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[Build Thread] Jasper, an EDP Wasp Clone
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Author [Build Thread] Jasper, an EDP Wasp Clone
jasonl
25 January 2017 - 4th run PCBs - ready to ship

It's been too long. Anyway the 4th run PCBs are ready to be shipped.

Essentially the PCB is the same as the previous versions - but I wanted to update the silkscreen to match the current BOM.

A Mea Culpa - I was also tempted to adjust the 'phones out to enable the use of mono Cliff jack sockets as well as the stereo ones used. A very simple change to swap the speaker output to the centre pins on the socket. And I made a mistake here. d'oh!

So when a stereo cable is plugged in, signal is only output on one channel, not both as intended. It still works, only affects the 'phones output.

A fix is easy, if you wish to do it. It's not obligatory as the amplified 'phones output is designed for older style high-impedance phones or equipment needing higher input levels. I've attached a note to this post describing the issue and fix. If you're not using the 3.5mm jacks then this is academic anyway.

It doesn't affect the operation of the rest of Jasper - which still sounds great. I built a PCB just using the silkscreen values, not referring to the BOM at all and everything works fine.


Update 31 August 2016

Finally an updated build guide attached below covering the second version PCBs!

Update 14 July 2016
For the second PCB run, an updated BOM taking in account the differences between the second version and Jasper from the first run.

Update 5 April 2016
Finally completed an initial version of a construction guide, and a FAQ document. The construction guide is quite large, and illustrates the construction of the PCB and panel set. Or at least it shows how I make up the PCB....

Here are some audio samples

Update 21 March 2016
PCBs have started shipping!

This is the build thread for the Jasper, EDP Wasp clone PCBs.

The original thread is here: https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=151625

BOM, PCB and Panel measurements, Enhanced mode PCB construction guide are posted below.

Jasper Construction Guide, FAQs to follow.
dalhasumai
yay !
LED-man
how about a powersupply, any kind of 12V DC with 1000mA works ?
jasonl
LED-man wrote:
how about a powersupply, any kind of 12V DC with 1000mA works ?


Should do. Jasper uses less than 40mA using the line out, or less than 200mA if driving a speaker. Basically anything between 6V and 12V will do.

The MCP1702 I specify has a low dropout voltage of less than 650mA, but has a maximum input voltage of 13.2V. The 386 amplifier runs at the unregulated voltage - again a max voltage of about 12V is sensible.

I've tested using a 9V PP3 battery, linear bench power supply, small wall wart, large 3A 12V power brick....

Noisy (cheap?) switching supplies could affect the keyboard sensing circuit, but I've not had any problems with the supplies I've tried so far.
4floorsofwhores
I'm assuming negative leg of electrolytics is the yellow side. Can anyone clarify?
jasonl
4floorsofwhores wrote:
I'm assuming negative leg of electrolytics is the yellow side. Can anyone clarify?


Yep. Long positive leg goes through square pad.
4floorsofwhores
Thanks Jason. That was quick
duff
PR140 appears to be 50K in the BOM and 100K on the board. Is there a preferred value?
jasonl
duff wrote:
PR140 appears to be 50K in the BOM and 100K on the board. Is there a preferred value?


It should be 100K. I'll correct the BOM. Thanks for pointing that out.
In the original Wasp service manual R140 is a sort of 'select on test' resistor for the keyboard sensitivity.
duff
Ok my first one is up and running.

I had an initially comedy issue of no power - prodded and poked for a while before looking at the schematic and seeing that there should be a switch but couldn't remember installing one. Went over the board looking for where the switch went and couldn't find it. Eventually remembered the switched pots! Switched it on and had power. oops

I also initially wondered why I could see a trigger on the link header but my envelopes and VCA would not fire but I had missed LK1 out.

Now I just need to work out why I have permanent pitch modulation, but that can wait for tomorrow.

Edit: Oh and the pink stuff Tayda uses to pack ICs is the perfect height for lifting the alpha pots up to meet the panel.

jasonl
duff wrote:
Ok my first one is up and running.

I had an initially comedy issue of no power - prodded and poked for a while before looking at the schematic and seeing that there should be a switch but couldn't remember installing one. Went over the board looking for where the switch went and couldn't find it. Eventually remembered the switched pots! Switched it on and had power. oops

I also initially wondered why I could see a trigger on the link header but my envelopes and VCA would not fire but I had missed LK1 out.

Now I just need to work out why I have permanent pitch modulation, but that can wait for tomorrow.

Edit: Oh and the pink stuff Tayda uses to pack ICs is the perfect height for lifting the alpha pots up to meet the panel.



Wow, that was quick! applause SlayerBadger!

Excellent idea to use the foam as spacers for the pots. I'm just completing the build I'll use to illustrate the builders guide so might suggest that as an alternative to the way I've been doing it.

Re the pitch mod - check that R62 is 470ohms - this sets the minimum gain for the LFO/pitch voltage when VR4 is counter-clockwise.

Again, well done for getting Jasper built so quickly!
jasonl
biosynth wrote:
jasonl wrote:
duff wrote:
PR140 appears to be 50K in the BOM and 100K on the board. Is there a preferred value?


It should be 100K. I'll correct the BOM. Thanks for pointing that out.
In the original Wasp service manual R140 is a sort of 'select on test' resistor for the keyboard sensitivity.


I bought a 50k. Can I transform it into 100k? Thx


A 50K might work if you replace R140 with a larger value - try 68K to start with. PR140 is used to centre the point of the sensitivity pot at which the keyboard self-triggers.
duff
jasonl wrote:

Re the pitch mod - check that R62 is 470ohms - this sets the minimum gain for the LFO/pitch voltage when VR4 is counter-clockwise.

Again, well done for getting Jasper built so quickly!


Turns out my pitch mod issue was a stray component lead offcut, so that was easily solved.

Thanks for the great project it was a nice straight forward build - although soldering 626 IC pins in one go was a bit of a slog! To be fair, I am not quite finished; My hold switch is a jumper, I am short a 9mm A50K pot for Osc 2 level (currently also a jumper), and I need to replace the sensitivity and tune trimmers - I used pots with standard length shafts as I had some to hand, but they are way too short. I also need to decide if this one is getting a speaker and/or batteries....

But for now nanners
Paradigm X
Amazing work duff. applause and jason of course, looks like an easy and satisfying build. def in on round two!

hyper
SmartBits
I would like to order most components from Mouser (and TME.eu) in order to avoid nooby mistakes, but the
Hold switch (hold mod SPST) from the BOM has no stock at Mouser. What alternatives can I use from either Mouser or TME?
LED-man
SmartBits wrote:
I would like to order most components from Mouser (and TME.eu) in order to avoid nooby mistakes, but the
Hold switch (hold mod SPST) from the BOM has no stock at Mouser. What alternatives can I use from either Mouser or TME?


TME: 25346N
jasonl
LED-man wrote:
SmartBits wrote:
I would like to order most components from Mouser (and TME.eu) in order to avoid nooby mistakes, but the
Hold switch (hold mod SPST) from the BOM has no stock at Mouser. What alternatives can I use from either Mouser or TME?


TME: 25346N


That's for the power over Link switch (which could be left out if you're not using the 8pin link sockets, or replaced with 0.1" 3 pin jumper.

The hold switch is a sub-miniature toggle switch (either SPST or SPDT) - On-Off or On-On.

From TME, try: TSSM1022A1 or TSSM1022A2 - the latter may be better as it uses PCB pins that can be cropped closer to the switch. There's not a lot of room underneath the panel.

Guinness ftw!
jasonl
Double-post
SmartBits
Great, thanks!
SoundPool
nevermind. I apparently can't open a package correctly. Dead Banana
jasonl
SoundPool wrote:
got mine today- board and panel look great! While I can get most of my basics from Tayda and it looks like almost all the rest from Musikding anyone have any other sources for the switched pots from Farnell? Looks like international shipping might be a real pain for them. Preferably somewhere that offers fair international shipping (to Norway), or ships in Germany since I'll be there and can pick stuff up in a month.


You should have got a set of switched pots with your PCBs. hmmm..... PM sent.
Grumskiz
Just sent out an order for most components, but forgot to add the LM386 d'oh!
Is there a good substitution that I could already have in my part stash or does it have to be this part exactly?
4floorsofwhores
Noobie question again sorry. Can i leave out the link sockets? do i need to link anything? cheers
jasonl
Grumskiz wrote:
Just sent out an order for most components, but forgot to add the LM386 d'oh!
Is there a good substitution that I could already have in my part stash or does it have to be this part exactly?


Any Lm386 or NJM386 should work - I tested with various -1 -3 and -4 variants and they all seemed to work OK. It's an audio amplifier, not a conventional single opamp, so a 741 or TL071 won't work.

However, if you just use the line output jack, you don't need the LM386 at all. cool
jasonl
4floorsofwhores wrote:
Noobie question again sorry. Can i leave out the link sockets? do i need to link anything? cheers


They're not obligatory... But in my opinion Link is part of the fun things with Wasp/Jasper, as it lets you connect more than one together, or use a sequencer like the Spider, or an external Midi-Wasp adapter. Whether you want to use the on-pcb sockets is up to you, and depends a bit on how you wish to enclose the PCB.
LektroiD
On the enhanced PCBs, it calls for a carbon resistor, I only have metal film in stock (thousands of them), as I vowed never to use carbon resistors again... Is it possible to use 1x 4.7MΩ (R8) and 1x 3.9MΩ (R16), or maybe change C6 value slightly?
jasonl
LektroiD wrote:
On the enhanced PCBs, it calls for a carbon resistor, I only have metal film in stock (thousands of them), as I vowed never to use carbon resistors again... Is it possible to use 1x 4.7MΩ (R8) and 1x 3.9MΩ (R16), or maybe change C6 value slightly?


I suggest using a carbon resistor on the enhanced PCB - it's not obligatory. It's just that it might be desirable to add a little random difference between the two circuits. It'd be very subtle, just so the PWM frequencies will be slightly different when the two oscillators are tuned together.

By all means experiment with changing R8 and R16 or C6. You could also use two resistors in series on one of the boards, e.g. 4M7 and 220K (for a ~5% difference). This makes it easy as they're placed vertically on the PCB.
4floorsofwhores
jasonl wrote:
4floorsofwhores wrote:
Noobie question again sorry. Can i leave out the link sockets? do i need to link anything? cheers


They're not obligatory... But in my opinion Link is part of the fun things with Wasp/Jasper, as it lets you connect more than one together, or use a sequencer like the Spider, or an external Midi-Wasp adapter. Whether you want to use the on-pcb sockets is up to you, and depends a bit on how you wish to enclose the PCB.


Cool. Thanks. So does this mean you're cloning the Spider at some point? *hope hope*
masterofstuff124
so should i use carbon on the addon pcbs? and metal film for the rest of the board?
jasonl
masterofstuff124 wrote:
so should i use carbon on the addon pcbs? and metal film for the rest of the board?


Just use the same resistors as the rest of your build. As explained above I just suggest using carbon for the 4M7 LFO timing resistors on the enhanced mod board to add a subtle random variation on the speed of the PWM waveforms.... It's not critical.

4floorsofwhores wrote:
jasonl wrote:
4floorsofwhores wrote:
Noobie question again sorry. Can i leave out the link sockets? do i need to link anything? cheers


They're not obligatory... But in my opinion Link is part of the fun things with Wasp/Jasper, as it lets you connect more than one together, or use a sequencer like the Spider, or an external Midi-Wasp adapter. Whether you want to use the on-pcb sockets is up to you, and depends a bit on how you wish to enclose the PCB.


Cool. Thanks. So does this mean you're cloning the Spider at some point? *hope hope*


Not ruling it out... cool
sixty_n
Don't know if this is a well known technique but you can solder wires onto solder lug pots very easily and neatly if you put the wires through some stripboard and then into the back of the bent down pot lugs

LektroiD
sixty_n wrote:
Don't know if this is a well known technique but you can solder wires onto solder lug pots very easily and neatly if you put the wires through some stripboard and then into the back of the bent down pot lugs



That's what I did with all of mine.
LektroiD
I'm getting nothing out of either oscillator, and the filter sounds like it's not opening completely.

The noise generator works which is how I can hear the filter is not going to the top of the range.

The only things I have missed is the Glide pot (finding the dual 1M pot is proving to be more difficult than imagined). I also haven't installed the link ribbon cable, as I am not connecting it to any other unit, unless you need a single ribbon jumper cable to make the oscillators work?

I also have not installed the additional PWM modules. But I can't see that being a problem unless in extended waveform mode?
duff
You don't need the link cable or the the enhanced mode PCBs attached.

Glide I don't know as mine has always been connected, but it is wired as a variable resistor between pins on the pll which then drives the waveform generator. I think you may need to short across pins 1 & 2 if the pot is missing. I got my dual pot from das musikding
jasonl
LektroiD wrote:
I'm getting nothing out of either oscillator, and the filter sounds like it's not opening completely.

The noise generator works which is how I can hear the filter is not going to the top of the range.

The only things I have missed is the Glide pot (finding the dual 1M pot is proving to be more difficult than imagined). I also haven't installed the link ribbon cable, as I am not connecting it to any other unit, unless you need a single ribbon jumper cable to make the oscillators work?

I also have not installed the additional PWM modules. But I can't see that being a problem unless in extended waveform mode?


If testing without the audio mixer pots in place, then jumper the top two pads of the oscillator mix headers, so the oscillator waveforms can get to the filter. You will need the glide pot, or jumper pins 1&2 of each of the glide pot pads as duff suggests.

Smallbear are fine to deliver to the UK - I have had no problems there. ( [url=http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/alpha-dual-gang-16 mm-solder-terminals-linear-audio/ ]1M Pot in stock[/url]). Looks like Musikding are currently out of stock of the 1M dual.
sixty_n
For the dual 1M pot I got these off ebay. They seem ok but I've not finished the build yet
jhulk
hi jason managed to open the box today the pcbs look great
LektroiD
sixty_n wrote:
For the dual 1M pot I got these off ebay. They seem ok but I've not finished the build yet


That's the one, saved me ridiculous postage on a potentiometer. Thank you! smile
shiftr
Are the rotary switches supposed to be shorting or non-shorting? On the Bom it says both! seriously, i just don't get it
duff
shiftr wrote:
Are the rotary switches supposed to be shorting or non-shorting? On the Bom it says both! seriously, i just don't get it


I have the alpha MBB switches in mine and I've not noticed any glitching when switching. The Lorins linked in the BOM are also MBB so maybe the non shorting comment is a typo.
shiftr
thanks! So it's MBB then smile ... 2 of the links also point to non-shorting ones. Maybe it doesn't matter?
I wonder if somebody tried non shorting too because they are cheaper at musikding.
jhulk
it depends if its in audio path non shorting will click in audio path
kluberrrrr
So I built mine on Saturday! I spent the whole day but I wanted to take my time and avoid stupid mistakes! Not quite finished yet but it's alive! It's peanut butter jelly time!

I didn't order the glide pot (the stereo 1M log) and I've ordered 2 bad VRs (kbd sens and master tune) so I replaced them with some pots with different values.

First time I fired up the Jasper no sound came out. The noise section was working tho. I've just figured out that I had to bridge the missing glide pot for both tracks Vco 1 and Vco 2. It make sense when you look at the schematics.
Yeah! nanners nanners nanners the VCO 2 worked, the filter as well! But for the LFO only 1 waveform was working and the VCO 1 stayed mute.

Keep an eye on the MTA-100 connectors, those are quite capricious and bad connections happen. At the end, I just soldered them.

VCO 1 starts to sing! And the LFO,if you don't have all the waveforms then you need to turn the trimpot.

The only thing not working is the speaker. I guess it's because of the MTA-100 connectors again.

I'm waiting my second order to be shipped so I can mount the enhanced mod section.

Here two videos I've made really quickly to give you some motivation! hihi It's peanut butter jelly time!

[video]https://youtu.be/wrYmrcpUDhk[/video]

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SllZtq_LvtU[/video]

we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy JASON, thank you a lot for all the work you did and you are doing. As i was soldering the pcb, I realized even more all the work you did! Really A big thank to you! we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy
LektroiD
Is it possible to add a sync switch between the oscillators? If so, where would I tap into the circuit?
Sparky
@kluberrrrr thanks for posting the videos. I like the hand slap!

I'm part way through my build and had to leave on a work trip waah
SmartBits
Nice work kluberrrrr! I also like the knobs you used. Are those 20mm wide and about 15.5mm high? Like these:



My local shop has those so I was thinking of getting them.
LektroiD
I have a couple of problems with mine...

When it's been on for about an hour or more, it seems to randomly trigger notes, I have tried to find the sweet spot with keyboard sensitivity, but even when the keyboard won't respond to my finger taps, it triggers random notes.

Second problem is noise when the envelope is open. If I press a key with Osc 1, 2, Noise and Ext. turned down, I hear a lot of noise... seems to be post filter. I wonder if the noise issue is causing the random note triggers.

I'm running it on 9VDC as suggested.
kluberrrrr
SmartBits wrote:
Nice work kluberrrrr! I also like the knobs you used. Are those 20mm wide and about 15.5mm high? Like these:



My local shop has those so I was thinking of getting them.


I found them on musikding.de

I don't know if your local shop's got exactly the same model but lucky me the yellow is the same one used on the PCB.

@LektroiD I've got the same "problem" for the background noise when the osc 1 & 2 are turned down but I won't say a lot.Did you check the VCA trimpot?

About the random note triggering, everything works fine here but if I touch something metallic plugged (let's say the macbook or a lamp) it will trigger random notes. Something's wrong with my electricity ground. You might want to check if there is no cold solder around the sens. Kbd trimpot.

I'm not sure about the noise filter mod behavior as well. If selected it adds noise into the filter but it doesn't look like modulated.

Small tip: as I forgot to buy the Stereo 1M pot for the glide which gives the same amount of "glide" to both VCO I only wired one and bypassed the other= FUN! nanners
captnapalm
kluberrrrr wrote:

About the random note triggering, everything works fine here but if I touch something metallic plugged (let's say the macbook or a lamp) it will trigger random notes. Something's wrong with my electricity ground. You might want to check if there is no cold solder around the sens. Kbd trimpot.



This sounds similar to problems with BEMI 218 keyboards. Several people have found that dimmer switches anywhere in the same building can cause weird random events to be triggered. This assumes not using it on battery power of course...
LektroiD
kluberrrrr wrote:
@LektroiD I've got the same "problem" for the background noise when the osc 1 & 2 are turned down but I won't say a lot.Did you check the VCA trimpot?

Good call, I'll check that and report back

Quote:
About the random note triggering, everything works fine here but if I touch something metallic plugged (let's say the macbook or a lamp) it will trigger random notes. Something's wrong with my electricity ground. You might want to check if there is no cold solder around the sens. Kbd trimpot.

Yes, the same happens with mine, when I touch my macbook, take it out of sleep mode, etc. Strange though, as it should be well grounded with the synth being sat on the antistatic mat on my bench.

Maybe better if I can get some kind of base for it. I was thinking of buying a blank PCB panel the size of the main PCB and mounting it on standoffs, or maybe an aluminium panel would be better...

Quote:
Small tip: as I forgot to buy the Stereo 1M pot for the glide which gives the same amount of "glide" to both VCO I only wired one and bypassed the other= FUN! nanners


Not a bad idea, especially if we can find a way to tap in and activate oscillator sync! I think I'll look at the Fonik 4046 oscillators and compare notes, see where sync taps in to the circuit and if it's doable on here. It would work really nicely with your config.

*EDIT*
4046's appear to be used for the glide circuit on this, so no real correlation between these oscillators and the TH/Fonik 4046. Now to continue looking for a way to tap a sync into this baby...! Jason?
Macc29
Is there a way to shut the keyboard off? I am going to use it with Midi anyway. Of course I can set the keyboard trigger sensitivity to "very unsensitive" but does it eradicate random triggerings?
jasonl
Not received any update notifications to the thread - I'll read back more carefully and respond later.

Anyway, I finally completed an illustrated build guide - attached to the first post in this thread. This shows how I made up the PCB.
jasonl
Macc29 wrote:
Is there a way to shut the keyboard off? I am going to use it with Midi anyway. Of course I can set the keyboard trigger sensitivity to "very unsensitive" but does it eradicate random triggerings?


I've not done this, but from looking at the schematic, simply removing R137 and/or R138 should disable the keyboard completely.

I've not had any problems with random keyboard randomly triggering, and have had my prototypes running for hours.... thought the sensing circuit was fairly robust - as I've used several different power supplies, and plugged it into various bits of equipment.... Perhaps I'm just fortunate to be blessed with decent mains power...

I did alter the Jasper from the original for the new TI 4069 ICs used. Changed R137 from 33K to 22K, to increase the gain on the amplifier that follows it in order to get it to trigger using the modern TI chips. Might be worth experimenting with increasing this to 27K. If you're not using a TI CD4069 for IC35, then increase R137 to 33K, the Wasp's original value.

Another trick to prevent spurious triggering if you're using the keyboard is to use an anti-static wrist-strap to reference yourself to the circuit. The GND pads on the right hand side of the PCB near the keyboard are for a PCB mounted banana socket... The top-right panel screw/hex spacer is also connected to GND, so you could experiment by touching this while using the keyboard with your other hand...
jasonl
LektroiD wrote:

4046's appear to be used for the glide circuit on this, so no real correlation between these oscillators and the TH/Fonik 4046. Now to continue looking for a way to tap a sync into this baby...! Jason?


As I understand it the 4046 PLL ICs turn the narrow pulse of the generated by the oscillator divider (output of the 40103) into a useful square wave sent to the waveform shapers.... Haven't quite got my head around PLLs, and the glide circuit is only part of it....

As regards external syncing, I've prototyped a simple CV/Gate interface that can be used to trigger Jasper. Need to sort out the firmware, but the little PCB I made seems to work OK.

VCA noise - yep, there is a bit. I think it's a limitation of the circuit.

Certainly, try tuning the VCA trimmer. That adjusts the DC offset, so mainly deals with an audible click or thump when the VCA is opened.

I also think noise also comes from the filter - especially when resonance is turned up...
jasonl
kluberrrrr wrote:

I'm not sure about the noise filter mod behavior as well. If selected it adds noise into the filter but it doesn't look like modulated.

Small tip: as I forgot to buy the Stereo 1M pot for the glide which gives the same amount of "glide" to both VCO I only wired one and bypassed the other= FUN! nanners


Thanks Kluberrrr! Great videos - it's good to see and hear it's working!

I agree about the noise modulation in the filter being superfluous - it's as it was in the Wasp - it just sends noise into the filter CV, which bleeds though into the filter audio. I notice this option was removed from the Gnat.

When using the RND LFO waveform, there is some clicking as the random voltage changes. I'm thinking of seeing if it's feasible to put a capacitor somewhere to smooth the harsh transitions - but as it stands the RND LFO sounds pretty cool as it is.

Good idea about using one pot for the glide. I experimented using two separate pots - you can get some interesting results with those!
jasonl
biosynth wrote:
What is BEAD at the right of the pcb please?


A ferrite bead. It's aim is to help suppress noise on the power rail... If you don't have one, you can get away with just jumpering the pads, or use a 10ohm resistor.
kluberrrrr
LektroiD wrote:


Yes, the same happens with mine, when I touch my macbook, take it out of sleep mode, etc. Strange though, as it should be well grounded with the synth being sat on the antistatic mat on my bench.

Maybe better if I can get some kind of base for it. I was thinking of buying a blank PCB panel the size of the main PCB and mounting it on standoffs, or maybe an aluminium panel would be better...


I'm going to build my own case with some aluminium panel definitely!

LektroiD wrote:

Not a bad idea, especially if we can find a way to tap in and activate oscillator sync! I think I'll look at the Fonik 4046 oscillators and compare notes, see where sync taps in to the circuit and if it's doable on here. It would work really nicely with your config.

*EDIT*
4046's appear to be used for the glide circuit on this, so no real correlation between these oscillators and the TH/Fonik 4046. Now to continue looking for a way to tap a sync into this baby...! Jason?


My two cents really... I don't understand electronic. But look at the schematics here (Page 6), at some point there is a separation of the two oscs from the master osc. I guess if you "jump" over the pot called "pitch" of the osc2, both oscs should be "synchronized". You could mount a switch before the "pitch mod". One way would go through the pitch pot, the other way would be just like the osc1. Keep in mind R16 and R142 which have different values. Again I don't understand electronic. Maybe someone could check this first to confirm it.

LektroiD
jasonl wrote:
VCA noise - yep, there is a bit. I think it's a limitation of the circuit.

Certainly, try tuning the VCA trimmer. That adjusts the DC offset, so mainly deals with an audible click or thump when the VCA is opened.


Where's the best point to probe with a scope to balance the DC offset accurately?
kluberrrrr
jasonl wrote:


I agree about the noise modulation in the filter being superfluous - it's as it was in the Wasp - it just sends noise into the filter CV, which bleeds though into the filter audio. I notice this option was removed from the Gnat.

When using the RND LFO waveform, there is some clicking as the random voltage changes. I'm thinking of seeing if it's feasible to put a capacitor somewhere to smooth the harsh transitions - but as it stands the RND LFO sounds pretty cool as it is.

It really does and it is one of the options among others which make this synth special and experimental!

jasonl wrote:
Good idea about using one pot for the glide. I experimented using two separate pots - you can get some interesting results with those!


Yeah 2 different gildes would be awesome and a lot of fun!

The enhanced mod is great as well kind of discreet tho. I wonder if there is a way to add a pot to change the modulation speed for one of the osc. My guess would be R8 since you advised to put a carbon resistor here.

Also I REALLY like the repeat mod of the filter ENV. It's too bad is not synchronized. I would love suc a feature like that. Any idea in mind? Like bypassing the "mini LFO" and add a trig input to sync it with a drum machine or something? As I'm writing I'm thinking about something even simpler. What about an input to trig the enveloppe i would do the same result.

EDIT= [i]I sort of found it! I connected the hot tip of gate wire coming from the beat step pro to the pin 8 or 12 of IC35 and you play along on the keyboard to change the pitch. I works but with an offset...
LektroiD
On the Thomas Henry 555 VCO, the sync circuit goes into pin 4 (reset) of the 555...
So maybe if I lift pin 4 of one of the the 555's and tap in using a SPDT to switch between sync'd and non sync'd... May need to change the value of the pull up resistor for use with 9V

jasonl
LektroiD wrote:
jasonl wrote:
VCA noise - yep, there is a bit. I think it's a limitation of the circuit.

Certainly, try tuning the VCA trimmer. That adjusts the DC offset, so mainly deals with an audible click or thump when the VCA is opened.


Where's the best point to probe with a scope to balance the DC offset accurately?


I'm not sure about scoping it - PR2 feeds into the network before pins 13 & 14 of IC6... I only ever set PR2 by ear listening for clicks when operating the keyboard with oscillators off.

From the Wasp` service manual - this assumes Attack and Decay are both set fully anti-clockwise:
Step 72: Turn both oscillators off. Set SUSLEV to "repeat" mode and turn the volume on full. Press any key. The residual buzz that can be heard is due to an offset in IC6. Adjust the VCA BAL control (PR2) for minimum buzz.
jasonl
kluberrrrr wrote:

The enhanced mod is great as well kind of discreet tho. I wonder if there is a way to add a pot to change the modulation speed for one of the osc. My guess would be R8 since you advised to put a carbon resistor here.

I wanted to keep it simple. hihi It's a really simple LFO, you could put a 1M pot in series with R8 to make it variable. R8 and C3 determine the oscillation speed. Maybe increase C3 to 1uF or 2uF with a smaller R8 to get a more useful range from a 1M pot.

kluberrrrr wrote:

Also I REALLY like the repeat mod of the filter ENV. It's too bad is not synchronized. I would love suc a feature like that. Any idea in mind? Like bypassing the "mini LFO" and add a trig input to sync it with a drum machine or something? As I'm writing I'm thinking about something even simpler. What about an input to trig the enveloppe i would do the same result.


I think it is synchronised to the VCA EG - Pin13 of IC20 triggers the attack of the VCA EG, and the VCF EG at pin 3..... a logical pulse there should trigger the VCF EG - but you'd probably need a diode to stop it affecting the VCA EG...
kluberrrrr
jasonl wrote:
kluberrrrr wrote:

The enhanced mod is great as well kind of discreet tho. I wonder if there is a way to add a pot to change the modulation speed for one of the osc. My guess would be R8 since you advised to put a carbon resistor here.

I wanted to keep it simple. hihi It's a really simple LFO, you could put a 1M pot in series with R8 to make it variable. R8 and C3 determine the oscillation speed. Maybe increase C3 to 1uF or 2uF with a smaller R8 to get a more useful range from a 1M pot.


Oh great! Thanks a lot! I'm definitely gonna try this! thumbs up

jasonl wrote:
kluberrrrr wrote:

Also I REALLY like the repeat mod of the filter ENV. It's too bad is not synchronized. I would love suc a feature like that. Any idea in mind? Like bypassing the "mini LFO" and add a trig input to sync it with a drum machine or something? As I'm writing I'm thinking about something even simpler. What about an input to trig the enveloppe i would do the same result.


I think it is synchronised to the VCA EG - Pin13 of IC20 triggers the attack of the VCA EG, and the VCF EG at pin 3..... a logical pulse there should trigger the VCF EG - but you'd probably need a diode to stop it affecting the VCA EG...


See my previous post I edited it.

@LektroiD About the random notes triggering, do you have by any chance the speaker connected? Because I just disconnected it and now it looks like it's gone.
Arnoid
kluberrrrr wrote:


[video]https://youtu.be/wrYmrcpUDhk[/video]

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SllZtq_LvtU[/video]


Wow sounds great the first video espacially very liquid smile
BugBrand
1M+100K gives 90.9090909etc k.

Haven't seen where that actual resistor is though!
masterofstuff124
when he batted the hand away in the video i rofled. sounds amazing.
jasonl
biosynth wrote:
BugBrand wrote:
1M+100K gives 90.9090909etc k.

Haven't seen where that actual resistor is though!

we're not worthy
with 1% tolerance that's ok wink


Congrats on your build! thumbs up

The resistor in the Enhanced mode PCB circuit.

You can just use a 100K resistor. When tested, 91K (a standard E24 series resistor) gets a slightly wider modulation of the pulse width without pushing the pulse 'off the end'...

If you separate them, the enhanced PCBs will just about fit under the panel, stuck with adhesive foam pads or velcro - along the top edge, near the left hand stand-off. Be careful not to short any of the components on the main PCB below.

Otherwise, when you make a case/enclosure, make some space behind the main PCB for mounting the enhanced PCBs. If you're planning on putting in a MIDI board or internal speaker, then you'd need to do this anyway.
jasonl
biosynth wrote:
where do you put 'enhanced pcbs' please? There are m3 holes... hmmm.....


The M3 holes are for fixing in the case, when you make it. cool

Or as I said previously, just use sticky-fix foam pads to affix to the panel.

Piccie:
AonFLuX
Amazing work with the build instructions as-well, Jason!
No the loooong wait for the possible second run smile
kluberrrrr
Talking about led. I would love to add led for the LFO and the repeat options!
Could be great! w00t
LektroiD
biosynth wrote:
where to put enhanced pcbs?


I used 22mm heat shrink to prevent shorting, and just placed them inside the synth upside down. There's plenty of space.

mangros
Lektroid: Are those rotaries the break-before-make rotaries from Tayda? And if so do they create clicks when switching?

I've got six of those ready to solder but I'm a bit dubious about installing them as everyone else seems to be getting the MBB type.
jasonl
biosynth wrote:
is there a way to slow down the LFO ?


Increase C36 - you can get film 1.5uf or 2uf caps, or use an electrolytic. You will shift the range downwards, losing the higher speed.

Don't forget, you can use the Control Envelope on repeat as a nice slow LFO.
kluberrrrr
what about enlarging the whole range? Or even 2 different speed ranges Slow and Fast
jhulk
if its in audio path they need to be shorting

if they are not then none shorting will do as they are cheaper but if you have shorting use them

as it says either
jasonl
kluberrrrr wrote:
what about enlarging the whole range? Or even 2 different speed ranges Slow and Fast


If you can find a 2M2 Reverse Log pot, you can also use that to give a slower LFO speed. Tubeampdoctor are the only supplier I found.
A switchable range is also possible with two capacitors wired up to a SPDT On-On switch.

The LFO speed range is determined by C36, R105 and VR3.
PWM
You can find 2.2M pots (and even 5M) on eBay.

@Jason: I think that if you use a (stable) 10uF instead of a 4.7uF you'll get half the speed (frequency) of the 1uF. Or did I mis something?
kluberrrrr
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5ljUST5LNY

A really quick and dumb video to show a potential external trigger mod and LFO mod found by Jason of course!

Still working on it. Rockin' Banana!
kluberrrrr
jasonl wrote:
kluberrrrr wrote:
what about enlarging the whole range? Or even 2 different speed ranges Slow and Fast


If you can find a 2M2 Reverse Log pot, you can also use that to give a slower LFO speed. Tubeampdoctor are the only supplier I found.
A switchable range is also possible with two capacitors wired up to a SPDT On-On switch.

The LFO speed range is determined by C36, R105 and VR3.



Thanks! thumbs up
jasonl
PWM wrote:
You can find 2.2M pots (and even 5M) on eBay.

@Jason: I think that if you use a (stable) 10uF instead of a 4.7uF you'll get half the speed (frequency) of the 1uF. Or did I mis something?


I can't remember, but possibly. When planning Jasper I breadboarded the circuit and just tried a bunch of different caps/resistor combinations until I got results I was happy with. I recall the 1uF/4.7uF being a good combination if you were switching them, giving a fairly good choice of ranges. But hey, use what you want if you're hanging the caps off a switch! hyper

The values in the BOM result in a range that extends very slightly on the LFO range of the Wasp - but yes, it is limited. But then the LFO is basically made from a single 4069 IC...
jasonl
kluberrrrr wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5ljUST5LNY

A really quick and dumb video to show a potential external trigger mod and LFO mod found by Jason of course!

Still working on it. Rockin' Banana!


thumbs up
LektroiD
I noticed the headphone output only comes out of one side of the headphones. The main output jack works properly with stereo headphones.

Anyone else tried using stereo headphones?
duff
LektroiD wrote:
I noticed the headphone output only comes out of one side of the headphones. The main output jack works properly with stereo headphones.

Anyone else tried using stereo headphones?


If you haven't got a speaker connected you need a 47ohm resistor across the speaker pads.
delayed
Has anyone posted a Mouser BOM? I know there are some links on the official BOM, but I am looking to see if anyone has shared a known working full Mouser cart?

Thanks,
dalhasumai
Is it ok if I use BC547/557 instead of BC547B/557B ?
dalhasumai
I just bought a sh*tload of BC547/557, hope i didn't make a mistake...
jasonl
dalhasumai wrote:
I just bought a sh*tload of BC547/557, hope i didn't make a mistake...


I'm pretty sure you'll be OK - lower Hfe values are better in the envelope repeat circuits. 547C/557C not so good.
jasonl
duff wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
I noticed the headphone output only comes out of one side of the headphones. The main output jack works properly with stereo headphones.

Anyone else tried using stereo headphones?


If you haven't got a speaker connected you need a 47ohm resistor across the speaker pads.


Yes - if you look at the schematic, you'll see that one channel is routed through the 8ohm speaker. This is also why plugging phones in means you will still get some noise coming out of the speaker, if you're using one. I remember some discussions/reviews of the Wasp comment on this.

The 'phones socket I think only really has use as an amplified output, which might be useful when connecting Jasper to a modular perhaps, if you don't mind the LM386 colouring the sound a bit.
kluberrrrr
jasonl wrote:
duff wrote:
LektroiD wrote:
I noticed the headphone output only comes out of one side of the headphones. The main output jack works properly with stereo headphones.

Anyone else tried using stereo headphones?


If you haven't got a speaker connected you need a 47ohm resistor across the speaker pads.


Yes - if you look at the schematic, you'll see that one channel is routed through the 8ohm speaker. This is also why plugging phones in means you will still get some noise coming out of the speaker, if you're using one. I remember some discussions/reviews of the Wasp comment on this.

The 'phones socket I think only really has use as an amplified output, which might be useful when connecting Jasper to a modular perhaps, if you don't mind the LM386 colouring the sound a bit.

Speaking of the phones out. I've tried to hook it up into the audio in hoping to make some feedbacks loop like on a Roland SH09 but didn't work and I don't know why (Anyone wants to try it and give some feedbacks? Mr. Green ) but it could be a really great feature!
dalhasumai
For the first time in my DIY life, I've had problems with the customs ordering some parts from Tayda.
I made a 130€ order at tayda, so i choose a DHL delivery cause it wasn't much of a price rise.
But my order got opened at the customs and I had to pay 40€ fees...
Is it happening more often when delivering with DHL ?
kluberrrrr
seriously, i just don't get it You should call DHL first and see if it's normal.
jasonl
With Tayda I found, their normal postage option gets through without being caught by customs - but there's always a risk it being picked up for import tax and duty.

Using a tracked service like DHL, they handle it automatically, as it's a legal requirement for them when importing into the EU - and are more efficient at doing it than the normal postal service. seriously, i just don't get it
ejr27233
How do they get it to €40? VAT is 20%. Handling charges?
jasonl
biosynth wrote:
biosynth wrote:
kluberrrrr wrote:

Speaking of the phones out. I've tried to hook it up into the audio in hoping to make some feedbacks loop like on a Roland SH09 but didn't work and I don't know why (Anyone wants to try it and give some feedbacks? Mr. Green ) but it could be a really great feature!


could be a phase opposition


hey I understand, phones output doesn't work when there is a jack in the line out plug.

Phones output is very noisy, i try my phones in line output and it's perfect. So this phones output doesn't seem to be essential.
Jason will probably have a comment about it.


Back in 1978 most headphones will have pretty high impedance - so the LM386 is used to boost the line level - for the internal speaker and headphones output... The line output is probably best for low impedance headphones. As the output level is higher from the phones output, this might be good for sending into a modular, perhaps.
kluberrrrr
Hey Biosynth! Nice! applause

Could you please post a demo of the Slow mod (video or audio)?
Macc29
Can I use NE555P instead of LM555? I guess it is not CMOS confused No CMOS-555 on Tayda or TME at least
SmartBits
Macc29 wrote:
No CMOS-555 on Tayda or TME at least

TME has the same one as the BOM suggests from Mouser:
http://www.tme.eu/nl/details/tlc555cp/watchdog-en-reset-circuits/texas -instruments/
kluberrrrr
biosynth wrote:
[s]https://soundcloud.com/biosynth/jasper-lfo-mod[/s]

1. original 1uF LFO speed
2. slow 11uF LFO speed
3. slow LFO in situation


Merci Biosynth! thumbs up

Sounds pretty good!
jasonl
Macc29 wrote:
Can I use NE555P instead of LM555? I guess it is not CMOS confused No CMOS-555 on Tayda or TME at least


No problem with NE555. A non-CMOS 555 that was used in the original Wasp will use a little more power but any through hole 8pin 555 IC should be fine.
SoundPool
looking forward to starting my build once I have all my parts. thanks to everyone else for sharing build tips and mods so quickly.

Jason- any update on the laser cutting files for the case? I know as soon as I get this thing built and tested I'm gonna want to start taking it out of the studio w00t
jasonl
SoundPool wrote:
looking forward to starting my build once I have all my parts. thanks to everyone else for sharing build tips and mods so quickly.

Jason- any update on the laser cutting files for the case? I know as soon as I get this thing built and tested I'm gonna want to start taking it out of the studio w00t


No updated files yet - let's just say soon. Just getting back into things as I've been away a week....

Cheers Guinness ftw!
RadekTymecki
shit. i need to have it eek!
Isaiah
A word of warning:

If you were planning on using Piher 15mm trim pots for the Master Tune and Keyboard Sense controls, the Mouser codes in the BOM are incorrect. Dead Banana
The footprint is visible here on p.53 item VD(15):
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/325/14-PT15v03-7050.pdf
If you trust the photograph that Rapid has on its site, this appears to be correct.

Jason, you've done an excellent job with this project.
Thank you! thumbs up
mangros
Just got mine working - sounds bloody mint. I strayed slightly from the recommended parts - I used 18mm spacers because I had some spare, and this meant that I could use normal 16mm Alpha pots for the osc/ext level pots. It did mean that the vertical Alpha legs weren't poking right through the board, but I used loads of solder to give them a solid joint.

Still got 16mm Alphas hanging from the underside while I wait for Thonk to get the tall trimmers in stock, I have a real mess of knobs while I wait for Rapid to get the Cliff knobs and caps back in stock, but it's alive and amazing!

I made a little expansion - a 4070 XOR on some veroboard, taking the square waves and outputting to a spare pin on Osc 2's waveform rotary. It doesn't seem to have had any adverse effect on the square waves in normal use.
Well worth it if you want some clangorous Sea Devils action!

Quadram
i can't tune to A-440, i have the 440 on the upper C only.
An idea ?
Thanks
duff
Has anyone tried the link functionality yet?

I have managed to tear myself away from my first Jasper long enough to build the second but when linking them I get some odd behaviour. They power each other ok and the note triggering appears to be good, but I have what sounds like a lot of noise in the note or octave pins making the output sound like the oscillators are being fm'd in low audio range (possibly the trigger frequency?) This is the same regardless of which Jasper is played, which link ports are used and which one has power.

I've not had an opportunity to look closely at the problem yet, but I just wondered if there is something obvious I might be doing wrong.
duff
duff wrote:
Has anyone tried the link functionality yet?

I have managed to tear myself away from my first Jasper long enough to build the second but when linking them I get some odd behaviour. They power each other ok and the note triggering appears to be good, but I have what sounds like a lot of noise in the note or octave pins making the output sound like the oscillators are being fm'd in low audio range (possibly the trigger frequency?) This is the same regardless of which Jasper is played, which link ports are used and which one has power.

I've not had an opportunity to look closely at the problem yet, but I just wondered if there is something obvious I might be doing wrong.


It would appear the cable I have is not wired pin to pin but 1-2, 3-5, 4-4, 5-3 6-8, 7-7, 8-6. However I definitely get 12V on pin 8. I checked this pin before plugging in and confirmed it again just now, but also confirmed the 6-8 connectivity. Hence it powers up ok, so I am a bit confused.
Quadram
Quadram wrote:
i can't tune to A-440, i have the 440 on the upper C only.

I just realized that this is the entire keyboard is shifted one tone and 1/2 d'oh!
someone has an idea of the problem ?
Thanks
Quadram
For Osc 1 i have 375 hz when i press A key with the tune pot at maximum clockwise.
And i can only tune to 440 Hz on the upper C key.

I am trying to check the components, I certainly made a mistake somewhere ... but where seriously, i just don't get it
Apart this problem everything works correctly, also with the midi-wasp
jasonl
Quadram wrote:
Quadram wrote:
i can't tune to A-440, i have the 440 on the upper C only.

I just realized that this is the entire keyboard is shifted one tone and 1/2 d'oh!
someone has an idea of the problem ?
Thanks


Tuning - first thing to do is to check the components and soldering around IC2 - which provides the master frequency for Oscillator 1 (forget osc 2 for the moment.).

An oscilloscope or frequency counter is useful to see if this bit of the circuit is working correctly. cool

When testing, set Bend (VR1) to centre; Master tune (PR3) to centre; VCO separation (PR1) to centre and Pitch Mod(VR4) fully anti-clockwise.

You should get a pulse of about 250kHz at pin 3 of IC2. This is divided by 2 and 4 in IC24 to get the octaves. Adjusting PR3 (Master Tune) gives me a range of 207kHz to 281kHz.

Here's the relevant bit of the circuit:

It's important that C6 is pretty close to 330pF, and the resistors around it are correct. I've had an issue when I built one of mine that I got the wrong value capacitor in there throwing the tuning way off (I got some 470pF mixed into the 330pF bag... d'oh! )

And this is the signal I see on pin 3 of IC2 - a downward going pulse about 1uS at 249kHz:


If that checks out OK, further investigation is needed, but I suppose there could be an issue with the logic note division - check the soldering on your IC sockets. cool

Hope this helps.
jasonl
duff wrote:
duff wrote:
Has anyone tried the link functionality yet?

I have managed to tear myself away from my first Jasper long enough to build the second but when linking them I get some odd behaviour. They power each other ok and the note triggering appears to be good, but I have what sounds like a lot of noise in the note or octave pins making the output sound like the oscillators are being fm'd in low audio range (possibly the trigger frequency?) This is the same regardless of which Jasper is played, which link ports are used and which one has power.

I've not had an opportunity to look closely at the problem yet, but I just wondered if there is something obvious I might be doing wrong.


It would appear the cable I have is not wired pin to pin but 1-2, 3-5, 4-4, 5-3 6-8, 7-7, 8-6. However I definitely get 12V on pin 8. I checked this pin before plugging in and confirmed it again just now, but also confirmed the 6-8 connectivity. Hence it powers up ok, so I am a bit confused.


Hmm. Is the shield of the cable connected at both ends? That's needed for grounding. Also both Jaspers have to be switched on, otherwise weird things happen and the whole setup doesn't work properly.

I've used link without problems - using these mini-din cables from CPC:
1.5m
http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/fc-06-1-5m/8-pin-mini-din-pl-to-pl-le ad-1/dp/AV08541
3m
http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/fc-06-3m/8-pin-mini-din-pl-to-pl-lead -3m/dp/AV08542

Datasheet is here, and confirms they're wired straight through:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1812985.pdf

They're pretty flexible, seem quite strong and have a ferrite on the cable, and not too expensive.
duff
jasonl wrote:
Hmm. Is the shield of the cable connected at both ends? That's needed for grounding. Also both Jaspers have to be switched on, otherwise weird things happen and the whole setup doesn't work properly.

I've used link without problems - using these mini-din cables from CPC:
1.5m
http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/fc-06-1-5m/8-pin-mini-din-pl-to-pl-le ad-1/dp/AV08541
3m
http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/fc-06-3m/8-pin-mini-din-pl-to-pl-lead -3m/dp/AV08542

Datasheet is here, and confirms they're wired straight through:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1812985.pdf

They're pretty flexible, seem quite strong and have a ferrite on the cable, and not too expensive.


Thanks. I'll start by grabbing a new lead.
Reality Checkpoint
I now have pretty much all the BOM required, just waiting on deliveries from Mouser and Farnell, but I forgot to order a suitable power supply. d'oh!

Please could someone provide me with a link to a quality one, preferably in the UK.

Cheers! Guinness ftw!
duff
I'm running mine from a 12V DC adapter that came with a long since abandoned net gear router at the moment. Bitsbox will sell you something similar - 12V 500mA centre +ve
Reality Checkpoint
duff wrote:
I'm running mine from a 12V DC adapter that came with a long since abandoned net gear router at the moment. Bitsbox will sell you something similar - 12V 500mA centre +ve


Thank you! w00t
Quadram
I checked pin3 IC2 / pin3 IC24 and i have 196hz with PR3 to centre.
i have 166hz(mini) to 220hz (max) when i turn the master tune.

All the component around IC2 are within the tolerances.
334pf for C6



seriously, i just don't get it
jasonl
Quadram wrote:
I checked pin3 IC2 / pin3 IC24 and i have 196hz with PR3 to centre.
i have 166hz(mini) to 220hz (max) when i turn the master tune.

All the component around IC2 are within the tolerances.
334pf for C6



seriously, i just don't get it


That waveform looks a bit ragged compared with what I see: sharp transition on the rising edge, with the top of the wave at 5V. Yours seems to be stopping just above 4V...
Are R12 and R13 10ohms? It might be worth checking the supply voltage on pin 8 of IC2...

It's pretty much a textbook 555 oscillator circuit, the only difference being a control voltage from the pitch mod/tune/bend controls going through R14. It's possible that the problem could be in that network.

If you lift one leg of R14, IC2 should start oscillating at around 480kHz. (According to the maths). If it doesn't, then your problem's with the 555 circuit, if it does, then we need to trace back...
Quadram
I checked again and i found that R13/R12 are out tolerance 9,7r instead 9,9r max
so i control :
between pin 1 and 8 of IC2 i have 4,88v
same control for IC1 i have 4,92v

the problem can it come from here : R13/R12 ?

in case ... I checked pin3 of IC1/IC37, i have 125hz !
jasonl
Quadram wrote:
I checked again and i found that R13/R12 are out tolerance 9,7r instead 9,9r max
so i control :
between pin 1 and 8 of IC2 i have 4,88v
same control for IC1 i have 4,92v

the problem can it come from here : R13/R12 ?

in case ... I checked pin3 of IC1/IC37, i have 125hz !


I wouldn't have thought a 0.3r difference for R12 and R13 would affect it much. They're there to help decouple the 555 from the power rails.

IC1 pin 3 - that's not right! It should be pretty close to IC1. Are R8 and R14 10k and PR1 1k?
Quadram
i have left one leg of R14 and i have now 250hz on pin3 IC1

R8 and R14 are 10k and PR1 1k trimmer ref 102.
jasonl
Quadram wrote:
i have left one leg of R14 and i have now 250hz on pin3 IC1

R8 and R14 are 10k and PR1 1k trimmer ref 102.


Are you using an NE555N?

Had a go at trying some measurements and on a whim swapped the CMOS TLC555CP that I used in my builds with an NE555 and got this:



Looks like what you are seeing. A rather messy waveform at 200kHz.

Swap back the TLC555CP without changing anything else:



250kHz. hmmm.....

Maybe this is the root of the tuning problems. Different 555s behave quite differently.

Maybe it's possible to compensate for the frequency drop of the NE555 by reducing R15 for osc 1 and R9 for osc 2? But I think the cleaner signal and lower power requirements of the CMOS 555 will be better.

Just tried a ST TS555CN and get 278kHz with the same settings as above. But at least you can use the master tuning pot to adjust it to 250kHz.
Quadram
jasonl wrote:
Are you using an NE555N?

eek! d'oh! confused ... Yes confused

i just tried a 3ko for R15 and the frequency is better, I can now adjust the tune for A-440



But going to order good IC's (TLC555CP)

Thanks very much jasonl for your help thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up
And for creating this clone ... thanks again ...
jasonl
Quadram wrote:
jasonl wrote:
Are you using an NE555N?

eek! d'oh! confused ... Yes confused

i just tried a 3ko for R15 and the frequency is better, I can now adjust the tune for A-440

But going to order good IC's (TLC555CP)

Thanks very much jasonl for your help thumbs up thumbs up thumbs up
And for creating this clone ... thanks again ...


Fantastic! hyper It's good to be able to replicate the issue!
Reading around, it looks like 250kHz is quite a high frequency for the bipolar NE555,but CMOS 555s are easily capable of much higher frequencies. But I thought the Wasp used NE555s? hmmm..... So why the 50kHz difference using the same RC values?
Oh well, I'll just specify TLC555CP for Jasper. cool
Reality Checkpoint
d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh!

Has any kind soul got 2 of these 50k Song Huei pots available to trade or for me to buy? Thonk is out of stock and I can't find an alternative supplier. They are the missing link for me to complete the build. help

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/ttpots/
Reality Checkpoint
Reality Checkpoint wrote:
d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh! d'oh!

Has any kind soul got 2 of these 50k Song Huei pots available to trade or for me to buy? Thonk is out of stock and I can't find an alternative supplier. They are the missing link for me to complete the build. help

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/ttpots/


This has been sorted!

Thank you!!!!
dalhasumai
Finished mine ! dat sound.... https://soundcloud.com/dalhasumai/jasper-sound/s-UDM6Z
Macc29
I am building the Elby design Midi kit. No build docs were included(!), and I cant figure out which way to connect the seven wires...which is which? Can somebody help?
duff
Macc29 wrote:
I am building the Elby design Midi kit. No build docs were included(!), and I cant figure out which way to connect the seven wires...which is which? Can somebody help?


mini midi wasp docs
Macc29
thanks! Found it!
delayed
Does anyone have Mouser part numbers for the correct
Piher 15mm trim pots for the Master Tune and Keyboard Sense controls

and the

MTA100 2way 2 SP1, S8 Speaker and hold switch header
MTA100 3way 3 VR19, VR20, VR21 Oscillator volume and input gain – off PCB
MTA100 4way 2 P20, P21 Optional for enhanced wave PCBs

1 x 9way 2.54mm header 1 P5
17mm hex spacers 6
Fixing screws for hex spacers 6 M3 whatever matches the spacers. 10mm

4way MTA-100 plug 2 P1, P2 plug to match header on Jasper or just solder wires directly

I hardly ever use MTA connections and want to make sure I get the correct parts
Kipling
delayed wrote:
Does anyone have Mouser part numbers for the correct
Piher 15mm trim pots for the Master Tune and Keyboard Sense controls

and the

MTA100 2way 2 SP1, S8 Speaker and hold switch header
MTA100 3way 3 VR19, VR20, VR21 Oscillator volume and input gain – off PCB
MTA100 4way 2 P20, P21 Optional for enhanced wave PCBs

1 x 9way 2.54mm header 1 P5
17mm hex spacers 6
Fixing screws for hex spacers 6 M3 whatever matches the spacers. 10mm

4way MTA-100 plug 2 P1, P2 plug to match header on Jasper or just solder wires directly

I hardly ever use MTA connections and want to make sure I get the correct parts


There are links in the BOM for most parts so the Piher pots will be 531-PT15NV-50K plus shafts 531-5214CR.

M3 Hex spacers (female/female) 855-R30-1011702 (currently on back-order) or male/female (needs M3 nut one end) 855-R30-3001702 (in stock). Amazon (UK at least) usually has loads and cheap too. eBay of course.

Get your MTA header/housing/terminal kits from anywhere; Amazon/eBay local electronics shop etc. There are loads on Mouser but it's a real pain trying to get the header and wire housing in matching make/style/colour. Pretty much any make of either will fit each other but make sure you use keyed ones to avoid insertion the wrong way round. You can buy kits of header + housing + terminals from some places to make it easy.

Hope that helps.
delayed
Thanks for the reply. I person in another thread the tall trim part number might be wrong so I was just checking. I took a chance and order some random MTA connectors. We will see what comes in Monday.
Kipling
delayed wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I person in another thread the tall trim part number might be wrong so I was just checking. I took a chance and order some random MTA connectors. We will see what comes in Monday.


Hope they're right - I haven't bought any as I didn't get on the first round, so here's hoping for the round 2.

I have to say that the lead footprint of the Mouser Piher part (three pins in triangular orientation) does look different to the image on the Thonk link (three in a row), so if you have a close-up photo of the PCB pads that should help. Perhaps it has wiper pads for both styles?

[/img]
duff
It has pads for both

Kipling
duff wrote:
It has pads for both


Looks like the Song Huei or equivalent is the more sturdy and overall better looking part
delayed
I in the US so getting one part overseas is a bit much. I have not found that trimmer in the US. Anyone know of an US source? Thanks for the info.

PTV09A-4030U-A503 30mm 40 teeth shaft
or
PTV09A-4225F-A503 25mm flat d shaft
Isaiah
Kipling
I ordered Song Heui trim pots from Thonk.
Normally I can't stand plastic shaft pots, but these actually don't feel unpleasant to turn and have no noticeable lateral wobble.
mangros
Kipling wrote:
duff wrote:
It has pads for both


Looks like the Song Huei or equivalent is the more sturdy and overall better looking part


The Song Huei pots came back in stock at Thonk about four seconds after I ordered the Piher trimmers from Rapid (min order was 5 as well), so I was a bit annoyed for not waiting a bit longer.
However they're much more sturdy than I thought, and I'm going to stick with them. The base is wide, and the plastic shaft clips in pretty tightly and doesn't wobble much.
The only downside is the lack of pointer on the top.
duff
I initially used some 9mm plastic shaft alphas as I had some in my component stash. They just poked through the panel and I could turn them by putting my finger on the top and twisting. They were too short to be very useable in the long term, but if you have some they would work as a stop gap.
crustibooga
Finally finished building Jasper! However have a couple of faults very frustrating First up - keyboard tracking is somewhat random, and secondly the LFO waveforms aren't all working very frustrating Needed to swap out a dodgy keyboard sensitivity pot, that's ok now. Onwards and upwards! eek!
Macc29
Does the internal loudspeaker really have to be 8 ohms? I have a good one but it measured 4.5 ohms...
Kipling
Macc29 wrote:
Does the internal loudspeaker really have to be 8 ohms? I have a good one but it measured 4.5 ohms...


A speaker is quoted as 8 ohms impedance (not resistance), i.e fed with an AC signal (the frequency of which I cannot recall) and the DC resistance will be lower than the actual impedance. I'll dig out an 8ohm speaker if I can find one and measure its DC resistance.

Liken it to a mains transformer - the secondary DC resistance may be 1 ohm or so but with a 12V AC output it's not going to pull 12A with no load. AC works in mysterious ways.........
Macc29
Ah yes, that's how it is. It still begs for an answer: can the ampllifier in Wasp take a four ohms loudspeaker? That is what I got now.
SmartBits
My supplier forgot to send a few of the IC's I need, so I have to wait a while for those to arrive... angry

In the meantime I measured the voltage and I'm not sure how to interpret this: I got 5V everywhere except for 3 IC sockets. The two LM13700's (IC3 and IC6) and the LM386 (IC23). Is that correct?
crustibooga
Thought I'd have a play with the Jasper this weekend. All drum sounds from Jasper. Bass FC sysX VCO, VCF & VCA on my modular other weirder background noises same as bass but going through MI Warps and some modulated MN Erbe Verb. Pad sound at the end Roland System 1.
Jasper drum sounds sampled from random noodlings into Logic Pro X Ultradrum.

[s]https://soundcloud.com/crustibooga/wasp-in-the-playground[/s]
crustibooga
SmartBits wrote:
In the meantime I measured the voltage and I'm not sure how to interpret this: I got 5V everywhere except for 3 IC sockets. The two LM13700's (IC3 and IC6) and the LM386 (IC23). Is that correct?


I think it's ok, I had the same. My Jasper is up and running albeit with a keyboard tracking problem.
SmartBits
crustibooga wrote:
I think it's ok, I had the same. My Jasper is up and running albeit with a keyboard tracking problem.

Great, thanks! Hope to have mine up and running by the end of the week... This is fun!
STOJ

I used pots for tune and keyboard sens. from TME.
SmartBits
crustibooga wrote:
I think it's ok, I had the same. My Jasper is up and running albeit with a keyboard tracking problem.

It was indeed no problem, because my Jasper has come to life! SlayerBadger!
I took me a while due to my own stupidity (ordering errors), but once I got all the parts together everything worked from the first power-up. A few tweaks as described in the (excellent) build doc, but no trouble with tracking or keyboard sensitivity. I only need to check the hold switch, that doesn't seem to do much, maybe something wrong with the wiring.
I was glad to see that I made an ordering mistake before I powered the unit up for the first time. I ordered an 560R resistor instead of the 560K. But I desoldered it and measured it and it was also a 560K, I'm still not sure what happened there...

I order most of the parts from Mouser, but almost all the IC's (and Cliff jacks and battery holders) from TME as they were (mostly) a fair bit cheaper (though with a higher minimum order quantity). Pots from MusikDing, Thonk (the 2 trimmers) and Newtone, hope to receive my knobs from Newtone tomorrow as well.
Now on to build the expander boards and the enclosure! nanners
Macc29
And here is mine.
nologin
Hi, my Jasper works well, thank you to Jason fantastic synthesizer.
By cons i do not really understand the calibration procedure of trimmer LFO. If i put it at its lowest, the LFO does not work on all forms, only with saw, noise and RND. If i turn the trimmer, i have all the time even with a slight modulation, with LFO freq and LFO control to 0.
Can anyone explain this a little better the calibration procedure for trimmer LFO with an oscilloscope? I have a digital scope.
Starspawn
Remember the LFO and Envelope amount potentiometers are attenuverters so the middle position is no modulation or zero.
SmartBits
Macc29 wrote:
And here is mine.

Nice work Macc29, looks great!

Small testdrive of my Jasper:

nologin
Starspawn wrote:
Remember the LFO and Envelope amount potentiometers are attenuverters so the middle position is no modulation or zero.

Ok thanks.
SmartBits
Tried a few different knobs, went for these:



I got them here: http://www.newtone-online.nl/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30&product s_id=1538

Also tried the enhanced mode boards yesterday but could not get them to work. No sound, exactly like when the VCO waveform is switched to the off position. The voltage at the CD4069UBE measures 5V at pin 14, GND is also ok. I double (and triple) checked the MTA connectors, wiring seems to be ok as well.
I'll check with a scope if I can see anything happening there, but maybe someone has a pointer on what the cause might be?
Macc29
Weird problem, might intrest others. I use Elby Designs Midi-Wasp-adapter. It works great on a cheap midikeyboard, which sends note on/off and midi note number, and nothing else, no velocity etc. But when I connect my Jasper to a Roland JV-80, JD-800 or Prophet-08, all I get is ONE note, then it goes silent. I tried to remove everything from Midi signal, but no help!

What on earth is this? It hampers my Jasper unusable in a Midi studio :(
jasonl
Macc29 wrote:
Weird problem, might intrest others. I use Elby Designs Midi-Wasp-adapter. It works great on a cheap midikeyboard, which sends note on/off and midi note number, and nothing else, no velocity etc. But when I connect my Jasper to a Roland JV-80, JD-800 or Prophet-08, all I get is ONE note, then it goes silent. I tried to remove everything from Midi signal, but no help!

What on earth is this? It hampers my Jasper unusable in a Midi studio :(


I think Elby might be able to answer as I don't have much experience of MIDI. Maybe a bug in the firmware?

It seems to work OK with my Axiom 25 keyboard which sends notes and velocity. You do need to make sure the octaves are in the correct range, and the Minimidi and other device are on the same MIDI channel.

I had my Jasper recently connected to the MIDI output of a friend's Boss DR-5 drum machine, and that seemed to work fine, too.
jasonl
It's been a while, but just a heads up that the second PCB run is ready to go. hyper Details in this post:

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2285619#2285619

Anyway, I'll add the revised BOM to the first post of this build thread, and a slightly updated build guide will follow in the next few days.

The BOM has changed to reflect that the enhanced waveform mod is now incorporated onto the PCB, and there's a couple of other minor changes.

It's great to see that they're getting built, (and working mostly!)

I've been away from synth stuff for a few weeks, so will go over the posts I've missed in the Jasper threads.

Here's my test build of the round 2 PCBs, built into an experimental case made with 3D printed side panels and standoffs with lasercut acrylic base , top and back.

The speaker is a Visaton SC4.7ND - it's loud and noisy. nanners There'll be a yellow speaker grille for it soon. cool
jasonl
nologin wrote:
Hi, my Jasper works well, thank you to Jason fantastic synthesizer.
By cons i do not really understand the calibration procedure of trimmer LFO. If i put it at its lowest, the LFO does not work on all forms, only with saw, noise and RND. If i turn the trimmer, i have all the time even with a slight modulation, with LFO freq and LFO control to 0.
Can anyone explain this a little better the calibration procedure for trimmer LFO with an oscilloscope? I have a digital scope.


Thanks!

LFO trimmer adjusts the shape of the triangle and mark/space pulse waves of the LFO - it's best set somewhere in the middle.

You shouldn't be getting any pitch modulation with Pitch Mod turned to 0; and as said before, the VCF controls should be set centrally if you don't want the VCF modulated.
NS4W
Is there a complete mouser bom floating around?
Altitude909
So is there a workable solution for CV/Gate?
jensu
Altitude909 wrote:
So is there a workable solution for CV/Gate?


I'm wondering the same thing. As far as i can read, there is a working gate in now, but no CV.
Isaiah
The EDP Link protocol could be used to generate CV/Gate outputs using a DAC of some sort.
I believe there are 4 bits to determine Note, another 2 bits to determine the Octave, and finally the "Gate" is a ~50Hz pulse for the duration of a note.

I have a few ideas on how to generate CV/Gate outputs using CMOS and op-amps (CV/Gate inputs would probably require a PIC or Arduino):
Feed the ~50Hz pulse into a slew with a forward-biased diode across the resistor, followed by a comparator to generate the Gate output.
Use CMOS buffers to feed the Note and Octave signals each into their own R/2R ladder DACs. But these then need to be summed and I don't think that would work well on a single-ended PSU.
Perhaps some kind of binary adder could be used, or maybe the Note and Octave outputs could all be fed into the ladder with different weighting.
My memory, and possibly understanding, is a little fuzzy on this!

Disclaimer: I used my own terminology above (Note, Octave). EDP might have called it something else (MSB, LSB etc), but I don't have the information to hand.
jasonl
Isaiah wrote:
The EDP Link protocol could be used to generate CV/Gate outputs using a DAC of some sort.
I believe there are 4 bits to determine Note, another 2 bits to determine the Octave, and finally the "Gate" is a ~50Hz pulse for the duration of a note.

I have a few ideas on how to generate CV/Gate outputs using CMOS and op-amps (CV/Gate inputs would probably require a PIC or Arduino):
Feed the ~50Hz pulse into a slew with a forward-biased diode across the resistor, followed by a comparator to generate the Gate output.
Use CMOS buffers to feed the Note and Octave signals each into their own R/2R ladder DACs. But these then need to be summed and I don't think that would work well on a single-ended PSU.
Perhaps some kind of binary adder could be used, or maybe the Note and Octave outputs could all be fed into the ladder with different weighting.
My memory, and possibly understanding, is a little fuzzy on this!

Disclaimer: I used my own terminology above (Note, Octave). EDP might have called it something else (MSB, LSB etc), but I don't have the information to hand.


I need to make some time to work on the CV/Gate input. :-)

It should be possible to create a quick and dirty CV out from an Arduino/Atmega's analogue output pin, or use a separate DAC chip for more precision, though that's probably not needed.

The Spider implemented the CV out using a parallel ZN426 8bit DAC and LM324 for adjusting the range of the output. Details and schematic on Tim Stinchecombe's Gnat page. Don't think it does anything with the gap in numbers between the octaves, so not terribly precise perhaps.

A simple microcontroller-less CV out might be quite an interesting thing to have, and in a way in keeping with the rest of the Wasp/Jasper circuitry. Is there a functional equivalent to the ZN426 that could be used?
Isaiah
jasonl
Thanks for the pointer to the Spider schematic.
Could you not just use some flip-flops, buffer the outputs (CMOS or maybe transistor) and use 0.1% resistors to make the R/2R ladder?

Am I right in thinking that 4 bits are used to determine the note and 2 are used to determine the octave?
Is there a diagram anywhere that shows which outputs are active for any given note, or how the outputs count as the keyboard is played chromatically up or down?
EDIT - The last page of the Gnat schematic on Tim's site is exactly what I was after.
Macc29
Hopefully this CV/gate can be implemented to first run models, too.
jasonl
Macc29 wrote:
Hopefully this CV/gate can be implemented to first run models, too.


Yes - the it's connected in parallel on the Link bus, using the internal connector.
magman
Does anyone possibly have any info on the EDP Caterpillar controller, ideally a circuit diagram, as I plan to build 4 Jaspers in total and would like a matching controller.

At least 2 of my new Jaspers will be rack mounted, I'm just about to buy a 3U case for the first one. I will post some photo's when I've made some progress.

Regards

Magman
mbroers
I'm wondering about the link port cable step of the build and the link ports in general...

Is the 7 way wire link port cable step required for basic external control functionality like having a kenton pro 2000 kadi port control the jasper through link port 1?

Ive soldered the two ports but not the hookup wire, and I was hoping it wasnt required for just controlling the jasper externally from port 1, and only needed if I was hooking up more jaspers in sequence from port 2 or the internal connectors.
magman
mbroers wrote:
I'm wondering about the link port cable step of the build and the link ports in general...

Is the 7 way wire link port cable step required for basic external control functionality like having a kenton pro 2000 kadi port control the jasper through link port 1?

Ive soldered the two ports but not the hookup wire, and I was hoping it wasnt required for just controlling the jasper externally from port 1, and only needed if I was hooking up more jaspers in sequence from port 2 or the internal connectors.

I was only looking at these connections on the circuit diagram last night, so here goes with a quick summary.

Option 1 If you just want to connect to the link port exactly like an original Wasp, then use the P3 connection (Link 1) in the middle of the board. There is the no need to install the Ribbon link to P5 (Link 2), or install P2, P4 or S7. In this case, I would suggest using a Molex connector linked to a 7 pin DIN connector. There is a pin diagram on page 38 of the construction guide for the connector.

Option 2 if you are looking to use a micro to control your Jasper, or want to link 2 Jaspers with a ribbon cable you use Link 2. This does then need the ribbon cable connection from Link 1 to Link 2, but again you don't need to install P2, P4 or S7. This option also provides a 5V supply that can power the micro or the 2nd Jasper if needed.

Option 3 This option makes use of the 8 pin mini DIN connectors, P2 and P4, for external connections. The will also need the ribbon link from Link 1 to Link 2 and the optional installation of S7. You actually only need one of these connectors (P2 or P4) to connect to an external device or another Jasper, but two are provided so you can daisy chain multiple devices if you wish. In this option, S7 actually switches the 5V power on the mini DIN's, so again you can power a 2nd Jasper and actually control it's power with S7.

It has been noted that you have to check any 8 pin mini DIN cables to make sure they actually connect all 8 pins and the screen (which is used for the GND connection), as some cables swap over connections. Get a straight through cable.

I hope that helps make things a bit clearer.

Regards

Magman
jasonl
Thanks Magman for the description. thumbs up

Just to reiterate, if you want to use the Link ports/Mini DIN sockets on the RH side of the board, you need to connect up the ribbon cable as per the build guide.

On Jasper, I wanted PCB mounted Link connectors - hence the ribbon cable to route the Link bus to the edge of the PCB. There's an extra row of pads for an internal Link device (or even 7pin full size DIN), with 5V and GND pads for convenience.
mbroers
thanks that clears it up!
LektroiD
Don't forget your ultra fine sharpies...
PWM
SamuelMourad wrote:
It's a little difficult for me to understand


Understand what precisely?
magman
I have a suspicion this may be spam, I'll let a mod know to keep an eye on this user.
DMM
Hi Jasonl, do you have a full kit left?
LektroiD
magman wrote:
It has been noted that you have to check any 8 pin mini DIN cables to make sure they actually connect all 8 pins and the screen (which is used for the GND connection), as some cables swap over connections. Get a straight through cable.


So it needs to be 8-core shielded cable? I bought straight 8-core... very frustrating

So when I finally get the right cable and wire these connectors, it's a straight sequence, like this:

1-1
2-2
3-3
4-4
5-5
6-6
7-7
8-8
Screen-Screen

...or is one of the other pins also ground (omitting the need for shielded cable)?
jasonl
LektroiD wrote:
magman wrote:
It has been noted that you have to check any 8 pin mini DIN cables to make sure they actually connect all 8 pins and the screen (which is used for the GND connection), as some cables swap over connections. Get a straight through cable.


So it needs to be 8-core shielded cable? I bought straight 8-core... very frustrating

So when I finally get the right cable and wire these connectors, it's a straight sequence, like this:

1-1
2-2
3-3
4-4
5-5
6-6
7-7
8-8
Screen-Screen

...or is one of the other pins also ground (omitting the need for shielded cable)?


7 wires are for the Link Data.
Shield is GND - so needs to be connected. This is the same as the original DIN confuration in the Wasp.

I used the free 8th wire for 9V/12V power so you can power more than one Jasper using the Link cable. By default this isn't connected (I suggest using a switch or jumper).

These are the cables I used - they're the first I came across, so assumed that 8way mini DIN cables were all much the same:

http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/fc-06-1-5m/8-pin-mini-din-pl-to-pl-le ad-1/dp/AV08541
http://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/fc-06-3m/8-pin-mini-din-pl-to-pl-lead -3m/dp/AV08542

In 1.5m and 3m lengths. They're available from other sellers - Google for DAP FC06



In theory you could solder a wire between pad of the switch closest to the mini-DIN socket to the shield of the DIN socket. Leave out the jumper/switch. As long as you don't connect them to anyone else's Jasper (with 9V on that wire) you should be OK. You'd need to do this on both machines, of course.

dalhasumai
I'm trying to code a midi-to-link for arduino inspired by Jasonl's cv-to-link.
I'm still missing a few components so i can't try it but can anyone check for obvious mistakes ?

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z_JtRdMtlRxEifYeCFgwje_PuUPZdE9ry5 5rmsERa1E/edit?usp=sharing
jasonl
I've yet to update the build guide - I'll aim to get it done Friday - but I've just made a note about the Ext trigger mod. I've attached a PDF with photos.

For the trigger mod, you need to solder D9 to the innermost pad, above the "trig mod" label. If you want to test without a jack socket, jumper the T and S pins on the Ext Trig Mod header.

If you don't want the trigger mod at all, use the outer square pad next to the 'D9' label. You can leave out R172 and the header.
AonFLuX
Took a while for me to get started on the build of this v2 board - I have been hypnotized by the beautiful board and panel. Great work Jason!

I manage to salvage some new-old carbon film resistors that got cleared out at work some time ago. So No I'm slowly scraping of some oxide on the resistor legs and measure the value before populating the board. The result will be a nice colourful pallette of old and new resistors smile
But it will def not be the quickest build in history cool
nologin
Oxidation of components can lead to failure. Scrape oxidation with a flat screwdriver. I have a friend who had a failures on introspectiv 9090, caused by oxidation NOS transistors on the legs ... A long debugging because of it ...
AonFLuX
nologin wrote:
Oxidation of components can lead to failure. Scrape oxidation with a flat screwdriver. I have a friend who had a failures on introspectiv 9090, caused by oxidation NOS transistors on the legs ... A long debugging because of it ...


Yes, and thanks for the heads up - I make sure to really scrape the legs of th old resistors that I'm planning to use, and make them nice and shiney again. Before measuring them again and flux+solder.
I also have alot of new carbon-film resistors that I bought for another build, but they are all very well within tolerance. Maximum 1-2% off.
And I dont know if I should be glad or sad about this wink
jaapl
Hi,

I just finished building my 2nd run Jasper. It sounds fantastic! Deep and dirty ..

Everything seems to be working as it should ... apart from one thing: the envelope generators are always on "repeat". Switching the Sustain pot to "sustain" doesn't help. Changing the settings of "attack" and "decay" does not influence the repeat timing, it re-triggers at about 4 Hz.

When I close S8, switching the Sustain pot between "repeat" and "sustain" does make the envelope generators repeat / sets the sustain level but then pressing "keys" on the keyboard doesn't trigger the envelope generators.

I guess I'm missing something obvious here ...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
ulrich.audio
this is so cruel!!
everything went super smooth with the build so far
and when i started to insert the ICs
i see this..

duff
jaapl wrote:
Hi,

I just finished building my 2nd run Jasper. It sounds fantastic! Deep and dirty ..

Everything seems to be working as it should ... apart from one thing: the envelope generators are always on "repeat". Switching the Sustain pot to "sustain" doesn't help. Changing the settings of "attack" and "decay" does not influence the repeat timing, it re-triggers at about 4 Hz.

When I close S8, switching the Sustain pot between "repeat" and "sustain" does make the envelope generators repeat / sets the sustain level but then pressing "keys" on the keyboard doesn't trigger the envelope generators.

I guess I'm missing something obvious here ...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Is this affecting both the VCA and VCF envelopes?

You describe only 2 states for S8 whereas the V2 PCB offers 3. Are you using a DPDT on/off/on?
jaapl
duff wrote:
jaapl wrote:
Hi,

I just finished building my 2nd run Jasper. It sounds fantastic! Deep and dirty ..

Everything seems to be working as it should ... apart from one thing: the envelope generators are always on "repeat". Switching the Sustain pot to "sustain" doesn't help. Changing the settings of "attack" and "decay" does not influence the repeat timing, it re-triggers at about 4 Hz.

When I close S8, switching the Sustain pot between "repeat" and "sustain" does make the envelope generators repeat / sets the sustain level but then pressing "keys" on the keyboard doesn't trigger the envelope generators.

I guess I'm missing something obvious here ...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Is this affecting both the VCA and VCF envelopes?

You describe only 2 states for S8 whereas the V2 PCB offers 3. Are you using a DPDT on/off/on?


This is affecting the VCA envelope.

On the V2 PCB there are two "HOLD" switches, S8 and S9, both two pins. I tried all combinations of on/off (4 in total). Only closing S8 causes the Sustain pot to behave normally (but then the keyboard doesn't trigger the envelopes).
GryphonP3
ulrich.audio wrote:
this is so cruel!!
everything went super smooth with the build so far
and when i started to insert the ICs
i see this..

at least you caught itbefore powering the whole thing on and troubleshooting 5000 other problems before realizing it!
Altitude909
isnt CD4025BE a TI part number? Strange to see a Harris part like that. Where did those come from?
ikkini
Have I made a mistake or do I need 39 0,1 uF capacitors instead of 38 as mentionned on the BOM ?
jaapl
ikkini wrote:
Have I made a mistake or do I need 39 0,1 uF capacitors instead of 38 as mentionned on the BOM ?


I needed 39. Luckily I order 50 ...
ikkini
Thanks ! Now I know I didn't make a mistake ! thumbs up
jaapl
duff wrote:
jaapl wrote:
Hi,

I just finished building my 2nd run Jasper. It sounds fantastic! Deep and dirty ..

Everything seems to be working as it should ... apart from one thing: the envelope generators are always on "repeat". Switching the Sustain pot to "sustain" doesn't help. Changing the settings of "attack" and "decay" does not influence the repeat timing, it re-triggers at about 4 Hz.

When I close S8, switching the Sustain pot between "repeat" and "sustain" does make the envelope generators repeat / sets the sustain level but then pressing "keys" on the keyboard doesn't trigger the envelope generators.

I guess I'm missing something obvious here ...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Is this affecting both the VCA and VCF envelopes?

You describe only 2 states for S8 whereas the V2 PCB offers 3. Are you using a DPDT on/off/on?


Contrary to what I posted before, it is actually affecting both the VCA and VCF envelopes.

Has anyone got an idea how to wire the S8 and S9 switches?
ikkini
I don't know if it needs a separate topic, but I'm looking for inspiration for the case.

Would those who have built one share pictures and thoughts ?
ulrich.audio
Altitude909 wrote:
isnt CD4025BE a TI part number? Strange to see a Harris part like that. Where did those come from?


came from reichelt elektronik in germany
they just put the wrong ic in my package which took me untill today to finish the build..

now the right chips arrived (and they send me another 4pcs of that 4025 for whatever reason) hmmm.....

just powered it up - sounds rad!!
RadekTymecki
ikkini wrote:
Have I made a mistake or do I need 39 0,1 uF capacitors instead of 38 as mentionned on the BOM ?


same here. 39
jaapl
When press and hold a key, Jasper keeps triggering. It appears I get 4 trigger pulses for every scan reset pulse.

This is not supposed to happen right?
crustibooga
First render of my Jasper case. A few bits still to work out, but should have it made next month.


marto
crustibooga wrote:
First render of my Jasper case. A few bits still to work out, but should have it made next month.



Very nice looking case/housing.
ikkini
Very nice case !
How do you fix the metal part between the keyboard and the panel ?
crustibooga
@ikkini This is how the top panel is attached. Parts will be held & glued with mortice joints. PCB and panel should drop in with extra hex spacers at the bottom. Hopefully I'll have a working version by the end of next month. If it works out and if it's not too expensive I hope to do a run of kits.



muncky
That's a lovely case - would be very interested in a kit...!
ikkini
Very nice ! Let me know if there are kits, I could be interested
Reality Checkpoint
Quality case design @crustibooga!

Definitely interested in a kit.
NS4W
I recieved my kit, but the silk screen is more golden brownish than yellow, is this correct? cry
stringsthings
Also interested in a possible case kit. Looks very, very nice!
RadekTymecki
if there'll be a wooden kit i'll take 2
r0main
Hello,

as per the BOM v2 I ordered 38x 0.1uF capacitors, filled all the unmarked capacitor symbols close to IC sockets, +c92 & c41 (labeled), and am missing one for C50. Anyone found the same? I have the all 38 caps on the board... seriously, i just don't get it
W
I imagine C50 is more important, which of the other 0.1uF would you recommend I replace by a simple jumper? Thanks
jensu
r0main wrote:
Hello,

as per the BOM v2 I ordered 38x 0.1uF capacitors, filled all the unmarked capacitor symbols close to IC sockets, +c92 & c41 (labeled), and am missing one for C50. Anyone found the same? I have the all 38 caps on the board... seriously, i just don't get it
W
I imagine C50 is more important, which of the other 0.1uF would you recommend I replace by a simple jumper? Thanks


Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but they are all bypass capacitors. They are there to keep HF noise going into the ics. If you have a cap with a value close to 0.1 uF it's better to use that, then a jumper.

/Jens
Kipling
Do not replace any cap with a jumper as you risk short-circuiting the power rails. Leaving any of the unlabelled ones out isn't going to hurt anything and I believe they were not in the original design and Jason added them for good measure.
r0main
Ok thank you for your answers, so putting nothing is better than a putting a wire/jumper, but ideally another non-polarized cap around the same value.

Question remains: how many 0.1uF caps did you put in your Jasper? I'd gess 39 of those, then.
Kipling
r0main wrote:
Ok thank you for your answers, so putting nothing is better than a putting a wire/jumper, but ideally another non-polarized cap around the same value.

Question remains: how many 0.1uF caps did you put in your Jasper? I'd gess 39 of those, then.

Correct. I haven't quite got that far with my build so I guess I'm going to be one short in my Mouser order (38 instead of 39) as others have found, but I have a load of ceramic caps I bought from Tayda as part of my total build orders, so I'll be using one of those.
jonny_w
EDIT: answered earlier in thread d'oh!
r0main
Hello, the selectors I have, Alpha as per the BOM v2, can be put in two opposite orientations, does it make a difference?
If so, should they be put like a clock (12 on top, then 1, 2, 3... Rotating clockwise) or 12 at the bottom?
LED-man
Depends on the shaft type for the knob wink
r0main
LED-man wrote:
Depends on the shaft type for the knob wink


Round shafts, Alpha selectors. I have oriented them as in most photos, will see...
efexor
Nice case.
If you plan on selling them, i'll take 3.
Altitude909
So which resistors need to be 1%? The bom has everything listed as 1% metal film but I would prefer to use carbon which are generally 5% but I expect some tuning related parts would be better served with 1% film resistors
redragebrian
I'd take a case too. Looks great.
pulsesynthesizers
Hi JasonL

Great work, looks and sounds fantastic.

Would like to register for a full set of PCB, panel and parts.

Cheers
John
AonFLuX
Altitude909 wrote:
So which resistors need to be 1%? The bom has everything listed as 1% metal film but I would prefer to use carbon which are generally 5% but I expect some tuning related parts would be better served with 1% film resistors


I bought alot of carbon-films for my Syncussion build. And every resistor that I checked the value of, has been maximum 1.5-2% off. Maybe the newer carbon-films are "too" good smile

So, I have used carbon, aswell as some metal-films in my Jasper build, withouth a thought of where I use which. But Im not done with my build yet, so time will tell if this was a good approach or not.
reggiechacha
I've completed my build. The keyboard is not triggering the synth at all.
I've been able to test the synth functions by placing a jumper on the hold connector, and using the sustain repeat the synth is triggered. All synthesis functions work perfectly.
I've had a look at the service manual notes and schematic on the synth DIY site to see how I can trouble shoot the keyboard functionality. And I have carried out a few tests. IC39,43, and 47 seem to be ok showing a pulse on the correct pins, except for pins 11, 12, 14 and 15 on IC 43.
I also tested IC 5 and can't see evidence of a scanning clock on pin 8 as per the service manual. Also there is no trigger signal on pad T on the link connector.
If anyone can point me the best place to do more testing and give me any pointers I'd be very grateful.
ikkini
How did you connect the External Trig Mod ?
synthetek
How do the Enhanced mode PCBs connect to the main board? The Enhanced mode PCBs are marked VGIO but the main board is not? And the panel mounted pots which way do they connect to the PCB?
Altitude909
Not sure if you're in the run 1 or 2 camp but:

* The enhanced oscillator waveform mods are now on the PCB – so no trying to find space for the daughter-boards. The middle of the PCB is more cramped to make space, but the result is worth it.
synthetek
Mine is from the first run, it has the enhanced mode pcbs.
sixty_n
@synthetek I can't remember which way round they go but VGIO is voltage, ground, input and output for the enhanced boards. If you power on the jasper you can use a multimeter to check which of the end pins has a voltage, that is the V end
synthetek
sixty_n wrote:
@synthetek I can't remember which way round they go but VGIO is voltage, ground, input and output for the enhanced boards. If you power on the jasper you can use a multimeter to check which of the end pins has a voltage, that is the V end


I am not ready to power it up yet but your suggestion helped. I used the V and G on the Link 2 header as a reference and was able to find V and G on the Enhanced connectors with a multimeter.








sixty_n
That is right because I remember them sticking out that way now I see the picture. Make sure your wires are long enough to get to where you are going to stash them when the panel is on. There isn't much room in there. I put them both on the top edge where the 555s are attached to the underside of the panel
synthetek
Got the the enhanced mode pcbs figured out now just need to hook up the panel mounted pots. Which way do they go?

stringsthings
For the panel mounted pots, the pins on the keyboard side of the PCB are connected to ground. You can verify this with a multimeter.
ikkini
What should be the polarity of the power supply ? center positive ?

Edit. Sorry, I looked at the PCB and yes, center positive. d'oh!
Kipling
ikkini wrote:
What should be the polarity of the power supply ? center positive ?

Correct. Negative sleeve, positive centre. Pretty much universal these days.
synthetek
stringsthings wrote:
For the panel mounted pots, the pins on the keyboard side of the PCB are connected to ground. You can verify this with a multimeter.


So if They are wired like in the construction guide the black wire goes towards the keyboard side of the PCB?



Kipling
synthetek wrote:
So if They are wired like in the construction guide the black wire goes towards the keyboard side of the PCB?


That's the way I've done mine. Just about to install the ICs then go for power up later tonight or tomorrow so should confirm it.
AonFLuX
* R9 and R15 may need changing to adjust master oscillator tuning (4K7 on silkscreen)

..may need seems a little vague. Is it ok with the mentioned 3k9 value? Or should I use some sort of socket and try out a proper value?
Altitude909
ikkini wrote:
How did you connect the External Trig Mod ?


U need a switched jack, T goes to Tip, S to switch, G to ground. If not using a jack, jumper T and S (didnt see this in the build doc, needs to be added since it had me pulling out my hair for a minute)

Unrelated:

The BOM PDF has the wrong SPST switch linked at mouser, it is a ON-None-ON type with a 10-48mm thread (which is almost too small for the hole). It should probably be 108-0041-EVX. I could not find one in the sub mini size with the M6 thread, you could use MS-101343 which is the next size up but you need to trim the legs to prevent it from hitting the transistors directly below
synthetek
So I finished putting it all together and it seems to be working correctly except for 2 issues. The headphone socket is very noisy there is a lot of static noise even with volume down and no keys pressed but it sounds good through the line out , the 2nd problem is that the keyboard works and all the keys trigger but like every 2 keys are the same note? any ideas?
Thanks
stringsthings
synthetek wrote:
So I finished putting it all together and it seems to be working correctly except for 2 issues. The headphone socket is very noisy there is a lot of static noise even with volume down and no keys pressed but it sounds good through the line out , the 2nd problem is that the keyboard works and all the keys trigger but like every 2 keys are the same note? any ideas?
Thanks


For the noisy headphone output, make sure you have a speaker connected or a 47R resistor across the speaker header pads. ( see page 32 of the construction guide )

For the keyboard problem, I had a similar problem and it turned out that I had not inserted IC40 ( CD4081) correctly into the socket. So I would check around the Note Decoder area. ( page 7 of the schematic ) There are other IC's in there which could give problems with bad notes. I'm glancing at the schematic now and I see IC29 ( CD4071 ), IC41 ( CD4069 ), IC28 ( CD4071 ), and IC27 ( CD4019 ). So I would check for proper power voltages and ground on those IC's and check for connections between the pins as listed on the schematic.

If all the notes are triggering and some are just the wrong note, I'm very confident that the problem lies in this area.

To prevent weird noises and false triggering, ground yourself with a wrist strap or by touching a ground point when playing notes.
synthetek
Think I found the problem , at IC27 CD4019BE I have a CD40192BE seriously, i just don't get it
I am going to have to order a CD4019BE and go from there. d'oh!
Kipling
Altitude909 wrote:
The BOM PDF has the wrong SPST switch linked at mouser, it is a ON-None-ON type with a 10-48mm thread (which is almost too small for the hole). It should probably be 108-0041-EVX. I could not find one in the sub mini size with the M6 thread, you could use MS-101343 which is the next size up but you need to trim the legs to prevent it from hitting the transistors directly below


If you want both Hold functions (for Rev 2 PCBs only) try 108-0046-EVX which is a DPDT centre-off. Still has the tiny 10-48 mounting thread so careful positioning is required. Again beware of the transistors below; I bent mine over to give extra clearance.
ikkini
Tested and calibrated ! Works perfectly, thanks ! SlayerBadger!
narapo
interrested in a wooden case also
Altitude909
Kipling wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
The BOM PDF has the wrong SPST switch linked at mouser, it is a ON-None-ON type with a 10-48mm thread (which is almost too small for the hole). It should probably be 108-0041-EVX. I could not find one in the sub mini size with the M6 thread, you could use MS-101343 which is the next size up but you need to trim the legs to prevent it from hitting the transistors directly below


If you want both Hold functions (for Rev 2 PCBs only) try 108-0046-EVX which is a DPDT centre-off. Still has the tiny 10-48 mounting thread so careful positioning is required. Again beware of the transistors below; I bent mine over to give extra clearance.


That brings up a good point: What is the second hold for? I assumed it was just an aux for a foot switch but something tells me that its not..
Kipling
Kipling wrote:

If you want both Hold functions (for Rev 2 PCBs only) try 108-0046-EVX which is a DPDT centre-off. Still has the tiny 10-48 mounting thread so careful positioning is required. Again beware of the transistors below; I bent mine over to give extra clearance.


Altitude909 wrote:
That brings up a good point: What is the second hold for? I assumed it was just an aux for a foot switch but something tells me that its not..


From the Main Thread, page 26:

A better hold switch option – one that simulates holding down a key, allowing the repeat function of the VCA envelope to work. The one on the original run suppressed the decay cycle, preventing the repeat. The original hold is still available, allowing use of a miniature DPDT on-off-on switch for both behaviours.
stringsthings
synthetek wrote:
Think I found the problem , at IC27 CD4019BE I have a CD40192BE


Glad you found the problem. That would definitely confuse the note decoding.
Johnson
With the Enhanced Waveform Mod, does that remove the ability for a sawtooth wave entirely or adds a square wave to be selected?
duff
Johnson wrote:
With the Enhanced Waveform Mod, does that remove the ability for a sawtooth wave entirely or adds a square wave to be selected?


It adds, so you have the pwm'd square in addition to the saw and fixed width square of the original.
reggiechacha
reggiechacha wrote:
I've completed my build. The keyboard is not triggering the synth at all.
I've been able to test the synth functions by placing a jumper on the hold connector, and using the sustain repeat the synth is triggered. All synthesis functions work perfectly.
I've had a look at the service manual notes and schematic on the synth DIY site to see how I can trouble shoot the keyboard functionality. And I have carried out a few tests. IC39,43, and 47 seem to be ok showing a pulse on the correct pins, except for pins 11, 12, 14 and 15 on IC 43.
I also tested IC 5 and can't see evidence of a scanning clock on pin 8 as per the service manual. Also there is no trigger signal on pad T on the link connector.
If anyone can point me the best place to do more testing and give me any pointers I'd be very grateful.


Resolved this. Replaced a bad ic48 AND... I didn't realise the 2 different solder points for d9 aren't connected. Doh! No wonder the keyboard didn't trigger the vca.
Kipling
Completed my Rev 2 build successfully. Sounds amazing just with a loose 3" speaker.

Just needs some sort of case or at least a bottom baffle board for the speaker.

What a brilliant bit of kit it is and a very big thanks to Jason for bringing it to us.

chelikan
Hi guys, what value did you end up using for R9 and R15?, should i just use 3k9 to start?

Thanks
jaidee
Jasper build completed with everything up and running as it should - what a fantastic project!

The one thing I can't get to work is the MiniMIDI Wasp interface kit I bought from Elby Designs. This is the latest version which has errors on the PCB requiring some extra caps (which aren't referenced on the BOM) to be added next to the crystal with leads formed into additional links. I've done all of this, but upon connecting to the extra Link holes on the Jasper board and sending some simple MIDI signals from an ancient Bass Station keyboard, nothing happens - no sound whatsoever from the Jasper.


Anyone had any similar problems or got any ideas about how to troubleshoot the MiniMIDI board?

My elementary troubleshooting skills (prodding haphazardly with a MultiMeter) fall completely short where digital circuits are concerned. All I can say reasonably confidently is that I have the appropriate 5v power into the board and have connected the MIDI In socket precisely as shown in the Elby build guide. I'm also reasonably confident that I've got the correct wiring from the MiniMIDI to the Jasper.

Any help appreciated!
shiftr
I just discovered the newer PCB's have a trigger input mod option. Is there a way to do this on the version 1 PCB?
Kipling
I haven't built my MiniMIDI Wasp interface yet so would appreciate any comments too before I start
shiftr
Just started up and calibrated my rev 1 Jasper w00t

Very nice.

Though it seems to have a very narrow sweet spot for the keyboard triggers
I can get it to work right but the sweet spot on the pot is really small.
To high and it triggers it self in some high note. To low and i get a constant retriggering on the notes.
Anything i can do about it ? i already tried 2 different power supplies.
AonFLuX
chelikan wrote:
Hi guys, what value did you end up using for R9 and R15?, should i just use 3k9 to start?

Thanks


Yes, no one wants to share their used values or? smile
Kipling
AonFLuX wrote:
chelikan wrote:
Hi guys, what value did you end up using for R9 and R15?, should i just use 3k9 to start?

Thanks


Yes, no one wants to share their used values or? smile


I used 3.9k as per BOM which puts the master tune pot about 90 degrees out anti-clockwise for proper tuning, so 4.7k may be a better bet.
r0main
Build finished: Noise, filter, LFO, envelops (when in repeat & hold 1) working. It's peanut butter jelly time!

But no manual trigger, nor Osc1 nor Osc 2. I think I have a keyboard problem, or a Link problem. hmmm.....

Questions:
    Should I solder the two D9 ending pins together ?

    Is the LINK ribbon needed, even when not using any LINK outside connect yet?


Thank you for your feedback.
Altitude909
r0main wrote:

..But no manual trigger..


did you jumper the ext trigger header?
r0main
Nope, T&S ?
synthetek
Got the correct CD4019 IC and now mine is working!. Everything works good but the headphone out is still noisy, I have no speaker and a 47r resistor on the speaker out and I have tried several different types of LM386. My headphones work fine on the line out and the line out sounds good.

Altitude909
r0main wrote:
Nope, T&S ?


yes
stringsthings
synthetek wrote:
Got the correct CD4019 IC and now mine is working!. Everything works good but the headphone out is still noisy, I have no speaker and a 47r resistor on the speaker out and I have tried several different types of LM386. My headphones work fine on the line out and the line out sounds good.



Glad you got it working. Not sure about the headphone noise. I haven't tried my headphone out yet. I put my build aside while I'm waiting on the case.
synthetek
I just confirmed that there is noise on the line out too when plugged into a mixer. The noise is present when the volume is turned all the way down and does not get louder when the volume is turned up, same thing on headphone out. I am going to try to power with batteries and see if it's the power supply I am using that's causing it.
r0main
Altitude909 wrote:
r0main wrote:
Nope, T&S ?


yes


Dear Altitude909, thank you, it was exactly this, working now! nanners
Altitude909
Kipling wrote:

If you want both Hold functions (for Rev 2 PCBs only) try 108-0046-EVX which is a DPDT centre-off. Still has the tiny 10-48 mounting thread so careful positioning is required. Again beware of the transistors below; I bent mine over to give extra clearance.



I assume you wired it up as hold1 - off - hold2?
Kipling
Altitude909 wrote:
Kipling wrote:

If you want both Hold functions (for Rev 2 PCBs only) try 108-0046-EVX which is a DPDT centre-off. Still has the tiny 10-48 mounting thread so careful positioning is required. Again beware of the transistors below; I bent mine over to give extra clearance.



I assume you wired it up as hold1 - off - hold2?


I haven't yet as I don't have the relevant switch but that would be the way to do it.
r0main
Working, first test [s]https://soundcloud.com/allision/demo-jasper[/s] Rockin' Banana!
chelikan
Kipling wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
Kipling wrote:

If you want both Hold functions (for Rev 2 PCBs only) try 108-0046-EVX which is a DPDT centre-off. Still has the tiny 10-48 mounting thread so careful positioning is required. Again beware of the transistors below; I bent mine over to give extra clearance.



I assume you wired it up as hold1 - off - hold2?


I haven't yet as I don't have the relevant switch but that would be the way to do it.


Just wiring up the hold toggle switch, just a little confused with the wiring, i have a 3 pin on-off-on switch 108-0046-EVX. I know hold switch 1 is a switch to ground, what about hold switch 2, does i t share a gnd with hold switch 1?, what should be wired on the off pin?

Thanks
Altitude909
You need a DPDT (2 rows of 3). One direction is 1, center is off, the other direction is 2

Wired:

NC | H1 | H1
H2 | H2 | NC

Jason: Please update the build doc for rev 2 additions! This is going to come up a lot
Kipling
Although the generic image shows only a 3 pin SPDT switch, 108-0046-EVX is described by Mouser as a DPDT centre off so should have 6 pins. Is this not the case?
Altitude909
the one in the BOM is a SPST
Kipling
Altitude909 wrote:
the one in the BOM is a SPST

Correct, but that one's a 108-0044-EVX. The one we are talking about here is the 108-0046-EVX which is supposed to be DPDT centre-off.
chelikan
Kipling wrote:
Although the generic image shows only a 3 pin SPDT switch, 108-0046-EVX is described by Mouser as a DPDT centre off so should have 6 pins. Is this not the case?


just looked at my mouser order and i ordered a 108-0044-EVX by mistake... very frustrating i can't remember how that happened, okay thanks everyone this now makes much more sense...
Heavy Metal Kid
Aprroximately how much do the components and parts add up to, apart from the actual kit?
Altitude909
Heavy Metal Kid wrote:
Aprroximately how much do the components and parts add up to, apart from the actual kit?


About $130

On an unrelated topic: Who's done external LFO in?
jensu
Altitude909 wrote:
Heavy Metal Kid wrote:
Aprroximately how much do the components and parts add up to, apart from the actual kit?


About $130

On an unrelated topic: Who's done external LFO in?


I was wondering if that was possible! I tried to look up some mods on the original, but couldn't find any previous ones.
Heavy Metal Kid
Altitude909 wrote:
Heavy Metal Kid wrote:
Aprroximately how much do the components and parts add up to, apart from the actual kit?


About $130


Thank you!
PWM
Altitude909 wrote:
Who's done external LFO in?


I don't understand what you mean with external LFO in? A CV input? Reset trigger?
Altitude909
PWM wrote:
Altitude909 wrote:
Who's done external LFO in?


I don't understand what you mean with external LFO in? A CV input? Reset trigger?

Control via external CV. I've always found that great fun is to be had in drone mode with Jasper and having a way to sync all that would nice
PWM
Adding a CV input or a reset Trigger to the Wasp's LFO isn't a simple "add a resistor and jack" mod, unfortunately. It's easier to build another LFO.
I'd love to make mine semi-modular when I've build it. Haven't start building yet though, and I won't for a while..
shiftr
How good is the keyboard response on most people's Jasper?

I can get it to work 'OK' but certainly not great.

I need to set it very close to the 'self' trigger point to get it to trigger nicely on the keyboard. But i always get a lot of note retriggers if i'm holding a note.
Is this normal or do i have a problem?
seriously, i just don't get it
jensu
shiftr wrote:
How good is the keyboard response on most people's Jasper?

I can get it to work 'OK' but certainly not great.

I need to set it very close to the 'self' trigger point to get it to trigger nicely on the keyboard. But i always get a lot of note retriggers if i'm holding a note.
Is this normal or do i have a problem?
seriously, i just don't get it


Mine is rock solid, and I'm sure that there would more talk about if it was a general problem.

Did you follow the keyboard calibration as per the build instructions? If so, it sounds like htere might be an error somewhere.
shiftr
OK thanks! Then i have to check it some more...
Sharktootth
Sweet.
shiftr
jensu wrote:
shiftr wrote:
How good is the keyboard response on most people's Jasper?

I can get it to work 'OK' but certainly not great.

I need to set it very close to the 'self' trigger point to get it to trigger nicely on the keyboard. But i always get a lot of note retriggers if i'm holding a note.
Is this normal or do i have a problem?
seriously, i just don't get it


Mine is rock solid, and I'm sure that there would more talk about if it was a general problem.

Did you follow the keyboard calibration as per the build instructions? If so, it sounds like htere might be an error somewhere.


I had a look and i found out i have the HCF4013Be in stead of the CD4013BE
would that explain my problem? I have several HC versions i still had in my drawers used in the Jasper. Any reason i should replace them all for CD versions?
Altitude909
^
They are the same thing, just different brands.

Did you trim the sensitivity per the instructions? i.e. trim until it self triggers, then dial it back until it stops with the other pot in the middle position? (like a coarse/fine thing)
jensu
The top right spacer is grounded. Does it make a difference for the sensitivity if yu touch that with one hand, while you play the keyboard with the other?
batank
regarding the keyboard retriggering, after experimenting with different power sources, any issues could be blamed on a cheap switching DC adapter.

Using a proper DC supply with transformer or running on batteries I get solid tracking.
Altitude909
Just a heads up for people looking for a speaker:

I can endorse the 3"x5" Chinese "L001B". Actually loud enough to be useful

MCM stocks them in the US
AonFLuX
There is no polarity on the 2-pole 12-step rotarys, are there?
http://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1060/?qs=PXF%252blbo4VJ6P2 BkUaMOr8w%3d%3d

I just wondered since there is a + sign on the PCBs for the rotary switches..
Kipling
AonFLuX wrote:
There is no polarity on the 2-pole 12-step rotarys, are there?
http://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1060/?qs=PXF%252blbo4VJ6P2 BkUaMOr8w%3d%3d

I just wondered since there is a + sign on the PCBs for the rotary switches..

I don't believe so. If you use the Alpha switches they have a plastic 'pip' which goes where the + sign is on the PCB which is probably what was intended. With all the switches turned fully anti-clockwise the flat on the shaft face the keyboard.
AonFLuX
Kipling wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
There is no polarity on the 2-pole 12-step rotarys, are there?
http://www.mouser.se/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1060/?qs=PXF%252blbo4VJ6P2 BkUaMOr8w%3d%3d

I just wondered since there is a + sign on the PCBs for the rotary switches..

I don't believe so. If you use the Alpha switches they have a plastic 'pip' which goes where the + sign is on the PCB which is probably what was intended. With all the switches turned fully anti-clockwise the flat on the shaft face the keyboard.


Ok, thanks. Since they are 2-pol, they are symmetric so should work either way. I alligned them with the mentioned "pip" on the switches I got with the + sign anyways smile
shiftr
jensu wrote:
The top right spacer is grounded. Does it make a difference for the sensitivity if yu touch that with one hand, while you play the keyboard with the other?

That certainly does help!
But i don't want to lose one hand while playing. And wearing a wrist band also doesn't make much sense for me. I've got to get it more tight.
What would changing the value of R137 do? Jason mentioned he changed it from the original value.
LektroiD
shiftr wrote:
jensu wrote:
shiftr wrote:
How good is the keyboard response on most people's Jasper?

I can get it to work 'OK' but certainly not great.

I need to set it very close to the 'self' trigger point to get it to trigger nicely on the keyboard. But i always get a lot of note retriggers if i'm holding a note.
Is this normal or do i have a problem?
seriously, i just don't get it


Mine is rock solid, and I'm sure that there would more talk about if it was a general problem.

Did you follow the keyboard calibration as per the build instructions? If so, it sounds like htere might be an error somewhere.


I had a look and i found out i have the HCF4013Be in stead of the CD4013BE
would that explain my problem? I have several HC versions i still had in my drawers used in the Jasper. Any reason i should replace them all for CD versions?


I had this... If you don't solve it with the 4013's, try swapping out the 3x 4016 chips just above the keyboard. The ones I initially used were old RS ones, which caused problems, but the replacement ones worked fine.
masstropicas
Hey where/when can I buy a jasper?
Kipling
masstropicas wrote:
Hey where/when can I buy a jasper?

See the main thread https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=151625&start=825&pos tdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
legolasara
guys im getting crazy.i can get any voltage on the IC sockets.im using 9V battery ,i ve checked the voltage regulator its oriented correctly.when i try to check DC sockets voltage its perfect 9V but like i said ICsockets have no voltage.what can i do guys :(
duff
Have you got 9V at the regulator?

Is the power led lit?

And just in case - I spent a while checking my first Jasper for power before realising I hadn't switched the volume knob to on...
Kipling
Are you connecting the 9V battery to the 2-pin battery header, and if so do you have the external DC in socket fitted? This is a switched socket which interrupts the battery source negative line when a plug is inserted into it so if it is missing or the normally closed contact is defective or a dry joint you'll get no power to the main on-off switch.
shiftr
I replaced the 3 4016's and now the keyboard is really good. applause
There is only one key left that doesn't respond very wel so i suspect a bad solder joint on that one.


LektroiD wrote:
shiftr wrote:
jensu wrote:
shiftr wrote:
How good is the keyboard response on most people's Jasper?

I can get it to work 'OK' but certainly not great.

I need to set it very close to the 'self' trigger point to get it to trigger nicely on the keyboard. But i always get a lot of note retriggers if i'm holding a note.
Is this normal or do i have a problem?
seriously, i just don't get it


Mine is rock solid, and I'm sure that there would more talk about if it was a general problem.

Did you follow the keyboard calibration as per the build instructions? If so, it sounds like htere might be an error somewhere.


I had a look and i found out i have the HCF4013Be in stead of the CD4013BE
would that explain my problem? I have several HC versions i still had in my drawers used in the Jasper. Any reason i should replace them all for CD versions?


I had this... If you don't solve it with the 4013's, try swapping out the 3x 4016 chips just above the keyboard. The ones I initially used were old RS ones, which caused problems, but the replacement ones worked fine.
legolasara
guys thanks for the answer.i didnt mount the Power led.now im getting 5V on the most ICs.some ICs still has 0V.here are the results:
IC1----0v
IC2---0v
IC3---0v
IC6---0v
IC23---0.03v

what do you think ?
Kipling
legolasara wrote:
guys thanks for the answer.i didnt mount the Power led.now im getting 5V on the most ICs.some ICs still has 0V.here are the results:
IC1----0v
IC2---0v
IC3---0v
IC6---0v
IC23---0.03v

what do you think ?

Note that only the 4000 series CMOS logic ICs will have 5V on pin 14 or 16 as appropriate. Opamps and any other analogue chip such the 555 will probably not. Don't have the list of what's what in front of me but it is correct that not all will have 5V where you might expect to find it.
legolasara
Kipling wrote:
legolasara wrote:
guys thanks for the answer.i didnt mount the Power led.now im getting 5V on the most ICs.some ICs still has 0V.here are the results:
IC1----0v
IC2---0v
IC3---0v
IC6---0v
IC23---0.03v

what do you think ?

Note that only the 4000 series CMOS logic ICs will have 5V on pin 14 or 16 as appropriate. Opamps and any other analogue chip such the 555 will probably not. Don't have the list of what's what in front of me but it is correct that not all will have 5V where you might expect to find it.


You are really great person.IC1 -IC2 are 555.IC3 and IC6 are lm137000.IC23 is LM386.also i dont know how can i connect panel mounted pts and the switch.can you help me about that ?
ikkini
Hi everyone,

I've finished my Jasper a fex days ago and everything was working as expected.

Yesterday, I was working on a track and decided to use my Jasper to record a solo track. I took my tuner to get it perfectly in tune and I noticed that tuning was 3/4 semitone too high ! I wanted to correct that via the tune knob, but the range is not large enough to get my Jasper in tune...

Any idea ?
dalhasumai
Anyone tried this ? http://ua726.co.uk/2016/02/28/midiwasp-kind-of/
It's not working for me, i'm getting random notes...
legolasara
guys my wasp clone is not working.actually it works like in the video.keyboard doesnt respond.almost every IC has 5V except 555.it has 0V and LM13700 has -2.3V.what can i do ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-d-MCqItzI
Allotropes
magman wrote:
Does anyone possibly have any info on the EDP Caterpillar controller, ideally a circuit diagram, as I plan to build 4 Jaspers in total and would like a matching controller.

At least 2 of my new Jaspers will be rack mounted, I'm just about to buy a 3U case for the first one. I will post some photo's when I've made some progress.

Regards

Magman


I recently repaired my EDP Caterpillar and took some photos of the board with which you might be able to sketch a schematic from. I've also made a list of the ICs, most of which are just CD4xxx series (hence the repair ;-)). PM me if you'd like more detailed images.
AonFLuX
Is there any wiring guide for the 100k panelmount pots?
Just need a sort of pin-to-pin guide. Tried to look in the schematics, but not really sure hmmm.....
synthetek
AonFLuX wrote:
Is there any wiring guide for the 100k panelmount pots?
Just need a sort of pin-to-pin guide. Tried to look in the schematics, but not really sure hmmm.....


Black wire towards the keyboard side of the PCB

AonFLuX
synthetek wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
Is there any wiring guide for the 100k panelmount pots?
Just need a sort of pin-to-pin guide. Tried to look in the schematics, but not really sure hmmm.....


Black wire towards the keyboard side of the PCB



Thank you!
Now saw that you jumpered the two upper pins to get "full volume" of the oscillators when calibrating. Which makes it easier to figure out the pinout.
No on to putting 1 million IC's into sockets smile
captnapalm
Has anyone found a good US-available alternate part for the Cliff FCR1295 jacks? Newark wants that pesky $20 shipping fee from UK.
AonFLuX
Now my Jasper is done - just some calibration to do.
Man, this sounds raw and nice, mmmm Rockin' Banana!

Jason; Again, thank you for this very well done project. The PCB, the documentation, the layout, everything is top-notch!
mikecameron
captnapalm wrote:
Has anyone found a good US-available alternate part for the Cliff FCR1295 jacks? Newark wants that pesky $20 shipping fee from UK.


Yes, this. I'd be happy to share in the shipping cost, maybe some other US builders would too?
ikkini
Done !

Bodo1967
ikkini wrote:
Done !


Not quite. There's no knobs on the pots yet hihi .

Nah, just kidding. Looks awesome. Can't wait to start with mine when Jason does the next PCB production run Rockin' Banana! grin.
delayed
Has anyone used the battery pack on these? If so is there any difference in sound and about how long does the battery pack last?
Starspawn
delayed wrote:
Has anyone used the battery pack on these? If so is there any difference in sound and about how long does the battery pack last?


Yes, no, about forever It's peanut butter jelly time!
Altitude909
delayed wrote:
Has anyone used the battery pack on these? If so is there any difference in sound and about how long does the battery pack last?


I've only used the batteries so far. Works great
captnapalm
mikecameron wrote:
captnapalm wrote:
Has anyone found a good US-available alternate part for the Cliff FCR1295 jacks? Newark wants that pesky $20 shipping fee from UK.


Yes, this. I'd be happy to share in the shipping cost, maybe some other US builders would too?



I just ordered 33 (11 sets) of these jacks from Newark. I'll supply them at cost, $8.50/set + postage within the US. Please PM me if you're interested in a set. First 10 people get them. This is fun!
ikkini
some sound

[s]https://soundcloud.com/wilfriedt/jasper-edp-wasp-clone-test[/s]
delayed
ikkini wrote:
Done !



Can you post some images of your case? more angles? inside?
muncky
How did you do the case, Ikkini?
ikkini
Well i've built the "case" for about 10€. It looks good on the picture but it is very very far from perfection as I don't have the right tools and knowledge to do it the right way.

Here are some other pictures, if you have questions, please ask.




Allotropes
dalhasumai wrote:
Anyone tried this ? http://ua726.co.uk/2016/02/28/midiwasp-kind-of/
It's not working for me, i'm getting random notes...


Yes, I've built this for an original Wasp, it works pretty good. I had the seemingly random notes too at first until I worked out I'd overthought the numbering on the 7pin DIN. The EDP link order is just one to one with the DIN pin positions, not the conventional nominal DIN ordering.
GryphonP3
I'm ripping my hair out over here. i've built a jasper and all functions work perfectly, but there is a very loud hum tat bypasses both the filter and the VCA, but is present at all outputs. It sounds like a fat saw wave, and is very loud. It is there consistantly regardless of oscillator settings, filter settings, VCA open/closed, etc. seems like some kind of power bleed or ground issue or something, but I cant figure out where to check. Any suggestions? Not sure if I have done the power links right.. If I dont have battery packs connected, is tere a mandatory link that I'm missing that could cause something like this? I want to install battery packs in the future but dont have the parts on hand. Anyway, seems like something that is probably easy to fix.. But currently unuseable and I've not had a problem with this type of hum before Dead Banana it sounds like a bad jack connection is constantly buzzing.
synthetek
GryphonP3 wrote:
I'm ripping my hair out over here. i've built a jasper and all functions work perfectly, but there is a very loud hum tat bypasses both the filter and the VCA, but is present at all outputs.


I am am having a similar problem, i tried battery power to see if my power supply was causing it but it's still there on battery power too.
sixty_n
did you put the resistor across the speaker terminals (if you arent connecting the speaker)? I think mine had a similar hum before I put that on
GryphonP3
sixty_n wrote:
did you put the resistor across the speaker terminals (if you arent connecting the speaker)? I think mine had a similar hum before I put that on


I haven't. I will try it when I'm home. Inwas under the impression that this only affected the phones jack from the wording in the build guide, and the problem also appears at my line out jack. Will report back in a few hours.
LektroiD
Any way to push the resonance into self oscillation?
GryphonP3
LektroiD wrote:
Any way to push the resonance into self oscillation?


Mine self oscillates with no mods MY ASS IS BLEEDING is that not normally the case?
GryphonP3
sixty_n wrote:
did you put the resistor across the speaker terminals (if you arent connecting the speaker)? I think mine had a similar hum before I put that on


Put a 47R resistor. Didn't fix it, unfortunately confused
synthetek
GryphonP3 wrote:
sixty_n wrote:
did you put the resistor across the speaker terminals (if you arent connecting the speaker)? I think mine had a similar hum before I put that on


Put a 47R resistor. Didn't fix it, unfortunately confused


That didn't help mine either
GryphonP3
synthetek wrote:
GryphonP3 wrote:
sixty_n wrote:
did you put the resistor across the speaker terminals (if you arent connecting the speaker)? I think mine had a similar hum before I put that on


Put a 47R resistor. Didn't fix it, unfortunately confused


That didn't help mine either


Damn. When I remove my IC5 (the Volume/Gain Op Amp) the humming stops, but so does any audio output. It's the only IC removal that effects the hum. When I remove IC6 (the VCA op amp) the humming remains. Leads me to believe that the humming is occurring somewhere after the VCA stage, but before the Volume/Power pot. Maybe it even IS my volume/power pot! The pot itself does not change the level of the hum. The hum is just at a constant level when I turn the wasp on. The filter does nothing to the hum either.

want to try removing your IC5 to see if you have the same problem as me? If you do, I will keep you posted on my experiments. The schematic doesn't show that much is going on after the VCA stage, which means it should be narrowed down to only a few components in the circuit...

If anyone else has suggestions of what could be causing it or where to start looking, feel free to chime in!
GryphonP3
GryphonP3 wrote:
synthetek wrote:
GryphonP3 wrote:
sixty_n wrote:
did you put the resistor across the speaker terminals (if you arent connecting the speaker)? I think mine had a similar hum before I put that on


Put a 47R resistor. Didn't fix it, unfortunately confused


That didn't help mine either


Damn. When I remove my IC5 (the Volume/Gain Op Amp) the humming stops, but so does any audio output. It's the only IC removal that effects the hum. When I remove IC6 (the VCA op amp) the humming remains. Leads me to believe that the humming is occurring somewhere after the VCA stage, but before the Volume/Power pot. Maybe it even IS my volume/power pot! The pot itself does not change the level of the hum. The hum is just at a constant level when I turn the wasp on. The filter does nothing to the hum either.

want to try removing your IC5 to see if you have the same problem as me? If you do, I will keep you posted on my experiments. The schematic doesn't show that much is going on after the VCA stage, which means it should be narrowed down to only a few components in the circuit...

If anyone else has suggestions of what could be causing it or where to start looking, feel free to chime in!


Solved... I was using a 12V PSU and it needed 9V Dead Banana Hahahaha
ehafh
just wanted to check again to see if the files for 3d printed sides are available yet?
if they aren't perfect i don't mind. thumbs up


muncky
AonFLuX wrote:
synthetek wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
Is there any wiring guide for the 100k panelmount pots?
Just need a sort of pin-to-pin guide. Tried to look in the schematics, but not really sure hmmm.....


Black wire towards the keyboard side of the PCB



Thank you!
Now saw that you jumpered the two upper pins to get "full volume" of the oscillators when calibrating. Which makes it easier to figure out the pinout.


I'm having late night brain drain - for the 50k Log (VR19 and VR 20), the Osc level ones, does the black wire go nearest the keyboard again? I'm almost sure Ive wired back to front hmmm.....
AonFLuX
muncky wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
synthetek wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
Is there any wiring guide for the 100k panelmount pots?
Just need a sort of pin-to-pin guide. Tried to look in the schematics, but not really sure hmmm.....


Black wire towards the keyboard side of the PCB



Thank you!
Now saw that you jumpered the two upper pins to get "full volume" of the oscillators when calibrating. Which makes it easier to figure out the pinout.


I'm having late night brain drain - for the 50k Log (VR19 and VR 20), the Osc level ones, does the black wire go nearest the keyboard again? I'm almost sure Ive wired back to front hmmm.....


Yes, black in the image, I put closest to the keyboard. And that worked! smile
muncky
AonFLuX wrote:
muncky wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
synthetek wrote:
AonFLuX wrote:
Is there any wiring guide for the 100k panelmount pots?
Just need a sort of pin-to-pin guide. Tried to look in the schematics, but not really sure hmmm.....


Black wire towards the keyboard side of the PCB



Thank you!
Now saw that you jumpered the two upper pins to get "full volume" of the oscillators when calibrating. Which makes it easier to figure out the pinout.



I'm having late night brain drain - for the 50k Log (VR19 and VR 20), the Osc level ones, does the black wire go nearest the keyboard again? I'm almost sure Ive wired back to front hmmm.....


Yes, black in the image, I put closest to the keyboard. And that worked! smile


Bums... Dead Banana - will sort before testing... so, is it the r verse for the volume attenuator?
Thanks
synthetek
The external input pot uses only 2 pins on the pot and they connect to the 2 pins on pcb away from the keyboard.
Isaiah
Has anyone thought about, or tried, tapping the output of each Oscillator and feeding them into an XOR "Ring Modulator" (like an MS-20 or Odyssey)?
The output could be normalised to the External input socket.
Could be a useful and simple addition, though I'm not sure if the External input's level control turns all the way down to silence; you'd hear the XOR output bleeding through...
loderbast
are there any changes in the bom for the 3rd run?

there is nothing mentioned in the first post, but i am not sure if there is going to be an update or if i can just order the v2 bom.
tekzon
Hey dears!
anyone would share his shopping list, mouser would be great,
but open to any other..?
Thanks in advance for your shares.

Cheers!
goodbyefuture
About to order my part list. Just wondered if anyone that has had success with the build has saved their project or shopping cart in Mouser and could share with me, so I could compare what I have in my cart and make sure I don't screw up and order the wrong parts (likely) aha. smile

Thanks! This is fun!
col
Just ordered my parts. There is a Mouser BOM back in the discussion somewhere around July I think...
loderbast
i am based in germany and tryed to get everything from here and avoid mouser this time. thats why i tryed to get as much as possible from reichelt. i thought it might be helpful if i shared my reichelt shopping cart:
https://www.reichelt.de/my/1264558
some of the caps are cheapo ceramic ones where bom says "C0G ceramic" or have the wrong pin spacing (need bending of legs)
the hex spacers in there are 15mm instead of 17mm but it also contains washers to make up the 2mm difference.

i only got the pots and rotary switches from musikding
Cliff Knobs and TLC555CP from tme [edit: thats www.tme.eu]
LED-man
loderbast wrote:
i am based in germany and tryed to get everything from here and avoid mouser this time. thats why i tryed to get as much as possible from reichelt. i thought it might be helpful if i shared my reichelt shopping cart:
https://www.reichelt.de/my/1264558
some of the caps are cheapo ceramic ones where bom says "C0G ceramic" or have the wrong pin spacing (need bending of legs)
the hex spacers in there are 15mm instead of 17mm but it also contains washers to make up the 2mm difference.

i only got the pots and rotary switches from musikding
Cliff Knobs and TLC555CP from tme


12mm spacer with 5mm spacer works fine too.
mangros
Isaiah wrote:
Has anyone thought about, or tried, tapping the output of each Oscillator and feeding them into an XOR "Ring Modulator" (like an MS-20 or Odyssey)?
The output could be normalised to the External input socket.
Could be a useful and simple addition, though I'm not sure if the External input's level control turns all the way down to silence; you'd hear the XOR output bleeding through...


I did this with a 4070 (it's somewhere early on in this thread) - the inputs came from each square, and the output went to a spare rotary switch pin. It's limited due to the lack of independent osc modulation, but it's good for metallic clangs and drones.
muncky
(apologies in advance if I'm the only one excited by this minor revelation Miley Cyrus )

nearing the business end of my build, and I'm not sure if the tip is useful or not, but I used plastic washers under my pots, which seemed to space them almost perfectly with the adjusted vertical mount pots -and even better, they are rock solid on the panel with no wiggle

Allotropes
Finished the build at last, shockingly everything worked 100% first time and it sounds just as good as the originals ... maybe even a little better Chugging Beers
naegleria
goodbyefuture wrote:
About to order my part list. Just wondered if anyone that has had success with the build has saved their project or shopping cart in Mouser and could share with me, so I could compare what I have in my cart and make sure I don't screw up and order the wrong parts (likely) aha. smile

Thanks! This is fun!


col wrote:
Just ordered my parts. There is a Mouser BOM back in the discussion somewhere around July I think...



Hey, either of you happen to save your Mouser carts? Huge noob here trying to get all the parts right! I looked back in the posts for July but couldn't find any Mouser BOM...

Thanks so much.
muncky
naegleria wrote:
goodbyefuture wrote:
About to order my part list. Just wondered if anyone that has had success with the build has saved their project or shopping cart in Mouser and could share with me, so I could compare what I have in my cart and make sure I don't screw up and order the wrong parts (likely) aha. smile

Thanks! This is fun!


col wrote:
Just ordered my parts. There is a Mouser BOM back in the discussion somewhere around July I think...



Hey, either of you happen to save your Mouser carts? Huge noob here trying to get all the parts right! I looked back in the posts for July but couldn't find any Mouser BOM...



Here's my BOM - you'll also need the pots which I got from Small Bear
.
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2289112&highlight=#2 289112
naegleria
muncky wrote:
naegleria wrote:
goodbyefuture wrote:
About to order my part list. Just wondered if anyone that has had success with the build has saved their project or shopping cart in Mouser and could share with me, so I could compare what I have in my cart and make sure I don't screw up and order the wrong parts (likely) aha. smile

Thanks! This is fun!


col wrote:
Just ordered my parts. There is a Mouser BOM back in the discussion somewhere around July I think...



Hey, either of you happen to save your Mouser carts? Huge noob here trying to get all the parts right! I looked back in the posts for July but couldn't find any Mouser BOM...



Here's my BOM - you'll also need the pots which I got from Small Bear
.
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2289112&highlight=#2 289112



Whoaaa thank you! Have you completed your build? Will definitely pick up the pots as well.
muncky
Powered it up last night and all seems good, thanks thumbs up - final few bits to go (battery boxes, switch, and rewire the flying pots), and wait for the case...

Got to say thanks for the awesome build doc tho - really helps!
naegleria
muncky wrote:
Powered it up last night and all seems good, thanks thumbs up - final few bits to go (battery boxes, switch, and rewire the flying pots), and wait for the case...

Got to say thanks for the awesome build doc tho - really helps!


Awesome smile Last question, what are you using for a case?! Thanks again! Rockin' Banana!
muncky
Intending to go post with the crustibooga model, assuming it's nearly there:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166307&highlight=
nebula
I'm just putting together my parts orders - I'm wondering if anyone has a preference on the rotary switches, Alpha vs. Lorlin. Is one better than the other?
nologin
I think nobody can answer your question because it would use the 2 switches in the long term, to compare. The two have very similar air except the color and price.

Otherwise it necessery power supply must be a minimum 200mA, i have a 180mA, my synthesizer with a normal work and this power supply is not heating. Do you think it is enough, knowing that i did not install the speakers and I will not be installing? hmmm.....
PWM
Seems like the 180mA is enough. If it waren't you'd probably notice on strange behavior or a high pitched noise in the signal output.
nologin
PWM thank you, yes with 180mA it looks to work well. Jasper is not greedy. Mr. Green
rv0
is there any cheap method of MTA100 insertion? The tool costs an insane amount of money, seems easy to make with a 3D printer, or a dremel tool and a big flat head screw driver smile
batank
rv0 wrote:
is there any cheap method of MTA100 insertion? The tool costs an insane amount of money, seems easy to make with a 3D printer, or a dremel tool and a big flat head screw driver smile


$30 really is not cheap for that giant plastic handle, especially if you only do the occasional header.

I used a small blunt screwdriver myself, but just make sure you check continuity after doing it this way. I had to use some considerable force before the connection was totally solid. I also gave it a few loving squeezes on the sides with a pliers after for good luck.
MalteseSynther
....and the first Maltese Jasper buzzes into life!!!!! It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners Rockin' Banana! It's peanut butter jelly time! Rockin' Banana! Kudos to we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy Jason we're not worthy we're not worthy we're not worthy for the excellent PCB and all the help it has built into it. Well done mate.. Guinness ftw! ..My insect fired up first try with absolutely no apparent issues.. applause applause applause ..still to be tuned and tweaked, but now it is time to conjure up a naff enclosure......Tally Ho!!!!!! screaming goo yo
nologin
Completed soon, missing more than finishes and hue.
Do not ask me a file, it's a DIY case, i built the ancient technic without a plan, taking little measure and almost everything "by eye".
I used bare floorboards, in chinese oak. There was already a notch to max out a board. But the plunging mini circular saw was my friend. hihi

Shufflehound
Tutti fruitti synth. And found a nice suitcase to put that and a big speaker in, though that'll be tricky.



I have to say though, thank you so much for this, Jason, it's a marvellous instrument.
batank
Shufflehound wrote:
Tutti fruitti synth. And found a nice suitcase to put that and a big speaker in, though that'll be tricky.


Nice knob selection, particularly on the rotary switches. I hope you post pics of the suitcase at some point.

Hey, what's the panel mounted jack connected to?
Godric
Fairly vanilla build, still working on a case (are the 3D yellow sides available) a couple of pictures:



Was pretty straightforward and worked first time - although the keyboard sense seems a bit iffy - still watching that.

Godric
deram
my jasper was working well.
it was connected with a 9v battery nimh.
since i put a new battery my keyboard is silent.
the sensivity pot don't work.(when i turn the 100k trimpot sometime i hear a quick bip)with a helmet i can hear the lfo working
i make the first test betwin 7-8 volt
I seek a configuration that allow myself to test failure

edit: when i push on the IC 32(4040) and playing note on the keyboard
it work!!!!
probably a could solder.
nologin
Completed, it lacks the bottom panel and the interface and CV / Gate and midi. Thank you to Jason and also to the other people working on improvements.









If someone want information, how i built this wooden case and what tools i used. I can explain in my Frenchglish... It cost me about 60e and i still have plenty of wood for the sides to my other synths. By cons i spent a lot of hours ...
col
That looks awesome applause

I notice that you have IEC socket on the back. What did you use for power supply? I like your use of the lower profile knobs too, I'm wondering if it is possible to paint the silver insert black?

Nice work thumbs up
nologin
A regulated wallart which i deleted the case. The knobs are Tayda, i do not think black paint would lasting above, i took them there because they are cheap.
col
Nologin, yeah, Iv'e been looking at the Tayda knobs too. I'm wondering about the Marshall Gold ones...

Just did the first power on test, have 5v on all sockets (except lm386 and LM13700).

hyper
col
Damn, wrong chips, my CD4081 are missing, replaced with CD4011 d'oh!

Thats going to put me back a week sad banana
Barron
cool
nologin
It takes a 9VDC power, but on the wasp and jasper, all integrated circuits are powered by 5V.
Drith
muncky wrote:
naegleria wrote:
goodbyefuture wrote:
About to order my part list. Just wondered if anyone that has had success with the build has saved their project or shopping cart in Mouser and could share with me, so I could compare what I have in my cart and make sure I don't screw up and order the wrong parts (likely) aha. smile

Thanks! This is fun!


col wrote:
Just ordered my parts. There is a Mouser BOM back in the discussion somewhere around July I think...



Hey, either of you happen to save your Mouser carts? Huge noob here trying to get all the parts right! I looked back in the posts for July but couldn't find any Mouser BOM...



Here's my BOM - you'll also need the pots which I got from Small Bear
.
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2289112&highlight=#2 289112


Don't use this BOM. It is missing several parts, diodes, 1M res, 0.1uF, 470nF caps and several of the ICs. It also include many extras, beyond meeting price breaks like 100 high voltage 1uF caps instead of 2 low voltage and 14 extra 4013.

Just a heads up on blindly ordering this BOM.
stringsthings
Some very nice cases !
iL
hi,

as i checked the MTA header for the osc 2 volume knops to find out where the GND is i had two of the pins beeped with ground, like this:

+---+
| 1 | GND beep
| 2 | no beep
| 3 | GND beep
+---+

is that normal behaviour? for osc 1 i just got pin 3 beeping to ground.

i recognized that i soldered the rotary switch pots in the other direction on osc 2 (as some others too) but i read the orientation of the switch pots is not a point because they are just mirrored with each pol, so the orientation of the rotary switches is not a thing. i hope so hmmm.....
duff
iL wrote:
hi,

as i checked the MTA header for the osc 2 volume knops to find out where the GND is i had two of the pins beeped with ground, like this:

+---+
| 1 | GND beep
| 2 | no beep
| 3 | GND beep
+---+

is that normal behaviour? for osc 1 i just got pin 3 beeping to ground.

i recognized that i soldered the rotary switch pots in the other direction on osc 2 (as some others too) but i read the orientation of the switch pots is not a point because they are just mirrored with each pol, so the orientation of the rotary switches is not a thing. i hope so hmmm.....


Have you got a waveform selected when you beep test - waveform switch not in position 1.
jake rothman
I found a cheap mod to reduce the high pitched switching noise on the output.
Put high value solid polymer electrolytics of 100 to 470uF on the input and output of the regulator. C29 and C30.
Shufflehound
batank wrote:
Shufflehound wrote:
Tutti fruitti synth. And found a nice suitcase to put that and a big speaker in, though that'll be tricky.


Nice knob selection, particularly on the rotary switches. I hope you post pics of the suitcase at some point.

Hey, what's the panel mounted jack connected to?


Thanks!
They're mostly Sifam knobs, and the front panel jack's just the headphones socket.
Will do once I get it in there (although I think I'll wait until I get my JasperIN PCB). It's a 'Custom' suitcase.
iL
No did not tryed this yet. but i thought about it. thanks for the tip i check it again later with different settings (not position 1).

we're not worthy

duff wrote:
iL wrote:
hi,

as i checked the MTA header for the osc 2 volume knops to find out where the GND is i had two of the pins beeped with ground, like this:

+---+
| 1 | GND beep
| 2 | no beep
| 3 | GND beep
+---+

is that normal behaviour? for osc 1 i just got pin 3 beeping to ground.

i recognized that i soldered the rotary switch pots in the other direction on osc 2 (as some others too) but i read the orientation of the switch pots is not a point because they are just mirrored with each pol, so the orientation of the rotary switches is not a thing. i hope so hmmm.....


Have you got a waveform selected when you beep test - waveform switch not in position 1.
muncky
Drith wrote:


Don't use this BOM. It is missing several parts, diodes, 1M res, 0.1uF, 470nF caps and several of the ICs. It also include many extras, beyond meeting price breaks like 100 high voltage 1uF caps instead of 2 low voltage and 14 extra 4013.

Just a heads up on blindly ordering this BOM.


If it's any help, happy to review and update the BOM listed - want to drop me a pm with specifics to adjust?

Cheers
Drith
There would be too many changes to the bom, muncky.

Here is a Mouser cart for Jasper v2. It only has the number of parts required. This cart does not include:
  • Parts that you would get if you got a "1 of everything" set from Jason.
  • Panel pots that you would get from Small Bear.
  • Knobs
  • Speaker, wire, MTA connectors.
  • Hardware: hex spaces, screws & washers.
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?Acces sID=8bfc68a7d9


Attached is an Excel file of the BOM just because I like to follow and cross out items as I populate the board.
muncky
Nice one - I'll wipe my offering from the record and direct to your update. Well play sir thumbs up
StillNotWorking
I’ve ordered those CMOS Tayda has in stock. It would be interesting to hear if others have experience using these in Jasper?
col
jake rothman wrote:
I found a cheap mod to reduce the high pitched switching noise on the output.
Put high value solid polymer electrolytics of 100 to 470uF on the input and output of the regulator. C29 and C30.


I'm not sure I would be recommending such large a value on the output cap, however replacing the stock 4.7uF with a 22uF low ESR might help. From the MPC1702 datasheet:

The output capacitor range for ceramic capacitors is
1 μF to 22 μF. Higher output capacitance values may
be used for tantalum and electrolytic capacitors. Higher
output capacitor values pull the pole of the LDO
transfer function inward that results in higher phase
shifts which in turn cause a lower crossover frequency.
The circuit designer should verify the stability by
applying line step and load step testing to their system
when using capacitance values greater than 22 μF.
fonik
Despite the fact that i still have my left ar in plaster up to the shoulder (it is the 9th week now!) i managed to finish the actual Jasper Wasp clone. I still have to build a wooden cabinet with built-in transformer and speaker, nevertheless, the synth is fully usable already.

col
fonik wrote:
Despite the fact that i still have my left ar in plaster up to the shoulder (it is the 9th week now!) i managed to finish the actual Jasper Wasp clone. I still have to build a wooden cabinet with built-in transformer and speaker, nevertheless, the synth is fully usable already.



Good stuff! applause

sorry to hear about the arm, must be handy having a built in burn proof soldering iron stand though hihi

My Jasper is waiting on one chip, very frustrating very frustrating

BTW nice work on the TH modules, I have a couple of the TH XR-VCOs and a VCA1 in frac thumbs up
iL
addition to the ringmodulator 4070 modification earlier in this thread:

i also used another part of the 4070 to do a second ringmod for the first osc. but on this i used the lfo output as the second signal. this way you have a second type of ringmod that has a fixed modulation source and the choice of different waveforms. and play with two ringmods for extra noise!


delayed
reggiechacha wrote:
reggiechacha wrote:
I've completed my build. The keyboard is not triggering the synth at all.
I've been able to test the synth functions by placing a jumper on the hold connector, and using the sustain repeat the synth is triggered. All synthesis functions work perfectly.
I've had a look at the service manual notes and schematic on the synth DIY site to see how I can trouble shoot the keyboard functionality. And I have carried out a few tests. IC39,43, and 47 seem to be ok showing a pulse on the correct pins, except for pins 11, 12, 14 and 15 on IC 43.
I also tested IC 5 and can't see evidence of a scanning clock on pin 8 as per the service manual. Also there is no trigger signal on pad T on the link connector.
If anyone can point me the best place to do more testing and give me any pointers I'd be very grateful.


Resolved this. Replaced a bad ic48 AND... I didn't realise the 2 different solder points for d9 aren't connected. Doh! No wonder the keyboard didn't trigger the vca.


Thank you for posting this. I had a bad ic48 causing the same issue.
Starspawn
iL wrote:
addition to the ringmodulator 4070 modification earlier in this thread:

i also used another part of the 4070 to do a second ringmod for the first osc. but on this i used the lfo output as the second signal. this way you have a second type of ringmod that has a fixed modulation source and the choice of different waveforms. and play with two ringmods for extra noise!




What did you use for the ring mod out inputs? Switch between them and Ext? Ext for both? Other?
delayed
My triggering issue came back. I must have something wired wrong? I swapped out ic48 CD4059ube and it fixed my issue last night. Today the issue came back when I turned in on. I cannot find a spot where the keyboard will trigger properly. It requires a hard push and still mistriggers or will not trigger. If I hold !y other hand to the ground on the external trigger jack it behaves much better. Pin readout is

1 2.5
2 2.03
3 1.6-2.4
4 1.6-4.3
5 1.3-4.3
6 .4-3.7
7 0
8 1.3-2.7
9 2.1 with a slight movement
10 0 or 5
11 0 or 5
12 0 or 5
13 1.3-3
14 5.05

External trigger wired to 1/8 jack. No trigger when I unplug the header holding the 1/8 jack.

Any help? Thoughts?

Thank you,
Shufflehound




Still some loose wires but it's getting there. (apologies for the large images)

Here is the suitcase so far (and the Jasper can be taken out of it also). I'm using C cells instead of AAs.
And a rather bizarre idea, but I found the keyboard response to be much much better when I'm earthed (that wire leads to a crocodile clip attached to the ground wire). Originally the keyboard either hardly responded to my fingers or randomly triggered for some reason.
Shufflehound
http://picosong.com/HrcK/ <- Give it a listen (some reverb added FYI)
This has to be the rudest synth I've ever heard, filled with farts and chemistry bubbles. Basically the synthesizer version of The Man In The White Suit contraption. I love it dearly.

It's nice to have 'Hold' on, and the keyboard sensitivity borderline self triggering, so it's randomly picking notes every second or so.
col
Finally my back-ordered chips arrived!

Plugged them in done some more power on tests, little bit of keyboard tuning and it's running! It's peanut butter jelly time! nanners Rockin' Banana!

Is this the first Australian Jasper?

Cheers Jason! Guinness ftw!
jackcouli
Hello Everyone,
i'm new in the forum,
i just finished the Jasper electronic part , i maid some test and everything seems to work well except the filter frequency... i wonder if it could be one of the IC ? and i don't know wich IC to look at...
someone for help me please ??
thanks a lot

Jack
NS4W
Finnished building now, but all sound i get is a thump when i touch the keys cry cry cry what to do? Ive double checked for cold joints and cap polarity...
duff
I assume the thump is the VCA opening.

To check the obvious - have you got a wave selected on the waveform switches and the VCOs cranked up (or down if you have accidentally wired the pots wired back to front)

If that all checks out then see if you have a signal at the VCO pots?
csaban
Hi All,

Finished the build a couple of days ago. After turning it on the first time, it made a lot of cracking noise so I redid some of the soldering that felt a bit short.
I must have done something really stupid because now I don't have any signal on the line out. The headphone out seems to work fine. There is also a very faint extra high pitched sound along the oscillators that seem to run constantly regardless whether I've triggered a note or not.
Any suggestions where should I start looking?

Thanks,

Csaba
PWM
The 'faint high pitched sound' you describe could be from your power adapter. Did you try to run it on batteries?
It's weird the headphones out work but not the line out. Did you triple check the line out Jack bus for bad solder joints?
csaban
Thanks PWM!

Sorry, forgot to mention, I run it on standard 9V batteries. It does not go away if I touch the ground either. I might be able to post a sound example later if that helps.
I think I redid the line out joints as well but going to check again.

PWM wrote:
The 'faint high pitched sound' you describe could be from your power adapter. Did you try to run it on batteries?
It's weird the headphones out work but not the line out. Did you triple check the line out Jack bus for bad solder joints?
peAk
For testing....

besides the external trigger mod, and the speaker resistor, what else needs to have a jumper before testing? i.e. external input, headphones, etc.?

I haven't decided how I will do my ins/outs so none of it's wired up yet.

thanks
Arnoid
Will a normal C4069 work or must it be C4069UBE ?
batank
peAk wrote:
For testing....

besides the external trigger mod, and the speaker resistor, what else needs to have a jumper before testing? i.e. external input, headphones, etc.?

I haven't decided how I will do my ins/outs so none of it's wired up yet.

thanks


IIRC the osc 1 and 2 volume headers to set them to max volume.

This brings back my memory of first powering it on and wondering if I did something wrong, till I jumper'd all the headers and got blasted with sound! SlayerBadger!
duff
Arnoid wrote:
Will a normal C4069 work or must it be C4069UBE ?


I have read in several places (see CGS 49 docs for example) that the chip used in a Wasp filter must be of the unbuffered variety to work. I am not sure about the 4069s used else where in the synth though.
csaban
Thank you again PWM! Re-soldering the line out fixed it. And the faint extra sound is absent from line out.

csaban wrote:
Thanks PWM!

Sorry, forgot to mention, I run it on standard 9V batteries. It does not go away if I touch the ground either. I might be able to post a sound example later if that helps.
I think I redid the line out joints as well but going to check again.

PWM wrote:
The 'faint high pitched sound' you describe could be from your power adapter. Did you try to run it on batteries?
It's weird the headphones out work but not the line out. Did you triple check the line out Jack bus for bad solder joints?
PWM
csaban, good news! smile
dalhasumai
Hey guys, i have a problem with my Jasper.
The adsr on the VCA sounds wrong, when in put the sustain on and i hold a note, the volume is slowly amplifying itself significaly
hear that here : https://soundcloud.com/dalhasumai/jasper-adsr-issue/s-vy09I

Does that sound familiar to anyone ?
dalhasumai
i must say i used BC547 and BC557 instead of BC547B and BC557 in the EG section but i don't think that's it
dalhasumai
Changed for BC547B just to be sure. No difference as i exepted.
What should i check ? scoped signal VCA_ENVELOPPE and i can see the volume increase.[/video]
NS4W
duff wrote:
I assume the thump is the VCA opening.

To check the obvious - have you got a wave selected on the waveform switches and the VCOs cranked up (or down if you have accidentally wired the pots wired back to front)

If that all checks out then see if you have a signal at the VCO pots?


Thank you Duff, after some more resoldering and making sure the chips sit tight I have finally got some sound - but it is very low in volume even though it is cranked to the max. I have to use a lot of gain on my mixer to even hear it. Is there a resistor controlling the output volume somewhere?
dalhasumai
Video scoping the VCA enveloppe output : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXSpoE6E9zw&feature=youtu.be

I'm running out of ideas on how to troobleshoot this...
duff
NS4W wrote:
duff wrote:
I assume the thump is the VCA opening.

To check the obvious - have you got a wave selected on the waveform switches and the VCOs cranked up (or down if you have accidentally wired the pots wired back to front)

If that all checks out then see if you have a signal at the VCO pots?


Thank you Duff, after some more resoldering and making sure the chips sit tight I have finally got some sound - but it is very low in volume even though it is cranked to the max. I have to use a lot of gain on my mixer to even hear it. Is there a resistor controlling the output volume


You could check R32 is 470R
PWM
Never mind..
mnskll
Hi jasonl, great project, i've almost successfully built mine, I have a strange issue with the RND LFO sometimes not working correctly.
My question is, can you post the pcb-overlay for the v.2 pcb? or a high enough resolution picture of the pcb to be able to see the component numbers. It would greatly help me in debugging from the backside without having o take the thing apart
thanks
Måns
jasonl wrote:
Update 31 August 2016

Finally an updated build guide attached below covering the second version PCBs!

mbroers
Has anyone collected all the potential mods into a single document?

I've seen stuff mentioned that I'd love to add to mine (i have rev1 board):

switch for lfo speed
simple ring mod using 2 squares or ring mod with lfo as a source
eg trig in
oscillation speed mod for enhanced waveform

i have an olde document from A.S. that details mods possible on the original wasp but it doesnt really help on the jasper because it only shows points on the original board where to solder jacks that dont correlate to the new layout of the jasper but it seems doable to have the following too:

vco A square out
vco A saw out
vco B square out
vco B saw out
noise out
EG1 out
EG2 out
LFO out
PWM in
VCF CV in
VCF EG Attack in
VCF EG Decay in

If no one else has started compiling this stuff I will do my best to get a single pdf together with what I've seen in this thread and what I can get out of the A.S. mods.
PWM
I'm waiting on parts for my mods. I'll share the schematics when everything is working correctly.
I decided to keep them in the box, so no CV or signal IO (except for the CV/Gate IO PCB that's available here on Muff's) IO mods for the Wasp should be buffered, the wasp runs on 5V/0V and I couldn't be bothered.


mbroers wrote:
Has anyone collected all the potential mods into a single document?

I've seen stuff mentioned that I'd love to add to mine (i have rev1 board):

switch for lfo speed
simple ring mod using 2 squares or ring mod with lfo as a source
eg trig in
oscillation speed mod for enhanced waveform

i have an olde document from A.S. that details mods possible on the original wasp but it doesnt really help on the jasper because it only shows points on the original board where to solder jacks that dont correlate to the new layout of the jasper but it seems doable to have the following too:

vco A square out
vco A saw out
vco B square out
vco B saw out
noise out
EG1 out
EG2 out
LFO out
PWM in
VCF CV in
VCF EG Attack in
VCF EG Decay in

If no one else has started compiling this stuff I will do my best to get a single pdf together with what I've seen in this thread and what I can get out of the A.S. mods.
goodbyefuture
Did you guys clean your board with 70% isopropanol then a warm water wash over the board prior to pots, trimmers, ICs? Just wondering what is best to use. i'm about to put the pots and trimmers in and wanted to clean the board up first and this is what I was thinking of doing.

*Sorry if this has been talked about before, I didn't see it in the build thread in prior conversation.

Thanks!
Bamboombaps
does anyone have a case dezign they would like to share?
Altitude909
goodbyefuture wrote:
Did you guys clean your board with 70% isopropanol then a warm water wash over the board prior to pots, trimmers, ICs? Just wondering what is best to use. i'm about to put the pots and trimmers in and wanted to clean the board up first and this is what I was thinking of doing.

*Sorry if this has been talked about before, I didn't see it in the build thread in prior conversation.

Thanks!


Depends on what flux is in your solder, the spec sheet should have cleaning instructions
chaosium
Is the 2nd BOM still up to date with the latest pcb?

Workaround aside...
jasonl
chaosium wrote:
Is the 2nd BOM still up to date with the latest pcb?

Workaround aside...


Yes. I built one of the 4th run PCBs up just using the silkscreen and BOM, They match up correctly (as far as I can see after soldering all those sockets smile )
cranleigh
Hi all,
I have just about finished mine, and it all sounds fabulous, except that the keyboard doesn't seem to be triggering the VCA. When I put the VCA in repeat mode, I can hear everything sounding great (oscillators in tune, scaling right, keyboard works perfectly for changing notes, filter perfect etc), but when I turn off VCA repeat I get nothing. I have jumpered the external trigger in header, and experimented with jumpering the 2 hold headers, to no avail. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
duff
cranleigh wrote:
Hi all,
I have just about finished mine, and it all sounds fabulous, except that the keyboard doesn't seem to be triggering the VCA. When I put the VCA in repeat mode, I can hear everything sounding great (oscillators in tune, scaling right, keyboard works perfectly for changing notes, filter perfect etc), but when I turn off VCA repeat I get nothing. I have jumpered the external trigger in header, and experimented with jumpering the 2 hold headers, to no avail. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?


Have you put the long link in by IC31?
cranleigh
duff wrote:


Have you put the long link in by IC31?


I have indeed. Will try reflowing it just in case. Any other possibilities?
duff
Can you see the trigger at pin 1 of IC44?

If so, can you see the envelope at R38?
cranleigh
No sign of a trigger on IC44 or envelope on R38. With the DMM, I see 5v at pins 2, 5, 9, 13 and 14 of IC44, and the VCA does trigger when i short pins 1 and 2 or pins 7 and 8 of IC44 (or rather, the trigger happens when I remove the probe).

Another thing that might be important is that the pitch defaults to the low C on the keyboard -it will jump up to whatever the key you press is, but once you let go, it immediately returns to low C.

Thanks a million for the help, much appreciated!
duff
If the pitch wants to be at C0 that suggests something thinks C0 is being held. Perhaps try pulling IC38 and seeing if the top 2/3rds of the keyboard springs to life.
cranleigh
duff wrote:
If the pitch wants to be at C0 that suggests something thinks C0 is being held. Perhaps try pulling IC38 and seeing if the top 2/3rds of the keyboard springs to life.


You, my friend, are some kind of tech genius. That did exactly what you suggested. I swapped the IC from 38 with another one nearby, and that reduced the span of the functioning keys quite a bit, so it looks like I had a dodgy chip.

Now, I am wondering, in these kinds of situations do people contact Mouser and say "dudes, you sent me a malfunctioning IC, please send me one that works" or is it just accepted as part of the deal that sometimes you get bad ones?

Thanks again Duff!
Arnoid
jasonl wrote:



I've not had any problems with random keyboard randomly triggering, and have had my prototypes running for hours.... thought the sensing circuit was fairly robust - as I've used several different power supplies, and plugged it into various bits of equipment.... Perhaps I'm just fortunate to be blessed with decent mains power...

Another trick to prevent spurious triggering if you're using the keyboard is to use an anti-static wrist-strap to reference yourself to the circuit. The GND pads on the right hand side of the PCB near the keyboard are for a PCB mounted banana socket... The top-right panel screw/hex spacer is also connected to GND, so you could experiment by touching this while using the keyboard with your other hand...


Finished my jasper yesterday.

Everything is working good and sounding nice hihi

But the keyboard is very sensitive sometimes double or randomly triggering when I touch a key... even if I touch the metal housing from the keyboard sensitivity pot it triggers the jasper...
I can fix it by touching the ground with my other hand then I can play the keyboard normally...

Any toughts how to fix this issue ?
I'm using a regulated Power supply 9V DC..
flts
cranleigh wrote:
Now, I am wondering, in these kinds of situations do people contact Mouser and say "dudes, you sent me a malfunctioning IC, please send me one that works" or is it just accepted as part of the deal that sometimes you get bad ones?


Especially if it's a logic IC, they are often very sensitive to static electricity. So unless you have an ESD mat on your table and a ground bracelet on your arm when working, it may be hard to figure out if the chip was actually DOA from Mouser or if you just managed to accidentally zap it while handling it before inserting.
Arnoid
Arnoid wrote:
jasonl wrote:



I've not had any problems with random keyboard randomly triggering, and have had my prototypes running for hours.... thought the sensing circuit was fairly robust - as I've used several different power supplies, and plugged it into various bits of equipment.... Perhaps I'm just fortunate to be blessed with decent mains power...

Another trick to prevent spurious triggering if you're using the keyboard is to use an anti-static wrist-strap to reference yourself to the circuit. The GND pads on the right hand side of the PCB near the keyboard are for a PCB mounted banana socket... The top-right panel screw/hex spacer is also connected to GND, so you could experiment by touching this while using the keyboard with your other hand...


Finished my jasper yesterday.

Everything is working good and sounding nice hihi

But the keyboard is very sensitive sometimes double or randomly triggering when I touch a key... even if I touch the metal housing from the keyboard sensitivity pot it triggers the jasper...
I can fix it by touching the ground with my other hand then I can play the keyboard normally...

Any toughts how to fix this issue ?
I'm using a regulated Power supply 9V DC..


If I plug in the jasper in another wall socket on another circuit (this one's upstair in my studio) everything works OK smile No more randoming triggering, etc

The Jasper seems very sensitive to the mains power.
flts
Arnoid wrote:
If I plug in the jasper in another wall socket on another circuit (this one's upstair in my studio) everything works OK smile No more randoming triggering, etc

The Jasper seems very sensitive to the mains power.


Just a thought: are both of the wall sockets properly grounded? If the first one is not, that does explain the difference.
Arnoid
Yes all the sockets are grounded

The electrical installation in my house is only 2 years old and new.
blitit
I was thinking of getting this "marshall" knobs for the jasper


Its more gold than yellow but its the best i can get here in Chile. What do you guys think?
maccadelic
Does anyone know where to get the enhanced mode PCB's? Or if there is gerber/brd files floating around?

Recieved my wasp today, but no tiny PCB's
PWM
maccadelic wrote:
Does anyone know where to get the enhanced mode PCB's? Or if there is gerber/brd files floating around?

Recieved my wasp today, but no tiny PCB's


The enhance mod is modified within the Jasper after a specific revision. It was in my 2nd run PCB, anyway.
maccadelic
PWM wrote:
maccadelic wrote:
Does anyone know where to get the enhanced mode PCB's? Or if there is gerber/brd files floating around?

Recieved my wasp today, but no tiny PCB's


The enhance mod is modified within the Jasper after a specific revision. It was in my 2nd run PCB, anyway.


Oh nice. thnaks for the reply.
grm
iL wrote:
addition to the ringmodulator 4070 modification earlier in this thread:

i also used another part of the 4070 to do a second ringmod for the first osc. but on this i used the lfo output as the second signal. this way you have a second type of ringmod that has a fixed modulation source and the choice of different waveforms. and play with two ringmods for extra noise!




i know you have your's cased up already, but maybe someone here is able to make a little schematic for the DOUBLE RING MOD MOD, i can't quite see in the picture to which pins each connection goes... seriously, i just don't get it

thanks...
peterbolmehag
Hi,

Finished a jasper build. Tested it with the line out and that is so noisy. Is that normal to have alot of noise an jitter in the background?

/peter
PWM
peterbolmehag wrote:
Hi,

Finished a jasper build. Tested it with the line out and that is so noisy. Is that normal to have alot of noise an jitter in the background?

/peter


Try it without the CD4006 in it's socket. You did put it in a socket, I hope?

Mine is quite noisy with that chip (it is the chip generating the noise) in it. Noise is almost completely gone without it.
I have to look into this some time..
ElSmurf
muncky wrote:
(apologies in advance if I'm the only one excited by this minor revelation Miley Cyrus )

nearing the business end of my build, and I'm not sure if the tip is useful or not, but I used plastic washers under my pots, which seemed to space them almost perfectly with the adjusted vertical mount pots -and even better, they are rock solid on the panel with no wiggle


Just what I needed to know, thanks! thumbs up
peterbolmehag
Hi,

My jasper worked perfectly for two days until today. Now I get random triggering that begins if I hold down my finger on the keyboard for more than about a second. The lowest key gives fast triggering with high frequency and the highest key slower trigger. It seem like it is impossible to adjust the key sensitivity trimpots (which worked perfectly for two days) to avaiod a random triggering.

Now i does not spontaneous trigger, it is when I hold down my finger constantly.

IfI earth myself (for example touch line out GND) while playing the triggering does not occur.


Any ideas?

/peter
peterbolmehag
PWM wrote:
peterbolmehag wrote:
Hi,

Finished a jasper build. Tested it with the line out and that is so noisy. Is that normal to have alot of noise an jitter in the background?

/peter


Try it without the CD4006 in it's socket. You did put it in a socket, I hope?

Mine is quite noisy with that chip (it is the chip generating the noise) in it. Noise is almost completely gone without it.
I have to look into this some time..


Tried that. Has no effect on the noise level. Though if I use my Audio Technica headphones I here no noise at all at the line out. Only when connected to amplifier. Could be some impedance problem?
PWM
peterbolmehag wrote:
PWM wrote:
peterbolmehag wrote:
Hi,

Finished a jasper build. Tested it with the line out and that is so noisy. Is that normal to have alot of noise an jitter in the background?

/peter


Try it without the CD4006 in it's socket. You did put it in a socket, I hope?

Mine is quite noisy with that chip (it is the chip generating the noise) in it. Noise is almost completely gone without it.
I have to look into this some time..


Tried that. Has no effect on the noise level. Though if I use my Audio Technica headphones I here no noise at all at the line out. Only when connected to amplifier. Could be some impedance problem?


That's weird. If anything the background noise should be louder. Try the line out without the LM386 maybe. (I'm really fresh out of good ideas...)
peterbolmehag
Arnoid wrote:
jasonl wrote:



I've not had any problems with random keyboard randomly triggering, and have had my prototypes running for hours.... thought the sensing circuit was fairly robust - as I've used several different power supplies, and plugged it into various bits of equipment.... Perhaps I'm just fortunate to be blessed with decent mains power...

Another trick to prevent spurious triggering if you're using the keyboard is to use an anti-static wrist-strap to reference yourself to the circuit. The GND pads on the right hand side of the PCB near the keyboard are for a PCB mounted banana socket... The top-right panel screw/hex spacer is also connected to GND, so you could experiment by touching this while using the keyboard with your other hand...


Finished my jasper yesterday.

Everything is working good and sounding nice hihi

But the keyboard is very sensitive sometimes double or randomly triggering when I touch a key... even if I touch the metal housing from the keyboard sensitivity pot it triggers the jasper...
I can fix it by touching the ground with my other hand then I can play the keyboard normally...

Any toughts how to fix this issue ?
I'm using a regulated Power supply 9V DC..



I have the same problem. If I use my fingertips on the keyboard it works without random triggering, but if I lay down my finger over 30-100% of the key, it starts to random trigger. Interstingly, it it not even over the keyboard, the lowest key is the worst, and the highest is almost not affected.

I get random triggering that sounds like someone is randomly playing different notes.

It does stop directly if i touch GND.
grm
good news, everybody!

i got my 4th run jasper up and running
(still missing the ring mod mod, though).

but unfortunately i can ONLY hear them sweet sounds (have an audible signal, like it is supposed to be), when the HOLD1 switch is engaged and that only when i crank up the SUSTAIN LEVEL or have it on REPEAT. HOLD2 and OFF give me no signal, or to be correct, just an extremly faint one, when i crank my amp up all the way. while doing that, i've tried out all the controly and they seem to effect the output according to plan. so i think there must be a failure in a section that amplifies the signal of the OSCs on their way out or something the like. unfortunately i have clue if or where that could be.

all the chips have 4.90 V on their supply pins (not the lm 386, of course), i have used a L78L05 power regulator with its legs bend accordingly. could that be the problem...

any hints of where to check for my own or technical faults are very welcome.
help
thanks.

ps.
thanks to jason for this great projects. thumbs up
peterbolmehag
Hi,

Here's some images of my custom case for Jasper. It is made of a 1.5mm aluminum sheet that I got cut and bent at a local firm. Cost about 10 Euro.

The wood is 10mm oak.

The case is about 35 mm deeper than the Jasper circuit board, to have enough space for connectors and the midi circuit board.

The case is about 38 mm high.

/peter






[/img]
AonFLuX
peterbolmehag wrote:
Hi,

Here's some images of my custom case for Jasper. It is made of a 1.5mm aluminum sheet that I got cut and bent at a local firm. Cost about 10 Euro.

The wood is 10mm oak.

The case is about 35 mm deeper than the Jasper circuit board, to have enough space for connectors and the midi circuit board.

The case is about 38 mm high.

/peter

Looks really nice!
Is that a"Sydsvenskan" i spot? So maybe the local firm is also local to me.. smile
I'm in Malmö and starting to plan my case as the midi-board is just finished
peterbolmehag
AonFLuX wrote:
peterbolmehag wrote:
Hi,

Here's some images of my custom case for Jasper. It is made of a 1.5mm aluminum sheet that I got cut and bent at a local firm. Cost about 10 Euro.

The wood is 10mm oak.

The case is about 35 mm deeper than the Jasper circuit board, to have enough space for connectors and the midi circuit board.

The case is about 38 mm high.

/peter

Looks really nice!
Is that a"Sydsvenskan" i spot? So maybe the local firm is also local to me.. smile
I'm in Malmö and starting to plan my case as the midi-board is just finished



Sure is, I´m in Bjärred. So the local firm is in Löddeköpinge :-) . I bet any "plåtslagare" will do.
AonFLuX
peterbolmehag wrote:


Sure is, I´m in Bjärred. So the local firm is in Löddeköpinge :-) . I bet any "plåtslagare" will do.


Ok, nice smile Yes, I'll try to locate the local, local "plåtslagare", should be someone around. Or if I try to get the laser-cutter (wood) a work going. Still haven´t decided.
Very Little Fun
Well this is embarrassing... I just received my Jasper kit in the mail today. After looking over the BOM, I realized that I in fact bit off more than I could chew.
very frustrating
Is there anyone or anyway to get this thing assembled? I would of course pay for the parts and labor and shipping.

Also... any examples of pre made enclosures or instructions on how to make a wooded/metal one?

Thanks... (hides)

Michael
bigsecret
Very Little Fun wrote:
Well this is embarrassing... I just received my Jasper kit in the mail today. After looking over the BOM, I realized that I in fact bit off more than I could chew.
very frustrating
Is there anyone or anyway to get this thing assembled? I would of course pay for the parts and labor and shipping.

Also... any examples of pre made enclosures or instructions on how to make a wooded/metal one?

Thanks... (hides)

Michael


Have you looked in the DIY buliders for hire thread?
sixbyseven
Well, I am somewhat embarrassed but would rather be a little red, than have a wasp that is dead.

Finished the build, used all the parts recommended, check power and ground continuity, plugged in the ICs, checked voltages ... all OK. set all of the pots to the places in the test doc, placed jumpers on the oscillator pins, the trigger T&S pins, placed a 47K resistor where the speaker should go.

No signal on line out, at all. There is a faint signal through the headphones, and you can hear the synth Osc, VCF and Envelopes all functioning. Keyboard sensitivity works, tuning works, nice clean square wave on the TLC555.

I even swapped out the volume pot temporarily. Reflowed the solder joints on the connectors, then started double and triple checking transistors, capacitors, etc. I am thinking the issue is somewhere around IC5 or IC6. If I pull the 386 audio amp I get nothing out of the headphone (which is expected).

Does anyone know what the voltages or signal will be on the volume control (VR1A)?

Basically, what approximate voltages should be on pins 14, 13, 12 and 16 of IC6?

I don't want to pull it and swap it out just yet, and in my last project I had a faulty IC socket.

I know it will be something stupid, but I would be willing to look dumb for help on this one. (Sometime just asking out loud provides the answers to ones self).

Thank you in advance.
RadekTymecki
should be 47 ohm right? not 47k
sixbyseven
I ended up installing a small speaker, still no luck. So far I thought it could be PR2, it was really scratchy. I replaced it with a higher quality Bournes and it is not scratchy but still not volume.

I am going through the service manual, the VCA actually seems to check out voltage wise. I am now at item 20, and I am not getting the results shown with a overshoot on the release when i press a key..... checking joints, components now. I have made an error somewhere.. I know it...
duff
sixbyseven wrote:
I ended up installing a small speaker, still no luck. So far I thought it could be PR2, it was really scratchy. I replaced it with a higher quality Bournes and it is not scratchy but still not volume.

I am going through the service manual, the VCA actually seems to check out voltage wise. I am now at item 20, and I am not getting the results shown with a overshoot on the release when i press a key..... checking joints, components now. I have made an error somewhere.. I know it...


The overshoot is undesirable and point 23 describes how to remove it. If you haven't got an overshoot then that is good.
sixbyseven
Thank's Duff, I worked my way through the service manual scoping each point and it is seems to be behaving appropriately, triggers are triggering, envelopes are enveloping, Oscillators are Oscillating, the keyboard triggers perfectly, decay works, attack works. I can tune to 440. I have a small (at full volume) sound coming out of the speaker, and If I use the headphones or use that output into my mixer, the 386 amps it up so you can hear things marginally (but very noisy, which would be expected). So, I am guessing it sounds ok (some of the waveforms could be improved, but that should not effect the issue).

IC5 and 6 have been replaced 5.043 volts are at the power pins, zero volts where ground should be. I have about 2.5V at IC6-12 and IC5-8 and across VR10A when set half-way. After the C14 I have a 540 mV voltage on both left and right sides of the line out.

I ended reflowing more solder joints (they were not that bad, but who knows), and then taking a nylon brush and some alcohol just to clean things up again. Which is my way of clutching for straws. I love the look of this PCB but I hate black solder masks for inspection. My old eyes have a hard time with them, but I am examining under high magnification (5x)

Tonight I think I am going to work from line out, backward checking each track for continuity and correct components, etc. The damn issue is there somewhere.
sixbyseven
Ok, after going through the entire service manual, I tested everything and everything hit spec, nice clean scope images, all the way to item 29. The voltages on Q1 & Q2 where wonky and so was pins 11, 12 8 and 12 on IC12

I was not getting anything over 1 volt on IC5 pin 12. It mentioned a possibility of an issue so I ended up changing IC3 out (LM13700), reseated IC5 and I now have a very nice signal coming out of the line out. Damn things are expensive and they usually don't fail.

I also think I still have an issue with the hold 1 & hold 2 options connectors, but at least I can address those.

All in all, a nice project and the service manual and schematic sure help. If anyone else has a similar issue in the future, I hope this info can help you narrow it down. Maybe now get to play, then add the JasperIn to it and get it to the big sequencer.
sixbyseven
Here is a video of the Wasp working great. I will also post another video of the JasperIn MIDI working. Jason this synth is awesome, it is a ton of fun to play with and sounds great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2V_At6xR1U&feature=youtu.be
grm
grm wrote:
good news, everybody!

i got my 4th run jasper up and running
(still missing the ring mod mod, though).

but unfortunately i can ONLY hear them sweet sounds (have an audible signal, like it is supposed to be), when the HOLD1 switch is engaged and that only when i crank up the SUSTAIN LEVEL or have it on REPEAT. HOLD2 and OFF give me no signal, or to be correct, just an extremly faint one, when i crank my amp up all the way. while doing that, i've tried out all the controly and they seem to effect the output according to plan. so i think there must be a failure in a section that amplifies the signal of the OSCs on their way out or something the like. unfortunately i have clue if or where that could be.

all the chips have 4.90 V on their supply pins (not the lm 386, of course), i have used a L78L05 power regulator with its legs bend accordingly. could that be the problem...

any hints of where to check for my own or technical faults are very welcome.
help
thanks.

ps.
thanks to jason for this great projects. thumbs up


more good news,
after checking everything i could (i failed to understand most of the SERVICE MANUAL with my noobish skills) again and again. i disconnected the external trigger input and used a jumper on the pinsocket i've soldered onto the PCB, with success. the switching minijack socket wasn't connecting the T to S when nothing was plugged. now everything works as it should, as far as i can tell. at least i am very happy. screaming goo yo

this just in case sombody faces similar "blind spots".
goodbyefuture
hey guys,

quick build question before I go soldering.

For the 3 switched potentiometers, the small nut and washer that came with them go above the panel correct?

For the 6 Rotary switches the washer and nut that comes with them goes below the panel to make the height correct right? So that means I need 6 more washers for above the panel to screw on to tighten them?

Lastly, all the other washers and nuts that came on the potentiometers go above the panel not under it right? (meaning I do not need extra nuts/washers for above the panel)

Thanks a lot- just wanted to check before I tackle this.
sixbyseven
goodbyefuture wrote:

For the 3 switched potentiometers, the small nut and washer that came with them go above the panel correct?

For the 6 Rotary switches the washer and nut that comes with them goes below the panel to make the height correct right? So that means I need 6 more washers for above the panel to screw on to tighten them?

Lastly, all the other washers and nuts that came on the potentiometers go above the panel not under it right? (meaning I do not need extra nuts/washers for above the panel)


Hi Goodbyfuture, if you used the parts from the BOM, this sounds like what I did. I am running off memory as I type this. My pots all came from small Bear, and I had to reform the leads. The switched pots came from Jason, and the switches came from Mouser. I first cut the switches (long blue rotators) to size, an fit them making sure each one was all the same fit to the board. The washers and nuts stay on them (below the panel). Then I fit the switched pots, ensuring each one bottomed out on the pub. Nuts go on top of panel. Lastly I fit each pot ensuring they were all the same height (I did two at a time), by fitting the panel before soldering.

Don't forget the two long rotator trimpots as well, mine pop through the panel just barely enough to hold them.

Once the entire thing is together, with standoffs screwed in the corners and middle holding the panel to the PCB, and the washers and nuts on the switched pots and other pots. It is pretty tight, you could arguably not add nuts to the switches on the top panel (since everything else is tightened down). I suppose though that leaving them as is, could cause minor movement over time and put stress on the solder joints, but the whole unit is pretty tight as is.
blitit
Im about to install the IC.

Noob question, how do i ground myself with a wrist band? Do i have to connect it to a lead soldered to the GND hole in the lower right part of the pcb?

I actually never grounded myself when building diy kits, ive been lucky i guess. meh

Thanks in advance.
jimfowler
Powered up, calibrated and sounding awesome. Thanks a million. This thing is great!
blitit
Im lost regarding IC cd4006. In the BOM it says " Obsolete chip, obtainable NOS". What does that mean?
bigsecret
blitit wrote:
Im lost regarding IC cd4006. In the BOM it says " Obsolete chip, obtainable NOS". What does that mean?


It means the chip is no longer manufactured but that you should still be able to find some New Old Stock rather than used chips pulled from old equipment.
blitit
bigsecret wrote:
blitit wrote:
Im lost regarding IC cd4006. In the BOM it says " Obsolete chip, obtainable NOS". What does that mean?


It means the chip is no longer manufactured but that you should still be able to find some New Old Stock rather than used chips pulled from old equipment.



Thanks!
I wasnt able to find one here in my city (Santiago isn't the best place to shop for these items). Is there any replacement I could look for?
duff
blitit wrote:
bigsecret wrote:
blitit wrote:
Im lost regarding IC cd4006. In the BOM it says " Obsolete chip, obtainable NOS". What does that mean?


It means the chip is no longer manufactured but that you should still be able to find some New Old Stock rather than used chips pulled from old equipment.



Thanks!
I wasnt able to find one here in my city (Santiago isn't the best place to shop for these items). Is there any replacement I could look for?


I don't think a direct replacement exists, but I think you should have received one with the PCBs from Jason.
blitit
duff wrote:
blitit wrote:
bigsecret wrote:
blitit wrote:
Im lost regarding IC cd4006. In the BOM it says " Obsolete chip, obtainable NOS". What does that mean?


It means the chip is no longer manufactured but that you should still be able to find some New Old Stock rather than used chips pulled from old equipment.



Thanks!
I wasnt able to find one here in my city (Santiago isn't the best place to shop for these items). Is there any replacement I could look for?


I don't think a direct replacement exists, but I think you should have received one with the PCBs from Jason.


You´re totally right, i should have receive one. I bet its somewhere there d'oh!
thanks
muncky
Any UK based Jasper builders got spare pots for the 5k Lin (VR12) and 1mRev log (VR3)? I'm short on my second build and don't have plans for another big parts order any time soon Dead Banana
LektroiD
muncky wrote:
Any UK based Jasper builders got spare pots for the 5k Lin (VR12) and 1mRev log (VR3)? I'm short on my second build and don't have plans for another big parts order any time soon Dead Banana


Try Bitsbox
muncky
Thanks Lektroid - all sorted thanks to Duff
mbroers
did anyone finish an oscillator sync mod that is willing to describe it? also +1 on the request for more details on the double ring mod mod that iL posted a picture of?

thanks!
okelk
Will there be a 5th run?
If so, I'm in!
PWM
mbroers wrote:
did anyone finish an oscillator sync mod that is willing to describe it? also +1 on the request for more details on the double ring mod mod that iL posted a picture of?

thanks!


I've tried various approaches for a sync modification but I didn't get it to work. It is possible on a 555 VCO but not in the configuration the Wasp uses it. Well, not possible by me that is..
mbroers
PWM wrote:
mbroers wrote:
did anyone finish an oscillator sync mod that is willing to describe it? also +1 on the request for more details on the double ring mod mod that iL posted a picture of?

thanks!


I've tried various approaches for a sync modification but I didn't get it to work. It is possible on a 555 VCO but not in the configuration the Wasp uses it. Well, not possible by me that is..


Cool - thanks, the jasper sounds great on its own Im just trying to decide if theres anything worthy of messing with before sealing it all up and calling it complete...
BambooGuerilla
Does anybody have a mouser cart for all the mouser parts?

Thanks in advanced
sizone
Finally, vacation started. Gonna start the buildin'. Unfortunately, the several months that the pcb and other parts have been sitting around waiting for vacation time I have forgotten to order the pots and knobs.
AonFLuX
My Jasper finally cased! Not much of drawing beforehand, just build and see smile
Paint job could be better, but i'm happy! Will try to show more details on the casebuild here:

Baseplate, and trying to build up sufficient heoght in order to fit the JasperIN and 6.5 mm TRS.

[/img]

Fitting M3 rivets in the positions of the holes in the bottom PCB (used a printed mockup using the measurements given in the PDF/Build-instructions. They where tight and close to the edge of the wood, so I needed to drill carefully (high speed and slow pressing). Then wooden glue and rivets.



Fitted sides and the back-structure to hold the back-panel with the input and outputs. The gap in the bottom structure was used as a canal for wires. The total depth of the case was based on the pcb-depth + about 100-120 mm for back panel.




The not so good paint-job.. but I still learn smile



Rivets also fitted for the back-panel. Take extra care when drilling in particle-board as it may crack easily. Solid wood would probably be better in all places wher rivets should be fitted.



And the whole thing done:



I only spared about 1 mm on each side of the bottom-pcb to the side-panels. And after the paint-job, it was a very tight fit (I think I got a bit lucky). But it fits nicely, no contact and no strain on the PCB and the rivets work perfectly. But as I did all my drilling NOT using a drill-press, the rivets are not all straight down. So I could not fit brass-spacers to the bottom rivets in all places, but here instead I just fixed the bottom with a flat-head M3 and then fitted the brass-spaces only on the top-panel. And when all knobs were mounted, the stability is very good anyways.
sizone
Typical build problem, no sound out unless the s1 hold header is jumpered. Scoped a little bit of the circuit, getting clock out of ic35, but not any clock out of ic5, also not getting any lfo out. Ordered some replacement 4069s, really at a loss as far as what else to check, though I am glad I bought that oscilloscope I never use.
sizone
I think I found the problem. The package of 100k resistors mouser sent me are actually 2k. That's what I get for not double checking the values. Unfortunately, that means I have to desolder and replace 30 resistors.

Don't know who to be madder at, the mouser picker who sabotaged my synth building or myself for missing something that should have been obvious.

Hope I didn't break anything else in the process of trouble shooting that.

e: VICTORY

Yes, it was just the resistors.
goodbyefuture
Question: page 9 says to solder into the right on D9 of the trigger mod, and page 33 says to solder it into the left for he trigger mod on D9. What is accurate to use the external trigger Mod?
afx
goodbyefuture wrote:
Question: page 9 says to solder into the right on D9 of the trigger mod, and page 33 says to solder it into the left for he trigger mod on D9. What is accurate to use the external trigger Mod?


Page9 wrote:
If you wish to use the trigger mod, solder D9 as the image above – using the left hand square pad
above the ‘Trig mod’ label.

If you do not wish to use the external trigger at all, simply solder the cathode lead (with the line) to
the square pad on the right, closest to the label D9. You can leave out R172 and the Ext Trig Mod
header.


Page33 wrote:
If you wish to use the trigger mod, you should have soldered D9 as the image above – using the
left hand square pad above the ‘Trig mod’ label. A switched jack is connected to the header – the
tip connection is marked as T, the switched is S and the ground/sleeve connection is G.

For testing, or if you do not wish to use the external trigger mod immediately, simply jumper the T
and S pins on the header as above.
If you do not wish to use the external trigger at all, simply solder the cathode lead (with the line) to
the square pad on the right, closest to the label D9. You can leave out R172 and the Ext Trig Mod
header.


It says the same in both pages
goodbyefuture
afx wrote:
goodbyefuture wrote:
Question: page 9 says to solder into the right on D9 of the trigger mod, and page 33 says to solder it into the left for he trigger mod on D9. What is accurate to use the external trigger Mod?


Page9 wrote:
If you wish to use the trigger mod, solder D9 as the image above – using the left hand square pad
above the ‘Trig mod’ label.

If you do not wish to use the external trigger at all, simply solder the cathode lead (with the line) to
the square pad on the right, closest to the label D9. You can leave out R172 and the Ext Trig Mod
header.


Page33 wrote:
If you wish to use the trigger mod, you should have soldered D9 as the image above – using the
left hand square pad above the ‘Trig mod’ label. A switched jack is connected to the header – the
tip connection is marked as T, the switched is S and the ground/sleeve connection is G.

For testing, or if you do not wish to use the external trigger mod immediately, simply jumper the T
and S pins on the header as above.
If you do not wish to use the external trigger at all, simply solder the cathode lead (with the line) to
the square pad on the right, closest to the label D9. You can leave out R172 and the Ext Trig Mod
header.


It says the same in both pages


haha, I read that like 5 times too. oye. d'oh!
goodbyefuture
First Power on, and everything is working so far! the build has passed initial testing without any issues, that I know of as of yet!
I do have a quick "finishing" question- Did anyone get their knobs from Mouser or Smallbear in the states? or elsewhere in the states, suggestions? If so, would you mind pointing me in the right direction of company or part# or something? I don't really want to order them from Europe, because I feel like I should be able to find some decent knobs somewhere in this country, ha.

All the pots and switches I used were the stardard 6.3mm diameter shaft and 8mm shaft length....

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
mbroers
i -might- be able to provide a full set of the knobs. let me verify and get back to you.
ZZ Ardoz
mbroers wrote:
i -might- be able to provide a full set of the knobs. let me verify and get back to you.
any chance of a second set?
goodbyefuture
mbroers wrote:
i -might- be able to provide a full set of the knobs. let me verify and get back to you.


That would be amazing. Yes please do get back to me. smile
goodbyefuture
crustibooga wrote:
First render of my Jasper case. A few bits still to work out, but should have it made next month.




This is beautiful! I love your case!
Europa313
The Rotary Switches, they fit in both directions. Does it matter or can they be placed either way?



afx
Europa313 wrote:
The Rotary Switches, they fit in both directions. Does it matter or can they be placed either way?





The silkscreen has a dot on the bottom part of the rotary. I installed mine like in the first picture you posted
mbroers
ZZ Ardoz wrote:
mbroers wrote:
i -might- be able to provide a full set of the knobs. let me verify and get back to you.
any chance of a second set?


nope, sorry. just the one.
wahee
complete now just two pots to fit. I made a bit of a mistake and didn't bend the leads of the PCB mounted ones and had to redo. Ignore the LFO led bodge oops



Just working on a case now..

Sammus
A word of warning: Omega and Alpha pots, both used in this build, use two different taper codes.

Alpha: A = Audio (Log), B = Linear. So B50k is linear 50k pot.

Omega: A = linear, B = Audio (log). So B50K is log 50k pot.

I just desoldered my first pot. Turns out it's actually doable without ruining the pcb or the pot smile
jarkesia
Just finished my Jasper build, quite smooth process.



As there was some space in the panel, I took some effort to patch together some sort of version of EDP Spider (red buttons + switches in the front in EMS KS -fashion). Was a bit more tricky than I expected, but it is running fine. Would want to do more comparisons with real Spider in order to implement even closer emulation though.

This one includes MIDI in/out functions together with MIDI clock in/out. Skipped link ports and installed real size MIDI ports instead. Here is a short video about the results:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlbmamkRItU
AonFLuX
Nice - would be cool to know more on the work to implement EDP spider smile
duff
jarkesia wrote:
Just finished my Jasper build, quite smooth process.

As there was some space in the panel, I took some effort to patch together some sort of version of EDP Spider (red buttons + switches in the front in EMS KS -fashion). Was a bit more tricky than I expected, but it is running fine. Would want to do more comparisons with real Spider in order to implement even closer emulation though.

This one includes MIDI in/out functions together with MIDI clock in/out. Skipped link ports and installed real size MIDI ports instead.


Nice. You've done well to fit all that under the standard panel.

Do you have a real spider to compare with? I have only seen the documentation and it is rather terse.

I know Jason had a standalone spider in the works that was pretty complete but I have not heard any news on this for a while.
mäk
It's done. applause













jarkesia
duff wrote:


Nice. You've done well to fit all that under the standard panel.

Do you have a real spider to compare with? I have only seen the documentation and it is rather terse.

I know Jason had a standalone spider in the works that was pretty complete but I have not heard any news on this for a while.


Documentation of the Spider is not much, but once you start to implement it, even the super short user manual gives you lots of details about the technical side. The schematic available from different sources isn't probably from finished version as there are documented differences between the real one. And obviously the CV out can not work like it describes because DAC is run straight from the link connectors, and link protocol has many values not used ever.

Anyways schematics don't reveal much, as real Spider is micro controller based. And because of keyboard tracking frequencies you need to play around with correct timings and such. When I added MIDI features, there is even more care to be done in order to keep everything really working - fast and tight. Was browsing this thread a while ago to see if someone is really working to do this and previous time people seemed to have attempt in doing this didn't seem to go anywhere.

For getting all the details right, would need to find one original Spider and study a bit. For instance, I'm only guessing how information is stored in the memory, so switching between real time mode and stepped mode most probably gives different results. Also maximum note lengths in real time mode and tempo values in stepped mode are lucky guesses. Basically many nice details it would be nice to get right. In normal use you would never now these, only when you intentionally push it.
wahee
finished the case
went a bit jupiter 8 with the aluminum hihi



mbroers
looks REAL nice.
AonFLuX
beautiful!!
applause
wahee
thanks guys, still awaiting the MIDI interface but holes drilled. The top panel is magnetic and comes off for messing inside the synth.

I may do a honeycomb stencil in yellow on the top rear cover but might be OTT


mbroers


i still have to sort out the rest of the enclosure but wanted to share my FPE panel with more original style fonts and slightly different selco knobs. this was my first time using the fpe printing option, i really dig it and it wasnt that expensive.
Altitude909
^
Wow.

I'll take that FPD file if you're offering
mbroers
sure no problem i'll post it up asap.

i havent decided yet but i may make another one with some minor changes, if i do i'll post this one up for grabs.
Sammus
Love the cases.

"Finished" my Jasper today - no case, but I could play it and tune it etc. It is a fun little beast, seems to work flawlessly off the bat.

Thanks Jason and anyone else who has contributed!
mbroers
Here is the FPD file for the above panel with original style fonts. I think its ok but do double check it yourself before ordering smile
LED-man
mbroers wrote:
Here is the FPD file for the above panel with original style fonts. I think its ok but do double check it yourself before ordering smile


Thank you, but the fpd is missing.
you find in your downloads folder jasper_01_wart.fpd
mbroers
fixed i think
LED-man
mbroers wrote:
fixed i think


thumbs up thank you very much
captnapalm
mbroers wrote:


i still have to sort out the rest of the enclosure but wanted to share my FPE panel with more original style fonts and slightly different selco knobs. this was my first time using the fpe printing option, i really dig it and it wasnt that expensive.


Wow great work mbroers SlayerBadger! screaming goo yo This is fun! Rockin' Banana!
Altitude909
Yeah, finally can dump that hideous hold switch for a slide switch. Easy to adjust to Sonny's case..
mbroers
ive decided im definitely doing another version after looking over wasp deluxes, i like the way the deluxes do the knob indicators and think i want to add the speaker cut out and make a few other revisions.

if anyone wants this one let me know, id be happy to give it up for half my costs + shipping.

keep in mind my ext in and output cuts were for PJ3410s not the cliff jacks in the bom. also worth noting this design is for REV 1 only, i think some things were moved slightly on rev2 boards.
Europa313
Anyone got two spare TEXAS INSTRUMENTS CD4046BE ? Would be uber appreciated.
Edit: found some
Europa313
uf, only got the first note in the keybord playing. 75% of the right side outputs the same note.

I tried replacing the 4016 and th LM13700 but nope. Anyone got a hint?
EvangelosYYC
Just got my pcbs in the mail, ive mostly skimmed through this thread but I just wanted to double confirm that the BOM on the jasper website is indeed the most accurate and uptodate? I'm assuming mine is a 4th run!
mick
Some awesome cases in this thread. Nice one guys!
bigsecret
Europa313 wrote:
uf, only got the first note in the keybord playing. 75% of the right side outputs the same note.

I tried replacing the 4016 and th LM13700 but nope. Anyone got a hint?


I had a similar issue where groups of keys played the same note. By tracing the keyboard decoder circuit and just taking voltage readings I was able to figure out that two of the inputs to IC27 (4019) had the same signal under all circumstances and must therefore be shorted out. Sure enough I found a solder short under the chip holder earlier in the circuit - in my case caused by having initially put a 14 pin holder in a 16 pin slot and then having to remove and replace it.

In the schematic pdf take a look at page 7/10 Note Decoder to work out which pins to measure voltage on.
balbibou
Is it still possible to get the enhanced mod pcb somewhere ?
mangros
I've shared a board on OSH Park to handle the XOR/ringmod stuff. It's super basic and could easily be done on stripboard, but might make it easier/clearer for anyone interested.
It's tested. You have to order in threes, but it's only about $4 inc delivery for three. My orders usually arrive in the UK after 15-20 days.

https://oshpark.com/projects/sCGkvI0e

It has two outputs: Osc1 x Osc2, and Osc2 x LFO. These outputs can be sent to spare pins on the Osc2 rotary switch.

I've grounded the spare gates so if you wanted to add more stuff or change the inputs... you're probably better off doing your own on stripboard.
Houtson
Just getting to end of first build of rev4 board and could do with a bit of help trouble shooting.

Osc1 tracks entire range of keyboard but Osc2 only tracks the 'top' half of the keyboard - the lower half triggers Osc1 but not Osc2.

Any clues on where to start looking much appreciated, cheers Paul
Sparky
mangros wrote:
I've shared a board on OSH Park to handle the XOR/ringmod stuff. It's super basic and could easily be done on stripboard, but might make it easier/clearer for anyone interested.
It's tested. You have to order in threes, but it's only about $4 inc delivery for three. My orders usually arrive in the UK after 15-20 days.

https://oshpark.com/projects/sCGkvI0e

It has two outputs: Osc1 x Osc2, and Osc2 x LFO. These outputs can be sent to spare pins on the Osc2 rotary switch.

I've grounded the spare gates so if you wanted to add more stuff or change the inputs... you're probably better off doing your own on stripboard.


Nice! Does this work with all rev's of Jasper PCBs? (or what have you tried it with?)
mangros
Good point - I've added it to the project description. Mine's a v1, so the pins to solder to could be slightly different on other versions, but yeah, it should work on all of them.

Main thing is to take +5V and 0V from somewhere, and take the square waves from each main oscillator and the LFO.
mangros
Okay some people were asking for XOR demos, here's a real quick tablet recording showing the Osc 1 x Osc 2 output:


Next up will be a small adaptor board for this nice feature (noise clock from Osc 2) - no idea where to put the switch for this or what the chances of wrecking the 4006 will be...

mbroers
looks and sounds awesome, been mulling over how i can make this synth a bit more like a pro one or ms20 because im greedy. this looks like the trick, are you going to do a run of adapter board pcbs for these mods?

-edit sorry i saw on the previous page you offered up the osh project, thanks!!
apophis93
Wanted to share my finished build. Choose to use a recycled harddig case, perfect color with plenty of room for cables and adaptor below. Need to print or screen the old wasp manual cover for the case outside.

Cheers!

-Daniel
nologin
Someone can explain to me what the link power slide switch is for? It is not mentioned in the assembly manual. I may be thinking of switching from batteries to wallvart power. Yet the power socket for the wallvart is like a jack with cut ... Why a switch? Personally i have not soldered this switch, but i do not know what it serves ... hmmm.....
duff
It determines whether power is sent over the link socket or not.
nologin
Ok thanks, i did not solder the sockets of LINK because they interfered for the fitting of my DIY case. The LINK switch is useless, for the use of the CV / gate and midi kit?
Altitude909
nologin wrote:
Ok thanks, i did not solder the sockets of LINK because they interfered for the fitting of my DIY case. The LINK switch is useless, for the use of the CV / gate and midi kit?


the CV/Gate board is powered from the jasper link header ONLY (that has 5V labeled) so it's not really needed since the JasperIN draws power from the Jasper's 5V rail

The link switch allows you to toggle the power when you want the device to be powered from another link based device. There is a power line on one of the pins of the Link interface
nologin
Ok thanks, i understand. applause
nihilist
HI all.
I just finished building my jasper.
Not getting any response from the keyboard, what might be the reason for this?

Only getting sound when EGs are in Repeat mode.

Thanks.
biosynth
[s]https://soundcloud.com/biosynth/the-first-quark[/s]
jasper at 1:30 This is fun!
diophantine
Just finished mine tonight! Works great, sounds great (at least through headphones). I like the enhanced waveform - glad that was added to this - seems to have the most impact when only one VCO is set to that. jasonl - thanks for making this project happen, and adding some thoughtful mods!

Haven't installed the knobs yet. Waiting to see what becomes of the enclosure project for this, to decide if I want to install the speaker & battery holders (and the CV/MIDI expander PCB.)

nihilist wrote:
HI all.
I just finished building my jasper.
Not getting any response from the keyboard, what might be the reason for this?

Only getting sound when EGs are in Repeat mode.

Thanks.


Will the synth self-trigger if you turn the Keyboard Sense knob & trimpot all the way up?

Did you connect the seven jumper wires (or ribbon cable) connecting the LINK sections? I believe those are related to keyboard functionality.
Sammus
diophantine wrote:
...aiting to see what becomes of the enclosure project for this...


There's an enclosure project? I've been struggling with how to enclose, including speaker and jasper in and sequencer.
diophantine
Sammus wrote:
diophantine wrote:
...aiting to see what becomes of the enclosure project for this...


There's an enclosure project? I've been struggling with how to enclose, including speaker and jasper in and sequencer.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166307&postdays=0&po storder=asc&start=0
Sammus
diophantine wrote:
Sammus wrote:
diophantine wrote:
...aiting to see what becomes of the enclosure project for this...


There's an enclosure project? I've been struggling with how to enclose, including speaker and jasper in and sequencer.

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166307&postdays=0&po storder=asc&start=0


Thanks! smile
mbroers
mangros wrote:
Okay some people were asking for XOR demos, here's a real quick tablet recording showing the Osc 1 x Osc 2 output:


Next up will be a small adaptor board for this nice feature (noise clock from Osc 2) - no idea where to put the switch for this or what the chances of wrecking the 4006 will be...



i did the osh park order and completed the mod without issue, sounds great - thanks for sharing the work! any updates on that noise clock mod? that sounded good too...
mangros
mbroers wrote:
i did the osh park order and completed the mod without issue, sounds great - thanks for sharing the work! any updates on that noise clock mod? that sounded good too...


Great, glad it's working! smile

On the noise clock - got my test board in recently. All works but very tall. I have 18mm spacers for the panel and when this is installed there is literally no gap above, even with slim turned pin double headers.

With the stock 17mm spacers it's a bit of a gamble dependent on socket and header types to reduce the height. The 4006 could be soldered to the adaptor directly (not really a good idea given their scarcity) or the adaptor could be soldered closer to the main PCB without an IC socket. I wanted this to be easily removable so I might have to look at a few options.

It's a very simple mod (changing the connection to pin 3 of the 4006), just awkward to physically implement. Here's what it looks like anyway...





I've been messing about with it a bit and it's revealing a few more tricks than just the 80s computer explosions. Will try and get another demo up soon.
NS4W
The line output on mine is barely audible and if i crank it up in my mixer it just get as terribly noisy as the phones out. Any tips?
mbroers
mangros wrote:
mbroers wrote:
i did the osh park order and completed the mod without issue, sounds great - thanks for sharing the work! any updates on that noise clock mod? that sounded good too...


Great, glad it's working! smile

On the noise clock - got my test board in recently. All works but very tall. I have 18mm spacers for the panel and when this is installed there is literally no gap above, even with slim turned pin double headers.

With the stock 17mm spacers it's a bit of a gamble dependent on socket and header types to reduce the height. The 4006 could be soldered to the adaptor directly (not really a good idea given their scarcity) or the adaptor could be soldered closer to the main PCB without an IC socket. I wanted this to be easily removable so I might have to look at a few options.

It's a very simple mod (changing the connection to pin 3 of the 4006), just awkward to physically implement. Here's what it looks like anyway...





I've been messing about with it a bit and it's revealing a few more tricks than just the 80s computer explosions. Will try and get another demo up soon.


looks good, i'd order that version of the pcb if it was made available hihi
Jop
Building mine now and just realized I don not have the 22 pf cpas on hand very frustrating (C43 C63).

Can I use 18 pf instead?

thanks!
AonFLuX
Jop wrote:
Building mine now and just realized I don not have the 22 pf cpas on hand very frustrating (C43 C63).

Can I use 18 pf instead?

thanks!


If you measure some of your 18 pF, maybe you'll find some that are within the 22 pF tolerance?
Jop
Thanks, but I'm afraid my DMM will not have the required precision to measure these small differences. Will give it a try, and otherwise just install the 18pf's.
wahee
got a cool swing out stand for my Jasper synth. Th stand is mad by Jasper, no relation i'm guessing

fluffybeard
Anyone have a cure for high-pitched background noises that seem to follow the oscillator pitch? I get them in both phones and line out, and they are present even when turning the volume all the way down. Could it be the decoupling caps?

I've tried with both batteries as well as a dc adapter, and while it is less noisy with batteries I still get a lot of noise.
fluffybeard
nihilist wrote:
HI all.
I just finished building my jasper.
Not getting any response from the keyboard, what might be the reason for this?

Only getting sound when EGs are in Repeat mode.

Thanks.


Did you jumper T&S in the ext gate mod section? Had the same thing.
fluffybeard
Ok, so my noise issue seems to be oscillator 1, 2 and the noise source leaking regardless of filter, vca setting. I've reflowed the soldering, and checked capacitor values, but no luck yet. very frustrating
duff
After some enthusiastic playing I seem to have managed to get a stuck key/note.

The note remains playing as long as the sustain is up. If sustain is counter clockwise the note dies, but if sustain is rotated clockwise again it seems to fade back in (although the fade time is not affected by attack).

The image below shows what I have tried to track down the issue.
* The chips marked with a purple dot can be removed and the stuck note remains stuck on
* The chips marked with a red dot stop the note when removed
--- I have tried replacing each in turn and this does not solve the problem
--- When one of these chips are removed the trigger is no longer present on the trig pin of the link connector so I am pretty sure the issue isn't coming from there
* The pins circled in purple can be lifted and the stuck note remains stuck on
* The pins & resistor circled in red stop the note when lifted.
* In all cases keyboard sensitivity is set fully counter clockwise to a point that would normally not result in a note even when the keyboard was pressed.

It looks like the problem might be an issue with the Scan Reset behaviour but given I have replaced everything and reflowed this whole area I cannot work out what to try next.

Any assistance much appreciated!

duff
Further testing shows that although removing IC44 stops the stuck note, if I send a pulse into VCA_ENV_TRIG the stuck note returns suggesting that the issue is post the above circuit. Time to look at the envelope....

EDIT: Although I started here because I can't repitch the note either.... hmmm.....
tekno808
jaidee wrote:
Jasper build completed with everything up and running as it should - what a fantastic project!

The one thing I can't get to work is the MiniMIDI Wasp interface kit I bought from Elby Designs. This is the latest version which has errors on the PCB requiring some extra caps (which aren't referenced on the BOM) to be added next to the crystal with leads formed into additional links. I've done all of this, but upon connecting to the extra Link holes on the Jasper board and sending some simple MIDI signals from an ancient Bass Station keyboard, nothing happens - no sound whatsoever from the Jasper.


Anyone had any similar problems or got any ideas about how to troubleshoot the MiniMIDI board?

My elementary troubleshooting skills (prodding haphazardly with a MultiMeter) fall completely short where digital circuits are concerned. All I can say reasonably confidently is that I have the appropriate 5v power into the board and have connected the MIDI In socket precisely as shown in the Elby build guide. I'm also reasonably confident that I've got the correct wiring from the MiniMIDI to the Jasper.

Any help appreciated!


Hi, did you manage to make your elby midi kit to work ?, have same problem here, everything looks fine ,everything is connected, but it won’t work,
5 volt and ground is ok on the ATmega chip also RX and TX is ok on pin 2 and 3 , also the oscillator seems to work but
nothing happens on the output D2,3,4,5,6,7,13 when playing with midi ….

It's just like there is no software on the chip ...

Here a few pics of my build , btw sounds great :-D


eveready9v
So I'm done with the build and tested all of the sockets but I'm getting nothing on the 386 sockets, what pins should I be checking on that? Put it all together and get audio out of the line out and headphone out but nothing from the speaker I attached so I'm wondering if I have an issue with the 386. Anyone got any advice as what to examine?
thanks
Barry
duff
eveready9v wrote:
So I'm done with the build and tested all of the sockets but I'm getting nothing on the 386 sockets, what pins should I be checking on that? Put it all together and get audio out of the line out and headphone out but nothing from the speaker I attached so I'm wondering if I have an issue with the 386. Anyone got any advice as what to examine?
thanks
Barry



The speaker and headphones are both driven by the 386 so if the phones out is working (you get a louder and even noisier version of the line out!) then the only difference between the two is the wires to and from the speaker.
eveready9v
Two questions, so in messing around with the line out and headphone out and speaker which is still not working, if I plug a set of headphones into the line out, I get both speakers. If I plug a set of headphones into the headphone out, after following the fix for the 2.1 headphone fix, it is much louder but its coming from only one channel, I'm wondering if this is why I'm not getting any speaker output? Any suggestions? Also wondering about the hold switch wiring. I have a DPDT switch that I want to use for both S1 and S2 hold functions, which wire go to the center of the switch from the headers? the left header or the right header or does it matter?
Thanks
Barry
duff
duff wrote:
Further testing shows that although removing IC44 stops the stuck note, if I send a pulse into VCA_ENV_TRIG the stuck note returns suggesting that the issue is post the above circuit. Time to look at the envelope....

EDIT: Although I started here because I can't repitch the note either.... hmmm.....


Having switched all the ICs from my working Jasper to the one with a stuck note (more detail a few posts above) I still have a stuck note, so it isn't an IC issue. I also replaced the transistors in the amp envelope on the hope that might fix it, but no joy.

I'll try comparing readings between the good one and the one with the stuck note, but if anyone has any ideas of where might be a good place to look it would be most welcomed. It had been running fine for about 18 months before this.
duff
eveready9v wrote:
Two questions, so in messing around with the line out and headphone out and speaker which is still not working, if I plug a set of headphones into the line out, I get both speakers. If I plug a set of headphones into the headphone out, after following the fix for the 2.1 headphone fix, it is much louder but its coming from only one channel, I'm wondering if this is why I'm not getting any speaker output? Any suggestions? Also wondering about the hold switch wiring. I have a DPDT switch that I want to use for both S1 and S2 hold functions, which wire go to the center of the switch from the headers? the left header or the right header or does it matter?
Thanks
Barry


The fix is certainly in an area that could impact it the speaker. I'm not quite sure what you could have done to stop the speaker working though. Probably worth double checking your work. I have found that the switch on cliff jacks doesn't always close so make sure you are getting signal on the switched contacts.
4teenth
So I've literally only got up to getting the 10, 1k, and 10k resistors in, and there's an empty space for a 10k resistor, which I've run out of, and I have a spare 1k resistor, which I can't see a space for...

Is there a list somewhere of which resistors should be which value? Admittedly I didn't count the resistors in the bag, so it's entirely possible that I was one short, but I'd rather check now while I just have a few resistors in place, rather than carry on and make it more difficult to check what I've got in already..

An eagle layout or similar would be ideal...
duff
On a V1 the designators are visible even when populated and these are listed on the BOM.
4teenth
Got one of the last run, v4 :(
4teenth
Oh wait, yeah the designators (R27 etc) are visible for me too - where's the bom with the values listed?

ah got it...
sizone
getting ready to seal the jasper up in its case. went back and double checked all the calibration steps. not real sure I'm getting the vco separation adjustment.

is this the procedure?

set the bend knob in the middle, adjust osc 2 tuning until both the oscillators are in tune. tweak the separation trimmer until you have ~3hz beating. turn the bend knob all the way up, readjust the trimmer, turn the bend knob all he way down, readjust the trimmer.

I can get the middle position and either the upper or lower position to beat, but getting the third requires changing the osc 2 tuning.

what am I missing?

also, where's a good test point for the lfo offset?
4teenth
duff wrote:
On a V1 the designators are visible even when populated and these are listed on the BOM.


Mystery solved, I'd populated all the 10k resistors just by searching for '10k' on the board, and accidentally put one in an 18k slot. Much easier with the BOM pdf to search by number and confirm, and I got all the resistors put in last night.
4teenth
Just to check I've not just misplaced them somewhere, can someone confirm that the 'regular' (ie not switched or positional) pots aren't included in the kit, and also aren't in the mouser BOM?

If that's the case, can anyone recommend a place for me to order them from in the UK?
4teenth
Okay so musicding are pretty good postagewise, but don't have the stereo/dual pot for the glide

Is this one okay?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/263143130655?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupi d=41767405657&rlsatarget=pla-327666169589&abcId=1129006&adtype=pla&mer chantid=115220946&poi=&googleloc=1006598&device=c&campaignid=861364981 &crdt=0


Thanks smile
Sammus
They are optionally part of the kit, you should be able to check your PM's or whatever to know what you bought.

All regular pots are available reasonably priced from smallbear.
tekno808
For those who has problems with the Elby minimidi wasp kit,
i burnt the Latest Firmware - V2.2 with a avr programmer and now it's working ;-)
muncky
delayed wrote:
reggiechacha wrote:
reggiechacha wrote:
I've completed my build. The keyboard is not triggering the synth at all.
I've been able to test the synth functions by placing a jumper on the hold connector, and using the sustain repeat the synth is triggered. All synthesis functions work perfectly.
I've had a look at the service manual notes and schematic on the synth DIY site to see how I can trouble shoot the keyboard functionality. And I have carried out a few tests. IC39,43, and 47 seem to be ok showing a pulse on the correct pins, except for pins 11, 12, 14 and 15 on IC 43.
I also tested IC 5 and can't see evidence of a scanning clock on pin 8 as per the service manual. Also there is no trigger signal on pad T on the link connector.
If anyone can point me the best place to do more testing and give me any pointers I'd be very grateful.


Resolved this. Replaced a bad ic48 AND... I didn't realise the 2 different solder points for d9 aren't connected. Doh! No wonder the keyboard didn't trigger the vca.


Thank you for posting this. I had a bad ic48 causing the same issue.


hi- seeking some light on my build here... I've built one Jasper already, and all was dandy straight of the blocks, but the second is proving to be more problematic. it seems to work with the one of the Holds retriggering, but with th switch in neutral, or on the other Hold nothing... well, incredibly faint through either an internal or external speaker. feel it must be related to the envelope or VCA, but no dice so far. I'm getting reading of 4.99v on the ICs check, which I'm not sure if that might be causing the problem?

any ideas for debugging gratefully received, as I'm really keen to get this JasperBugger completed lol
duff
duff wrote:
duff wrote:
Further testing shows that although removing IC44 stops the stuck note, if I send a pulse into VCA_ENV_TRIG the stuck note returns suggesting that the issue is post the above circuit. Time to look at the envelope....

EDIT: Although I started here because I can't repitch the note either.... hmmm.....


Having switched all the ICs from my working Jasper to the one with a stuck note (more detail a few posts above) I still have a stuck note, so it isn't an IC issue. I also replaced the transistors in the amp envelope on the hope that might fix it, but no joy.

I'll try comparing readings between the good one and the one with the stuck note, but if anyone has any ideas of where might be a good place to look it would be most welcomed. It had been running fine for about 18 months before this.


To close this out. After a lot of poking around and scratching my head it looks like my exuberant playing caused the pins on one of the IC sockets to puncture the ribbon cable running under the board. This resulted in shorts which were then interpreted as a high C being held down. IC socket legs are now trimmed as flat with board as possible and things are working again.
mbroers
Finally enclosing this beast, and feeling good about the look! Just anxiously awaiting that sweet 101 style sequencer project completion..
fredp
Hi mbroers, very beautiful enclosure!! congratulations!!
Altitude909
heh, beat me too it..

Tried the fold the metal technique for mine, worked out well.

[/img]
Sammus
That's awesome, where did you get them? I asked about cut out measurements for the sequencer to add to mine from crustibooger just recently and was told the measurements weren't being released for some reasons.

Edit: just realised who the poster was w00t
4teenth
Just logged in to post that I had pretty much finished my Jasper and then I saw the two pics above of the deluxe with sequencer.... Any more info on that?

Anyway, here's a video of my Jasper with a patch I accidentally made that sounds enough like a cat that it's confusing my actual cat...

https://www.facebook.com/mrmargaretscratcher/videos/10159351231475230/  ?hc_ref=ARSFoJ69HMiCUzMV9danFSewTIbDAVDrBVy7aage-NY3gLGOz7TufSCtyiaj5 9clMxg
afx
4teenth wrote:
Just logged in to post that I had pretty much finished my Jasper and then I saw the two pics above of the deluxe with sequencer.... Any more info on that?


Funny cat.

The sequencer is an addon for the JasperIn interface. It is still under development

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=171543

https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=185353
Very Little Fun
very frustrating Whoah did I get in over my head. I bought the kit from Jasper and got really overwhelmed when I realized how in depth it was going to be. I have school and band stuff and have zero time. Is there anyone able to assemble this thing and an enclosure for me? Obviously I would pay for the parts and the work etc.
PM if possible. I am in the USA.
Thanks. MY ASS IS BLEEDING
sines
mbroers wrote:
Finally enclosing this beast, and feeling good about the look! Just anxiously awaiting that sweet 101 style sequencer project completion..




hey mbroers — where does one purchase this metal front panel with the correct Microgramma typeface? dug through the thread, perhaps too quickly to spot it!

Also searching for a US source of the Omeg switching pots
Omeg 47K Log DPST ECO16
Omeg 47K Lin DPST ECO16
Omeg 1m Log DPST ECO16

Ideally Mouser?
Bodo1967
Mine is mostly working now. However, I get only one octave (twice the same, that is wink) when playing the keyboard:

When I play each 'key' from top C downwards, everything is OK up to C#. But then it jumps up to the top C again, rather than jumping a half note down to the middle C. The same happens again for the bottom C.

I checked all logic input levels on ICs 25 and 26. These are perfectly OK as per the WASP service manual, and so are most of the logic input levels on IC 30. Except for the middle and bottom C on pins 12 and 15 (I have logic zeroes instead of 1 there) Dead Banana .

I'll have a closer look into this tomorrow...
mbroers
sines wrote:

hey mbroers — where does one purchase this metal front panel with the correct Microgramma typeface? dug through the thread, perhaps too quickly to spot it!
Ideally Mouser?


I'll try uploading the front panel file and pdf with art.. There are many caveats to blindly ordering but I'm happy to supply what I used for others to modify to their specifications.
sines
mbroers wrote:
sines wrote:

hey mbroers — where does one purchase this metal front panel with the correct Microgramma typeface? dug through the thread, perhaps too quickly to spot it!
Ideally Mouser?


I'll try uploading the front panel file and pdf with art.. There are many caveats to blindly ordering but I'm happy to supply what I used for others to modify to their specifications.


Thank you. I want to make mine as close to the original design as possible.


Did you have FPD engrave yours, or how did you handle the yellow ink on black metal [aluminum?]
mbroers
FPE does printing now.
mbroers
Here is my latest iteration, with some important caveats:

so...
DO NOT BLINDLY ORDER THIS FROM FPE! TRIPLE DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING.

Some differences you might want to consider I can think of..
My panel is larger vertically than the original to accommodate the speaker and moving the ins/outs/power to the top instead of the sides.
I have a rev1 pcb set and the middle mounting screw holes of my design are off a little.
The jasper in mod mounting holes do not match the jasper in mod pcb :(.
The jasper cv/midi mod doesnt accommodate the BOM usb port.
I used yellow flat top leds that might not be the same size as standard leds.
I used a different audio 1/8" jacks.
I had a set of selco knobs that might have a slightly different size than the group buy knobs.
I used a very specific speaker from mouser that is not from the BOM.
I used a large switch for hold mode instead of the small one.
I added labels for the VCO2 and Noise Clock mods (also another large switch cut out) mentioned earlier in this thread from Mangros.
Different runs of the pcbs seem to have slightly different hues of yellow.

I think those are the main differences with mine. Might be others though so proceed with caution.
fuzzbass
Very Little Fun wrote:
very frustrating Whoah did I get in over my head. I bought the kit from Jasper and got really overwhelmed when I realized how in depth it was going to be. I have school and band stuff and have zero time. Is there anyone able to assemble this thing and an enclosure for me? Obviously I would pay for the parts and the work etc.
PM if possible. I am in the USA.
Thanks. MY ASS IS BLEEDING


Try sduck. I think he lives near you.
ejr27233
Finally got my ver1 boxed up and have a weird problem.
On internal speaker the keyboard works perfectly. As soon as I plug it into the mixer I can get random firing of the envelopes or no sound depending on the setting of the sensitivity control.
Has anyone any suggestions??
Bodo1967
Bodo1967 wrote:
I'll have a closer look into this tomorrow...


Edit, and for those who read this post before I edited it: I deleted my cry for help, since it's become obsolete grin thumbs up .

In other words: Yayyyyyy, I found it It's peanut butter jelly time! ... after having replacied half a dozen ICs to no avail: I simply had a solder bridge between ports E and F of the ribbon cable d'oh! .

It's now playing two cotaves nicely, just as it should Guinness ftw! Rockin' Banana! .
Very Little Fun
Ok cool! Thank you. I found him and sent PM/Email.
Purveyor2
I need some help. Ready to put in the ICs... voltage checking all the holders and they are great except the top row IC1-6 and IC23. I don't see any solder bridges or unsoldered pegs. Any ideas?
sizone
check the data sheets/build instructions. 2 of the chips have power/ground on the middle pins, not the usual pins.
Purveyor2
Thanks 4 diff ICs have different pinouts. All seem to be OK except I wonder about 386. Getting voltage out of it, but not the clear +5 like the others.
sizone
check the traces. does the 386 pull from the regulator or straight from the input?
duff
The 386 isn't on the regulator
andreas606
hello guys, i also need some help. is it possible to use the line out and head phone/amp out at the same time, without the switchable jack? i would connect the amp in directly to c14. do you expect any problems?
Europa313
bigsecret wrote:
Europa313 wrote:
uf, only got the first note in the keybord playing. 75% of the right side outputs the same note.

I tried replacing the 4016 and th LM13700 but nope. Anyone got a hint?


I had a similar issue where groups of keys played the same note. By tracing the keyboard decoder circuit and just taking voltage readings I was able to figure out that two of the inputs to IC27 (4019) had the same signal under all circumstances and must therefore be shorted out. Sure enough I found a solder short under the chip holder earlier in the circuit - in my case caused by having initially put a 14 pin holder in a 16 pin slot and then having to remove and replace it.

In the schematic pdf take a look at page 7/10 Note Decoder to work out which pins to measure voltage on.


Thanks mate for your answer. In the end I found out I had inverted BC557B @TR1
Europa313
jaapl wrote:
Hi,

I just finished building my 2nd run Jasper. It sounds fantastic! Deep and dirty ..

Everything seems to be working as it should ... apart from one thing: the envelope generators are always on "repeat". Switching the Sustain pot to "sustain" doesn't help. Changing the settings of "attack" and "decay" does not influence the repeat timing, it re-triggers at about 4 Hz.

When I close S8, switching the Sustain pot between "repeat" and "sustain" does make the envelope generators repeat / sets the sustain level but then pressing "keys" on the keyboard doesn't trigger the envelope generators.

I guess I'm missing something obvious here ...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


jaapl have you found what retrigg your envelopes?
namke
Having seen a completed Jasper at Leeds Modular Meet in August, I contacted Jason and recently received the partial kit (Run 5??). Placed orders with RS, Farnell, Rapid and Musikding on Sunday, and now am waiting for the exciting packages through the mail (I also have the JasperMIDI board that Jason has produced).

Anyway, just to say 'hi' really. Looking forward to building it, although it may take some time out of my experiments with ATTINY85s smile
Purveyor2
Build is done, going through testing/calibration. No pulsating env repeat, no noise at all. LED is on, all IC placed correctly (pretty sure) getting 5v from all ICs except IC3. Only getting about 3v on that one compared to 5v on the other 13700. Swapped chip for new 13700, Same result.

Ext trig not used, diode placed to far right pad next to d9. No mta header on ext trig.

A50 pots connected to osc volume via mta and turned up. Do I need jumpers instead?

Checked for bad soldering, bridges, etc. replaced a couple resistors just because.

Any thoughts... what should I check first?

Thanks
Altitude909
Purveyor2 wrote:
Build is done, going through testing/calibration. No pulsating env repeat, no noise at all. LED is on, all IC placed correctly (pretty sure) getting 5v from all ICs except IC3. Only getting about 3v on that one compared to 5v on the other 13700. Swapped chip for new 13700, Same result.

Ext trig not used, diode placed to far right pad next to d9. No mta header on ext trig.

A50 pots connected to osc volume via mta and turned up. Do I need jumpers instead?

Checked for bad soldering, bridges, etc. replaced a couple resistors just because.

Any thoughts... what should I check first?

Thanks


Did you jumper the ext trig header
Purveyor2
I didn't jumper trigger header, got jumpers coming in mail. As an alternative I followed instructions in build to not use ext trigger at all. Proper diode placement, no trigger header, no resistor.
Altitude909
You can just use a wire temporarily, it has to be either jumpered or connected to an external trigger, it wont work at all if you leave it open.
Purveyor2
Good to know, so just solder wire connecting the two leftward pads of trigger input?
Altitude909
Purveyor2 wrote:
Good to know, so just solder wire connecting the two leftward pads of trigger input?


Yes, they are marked IIRC
Purveyor2
Still nothing, finally noticed I had IC 20 placed incorrectly - pinned one row to the right. After placing correctly still nothing. Dead IC probably.
namke
Well, after three evenings and an afternoon I finally applied power to my Jasper build last night... much to my surprise it worked first time!

Big thumbs up to Jason for a decent build (I was wary of the 40-series ICs since my very first electronics project back in the 70s used them and was an abject failure!). The PCB was a joy to solder (some guitar pedal kits I've done have been horrible with solder-resist getting in the way).

Now I need to sort out a case and building the JasperMIDI board which I got from Jason at the same time as the Jasper kit.

I'd also like to see if the oscillator bleedthrough can be reduced a bit, not sure if it's a real problem since I was playing on headphones and the output is LOUD.
Purveyor2
Troubleshooting help please. Built wasp, all ICs with good power, no identifiable build issues. Powers up, but nothing happening aside from led.

Jumper osc and trigger in headers - done

What to check next?

Thanks in advance.
namke
sad

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? if not you may be able to do it by ear with an audio tracer - something like this: http://musicfromouterspace.com/analogsynth_new/HOT_TIPS/ampsignaltrace r.html

I would get a copy of the schematic and then trace the audio path from the master oscillators, following the signal flow. i.e. first check that you've got signal coming out of the two 555 chips (pin 3 or 4 IIRC).
Purveyor2
Thank you sir. Now I have reason to buy a scope.
ninjadru
Troubleshooting help...
I get out of the headphone jack and a low volume and a lot of noise. Main volume has no effect on the volume of these sounds. It almost sounds like bleed over from the oscillators however lfo and other control effect the sounds as would be expected. Also all the notes seemed sustained. I checked for bad solder joints and checked the voltage at the ICs. They all are 5v. line out gives the same sounds but greatly lower volume. Any ideas where to start??? My thought is something with the VCA circuit however I am unsure where that circuit is on the board. Any help would be appreciated!
Bodo1967
ninjadru wrote:
My thought is something with the VCA circuit however I am unsure where that circuit is on the board. Any help would be appreciated!


The VCA is built around IC 6 (upper right corner of the PCB).

You'll find all the schematics and other supporting information here:
http://www.jaspersynth.co.uk/documentation/
The VCA is on the last schematic page.
dianusindustrial
Howdy! Just nearing the end of my own build and it feels like it is going well so far. Voltage test proved successful (steady 5v at all sockets) I just triple checked my solder joints. Noticed that there is no output when BP and LP is selected on the filter? Any ideas? Thanks so much!!

Techman


Always advisable to get someone to check your work when you’re done hihi
stringsthings
What a lovely kitty!! smile
dianusindustrial
Strange issue I noticed, oscillators are strangely out of tune, but when I touch a leg of one of the pots the issue resolves? What could cause this?

Video Link
efexor
Techman wrote:


Always advisable to get someone to check your work when you’re done hihi


Cats are taking over Quality Control at DIY section hihi
namke
A quick question for fellow Jasper-builders: Does the 'Sustain' control work over its full rotation? I've found that the sustain on my build only works over the top 25% of the control rotation -- i.e. 25% anti-clockwise from 'full on', the sustain level is zero. This doesn't seem right to me, but I thought I'd ask here just in case it's supposed to be like that!

Apart from that, things appear to be working OK smile
Branko
Got a quick question regarding the 0.1uf Ceramic Caps. I accidentally ordered the cheap disc capacitors and not the multilayer ones. Would the disc ones do the job, or would they make the circuit behave unpredictably?

I'm still halfway through the build so desoldering a few caps wouldn't be too much of a hassle.
sizone
the performance of decoupling caps aren't too big of an issue, I wouldn't bother.
Branko
sizone wrote:
the performance of decoupling caps aren't too big of an issue, I wouldn't bother.


Awesome, thank you!
Purveyor2
Still trying to get my jasper to make noise. Got a scope - VCO’s are working, can trace the waveforms to the filter, watch the filter open when I turn the knob. Just getting some voltage changes from some pins of IC5&6, doesn’t resemble audio. Keyboard and repeat are working. Envelopes are working.

After running through the schematic, it seems the problem is somewhere at or after the filter out. Initially thought the vca, re-examined the entire section. Swapped the lm13700 to no avail.

Any suggestions?
duff
Purveyor2 wrote:
Still trying to get my jasper to make noise. Got a scope - VCO’s are working, can trace the waveforms to the filter, watch the filter open when I turn the knob. Just getting some voltage changes from some pins of IC5&6, doesn’t resemble audio. Keyboard and repeat are working. Envelopes are working.

After running through the schematic, it seems the problem is somewhere at or after the filter out. Initially thought the vca, re-examined the entire section. Swapped the lm13700 to no avail.

Any suggestions?


Are you using CD4069UB?

Are you getting anything on the lugs of the filter switch?
duff
namke wrote:
A quick question for fellow Jasper-builders: Does the 'Sustain' control work over its full rotation? I've found that the sustain on my build only works over the top 25% of the control rotation -- i.e. 25% anti-clockwise from 'full on', the sustain level is zero. This doesn't seem right to me, but I thought I'd ask here just in case it's supposed to be like that!

Apart from that, things appear to be working OK smile


Yeah, mine is like that on both of mine. I’ve always though it was a bit limited in effective range. I’ve been wanting to compare with an original but not yet had a chance.
Purveyor2
Quote:
Are you using CD4069UB?

Are you getting anything on the lugs of the filter switch?


I’ve got cd4069ube. Nothing at the filter switch lugs.
Branko
Like a moron that I am, I ordered the wrong 4016 ICs, but even without them I am getting sound out of the machine! Happy but frustrated I got to wait another two days. very frustrating
Branko
Got the ICs and the synth came to life immediately, but I appear to be having the same issue as jaapl above. I am only using a switch to S8 but it doesn't make much of a difference if it is in the on or off position.

Keyboard tracking is perfect, but the VCA envelope is always on(with no attack or decay.)


Right now I have a sick drone machine haha.

I'm still a newbie at troubleshooting stuff like this, so I am probably missing something obvious. Is it the switch I am using? I'll get a buddy to look at it next week and tell me what I did wrong.

Either way I'm super happy with it!

EDIT: Still having the same issue. I think it's beyond my skill at the moment. The envelope works if it is in repeat mode. It triggers correctly on Attack and Decay but in the other mode it is always on, with no control over Attack and Decay. I can play notes while the envelope is on, but cannot control it.

I'll take an oscilloscope to it tomorrow. There's something in the original Wasp manual that may help me out. If anyone has any ideas though please let me know!
nologin
Hi, i noticed a problem on mine. If the LFO trim is 0 no problem. As soon as i increase it a little. Always after a while the LFO that will detune the oscillators. Even with the oscillator frequency control at 0, even with envelope control and lfo control in the middle. I am trying to find out why this lfo modulate even when it should not. Has anyone had this problem too?
Branko
Branko wrote:
Got the ICs and the synth came to life immediately, but I appear to be having the same issue as jaapl above. I am only using a switch to S8 but it doesn't make much of a difference if it is in the on or off position.

Keyboard tracking is perfect, but the VCA envelope is always on(with no attack or decay.)


Right now I have a sick drone machine haha.

I'm still a newbie at troubleshooting stuff like this, so I am probably missing something obvious. Is it the switch I am using? I'll get a buddy to look at it next week and tell me what I did wrong.

Either way I'm super happy with it!

EDIT: Still having the same issue. I think it's beyond my skill at the moment. The envelope works if it is in repeat mode. It triggers correctly on Attack and Decay but in the other mode it is always on, with no control over Attack and Decay. I can play notes while the envelope is on, but cannot control it.

I'll take an oscilloscope to it tomorrow. There's something in the original Wasp manual that may help me out. If anyone has any ideas though please let me know!


After a whole night of trying to figure this out I'm still stuck. What voltage does IC12 pin 4 need to trigger? I can't get anything above 1.6v unless I'm in Repeat mode. Am I looking at the wrong IC?
nologin
I fixed the problem with my LFO.
My jasper is a V1, by cons at the beginning i did not have the MCP1702, i used the synth without. The day i received the IC, i installed it to socket, but i have absolutely nothing in headphone output. The headphone output is not essential, but... confused
4teenth
I'm not sure if I fitted the wrong pots to the bend and the freq knob for the control osc, but they both work as if they're log, ie they pretty much do nothing apart from in the last little bit of their travel. Also, my pitch bend bends *just under* my preferred 2 semitones range.

Anyone else have the same behaviour on theirs?

It's definitely a skill to hop between the bend and the pitch mod knobs though while soloing isn't it eek!
Reese P. Dubin
I built one last year in the midst of a bunch of other builds for other people. it didnt make any sound on first power up (no smoke overheats or anything like that), i didnt have time to look into it and proceeded to forget i had it for the last year or so. Just found it and plan on getting it going.

Plan on me asking a bunch of dumb questions that may have been answered already.

TRUE STORY
Branko
What would make the filter die after 20 minutes of running fine? I know it could be a million things but what is the first thing that comes to mind? Bad LM13700?
Starspawn
Branko wrote:
What would make the filter die after 20 minutes of running fine? I know it could be a million things but what is the first thing that comes to mind? Bad LM13700?


Bad soldering, mine was intermittent in the beginning, resoldering all suspect joints solved it.
Branko
Starspawn wrote:
Branko wrote:
What would make the filter die after 20 minutes of running fine? I know it could be a million things but what is the first thing that comes to mind? Bad LM13700?


Bad soldering, mine was intermittent in the beginning, resoldering all suspect joints solved it.


I think you're right. I just reflowed the entire filter circuit and it came back and worked for a solid 40 minutes. But then using the filter mode switch made it crap out again. Only High Pass works now and it has no filter, just the oscillators. I've been super super careful about my resistor values and everything.

I'm thinking it might be a bad switch now. The fact that High Pass allows the sound through to the VCA but nothing else has me stumped.
Starspawn
Nah, still more bad soldering to find, that was the second stage for me as well.
I actually think I found an unsoldered pin in the end, which did explain the intermittent filter function.
Branko
Haha I'll keep reflowing then, thanks.
sizone
4teenth wrote:
I'm not sure if I fitted the wrong pots to the bend and the freq knob for the control osc, but they both work as if they're log, ie they pretty much do nothing apart from in the last little bit of their travel. Also, my pitch bend bends *just under* my preferred 2 semitones range.

Anyone else have the same behaviour on theirs?

It's definitely a skill to hop between the bend and the pitch mod knobs though while soloing isn't it eek!


mine does that too. doesn't help that the lin/log a/b labeling was never really standardized, dunno why it would've been too much effort to stamp in the value followed by an li or an lo rather than an a or a b.
Sammus
sizone wrote:
4teenth wrote:
I'm not sure if I fitted the wrong pots to the bend and the freq knob for the control osc, but they both work as if they're log, ie they pretty much do nothing apart from in the last little bit of their travel. Also, my pitch bend bends *just under* my preferred 2 semitones range.

Anyone else have the same behaviour on theirs?

It's definitely a skill to hop between the bend and the pitch mod knobs though while soloing isn't it eek!


mine does that too. doesn't help that the lin/log a/b labeling was never really standardized, dunno why it would've been too much effort to stamp in the value followed by an li or an lo rather than an a or a b.


Yeha I had the same issue, posted a bit about it earlier in the thread. Seems to be UK vs US standards. Swapped the pots around and everything is now good.
4teenth
Sammus wrote:
sizone wrote:
4teenth wrote:
I'm not sure if I fitted the wrong pots to the bend and the freq knob for the control osc, but they both work as if they're log, ie they pretty much do nothing apart from in the last little bit of their travel. Also, my pitch bend bends *just under* my preferred 2 semitones range.

Anyone else have the same behaviour on theirs?

It's definitely a skill to hop between the bend and the pitch mod knobs though while soloing isn't it eek!


mine does that too. doesn't help that the lin/log a/b labeling was never really standardized, dunno why it would've been too much effort to stamp in the value followed by an li or an lo rather than an a or a b.


Yeha I had the same issue, posted a bit about it earlier in the thread. Seems to be UK vs US standards. Swapped the pots around and everything is now good.


So swapped just the bend and the freq control pots?
Sammus
4teenth wrote:
Sammus wrote:
sizone wrote:
4teenth wrote:
I'm not sure if I fitted the wrong pots to the bend and the freq knob for the control osc, but they both work as if they're log, ie they pretty much do nothing apart from in the last little bit of their travel. Also, my pitch bend bends *just under* my preferred 2 semitones range.

Anyone else have the same behaviour on theirs?

It's definitely a skill to hop between the bend and the pitch mod knobs though while soloing isn't it eek!


mine does that too. doesn't help that the lin/log a/b labeling was never really standardized, dunno why it would've been too much effort to stamp in the value followed by an li or an lo rather than an a or a b.


Yeha I had the same issue, posted a bit about it earlier in the thread. Seems to be UK vs US standards. Swapped the pots around and everything is now good.


So swapped just the bend and the freq control pots?


I accidentally soldered a log pot where a lin should have been because of confusing part numbers, so had to desolder and fix. Can't remember which one. The parts and schematic and silkscreen are correct, I was wrong. So follow what ever the build doc says. Just make sure you put log and lin in correct spots.
aonghus
Hi,
Just finished building mine.
Having the same keyboard issue that others have mentioned, it will trigger random notes. The problem is particularly pronounced on the bottom key, though it happens on others also. If I touch ground whilst playing, the problem goes away.
Is there any way to solve this problem without touching ground? Sensitivity trimmer doesn't seem to resolve the issue.
northerntao
Sorry if this breaks a rule, but I don't have enough post to do it in the For Sale forum.

I have a Jasper v2 board (2nd run), along with a JasperIN PCB, with most of the parts to build it, including knobs. Only missing a couple resistors, wire, speaker, and some misc parts like MTA connectors.

Given my struggles with DIY projects, I'm thinking I'd like to part with this project and spend more time playing with what I already have.

With the boards and parts, I've spent about $275. I would ship it anywhere in the states for $300 if anyone is interested. I can provide Mouser and Small Bear orders for the parts I have.

PM if interested.
Techman
aonghus wrote:
Hi,
Just finished building mine.
Having the same keyboard issue that others have mentioned, it will trigger random notes. The problem is particularly pronounced on the bottom key, though it happens on others also. If I touch ground whilst playing, the problem goes away.
Is there any way to solve this problem without touching ground? Sensitivity trimmer doesn't seem to resolve the issue.


I had the same issue. It seems that the type of wall wart power supply used has some impact on accurate keyboard operation. My solution was to run the unit from batteries. Works perfectly now without earth strap.
aonghus
Techman wrote:
aonghus wrote:
Hi,
Just finished building mine.
Having the same keyboard issue that others have mentioned, it will trigger random notes. The problem is particularly pronounced on the bottom key, though it happens on others also. If I touch ground whilst playing, the problem goes away.
Is there any way to solve this problem without touching ground? Sensitivity trimmer doesn't seem to resolve the issue.


I had the same issue. It seems that the type of wall wart power supply used has some impact on accurate keyboard operation. My solution was to run the unit from batteries. Works perfectly now without earth strap.



Curiously enough, I am using it with the same power supply now, but in a completely different house, and it works fine.
I wonder could it be the fact that I had several things plugged into the wall the first time, but now I only have a couple?
dianusindustrial
Branko wrote:
Starspawn wrote:
Branko wrote:
What would make the filter die after 20 minutes of running fine? I know it could be a million things but what is the first thing that comes to mind? Bad LM13700?


Bad soldering, mine was intermittent in the beginning, resoldering all suspect joints solved it.


I think you're right. I just reflowed the entire filter circuit and it came back and worked for a solid 40 minutes. But then using the filter mode switch made it crap out again. Only High Pass works now and it has no filter, just the oscillators. I've been super super careful about my resistor values and everything.

I'm thinking it might be a bad switch now. The fact that High Pass allows the sound through to the VCA but nothing else has me stumped.


Had the exact same issue with only high pass signal coming through. Switched power supplies and that seemed to fix it. Seems to be a common problem
Branko
I'm getting closer. I reflowed some solder, and changed my link wires. I was using a eurorack strip cable initially and replaced it with individual single wires. The filter is no longer an issue. My VCA isn't always in the on position and decays properly, but after prolonged use the synth will start triggering itself.

I replaced the caps in the keyboard sensitivity circuit but I still get this happening. I think the next thing I will try is buy a couple of battery holders and run it off that. And as I've asked before, the decoupling caps don't seem to be an issue, but I might just go ahead and replace the cheap ceramics with the monolithic ones.
jersupereq
Redacted
I'm an idiot, had a solder bridge
Purveyor2
I’ve given up on mine. Can trace audio to r33 then nothing. Have rebuilt the entire vca region and the output hardware & changed out multiple chips. So I’d like to buy a fresh pcb and start over and/or let someone have a go at troubleshooting mine.
ElSmurf
Finished mine a few weeks ago and finally got round to take some pics.

Enclosure made from an Ikea bamboo cutting board.


Bjarne
@ElSmurf Nice!!!
Branko
When running off batteries I hear a high pitched noise in the background, always at a same level. Odd stuff. However, the synth doesn't seem to trigger itself after prolonged use. I used it for 4 hours straight today with no issue, I just have to run it off a power supply. No noise from that. The battery holders raised the way the pcb sits, so it may just have been the bare pcb touching my desk that was causing the retriggering. d'oh! I've been so stuck with this issue that I hadn't even considered a case yet.

EDIT: Update. It's been days of constant use and the Jasper works perfectly. FINALLY.

If anyone else is having an issue with retriggering, it may be something as simple as not having the PCB flat on the table!!
synthetek
fluffybeard wrote:
Ok, so my noise issue seems to be oscillator 1, 2 and the noise source leaking regardless of filter, vca setting. I've reflowed the soldering, and checked capacitor values, but no luck yet. very frustrating


Did you ever find a fix for this? mine seems to be doing the same thing.
mbroers
i had pretty bad noise problems when i was using an unregulated power supply. is there noise if you run off batteries? if not, its probably the power supply.
synthetek
I tired several power supplies and battery power and I still get noise leaking even with volume down, the pitch of the noise changes when you touch keys and it also is affected by pitch mod.
goodrevdoc
I get some noise like that with the speaker and the phones out. Maybe the 386 circuit?
zoth4355
My Jasper's been running fine since the build a couple of months ago. Opened it lately to correct the phone jack's wiring. After the mod I noticed the 1/4W 10 ohm resistor I used instead of the bead in the power circuit was fried (don't know if it happened before or after the phone jack mod), replaced it with a 1/2W 10 ohm and the resistor was getting really hot, after talking to Jason I simply bypassed the resistor with a bare wire. But I later did a quick voltage check on some IC sockets and noticed I had 6.5v instead of 5v. The unit seems to work fine but concerned about long term issues and how to correct this. Could the MCP1702 regulator be faulty? I need to reopen the Jasper to do more probing but wondered if anyone has encountered this issue. Thanks.
MetroJuno121
I’d like to share my build of this amazing wasp clone.
Huge thanks to Jason for this project.
I was 17 back in 1978 and have fond memories of playing with a wasp in my local music shop. The Jasper sends me right back there!
The build of the circuit board and panel took me 2 days – being very methodical and double checking everything as I went. It took me a good couple of hours just labelling up the component packs – cutting the BOM into strips and taping on to the packs to keep me organised!!
The board is from the ‘fifth run’.
Components largely came from Mouser with metal film resistors from Rapid here in the UK.
Pots came from Das Musikding. (all components as per the BOM)
Knobs came from TME.
The build instructions are superb and everything worked first time.
The output from the amplifier/speaker combination does have some very low background noise but the line out is noiseless and sounds great through a good amp and speakers.
I made a case in painted MDF with a painted aluminium panel for the gap between circuit board and panel. See photos in later post below.
I chose to build in the jasper midi mod which works brilliantly.
Thanks again Jason for taking the time to make this possible.
[img][/img]
MetroJuno121
I meant to add that, as has been mentioned here before, the only slight 'issue' I encountered is you need 39 of the .1uF decoupling capacitors not 38. Luckily I have lots of these from other projects.
MetroJuno121
I can now show some photos!



AonFLuX
MetroJuno121 wrote:
I can now show some photos!




Absolutely beautiful!!

applause we're not worthy
MetroJuno121
Oh thank you!
Great music BTW.
Bodo1967
AonFLuX wrote:
Absolutely beautiful!!


+1 thumbs up

Which reminds me I completely forgot to post pics of mine d'oh! after I got it up and running in October. Well then - this is mine:





It has "only" MIDI in for external control, as I used the Elby miniMIDI-Wasp.
Branko
both of those look fantastic!

What does the underside of these cases look like? I'm trying to figure out a case right now and evaluating my options.
Bodo1967
Branko wrote:
both of those look fantastic!


Thanks grin.

Branko wrote:
What does the underside of these cases look like?


In my case: Plain black wood (the entire case is made of high quality birch plywood, which is called 'multiplex' in Germany), the holes for the mounting screws, and a few self-adhesive felt pads so it does neither scratch any surfaces nor gets scratched itself.

So all in all, the underside is a plain rectangular black area with a few screwheads and a few felt pads grin.
MetroJuno121
Some more pictures of mine. One showing the underside. I used the twin battery holders in the BOM and hot glued them to the PCB. Two cut-outs in the base mdf give access and they are covered by some thin birch ply painted grey. The speaker cover is actually a thin birch ply frame covered with some dark grey cloth from my son's old school trousers!



Branko
Thanks! That helps a lot!
vinyl_junkie
Just finished my build and everything appears to be ok but got a few question on the operation of a few bits.

The LFO Pitch modulation knob has too much gain. When the pot is at 50% (half way) it's already applied max modulation, the rest of the travel does nothing. This is slightly annoying as I like more subtle modulation and it's hard to dial it in when it's so sensitive in the lower ranges.
Is this normal behavior?

The other thing is with the glide pot at 0 you can still some times hear very small amounts of portamento.

Cheers
sizone
you probably put an exponential pot in for a linear pot. there's a lot of that going around.
vinyl_junkie
sizone wrote:
you probably put an exponential pot in for a linear pot. there's a lot of that going around.


Hi, that's exactly what I originally thought but I looked at some pics I took of it before putting the front panel on and I can see on the pot says B50k so it's the correct linear pot fitted, odd.

Still need to decide on what case to put it in and still need to build the MIDI board.
duff
vinyl_junkie wrote:
Just finished my build and everything appears to be ok but got a few question on the operation of a few bits.

The LFO Pitch modulation knob has too much gain. When the pot is at 50% (half way) it's already applied max modulation, the rest of the travel does nothing. This is slightly annoying as I like more subtle modulation and it's hard to dial it in when it's so sensitive in the lower ranges.
Is this normal behavior?

The other thing is with the glide pot at 0 you can still some times hear very small amounts of portamento.

Cheers


For LFO Pitch modulation check that R62 is the correct value (470R).

With the Glide, do you hear this on both Oscillators? Perhaps start with checking that that R47 (Osc 1) and R94 (Osc 2) are 10K.
Branko
Finished soldering my 2nd Jasper. I got it cause I then thought I completely screwed up the first one, haha. This one went way way way smoother and basically worked perfectly right off the bat. Sonically even better, too!

Now, cases....

One thing: I had a hell of a time finding a 1m dual log pot (Smallbear's website wasn't working for me), so I had a 500k one.

The glide still works, and my question is: is it just the range of the glide that is affected? Am I adding any extra strain on the Jasper with a lower resistance pot?
ZZ Ardoz
Finished off my Jasper - checked for bridges, voltage is hitting the chips just fine, but I'm getting the same note no matter what key I play. Reseated all the chips - just not sure what to look for. Any ideas?
synthetek
ZZ Ardoz wrote:
Finished off my Jasper - checked for bridges, voltage is hitting the chips just fine, but I'm getting the same note no matter what key I play. Reseated all the chips - just not sure what to look for. Any ideas?



I had a similar problem, at IC27 I had a CD40192BE instead of CD4019BE d'oh!
ZZ Ardoz
synthetek wrote:
ZZ Ardoz wrote:
Finished off my Jasper - checked for bridges, voltage is hitting the chips just fine, but I'm getting the same note no matter what key I play. Reseated all the chips - just not sure what to look for. Any ideas?



I had a similar problem, at IC27 I had a CD40192BE instead of CD4019BE d'oh!


All the chips are right - maybe one is a duffer and needs replacing - thanks!
Toris
Those cases look great. That's what I'm now considering.
Toris
Was the wood used in your cases hand sprayed with aerosols or professionally done? Thanks
Toris
Does anyone recognise these knobs? I've been lucky enough to purchase a very fine fully built Jasper but it's missing a few knobs and I don't want to change them all if I can avoid it.

Thanks for any help given

mangros
Looks like these: http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/knurled-colored-cap s/
MetroJuno121
Toris wrote:
Was the wood used in your cases hand sprayed with aerosols or professionally done? Thanks


With my case I just used hand sprayed aerosols on MDF. A good few coats of high build primer left for 24 hours and then a few thin coats of satin black.
Toris
mangros wrote:
Looks like these: http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/knurled-colored-cap s/


That's great thank you. I think I've found them on mouser too. Thanks so much for putting the effort in to find them for me.
Toris
MetroJuno121 wrote:
Toris wrote:
Was the wood used in your cases hand sprayed with aerosols or professionally done? Thanks


With my case I just used hand sprayed aerosols on MDF. A good few coats of high build primer left for 24 hours and then a few thin coats of satin black.


Great thanks. You've given me the urge to get cracking.
SUB-versive
Finally put together my Jasper - powered it up via battery and I've hit a few problems that I'd be greatful if anyone could point me in the direction of what might be wrong!

1. I'm getting audio out of the line out, but not out of the headphones or speaker - any idea what the problem may be?

2. The only audio I get is from the filter self oscillating and the white noise circuit.. any idea why I'm not getting the oscillators?
MetroJuno121
SUB-versive wrote:
Finally put together my Jasper - powered it up via battery and I've hit a few problems that I'd be greatful if anyone could point me in the direction of what might be wrong!

1. I'm getting audio out of the line out, but not out of the headphones or speaker - any idea what the problem may be?

2. The only audio I get is from the filter self oscillating and the white noise circuit.. any idea why I'm not getting the oscillators?


As to 1., well it may point to the amplifier IC23 and associated components. Have a look at your soldering/components around this area. Perhaps reflow your soldering here. Or it could be simply the contacts in the line socket not switching the signal through to the amplifier properly. When nothing is plugged into the line socket it should route the signal through to the amp/phone socket via it's built in switch contacts.

As to 2., this is trickier. It could be that the oscillators aren't working at all or that the signal isn't getting through for some reason. Some sort of signal tracing may need to be done. The fact that both aren't being heard but noise is, may be as simple as some problem around S2B and S4B or the level controls VR19 and VR20. Again check/reflow your soldering and check component values are correct.
grm
hey,

i am desperately searching for a dual 1M ohms log pot for the GLIDE control.
any hints are welcome.
i am located in finland, so i prefer getting it from europe (or asia).

how would using a linear pot for this affect the function?
or then a dual 500K log one, that i can get?

thanks.

grm
MetroJuno121
grm wrote:
hey,

i am desperately searching for a dual 1M ohms log pot for the GLIDE control.
any hints are welcome.
i am located in finland, so i prefer getting it from europe (or asia).

how would using a linear pot for this affect the function?
or then a dual 500K log one, that i can get?

thanks.

grm


Why not this one as per the BOM?
https://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Potentiometer-16mm-Stereo-1M-log_1
I got most of my pots from here and delivery was quick (I'm in the UK)
grm
thanks, for the quick and helpful reply.

i have no idea, why i did not see it when i checked their stock before??
must be my fault.

d'oh!
MetroJuno121
grm wrote:
thanks, for the quick and helpful reply.

i have no idea, why i did not see it when i checked their stock before??
must be my fault.

d'oh!


:-)
SmartBits
I'm a bit further building the case for my Jasper (or actually my partner is, as she's the one with the woodworking skills...). The idea was to make it a bit suitecase-like and easy to take the Jasper out (as I'll probably have to open it up for the add-ons or mods). What's still missing is a leather carrying strap that goes on the two extending wooden "ears":





balbibou
nice case SmartBits ... I still need to build a simple one. The dust spreads too fast...
Branko
I have an idea to do something similar to the Korg Arp Odyssey case...a single piece folded on two sides. I'm gonna try black plexi and heatbend it. I just need to get time on the CNC as I've built a prototype out of cardboard. Fingers crossed!
SUB-versive
Hey guys, thanks for the fix - managed to get the speaker and OSC2 working fine now.

OSC1 on the other hand I have an intermittent fault where it cuts in and out, sometimes if you wiggle the Octave selector switch it comes back in, but often cuts out again shortly after.

Wondering if it might have something to do with the filter too - sometimes just touching the filter will cause it come in / out... any ideas what might be the problem?
grm
I have a problem with the WITH control of the 1st OSC.

It does not work anymore, it used to, but since i opened the case up again, to solder up some wires for the MIDI I/O. it doesn't anymore.

I have checked for broken connections around the pot and have resoldered them already. with no change.

Please let me know how to narrow down the possible fault-zone.

Everything else works like it should, well sometimes two of the keys have played the same tone, but i have not quite determined when and when not. But for now that is secondary.

Thanks.
MetroJuno121
grm wrote:
I have a problem with the WITH control of the 1st OSC.

It does not work anymore, it used to, but since i opened the case up again, to solder up some wires for the MIDI I/O. it doesn't anymore.

I have checked for broken connections around the pot and have resoldered them already. with no change.

Please let me know how to narrow down the possible fault-zone.

Everything else works like it should, well sometimes two of the keys have played the same tone, but i have not quite determined when and when not. But for now that is secondary.

Thanks.


Sounds like you're doing the right things. The fact it worked before opening up your case does suggest a mechanical problem. Try re-seating the chips perhaps and re-flow more of your soldering.
Sammus
Hmm, mine was working perfectly. I hadn't played with it in a couple months, now oscillator 1 does not work at all. Everything else seems to be functioning OK. Any ideas where to start looking? I'll pull it apart and start probing when I get a chance, but if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be a great smile
LED-man
Sammus wrote:
Hmm, mine was working perfectly. I hadn't played with it in a couple months, now oscillator 1 does not work at all. Everything else seems to be functioning OK. Any ideas where to start looking? I'll pull it apart and start probing when I get a chance, but if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be a great smile


you find the schematics here:
http://www.jaspersynth.co.uk/documentation/

(precondition, i´m sure you checked the pcb for bad solder joints)
at first check the voltage at the 555 (IC1/IC2)
exchange these against each other.
sometimes are IC pins bend to inside and you can´t see the bend pin from outside.
same for IC 24 vs IC37 and so on.. (see schematics Page 6-9)
that was for the most users the fastest way.. or you have to trace with a scope the complete way.
aabbcc
Does any kind soul have a complete mouser cart for this smile
grm
hi everybody,

finally i got all the parts needed to finish the JASPER. applause

Finished soldering tonight and have the correct power supply voltage at all IC pins. Have bridged the OSC volume control pinheaders and have set all pots according to the first test info from the build guide.

Unfortunately i have no audio output (only a very faint hum, when i crank up the amp), either at the LINE or PHONES out. seriously, i just don't get it

I am not very familiar with troubleshooting a big project like this and am in dire need of help doing it. How do i follow the signal path? Which pins at what ICs are relevant for this?

i have checked audio, with the amp cranked up, and can hear the noise of the noise signal faintly, the modulation of that with LFO and filters seems to work.

i have checked some things that i understood from the service manual with an oscilloscope and it seems the keyboard is working as well.

a low hum flom the 555 outputs can be tunes with the master tune.

i need HELP.

Hope to read from yous soon.
Thanks in advance.
moogkid
MetroJuno121 wrote:
I can now show some photos!






Best looking case so far!

I would love to get a hold of the templates for this.

Not sure if I asked earlier, has anyone done a desktop version without the keys? I haven't started my build yet, but was thinking it would be nice as a desktop, maybe it's possible to snap off the keys and get it working as a desktop module.

Cheers
moogkid This is fun!
Branko
Checking the Jasper website again, I was pleasantly surprised to find out that 3d printable files are available!

http://www.jaspersynth.co.uk/enclosure/

So I scrapped my initial idea and already printed a set of sides, just need to cut some acrylic.
grm
grm wrote:
hi everybody,

finally i got all the parts needed to finish the JASPER. applause

Finished soldering tonight and have the correct power supply voltage at all IC pins. Have bridged the OSC volume control pinheaders and have set all pots according to the first test info from the build guide.

Unfortunately i have no audio output (only a very faint hum, when i crank up the amp), either at the LINE or PHONES out. seriously, i just don't get it

I am not very familiar with troubleshooting a big project like this and am in dire need of help doing it. How do i follow the signal path? Which pins at what ICs are relevant for this?

i have checked audio, with the amp cranked up, and can hear the noise of the noise signal faintly, the modulation of that with LFO and filters seems to work.

i have checked some things that i understood from the service manual with an oscilloscope and it seems the keyboard is working as well.

a low hum flom the 555 outputs can be tunes with the master tune.

i need HELP.

Hope to read from yous soon.
Thanks in advance.


ok,

i have managed to trace the signal from the oscillators through the filters until the VCA (IC6) at it's signal input (pin13) the signal is pretty faint, if heard with an audio probe and on it's output (pin12/16) it is completly silent. before that after the VDF all seems to work, including LFO, MOD ENVELOPE, NOISE, GLIDE, BEND and KEYS.

I have changed the 13700 and the problem is the same, no change.

What could be the problem? and how can i find it now?
Sammus
LED-man wrote:
Sammus wrote:
Hmm, mine was working perfectly. I hadn't played with it in a couple months, now oscillator 1 does not work at all. Everything else seems to be functioning OK. Any ideas where to start looking? I'll pull it apart and start probing when I get a chance, but if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be a great smile


you find the schematics here:
http://www.jaspersynth.co.uk/documentation/

(precondition, i´m sure you checked the pcb for bad solder joints)
at first check the voltage at the 555 (IC1/IC2)
exchange these against each other.
sometimes are IC pins bend to inside and you can´t see the bend pin from outside.
same for IC 24 vs IC37 and so on.. (see schematics Page 6-9)
that was for the most users the fastest way.. or you have to trace with a scope the complete way.


Fixed! I noticed that when I loosened the panel all was fine, and the issue would come back when I put pressure on the panel. Turned out the copper legs I used on the glide pot were sticking up a little and touching the panel. It had worn through a little bit and must have been causing some short through the copper flood underneath. I clipped the top of the leads and put some tape over where it wore through underneath. Now it's all cased up and working perfectly smile
KlangGenerator
Finished my Jasper today. When I am in hold2 mode, the filter control env only retriggers a few times when a new note is played. After some notes the filter control env doesn't work anymore. Switching hold off and on again makes the envelope work again for a few notes.

What could cause this to happen? I think it's not normal that the filter envelope doens't retrigger all the time when hold2 mode is enabled... seriously, i just don't get it
grm
grm wrote:
grm wrote:
hi everybody,

finally i got all the parts needed to finish the JASPER. applause

Finished soldering tonight and have the correct power supply voltage at all IC pins. Have bridged the OSC volume control pinheaders and have set all pots according to the first test info from the build guide.

Unfortunately i have no audio output (only a very faint hum, when i crank up the amp), either at the LINE or PHONES out. seriously, i just don't get it

I am not very familiar with troubleshooting a big project like this and am in dire need of help doing it. How do i follow the signal path? Which pins at what ICs are relevant for this?

i have checked audio, with the amp cranked up, and can hear the noise of the noise signal faintly, the modulation of that with LFO and filters seems to work.

i have checked some things that i understood from the service manual with an oscilloscope and it seems the keyboard is working as well.

a low hum flom the 555 outputs can be tunes with the master tune.

i need HELP.

Hope to read from yous soon.
Thanks in advance.


ok,

i have managed to trace the signal from the oscillators through the filters until the VCA (IC6) at it's signal input (pin13) the signal is pretty faint, if heard with an audio probe and on it's output (pin12/16) it is completly silent. before that after the VDF all seems to work, including LFO, MOD ENVELOPE, NOISE, GLIDE, BEND and KEYS.

I have changed the 13700 and the problem is the same, no change.

What could be the problem? and how can i find it now?


ok,
pretty quiet here.
but, i got my JASPER fixed up, so now all works.
the problem was a busted IC in the VCA section.
(well, according to the schematics it is right after the VCA OUT.
more like the line out booster controled with the VOLUME pot.)
i've replaced it and then all worked!! It's peanut butter jelly time!

for those curious, it was IC5 (4069).

next step, JASPER MIDI, is there an extra thread for this add-on.
build one into my old JASPER, but besides blinking when i play notes on the JASPER and blinking LED when in MIDI CHANNEL LEARN mode, there is no IN or OUT.

what could be the cause for that?
does anybody have experiences with this?
synthetek
Which ic did you have to replace?
makhho
also curious about the IC you had to replace
grm
for those curious, it was IC5 (4069).

i've edited my post above.

JASPER MIDI, anyone?

still need help with that. help
SmartBits
Quick question as I did something stupid with my adapter: is + on the pin or on the outside? I thought it should be on the pin, but I'd rather be sure... The schematic in the build doc seems to show that, but I'm still too much of a noob to trust myself with that. hihi
synthetek
SmartBits wrote:
Quick question as I did something stupid with my adapter: is + on the pin or on the outside? I thought it should be on the pin, but I'd rather be sure... The schematic in the build doc seems to show that, but I'm still too much of a noob to trust myself with that. hihi


Its center +
SmartBits
synthetek wrote:
Its center +

Thanks!
makhho
working on a JASPER 2.2 revision from july 2017

build guide "Jasper2" from 1st page of this thread suggests that I put in TR1 and TR2 at a more right/flush orientation with respect to the PCB panel, however TR1 and TR2 on my 2.2 PCB revision are slightly offset and not 'inline' as seen in the build guide. I am not sure if I should follow these suggestions.

anyone assemble a recent JASPER and can provide accurate guidance?
makhho
also -- Jasper2 Construction guide suggests that there are x4 TWO PIN MTA-100 headers, but the BOM for JASPER V2 only lists x3 for the actual build.

Can anyone explain these discrepancies?
sompost
Hi everyone!

Sorry for moving this thread to the top again, but I finally managed to finish my Jasper, including MIDI.

The ...ahem... slick case is made of cheap wood stained black and then covered in 3 layers of Tru Oil for a shoddy vintage look. Wood screws are brass to go with the black/yellow wasp theme.





These pix were taken from a YouTube video of my MIDIfying the Jasper (https://youtu.be/28f_aSbw5Ls), in case anyone cares to know.

Cheers, Ralph

PS: Never mind the 'crooked' knobs, I haven't adjusted them all yet.
makhho
Okay -- have the jasper finished and am trying to troubleshoot some basic issues.

Turns on/LED lights up. I setup the potentiometers and switches to their initial setup state (as described in the build guide), and I began doing the keyboard tuning bit, however I am getting a very quiet signal when ever the keyboard triggers the envelope.

I jumped the two oscillator levels to get max output from them, however the line out signal is very weak. It is there, but it just sounds like it is attenuated heavily or something; there is a distinct noisey whooshing sound in the background.

I checked +5v on all ICs. Not sure which pins to prod for a voltage reading on the 555s, the 386, and the LM13700. It seems like it isn't the standard prod pin 7/8 and 14/16 as on the other ICs.

Checked my cap polatirty and also IC orientation and placement. Using a 12V 500mA PSU.

Anyone encounter something similar or have suggestions on where to start troubleshooting?
makhho
It is strange because everything functionally seems to be working, only problem is that I must have the volume on the JASPER and mixer/monitors jacked really high.

Noise, different oscillator shapes, FT", Q / FILTER, LFO waveform, etc. all seem to be working, I just have to boost the hell out of the signal to hear anything.

Looked over caps and resistor values near the line out and phones, and nothing looks wrong... seriously, i just don't get it

EDIT -- FIXED. Wow -- completely spaced out on the external trigger mod.

I wasn't getting line out from the minijack socket because I didn't have a header bridging the T to S on the external mod. Ugh. Okay.
If anyone runs into this issue hopefully this helps.
Branko


FINALLY put together a case for one of my Jaspers. Had to clean up my 3d printed sides to make everything fit, but overall I'm super happy.

I did notice that my filter knob is all of a sudden hard to turn at the 3 o'clock position, which means it'll surely fail down the line, but I'm not opening it up and resoldering after all this work getting the case on. That's for another time.
Ran out of knobs too. Ah well.
4teenth
Branko wrote:


FINALLY put together a case for one of my Jaspers. Had to clean up my 3d printed sides to make everything fit, but overall I'm super happy.

I did notice that my filter knob is all of a sudden hard to turn at the 3 o'clock position, which means it'll surely fail down the line, but I'm not opening it up and resoldering after all this work getting the case on. That's for another time.
Ran out of knobs too. Ah well.



Oohhhhhh I really like that. How is the bottom protected?
Branko
To note, this is designed by Jason, I just followed the instructions on his site (with some slight modifications because I have a router not a laser cutter)

http://www.jaspersynth.co.uk/enclosure/



So as you can see there is a piece that is as large as the entire unit at the bottom protecting the whole thing. It only has some holes for the battery holders.

It feels very sturdy when it's all done!
Branko
Anyone have any idea why the function of the Random would suddenly change to something less controllable/more noisy. Noisy in the sense that it seems way more chaotic than before. It's odd cause the other modes work fine. They modify the filter the same as before, only Random is being weird. As I noted my filter pot is acting up, but why would it only affect the Random?

I'll open up my case and take a look but I'm perplexed.

I'll make some sound files later to illustrate my issue.
aabbcc
Does anyone have the exact amount of space (height) between the pcb and the alpha pots? Would like to use someone of spacer between them smile

Someone mentioned the pink packaging material tayda used but I think this has been replaced since all my I've sockets came stuck down in a much more dense material which I think does not have the same height.
LED-man
15-17mm spacers works fine.
If you can’t find this size, use washers

Edit: you can also attach a 3mm to male/female spacer to get the size
aabbcc
LED-man wrote:
15-17mm spacers works fine.
If you can’t find this size, use washers

Edit: you can also attach a 3mm to male/female spacer to get the size


Thanks but I was thinking about the space between the pcb and 16mm alpha pots, see this post where duff has added the "pink stuff" smile

duff wrote:
...
Edit: Oh and the pink stuff Tayda uses to pack ICs is the perfect height for lifting the alpha pots up to meet the panel.

makhho
So I've had my JASPER up and running for a few months now, however I think I am now experiencing a change in the resonance quality of the JASPER. It is either from working on the MIDI implementation and perhaps fudging something up on the main board, or it is paranoia.

Has anyone experienced a slight difference in their resonance behavior on the JASPER?

It just doesn't seem to drive the filter into weird behavioral states like it did when I first got it up and running.

Would anyone be willing to post a video of OSC1 / OSC2 / OSC1 + OSC2 at full volume being multi-mode filter swept along with a steady Q sweep from full counterclockwise to clockwise pot position? Leaving all the other pots alone or at minimum (modulation, pitch, etc.)?

Thanks in advance!
KlangGenerator
aabbcc wrote:
LED-man wrote:
15-17mm spacers works fine.
If you can’t find this size, use washers

Edit: you can also attach a 3mm to male/female spacer to get the size


Thanks but I was thinking about the space between the pcb and 16mm alpha pots, see this post where duff has added the "pink stuff" smile


The best idea is to mount the top panel and fix all those pots from the top with nuts. Then solder the pins from the bottom and you automatically have the correct length. wink
duff
aabbcc wrote:

Thanks but I was thinking about the space between the pcb and 16mm alpha pots, see this post where duff has added the "pink stuff" smile


Although the pink stuff worked better than nothing, particularly for the vert PCB pin pots, on my second build I actually found it much easier to use only pots with lugs onto which I soldered some long legs of solid core wire. I could then bolt everything firmly to the panel and guide the legs through the PCB. This bit was a little fiddly but you can get all legs through the PCB before soldering. I used reasonably wide gauge solid core wire so that when the panel was subsequently removed they didn’t flop around. For reference though, the pink stuff is approximately 10mm thick.
JuNo1O6
I posted this in the other thread (which may have not been the right place). But could anyone link me to a 3 way hold switch and a trigger jack please, I've been looking everywhere and some help would be appreciated smile
aabbcc
KlangGenerator wrote:
aabbcc wrote:
LED-man wrote:
15-17mm spacers works fine.
If you can’t find this size, use washers

Edit: you can also attach a 3mm to male/female spacer to get the size


Thanks but I was thinking about the space between the pcb and 16mm alpha pots, see this post where duff has added the "pink stuff" smile


The best idea is to mount the top panel and fix all those pots from the top with nuts. Then solder the pins from the bottom and you automatically have the correct length. wink


Ofc, should have thought of that lol since thats how i form all my LEDs


duff wrote:
aabbcc wrote:

Thanks but I was thinking about the space between the pcb and 16mm alpha pots, see this post where duff has added the "pink stuff" smile


Although the pink stuff worked better than nothing, particularly for the vert PCB pin pots, on my second build I actually found it much easier to use only pots with lugs onto which I soldered some long legs of solid core wire. I could then bolt everything firmly to the panel and guide the legs through the PCB. This bit was a little fiddly but you can get all legs through the PCB before soldering. I used reasonably wide gauge solid core wire so that when the panel was subsequently removed they didn’t flop around. For reference though, the pink stuff is approximately 10mm thick.


Ah smart, already got the pcb mounted pots though.

I also seem to have orsdered the 150 k and 19k resistors as 1/8 w instead of 1/4w...will that be fine or should I just pick up some 1/4w? My inner ocd tells me to keep the fuck away from mixing 1/8w and 1/w hehe
sizone
JuNo1O6 wrote:
I posted this in the other thread (which may have not been the right place). But could anyone link me to a 3 way hold switch and a trigger jack please, I've been looking everywhere and some help would be appreciated smile


smallbear
JuNo1O6
sizone wrote:
JuNo1O6 wrote:
I posted this in the other thread (which may have not been the right place). But could anyone link me to a 3 way hold switch and a trigger jack please, I've been looking everywhere and some help would be appreciated smile


smallbear


Thanks!
prae
it seems that 3x50K Lin: VR1, VR4, VR6 is out of stock from musikding. you can use these instead (i think)


https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/RV24AF-40-15R1-B50 K-3LA?qs=8%252br4Hz5Xir%252bftq1GoUwGtA%3d%3d
3phase





Hi there, thanks to Jason for this Project, was looking for wasp since many years and his board mande it quite easy to get finally get one.

I post this since i think thats good manners when doing such web born projects, and to point to a few details that might help other builders.

I run my Jasper from a USB Battery pack for mobile phones..it gives straight 5 volts, has over 2 amperes, lasts really long with the Jasper, and is rechargeable. I connect via an USB socket so the jasper can be powered from an usb hub too.

I dont like connections on the side of synths..so I placed the jacks lookin upward in the back like with the original wasp.

I used Jasons Midi board but added a midi thru circuit on a little extra board.. Synths without midi thru are a pain in the ass on stage settups and its just 2 extra transistors.. maybe an idea for future versions of that midi board?

the 6 minijacks on the right side are the ext input and ext gate.. the other 4 dont have a function yet. act as mult for now. I would like to have cv control ability..but not sure yet how to get that.. Would it be possible to update the midiboard to accept additional pitch cv input? Havent bothered to add a buffer for VCA and filter CV control yet, when ther is no pitch CV aswell.

I used a little speaker cabinet from an old laptop as speaker for the jasper.. gives less volume than the wasp style speaker, but has better lowend so its quite realistic what you hear from the speaker and can be used as little monitor for the player to hear at the synth more than makes it into the mix of a session.. therefore the speaker has an extra switch and the speaker of swith on the line out got disabled.. not the the most battery conserving way.. but that usb battery pack really lasts and lasts.. I used an LM386-1 as speaker amp since its already able to overload the laptop speakers i use here.. so some battery saving here.

Additional mods..

1) a switch that disables glide for the upper oscillator.. so when set toward the lower osc, only that osc gets the glide.

2) a switch that adds a 22uF bipolar cap in paralel to the 1 uF LFO speed cap.. makes the LFO speed significantly slower..

3) original ca3080 in the filter and vca

sounds more distorted and fatter than the 13700´s.. but teh 13700´s are not bad really..more detailed and dry actually gives better food for fx and more variance in the sound. The old ca3080 with the higher distortion cloud some differences between settings.. but i like the general character and resonance.. 2 different chips seem to add a little colour to the filter than having the way closer matched one chip lm13700 solution, which has bit tighter modulation, by that closer matching. Wasnt so easy to decide really..so when no ca3080 fly around i would suggest to forget about that.. I needed to remove the extra resistor in the vca to make the envelope closing, so back to original wasp circuit..

I also tried NE555 as source oscillators.. Her i had a more clear opinion about better or not.. I do think they sound better, more charming, somehow a little rounder, more alive. But no way to get the jasper tuned than.. So i had to decide against them for now.

Why is that? has the original wasp used a special type of ne555?
Any ideas on that topic?

Anyway..no its time to makes some sounds with this.. i will have to replace some pots at a later point anyway.. got ripped off with cheapest china trash by a specialized german music DIY supplier. By now i think its risky to use other sources than mouser or thonk for such important parts like pots and switches. As bigger the supplier as less risk for china trash fake parts

greets,
3phase




aabbcc
3phase wrote:





Hi there, thanks to Jason for this Project, was looking for wasp since many years and his board mande it quite easy to get finally get one.

I post this since i think thats good manners when doing such web born projects, and to point to a few details that might help other builders.

I run my Jasper from a USB Battery pack for mobile phones..it gives straight 5 volts, has over 2 amperes, lasts really long with the Jasper, and is rechargeable. I connect via an USB socket so the jasper can be powered from an usb hub too.

I dont like connections on the side of synths..so I placed the jacks lookin upward in the back like with the original wasp.

I used Jasons Midi board but added a midi thru circuit on a little extra board.. Synths without midi thru are a pain in the ass on stage settups and its just 2 extra transistors.. maybe an idea for future versions of that midi board?

the 6 minijacks on the right side are the ext input and ext gate.. the other 4 dont have a function yet. act as mult for now. I would like to have cv control ability..but not sure yet how to get that.. Would it be possible to update the midiboard to accept additional pitch cv input? Havent bothered to add a buffer for VCA and filter CV control yet, when ther is no pitch CV aswell.

I used a little speaker cabinet from an old laptop as speaker for the jasper.. gives less volume than the wasp style speaker, but has better lowend so its quite realistic what you hear from the speaker and can be used as little monitor for the player to hear at the synth more than makes it into the mix of a session.. therefore the speaker has an extra switch and the speaker of swith on the line out got disabled.. not the the most battery conserving way.. but that usb battery pack really lasts and lasts.. I used an LM386-1 as speaker amp since its already able to overload the laptop speakers i use here.. so some battery saving here.

Additional mods..

1) a switch that disables glide for the upper oscillator.. so when set toward the lower osc, only that osc gets the glide.

2) a switch that adds a 22uF bipolar cap in paralel to the 1 uF LFO speed cap.. makes the LFO speed significantly slower..

3) original ca3080 in the filter and vca

sounds more distorted and fatter than the 13700´s.. but teh 13700´s are not bad really..more detailed and dry actually gives better food for fx and more variance in the sound. The old ca3080 with the higher distortion cloud some differences between settings.. but i like the general character and resonance.. 2 different chips seem to add a little colour to the filter than having the way closer matched one chip lm13700 solution, which has bit tighter modulation, by that closer matching. Wasnt so easy to decide really..so when no ca3080 fly around i would suggest to forget about that.. I needed to remove the extra resistor in the vca to make the envelope closing, so back to original wasp circuit..

I also tried NE555 as source oscillators.. Her i had a more clear opinion about better or not.. I do think they sound better, more charming, somehow a little rounder, more alive. But no way to get the jasper tuned than.. So i had to decide against them for now.

Why is that? has the original wasp used a special type of ne555?
Any ideas on that topic?

Anyway..no its time to makes some sounds with this.. i will have to replace some pots at a later point anyway.. got ripped off with cheapest china trash by a specialized german music DIY supplier. By now i think its risky to use other sources than mouser or thonk for such important parts like pots and switches. As bigger the supplier as less risk for china trash fake parts

greets,
3phase






Very nice!

There is the jasperin which has midi, cv/gate smile https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=171543

Also how did you do that midi thru circuit? I'd love to add it to my jasper midi board, could just use a some perf/veroboard
3phase
aabbcc wrote:


Very nice!

There is the jasperin which has midi, cv/gate smile https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=171543

Also how did you do that midi thru circuit? I'd love to add it to my jasper midi board, could just use a some perf/veroboard


I ve seen that, but i got Jasons Board now build in, and wonder wheter such an atmel chip could mange that task too..or even a simple sequencer???
One day i ve to learn programming that things.. but too much soldering stuff already to extend my programming skills beyond sequence patching.


For the midi thru i just copied the JUNO 106 circuit for that part, from R9,R7,R8,R11,TR2 and TR3. since it appeard the easiest way to do it. But any other ic buffer based circuit will probably do too.. midi is not that fast really. I didnt bother to copy the juno 106 circuit for the 5Vollt midi line.. i will check with my anatecs if that was a mistake or not..for now its just a 220 ohm resistor to the Jasper 5V.. just like done with the midi output on that board.. My guess is that the extra roland circuit is to protect the synth from external influences via the midi power line.. which actually might be a good idea..on the other hands we are no midi beginners anymore as in the early 80´s and wouldnt connect the jasper to wonky first generation midi ports..or? ok..with modern equipment you never know.
prae
just starting on my board now as we speak. what temp did you folk use with your irons? the one at my college lab (which i have used before for many projects) seems to be melting the coating on the board a bit much. is this a problem?
belzrebuth
I've just finished building two units and I'm on my third (this is for a friend).
Both worked beautifully since first power on razz

Only thing I'm missing is the knobs.

The Cliff knobs mentioned in the Jasper Construction guide are on stock at TME.eu but I'm wondering if I've made the right choices.

I've used lorlin ck1049 switches and Alpha pots from Newtone.

For the pots I think these knobs may be appropriate:

Knob K21 Black ¼” Screw Fix
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178887/

For the switches:

Knob K21 Black 6mm Screw Fix
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cliff/ cl178884/

And for the (provided) Omeg Switches:

Knob K21 Black ¼” D shaft
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35d/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178886/

Here's a datasheet listing all the K21 knobs:
https://www.tme.eu/en/Document/19ac9a8c555915f24f138a84cfaec4ea/K21Rot aryKnob.pdf

Are my choices correct?!
Should I proceed with my knob order?
Thanks:)
duff
The 1/4” D will definitely fit the Omegs supplied by Jason if they are the same as previous batches.

For the alpha and Lorin it depends on what shaft you got as they come in 6mm & 1/4”, round or D. The 1/4” screw fit are a relatively safe option in all cases. They can be put on 6mm and D shafts, although will be fractionally less snug if on a 6mm or D. When I ran the Cliff knob group buys most people went for 1/4” screw fit across the board.
belzrebuth
The shaft diameter of the Lorlin switches is 6mm.
That's why I went for the 6mm screw fix knob.
I don't know if the 1/4" knobs will fit as tight on the 6mm shaft and the switches need a lot more force than regular potentiometers do.

The switch shaft is cylindrical so I may have to file it flat for the screw to snug in place.

Have anyone used a 1/4" knob for a 6mm shaft switch?
Is it tight enough?

The pot knobs are probably okay since they're 6.35mm and I'm going for 1/4" knobs (not D shaft though as the shafts are all-round).
duff
Sounds like your choices are correct then.
ashleym
prae wrote:
just starting on my board now as we speak. what temp did you folk use with your irons? the one at my college lab (which i have used before for many projects) seems to be melting the coating on the board a bit much. is this a problem?


Set your iron to the temperature the solder needs. Part of what you’re “melting” can be the flux or roisin from the solder. Have a google or look at reliable manufacturers sites

Wartons
MetroJuno121
belzrebuth wrote:
The shaft diameter of the Lorlin switches is 6mm.
That's why I went for the 6mm screw fix knob.
I don't know if the 1/4" knobs will fit as tight on the 6mm shaft and the switches need a lot more force than regular potentiometers do.

The switch shaft is cylindrical so I may have to file it flat for the screw to snug in place.

Have anyone used a 1/4" knob for a 6mm shaft switch?
Is it tight enough?

The pot knobs are probably okay since they're 6.35mm and I'm going for 1/4" knobs (not D shaft though as the shafts are all-round).


Yes, I used all one size screw fit knobs with no problems. No filing of the shafts, as the screw bites very well.
belzrebuth
MetroJuno121 wrote:

Yes, I used all one size screw fit knobs with no problems. No filing of the shafts, as the screw bites very well.


So you've used these https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178887/ for everything?
If this was the exact type and fit all the knobs I may go one size for all too.
MetroJuno121
belzrebuth wrote:
MetroJuno121 wrote:

Yes, I used all one size screw fit knobs with no problems. No filing of the shafts, as the screw bites very well.


So you've used these https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35s/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178887/ for everything?
If this was the exact type and fit all the knobs I may go one size for all too.


Yes, 27 of them K21-6.35S and 30 (min order) yellow caps K21-YELLOW-L

belzrebuth
Very nice case!

My knobs arrived earlier today.
They fit nicely when screwed.

There is only issue with the Omeg switch knobs I got.
https://www.tme.eu/en/details/k21-6.35d/shaft-potentiometers-knobs/cli ff/cl178886/

Since they fit only in one way (D-shaft) I can't seem to get the cap marking to align perfectly with the panel marking; it's marginal but still annoying.

I think I should've gone with the same type of knob throughout the whole board as suggested.
The rotary switches may be better with the 6mm variant though.
I may get some 6mm knobs to verify it.

Another issue that I just noticed is than when I plug my headphones I only get sound from one channel (with the jack pushed all the way in).
When the jack is 2/3 in I get both channels..

I have a similar issue with the line out too..
When I plugged a 3.5mm mono jack to 6.35mm jack all I got was hum and intermittent audio.
I ended up using a trs minijack to a mono 6.35 jack.
I shorted the third conductor (ring) to the sleeve on the minijack both going to the sleeve of the 6.35 jack.
Wracked with Guilt
Just finished my Jasper, powered it up and blimey, it sounds exactly like my original EDP Wasp. This was my first DIY project so many we're not worthy Jason for all the love and care he'd put into the project resulting in a relatively painless and trouble free experience.

Now the only question remains what knobs have our American/Canadian builders used for their Jaspers?

I've yet to find anything suitable this side of the Atlantic and I don't really fancy ordering from the UK/EU when Canadian customs held my last Thonk package for 3 weeks.

Thanks in advance Guinness ftw!
belzrebuth
Can one use this type of rotary switch

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/ro tary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-6-position-alpha-sr2511-3595-3586.htm l

side cutting the legs accordingly to fit the fit the pcb?

I've got one more jasper coming and I'm trying to avoid the cost of Lorlin switches..
duff
belzrebuth wrote:
Can one use this type of rotary switch

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/electromechanical/switches-key-pad/ro tary-switch/rotary-switch-2-pole-6-position-alpha-sr2511-3595-3586.htm l

side cutting the legs accordingly to fit the fit the pcb?

I've got one more jasper coming and I'm trying to avoid the cost of Lorlin switches..


I know the Alphas in the BOM work and I picked them up for much less than the Lorins - https://www.rapidonline.com/taiwan-alpha-sr2612020638f5bd-make-before- break-2-pole-6w-pcb-rotary-switch-79-0205

Looking at the data sheets shows that the model stocked by Tayda has its pins in smaller diameter rings - for example 22 mm vs 19.98 for the outer ring. So you might be able to make it work, but it won’t just slot in with the legs chopped.
belzrebuth
The Alphas you've linked are indeed much cheaper but rapid's shipping and handling cost is ridiculous..
The switches cost 6.5€ and the total order cost after VAT and P&P is 38.5€. woah
Τhere are slightly cheaper alternatives to the Lorlin switches; the ones that really look like them but I don't know what their brand is.
It doesn't really worth it though as the price is really close.
tommy.york
Feels like I have the VCA envelope working, but I don't have control over the filter via the pot or envelope, though the LFO works a bit. The end result is that the HP works, but is always fully open, and that the LP sounds like it is filter at like 50hz or something. Just sub frequencies. Any guesses as to what's going on?

(Attaching the following picture because the resized picture shows up without detail).
Europa313
Got a 2 builds here

1 has got the filter/res that doesn't self oscilliate clean. High pitched self-oscilliation sounds grainy/noisy. Help

The vca enveloppe repeat that repeats but there are some rests.its not steady, kinda shuffle (?) Help

The other build plays a single octave from the keyboard. All other keys sound the same note
Help
Gtrgeek1
Hey all, Before I chop the keyboard off and turn this kit into a rackmount, has anyone tried this or experienced any problems? I only use a MIDI controller/Sequencer. I am not cutting down my completed unit, I purchased another kit to hopefully cut down.

Thx!
belzrebuth
I've built a metal (iron) case for my jasper wasp..
Forum member chrisp designed and constructed the end product.
I think it looks good.
It weighs about 4Kgs.
It has 1/4" jacks for the output, phones and ext in in the back.
The empty hole is for the midi channel pushbutton.

I may be able to make arrangements for a limited number of cases for anyone interested; aluminum is also an option if weight is a concern but it will raise the cost significantly..

PM for details..
(keyboard screws were not attached when I took the photos but there are holes to mount 5mm spacers and nuts to accomodate the two kbd screws)


https://ibb.co/hn9XfL
https://ibb.co/kBYQ0L
https://ibb.co/mf2Dn0
https://ibb.co/kCBv0L
https://ibb.co/eeNw70
https://ibb.co/b6acEf
https://ibb.co/gwdsfL
https://ibb.co/dWoVZf
https://ibb.co/hfOVZf
oblongcat
Help please,

Everything works as it should, except I have some sort of ground issue (perhaps?!).

When using the keyboard the pitch becomes unstable, especially for the lower frequency keys (it randomly jumps all over the place). However, when I put my finger on the top right ground point (or any other ground point), the problem goes away and it works fine.

Other information: it seems to operate fine when using hold (i.e. not using the keyboard). Also it behave a lot better (although maybe not quite perfect) when operating from batteries.

Please could someone with more electronics knowledge point me in the right direction of what might be going on? seriously, i just don't get it
theboytheycalljonny
Hey folks

Just finished a Jasper build and thought I'd share what i used for a case.

It's literally an old readers digest 'Learn Italian' cassette series box and it fits perfectly! It cost me £3 in a charity shop. They're on eBay for about £15.

All i had to do is drill a load of holes for the power, ins and outs etc. I used standoffs to raise the PCB up a little.

Here's a picture


Here's a link to eBay for the same type of case

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Readers-Digest-At-Home-with-French-Pimsleur -Programmed-Learning-Tapes-Course/142943459815?hash=item21481819e7:g:3 C8AAOSwkllboOh3:rk:5:pf:0
Bamboombaps
Hey all trying to resurrect a sickly build.

Here's some issues-
When turning on it starts off silent and sound gradually build over about 4mins
When the vca env is switched it goes very quiet . I can still hear the ticking if the control env. Section and the other sections way in the background
Constant sound. It thinks a key is constantly depressed.
Keyboard erratic. No amount of messing with the sensitivity seems to get the lower quarter of the keyboard to function at all.

help
balbibou
During the calibration process of 'VCO separation trimmer' (page 40/41) it is asked to 'Turn the Bend control fully clockwise. If the oscillators start to beat more quickly or more slowly, then adjust the trimmer to get the slow beating again.'
Well for me just by touching or brushing the rotary part/case of the osc 2 pitch pot it changes this beating effect. Is it a ground issue ? What should I look for ?
johnnym
I’ve just started my build on this and looking at the v2 construction guide it clearly shows a space for a cap between R128 and IC33 unpopulated at the bottom of page 10 which assumed would be for a 0.1uf cap. Then on the bottom 11 it shows it populated with something. I’ve already got all 38 0.1uf caps in place so what goes here? seriously, i just don't get it
duff
johnnym wrote:
I’ve just started my build on this and looking at the v2 construction guide it clearly shows a space for a cap between R128 and IC33 unpopulated at the bottom of page 10 which assumed would be for a 0.1uf cap. Then on the bottom 11 it shows it populated with something. I’ve already got all 38 0.1uf caps in place so what goes here? seriously, i just don't get it


That is a 0.1uf decoupling cap.
johnnym
duff wrote:


That is a 0.1uf decoupling cap.


Thanks, so the BOM should say 39 caps for this then? I’ve double checked I’ve not got any of the other ceramic caps in the wrong place and all looks OK there.
duff
johnnym wrote:
duff wrote:


That is a 0.1uf decoupling cap.


Thanks, so the BOM should say 39 caps for this then? I’ve double checked I’ve not got any of the other ceramic caps in the wrong place and all looks OK there.


Yeah, pretty sure you need 39 0.1 uf caps and the BOM was one short orignally - although it has been a lot time since I built mine and there have been a few PCB revisions since then. I thought Jason had updated the BOM, but perhaps not.
johnnym
duff wrote:

Yeah, pretty sure you need 39 0.1 uf caps and the BOM was one short orignally - although it has been a lot time since I built mine and there have been a few PCB revisions since then. I thought Jason had updated the BOM, but perhaps not.


Great, thanks for your help
duff
balbibou wrote:
During the calibration process of 'VCO separation trimmer' (page 40/41) it is asked to 'Turn the Bend control fully clockwise. If the oscillators start to beat more quickly or more slowly, then adjust the trimmer to get the slow beating again.'
Well for me just by touching or brushing the rotary part/case of the osc 2 pitch pot it changes this beating effect. Is it a ground issue ? What should I look for ?


The case/bodyof the pot should be isolated from the pins so touching or brushing it should have no effect. Could you have a defective pot?
balbibou
Quote:
The case/bodyof the pot should be isolated from the pins so touching or brushing it should have no effect. Could you have a defective pot?


Ordered one yesterday. This is the only thing that comes to my mind as I don't have electronic knowledge.
adrien-19
Hello everyone,

I write on this forum because I just finished my jasper, and I have a problem with the control env. , here are videos of my problem:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvqxhwOusdg&list=UUAhHM201ptTWIYE3wStW PHw

and the second with a MIDI input (which confirms that the problem of not coming from the keyboard)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuB38ilu1HQ&list=UUAhHM201ptTWIYE3wStW PHw&index=1

Randomly the envelope activates twice in succession. There is surely a problem in the detection of the note, maybe it is an IC that does not work well.

Maybe it's normal, but I have doubts. I wanted to know if any of you can tell me which parts I should resoldering or which IC I should change.

 Thank you in advance !
sixbyseven
I built a wooden box with one end open, then used 19" rack drawer slides to install the Jasper into one of my synth racks. The midi, power and audio outs are all wired off the back.

It is actually very useable in the configuration, and makes it easier to orchestrate with other synths manually or through midi.

Callockard
Hi, Anyone else notice the resonance seems (sounds) like it has a higher value when set to zero? In other words, filter has some resonance when Q is set to zero...
paddodust
Hi..everyone

First post so be Kind hihi

Ok so I built myself a jasper and powered it on... everything works as it should, but the keyboard is giving off wierd vibes!!
I seem to get the 3 octaves on the board to be correct audiowise but the semitones in between do nothing.. That is to say.. only a few notes play and the rest are dead.
I figure it must be something to do with the note decoding, but I can't figure it out from the drawings
very frustrating
Checked my sockets and soldering and all looks ok.. I did run over all of them with a magnifying glass to determine if I missed a pin or there was a bridge.. but nada..

Much Love to anyone who's got any insight...

Patrick
Bodo1967
It's been a while since I built mine, but I do remember there are quite a few test points where you're supposed to check voltages. Iirc, those can be found in the original WASP service manual, which can be used for the Jasper as well.

Are these voltages alright in yours?

If not, or if you haven't checked them yet, that might be a goood point to start.

I also had a problem at first - mine only played one octave but did so twice (as in, jumped from middle B to low C instead of middle C when playing the notes in an upward order, then repeated the lower octave). Turned out to be a small solder blob on the bottom side of the PCB where the ribbon cable is connected.
mightymike1978
Thanx, great idea!!!

Please show us a picture of it, if you got any! ;-)

Best regards
Mighty

theboytheycalljonny wrote:
Hey folks

Just finished a Jasper build and thought I'd share what i used for a case.

It's literally an old readers digest 'Learn Italian' cassette series box and it fits perfectly! It cost me £3 in a charity shop. They're on eBay for about £15.

All i had to do is drill a load of holes for the power, ins and outs etc. I used standoffs to raise the PCB up a little.

Here's a picture


Here's a link to eBay for the same type of case

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Readers-Digest-At-Home-with-French-Pimsleur -Programmed-Learning-Tapes-Course/142943459815?hash=item21481819e7:g:3 C8AAOSwkllboOh3:rk:5:pf:0
hox3d
Hey team.

I wanted to build a Jasper just to make a wooden case.
Since I don't really trust my skill to make such a thing, I decided to reduce the risk by modeling it prior to do it.

So, here is the thing:


I must say I just learned Blender just for that one.
That's a little bit overkill but yeah, I could learn something.
It's not perfect, it's missing switches and screws... But that's enough for my purposes.

Let me know what you think of it!
jersupereq
Beautiful! we're not worthy
devinw1
hox3d looks good, but maybe my eyes deceive me but the front lip is protruding beyond the plane of the key suface? If so, I would make it flush or even down maybe .03"-05" so it's not a hindrance to play.
hox3d
It's supposed to be right at the same level, the picture is not that clear indeed... The two models are so close that you can't see any gap in-between.
But yeah, maybe a small angle to add "access" to the keys?

It's not a perfect model ahah. I tried my best but at some point it was like "well, I can't see it, let's forget about this detail".
For instance, I wanted to make all corners a little bit more "roundish".
makhho
Looks good indeed, hox3d. IF you do happen to do a run of these, then I'd be interested in one.

How thick would the back of the case be? Curious because I'd likely drill holes to accommodate Jason's MIDI board design.
kragg
makhho wrote:
It is strange because everything functionally seems to be working, only problem is that I must have the volume on the JASPER and mixer/monitors jacked really high.

Noise, different oscillator shapes, FT", Q / FILTER, LFO waveform, etc. all seem to be working, I just have to boost the hell out of the signal to hear anything.

Looked over caps and resistor values near the line out and phones, and nothing looks wrong... seriously, i just don't get it

EDIT -- FIXED. Wow -- completely spaced out on the external trigger mod.

I wasn't getting line out from the minijack socket because I didn't have a header bridging the T to S on the external mod. Ugh. Okay.
If anyone runs into this issue hopefully this helps.

Thank you , this helped me indeed thumbs up
bujbot1
Hey,

Just finished my build. Went really well and I love the sound of this thing!

Like others here I noticed more noise than I wanted out of the "phones" jack. Here's what I did to fix it:

Regulated the power supply in. I had a slight hum that I didn't like on the phones jack. I didn't want to touch the Jasper internally so I made a 9v regulator with filter caps as a dongle. That cleaned the hum and some of the other noise.

I turned the LM386 amplifier down a bit. It sounded like it was picking up some high freq logic noise and was excessively loud. So I solder 6k resistor from input to ground on the chip itself (didn't want to touch the jasper internals again).

Now the phones jack is clean and hotter than the line out (though only by about 50-75%). The speaker is probably a touch quieter than I would like. If I did it again I would likely use 10-15kohms instead which would make the amp a bit louder.

Maybe this will help someone, I dunno! Either way, thank you jasonl, this is incredible all around!
grizzle
Hey all,

The build guide says to solder in TR1 and TR2 bent over flush against the PCB to avoid any shorts but I noticed both transistors have been moved on the latest PCB. Do they still need to be installed bent flush or can they be soldered in without bending the legs now?

Cheers,
Alex
gslug
Got mine built and it all seemed so easy.... but I have filter problems. I only get an output on Notch or High Pass. Low and Band Pass are (almost) silent. I've had a look at the Wasp service manual and seen that this can be symptomatic of oscillator 1 not working as it provides the keyboard voltage, but oscillator 1 is working in my case and I'm getting around 0.6V on pin 13 of IC 12. Any ideas?

Scratch that. After much poking around with a scope it turns out I've got a duff rotary switch. That's going to be fun to desolder....
goodrevdoc
I had a bad filter rotary also. Was a bit of a pain to swap, but fixed it right away.
Just pulled the trigger on the noise and XOR mod boards. My question is, where are you guys drilling the hole for the noise switch? Ideally id like to go just above the noise pot, along the line that connects the osc and the external in pot. A few resistors under there, but not a big deal. Any thoughts?
goodrevdoc
Also, got my mod boards all built and wired and realized i didnt have a 4070. Subbed a 4093 instead. Not bad, fairly close to the demo vids. then i found this:
https://electronicsclub.info/cmos.htm
if you scroll down to the first picture, there are several different logic functions with the same pinout. Gonna have to try a few and see...
gslug
goodrevdoc wrote:
I had a bad filter rotary also. Was a bit of a pain to swap, but fixed it right away.


I've got a vacuum desoldering station and it still didn't want to come out - the pins are tight. Ended up dismantling the switch in situ and pulling the pins one by one.
goodrevdoc
gslug wrote:
goodrevdoc wrote:
I had a bad filter rotary also. Was a bit of a pain to swap, but fixed it right away.


I've got a vacuum desoldering station and it still didn't want to come out - the pins are tight. Ended up dismantling the switch in situ and pulling the pins one by one.


Yeah i had to do something similar. I bought the alphas from mouser and replaced with the same. If i build another, im definitely going to try the other kind, Lorlin maybe?
unauthorised-service
First of two I built. Scavenged oak case was the hardest . Im more used to fitting hardware to case , not the other way round . Had to get about six new wood drill bits , large ones for to make way recesses and whatnot for sockets .a few measurement failures had to be scrapped. d'oh!

relggiwffum
grizzle wrote:
Hey all,

The build guide says to solder in TR1 and TR2 bent over flush against the PCB to avoid any shorts but I noticed both transistors have been moved on the latest PCB. Do they still need to be installed bent flush or can they be soldered in without bending the legs now?

Cheers,
Alex


We have the same issue here:



Anyone knows how to do it?
TIA
aabbcc
Does not have to be bent down, just install as usual, build guide has not been updated.
makhho
Build guide is late on an update; no need to bend, proceed as instructed.
Robber40
Hi! I just want to share my 3D printed case. It's printed on a Prusa I3 MK3 in several parts and afterwards glued together.









Sunshine Jones
I'm late to this party, but I've just about finished my build and am really enjoying how the Jasper sounds.

I have a question about the HOLD switch:

I wanted to use Hold Switch 1 and wired up the switch from the 2.2 BOM (Miniature Toggle Switch SPST ) as follows:



It doesn't seem to do anything. It is connected as illustrated here between the switch and a MTA-100 connector which fits onto a header. The wires show connection, so I believe they're ok. I have also checked to be sure I've connected it to HOLD 1 (and not hold 2.)

I assumed that this mod would allow for whatever note is played on the keyboard to be held, and it would sustain... This isn't happening.

Have I bungled the wiring? Or completely misunderstood something? Perhaps both?

Anyone else had trouble with the hold switch?
unauthorised-service
[quote="Sunshine Jones"]I'm late to this party, but I've just about finished my build and am really enjoying how the Jasper sounds.

I have a question about the HOLD switch:

Without checking the manual or ripping mine apart"again" , Ive built 2 by the way.
I have used both hold variants . Ive just checked on the machine itself. One mode should hold on a key press , the other should hold repeated triggers but only if repeat /sustain is clicked into repeat mode.
ISOTROPOSPHERE
I am not getting the VCA envelope to repeat, all else works correctly. Hold switch is wired to both hold functions and works correct for each Hold function. The 0meg pot for the VCA repeat/ sustain does not appear to be working. I can hear the VCA get to the sustain stage and there is a volume change before it goes into the decay stage as if there is no value for the sustain stage. NO repeat function when the VCA pot is in that position and the hold switch is engaged to Hold one. I will be checking the pot solder points tonight for the VCA.

Can someone help me out here with this problem and where else I might look on the board to solve this issue?
unauthorised-service
ISOTROPOSPHERE wrote:


Can someone help me out here with this problem and where else I might look on the board to solve this issue?


You definitely have clicked fully ccw to repeat mode?
Have you checked page nine component configuration notes R 172 and diode ?
Robber40
Attached some photos of my slightly changed design of the Jasper enclosure that it slides into a desktop stand. More information and STL files on https://www.spillerphoto.com



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