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[Build Thread] Jasper, an EDP Wasp Clone
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 28, 29, 30 [all]
Author [Build Thread] Jasper, an EDP Wasp Clone
sizone
JuNo1O6 wrote:
I posted this in the other thread (which may have not been the right place). But could anyone link me to a 3 way hold switch and a trigger jack please, I've been looking everywhere and some help would be appreciated smile


smallbear
JuNo1O6
sizone wrote:
JuNo1O6 wrote:
I posted this in the other thread (which may have not been the right place). But could anyone link me to a 3 way hold switch and a trigger jack please, I've been looking everywhere and some help would be appreciated smile


smallbear


Thanks!
prae
it seems that 3x50K Lin: VR1, VR4, VR6 is out of stock from musikding. you can use these instead (i think)


https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV24AF-40-15R1-B50 K-3LA?qs=8%252br4Hz5Xir%252bftq1GoUwGtA%3d%3d
3phase





Hi there, thanks to Jason for this Project, was looking for wasp since many years and his board mande it quite easy to get finally get one.

I post this since i think thats good manners when doing such web born projects, and to point to a few details that might help other builders.

I run my Jasper from a USB Battery pack for mobile phones..it gives straight 5 volts, has over 2 amperes, lasts really long with the Jasper, and is rechargeable. I connect via an USB socket so the jasper can be powered from an usb hub too.

I dont like connections on the side of synths..so I placed the jacks lookin upward in the back like with the original wasp.

I used Jasons Midi board but added a midi thru circuit on a little extra board.. Synths without midi thru are a pain in the ass on stage settups and its just 2 extra transistors.. maybe an idea for future versions of that midi board?

the 6 minijacks on the right side are the ext input and ext gate.. the other 4 dont have a function yet. act as mult for now. I would like to have cv control ability..but not sure yet how to get that.. Would it be possible to update the midiboard to accept additional pitch cv input? Havent bothered to add a buffer for VCA and filter CV control yet, when ther is no pitch CV aswell.

I used a little speaker cabinet from an old laptop as speaker for the jasper.. gives less volume than the wasp style speaker, but has better lowend so its quite realistic what you hear from the speaker and can be used as little monitor for the player to hear at the synth more than makes it into the mix of a session.. therefore the speaker has an extra switch and the speaker of swith on the line out got disabled.. not the the most battery conserving way.. but that usb battery pack really lasts and lasts.. I used an LM386-1 as speaker amp since its already able to overload the laptop speakers i use here.. so some battery saving here.

Additional mods..

1) a switch that disables glide for the upper oscillator.. so when set toward the lower osc, only that osc gets the glide.

2) a switch that adds a 22uF bipolar cap in paralel to the 1 uF LFO speed cap.. makes the LFO speed significantly slower..

3) original ca3080 in the filter and vca

sounds more distorted and fatter than the 13700´s.. but teh 13700´s are not bad really..more detailed and dry actually gives better food for fx and more variance in the sound. The old ca3080 with the higher distortion cloud some differences between settings.. but i like the general character and resonance.. 2 different chips seem to add a little colour to the filter than having the way closer matched one chip lm13700 solution, which has bit tighter modulation, by that closer matching. Wasnt so easy to decide really..so when no ca3080 fly around i would suggest to forget about that.. I needed to remove the extra resistor in the vca to make the envelope closing, so back to original wasp circuit..

I also tried NE555 as source oscillators.. Her i had a more clear opinion about better or not.. I do think they sound better, more charming, somehow a little rounder, more alive. But no way to get the jasper tuned than.. So i had to decide against them for now.

Why is that? has the original wasp used a special type of ne555?
Any ideas on that topic?

Anyway..no its time to makes some sounds with this.. i will have to replace some pots at a later point anyway.. got ripped off with cheapest china trash by a specialized german music DIY supplier. By now i think its risky to use other sources than mouser or thonk for such important parts like pots and switches. As bigger the supplier as less risk for china trash fake parts

greets,
3phase




aabbcc
3phase wrote:





Hi there, thanks to Jason for this Project, was looking for wasp since many years and his board mande it quite easy to get finally get one.

I post this since i think thats good manners when doing such web born projects, and to point to a few details that might help other builders.

I run my Jasper from a USB Battery pack for mobile phones..it gives straight 5 volts, has over 2 amperes, lasts really long with the Jasper, and is rechargeable. I connect via an USB socket so the jasper can be powered from an usb hub too.

I dont like connections on the side of synths..so I placed the jacks lookin upward in the back like with the original wasp.

I used Jasons Midi board but added a midi thru circuit on a little extra board.. Synths without midi thru are a pain in the ass on stage settups and its just 2 extra transistors.. maybe an idea for future versions of that midi board?

the 6 minijacks on the right side are the ext input and ext gate.. the other 4 dont have a function yet. act as mult for now. I would like to have cv control ability..but not sure yet how to get that.. Would it be possible to update the midiboard to accept additional pitch cv input? Havent bothered to add a buffer for VCA and filter CV control yet, when ther is no pitch CV aswell.

I used a little speaker cabinet from an old laptop as speaker for the jasper.. gives less volume than the wasp style speaker, but has better lowend so its quite realistic what you hear from the speaker and can be used as little monitor for the player to hear at the synth more than makes it into the mix of a session.. therefore the speaker has an extra switch and the speaker of swith on the line out got disabled.. not the the most battery conserving way.. but that usb battery pack really lasts and lasts.. I used an LM386-1 as speaker amp since its already able to overload the laptop speakers i use here.. so some battery saving here.

Additional mods..

1) a switch that disables glide for the upper oscillator.. so when set toward the lower osc, only that osc gets the glide.

2) a switch that adds a 22uF bipolar cap in paralel to the 1 uF LFO speed cap.. makes the LFO speed significantly slower..

3) original ca3080 in the filter and vca

sounds more distorted and fatter than the 13700´s.. but teh 13700´s are not bad really..more detailed and dry actually gives better food for fx and more variance in the sound. The old ca3080 with the higher distortion cloud some differences between settings.. but i like the general character and resonance.. 2 different chips seem to add a little colour to the filter than having the way closer matched one chip lm13700 solution, which has bit tighter modulation, by that closer matching. Wasnt so easy to decide really..so when no ca3080 fly around i would suggest to forget about that.. I needed to remove the extra resistor in the vca to make the envelope closing, so back to original wasp circuit..

I also tried NE555 as source oscillators.. Her i had a more clear opinion about better or not.. I do think they sound better, more charming, somehow a little rounder, more alive. But no way to get the jasper tuned than.. So i had to decide against them for now.

Why is that? has the original wasp used a special type of ne555?
Any ideas on that topic?

Anyway..no its time to makes some sounds with this.. i will have to replace some pots at a later point anyway.. got ripped off with cheapest china trash by a specialized german music DIY supplier. By now i think its risky to use other sources than mouser or thonk for such important parts like pots and switches. As bigger the supplier as less risk for china trash fake parts

greets,
3phase






Very nice!

There is the jasperin which has midi, cv/gate smile https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=171543

Also how did you do that midi thru circuit? I'd love to add it to my jasper midi board, could just use a some perf/veroboard
3phase
aabbcc wrote:


Very nice!

There is the jasperin which has midi, cv/gate smile https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=171543

Also how did you do that midi thru circuit? I'd love to add it to my jasper midi board, could just use a some perf/veroboard


I ve seen that, but i got Jasons Board now build in, and wonder wheter such an atmel chip could mange that task too..or even a simple sequencer???
One day i ve to learn programming that things.. but too much soldering stuff already to extend my programming skills beyond sequence patching.


For the midi thru i just copied the JUNO 106 circuit for that part, from R9,R7,R8,R11,TR2 and TR3. since it appeard the easiest way to do it. But any other ic buffer based circuit will probably do too.. midi is not that fast really. I didnt bother to copy the juno 106 circuit for the 5Vollt midi line.. i will check with my anatecs if that was a mistake or not..for now its just a 220 ohm resistor to the Jasper 5V.. just like done with the midi output on that board.. My guess is that the extra roland circuit is to protect the synth from external influences via the midi power line.. which actually might be a good idea..on the other hands we are no midi beginners anymore as in the early 80´s and wouldnt connect the jasper to wonky first generation midi ports..or? ok..with modern equipment you never know.
prae
just starting on my board now as we speak. what temp did you folk use with your irons? the one at my college lab (which i have used before for many projects) seems to be melting the coating on the board a bit much. is this a problem?
belzrebuth
I've just finished building two units and I'm on my third (this is for a friend).
Both worked beautifully since first power on razz

Only thing I'm missing is the knobs.

The Cliff knobs mentioned in the Jasper Construction guide are on stock at TME.eu but I'm wondering if I've made the right choices.

I've used lorlin ck1049 switches and Alpha pots from Newtone.

For the pots I think these knobs may be appropriate:

Knob K21 Black ¼” Screw Fix
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178887/

For the switches:

Knob K21 Black 6mm Screw Fix
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cliff/ cl178884/

And for the (provided) Omeg Switches:

Knob K21 Black ¼” D shaft
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35d/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178886/

Here's a datasheet listing all the K21 knobs:
https://www.tme.eu/en/Document/19ac9a8c555915f24f138a84cfaec4ea/K21Rot aryKnob.pdf

Are my choices correct?!
Should I proceed with my knob order?
Thanks:)
duff
The 1/4” D will definitely fit the Omegs supplied by Jason if they are the same as previous batches.

For the alpha and Lorin it depends on what shaft you got as they come in 6mm & 1/4”, round or D. The 1/4” screw fit are a relatively safe option in all cases. They can be put on 6mm and D shafts, although will be fractionally less snug if on a 6mm or D. When I ran the Cliff knob group buys most people went for 1/4” screw fit across the board.
belzrebuth
The shaft diameter of the Lorlin switches is 6mm.
That's why I went for the 6mm screw fix knob.
I don't know if the 1/4" knobs will fit as tight on the 6mm shaft and the switches need a lot more force than regular potentiometers do.

The switch shaft is cylindrical so I may have to file it flat for the screw to snug in place.

Have anyone used a 1/4" knob for a 6mm shaft switch?
Is it tight enough?

The pot knobs are probably okay since they're 6.35mm and I'm going for 1/4" knobs (not D shaft though as the shafts are all-round).
duff
Sounds like your choices are correct then.
ashleym
prae wrote:
just starting on my board now as we speak. what temp did you folk use with your irons? the one at my college lab (which i have used before for many projects) seems to be melting the coating on the board a bit much. is this a problem?


Set your iron to the temperature the solder needs. Part of what you’re “melting” can be the flux or roisin from the solder. Have a google or look at reliable manufacturers sites

Wartons
MetroJuno121
belzrebuth wrote:
The shaft diameter of the Lorlin switches is 6mm.
That's why I went for the 6mm screw fix knob.
I don't know if the 1/4" knobs will fit as tight on the 6mm shaft and the switches need a lot more force than regular potentiometers do.

The switch shaft is cylindrical so I may have to file it flat for the screw to snug in place.

Have anyone used a 1/4" knob for a 6mm shaft switch?
Is it tight enough?

The pot knobs are probably okay since they're 6.35mm and I'm going for 1/4" knobs (not D shaft though as the shafts are all-round).


Yes, I used all one size screw fit knobs with no problems. No filing of the shafts, as the screw bites very well.
belzrebuth
MetroJuno121 wrote:

Yes, I used all one size screw fit knobs with no problems. No filing of the shafts, as the screw bites very well.


So you've used these https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178887/ for everything?
If this was the exact type and fit all the knobs I may go one size for all too.
MetroJuno121
belzrebuth wrote:
MetroJuno121 wrote:

Yes, I used all one size screw fit knobs with no problems. No filing of the shafts, as the screw bites very well.


So you've used these https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178887/ for everything?
If this was the exact type and fit all the knobs I may go one size for all too.


Yes, 27 of them K21-6.35S and 30 (min order) yellow caps K21-YELLOW-L

belzrebuth
Very nice case!

My knobs arrived earlier today.
They fit nicely when screwed.

There is only issue with the Omeg switch knobs I got.
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35d/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178886/

Since they fit only in one way (D-shaft) I can't seem to get the cap marking to align perfectly with the panel marking; it's marginal but still annoying.

I think I should've gone with the same type of knob throughout the whole board as suggested.
The rotary switches may be better with the 6mm variant though.
I may get some 6mm knobs to verify it.

Another issue that I just noticed is than when I plug my headphones I only get sound from one channel (with the jack pushed all the way in).
When the jack is 2/3 in I get both channels..

I have a similar issue with the line out too..
When I plugged a 3.5mm mono jack to 6.35mm jack all I got was hum and intermittent audio.
I ended up using a trs minijack to a mono 6.35 jack.
I shorted the third conductor (ring) to the sleeve on the minijack both going to the sleeve of the 6.35 jack.
Wracked with Guilt
Just finished my Jasper, powered it up and blimey, it sounds exactly like my original EDP Wasp. This was my first DIY project so many we're not worthy Jason for all the love and care he'd put into the project resulting in a relatively painless and trouble free experience.

Now the only question remains what knobs have our American/Canadian builders used for their Jaspers?

I've yet to find anything suitable this side of the Atlantic and I don't really fancy ordering from the UK/EU when Canadian customs held my last Thonk package for 3 weeks.

Thanks in advance Guinness ftw!
belzrebuth
Can one use this type of rotary switch

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/ro tary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-6-position-alpha-sr2511-3595-3586.htm l

side cutting the legs accordingly to fit the fit the pcb?

I've got one more jasper coming and I'm trying to avoid the cost of Lorlin switches..
duff
belzrebuth wrote:
Can one use this type of rotary switch

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/ro tary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-6-position-alpha-sr2511-3595-3586.htm l

side cutting the legs accordingly to fit the fit the pcb?

I've got one more jasper coming and I'm trying to avoid the cost of Lorlin switches..


I know the Alphas in the BOM work and I picked them up for much less than the Lorins - https://www.rapidonline.com/taiwan-alpha-sr2612020638f5bd-make-before- break-2-pole-6w-pcb-rotary-switch-79-0205

Looking at the data sheets shows that the model stocked by Tayda has its pins in smaller diameter rings - for example 22 mm vs 19.98 for the outer ring. So you might be able to make it work, but it won’t just slot in with the legs chopped.
belzrebuth
The Alphas you've linked are indeed much cheaper but rapid's shipping and handling cost is ridiculous..
The switches cost 6.5€ and the total order cost after VAT and P&P is 38.5€. woah
Τhere are slightly cheaper alternatives to the Lorlin switches; the ones that really look like them but I don't know what their brand is.
It doesn't really worth it though as the price is really close.
tommy.york
Feels like I have the VCA envelope working, but I don't have control over the filter via the pot or envelope, though the LFO works a bit. The end result is that the HP works, but is always fully open, and that the LP sounds like it is filter at like 50hz or something. Just sub frequencies. Any guesses as to what's going on?

(Attaching the following picture because the resized picture shows up without detail).
Europa313
Got a 2 builds here

1 has got the filter/res that doesn't self oscilliate clean. High pitched self-oscilliation sounds grainy/noisy. Help

The vca enveloppe repeat that repeats but there are some rests.its not steady, kinda shuffle (?) Help

The other build plays a single octave from the keyboard. All other keys sound the same note
Help
Gtrgeek1
Hey all, Before I chop the keyboard off and turn this kit into a rackmount, has anyone tried this or experienced any problems? I only use a MIDI controller/Sequencer. I am not cutting down my completed unit, I purchased another kit to hopefully cut down.

Thx!
belzrebuth
I've built a metal (iron) case for my jasper wasp..
Forum member chrisp designed and constructed the end product.
I think it looks good.
It weighs about 4Kgs.
It has 1/4" jacks for the output, phones and ext in in the back.
The empty hole is for the midi channel pushbutton.

I may be able to make arrangements for a limited number of cases for anyone interested; aluminum is also an option if weight is a concern but it will raise the cost significantly..

PM for details..
(keyboard screws were not attached when I took the photos but there are holes to mount 5mm spacers and nuts to accomodate the two kbd screws)


https://ibb.co/hn9XfL
https://ibb.co/kBYQ0L
https://ibb.co/mf2Dn0
https://ibb.co/kCBv0L
https://ibb.co/eeNw70
https://ibb.co/b6acEf
https://ibb.co/gwdsfL
https://ibb.co/dWoVZf
https://ibb.co/hfOVZf
oblongcat
Help please,

Everything works as it should, except I have some sort of ground issue (perhaps?!).

When using the keyboard the pitch becomes unstable, especially for the lower frequency keys (it randomly jumps all over the place). However, when I put my finger on the top right ground point (or any other ground point), the problem goes away and it works fine.

Other information: it seems to operate fine when using hold (i.e. not using the keyboard). Also it behave a lot better (although maybe not quite perfect) when operating from batteries.

Please could someone with more electronics knowledge point me in the right direction of what might be going on? seriously, i just don't get it
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