[FYI] Infrared Proximity Sensor CV generator

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dot matrix madness
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Post by dot matrix madness » Thu May 19, 2016 4:36 am

Shouldn't C3 by 2u2 rather than 10u to get a cutoff frequency around 50Hz?
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Post by av500 » Thu May 19, 2016 4:37 am

dot matrix madness wrote:Shouldn't C3 by 2u2 rather than 10u to get a cutoff frequency around 50Hz?
yes, but 10uF and 1.5k was what I had in my hand at that time :)

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Post by Oblivion » Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:09 am

Awesomesauce. When I get back on my DIY train . . . I've always dug the Roland sensor thing that rhymes with "me scheme." :D
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Post by Jarno » Wed Feb 01, 2017 4:29 pm

[video][/video]

I did a small board based on your schematic, av500, it is a ton of fun!
I am going to build another one, but plenty left so if anyone wants a board, pm me.
Apart from the sensors themselves (little stock at the moment) Reichelt also has the cable assembly, really helpful.
Not seeing too much hair because of noise, scope says about 40mV. Tried putting it on my monitors, but i couldn't hear any noise.
Very nice!

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Post by av500 » Thu Feb 02, 2017 3:44 am

Jarno wrote: I did a small board based on your schematic, av500, it is a ton of fun!
I am going to build another one, but plenty left so if anyone wants a board, pm me.
Apart from the sensors themselves (little stock at the moment) Reichelt also has the cable assembly, really helpful.
Not seeing too much hair because of noise, scope says about 40mV. Tried putting it on my monitors, but i couldn't hear any noise.
Very nice!
very nice indeed! got a pic of the board? glad you enjoyed my idea :)

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Post by Jarno » Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:13 am

Liked your idea AND your circuit :D
It works really well.

Image

This is a picture of the assembly, I shortened the cable from Reichelt. Ordered panels but haven't received them, probably can shorten the cable a bit further.
Works fine as is.

This is the board:
Image

(I will stop using both top and bottom groundplanes, by the way, quite a job to solder through hole components which connect to ground. So much heat you need to put into it to get the solder to flow properly.)

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Post by av500 » Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:21 am

Jarno wrote:Liked your idea AND your circuit :D
It works really well.

Image

This is a picture of the assembly, I shortened the cable from Reichelt. Ordered panels but haven't received them, probably can shorten the cable a bit further.
Works fine as is.

This is the board:
Image

(I will stop using both top and bottom groundplanes, by the way, quite a job to solder through hole components which connect to ground. So much heat you need to put into it to get the solder to flow properly.)
1) make the thermals smaller, then less heat escapes to the ground plane
2) increase pad/via sizes in general
3) do stuff like this: added polygons and solder mask on the bottom side to have a nice large space where to place the iron, works nicely.
Image

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Post by Jarno » Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:58 am

Other than the isolation setting for polygons, not sure if there's something to set thermal relief spokes.
And on pad sizes, I am using the standard parts, but yeah, maybe should do my own library. I really like the footprint that Tom Wiltshire did for the PSU header, staggered holes so the component stays in if you flip the board for soldering.
The tooth pulling sensation which is component definition in Eagle keeps me from it :D

Single groundplanes, and preset for higher soldering temperature gets me by.

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Post by av500 » Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:08 am

Jarno wrote:Other than the isolation setting for polygons, not sure if there's something to set thermal relief spokes.
And on pad sizes, I am using the standard parts, but yeah, maybe should do my own library. I really like the footprint that Tom Wiltshire did for the PSU header, staggered holes so the component stays in if you flip the board for soldering.
The tooth pulling sensation which is component definition in Eagle keeps me from it :D

Single groundplanes, and preset for higher soldering temperature gets me by.
ah yes, on Eagle the thermal size is a fixed percentage of the pad dimensions or something like that, not easy to change. on some PCBs I have manually killed thermals by placing a restrict blob over them.

still you can enlarge vias sizes, that helps a lot to get heat transferred to them.

I usually just copy standard parts to my own library and modify them, making vias and pads larger is not that hard. I enlarged a lot of pads on SMT parts so that they are easier to hand solder since a lot of pad definitions assume it will by paste reflowed and thus there is no space to put the iron to heat the pad. Stuff like the metal can electros that MI likes to use...

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Post by Jarno » Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:13 am

av500 wrote:I enlarged a lot of pads on SMT parts so that they are easier to hand solder since a lot of pad definitions assume it will by paste reflowed and thus there is no space to put the iron to heat the pad.
I use 1206 smt footprints, but place 0805 components on them for this reason :D

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Post by av500 » Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:15 am

Jarno wrote:
av500 wrote:I enlarged a lot of pads on SMT parts so that they are easier to hand solder since a lot of pad definitions assume it will by paste reflowed and thus there is no space to put the iron to heat the pad.
I use 1206 smt footprints, but place 0805 components on them for this reason :D
I will try with TSSOP in SO footprints :D

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Post by Jarno » Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:35 am

:deadbanana:

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Post by Oblivion » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:05 am

Could one of you guys sanity check this part selection: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Sha ... AStkZqg%3d

I can't seem to find the the GP2-0430 model number here in the states, but the datasheets for it and the GP2Y0A41SK0F seem to match. Thoughts?

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Post by av500 » Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:12 am

yes, same thing.

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Post by Jarno » Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:40 am

Can't seem to find the connector at mouser though, might want to just solder wires directly to the little PCB.

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Post by av500 » Mon Feb 06, 2017 12:00 pm

Jarno wrote:Can't seem to find the connector at mouser though, might want to just solder wires directly to the little PCB.
solder? :goo: :goo: :goo:

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Post by Oblivion » Mon Feb 06, 2017 2:01 pm

Would this work?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ada ... FFX%2fw%3d (Granted, it's both sides, which we don't need, but . . . .)

Also, I'm ordering my SMD parts (thanks for confirming the sensor av500). Could someon confirm if these look right?
Caps: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kem ... l2EbPVM%3d

OpAmp: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 1-TL072CDT

Thanks much.
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Post by Jarno » Mon Feb 06, 2017 4:36 pm

Caps and opamp look ok.
Cable and connector, hmmmmm, not sure, that female connector has these little flaps to the side which aren't on mine.

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Post by Oblivion » Mon Feb 06, 2017 5:28 pm

Ok, I'll probably just use female jumper leads on mine. Thanks for the feedback.
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Post by Jarno » Tue Feb 07, 2017 5:28 am

Apparently, that connector is not easy to get.
They have that distance sensor at Hobbytronics UK as well Look here
And they suggest soldering to the PCB, have a look at the additional pictures.

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Post by Jarno » Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:28 am

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9915

By the way, this does seem like the right connector, and even the cable looks the same.

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Post by chaotician » Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:36 pm

I'm pretty sure its just a 3 way JST Connector like these

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Post by Jarno » Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:06 pm

Good find!

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Post by Oblivion » Wed Feb 08, 2017 8:32 pm

Nice. And in the US: http://a.co/0cM7YIk ???
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Post by Oblivion » Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:00 am

Jarno,

I finally got around to building my first one last night and . . . .

I burned up R7 and R8. I am CERTAIN the power is keyed the right way round, even measured the voltage. So I'm guessing I put the TL072 down backwards and the low-Ohm resistors protected it? Or at least tried to? Does that seem reasonable? I'll build up my second one and see how that goes . . . .

Edit to confirm: I put the TL072 down the wrong way 'round despite clear instructions for "chamfered side is towards the 10r resistor." Not sure how I botched that.

One more edit to say the sacrificial protection resistors did their jobs - did my first hot-air rework and flipped the chip, replaced the 10R's and it was good to go. This'll be fun.
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