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[ORDER] ZeroScope, 6hp scope that's almost not even there
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Author [ORDER] ZeroScope, 6hp scope that's almost not even there
av500
ordering information below

ZeroScope, the 6hp dual channel oscilloscope for your Eurorack.

-10V to 10V, 100ms/div to 10 us/div. single, dual, X-Y, frequency measurement and tuner.









Ordering Information:

- complete ZeroScope module: €180 + shipping

- DIY PCB set with CPU soldered and programmed, including SMT headers to connect the PCBs, 2 plastic washers for the encoders, laser cut acrylic screen and matching screws in M2.5 and M3: €35 + shipping

payment via PayPal or EU bank transfer in Euro, please email me for orders at: vp (at) vpme (dot) de

shipping for the PCB set is €7 worldwide as a registered letter, €5 inside Germany. shipping for the fully built module depends on where you are.



Mouser cart: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=f758 dfd583

missing are knobs and jacks, get them from the usual suspects. the encoders are D-type shafts, but push on round knobs should work too.

for the display, search eBay or Aliexpress for "0.96 OLED 128x64 SPI" and check that it is the white, 7 pin version, they should look like this:



make sure it's the single color WHITE (or BLUE) version, there are also some two color BLUE/YELLOW ones that you don't want.

(NOTE: in order to see the attached documents, you need to be logged in to muffwiggler.com) - or use this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ByXqLcOF-aBURThiVGlPVVdOOHc
xbted
are you freaking kidding me? that's just awesome!
av500
xbted wrote:
are you freaking kidding me? that's just awesome!


yeah, I know. the shadows look fake hihi hihi hihi

no, it's real It's peanut butter jelly time!
PWM
My interest is checked. smile
glitchpop
Nice! I'm interested too
mr.sibs
Really cool!
av500
update: pics added
latigid on
These are great and cheap displays, super crisp! There's four on the MIDIbox CV v2.

I wonder if the pins need a bit of insulation? Can't help but think they wouldn't be too happy with a stray cable carrying a 12V squarewave.
av500
latigid on wrote:
These are great and cheap displays, super crisp! There's four on the MIDIbox CV v2.

I wonder if the pins need a bit of insulation? Can't help but think they wouldn't be too happy with a stray cable carrying a 12V squarewave.


ah well, I like to live dangerously Dead Banana yes, might be good to add that, but I'll leave that as an exercise for the reader

Altitude909
Very cool!

Couple of suggestions: Find an OLED that's available widely (I.e. stocked by someone) That looks like the 1.3" one Mxmxmx used on the O_C and some other modules, impossible to find one now (I've been trying for the last few months). I would almost say find the bare displays and make your own PCBs for them, the few 1.3" ones out there now all have different pinouts. Wisechip makes the parts and you can usually source them through their dealers (just ordered some from First-components). If you can solder a 0603 chip, you can solder the display.

I would also never expose the display like that, the glass corners at the bottom are not supported by anything and snap easily. They contain the tiny wires in the black epoxy and if you break it, the display can go into the trash.
av500
Altitude909 wrote:
Very cool!

Couple of suggestions: Find an OLED that's available widely (I.e. stocked by someone) That looks like the 1.3" one Mxmxmx used on the O_C and some other modules, impossible to find one now (I've been trying for the last few months).


this is the 7-pin version of the SPI OLED displays that are all over eBay or Aliexpress:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-96-I2C-IIC-SPI-Serial-128X64-White-OLED-LCD- LED-Display-Module-for-Arduino-/172070682655

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-0-96-blue-0-96-inch-OLED- module-New-128X64-OLED-LCD-LED-Display/32595649930.html

there are also 6 pin SPI versions, we might offer both pinouts. the I2C version won't work at all as I2C is way too slow to update the display

Altitude909 wrote:
I would almost say find the bare displays and make your own PCBs for them, the few 1.3" ones out there now all have different pinouts. Wisechip makes the parts and you can usually source them through their dealers (just ordered some from First-components). If you can solder a 0603 chip, you can solder the display.


in fact that display there I did solder to the carrier PCB since I bought them separately in China. the idea was to make a PCB that can be populated easily with a display that is available to order for the hobbyist.

Altitude909 wrote:

I would also never expose the display like that, the glass corners at the bottom are not supported by anything and snap easily. They contain the tiny wires in the black epoxy and if you break it, the display can go into the trash.


well, that's only $5-7 down the trash, but point taken. we did not want to make the module wider and do some complex behind the panel mounting...
BugBrand
You could possibly do a 3d-printed little box that fits over the OLED & holding PCB - protecting the glass corners and hiding the pins. Possibly you'd need the module title text shifted slightly but otherwise could probably be done without changing anything much.

[disclosure - I know diddly about such things!]
av500
BugBrand wrote:
You could possibly do a 3d-printed little box that fits over the OLED & holding PCB - protecting the glass corners and hiding the pins. Possibly you'd need the module title text shifted slightly but otherwise could probably be done without changing anything much.

[disclosure - I know diddly about such things!]


yes, that's an option. I have another idea, but I need to try it out first.
euromorcego
Interesting!

av500 wrote:

this is not the final version, I think we will switch 0603 to 0805 to make it easier to solder. mayb also a little mounting PCB for jacks and encoders...

yes, 0805 instead of 0603 would be very much appreciated (the small sizes is what keeps me from doing the euclidean sequencer, 0603 is just too much).

Is the scope related to the Gabotronics Xprotolab? The latter is only $49 soldered and with display and everything. Won't fit in 6hp, but 8 hp should be fine.
av500
euromorcego wrote:
Interesting!
Is the scope related to the Gabotronics Xprotolab? The latter is only $49 soldered and with display and everything. Won't fit in 6hp, but 8 hp should be fine.


no relation to the Xprotolab, this is a standalone development between a coworker and myself.
fma
Im in, just so I can solder more SMD's! Also, AV I really like your cloth? covered cables. Where do you get the wire?
av500
fma wrote:
Im in, just so I can solder more SMD's! Also, AV I really like your cloth? covered cables. Where do you get the wire?


I buy these on AliExpress: http://s.aliexpress.com/jm2qEr67
(just an example)

then I cut them in half and solder a mono plug, connecting ground and ring from the stereo end to ground of the mono end. and I add about three layers of shrink tubing in the process. yields a dirt cheap 50cm cable that's very soft and doesn't curl around all over the place...
geecen
This looks really amazing! I'll be following its progress for sure.
spneca
I am interested.
fma
Thanks AV. Slight hijack!

What Guage are those? I always have dreams of buying a couple rolls of these http://www.colorcord.com/collections/solid (which I have done, but for light fixtures in the house) but I figured 18g is a bit to thick for modular shenanigans.

The smallest I have been able to find is http://www.sundialwire.com/22-gauge.aspx 22g, bit it doesnt have the color range that I thinkwould be cool in organizing by length.
masterofstuff124
Ooo this one looks great. And DIY! Count me in!
av500
one visit to the laser cutter later:



I do like the smell of burnt acrylic in the evening!
latigid on
thumbs up was thinking of something like that. Could even use the M2 holes and save the top ones for case mounting.
sammy123
Interested for sure!!
av500
fma wrote:
Thanks AV. Slight hijack!

What Guage are those? I always have dreams of buying a couple rolls of these http://www.colorcord.com/collections/solid (which I have done, but for light fixtures in the house) but I figured 18g is a bit to thick for modular shenanigans.

The smallest I have been able to find is http://www.sundialwire.com/22-gauge.aspx 22g, bit it doesnt have the color range that I thinkwould be cool in organizing by length.


the cable is about 2.5mm thick, I would guess around 2mm for the core without the braid, see here:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/+VladimirPantelic/posts/SgD1cvDei52

the actual cable strands are really thin and are like these headphone cables made from enameled copper wire.

these are the latest ones I ordered: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-7pcs-lot-3-5mm-Audio-Aux- Male-Stereo-Woven-Fabric-Braided-Cable-Pc-for/1921248033.html

one can also buy the sleeving, but I have no idea how easy that is to apply: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Good-Quality-10M-2-5mm-Sheathing-Auto-W ire-Harnessing-Skyblue-Braided-Cable-Sleeving/32545634068.html
av500
latigid on wrote:
thumbs up was thinking of something like that. Could even use the M2 holes and save the top ones for case mounting.


the top holes are still used for mounting and the larger cover fixed to the top with the spacer blocks is much more rigid than adding it to the display itself
boops
Really Nice.... applause

Is it possible to use à bigger spi oled( If it s available)? Without changing your original os ?
midirobot
cool!!
interested too!!
av500
boops wrote:
Really Nice.... applause

Is it possible to use à bigger spi oled( If it s available)? Without changing your original os ?


not with the current CPU since it has only 4k and thus not much space to hold the display memory.
latigid on
av500 wrote:
boops wrote:
Really Nice.... applause

Is it possible to use à bigger spi oled( If it s available)? Without changing your original os ?


not with the current CPU since it has only 4k and thus not much space to hold the display memory.



I think this one using the same controller would work:

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/serial-spi-1-3-inch-128x64-oled-disp lay-module-ssd1306-white-on-black

but it's the same resolution on a larger screen = grainier appearance.
av500
latigid on wrote:
av500 wrote:
boops wrote:
Really Nice.... applause

Is it possible to use à bigger spi oled( If it s available)? Without changing your original os ?


not with the current CPU since it has only 4k and thus not much space to hold the display memory.



I think this one using the same controller would work:

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/serial-spi-1-3-inch-128x64-oled-disp lay-module-ssd1306-white-on-black

but it's the same resolution on a larger screen = grainier appearance.


yes, that one should work indeed. you just need a matching carrier PCB
peloazul
This looks super! Very interested!
qfactor
Any price range for it yet?
Pre-made, kit or pcb/panel only prices? grin
av500
qfactor wrote:
Any price range for it yet?
Pre-made, kit or pcb/panel only prices? grin


we need to scope that out smile
jayhurst
I'd be interested for sure if a full kit was available. I'm even interested enough that I'm actually willing to try SMD for the first time.
Sandrine
I totally want this!
And I already have one of those exact OLED I've been trying to decide what to do with. I can wait for the kit though too applause
spotta
Up for a board thumbs up
lintfresh
100% in! Looks ace!
antf4rm
Interested! Very nice !
ambrohski
av500, you are at it again- love

the Euclidean Circles is killing me that it's not built yet (waiting on LEDs), but I am definately interested in this one! Clap [/b]
av500
ambrohski wrote:
av500, you are at it again- love

the Euclidean Circles is killing me that it's not built yet (waiting on LEDs), but I am definately interested in this one! Clap [/b]


this one is easier, somebody already soldered all the OLED pixels to the display smile
hsimonis
definitely interested! applause

Helmut
ambrohski
av500 wrote:

this one is easier, somebody already soldered all the OLED pixels to the display smile


hihi
robmozart
Can't wait to see more of this
GryphonP3
Looks immense! Would also be into this just to get a bit of SMT soldering chops as well, and have a sick scope to show for it smile looks less intimidating than a lot of the more SMT based modules out there.
av500
I changed the SMT parts from 0603 to 0805 to make it even more easy to solder.

working on finalizing the software these days. hopefully will order the first batch of "production" PCBs soon

bear with me smile
sicpaul
av500 wrote:
I changed the SMT parts from 0603 to 0805 to make it even more easy to solder.


after soldering 1 of 2 Euclidean PCBs and still waiting for 1 part, this announcement sounds like holidays for my eyes..... love

take your time cool

and shurely i'm very much interested to get 1 or 2 of this lovely scopes into my rack applause
funkyjunky
would be great to see the scope reacting on the lfo and envelope sources
av500
funkyjunky wrote:
would be great to see the scope reacting on the lfo and envelope sources


I improved the update speed for the long timebases, it's much better now than in the 2nd video. I'll make a new vid soon.
Zaibach
Definitely interested in one, or maybe two applause
fitzgreyve
Interested in a PCB.
GryphonP3
Really looking forward to this now that I've gotten some SMT experience under my belt smile Is it going to require any chip flashing? Still haven't quite gotten my mind around how to do anything software related in DIY land, but I guess I've gotta get it learned for something eventually! Anyway, very excited for this scope SlayerBadger! Looks absolutely phenomenal!
Multi Grooves
Tentatively raises hand of interest.

Just looking at the O'tool and found this.

I have basic soldering skills. Is this something I should be able to handle?
av500
GryphonP3 wrote:
Really looking forward to this now that I've gotten some SMT experience under my belt smile Is it going to require any chip flashing? Still haven't quite gotten my mind around how to do anything software related in DIY land, but I guess I've gotta get it learned for something eventually! Anyway, very excited for this scope SlayerBadger! Looks absolutely phenomenal!


no flashing needed, PCBs will come with the CPU presoldered and preprogrammed.
av500
Multi Grooves wrote:
Tentatively raises hand of interest.

Just looking at the O'tool and found this.

I have basic soldering skills. Is this something I should be able to handle?


it's mostly surface mount (SMT) parts, so not a beginners project. I changed all the parts to 0805 which I find quite easy to solder, but I have no idea how good your soldering skills are.

PCBs with all SMT parts soldered will also be available
yan6
In for one for sure, but most likely two thumbs up great work!
av500
yan6 wrote:
In for one for sure, but most likely two thumbs up great work!


best practice is one per rack row smile
yan6
Yikes, in that case i'll need six cry


just kidding Mr. Green
av500
yan6 wrote:
Yikes, in that case i'll need six cry


just kidding Mr. Green


one in every other row will do in a pinch smile screaming goo yo
esmeets
Awesome!!
av500
this is happening! stay tuned!

Zaibach
Rockin' Banana! Awesome!
oldenjon
I'm in thumbs up
Any chance this project be open source? I would love to fit one of these into my 4U system.
Barcode
Cool! Put me down for one.
stringsthings
Interested in one. ( Maybe two )
sammy123
I'm still interested in 1. Thanks.
av500
first build from the "prod" batch, now it's 1.5 PCBs smile



yan6
Those are absolutely boss thumbs up i like the plexiglass screen protector, very stylish
xbted
After the lovely euclidian circles, I`m definitely excited about this. I want one badly.
fusionid
want need Rockin' Banana!
Sammus
Also keen!
Luap
I'm in! When when!? hyper
sceledra
I'm interested.
TheDegenerateElite
I am definitely interested in one as well.
av500
now with added frequency measurement on the "External Trigger" input, on the next PCB revision I will normalize that to channel 1 so you don't need an extra cable.

The chip runs from an internal RC oscillator, so it's not 100% accurate, but I added a trim value so you can tune it for your current room temperature. then it should be accurate to within one cent up to a few kHz.

anyway, this is a freebie, so don't sue me if your songs are not in tune smile

Luap
AV500, That looks great. Im looking forward to it cool
av500
CALL TO ACTION:

I need a beta tester for the ZeroScope. it should be somebody in or close to Germany (thus EU based) and somebody who can use a computer to update the software if needed. I would provide the STM32 debug adapter needed and instructions on how to perform the update with Linux (or Windows) - sorry I have no Mac knowledge.

PM or mail me if you are interested.
antf4rm
I'll do it. I have win xp and some experience with uploading to an stm32f because of midi box.org. I've successfully built almost 70 unique modules at this point. Chicago is close to Germany right?
av500
antf4rm wrote:
I'll do it. I have win xp and some experience with uploading to an stm32f because of midi box.org. I've successfully built almost 70 unique modules at this point. Chicago is close to Germany right?


I'm close to Frankfurt, but not to Frankfort, Illinois :(
av500
Thank you all for your kind offers to help, I have a tester in Germany and one ZeroScope is already in the mail. I'm looking forward to get feedback.
TechForze
Hi, any news on this?
av500
TechForze wrote:
Hi, any news on this?


yes, my trusty tester is thoroughly testing it as we speak. needs a few more firmware tweaks, then it's good to go!
Drillionaire
Definitely interested in one! Possibly two. screaming goo yo
Dimitree
I'm interested, but I was wondering if it is open source.. I'd like to modify the firmware to remove the dots grid for example..
av500
Dimitree wrote:
I'm interested, but I was wondering if it is open source.. I'd like to modify the firmware to remove the dots grid for example..


no decision on open source yet, but I'll add that feature smile
av500
quick update: firmware is nearing completion so I expect to be able to offer the first PCB sets or modules soon.

also, stackables make awesome probe leads for the ZeroScope, leave them plugged in at the scope and swap them in quickly wherever you need to check a signal:

Shoggoth
Gonna keep my eye on this project. Looks awesome!
TechForze
Very nice!!
yan6
hyper any updates
BARE BONES
One set please! smile
av500
final touches on the firmware, now with chromatic tuner:

qfactor
av500 wrote:
final touches on the firmware, now with chromatic


Will this be in kit form or pre-built?
nevetsokyeron
Very excite.

I'm in for one PCB set for sure.
Escapegoat
Sign me up! smile
Crashlander42
Damnit. Tuner may have sold me.
elcoco
Wow this is a great project, so super interested. Rockin' Banana! Rockin' Banana!
av500
qfactor wrote:
av500 wrote:
final touches on the firmware, now with chromatic


Will this be in kit form or pre-built?


PCB set with CPU soldered. fully built. prebuilt SMT maybe if there is interest.
Addam
PCBs with main IC and SMT presoldered would interest me.
Jondue
Nice!! Throw my name on the "very interested" heap It's peanut butter jelly time!
av500
the LazerShark has been busy:

fluffymuff
Very interested in a PCB + Panel + soldered MCU set (maybe 2)

Great work!
hippasus
Yes how to get it? Is there an ordering list or website or ...?
I am also interested in one.
av500
added BOM/Build Guide/User Manual in the first post. Ordering information to follow.

daynehacks
excited about this!
sicpaul
After reading the manual watering my mouth, i ordered parts for two sets. now awaiting the go for orders hihi
Excellent work applause
random:user
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause
av500
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


yeah, I'll try to make a Mouser basket, but don't sue me over it - I never shop there...
TechForze
I'm ready for 2 PCBs!
random:user
av500 wrote:
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


yeah, I'll try to make a Mouser basket, but don't sue me over it - I never shop there...


Thanks for the quick reply and your effort. I was checking out the 4hp thread and saw a link to a mouser basket there. So i thought lets build that one too and make the order count.
I usually get my stuff at reichelt, since i actually find what i am looking for.
Which one is your favorite?

BTW ...if there is any missing or wrong parts, expect to hear from my lawyer:

av500
random:user wrote:
av500 wrote:
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


yeah, I'll try to make a Mouser basket, but don't sue me over it - I never shop there...


Thanks for the quick reply and your effort. I was checking out the 4hp thread and saw a link to a mouser basket there. So i thought lets build that one too and make the order count.
I usually get my stuff at reichelt, since i actually find what i am looking for.
Which one is your favorite?


depends, Reichelt mostly, but also Conrad, TME, RS, Ali and Taobao smile
grizzle
I'm in for a pcb + panel!
random:user
av500 wrote:
random:user wrote:
av500 wrote:
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


yeah, I'll try to make a Mouser basket, but don't sue me over it - I never shop there...


Thanks for the quick reply and your effort. I was checking out the 4hp thread and saw a link to a mouser basket there. So i thought lets build that one too and make the order count.
I usually get my stuff at reichelt, since i actually find what i am looking for.
Which one is your favorite?


depends, Reichelt mostly, but also Conrad, TME, RS, Ali and Taobao smile


Taobao is a good one. Hows your mandarin?
av500
random:user
thumbs up
av500
random:user wrote:

Taobao is a good one. Hows your mandarin?


as good as Google Translate smile
av500
grizzle wrote:
I'm in for a pcb + panel!


sorry, the PCB is the panel smile
jazzmonster
Looks fantastic! I might be interested in the PCB + panel set depending on the price.
windspirit
Im in for a PCB as well, I think this will make giving demos muvh simpler :p.
av500
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


Mouser cart added in top post w00t It's peanut butter jelly time!
random:user
av500 wrote:
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


Mouser cart added in top post w00t It's peanut butter jelly time!


Just realised you uploaded the cart already. Thanks!
calaveras
I'm interested like a tentacle in a Japanese porno.
av500
random:user wrote:
av500 wrote:
random:user wrote:
Nice work! we're not worthy
Any chance we will see something like a mouser basket on this one?
I must admit to being a bit lost with getting those parts together. hmmm.....
And again: Thanks a lot for this! Much appreciated! applause


Mouser cart added in top post w00t It's peanut butter jelly time!


Just realised you uploaded the cart already. Thanks!


your homework is to check it!
coolshirtdotjpg
This looks great. Count me in!
random:user
Mouser cart added in top post w00t It's peanut butter jelly time![/quote]

Just realised you uploaded the cart already. Thanks![/quote]

your homework is to check it![/quote]

Done! Compared BOM with Mouser cart:

All parts included.
Part count is correct.
Part types seem to be correct.

Order placed!

Pls double check and order at your own responsibility.
lasesentaysiete
interested in one
av500
UPDATE: ordering info added in first post, please scroll up smile

[/img]
PWM
Mail sent! w00t
yan6
PWM wrote:
Mail sent! w00t


Me too screaming goo yo
nevetsokyeron
av500 wrote:


it's missing the AMS1117-3.3V, but these are cheap on Ebay and you can use the rest for your Mutable builds smile


Is the mouser part 511-LD1117S33C equivalent to the AMS1117-3.3V ?

LD1117S33CTR
STMicroelectronics
LDO Voltage Regulators 3.3V 0.8A Positive

yeah it's more expensive than getting them on ebay but I also wouldn't need to wait 2-3 weeks for them to arrive from China.
av500
nevetsokyeron wrote:
av500 wrote:


it's missing the AMS1117-3.3V, but these are cheap on Ebay and you can use the rest for your Mutable builds smile


Is the mouser part 511-LD1117S33C equivalent to the AMS1117-3.3V ?

LD1117S33CTR
STMicroelectronics
LDO Voltage Regulators 3.3V 0.8A Positive

yeah it's more expensive than getting them on ebay but I also wouldn't need to wait 2-3 weeks for them to arrive from China.


thanks, good catch. I didn't find this one. added it to the cart
kinrat
Me too !
random:user
nevetsokyeron wrote:
av500 wrote:


it's missing the AMS1117-3.3V, but these are cheap on Ebay and you can use the rest for your Mutable builds smile


Is the mouser part 511-LD1117S33C equivalent to the AMS1117-3.3V ?

LD1117S33CTR
STMicroelectronics
LDO Voltage Regulators 3.3V 0.8A Positive

yeah it's more expensive than getting them on ebay but I also wouldn't need to wait 2-3 weeks for them to arrive from China.


Nice find. I ll be waiting for mine from China. If anyone from Germany needs one and wants to wait, just pm me your address and i ll mail you one as soon as they arrive.
vtl5c3
Designed in Intestine City.
av500
ok guys, first batch of PCB sets is with the Postman, now I need to count the leftovers and prepare for round two.
sneak-thief
I beta-tested the ZeroScope for the last couple of months:

All I can say is that this is a module that every rack should have, especially when you have 6U or more. Never underestimate how helpful it is to visualize waveforms, especially EGs and LFOs. Not to mention being able to compare two waves.

The frequency counter is the cherry on top.
av500
and all from the first batch gone, new ones on order - we are sorry for the inconvenience you caused w00t w00t w00t
Zaibach
One question about the Diodes: the BOM says 1N5817, in the posted mouser cart is a 1N5819 (40V). I guess they are for reverse power protection - can I just use any schottky that fits the footprint (DO214, SOD123, MiniMelf) and has a Vrrm of 40V? Can't find that specific one at my local suppliers...
Zaibach
Zaibach wrote:
One question about the Diodes: the BOM says 1N5817, in the posted mouser cart is a 1N5819 (40V). I guess they are for reverse power protection - can I just use any schottky that fits the footprint (DO214, SOD123, MiniMelf) and has a Vrrm of 40V? Can't find that specific one at my local suppliers...


Yeah, just saw the BOM lists alternatives... Classic RTFM! d'oh!
Silver
This module looks awesome. Can anyone confirm if this would be an ok first SMD DIY project? I looked over the build doc and it doesn't look terrible. Thanks!
av500
Silver wrote:
This module looks awesome. Can anyone confirm if this would be an ok first SMD DIY project? I looked over the build doc and it doesn't look terrible. Thanks!


I'm a bit biased since I do nothing other than SMD since years, but I would say it's not a too difficult build. it's not many parts and 0805 is manageable.
sammy123
I'm in for the next batch for sure!!
Silver
Ok, sounds like SMD manageable. I'd be in for a PCB DIY set in the next batch too.
polyot
I'd like to join the party for the next batch as well.
av500
it always helps to send me a mail so I can add you to my list smile otherwise you might end up in the third batch smile
ImNotDedYet
emailed as well as responded here. Looks fun!
Blootaka
Wow, this looks great. Will email you!
av500
these people use strange patch cables:

av500
new PCBs are on order. stay tuned and tune stayed!
av500
emeb is first at the finish line!

emeb
av500 wrote:
first at the finish line!



Hey - that looks familiar...

Easy build. Great display. Excellent UI. Recommended!
jazzmonster
looks fantastic!

is there an option to disable the grid? would be good for displaying visuals in XY mode
av500
jazzmonster wrote:
looks fantastic!

is there an option to disable the grid? would be good for displaying visuals in XY mode


actually there is smile

jazzmonster
av500 wrote:
jazzmonster wrote:
looks fantastic!

is there an option to disable the grid? would be good for displaying visuals in XY mode


actually there is smile



Fantastic! I will most probably order a set next week.
Luap
I got mine together last night, but unfortunately I messed up! eek!
It didn't work, so I reflowed everything. Ni dice.. Then I noticed that I hadn't soldered in IC5, only to find I had soldered IC5 where T1 goes.. d'oh!
I don't have ideal tools for reworking SMT stuff here so i guess my best bet is to cut the badly placed LM4040 out so that I don't mess up the pads? Seems like my best bet..
So who in the UK is gonna sell me 1 pesky LM4040?? hihi
jazzmonster
Luap wrote:
I got mine together last night, but unfortunately I messed up! eek!
It didn't work, so I reflowed everything. Ni dice.. Then I noticed that I hadn't soldered in IC5, only to find I had soldered IC5 where T1 goes.. d'oh!
I don't have ideal tools for reworking SMT stuff here so i guess my best bet is to cut the badly placed LM4040 out so that I don't mess up the pads? Seems like my best bet..
So who in the UK is gonna sell me 1 pesky LM4040?? hihi


The are available on eBay, shipping from UK.
av500
Luap wrote:
I got mine together last night, but unfortunately I messed up! eek!
It didn't work, so I reflowed everything. Ni dice.. Then I noticed that I hadn't soldered in IC5, only to find I had soldered IC5 where T1 goes.. d'oh!
I don't have ideal tools for reworking SMT stuff here so i guess my best bet is to cut the badly placed LM4040 out so that I don't mess up the pads? Seems like my best bet..
So who in the UK is gonna sell me 1 pesky LM4040?? hihi


careful not to damage the pads when "cutting out" the LM4040, that can happen too. if you have a second soldering iron you can heat up one pin from one side and the other two with the second iron and lift it up. add some extra solder on all three pads before you do that so that the heat from the iron gets transferred nicely.
Luap
jazzmonster wrote:


The are available on eBay, shipping from UK.


Thanks, but I im not ebay enabled.. I have seen them on Amazon too however, although i'd have to buy at least 5 of them. I might just do that anyway.

av500 wrote:

careful not to damage the pads when "cutting out" the LM4040, that can happen too. if you have a second soldering iron you can heat up one pin from one side and the other two with the second iron and lift it up. add some extra solder on all three pads before you do that so that the heat from the iron gets transferred nicely.


Yeah thats a good point. I don't have a second soldering iron, but I might just get one as it seems like a better bet than cutting it out..

(How stupid do I feel today!?? d'oh! confused d'oh! )
av500
adding this to the build guide:
---------------------------------------------------------------------- -
switching encoder rotation

depending on what rotary encoder you have used, the rotation direction might be swapped. “normally” turning the upper encoder clockwise should decrease time/div and turning the lower encoder clockwise should decrease V/div.  Press and hold the upper OR the lower button when powering up the module to change the encoder rotation direction between “NORMAL” and “SWAPPED”, this selection will be saved permanently.
PWM
Where do people get the display from? It's not in the mouser cart.. Am I missing something?
av500
PWM wrote:
Where do people get the display from? It's not in the mouser cart.. Am I missing something?


eBay or Aliexpress, I did not put any links as they tend to be short lived. Search for "0.96 OLED 128x64 SPI" and make sure you have the 7 pin version. I will put a pic in the top post now.

PWM
av500, Thanks! Ordered one.
Luap
Im sure i've seen those displays on Amazon too.. Amazon is not a half bad source of components these days!
That said, I bought mine here: http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=172_18 1&products_id=2855
If you are in the UK, then its ideal, but I expect they are handy for mainland europeans too (Price for that part is decent also)

---------------

I've not fixed my module yet.. I was just watching a video about those chipquik kits, which looks ideal for the little desoldering job I need to do, so I think i'll be trying that. The part will probably even be usable afterwards!?
Silver
Anyone have any thoughts on blue vs white???
av500
Silver wrote:
Anyone have any thoughts on blue vs white???


I buy white.
av500
built myself a battery powered PortaScope today smile so I can debug my modular with my module - ah! It's peanut butter jelly time!

av500
PCBs have arrived, now soldering CPUs over the next days, stay tuned.
Silver
parts ordered... can't wait! hyper
nevetsokyeron
av500 wrote:
built myself a battery powered PortaScope today smile so I can debug my modular with my module - ah! It's peanut butter jelly time!


Ace!
PWM
Build it to test my new soldering set-up. Easy enough build (if you do SMD/SMT) and works like a charm!
But what's with the screw assortment I got with mine?.. smile
av500
PWM wrote:
Build it to test my new soldering set-up. Easy enough build (if you do SMD/SMT) and works like a charm!
But what's with the screw assortment I got with mine?.. smile


long screws for the acrylic cover, no? M3 and M2.5, the one true size! maybe short ones too? I forgot smile
PWM
av500 wrote:
PWM wrote:
Build it to test my new soldering set-up. Easy enough build (if you do SMD/SMT) and works like a charm!
But what's with the screw assortment I got with mine?.. smile


long screws for the acrylic cover, no? M3 and M2.5, the one true size! maybe short ones too? I forgot smile



2x long M3, 2x long M2,5, 1x short M3, 1x short M2,5..

Also, worst game of pong ever! wink grin
[EDIT] VC Pong!!
av500
PWM wrote:

2x long M3, 2x long M2,5, 1x short M3, 1x short M2,5..

Also, worst game of pong ever! wink grin
[EDIT] VC Pong!!


first rule of the VC Pong is.....
PWM
Always modulate channel 2 with the inverted signal of channel 1. That's why the inputs are through-connected!
random:user
Just finished mine. Now i m super happy! w00t
av500
random:user wrote:
Just finished mine. Now i m super happy! w00t

applause w00t It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners Rockin' Banana! w00t applause
sicpaul
My two PCB sets arrived today It's peanut butter jelly time! Rockin' Banana!
Thanks av500!

Since i have to wait until my displays arrive i want to ensure i did populate the boards correctly: is it R5 - R1 - R15 from edge to encoder (or R5 - R15 - R1)?

Is there a link to Build guide v1.2?

Another question: i do have a bunch of encoders with only 20 pulses (with switch), any reason why not using them?.
av500
sicpaul wrote:
My two PCB sets arrived today It's peanut butter jelly time! Rockin' Banana!
Thanks av500!

Since i have to wait until my displays arrive i want to ensure i did populate the boards correctly: is it R5 - R1 - R15 from edge to encoder (or R5 - R15 - R1)?

Is there a link to Build guide v1.2?

Another question: i do have a bunch of encoders with only 20 pulses (with switch), any reason why not using them?.


it's top to bottom: R5, R15, R1 (same as R6, R16, R3 on the other side). R5/R15 are the same 100k and in parallel so you don't have to source 50k 1%

I added the v1.2 build guide to the top post and here

20 pulse encoders should be ok - but then there are some encoders that have a different pulse to detent ratio. so maybe solder only the 3 pins (the other 2 are the switch) for one encoder and test
audiohawk
Is this display ok?

Display
av500
audiohawk wrote:
Is this display ok?

Display


yes, but I would buy the WHITE version:

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/white-spi-i2c-0-96-inch-oled-display -module-breakout-board-for-arduino
audiohawk
av500 wrote:
audiohawk wrote:
Is this display ok?

Display


yes, but I would buy the WHITE version:

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/white-spi-i2c-0-96-inch-oled-display -module-breakout-board-for-arduino


White it is.
One final question... Their datasheet shows the 7 pin connection but...
There are 2 SPI versions to choose... 3 pin or 4 pin version. Which one? hmmm.....
av500
audiohawk wrote:
av500 wrote:
audiohawk wrote:
Is this display ok?

Display


yes, but I would buy the WHITE version:

http://www.buydisplay.com/default/white-spi-i2c-0-96-inch-oled-display -module-breakout-board-for-arduino


White it is.
One final question... Their datasheet shows the 7 pin connection but...
There are 2 SPI versions to choose... 3 pin or 4 pin version. Which one? hmmm.....


normally all these 7pin modules are preset for 4-pin SPI, if you look at the photo showing the back side you will see R3+R4 installed which means 4-pin SPI.

PWM
My Scopes' display is starting to show some failures. It's flickering but never goes totally off..
I think it's the display itself (I don't have any evidence of this but it worked fine for hours) Are there some points I could check before buying a new one?
av500
PWM wrote:
My Scopes' display is starting to show some failures. It's flickering but never goes totally off..
I think it's the display itself (I don't have any evidence of this but it worked fine for hours) Are there some points I could check before buying a new one?


I never had such a display fail, so I don't really know. if it worked fully before and now stopped working I would suspect the display too.

what you can do is to check that GND and VCC show 0 and 3.3V and if you have a scope - I mean, you have a scope, but this one cant be used to measure itself smile then you can check that the signals on D0, D1, DC and CS look OK.
PWM
av500 wrote:
PWM wrote:
My Scopes' display is starting to show some failures. It's flickering but never goes totally off..
I think it's the display itself (I don't have any evidence of this but it worked fine for hours) Are there some points I could check before buying a new one?


I never had such a display fail, so I don't really know. if it worked fully before and now stopped working I would suspect the display too.

what you can do is to check that GND and VCC show 0 and 3.3V and if you have a scope - I mean, you have a scope, but this one cant be used to measure itself smile then you can check that the signals on D0, D1, DC and CS look OK.


I'd like to order a second zero... smile
Thanks for the reply! I'll check it out.
av500
PWM wrote:
av500 wrote:
PWM wrote:
My Scopes' display is starting to show some failures. It's flickering but never goes totally off..
I think it's the display itself (I don't have any evidence of this but it worked fine for hours) Are there some points I could check before buying a new one?


I never had such a display fail, so I don't really know. if it worked fully before and now stopped working I would suspect the display too.

what you can do is to check that GND and VCC show 0 and 3.3V and if you have a scope - I mean, you have a scope, but this one cant be used to measure itself smile then you can check that the signals on D0, D1, DC and CS look OK.


I'd like to order a second zero... smile
Thanks for the reply! I'll check it out.


noted, added you to the list. new PCBs to arrive soon.
adh82
This looks awesome!!!!
Any plans to make a sexy silver aluminum panel???
av500
adh82 wrote:
This looks awesome!!!!
Any plans to make a sexy silver aluminum panel???


who says black is not sexy? using a traditional panel means mounting the LCD behind that panel and that means going from 6hp to 8hp and redoing the PCB layouts. so for the moment, no plans
nevetsokyeron
I just finished up my build and I got... Nothing!

My display is not doing anything (Does not light up in any way). seriously, i just don't get it

Display is getting 3.3v and there's voltages that look right most places.

Question - what should be the value at the VDDA pad?

I did not place D3 per the build guide. This is the only thing that *looks* different from the pictures in the build document.

Halp?

EDIT: Reflowed everything, removed the OLED and it works ok in my Ornament and Crime - so it seems it's not the display.

Any chance the MCU that was sent on the board is not programmed? Would the display do anything in this case?
av500
nevetsokyeron wrote:
I just finished up my build and I got... Nothing!

My display is not doing anything (Does not light up in any way). seriously, i just don't get it

Display is getting 3.3v and there's voltages that look right most places.

Question - what should be the value at the VDDA pad?

I did not place D3 per the build guide. This is the only thing that *looks* different from the pictures in the build document.

Halp?

EDIT: Reflowed everything, removed the OLED and it works ok in my Ornament and Crime - so it seems it's not the display.

Any chance the MCU that was sent on the board is not programmed? Would the display do anything in this case?


it would not in this case. but I am pretty sure I programmed them all. VDDA should be 3.3V. can you take a highres pic of the board?
nevetsokyeron
av500 wrote:

it would not in this case. but I am pretty sure I programmed them all. VDDA should be 3.3V. can you take a highres pic of the board?


OK - something is not quite right. I'm getting like 1.5v at VDDA. I'll email you a picture of the board.

EDIT - oops... retract that. I now have 3.3v at VDDA. I musta fixed something with the last bit of soldering.

EDIT 2: Now it's working!

Not sure what I did aside from adding L3 and D3.
nevetsokyeron
It's alive!



This is taking output from Braids in /\/|-_-_ mode.
av500
nevetsokyeron wrote:
av500 wrote:

it would not in this case. but I am pretty sure I programmed them all. VDDA should be 3.3V. can you take a highres pic of the board?


OK - something is not quite right. I'm getting like 1.5v at VDDA. I'll email you a picture of the board.

EDIT - oops... retract that. I now have 3.3v at VDDA. I musta fixed something with the last bit of soldering.

EDIT 2: Now it's working!

Not sure what I did aside from adding L3 and D3.


yes, L3 is needed if you don't install the additional LDO for VDDA, I will clarify the guide. sorry for the confusion caused. screaming goo yo
Blootaka
Board arrived today, thank you!

Looks like I bought the blue display. Why do you suggest white? Looks better through the plexi?

Wondering if it's worth it to reorder a the white version.
av500
Blootaka wrote:
Board arrived today, thank you!

Looks like I bought the blue display. Why do you suggest white? Looks better through the plexi?

Wondering if it's worth it to reorder a the white version.


the plexiglass is clear so that won't change the color. blue will work too I guess
Selektro
thanks for the prompt postage of the kit from first batch, I wanted to make sure I didn't miss this one it looks great! Nice work again av500

Only just getting round to ordering parts as i have x4 other projects i needed to make BOMs for, cant wait to get this thing going but also a little scared of the SMDs!

will post and update when finished
sicpaul
av500 wrote:
....
20 pulse encoders should be ok - but then there are some encoders that have a different pulse to detent ratio. so maybe solder only the 3 pins (the other 2 are the switch) for one encoder and test


Thanks for the advice.
Yesterday my displays arrived, so i finished my first zeroscope today. And i had luck. It worked immediately with my 20 pulse encoders! It's peanut butter jelly time!

A short test showed up all the different waveforms of my several digital oscillators, chaos oscillators and LFOs. Excellent module!! Very helpful!

Many, many thanks for this lovely diy module applause Rockin' Banana!
av500
New PCBs in stock, people on the waitlist will be notified soon
audiohawk
Good news!
Waiting patiently for your contact... hyper
Blootaka
So I got this build finally and it mostly works.

About 1 out of 5 power ups, I get this screen and then it goes blank. The other 4/5 power ups it loads up and functions normally.

Any idea what could be the issue?

av500
Blootaka wrote:
So I got this build finally and it mostly works.

About 1 out of 5 power ups, I get this screen and then it goes blank. The other 4/5 power ups it loads up and functions normally.

Any idea what could be the issue?



have not seen that before, but I would guess a bad solder joint somewhere.can you take a high res pic of the back, showing CPU and OLED?
toneburst
Can I be added to the waiting-list for the next batch (assuming this one is already all accounted for)?

a|x
av500
toneburst wrote:
Can I be added to the waiting-list for the next batch (assuming this one is already all accounted for)?

a|x


see top post for ordering info, I can ship sometime next week.
Blootaka
I reflowed and cleaned the board another time but still the same issue.

This is the best image I could take. Did you need a pic of the other side of the OLED?

One thing to note is that when this problem happens, if I take a voltage reading between the GND and RES on the front of the OLED while still powered, it boots up right away. Could it be the OLED?

This is what I bought:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/112104322026?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPag eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I do have a white version coming in the mail, when that arrives I can pop this out and give that a shot.

nevetsokyeron
Blootaka wrote:
One thing to note is that when this problem happens, if I take a voltage reading between the GND and RES on the front of the OLED while still powered, it boots up right away. Could it be the OLED?


(shot in the dark)

There's something in the picture on the bottom left of the OLED that looks like a crack or a reflection on the ribbon cable in there. Is that a crack?

If the OLED glass is cracked, this can cause problems (folks using the similar display on Ornament + Crime have reported cracks in the corner of the glass on the OLED causing glitches).
av500
Blootaka wrote:
I reflowed and cleaned the board another time but still the same issue.

This is the best image I could take. Did you need a pic of the other side of the OLED?

One thing to note is that when this problem happens, if I take a voltage reading between the GND and RES on the front of the OLED while still powered, it boots up right away. Could it be the OLED?

This is what I bought:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/112104322026?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPag eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I do have a white version coming in the mail, when that arrives I can pop this out and give that a shot.



can you tie the RES pin to VCC with a wire or a 10k resistor and test?
Blootaka
nevetsokyeron, that's just the light and the ribbon underneath the glass making it look funny.

Tried the 10k resistor between the VCC and RES and still having the same issue.

Not here most of next week, hopefully the other OLED arrives so I can test it out.
nevetsokyeron
One more shot in the dark - Check the back of your OLED to be sure its setup for 4-pin SPI and not 3-pin - per this message awhile back.

av500 wrote:

normally all these 7pin modules are preset for 4-pin SPI, if you look at the photo showing the back side you will see R3+R4 installed which means 4-pin SPI.

Blootaka
Took it off just to make sure. Looks like it is 4SPI

nevetsokyeron
Hmmm... I'd try reflowing all the solder joints on the display and the header for the display. Maybe check the ICs for a lifted pin?
av500
my test jig for programming the CPU also has an OLED, so I do check if these pins are soldered before shipping. I cannot tell much from the pic if there is maybe still a bad solder joint on the CPU.
Blootaka
No prob. As I said I'm going out of town this week, will report back once the second OLED arrives and I test it out.

Thanks for the help
sockmonkey
Received, built, gorgeous. Thanks for this great, practical project.
Silver
Bleh. Major bummer, I soldered it all up and it didn't work. Then I realized I didn't include L3 (got confused by the build guide). Tried soldering L3, but I think I pulled the pad furthest from the power header off. Any thoughts on how to fix this? Can I just solder it to C10 next to it? d'oh!
Any help would be much appreciated.

[/img]
yan6
If you can see the trace that the pad connected to. Try to scrape some of the black top coat with a razor blade to expose the copper of the trace. You can then try and bridge the trace and L3 with some solder.
yan6
actually I just checked with the schematic, depending on what side of L3, it is either connected to C1 or C26. It would be way easier to use a meter to find out which side of which cap and solder in a jumper wire
Silver
The pad, black top coat and trace all appear to be gone... Dead Banana
yan6
Refer to schematic and use a meter to figure out where the missing side of your l3 went and add a wire jumper. Either c1 or c26 thumbs up
Silver
How would I tell with a meter which side of which cap? The side of L3 that I screwed up is adjacent to C10.
yan6
Im pretty sure that connects to c10. You can just blob some solder over and connect the two
Silver
WORKED!!!!!! Thanks yan6 you rock! applause applause applause applause
yan6
Glad to hear it nanners
Silver
Ok, thought I was in the clear, but channel 2 only seems to register a signal with a pretty high voltage and then converts it to a pulse no matter the wave, like it's going through a comparator. Did I do something to screw up the settings? Any other ideas? Channel 1 works fine.
av500
Silver wrote:
Ok, thought I was in the clear, but channel 2 only seems to register a signal with a pretty high voltage and then converts it to a pulse no matter the wave, like it's going through a comparator. Did I do something to screw up the settings? Any other ideas? Channel 1 works fine.


I don't think it's in the settings. check the soldering and the values of the resistors for channel 2 (R1, R2, R5, R15). if you can take a high res picture of that part of the PCB, please post it here.
Silver
Reflowed those resistors and it's working now! Thanks so much! This is why Muffwiggler is the best! People designing and sharing great new modules and an awesome community of people helping! Thanks av500, this is an awesome addition to my case and looking forward to tackling the Euclidean Circles next. It's peanut butter jelly time!
Luap
Mines up and running at last! cool
For anyone that happens to remember, I soldered an SMD regulator in the wrong place, doh!
I went with Chipquik in the end to help fix it. Good stuff and highly recommended.
I even managed to salvage the regulator I had put in the wrong place and re-use it.
spinning
batchas
Blootaka wrote:
So I got this build finally and it mostly works.

About 1 out of 5 power ups, I get this screen and then it goes blank. The other 4/5 power ups it loads up and functions normally.

Any idea what could be the issue?


Here it's on each 1st power up that it fails. Only on the 2nd it will power on. Running on Doepfer PSU2***
Here I filmed the first time I powered it on after receiving it (since then it's like this. Also in the other cases. Powers on only on second try).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7L3_5uq9CI

But when it runs it's fun...

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUVG93G_U38



***Same issue on a Orgone Accumulator, but not in the Doepfer. I built a few for the Bugbrand system and kept the one which does that (in despite of a mod which exists, adding a cap to the circuit).
av500
Hmm, I have powered these up and down hundreds of times on different PSUs, but of course I cannot speak for each of them. I'll see if I can reproduce such a lockup seriously, i just don't get it
batchas
The seller told me that putting it in a case with analog PSU the issue was gone. But afaik the Doepfer PSU is not a switching one, so I'm not sure what is the cause or the solution.
Altitude909
batchas wrote:
The seller told me that putting it in a case with analog PSU the issue was gone. But afaik the Doepfer PSU is not a switching one, so I'm not sure what is the cause or the solution.


Is that a crack in the glass in the lower left? That could be it, there are wire bonds in that epoxy under the glass there and any damage to those areas can spell goodbye display
yan6
I chased this issue all night and I thought I had it at one point very frustrating at first I was thinking inrush current issues and tried capacitors all over the place but without any luck. I began looking at the display and noticed a 3.3v regulator, which is powered by only 3.3v.

This got me thinking perhaps it was under powered. With much effort I removed the oled display and bypassed the regulator. I had fantastic results and was just about to post my findings and thought I had better be thorough. I was aggressively plugging it in and out when the display quite on me. I dont know if its power related or just coincidence hmmm..... It was running without the regulator for about an hour and had been turned on and off like 50 times???

With a spare display I tried cutting the 3.3v trace on the main pcb and fed the display pin with a 5v regulator just to see if this gave the same good results. It made no difference and gave the same results with the screen locking up. I'm thinking the oled's on board regulator may be faulty or causing the issue.

I am the wiggler that sold the module to Batchas. What I was trying to describe was: I have all my analog modules on one power bus and all my digital modules on another power bus. At first I thought the issue was resolved when it was placed on the analog power bus. It may have lessened the occurrence of it, but in the end it was still present. Part of the error may have been how I was testing it too.

Batchas PM me to work it out thumbs up

EDIT: under the microscope I found c8 blown on the faulty display hmmm.....
av500
yeah, there is a regulator on the carrier PCB, but wherever I see these used I see people plugging 3.3v directly to it. and I don't think the OLED supply voltage is an issue here.
batchas
yan6 wrote:
Batchas PM me to work it out thumbs up

yan6, the communication with you was and still is top. The shipment ultra quick. The packaging top. So, like I said in my PM, absolutely no bad feeling here. Really it's all cool thumbs up
And thank you also for checking on your side. These things take always so much time. I hope you can easely fix yours and that it's only the capacitor to replace. I can live with powering up a second time the system to get it work.

I posted because Blootaka mentionned the lockup issue during power up on his module. Wanted to let him know that it also happens here. And see if maybe there's an easy solution.
batchas
Altitude909 wrote:
Is that a crack in the glass in the lower left? That could be it, there are wire bonds in that epoxy under the glass there and any damage to those areas can spell goodbye display

It always powers up correctly with second try. And then works fine.

Wondering if Blootaka is also using a Doepfer PSU2.

I'm gonna test in another Doepfer empty powered rack.
I'll also try with the Serge PSU. And with the labor supply. I'll check first if 5v is needed.
av500
batchas wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
Is that a crack in the glass in the lower left? That could be it, there are wire bonds in that epoxy under the glass there and any damage to those areas can spell goodbye display

It always powers up correctly with second try. And then works fine.

Wondering if Blootaka is also using a Doepfer PSU2.

I'm gonna test in another Doepfer empty powered rack.
I'll also try with the Serge PSU. And with the labor supply. I'll check first if 5v is needed.


that crack is not a crack, I have that on some of mine too. also, I am not sure this is an OLED issue, maybe it's the CPU that does not boot properly

could you try to add 100nF to GND on the NRST line, its available e.g. on the 6pin debug connector:

polyot
+1 on first power up usually doing the above. After that it's all good. Tiptop uZeus power. Not the biggest deal in the world. I'll have to see if I have any 100nf caps lying about.
Luap
Just for the record, I'm using a doepfer PSU 2 with no problems.
yan6
So far so good on the 100nf. I haven't yet had the lockup issue. I also removed the 5v regulator and repaired the trace, returning it to the originally supplied 3.3v. I will continue testing it but it is an easy fix, 100nf across two of the debug pins.
batchas
av500 wrote:
could you try to add 100nF to GND on the NRST line, its available e.g. on the 6pin debug connector

I'll try that too. Thank you thumbs up
polyot
Yep, mine is better as well with the added capacitor. thumbs up
av500
ok, so I will add that to the build guide and the next PCB revision. thanks yan6 for testing and verifying that!
Blootaka
Thanks for the email!

My power supply is the TipTop Studio Bus x3 with their power supply and I'm at roughly 1/3 power draw. Plenty of room but I did test it with a few modules unplugged just to be sure.

I just finished trying this with the 100nf, but I'm having mixed results. It feels as if the problem has lessened, but it's still there. The problem seems random and I can't seem make it fail or work.

I am happy to use the module as is. The less times I have to desolder it the better.
latigid on
Have you tried a crude power-on reset circuit? Connect NRST with a weak pull up (1-10k) to Vdd, 10uF to Vss. This should hold the controller in reset until the MPU has properly initialised.
av500
latigid on wrote:
Have you tried a crude power-on reset circuit? Connect NRST with a weak pull up (1-10k) to Vdd, 10uF to Vss. This should hold the controller in reset until the MPU has properly initialised.


there is a ~40k pullup already inside the STM32. I also checked the data sheet for the CPU and there is a 100nF cap recommended to "protect the device against parasitic resets". I have never needed that on e.g. the Euclidean Circles though, so I think the issue here is that the NRST line is also connected to the OLED RES input and that changes the behaviour. I'll have a look with the scope in the next days.
latigid on
Ah, I see now that the reset line is shared by both the processor and OLED controller. My suggestion was to hold the OLED in reset during startup independently of the MCU, and initialise after a delay once the processor has settled.
av500
if I could reproduce the error I could find out whether its the CPU that hangs or the OLED display...
Selektro
hey av500, is it possible to get a pcb trace layout image for fault finding and bridging? from the L2 to R3 area?? i think some of my resistor joints are coupling and have damaged 1 pad Dead Banana
av500
Selektro wrote:
hey av500, is it possible to get a pcb trace layout image for fault finding and bridging? from the L2 to R3 area?? i think some of my resistor joints are coupling and have damaged 1 pad Dead Banana


this any help?

batchas
As info. Here no difference with or without 100nF capacitor added. Still powers on only on second try.
Selektro
av500 wrote:
Selektro wrote:
hey av500, is it possible to get a pcb trace layout image for fault finding and bridging? from the L2 to R3 area?? i think some of my resistor joints are coupling and have damaged 1 pad Dead Banana


this any help?



great thanks, r13 was lifted but easily connected to L2, no sure if i have bridges on r6-r4 and another but it doesn't look like it matters, and so far all seems ok it powers up, tomorrow i will receive my jacks and power cable so fingers crossed This is fun!
av500
ok, so I did manage to reproduce the issue, by disconnecting NRST from RES and connecting RES to VCC on the OLED. then indeed the first bootup after a while shows the issue and subsequent powerups are OK.

the CPU comes up fine in all cases, so it's the OLED that has the issue - and it might explain why there are differences since there are different versions of these OLEDs around.

anyway, adding a capacitor to GND on the NRST line does delay that signal going high, if 100nF is not enough it's worth trying with 1uF.
robmck
Adding a 100n capacitor from GND to the NRST line fixed mine as well.

Really nice module BTW!
av500
robmck wrote:
Adding a 100n capacitor from GND to the NRST line fixed mine as well.

Really nice module BTW!


glad to hear that it works now It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners It's peanut butter jelly time!
pieter
I'm still waiting for all my parts to arrive, so I haven't started on mine yet. Would you say I should add the 100nF preemptively?
av500
pieter wrote:
I'm still waiting for all my parts to arrive, so I haven't started on mine yet. Would you say I should add the 100nF preemptively?


I am now adding it to all the builds that I do, and I will add it to the next PCB revision as well.
pieter
Cool, thanks!
batchas
batchas wrote:
As info. Here no difference with or without 100nF capacitor added. Still powers on only on second try.

av500 wrote:
anyway, adding a capacitor to GND on the NRST line does delay that signal going high, if 100nF is not enough it's worth trying with 1uF.

The 1uF cap fixed it. Now powering on like it should.
Thank you thumbs up
av500
batchas wrote:
batchas wrote:
As info. Here no difference with or without 100nF capacitor added. Still powers on only on second try.

av500 wrote:
anyway, adding a capacitor to GND on the NRST line does delay that signal going high, if 100nF is not enough it's worth trying with 1uF.

The 1uF cap fixed it. Now powering on like it should.
Thank you thumbs up


yay, thanks for the patience and helping to solve this issue applause what power supply do you have?
batchas
av500 wrote:
what power supply do you have?

Doepfer A-100PSU2.

I tried in 2 x Doepfer A-100 9HE (A-100P9) and also in Doepfer A-100G6 (with and without other modules installed).
Then I checked inside the cases and all have the original Doepfer A-100PSU2 installed.
sockmonkey
Just another data point: mine is installed in a PSU2 case and I haven't seen any problems at all.
Luap
av500 wrote:


I am now adding it to all the builds that I do,


Why would you do that if the issue is confined to certain brands of display which you don't happen to be using yourself?
Just curious : )
pieter
Luap wrote:
av500 wrote:


I am now adding it to all the builds that I do,


Why would you do that if the issue is confined to certain brands of display which you don't happen to be using yourself?
Just curious : )


If it doesn't hurt, why not have one schematic for all possibilities?
ImNotDedYet
Finally finished mine. Had an issue with a burned pad from creating a solder bridge and trying to remove it. But got it figured out.

Fantastic module!

Thank you!
av500
Luap wrote:
av500 wrote:


I am now adding it to all the builds that I do,


Why would you do that if the issue is confined to certain brands of display which you don't happen to be using yourself?
Just curious : )


because it seems more related to the power supply than to the brand of display. and as I see it all the "brands" are one single OLED manufacturer (Univision) and a few different colored carrier PCBs that all have the same schematic...
ImNotDedYet
FTR, I've powered down and up a few times with no issues on boot. I did add the non SMD cap to it.

I've got a Doepfer A-100 PSU 2 as well. Strangely, it's different than my first A-100 PSU 2 in that it's got a brick with an on/off switch while the first didn't. It's running from the brick with the switch and appears to have no issues.
av500
updated the build guide to clarify that L3 is to be installed
elmegil
av500 wrote:
Blootaka wrote:
So I got this build finally and it mostly works.

About 1 out of 5 power ups, I get this screen and then it goes blank. The other 4/5 power ups it loads up and functions normally.

Any idea what could be the issue?



have not seen that before, but I would guess a bad solder joint somewhere.can you take a high res pic of the back, showing CPU and OLED?


Interesting. Just finished my build and I'm getting the same thing, with the addition of sometimes it just stays blank screen, period.

Let me run over the solder joints and give it a good look and get back to you.

It seems like in my case there is some correlation to how long the module has been powered off, btw. If I get this and I immediately off/on the switch it always (so far?) comes back to the proper function.


Edit: DUH, I didn't add the extra cap. Let me take care of that stat!
batchas
elmegil wrote:
Edit: DUH, I didn't add the extra cap. Let me take care of that stat!

Indeed, add an extra cap. I had the same issue and added a 1uF (smaller did not do it). Works fine since then thumbs up
fitzgreyve
Excellent design! put it together in about 2 hours, worked first time. applause
av500
fitzgreyve wrote:
Excellent design! put it together in about 2 hours, worked first time. applause


thanks we're not worthy hihi
fuzzbass
Can anyone suggest a source for knobs, d shaft, no indicator? I'm in US. Only ones I see on ebay have stupid price like 2@$20. None of the diy pedal merchants I usually deal with (tayda, banzai, small bear, mammoth) have these. Thanks.
Altitude909
fuzzbass wrote:
Can anyone suggest a source for knobs, d shaft, no indicator? I'm in US. Only ones I see on ebay have stupid price like 2@$20. None of the diy pedal merchants I usually deal with (tayda, banzai, small bear, mammoth) have these. Thanks.


Selco if you want Sifam stuff but they have have a $50 minimum. Digikey stocks pointerless Kilo parts on a 6mm shaft (which work fine for D shaft), sharp but pricey..
av500
fuzzbass wrote:
Can anyone suggest a source for knobs, d shaft, no indicator? I'm in US. Only ones I see on ebay have stupid price like 2@$20. None of the diy pedal merchants I usually deal with (tayda, banzai, small bear, mammoth) have these. Thanks.


email me
av500
actually some of the cheap Chinese Davies clones might be fine, the line is only painted on and should rub off easily
PWM
av500 wrote:
actually some of the cheap Chinese Davies clones might be fine, the line is only painted on and should rub off easily


Can confirm. Didn't scrub, the lines just vaporized..
fuzzbass
PWM wrote:
av500 wrote:
actually some of the cheap Chinese Davies clones might be fine, the line is only painted on and should rub off easily


Can confirm. Didn't scrub, the lines just vaporized..


I had a couple of black 1900 clones, so I tried various solvents (isopropyl, acetone, mineral spirits, naphtha and laquer thinner). The ones that dissolved the paint (acetone, laquer thinner) also worked on the plastic. I buffed the tops with some chamoise, and got acceptable looking knobs (from the rejects bin!).

Seeing as more and more modules are using rotary encoders, I'm going to need a more sustainable solution, but this takes care of the scope.

Thanks!
elmegil
I just ignore the lines ;-)
PWM
fuzzbass wrote:
PWM wrote:
av500 wrote:
actually some of the cheap Chinese Davies clones might be fine, the line is only painted on and should rub off easily


Can confirm. Didn't scrub, the lines just vaporized..


I had a couple of black 1900 clones, so I tried various solvents (isopropyl, acetone, mineral spirits, naphtha and laquer thinner). The ones that dissolved the paint (acetone, laquer thinner) also worked on the plastic. I buffed the tops with some chamoise, and got acceptable looking knobs (from the rejects bin!).

Seeing as more and more modules are using rotary encoders, I'm going to need a more sustainable solution, but this takes care of the scope.

Thanks!


Mine were really, really cheap clones. Without the metal insert and the paint was 60% gone when I got them.
The better clones (the ones Thonk has for instance) are a much higher quality.
Selektro
just quick update from earlier building troubles i had, its been up and running no probs since before xmas, pretty and pretty useful!


Oblivion
av500, Modular Addict had these available until recently. Do you know anything about them getting restocked anytime soon? I hesitated getting a kit before b/c the encoders were out of stock at the time. You snooze, you lose. wink

Cheaper for me here in the US than direct from you with postage and currency conversion.

Thanks.
av500
Oblivion wrote:
av500, Modular Addict had these available until recently. Do you know anything about them getting restocked anytime soon? I hesitated getting a kit before b/c the encoders were out of stock at the time. You snooze, you lose. wink

Cheaper for me here in the US than direct from you with postage and currency conversion.

Thanks.


yes, they should have them in stock soon, shipment it on it's way.
av500
top post updated with v1.3 BOM and Build Guide...
Blootaka
So I didn't have a 1uf to test out before. The 100nf did not work for me.

Finally needed to order more than the one part. Installed the 1uf and it booted up immediately!! Thank you so much for solving the issue!!

My power supply is the Tip Top Studio Bus.

Thanks again, great build and support!
Oblivion
Got my kit and most parts a few weeks ago, but somehow ordered out-of-stock Schottky diodes, so have been waiting for those. Decided to start the build last night and get as far as I could - this being only my 3rd or 4th dabble in SMD soldering. The next thing I knew, it was way too late and I was tacking on through-hole diodes to complete/test the build. And . . . .

IT WORKS! Very cool little scope. Guinness ftw!

I'm going to need to work out some alternate mounting for the screen protector since I don't currently have threaded mounting rails in my cases (DIY w/ wood strips), have to get some proper knobs for it, and I'll swap on the SMD diodes when they come in, but: nanners

On goof/gotcha: at first, I neatly soldered all of the jacks on the wrong side of the PCB, misled/confused by the silkscreening - though I could/should have easily test-fit before I soldered. I had a bear of a time unsoldering them all - even with braid and sucker - and feared lifting a trace, but managed to do it with minimal damage. very frustrating

Anyway: thumbs up SlayerBadger! nanners

So, I grabbed 2 of these displays when I ordered since adding the second was minimal compared to shipping charges. Did I read that the O&C uses the same display? Hmmm.
av500
Oblivion wrote:
Got my kit and most parts a few weeks ago, but somehow ordered out-of-stock Schottky diodes, so have been waiting for those. Decided to start the build last night and get as far as I could - this being only my 3rd or 4th dabble in SMD soldering. The next thing I knew, it was way too late and I was tacking on through-hole diodes to complete/test the build. And . . . .

IT WORKS! Very cool little scope. Guinness ftw!

I'm going to need to work out some alternate mounting for the screen protector since I don't currently have threaded mounting rails in my cases (DIY w/ wood strips), have to get some proper knobs for it, and I'll swap on the SMD diodes when they come in, but: nanners

On goof/gotcha: at first, I neatly soldered all of the jacks on the wrong side of the PCB, misled/confused by the silkscreening - though I could/should have easily test-fit before I soldered. I had a bear of a time unsoldering them all - even with braid and sucker - and feared lifting a trace, but managed to do it with minimal damage. very frustrating

Anyway: thumbs up SlayerBadger! nanners

So, I grabbed 2 of these displays when I ordered since adding the second was minimal compared to shipping charges. Did I read that the O&C uses the same display? Hmmm.


the O_C uses the 1.3" variant of the OLED, ZeroScope uses the 0.96".

sorry about the silkscreen, I will change that for the next PCB run. I always assumed people would sandwich jacks and encoders between the two PCBs before soldering.

just swap the M3 screws for whatever you use for your wood strips and you should be good to go, no?
Oblivion
Oh, gotcha on the screen - so, I have an extra I could be convinced to sell for a beer if anyone wants, I guess. Or maybe I'll build a second.

As for the jack situation - yeah, I forget my exact reasoning for doing it like I did as it was 1 a.m. No apologies needed. I seem to be the first dolt to do that, so just proved the law of idiot-proofing. I was more concerned about getting the pin header aligned, so did the jacks and then left the header and encoders loose and THEN sandwiched and soldered.

I'll need to get some long wood screws, yeah, simple as that I guess. Did I mention I was up too late? zombie
hippasus
Thank you av500 for this great tool. Is there anyway to monitor the voltage in numbers units for example vpp or vmax, vmin?
mos6502
Just assembled mine and it powers up, everything looks good, I can scroll through the settings and change everything, but it appears only the tuner works... anybody seen this?

I need to look at everything again, but if someone knows off the top of their head...
mos6502
I stand corrected... the second channel works, just the first one does not, with #1 I only get a single solid bar to the top when I send a signal (in the pic... bottom is second channel working just fine). I will check my connections when I get the chance (holidays make it hard for the next 36 hours!), just throwing this out there in case anyone is like "yeah, check component X", etc.

Thanks and granted I get both channels working, this thing is boss smile

av500
mos6502 wrote:
I stand corrected... the second channel works, just the first one does not, with #1 I only get a single solid bar to the top when I send a signal (in the pic... bottom is second channel working just fine). I will check my connections when I get the chance (holidays make it hard for the next 36 hours!), just throwing this out there in case anyone is like "yeah, check component X", etc.


check the soldering of all the resistors around the opamp and the opamp itself.
Oblivion
I'd track an input signal with another scope or a multimeter from the input jack until it dies. Wild guess is a solder bridge to ground somewhere.
av500
check the junction of IC2 pin7, R4, C4 for a short to ground.

if you can, please make a high res photo of the board (with jacks and encoders removed) and post it
mos6502
av500 wrote:
mos6502 wrote:
I stand corrected... the second channel works, just the first one does not, with #1 I only get a single solid bar to the top when I send a signal (in the pic... bottom is second channel working just fine). I will check my connections when I get the chance (holidays make it hard for the next 36 hours!), just throwing this out there in case anyone is like "yeah, check component X", etc.


check the soldering of all the resistors around the opamp and the opamp itself.


Thanks, will check them first. Per the diagram it looks like R4 and R6 would be ok if accidentally bridged, that may have happened as well.
mos6502
av500 wrote:
check the junction of IC2 pin7, R4, C4 for a short to ground.

if you can, please make a high res photo of the board (with jacks and encoders removed) and post it


Thanks, checked that junction, there is no connection to ground from any of those points, but they all test positive as connected to one another.

This is my first SMD build and I'm using a conventional soldering iron, I've reworked most of these components too many times and it all sucks at this point, I know seriously, i just don't get it

As before, the module still powers up fine and channel 2 continues to work.


elmegil
The nature of photos of solder makes it hard to tell, do you have any short between C27 & C28?
mos6502
elmegil wrote:
The nature of photos of solder makes it hard to tell, do you have any short between C27 & C28?


C25, 26, 27, and 28 all have connectivity on the left side of the photo, on the right, C25 and 26 do, and C27 and 28 do.
mos6502
I figured it out - I must have destroyed a trace while trying to undo a solder bridge I'd accidentally created between R4 and R6, thus cutting off the input signal from R4 and C4 per the block diagram.

I bridged R6, R4 and C4 from the sides that face one another and voila. Please let me know if this is not how it's supposed to work - but it does seem to be ok now!

Great module and thanks!
av500
[quote="mos6502"]I figured it out - I must have destroyed a trace while trying to undo a solder bridge I'd accidentally created between R4 and R6, thus cutting off the input signal from R4 and C4 per the block diagram.

I bridged R6, R4 and C4 from the sides that face one another and voila. Please let me know if this is not how it's supposed to work - but it does seem to be ok now!

Great module and thanks![/quote

glad you got it working. enjoy! nanners ]
Amer1231
is it possible to use a bigger screen? if so, what ahould i look out for?

cheers
av500
Amer1231 wrote:
is it possible to use a bigger screen? if so, what ahould i look out for?

cheers


you can use the slightly larger 1.3" screen as used on the Ormanent & Crime, they should be pin compatible. whether there are other 128x64 pixel screens with the same controller I don't know.
sockmonkey
I built my ZeroScope a while back and it mostly works. However, I was using it recently to visualize some trigger outputs and found it missing a number of (reasonably wide, 30ms) trigger signals. And then I noticed that the trigger function isn't working at all, neither from CH1 nor from the external input. So I need to put this back on the bench. Where should I be looking in the schematic as a starting point?

Thanks, Jeremy
av500
sockmonkey wrote:
I built my ZeroScope a while back and it mostly works. However, I was using it recently to visualize some trigger outputs and found it missing a number of (reasonably wide, 30ms) trigger signals. And then I noticed that the trigger function isn't working at all, neither from CH1 nor from the external input. So I need to put this back on the bench. Where should I be looking in the schematic as a starting point?

Thanks, Jeremy


if you can see a signal on CH1, then you can also trigger with it, since that is done in software. what is the trigger mode you are running in? press the top encoder and check the trigger settings (TRG) in the menu. is it set to "off" by chance?
sockmonkey
Nope, I've switched between the different modes and tried all of them, as well as setting different trigger signal levels. I am not getting typical trigger behavior, though -- the signal simply continues to scroll across the display without regard for the trigger mode/level/horizontal trigger point.
av500
well, this is strange, since the trigger for CH1 is done in software after the AD conversion.

can you long press the lower encoder to freeze the display and send a screenshot?
av500
what timebase are you using? 100ms/div and slower is a "rolling mode" with no triggering indeed
sockmonkey
Thanks, that explains the lack of trigger. At faster modes, trigger is working. I don't think that's in the manual.

As for the missed pulses, is there anything in hardware which would explain that?
av500
sockmonkey wrote:
Thanks, that explains the lack of trigger. At faster modes, trigger is working. I don't think that's in the manual.

As for the missed pulses, is there anything in hardware which would explain that?


I just tried with 10ms pulses, I can see them trigger and display nicely in 50ms/div and I can also see them in the rolling 100ms/div mode.

same with putting the same signal to EXT trigger input.

even if you cannot trigger, can you see these 30ms signals show on the display?
sockmonkey
Some of them, some of them get missed. I'm testing a burst generator and I'm only seeing ~50% of the ratcheted trigger outputs. I can hear them and see them fine on my Rigol oscilloscope.
av500
sockmonkey wrote:
Some of them, some of them get missed. I'm testing a burst generator and I'm only seeing ~50% of the ratcheted trigger outputs. I can hear them and see them fine on my Rigol oscilloscope.


erm, if they are 0-5V signals, can you raise the trigger level a bit up from 0?
sockmonkey
As I wrote above, I've experimented with the trigger level -- I know how to use an oscilloscope! :-)

Anyway, forget the trigger -- as you explained, the trigger mode doesn't work at longer time scales, and I can accept that. I am seeing a functioning trigger mode at faster time scales, so that's cool.

I am not seeing ~50% of incoming clock pulses on either input. Which 50% is variable (I'm looking at a repeating group of 8 pulses, for instance, and it's variable whether 2,4,6,7 are missing or 1,3,4,5 or whatever). The clock pulses being ~30ms wide and ~0-10V.
bcnx
Hi,

the acrylic screen takes a bit away of the nice outlook of the module. Is it really necessary?

cheers,

BC
av500
bcnx wrote:
Hi,

the acrylic screen takes a bit away of the nice outlook of the module. Is it really necessary?

cheers,

BC


up to you. don't throw sharp objects at it smile
dujoducom
I just ordered a "partial kit" from Modular Addict before checking what version it was... the photo in the PCB says v1.0, but maybe it's just an old photo. Out of curiosity in case I end up with a v1, what is the difference between 1.0 and 1.3?
av500
dujoducom wrote:
I just ordered a "partial kit" from Modular Addict before checking what version it was... the photo in the PCB says v1.0, but maybe it's just an old photo. Out of curiosity in case I end up with a v1, what is the difference between 1.0 and 1.3?


yeah it's most likely an old photo, all recent PCBs are v1.3. functionally there are no differences
spoor
I've built 2 - one works perfectly - am really pleased - a very satisfying build.

On the other one: I can't get Dual / Single / X/Y to work (Freq is fine). I get a 'T?' error bottom left, and each channel has a flat line in mid position at anything below 100ms. At 100ms and above, the flat lines shift to just above the 3rd grid line, but that's it.

Anything obvious that I'm missing? (So far I've only re-flowed and checked for bridges)
av500
spoor wrote:
I've built 2 - one works perfectly - am really pleased - a very satisfying build.

On the other one: I can't get Dual / Single / X/Y to work (Freq is fine). I get a 'T?' error bottom left, and each channel has a flat line in mid position at anything below 100ms. At 100ms and above, the flat lines shift to just above the 3rd grid line, but that's it.

Anything obvious that I'm missing? (So far I've only re-flowed and checked for bridges)


T? means there is no trigger detected. looks to me like the analog input channels are not working. if you have a scope you could check the signal at the output of the opamp, R2 and R4 (pads facing the opamp) can easily be accessed from the side even with the jacks PCB mounted. also check the polarity of D2 and the voltage at R13/C3 should read -2.5V

if you just plug a cable into CH1 and CH2, the voltage at R2 and R4 should be around 1.65V
spoor
Great - thanks for the pointers. (might take a while for me to get to this, as I've got other backlog in progress...)
av500
spoor wrote:
Great - thanks for the pointers. (might take a while for me to get to this, as I've got other backlog in progress...)


for a first quick test you might swap the jack boards between the two. just to make sure the signal isn't shorted out there already...
GSE
Just built one of these and it came out great. My first SMD build, thanks to years of soldering. And practicing first by removing/placing components on an obsolete modem board. This thread helped the build go very smoothly, no issues. I LIKE the plexiglass, gives it a military tech look.
av500
GSE wrote:
Just built one of these and it came out great. My first SMD build, thanks to years of soldering. And practicing first by removing/placing components on an obsolete modem board. This thread helped the build go very smoothly, no issues. I LIKE the plexiglass, gives it a military tech look.


that's great, enjoy! smile
spoor
av500 wrote:

T? means there is no trigger detected. looks to me like the analog input channels are not working. if you have a scope you could check the signal at the output of the opamp, R2 and R4 (pads facing the opamp) can easily be accessed from the side even with the jacks PCB mounted. also check the polarity of D2 and the voltage at R13/C3 should read -2.5V

if you just plug a cable into CH1 and CH2, the voltage at R2 and R4 should be around 1.65V


Well, I'm now the proud parent of 2 working ZeroScopes. I tried and failed all the voltage tests above (was getting 0v), so re-flowed again at all of those points, and it now works! I'm not sure which bit fixed it, but the joint on D2 looked a bit suspect / dull.

Thanks again - I'm feeling very pleased - I look forward to doing more of your projects.
pppier
[quote="av500"
what you can do is to check that GND and VCC show 0 and 3.3V and if you have a scope - I mean, you have a scope, but this one cant be used to measure itself smile then you can check that the signals on D0, D1, DC and CS look OK.[/quote]


I built 2 zeroscopes. one is ok love (av500 thank you)
but one (I'm trying the 1,3" display) make an error
checking signals at display pins I measure 6,4V at VCC, D1, RES DC and CS instead of 3,3.
(VDDA on the board is 3,3; IC5 put is -2,5V as it should, signals at Debug pins seems tha same between the 2 boards. also IC1 gives me 0; 3,3 ad 3,3)

It's like the CPU gives 6,5V instead of 3,3 but I don't understand why (it is correctly feeded if I understand... seriously, i just don't get it ).
I hope to solve and it can be useful for someone else.
is there something I can check?
av500
pppier wrote:

I hope to solve and it can be useful for someone else.
is there something I can check?


hmm, 1.3", I never tried that - but let's see:



I would say it looks the same here. some Googling says there are two different controller chips, the 0.96 uses SSD1306 (and that's what the ZeroScope supports) and many 1.3" use SH1106....
antf4rm
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(
av500
antf4rm wrote:
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(


hard to diagnose from here, but a high res photo of the backside might ive a clue
antf4rm
av500 wrote:
antf4rm wrote:
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(


hard to diagnose from here, but a high res photo of the backside might ive a clue


Here's that photo. I removed the 3.3 regulator for replacement as i think it got fried in whatever happened when i plugged a signal into the trigger input. Any insight is appreciated.

av500
antf4rm wrote:
av500 wrote:
antf4rm wrote:
Mine worked until i plugged a signal into the trig input. Now it just gets warm with no display. :(


hard to diagnose from here, but a high res photo of the backside might ive a clue


Here's that photo. I removed the 3.3 regulator for replacement as i think it got fried in whatever happened when i plugged a signal into the trigger input. Any insight is appreciated.



hmm, looks all OK to me. can you measure the resistance from the trigger input to GND with a cable plugged? but I don't see how it can fry the regulator. there is a 100k resistor on the trigger input, not much current can flow there.
antf4rm
Resistance from trigger input to GND with cable plugged is 1.1Mohm.
I'm going to get another 3.3v regulator and try to fire it up again.
strange tales
Would I be able to buy a set of the glass or whatever it is to put over my screen? Opening it up I accidentally scattered it across my living room never to be seen again.

Other than that, already love this thing and I'm angry I didn't built it sooner.
av500
strange tales wrote:
Would I be able to buy a set of the glass or whatever it is to put over my screen? Opening it up I accidentally scattered it across my living room never to be seen again.

Other than that, already love this thing and I'm angry I didn't built it sooner.


no problem, PM me your address or send me a mail
fuzzbass
Late to the party but just got my Zeroscope running! Amazing deal this is, and I'm so happy it has free running and frequency measurement/tuning mode. Thanks so much for this!

This is a good intro project for someone just getting into SMD construction. The circuit is simple and easy to troubleshoot. All the innards are really in the code, and my processor came pre-installed and flashed.
av500
fuzzbass wrote:
Late to the party but just got my Zeroscope running! Amazing deal this is, and I'm so happy it has free running and frequency measurement/tuning mode. Thanks so much for this!

This is a good intro project for someone just getting into SMD construction. The circuit is simple and easy to troubleshoot. All the innards are really in the code, and my processor came pre-installed and flashed.


thanks! enjoy! smile
metabaron24
I'm really new at this game, so I need to ask one of these questions that probably everyone takes for granted as I couldn't find anyone asking it in 14 pages of thread. I'm compiling parts for the Zscope and buiding courage to build it.

Here goes:
I understand that for the power connection a 16pin to 16pin cable is required (as opposed to 10pin to 16pin). Does that imply that it reads or even sends CV and gate signals from/on the busboard?

help
av500
metabaron24 wrote:
I'm really new at this game, so I need to ask one of these questions that probably everyone takes for granted as I couldn't find anyone asking it in 14 pages of thread. I'm compiling parts for the Zscope and buiding courage to build it.

Here goes:
I understand that for the power connection a 16pin to 16pin cable is required (as opposed to 10pin to 16pin). Does that imply that it reads or even sends CV and gate signals from/on the busboard?

help


Hi,

no it does not read the CV/gate signals, nor does it use the 5V - actually I don't remember any more why I put a 16 pin power connector there smile you can of course solder only a 2x5 if you want...
metabaron24
Thanks! That's what I call a fast response. hyper
Multi Grooves
I've never done any smd. Has anyone here done this build as their first and how long did it take you? How much less reading did it take? Etc...
fuzzbass
Multi Grooves wrote:
I've never done any smd. Has anyone here done this build as their first and how long did it take you? How much less reading did it take? Etc...


This project is a good staring point for SMD. There is not a lot of it, board comes with a pre-programmed MCU. 0805 not 0603! Decent documentation. It can be done with a soldering wand. I probably spent 90 minutes on this but I have smd specific tools (paste dispenser, hot air station - if you don't have these things then at minimum get a no clean flux pen and use no clean solder wire .031 or thinner). It might take longer with basic tools. I didn't read anything except the BOM and user manual.

Get some magnification.

THE trick with smd is limiting the amount of solder going on. If you end up in the situation where you need to remove excessive solder, things get hairy because the tiny pads are easy to lift.

Also, if you use paste I strongly recommend you use lead free. You don't want those tiny beads of waste to contain lead.
Multi Grooves
Cheers for coming back to me. I did invest in an SMD iron...but no experience of using it.

Are these to be ordered directly from manufacturer- I couldn't find anything on Thonk?
metabaron24
Quote:
Are these to be ordered directly from manufacturer- I couldn't find anything on Thonk?


Absolutely. It's in the first page of this thread.
cannonball swandive
Is there an alternative for the LD1117S33TR? Can’t find it in stock anywhere.
Altitude909
cannonball swandive wrote:
Is there an alternative for the LD1117S33TR? Can’t find it in stock anywhere.


LM1117MPX-3.3/NOPB
cannonball swandive
Thanks!
metabaron24
So I built mine. SMD is scary but I had some help and teaching for part of the build. But no luck for me. Nothing happens at all. It doesn't even power on, screen stays dark. waah
Plus it quickly develops heat in the region between the screen and the first encoder. Hope I haven't already fried anything when I had it connnected to power for two minutes or so.

I will take my time troubleshooting. My first idea is this:
In the BOM it says: Diode D3 only needed to power from debug header. I didn't really know what to make of that and installed D3 as well as the debug header. Can that be the problem? Does it expect a different power source now? If I intend to power it from my Doepfer A100 DIY supply, do I have to take out D3?

I really don't understand a whole lot of electronics, and just thought I'd give it a go. Now is the time for learning Mr. Green
av500
metabaron24 wrote:
So I built mine. SMD is scary but I had some help and teaching for part of the build. But no luck for me. Nothing happens at all. It doesn't even power on, screen stays dark. waah
Plus it quickly develops heat in the region between the screen and the first encoder. Hope I haven't already fried anything when I had it connnected to power for two minutes or so.

I will take my time troubleshooting. My first idea is this:
In the BOM it says: Diode D3 only needed to power from debug header. I didn't really know what to make of that and installed D3 as well as the debug header. Can that be the problem? Does it expect a different power source now? If I intend to power it from my Doepfer A100 DIY supply, do I have to take out D3?

I really don't understand a whole lot of electronics, and just thought I'd give it a go. Now is the time for learning Mr. Green


installing D3 and the debug header is fine, that does not change normal operation. heat in that region is most likely the 3.3V regulator, so I fear you have a short to GND on the 3.3V line somewhere. if you have a multimeter, please measure the resistance to GND. between the 3V3 test point and GND and also between the VDDA test point and GND.

Also posting a high res image of the back here might let me spot the error.
metabaron24
Thanks for yet another superquick answer. I will test that and get back to you, it's good to have a first line of enquiry.

One more question: my PCB came not only with R12, R14, C31 and IC7 preinstalled -like it says in the BOM- but also C6 and C9 in that same region around IC7. Is that what it was supposed to be like? (It gave me a bit of a shock when two caps were left over and then I realized what was going on hmmm..... d'oh! )
av500
metabaron24 wrote:
Thanks for yet another superquick answer. I will test that and get back to you, it's good to have a first line of enquiry.

One more question: my PCB came not only with R12, R14, C31 and IC7 preinstalled -like it says in the BOM- but also C6 and C9 in that same region around IC7. Is that what it was supposed to be like? (It gave me a bit of a shock when two caps were left over and then I realized what was going on hmmm..... d'oh! )


yes. I need to update the wording in the build guide. sorry for the confusion smile
fuzzbass
metabaron24 wrote:
So I built mine. SMD is scary but I had some help and teaching for part of the build. But no luck for me. Nothing happens at all. It doesn't even power on, screen stays dark. waah
Plus it quickly develops heat in the region between the screen and the first encoder. Hope I haven't already fried anything when I had it connnected to power for two minutes or so.

I will take my time troubleshooting. My first idea is this:
In the BOM it says: Diode D3 only needed to power from debug header. I didn't really know what to make of that and installed D3 as well as the debug header. Can that be the problem? Does it expect a different power source now? If I intend to power it from my Doepfer A100 DIY supply, do I have to take out D3?

I really don't understand a whole lot of electronics, and just thought I'd give it a go. Now is the time for learning Mr. Green


My bet is on a short between the +3.3V regulator's output and ground. LDO regulators seem to have built in short protection, they just drop their output voltage, warm up a bit and wait for the problem to get sorted out. Check the decoupling caps (C1, C9, C10, C25, C26, C31) on the +3.3V power rail to see if any have a solder bridge underneath. Its usually apparent under magnification.
LetterBeacon
This looks like an awesome project! Do you think the frequency counter/ tuner is accurate enough to calibrate a VCO?
zombierock123
Just wondering if there's a minimum post count to be able to order one of these kits? Looks awesome!
av500
zombierock123 wrote:
Just wondering if there's a minimum post count to be able to order one of these kits? Looks awesome!


no, just email me smile vp (at) vpme (dot) de
av500
LetterBeacon wrote:
This looks like an awesome project! Do you think the frequency counter/ tuner is accurate enough to calibrate a VCO?


I have one customer using it on stage in triple tuner mode all the time, tuning his (drifting) VCOs between songs.
metabaron24
Quote:
please measure the resistance to GND. between the 3V3 test point and GND and also between the VDDA test point and GND.


OK, that's what my multimeter schowed me: Resistance to Ground between V3.3 and VDDA test point is reliably 547 Ohm sweet Ohms +- 1 Ohm

What does it tell me though? seriously, i just don't get it

Quote:
Check the decoupling caps (C1, C9, C10, C25, C26, C31) on the +3.3V power rail to see if any have a solder bridge underneath. Its usually apparent under magnification.


I soldered under a mganifying glass and checked everything multiple times under a magnifying glass


As far as I can tell there are no solder bridges under any of the above caps.
I do have solder bridges though. From what little I can tell from schematics I thought they should not be a problem. Here's what I have:

Looks like a solder bridge between D2 and L2 and another candidate for a solder bridge are L2 and R13, another possibility between C4 and R16. IC1 and IC5 look very clean. The solder stayed where it should.

And here's something else: While soldering the 7-pin display pins, some solder flowed into two pin holes of the row of 6 below. Counted from the left that is #3 and #5.

The best news is this: I'm meeting up with my electronics friend tomorrow and he's confident that we'll sort it out. That's why I'm holding off with pictures for the moment. I'm definitely going to report back what the mistake was so that people can avoid making the same mistake.

Stay tuned
av500
if you desolder L3 you can quickly check if the short is on the 3V3 or the VDDA side, see schematics

metabaron24 wrote:
Quote:
please measure the resistance to GND. between the 3V3 test point and GND and also between the VDDA test point and GND.


OK, that's what my multimeter schowed me: Resistance to Ground between V3.3 and VDDA test point is reliably 547 Ohm sweet Ohms +- 1 Ohm

What does it tell me though? seriously, i just don't get it

Quote:
Check the decoupling caps (C1, C9, C10, C25, C26, C31) on the +3.3V power rail to see if any have a solder bridge underneath. Its usually apparent under magnification.


I soldered under a mganifying glass and checked everything multiple times under a magnifying glass


As far as I can tell there are no solder bridges under any of the above caps.
I do have solder bridges though. From what little I can tell from schematics I thought they should not be a problem. Here's what I have:

Looks like a solder bridge between D2 and L2 and another candidate for a solder bridge are L2 and R13, another possibility between C4 and R16. IC1 and IC5 look very clean. The solder stayed where it should.

And here's something else: While soldering the 7-pin display pins, some solder flowed into two pin holes of the row of 6 below. Counted from the left that is #3 and #5.

The best news is this: I'm meeting up with my electronics friend tomorrow and he's confident that we'll sort it out. That's why I'm holding off with pictures for the moment. I'm definitely going to report back what the mistake was so that people can avoid making the same mistake.

Stay tuned
metabaron24
Problem solved!! Guinness ftw!

The scope is up and running. Great little fellow it is.

The mistake was embarassingly simple. IC2 was installed with the wrong polarity d'oh! Nothing much to learn there. The good side of the coin is all the SMD soldering that I did was good enough for the thing to work. It's peanut butter jelly time!

Thanks again for the help and advice
breadman
Hi all! Finished mine tonight and fired it up, and it's working with a few peculiarities--pressing the top encoder only toggles the module between Pong and Scope mode, rather than going to any sort of settings menu, and the module says "<AB swapped>" when I power it on. I'm also using a v1.3 board and the first time it powered up it said v1.3, but now the firmware says v1.2. Inputs seem to work though. Anyone have an idea what's going on here?
batchas
breadman wrote:
and the module says "<AB swapped>" when I power it on.

Does it not mean something is mounted reverse? It's a question, i have no idea, just the terms "AB swapped" which catched my attention (hardware)
Or is it "swap" like swapping variables in C++? (software/firmware)
More likely firmware.
av500
seems like the lower encoder button is permanently pressed. check the solder pads of this encoder and the 10 pin header for a short to ground. sometimes the solder mask can get scratched and if you have too much solder on the pad it can short to ground.
breadman
av500 wrote:
seems like the lower encoder button is permanently pressed. check the solder pads of this encoder and the 10 pin header for a short to ground. sometimes the solder mask can get scratched and if you have too much solder on the pad it can short to ground.


Thanks for the tip, found a joint shorted to ground and cleaned it up. Working great now!
av500
applause
batchas
breadman wrote:
Thanks for the tip, found a joint shorted to ground and cleaned it up. Working great now!

Always looks very simple once we found out thumbs up
cannonball swandive
Is this project open source?
av500
no
Chopper
A bit of a long shot, but how difficult/possible would it be to have a video out from this module?
av500
it would take a lot. the CPU in the scope is tiny and cannot handle video out. so you would need to design some kind of add-on that grabs the display data going to the OLED and converts that into some analog or digital video signal.
OB1
Do you still have the PCB kits available?
av500
OB1 wrote:
Do you still have the PCB kits available?


yup (please use email for orders)
OB1
Awesome thanks, will do on payday ;-)
MakingSoundMachines
pppier wrote:


We can confirm that this happens when the display has the other (wrong = SH1106) chipset. Don't ask how we found out cool

Anyway we swapped the display for one with the correct chipset (SSD1306) and our build works perfectly now.

So beware if you have displays left over from your o_C build, like in our case, it might not be one with the correct chipset for zeroscope! Better test before you solder Dead Banana

Edit: Link to display that worked for us
av500
even if they worked, cutting them down to size is not easy wink
adderbrew
This project looks awesome and I'm excited to build it. That being said, it appears that several of the parts from the Mouser cart are on backorder. What other sites would people recommend for me to order from? I'm fine with larger quantities, as I would like to start building more modules.
av500
adderbrew wrote:
This project looks awesome and I'm excited to build it. That being said, it appears that several of the parts from the Mouser cart are on backorder. What other sites would people recommend for me to order from? I'm fine with larger quantities, as I would like to start building more modules.


thanks for the praise smile

as for the Mouser cart, sadly I cannot make one that says buy a generic 100k 0805 resistor, so they are always tied to a certain manufacturer and these come and go out of stock. I just looked at the cart and all parts are available from Mouser if you pick a different manufacturer. I will try to update the cart when I get back home.
adderbrew
av500 wrote:
adderbrew wrote:
This project looks awesome and I'm excited to build it. That being said, it appears that several of the parts from the Mouser cart are on backorder. What other sites would people recommend for me to order from? I'm fine with larger quantities, as I would like to start building more modules.


thanks for the praise smile

as for the Mouser cart, sadly I cannot make one that says buy a generic 100k 0805 resistor, so they are always tied to a certain manufacturer and these come and go out of stock. I just looked at the cart and all parts are available from Mouser if you pick a different manufacturer. I will try to update the cart when I get back home.


You are a saint, thank you smile Checking out your other work now!
av500
ok, mouser cart updated
Luap
I see some mutterings over in the eurocrack forum about a v1.6 firmware update?
Does updating require a programmer of some description? If so then i'll probably make do without, but if theres no special tools or rocket science involved to update then i'd give it a go Guinness ftw!
av500
Luap wrote:
I see some mutterings over in the eurocrack forum about a v1.6 firmware update?
Does updating require a programmer of some description? If so then i'll probably make do without, but if theres no special tools or rocket science involved to update then i'd give it a go Guinness ftw!


it depends on what firmware you have. new firmwares since 1.5 have a bootloader and allow SW updates via a WAV file. for older ones you would need an STLINK programmer. see the manual here about how to perform the update via WAV:

https://vpme.de/zeroscope/
av500
for updates via STLINK, see the guide here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0ByXqLcOF-aBUdDBNMWNqejdRRXM?us p=sharing

and use the file zs_combo_v1.6.bin
Luap
av500 wrote:
Luap wrote:
I see some mutterings over in the eurocrack forum about a v1.6 firmware update?
Does updating require a programmer of some description? If so then i'll probably make do without, but if theres no special tools or rocket science involved to update then i'd give it a go Guinness ftw!


it depends on what firmware you have. new firmwares since 1.5 have a bootloader and allow SW updates via a WAV file. for older ones you would need an STLINK programmer. see the manual here about how to perform the update via WAV:

https://vpme.de/zeroscope/



Mine is an early'ish one I think, with v1.3 on it.
I'll look into the STLINK thing however.

While im here.. Is there a firmware change log to be found somewhere? I had a quick look around but didn't happen to find one.

Thanks thumbs up
av500
Luap wrote:
^ Mine is an early'ish one I think, with v1.3 on it.
I'll look into the STLINK thing however.

While im here.. Is there a firmware change log to be found somewhere? I had a quick look around but didn't happen to find one.

Thanks thumbs up


there have not been many changes before 1.5, just minor bug fixes. and the new features are in the 1.5 manual
Luap
I couldn't help but notice.. 'Four Scope' ?

I happened to spot it in DivKids video, altho it is about 2 other modules..
( https://youtu.be/VOByFD7B7ME?t=59 )
av500
Luap wrote:
I couldn't help but notice.. 'Four Scope' ?

I happened to spot it in DivKids video, altho it is about 2 other modules..
( https://youtu.be/VOByFD7B7ME?t=59 )


it's a concept study, not a product yet wink
Luap
! I think you are faster at replying to product threads than Mr Mutable! thumbs up
Silver
I thought I saw a 1u zeroscope somewhere too???
euromorcego
Silver wrote:
I thought I saw a 1u zeroscope somewhere too???

Intellijel showed a 1u scope based on the zeroscope ... he wants to turn it into a product (or so he said).
av500
euromorcego wrote:
Silver wrote:
I thought I saw a 1u zeroscope somewhere too???

Intellijel showed a 1u scope based on the zeroscope ... he wants to turn it into a product (or so he said).


smile
Silver
applause
so does this mean no DIY version of it though? or any chance there will be a pulp logic 1u format?
av500
Silver wrote:
applause
so does this mean no DIY version of it though? or any chance there will be a pulp logic 1u format?


I doubt IJ will make a pulp format 1U. as for DIY I cannot say at the moment. but it does not take readily available OLEDs on carrier PCBs anyway
euromorcego
Silver wrote:
applause
so does this mean no DIY version of it though? or any chance there will be a pulp logic 1u format?

i'd also say an IJ DIY version is very very unlikely. But the IJ 1U modules can be easily adapted to pulplogic specs (all you need is a custom faceplate). Vice verse this is not possible.

So if the price of the IJ scope is good, it may be worthwhile to make a few custom panels.
av500
Updated the DIY BOM and build guide for the 2.2 version, this one moves the components from the back of the front panel to the main PCB. parts are more or less all the same. order away smile
gadgadasvara
hi guys,
i just got my kit from modular addict, i was about to assemble all the parts then i noticed there’s a different component between the BOM and the pre-installed one.
from the BOM version 1.3,
R12 : 330R
R14 : 10K
are pre-assembled. but when i looked at the board, it got installed different value, which are 2.2K at R12 and R14. am i missing some information regarding the board rev 1.4? (i couldn’t find any document about rev 1.4, only v1.3, and then v.2.2 in this forum). or is this a wrong pre-assembled resistor that i should change?
thank you.
gadgadasvara
nevermind then, i just emailed vladimir, and got a quick response. my bad about the 2.2K, it is 220R.

thanks so much!

here's his reply
Hi there,

it's not 2.2k but 220R and it's ok, it will work just fine. for both resistors the exact value does not matter

Regards,

Vladimir
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