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[FYI] Infrared Proximity Sensor CV generator
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next [all]
Author [FYI] Infrared Proximity Sensor CV generator
dot matrix madness
Shouldn't C3 by 2u2 rather than 10u to get a cutoff frequency around 50Hz?
av500
dot matrix madness wrote:
Shouldn't C3 by 2u2 rather than 10u to get a cutoff frequency around 50Hz?


yes, but 10uF and 1.5k was what I had in my hand at that time smile
Oblivion
Awesomesauce. When I get back on my DIY train . . . I've always dug the Roland sensor thing that rhymes with "me scheme." grin
Jarno


I did a small board based on your schematic, av500, it is a ton of fun!
I am going to build another one, but plenty left so if anyone wants a board, pm me.
Apart from the sensors themselves (little stock at the moment) Reichelt also has the cable assembly, really helpful.
Not seeing too much hair because of noise, scope says about 40mV. Tried putting it on my monitors, but i couldn't hear any noise.
Very nice!
av500
Jarno wrote:

I did a small board based on your schematic, av500, it is a ton of fun!
I am going to build another one, but plenty left so if anyone wants a board, pm me.
Apart from the sensors themselves (little stock at the moment) Reichelt also has the cable assembly, really helpful.
Not seeing too much hair because of noise, scope says about 40mV. Tried putting it on my monitors, but i couldn't hear any noise.
Very nice!


very nice indeed! got a pic of the board? glad you enjoyed my idea smile
Jarno
Liked your idea AND your circuit grin
It works really well.



This is a picture of the assembly, I shortened the cable from Reichelt. Ordered panels but haven't received them, probably can shorten the cable a bit further.
Works fine as is.

This is the board:


(I will stop using both top and bottom groundplanes, by the way, quite a job to solder through hole components which connect to ground. So much heat you need to put into it to get the solder to flow properly.)
av500
Jarno wrote:
Liked your idea AND your circuit grin
It works really well.



This is a picture of the assembly, I shortened the cable from Reichelt. Ordered panels but haven't received them, probably can shorten the cable a bit further.
Works fine as is.

This is the board:


(I will stop using both top and bottom groundplanes, by the way, quite a job to solder through hole components which connect to ground. So much heat you need to put into it to get the solder to flow properly.)


1) make the thermals smaller, then less heat escapes to the ground plane
2) increase pad/via sizes in general
3) do stuff like this: added polygons and solder mask on the bottom side to have a nice large space where to place the iron, works nicely.
Jarno
Other than the isolation setting for polygons, not sure if there's something to set thermal relief spokes.
And on pad sizes, I am using the standard parts, but yeah, maybe should do my own library. I really like the footprint that Tom Wiltshire did for the PSU header, staggered holes so the component stays in if you flip the board for soldering.
The tooth pulling sensation which is component definition in Eagle keeps me from it grin

Single groundplanes, and preset for higher soldering temperature gets me by.
av500
Jarno wrote:
Other than the isolation setting for polygons, not sure if there's something to set thermal relief spokes.
And on pad sizes, I am using the standard parts, but yeah, maybe should do my own library. I really like the footprint that Tom Wiltshire did for the PSU header, staggered holes so the component stays in if you flip the board for soldering.
The tooth pulling sensation which is component definition in Eagle keeps me from it grin

Single groundplanes, and preset for higher soldering temperature gets me by.


ah yes, on Eagle the thermal size is a fixed percentage of the pad dimensions or something like that, not easy to change. on some PCBs I have manually killed thermals by placing a restrict blob over them.

still you can enlarge vias sizes, that helps a lot to get heat transferred to them.

I usually just copy standard parts to my own library and modify them, making vias and pads larger is not that hard. I enlarged a lot of pads on SMT parts so that they are easier to hand solder since a lot of pad definitions assume it will by paste reflowed and thus there is no space to put the iron to heat the pad. Stuff like the metal can electros that MI likes to use...
Jarno
av500 wrote:
I enlarged a lot of pads on SMT parts so that they are easier to hand solder since a lot of pad definitions assume it will by paste reflowed and thus there is no space to put the iron to heat the pad.


I use 1206 smt footprints, but place 0805 components on them for this reason grin
av500
Jarno wrote:
av500 wrote:
I enlarged a lot of pads on SMT parts so that they are easier to hand solder since a lot of pad definitions assume it will by paste reflowed and thus there is no space to put the iron to heat the pad.


I use 1206 smt footprints, but place 0805 components on them for this reason grin


I will try with TSSOP in SO footprints grin
Jarno
Dead Banana
Oblivion
Could one of you guys sanity check this part selection: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sharp-Microelectronics/GP2Y0A41SK0 F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvcRsgoMFfeP51dtrxPbdb0ivlIAStkZqg%3d

I can't seem to find the the GP2-0430 model number here in the states, but the datasheets for it and the GP2Y0A41SK0F seem to match. Thoughts?

Thanks.
av500
yes, same thing.
Jarno
Can't seem to find the connector at mouser though, might want to just solder wires directly to the little PCB.
av500
Jarno wrote:
Can't seem to find the connector at mouser though, might want to just solder wires directly to the little PCB.


solder? screaming goo yo screaming goo yo screaming goo yo
Oblivion
Would this work?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Adafruit/1663/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsMyYRR hGMFNnBypRicSdXV9xLvbRFFX%2fw%3d (Granted, it's both sides, which we don't need, but . . . .)

Also, I'm ordering my SMD parts (thanks for confirming the sensor av500). Could someon confirm if these look right?
Caps: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C0805C104K4RACTU/?qs=sGAEpiM ZZMs0AnBnWHyRQFCCI5cSbRT%2f1Gdrl2EbPVM%3d

OpAmp: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=TL072CDTvirtualkey51 120000virtualkey511-TL072CDT

Thanks much.
Jarno
Caps and opamp look ok.
Cable and connector, hmmmmm, not sure, that female connector has these little flaps to the side which aren't on mine.
Oblivion
Ok, I'll probably just use female jumper leads on mine. Thanks for the feedback.
Jarno
Apparently, that connector is not easy to get.
They have that distance sensor at Hobbytronics UK as well Look here
And they suggest soldering to the PCB, have a look at the additional pictures.
Jarno
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9915

By the way, this does seem like the right connector, and even the cable looks the same.
chaotician
I'm pretty sure its just a 3 way JST Connector like these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Mobile-Phone-Data-Cables/Sets-Mini-Micro-Co nnector-150mm-Cable-Female/B01DU9OY40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=148658657 9&sr=8-1&keywords=3+pin+jst+connector
Jarno
Good find!
Oblivion
Nice. And in the US: http://a.co/0cM7YIk ???
Oblivion
Jarno,

I finally got around to building my first one last night and . . . .

I burned up R7 and R8. I am CERTAIN the power is keyed the right way round, even measured the voltage. So I'm guessing I put the TL072 down backwards and the low-Ohm resistors protected it? Or at least tried to? Does that seem reasonable? I'll build up my second one and see how that goes . . . .

Edit to confirm: I put the TL072 down the wrong way 'round despite clear instructions for "chamfered side is towards the 10r resistor." Not sure how I botched that.

One more edit to say the sacrificial protection resistors did their jobs - did my first hot-air rework and flipped the chip, replaced the 10R's and it was good to go. This'll be fun.
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