs sound like this - lots of undesired noise mixed in. I'm going to assume this means there's a lot of EM radiation of some kind in my apartment building.


If it does that reliably when it's not in your building, I want to buy it!
synthcube
clarke robinson has been on a panel design tear of late--- six new designs for andrew's awesome modules!

two different knob styles shown, for illustrative purposes

enjoy






Jarno
Typo in the giant bono panel ("Delay Feeback" instead of "Delay Feedback").

great looking panels!
andrewF
They do look very nice

On the Numberwang, input '26' should be shinty-six (which is a real number). Depending upon your font, the shinty should either be an upside-down two or a five flipped left to right.

Also '8.4' should be '8-4'

Of course, being Numberwang, it doesn't really matter, probably.



'Freqency' on Doof is missing 'u'
slow_riot
love them!
trip
Great looking panels - would find it v. confusing to operate the numberwang without andrew's corrections tho
thelizard
Jarno wrote:
Typo in the giant bono panel ("Delay Feeback" instead of "Delay Feedback").

great looking panels!


Doof also says "Freqency" instead of "Frequency". EDIT: D'oh. Andrew caught it.

Still ordered a B0N0 so that I can finish my recent build! The 1050 Mix Seq with a Clarke panel is one of the nicest looking DIY builds in my system.
thelizard
FEEEEEEBACK

What an angry little module. Probably the noisiest, weirdest thing I've ever built. I kind of love it.

synthcube
love the build pic!!

we felt that "FEEBACK" was a more appropriate label than "FEEDBACK" given its linkage to ancient gods of chaos and fire...

... we opted, however, not to relabel "COURICS" to "KATIES"

meh meh meh
thelizard
Just finished building up an 8-Bit Cipher. Awesome module, but I'm experiencing one strange issue.

When the module first powers up, it will only accept gates from my 4ms QCD. It won't respond to almost any other module in my system. After I give it a gate from the QCD, it will then respond to every other module properly. I have to do this for each input. I've never seen anything like this. Any ideas?
andrewF
thelizard wrote:
Just finished building up an 8-Bit Cipher. Awesome module, but I'm experiencing one strange issue.

When the module first powers up, it will only accept gates from my 4ms QCD. It won't respond to almost any other module in my system. After I give it a gate from the QCD, it will then respond to every other module properly. I have to do this for each input. I've never seen anything like this. Any ideas?


Nothing springs to mind, have never heard of this happening before either.
The inputs are all standard comparators that will/should fire from any signal crossing 1V, same on all NLC modules.

Maybe check the module for grounding issues and the resistors & chips around the input sub-circuits. Tho it is strange it works normally after the initial hesitation.
thelizard
Thanks! It seems to just misbehave with Monome trigger outs. Not sure why. I'll keep looking for spots.

One question on the Chopper. The build manual is for version 1, but I have a version 2 PCB with updated value markings. Do I still need to add the jumper resistor or has that been taken care of with the board revision?
andrewF
thelizard wrote:


One question on the Chopper. The build manual is for version 1, but I have a version 2 PCB with updated value markings. Do I still need to add the jumper resistor or has that been taken care of with the board revision?


All the mods/fixes have been implemented on vers.2 PCBs, so no need.
Build guide updated
ym2612
Finished a Timbre tonight. Quick pleasant build, and it sounds great. One question, though: when I feed in a sine with both pots fully CCW, the sine comes out with a bit of a fat bottom. Is there a part I can tweak so that it's more symmetrical? This happens to both the output of a self-oscillating filter and the sine from my 258J.

andrewF
can't get there with the trimpot?
thelizard
Just finished my Chopper! It seems to work, but I had a question regarding the slew section.

I'm using the 100k pot option for Slew. The knob seems to behave opposite how I expect. The least amount of slew is at full clockwise. It makes sense if I think of it as a low-pass filter.

Also, it seems like the minimum amount of slew is still a ton of slew. Almost every audio signal above 100-200 Hz or so gets attenuated down to the point where it doesn't trigger the switching behavior (and almost no signal comes out of the Chop Slewy output).

It's pretty funny. I'm actually getting way more aggressive outputs with slow, simple LFOs.
andrewF
The slew section (and really the chopper itself) is designed for CV signals rather than audio.
It will work with audio but as you have found the slew pot flatlines it, so for audio, slew must be kept to zero or close to it.
Also the Chopper can have little hissy-fits here and there, I think you are finding them, they should be enjoyed.
thelizard
Thanks for the fast response! That makes sense then. I had the wrong idea from the manual's description of the slew pot.

Now that I'm approaching it differently, this thing is great. I have one hell of an unpredictability and chaos section going here.

andrewF
thelizard wrote:

...I have one hell of an unpredictability and chaos section going here.


Certainly do hihi
ym2612
andrewF wrote:
can't get there with the trimpot?


Tried the trimpot, tried swapping the 130k for a 100k, tried swapping the input and output gain resistors. I did manage to get a more controllable/nicer-sounding range on the fold (I'm using a 10vpp input signal), but still haven't totally got rid of the fat bottom. Still sounds great when folding, though.
andrewF
ym2612 wrote:
andrewF wrote:
can't get there with the trimpot?


Tried the trimpot, tried swapping the 130k for a 100k, tried swapping the input and output gain resistors. I did manage to get a more controllable/nicer-sounding range on the fold (I'm using a 10vpp input signal), but still haven't totally got rid of the fat bottom. Still sounds great when folding, though.


You could try going hard on attenuating the signal at the input then booting it up again at the output -



but the input signal is still passing thru the folding stages so will always be affected a little bit.
ym2612
Yep, did that - I settled on about 20k on the input and 220k on the output. I'll just have to accept a bit of flavoring on the unfolded signal, no problem. This is fun!
trip
The leds on my mixseq are retina burning bright, in mixer mode it can be seen from space. Is it the 8 10k resistors in that block around the leds to increase to dim them a bit?
andrewF
yes - highlighted

LEDs are getting pretty amazing, when I started in DIY, the std LED used 330R, then went to 1k, then 4k7. I have been using 10k for a while now, but last week I had to use 220k to get a green LED down to a tolerable brightness.

trip
Ended up using 75k for the blue ultrabrights on my mixseq. Had the same issue with green leds on my ffchaos, used 200k on that and they were still blinding!
mr.freeman
just built a BadumTiss, but as soon as I plug it in the upper 10k resistor blows up... what could be the cause? very frustrating
andrewF
mr.freeman wrote:
just built a BadumTiss, but as soon as I plug it in the upper 10k resistor blows up... what could be the cause? very frustrating


I hope you meant upper 10R resistor?

It is blowing because you have a short somewhere (power rail connected to ground), or possibly a chip in backwards. That is what the 10R resistors are there for, to burn up and die, when there is a short, and hopefully save the other components from getting damaged

Use a multi-meter to check if the power rail for the 10R that blows is shorted to ground, if so start looking for the error.
mr.freeman
andrewF wrote:
mr.freeman wrote:
just built a BadumTiss, but as soon as I plug it in the upper 10k resistor blows up... what could be the cause? very frustrating


I hope you meant upper 10R resistor?

It is blowing because you have a short somewhere (power rail connected to ground), or possibly a chip in backwards.

Use a multi-meter to check if the power rail for the 10R that blows is shorted to ground, if so start looking for the error.


yep sorry I meant 10r d'oh! I'll check for sure, thanks for the tip, I'm quite a noob
andrewF
It is good to always check the power rails are not shorted to ground or each other before turning on a new module for the 1st time. It only takes a few seconds with a multi-meter and saves a lot of repair work.
The other good final check is to make sure the chips are all in correctly.

These 2 actions will nearly always save your module from losing its magic smoke.
coldvvvave
Hello.

I have a bunch of matched 2n5457 pairs from small-bear. I've read somewhere that 2n5457 is relatively simiair to j112. Can I use those in the phaser instead of j112s?

Thanks.
andrewF
coldvvvave wrote:
Hello.

I have a bunch of matched 2n5457 pairs from small-bear. I've read somewhere that 2n5457 is relatively simiair to j112. Can I use those in the phaser instead of j112s?

Thanks.


I haven't tried but they look about right, so will say probably.

anyone?
mr.freeman
andrewF wrote:
It is good to always check the power rails are not shorted to ground or each other before turning on a new module for the 1st time. It only takes a few seconds with a multi-meter and saves a lot of repair work.
The other good final check is to make sure the chips are all in correctly.

These 2 actions will nearly always save your module from losing its magic smoke.


usually do that but, you know... I checked and 1st: the lm13700 was backwards. put it back right and again, another 10r blowed up, so checked the power rails are not shorted, checked the lm13700 and my meter bleeps when i test pins 3-14 and 6-11. did I blowed it up?
andrewF
Most likely, try removing the chip and then powering up the module. If the 10R doesn't blow, then the 13700 is the likely culprit
mr.freeman
andrewF wrote:
Most likely, try removing the chip and then powering up the module. If the 10R doesn't blow, then the 13700 is the likely culprit


I actually checked again and there's a short between the positive and negative rails, where should I look at now? the chip has been removed but id doesn't look like it's damaged, I've ordered another one anyway
andrewF
So with the 13700 removed, do you still get a 10R resistor burning on power up? If so, which one?

There are not really any places the power rails could short together other than the trimpot, but if you installed a 100k trimpot it should be fine.

Maybe post or pm, if you prefer, some close-up & clear photos of your build
trip
Brain custard + threeler. Can't remember what else was going on with these tbh, chaotica was involved somehow - but as to what capacity, your guess is as good as mine seriously, i just don't get it

[s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/filtered-chaos-net-1[/s]

[s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/filtered-chaos-net-2[/s]
andrewF
trip wrote:
Brain custard + threeler. Can't remember what else was going on with these tbh, chaotica was involved somehow - but as to what capacity, your guess is as good as mine seriously, i just don't get it

[s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/filtered-chaos-net-1[/s]

[s]https://soundcloud.com/tclutterbuck-1/filtered-chaos-net-2[/s]


thumbs up Both are wonderfully intense, would love to hear it live over a massive PA
trip
Got a few questions about matching fets for the 329, hopefully it'll help out fellow noobs intimidated by it!

Can I use a 9v battery as the power source for the schematic? Using the negative terminal of the battery as ground? Just to be sure - the 'outer' legs of the fet each have a 1m resistor connected to gnd, and a 15k resistor connected to v+, middle leg has a 33k connected to gnd, and I'm measuring the voltage across the two outer legs?

Cheers, sorry I don't know shit all about what I'm doing! seriously, i just don't get it
andrewF
maybe better to use Keen's improved JFet matcher, which runs on 9V.
trip
ignore: figured it out
trip
edit: ignore, figured it out
trip
I think I must be doing something wrong with the fet matcher, I've breadboarded up Keen's schematic - but I just get 3.73 for every single fet I put into it. Is there a way to test that I've got the circuit set up properly? Without the fet in the circuit, at the test point I get the vmid reading of around 4.22.

Edit: so I set up the schematic from the build doc with a 9v battery and got a range of 0.1mv - ~9.4mv in a batch of 30 fets. Does that sound right?
andrewF
trip wrote:
I think I must be doing something wrong with the fet matcher, I've breadboarded up Keen's schematic - but I just get 3.73 for every single fet I put into it. Is there a way to test that I've got the circuit set up properly? Without the fet in the circuit, at the test point I get the vmid reading of around 4.22.

Edit: so I set up the schematic from the build doc with a 9v battery and got a range of 0.1mv - ~9.4mv in a batch of 30 fets. Does that sound right?


Not really, Keen's notes state his FETs ranged: "Lowest: -1.342V. Highest: -2.72V"

What FETs are you testing?

you could always make life easier by buying one of these
trip
Cheers, I'll try one of those. I managed to get your schematic from the 329 build doc to work, but don't seem to have a very closely matched pair out of 25 fets.

In the meantime, I noticed in getting a lot of power supply noise on my multiband distortion - with nothing patched to its inputs I can hear anything high frequency that's coming from my other modules at its output. Also noticed that if I flexed the panel in the right spot I got a high frequency oscillation at the output. Any idea where this could be coming from? Immediate thought was the jacks above the power cable, but I checked and there doesn't seem to be a short there, I cut the pins right down to the pcb. I'll try taking the jacks off later to be sure.
andrewF
Usually when modules start sending signals to each other across the power rails, it means your PSU is being over-worked.
Tho not sure about flexing the panel.....does the sound come in slowly or is simply on/off - which means a short?
trip
hmm strange, I took everything out from my case apart from the mbd and an attenuverter - and still heard the noise out of the mbd change when I turned the knobs on the attenuverter, I guess from the leds on the attenuverter changing colour? fwiw this is running off 4ms row power on bus cables.

I took the jacks above the power pins off the mbd and still had the noise at the individual outs, although only really audible when dist / blend are fully open.

The oscillation was on/off, so definitely a short somewhere - maybe that's what's overworking the power supply? I'll keep looking.
thelizard
Just built two CEM3340s up and they sound fantastic thumbs up

For the calibration process, I understand that the 10k multi-turn is for 1v/oct calibration. What are the functions of the "PRESET" and "hi-frq" trimmers? What are the recommended settings for those?
andrewF
Congrats on your new VCOs!

Preset is to ensure your panel Coarse pot operates over its full range with no dead zones at either end.

Hi-frq is for tuning 1V/oct about 6+ octaves over the base frequency. Use the 10k multi for normal tuning, get that sorted, then start putting in 6V - 8V on the 1V/oct jacks and adjust hi-frq trim as necessary.
trip
Building the serious filter, BOM calls for 4 100n caps, but I can only see 3 on the silkscreen close to the opamp at the bottom of the pcb - am I just missing the last one?
Larrea
trip wrote:
Building the serious filter, BOM calls for 4 100n caps, but I can only see 3 on the silkscreen close to the opamp at the bottom of the pcb - am I just missing the last one?


I built this a couple of weeks ago. If I remember correctly, there was indeed an extra 100nf called for in the BOM, but not actually indicated on the board. I omitted it and the module worked perfectly first time...and since.
trip
Larrea wrote:
I built this a couple of weeks ago. If I remember correctly, there was indeed an extra 100nf called for in the BOM, but not actually indicated on the board. I omitted it and the module worked perfectly first time...and since.


Aye, built the rest up and it worked perfectly, sounds great!
trip
Squid Axon, Bools, Multiband Distortion, Serious filter, epoch twinpeak + 2 vcos to clock / feed the whole thing

[soundcloud url="https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/321729627" params="color=ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments= true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false" width="100%" height="166" iframe="true" /]
rhomnousia
So I purchased my online gf, Numberwang. She'll be here tomorrow and I was hoping to take advantage of Arrows free over night shipping. (even though i'm stuck in a conference all weekend confused)

Anywho, i'm a dumb software engineer who just barely is starting to get the hang of building modules, picking parts, and reading circuits/eagle files.

One thing that's still hard for me, is picking ICs. How do you guys determine which TL072 or BC847 to put in there? There's hundreds of variations.. I feel like theres a big secret that i missed out on, but i'd love to understand how to catch my own fish. Please halp?
indigoid
Re: buying parts: some tips for when you're trying to match things up with the BOM:

- read the datasheets! The first couple of pages should pretty much always be enough for BOM matching purposes

- check the package type carefully (SOIC, SO, SOT-23, etc)

- if it feels very expensive — especially with NLC builds — it's probably the wrong one (exception: be careful with analog switch ICs, like DG4xx, it's easy to get the wrong one)

- ask!

Happy building SlayerBadger!
rhomnousia
indigoid wrote:
Re: buying parts: some tips for when you're trying to match things up with the BOM:

- read the datasheets! The first couple of pages should pretty much always be enough for BOM matching purposes

- check the package type carefully (SOIC, SO, SOT-23, etc)

- if it feels very expensive — especially with NLC builds — it's probably the wrong one (exception: be careful with analog switch ICs, like DG4xx, it's easy to get the wrong one)

- ask!

Happy building SlayerBadger!


I should have checked the panel i ordered more carefully. Looks like i'll be building a Wangernumb and a Numberwang grin.
s'mores
rhomnousia wrote:
So I purchased my online gf, Numberwang. She'll be here tomorrow and I was hoping to take advantage of Arrows free over night shipping. (even though i'm stuck in a conference all weekend confused)

Anywho, i'm a dumb software engineer who just barely is starting to get the hang of building modules, picking parts, and reading circuits/eagle files.

One thing that's still hard for me, is picking ICs. How do you guys determine which TL072 or BC847 to put in there? There's hundreds of variations.. I feel like theres a big secret that i missed out on, but i'd love to understand how to catch my own fish. Please halp?


My general rule of thumb is to pick the cheapest version that matches the pinout of whatever I'm building. For TL0XX parts I think it's usually the CN variant (don't quote me on this!) Higher-performance versions are almost always unnecessary in synth applications (we're not running anything at extreme temperatures, speeds in the MHZ range, etc). For NLC builds, you can get 99% of your parts from Tayda. Since they usually only stock one variant of a certain part, you don't have to do the legwork of finding the appropriate version.
rhomnousia
Quote:


My general rule of thumb is to pick the cheapest version that matches the pinout of whatever I'm building. For TL0XX parts I think it's usually the CN variant (don't quote me on this!) Higher-performance versions are almost always unnecessary in synth applications (we're not running anything at extreme temperatures, speeds in the MHZ range, etc). For NLC builds, you can get 99% of your parts from Tayda. Since they usually only stock one variant of a certain part, you don't have to do the legwork of finding the appropriate version.


That's a great point. I need to start getting used to understanding all of the pinouts. I'm kind of in that "build what i'm told" mode, but I really want to get to the point where I can design my own modules. Datasheets have been very helpful so far, i'd be doomed without them.

While i'm building some of the really complex modules, i almost have to blank out and ignore my ignorance. But once I'm working on some more of the simpler modules, I try to slow down and understand what's going on. NLC modules are definitely going to be getting their own 2 Rows, as I'm learning way more on these builds than I have elsewhere.

I need to get setup with some sort of testing flow, and learn how to use this oscilloscope more.
s'mores
brain custard
Larrea
s'mores wrote:
brain custard


Nice.

I've had fun self-patching it as well.

Do you have a CV Brain Custard? The two together is wonderful.

I like your stamped panels. Very cool.

I'm curious if your power panel is the top end of the NLC PSU. I've already built one of the PSUs, but plan to install another in a case with a 4hp panel for the AC in socket, power switch, and indicator--like you did.
s'mores
Larrea wrote:
Nice.

I've had fun self-patching it as well.

Do you have a CV Brain Custard? The two together is wonderful.

I like your stamped panels. Very cool.

I'm curious if your power panel is the top end of the NLC PSU. I've already built one of the PSUs, but plan to install another in a case with a 4hp panel for the AC in socket, power switch, and indicator--like you did.


Thanks! I liked the panels at first but drilling, stamping, and infilling is getting tiresome. When I've got time I'd like to get some 4U panels made for a few of my favorite modules. The power supply is my own design using a DC/DC +/-12v converter
s'mores
Also yeah I want to build a few more brain custards with different cap values! I've got a bunch of vactrols sitting around, would be really interesting to add cv...
trip
The leds on my Triad are retina burning bright - is there any way to dim them without affecting the envelope circuit?
andrewF
The 1k and 4k7 resistors are in series and act as a voltage divider to give you approx 7V envelopes, they also have dual duties as current limiters for the LEDs.

So you need to work out what is a suitable resistance to get the LEDs at a brightness you like, then divide that resisance into approx 4:1 ratio.
So if you need 10k, install maybe 2k2 and 8k2 in place of the 1k and 4k7 resistors respectively.
trip
Cheers, I'll try aiming for 100k with 22k and 82k - these leds are bright as fuck Dead Banana

I might try swapping out the elcos for smaller values while I'm at it, generally want to use it for shorter envelopes and find I'm only using the first 1/4 of the pot for attack and decay. Any harm in swapping the 22u for 10u?
andrewF
No problem with using a smaller cap.

100k might be a bit much....try it and see I suppose, otherwise install less brutal LEDs
nigel
trip wrote:
Cheers, I'll try aiming for 100k with 22k and 82k - these leds are bright as fuck Dead Banana


I'm a compulsive educator, so I'll expand on Andrew's reply:

The voltage produced at the top of the divider is (I guess) somewhere just under 9V. Putting it through the 1k::4k7 divider gives you 4/5 of that at the output jack, which is about 7V.
Changing the divider to 22k::82k makes no difference if you just measure the unconnected module. However, when you plug the output into another module, with a typical 100k resistor at the input, that 100k is effectively in parallel with the 82k. 100k and 82k in parallel gives you 45k. So your voltage divider is now 22k and 45k, which gives you 2/3 of (slightly less than) 9V at the output jack, or something less than 6V.
(Using the much smaller resistors means that the other module's input makes much less difference.)

This may or may not matter to you.
trip
Cheers fellas, I'll get some dimmer leds - these are still very bright even with the 82k resistor, and I've yet to measure conclusively, but it seems you're right that the envelope output is lower that measured when plugged into another module.
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