MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

5U panel help
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author 5U panel help
haricots
Could some kind person take look at my FPD panel and let me know if there are any obvious errors? I haven't used this service before and I don't want to throw away almost $100. It's for a Fonitronik Resonator (that sounds awesome btw).
sduck
I took a quick look at it. I don't see any major problems. Besides the price - you could reduce the price a lot using some easy cost cutting ideas. The first thing to consider is the font - euro is the most expensive one they have. Use DIN 17 instead, and experiment with scaling and such to get almost identical results. Another idea is not using infill wherever you can do without it, like the tick marks around the knobs.

I didn't check the hole spacing, but you should always double check the mounting holes placement, and the diameters of the component holes.
chromium
I'm working on a fpe panel (also black anodized), and was trying to think of alternatives for doing a white infill. Has anyone attempted doing their own?

I was wondering if I could use something like an acrylic white paint, brush it over the engraved letters, wipe off excess, let dry, and then hit the surface with some thinner for cleanup? Never tried this on anodized aluminum...

Infill amounts to almost $25 of the cost of your panel, and while not a big deal for one panel it really adds up if you're doing several.

Anyway- Nice job on that one! It looks good to me.
haricots
Thanks for the tip. I've almost cut the cost in half!

I've heard of people using some sort of oil pencil to fill in the grooves.
haricots
Are the exact coordinates available for the 'MOTM grid' anywhere?
magman
haricots,

The specs are available from the Synthesis Technology website, here:

http://www.synthtech.com/tech/m440_panel.pdf

Regards

Magman
emdot_ambient
I assume you know to make sure the holes for pots and jacks and such match what you're going to use...'cause the MOTM specs are for (I think) 24mm pots and the common 16mm ones have a smaller panel hole size.

The 16mm pots I have look like they need about a 7mm hole rather than the 9.70mm holes in your panel. So just make sure your pots are indeed the larger ones or they might be a bit loose.
emdot_ambient
Oh, but nice looking panel. I've got a couple of these to build and was actually considering using sliders for the PB controls rather than knobs. I don't think it would save any panel space, but for some reason I like the idea of sliders better for this kind of module...if I could only find the correct friggin' sliders!
JohnLRice
Looks really nice!

You may have a few things not aligned perfectly vertically, unless that's the way you want it.

The three switches and their labels don't align with the LFO controls/labels above them. Also check the BP 1, 2 and 3 controls which are all slightly different I think.
JohnLRice
chromium wrote:
I'm working on a fpe panel (also black anodized), and was trying to think of alternatives for doing a white infill. Has anyone attempted doing their own?

I was wondering if I could use something like an acrylic white paint, brush it over the engraved letters, wipe off excess, let dry, and then hit the surface with some thinner for cleanup? Never tried this on anodized aluminum...

Infill amounts to almost $25 of the cost of your panel, and while not a big deal for one panel it really adds up if you're doing several.



I haven't tried it but I've read on Muff's the thing that a lot of folks use is lacquer stick (do a Google search)

I think I've read that some people use model paint too.

FPE uses automotive paint mixed with thinner and then applied through syringe looking devices. They let it bleed over the edges a bit and then once it has hardened somewhat they clean off the excess with pure thinner.
emdot_ambient
JohnLRice wrote:
I think I've read that some people use model paint too.

If you use enamel model paint it would work fine. You could even bake it in your oven to harden it if you want...heat the oven to like 250 degrees F, stick the painted panel in on a middle rack, shut off the oven and let it sit in there all night. I've done that on some old lead miniatures and the paint lasts for a long time...in an engraved area it would last even better.
haricots
Thanks for all the improvement tips. I've fixed the alignment, hole sizes and cut the cost to $53.40.

There should be a sticky for component panel hole sizes.
emdot_ambient
haricots wrote:
There should be a sticky for component panel hole sizes.

I'm not sure how standard different pots are...or switches for that matter. I keep reading people here saying to get your parts first, then check to make sure your panel holes are correct...then check them again...then maybe again, or do a test copy on paper or MDA...then check them again! hihi
emdot_ambient
Oh, but cool you almost cut the cost in half!
davebr
I have a 1U and 2U MOTM template that I use for all my panels. It is at the top of my DIY page. You can use that to double check your dimensions. The Tic marks are done with HPGL but the costs went up with V4 software so they're pretty expensive.

I have filled in my own engravings on one panel that was missing them. It's doable with a lacquer stick and a lot of time. On my last panel I was tempted to fill them myself but opted to have them done.

Dave
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 1
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group