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ornaments+crimes extended / polymorphic 4x16bit CV generator
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 91, 92, 93 ... 96, 97, 98  Next [all]
Author ornaments+crimes extended / polymorphic 4x16bit CV generator
brycecake
Guuuuuuuuys........ I know there's a gajillion people who have said this already...
.....but my outputs are stuck at 6.25. I have reflowed everything several times, my reference voltages are all good... I have checked the dac to the best of my abilities with a continuity tester and it seems to be connected to the teensy properly. I've checked it with a magnifying glass and at this point, it pretty much has the best lookin' solder joints on the whole board, so I don't wanna think its a bridge there. I've read so many pages of this, and I know all clues point to the dac.
What I'm really getting at here is... How possible is it that I fried my dac? Its my first time soldering smd so of course I did an awful job. But I also struggled with REALLY bad cheap solder wick and I worry I may have gotten it too hot at that point. And how could I check that? I mean it has the ref voltage so it has at least some life left in it. HAAAALP ME IM FRUSTRATED very frustrating
sduck
A good photo might help troubleshoot...
brycecake
Right... I guess I just felt like if you saw this you would be like "dude that things fucked." Which I guess it might be. The pcb that is... One second, I'll post a picture.
Timmy
sduck wrote:
A good photo might help troubleshoot...


Yes indeed. Photos in as high a resolution and as up-close as your phone can manage, in good light, of every part of both sides of the board please, and upload to DropBox or Google Drive or PhotoBucket or some such - don't just post them here because they will be downsampled and become blurry.
brycecake
I guess I ordered a few (lot) of the wrong sized stuff... the transistors and that 5v regulator in particular... I've made many botch jobs work before though....

Pins 14 and 15 are bridged on the dac, that's intentional. They're both supposed to go to ground as per the schematic, and as you can see, I fucked this pcb up. Idk. I'm an idiot. I thought I could scrape away tiny bridges. I know. Stupid. Please don't rub it in guys.

But as I mentioned, I've been poking and prodding at this thing with a multimeter, and as far as I can tell, shockingly, the dac pins are still making contact with the correct teensy pins.







just break it to me easy.... i have to start over don't I? :(
brycecake
Shit I just did what you said not to do.... my camera isn't very good anyways though... just a crappy phone camera confused should I reupload them via dropbox?
mxmxmx
brycecake wrote:
Guuuuuuuuys........ I know there's a gajillion people who have said this already...
.....but my outputs are stuck at 6.25. I have reflowed everything several times, my reference voltages are all good...


from http://ornament-and-cri.me/build-it/#trouble-shooting

Quote:
all outputs are stuck at ~ 6.25V: in this case, communication with the DAC typically isn’t working properly. double check (reflow) the SPI signals from the teensy to the DAC; that’s DAC pins 9, 10, 11 in particular (also double-check DAC pins 13 - 16).


that's what i'd focus on, or else start from scratch and work more carefully. that said, if you get 6.25V at the outputs, chances are the op amps actually do what they are supposed to do, which leaves the DAC.
brycecake
Yeah, i guess I ultimately was just wondering how likely is it that my dac is toast? Everything else works fine so its hard for me to justify just throwing this populated board away and starting over. Like i said, I've made many botch jobs work in the past and im not opposed to using my friend's hot air station and plopping a new dac on there, but of course it had to be the $15 ic that I'm unsure about.

When i was looking for bridges, i noticed pins 10 and 11 of the dac show 10k resistance between each other. Idk if thats normal, sorta was the first thing that made me wonder if I broke it.

The more i read my own responses the more I'm like "dude... You just need to start over." Sigh. Thanks guys


*****EDIT**** it was in fact a fried dac. Replaced. Works perfect. Thanks for making this open source. Let the hours of fun ensue! nanners
amir
mxmxmx wrote:
amir wrote:

I was running v1.3.3b, the one that was released just before this one. It was working fine on that. By unipolar I meant I have the resistors setup for 0-10v cv based on the build docs. Changed them while I was on the previous firmware and everything was working correctly.

I was in a rush when I messed with it but it was showing a 5v output on my mm, just wouldn't trigger any envelopes, tried it on a few different modules as well. I believe it was locking on 5v and not dropping back down but need to retest to confirm that.


the "unipolar" mod isn't supported in the firmware; that's advice only on how that *would* be done on the hardware side. to make it work, you'll have to change the firmware, too. not a big deal, it's just that so far no one has asked for it.

v1.3.4 has some new things in there to support the Buchla Easel card, so my guess is that might be causing things to no longer work, ie your triggers/gates probably never go down to 0.000V but rather sit at 3.000V (which corresponds to "0V" when using the default output range). you could try to compile with #define BUCHLA_4U (see OC_options.h); that should work, only the display will say "1.2V" instead of "1.0V" (chances are, the inputs/display won't work 100%, unless you've modded the input range, too; that's because the Buchla stuff assumes 0-10V for both inputs and outputs).


I finally had a chance to compile the code with #define BUCHLA_4U and the gates started working again. However, when I try to calibrate now it does say 1.2V and other values seem to be off as well. Is it safe to assume this time that it will output correct values and just have incorrect values on the display during calibration only? or will it be setup for actual 1.2v/oct? thanks!
sduck
Brycecake - in the last photo there's a very obvious short between 2 legs of the DAC. Perhaps when you replaced it you got it on without a similar problem. You've also got what look like cold solders all over the place, but if it works, it works - but keep in mind that cold solders often work for a while, then stop, so if you have problems in the future reflowing the solder points in general might be a fix.
jimfowler
Brycecake - I’d like to submit a bit of unsolicited advice: brush up on your smd skills. You need WAY less solder for these parts. Clean work will invariably result in fewer devices that require troubleshooting.
emmaker
jimfowler wrote:
Brycecake - I’d like to submit a bit of unsolicited advice: brush up on your smd skills. You need WAY less solder for these parts. Clean work will invariably result in fewer devices that require troubleshooting.


Yep, small tip, thin solder (0.015") and flux.
Jaypee
Can O_C accept multiple clocks? (like clock 1 into trig 1, clock 2 into trig 2 etc)
Sammus
Jaypee wrote:
Can O_C accept multiple clocks? (like clock 1 into trig 1, clock 2 into trig 2 etc)


Check manual, TR inputs vary depending on app. http://ornament-and-cri.me/user-manual-v1_3/
mxmxmx
amir wrote:
mxmxmx wrote:
amir wrote:

I was running v1.3.3b, the one that was released just before this one. It was working fine on that. By unipolar I meant I have the resistors setup for 0-10v cv based on the build docs. Changed them while I was on the previous firmware and everything was working correctly.

I was in a rush when I messed with it but it was showing a 5v output on my mm, just wouldn't trigger any envelopes, tried it on a few different modules as well. I believe it was locking on 5v and not dropping back down but need to retest to confirm that.


the "unipolar" mod isn't supported in the firmware; that's advice only on how that *would* be done on the hardware side. to make it work, you'll have to change the firmware, too. not a big deal, it's just that so far no one has asked for it.

v1.3.4 has some new things in there to support the Buchla Easel card, so my guess is that might be causing things to no longer work, ie your triggers/gates probably never go down to 0.000V but rather sit at 3.000V (which corresponds to "0V" when using the default output range). you could try to compile with #define BUCHLA_4U (see OC_options.h); that should work, only the display will say "1.2V" instead of "1.0V" (chances are, the inputs/display won't work 100%, unless you've modded the input range, too; that's because the Buchla stuff assumes 0-10V for both inputs and outputs).


I finally had a chance to compile the code with #define BUCHLA_4U and the gates started working again. However, when I try to calibrate now it does say 1.2V and other values seem to be off as well. Is it safe to assume this time that it will output correct values and just have incorrect values on the display during calibration only? or will it be setup for actual 1.2v/oct? thanks!


ok, so that was that. as i said, the display will say "1.2V"; the scaling (in the Buchla adaptions) is done in hardware, so it'll still be 1.0V/oct when using with the eurorack version.

everything else i *think* (i've never tried) should work ok. if you wanted to adjust the display-values, too, search the github for what BUCHLA_4U is doing. specifically, take a look at: OC_calibration.ino, OC_autotuner.h ... that should be it.

(or try with this: https://github.com/mxmxmx/O_C/tree/1.3.5dev -- and uncomment #define IO_10V ... let me know if that works?)
brycecake
sduck wrote:
Brycecake - in the last photo there's a very obvious short between 2 legs of the DAC. Perhaps when you replaced it you got it on without a similar problem. You've also got what look like cold solders all over the place, but if it works, it works - but keep in mind that cold solders often work for a while, then stop, so if you have problems in the future reflowing the solder points in general might be a fix.


Clearly mentioned the short on the dac in my post. The part where I said "Pins 14 and 15 are bridged on the dac, that's intentional."
sduck
Sorry, must have scrolled past that while looking at your pictures.
RupertDIY
Does anyone have a Mouser cart with updated components? I see that a few are out of stock.
Sammus
I think all ceramic caps are out of stock at the major stockists worldwide. It's a major issue affecting a lot of manufacturers.
RupertDIY
Sammus wrote:
I think all ceramic caps are out of stock at the major stockists worldwide. It's a major issue affecting a lot of manufacturers.


Between that and the new tariff, that makes this American DIY'er very sad.
Sammus
RupertDIY wrote:
Sammus wrote:
I think all ceramic caps are out of stock at the major stockists worldwide. It's a major issue affecting a lot of manufacturers.


Between that and the new tariff, that makes this American DIY'er very sad.


New tariff in the US too? Here in Australia they're introducing a new import tax for low value (less than $1k) imports, will add 10-15% to everything. No good!
keninverse
@Brycecake...those headers aren't meant for that pcb and if you had to use any force when loading the board before soldering then it's possible it damaged the pcb or that it wasn't soldered properly.
RupertDIY
Sammus wrote:
RupertDIY wrote:
Sammus wrote:
I think all ceramic caps are out of stock at the major stockists worldwide. It's a major issue affecting a lot of manufacturers.


Between that and the new tariff, that makes this American DIY'er very sad.


New tariff in the US too? Here in Australia they're introducing a new import tax for low value (less than $1k) imports, will add 10-15% to everything. No good!


yes unfortunately, looking like 25% on components....

https://www.theverge.com/2018/6/15/17467864/china-tariff-trade-war-tru mp-white-house
Mikro93
Hi everyone,

I didnt get the expected results with a forum search, I hope this question is not too noobie:

When performing a long press on a button or encoder, I would expect the long press to occur as soon as the long press time is reached, and not waiting until the push button is released.

Is this by design? Is there a way to change this behaviour? I don't think there's anything appropriate in the calibration procedure, is there?

Hope I'm being clear smile

Cheers
pld
Mikro93 wrote:
Hi everyone,

I didnt get the expected results with a forum search, I hope this question is not too noobie:

When performing a long press on a button or encoder, I would expect the long press to occur as soon as the long press time is reached, and not waiting until the push button is released.

Is this by design? Is there a way to change this behaviour? I don't think there's anything appropriate in the calibration procedure, is there?

Hope I'm being clear smile

Cheers

It's mostly by design. There's always some trade-offs when trying to cover all the different possible actions a button can have (click, double-click, long-press, hold & repeat, hold & other action) because there are ambiguous states. The main reason why it probably won't be changed now is that there is at least one situation where the long-press of an encoder is used, but the same encoder can be held while the other is turned (scale editor), so it'd end up with more special casing.

But if you don't care about the boundary cases or side-effects: dangling PR.
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