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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

[ORDER] ZeroScope, 6hp scope that's almost not even there
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 12, 13, 14, 15, 16  Next [all]
Author [ORDER] ZeroScope, 6hp scope that's almost not even there
av500
sockmonkey wrote:
I built my ZeroScope a while back and it mostly works. However, I was using it recently to visualize some trigger outputs and found it missing a number of (reasonably wide, 30ms) trigger signals. And then I noticed that the trigger function isn't working at all, neither from CH1 nor from the external input. So I need to put this back on the bench. Where should I be looking in the schematic as a starting point?

Thanks, Jeremy


if you can see a signal on CH1, then you can also trigger with it, since that is done in software. what is the trigger mode you are running in? press the top encoder and check the trigger settings (TRG) in the menu. is it set to "off" by chance?
sockmonkey
Nope, I've switched between the different modes and tried all of them, as well as setting different trigger signal levels. I am not getting typical trigger behavior, though -- the signal simply continues to scroll across the display without regard for the trigger mode/level/horizontal trigger point.
av500
well, this is strange, since the trigger for CH1 is done in software after the AD conversion.

can you long press the lower encoder to freeze the display and send a screenshot?
av500
what timebase are you using? 100ms/div and slower is a "rolling mode" with no triggering indeed
sockmonkey
Thanks, that explains the lack of trigger. At faster modes, trigger is working. I don't think that's in the manual.

As for the missed pulses, is there anything in hardware which would explain that?
av500
sockmonkey wrote:
Thanks, that explains the lack of trigger. At faster modes, trigger is working. I don't think that's in the manual.

As for the missed pulses, is there anything in hardware which would explain that?


I just tried with 10ms pulses, I can see them trigger and display nicely in 50ms/div and I can also see them in the rolling 100ms/div mode.

same with putting the same signal to EXT trigger input.

even if you cannot trigger, can you see these 30ms signals show on the display?
sockmonkey
Some of them, some of them get missed. I'm testing a burst generator and I'm only seeing ~50% of the ratcheted trigger outputs. I can hear them and see them fine on my Rigol oscilloscope.
av500
sockmonkey wrote:
Some of them, some of them get missed. I'm testing a burst generator and I'm only seeing ~50% of the ratcheted trigger outputs. I can hear them and see them fine on my Rigol oscilloscope.


erm, if they are 0-5V signals, can you raise the trigger level a bit up from 0?
sockmonkey
As I wrote above, I've experimented with the trigger level -- I know how to use an oscilloscope! :-)

Anyway, forget the trigger -- as you explained, the trigger mode doesn't work at longer time scales, and I can accept that. I am seeing a functioning trigger mode at faster time scales, so that's cool.

I am not seeing ~50% of incoming clock pulses on either input. Which 50% is variable (I'm looking at a repeating group of 8 pulses, for instance, and it's variable whether 2,4,6,7 are missing or 1,3,4,5 or whatever). The clock pulses being ~30ms wide and ~0-10V.
bcnx
Hi,

the acrylic screen takes a bit away of the nice outlook of the module. Is it really necessary?

cheers,

BC
av500
bcnx wrote:
Hi,

the acrylic screen takes a bit away of the nice outlook of the module. Is it really necessary?

cheers,

BC


up to you. don't throw sharp objects at it smile
dujoducom
I just ordered a "partial kit" from Modular Addict before checking what version it was... the photo in the PCB says v1.0, but maybe it's just an old photo. Out of curiosity in case I end up with a v1, what is the difference between 1.0 and 1.3?
av500
dujoducom wrote:
I just ordered a "partial kit" from Modular Addict before checking what version it was... the photo in the PCB says v1.0, but maybe it's just an old photo. Out of curiosity in case I end up with a v1, what is the difference between 1.0 and 1.3?


yeah it's most likely an old photo, all recent PCBs are v1.3. functionally there are no differences
spoor
I've built 2 - one works perfectly - am really pleased - a very satisfying build.

On the other one: I can't get Dual / Single / X/Y to work (Freq is fine). I get a 'T?' error bottom left, and each channel has a flat line in mid position at anything below 100ms. At 100ms and above, the flat lines shift to just above the 3rd grid line, but that's it.

Anything obvious that I'm missing? (So far I've only re-flowed and checked for bridges)
av500
spoor wrote:
I've built 2 - one works perfectly - am really pleased - a very satisfying build.

On the other one: I can't get Dual / Single / X/Y to work (Freq is fine). I get a 'T?' error bottom left, and each channel has a flat line in mid position at anything below 100ms. At 100ms and above, the flat lines shift to just above the 3rd grid line, but that's it.

Anything obvious that I'm missing? (So far I've only re-flowed and checked for bridges)


T? means there is no trigger detected. looks to me like the analog input channels are not working. if you have a scope you could check the signal at the output of the opamp, R2 and R4 (pads facing the opamp) can easily be accessed from the side even with the jacks PCB mounted. also check the polarity of D2 and the voltage at R13/C3 should read -2.5V

if you just plug a cable into CH1 and CH2, the voltage at R2 and R4 should be around 1.65V
spoor
Great - thanks for the pointers. (might take a while for me to get to this, as I've got other backlog in progress...)
av500
spoor wrote:
Great - thanks for the pointers. (might take a while for me to get to this, as I've got other backlog in progress...)


for a first quick test you might swap the jack boards between the two. just to make sure the signal isn't shorted out there already...
GSE
Just built one of these and it came out great. My first SMD build, thanks to years of soldering. And practicing first by removing/placing components on an obsolete modem board. This thread helped the build go very smoothly, no issues. I LIKE the plexiglass, gives it a military tech look.
av500
GSE wrote:
Just built one of these and it came out great. My first SMD build, thanks to years of soldering. And practicing first by removing/placing components on an obsolete modem board. This thread helped the build go very smoothly, no issues. I LIKE the plexiglass, gives it a military tech look.


that's great, enjoy! smile
spoor
av500 wrote:

T? means there is no trigger detected. looks to me like the analog input channels are not working. if you have a scope you could check the signal at the output of the opamp, R2 and R4 (pads facing the opamp) can easily be accessed from the side even with the jacks PCB mounted. also check the polarity of D2 and the voltage at R13/C3 should read -2.5V

if you just plug a cable into CH1 and CH2, the voltage at R2 and R4 should be around 1.65V


Well, I'm now the proud parent of 2 working ZeroScopes. I tried and failed all the voltage tests above (was getting 0v), so re-flowed again at all of those points, and it now works! I'm not sure which bit fixed it, but the joint on D2 looked a bit suspect / dull.

Thanks again - I'm feeling very pleased - I look forward to doing more of your projects.
pppier
[quote="av500"
what you can do is to check that GND and VCC show 0 and 3.3V and if you have a scope - I mean, you have a scope, but this one cant be used to measure itself smile then you can check that the signals on D0, D1, DC and CS look OK.[/quote]


I built 2 zeroscopes. one is ok love (av500 thank you)
but one (I'm trying the 1,3" display) make an error
checking signals at display pins I measure 6,4V at VCC, D1, RES DC and CS instead of 3,3.
(VDDA on the board is 3,3; IC5 put is -2,5V as it should, signals at Debug pins seems tha same between the 2 boards. also IC1 gives me 0; 3,3 ad 3,3)

It's like the CPU gives 6,5V instead of 3,3 but I don't understand why (it is correctly feeded if I understand... seriously, i just don't get it ).
I hope to solve and it can be useful for someone else.
is there something I can check?
av500
pppier wrote:

I hope to solve and it can be useful for someone else.
is there something I can check?


hmm, 1.3", I never tried that - but let's see:



I would say it looks the same here. some Googling says there are two different controller chips, the 0.96 uses SSD1306 (and that's what the ZeroScope supports) and many 1.3" use SH1106....
antf4rm
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(
av500
antf4rm wrote:
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(


hard to diagnose from here, but a high res photo of the backside might ive a clue
antf4rm
av500 wrote:
antf4rm wrote:
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(


hard to diagnose from here, but a high res photo of the backside might ive a clue


Here's that photo. I removed the 3.3 regulator for replacement as i think it got fried in whatever happened when i plugged a signal into the trigger input. Any insight is appreciated.

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