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Ibanez ue 405 mod
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Ibanez ue 405 mod
drowld
I was wondering how hard would it be to mod the ibanez ue 405 to have toggle switch in the front panel for the individual items on the foot controller ?
The foot controller isnt really usefull for me and i would rather on/off the effect with a switch to toggle on the front panel.
But i'm a newb in diy soo i need your help
Here's the schematicz
http://www.ibanezcollectors.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18397/UE400_SV C__pg_08x.jpg

Doesnt look too hard but i may be thinking wrong This is fun!
Stancotey
This is the UE400 diagram - different effects than the 405, but I think the footswitches are the same so this will work for your purposes. You can add manual switches fairly easily. Here's what you might try:

Get five 20k 1/4w resistors. (1/2w is fine but may be too large to easily work with.) Connect one end of each of them to pin 6 on the back of the fooswitch connector. You will now have five resistors soldered to pin 6 and the other end of each hanging free. Connect the other end of each resistor to pins 1-5 such that pin 1 has a resistor to pin 6, pin 2 has a resistor to pin 6, and so on.

Next, get four SPST latching switches (or SPDT or DPDT for that matter - you only need to close a contact) and wire them so that they connect pins 1-4 to pin 7 (ground). Pin 1 gets a switch, pin 2 gets one, and so on. You can get a fifth switch and connect it between pin 5 and ground if you want an overall bypass, or you can leave that switch out (but keep its resistor) if you don't need to bypass everything at once.

The switch connecting pin1 to ground will control the first effect, pin 2's switch will control the second, and so on. When the switch contact is open (what you might think of as off), the effect will be on.

I did this on my 400 and it works great (I use an external switcher rather than toggle switches but the same idea applies).

Questions welcome and good luck.

Stan
drowld
Thanks for the infos !
Just wrote it down i'll try to do this and i'll get back to you when it's done we're not worthy
drowld
There is 8 pin on my connector and 2 of them are directly connected to the board really close (7&8) Not sure what they are here for. (i will upload a picture)

I've got theses
http://www.mouser.ch/ProductDetail/Yageo/MFR-25FRF52-20K/?qs=5furm%2fe QHzR2I8cWrDhl%2fw%3d%3d

But not sure which latching switch i need to buy. I would love some similar switch as the one user for the power button

Or maybe some really small so i can put them all together under the "instapatch" of the chorus"

Do you think it's hard to add a dry wet to the chorus ?
Im searching and i don't even get if it's doable Dead Banana
drowld
I wanted to put them where a knob is missing in the chorus section



EATyourGUITAR
you just need to sink the effect remote pin to ground for each effect. ibanez uses a 10k resistor and a 10k resistor divider stacked on top of one of the transistors in the duplicated bistable multivibrator transistor circuit. there is one of these muting or remote switching each effect and also driving each LED. I could not find exactly where the remote pins go but I can confirm they are sinking down to half the supply 15v/2 = 7.5v. not factoring in the voltage drop for the transistor in the bistable multivibrator that would be very small anyway. my guess is there are relays or FET switching somewhere taking a 15v ON 7.5v OFF remote signal. the ON = HIGH, OFF = LOW might be reversed so double check how it functions. try probing one of the remote pins for voltage while it is powered and switching. two of the pins in the foot harness are just power so don't bother with those.

after all that you can probably make a front panel control easy just use two 10k resistors for each switch. center tap the divider for the remote wire, then wire the switch to ground the bottom of the resistor divider. the top of the voltage divider goes to +15v. when the switch is disconnected the bottom resistor is float, the top resistor supplies 15v to the remote.
EATyourGUITAR
also, there is a modification you can do that makes this easier or maybe not eh? if you put some flipflop IC (CD4013) inside the unit and rewire it you can just have an empty footswitch and scrap the footswitch board. you can decide if you want buttons or switches on the front panel but you would need to retrofit momentary footswitches if you do choose buttons. switches are easier if you want to keep the LED in the footswitch but you still want to modernize it. there is a marshall footswitch wiring that can sense when the LED is grounded and therefor the remote wire powers the LED on just one wire. it is power in one direction and remote control in the other direction! you can build it. just do the research. it would be a huge project to explain this all in detail with pictures and links. you can google eatyourguitar marshall footswitch maybe that has something. or just read schematics on the internet.
drowld
EATyourGUITAR wrote:
you just need to sink the effect remote pin to ground for each effect. ibanez uses a 10k resistor and a 10k resistor divider stacked on top of one of the transistors in the duplicated bistable multivibrator transistor circuit. there is one of these muting or remote switching each effect and also driving each LED. I could not find exactly where the remote pins go but I can confirm they are sinking down to half the supply 15v/2 = 7.5v. not factoring in the voltage drop for the transistor in the bistable multivibrator that would be very small anyway. my guess is there are relays or FET switching somewhere taking a 15v ON 7.5v OFF remote signal. the ON = HIGH, OFF = LOW might be reversed so double check how it functions. try probing one of the remote pins for voltage while it is powered and switching. two of the pins in the foot harness are just power so don't bother with those.

after all that you can probably make a front panel control easy just use two 10k resistors for each switch. center tap the divider for the remote wire, then wire the switch to ground the bottom of the resistor divider. the top of the voltage divider goes to +15v. when the switch is disconnected the bottom resistor is float, the top resistor supplies 15v to the remote.


Damn it looked easier before your post. Now i don't think i get it at all.
I'm not english native so it's even harder Dead Banana
I need to find some help around from an electronician.

I just thought i had to put 5 resistance and cable them to a latching switch on the front and here we go. But dang MY ASS IS BLEEDING

I ordered a book about electronics maybe i'll help me too
Thanks for the info tho. You make me reconsider how hard it is so i just dont dive in and broke my unit w00t
makhho
Did you ever get these individual switch mods to work?
makhho
Actually interested in individual I/O for each effect on the ue400/405 units too

Found a french blog where someone was floating the idea

http://forum.anafrog.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=14028

Hard to follow, but it appeared that they ran into issues.

It would be nice to have cutout jacks for each effect so that I can have patch flexibility with this unit.

Based on the schematic, can anyone here make an educated guess as to where the input and output signals can be tapped?

EDIT: They had their I/O placement wired backwards. It looks like tapping the signal at the caps works -- going to try this on one of the effects and report back later.
nologin
makhho wrote:
Actually interested in individual I/O for each effect on the ue400/405 units too

Found a french blog where someone was floating the idea

http://forum.anafrog.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=14028

Hard to follow, but it appeared that they ran into issues.

It would be nice to have cutout jacks for each effect so that I can have patch flexibility with this unit.

Based on the schematic, can anyone here make an educated guess as to where the input and output signals can be tapped?

EDIT: They had their I/O placement wired backwards. It looks like tapping the signal at the caps works -- going to try this on one of the effects and report back later.


Hi, i'm diplodocus303 on FR forum.
The separate outputs mod, works, but there is a loss of volume because it not go through the AOP output mixer's. To make the mod, i had used jack socket, using the "mechanical" cut of the sockets, so that when pushing the male jacks into the socket, the signal is diverted. The inputs of the effects are in red on the schematic and the outputs in blue. (Sorry it's written in French):

nologin
On the other hand, i remember that i had cut 8 traces and that in case of use in separate audio outputs, each effect was usable indebably and not routing between them. No insta patch function, but patch by câble.
nologin
I just bought 100 € a UE400, but it misses the switch pedal, I will have to mod it. I modified an other a few years ago, I had installed separate I/O, i had a demo, but it's not a demo of great musicality, it was just to show to a friend that it ran:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVJrA8mFyRA

Sorry it's in French because i speak English very badly. That the "frenglish".

I will try with the one i just bought, install mini jack with possibility to route the mixer module.
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