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Jurgen Haible Frequency Shifter (JH FS-1a) Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5 [all]
Author Jurgen Haible Frequency Shifter (JH FS-1a) Build Thread
How did you do the print on the enclosure? I had one of those cases for my mb808 and i never completed it as i couldn’t work out a method to toner transfer. That being said it was a large one 40cm or so wide. Fabricators wouldnt touch it as it was sloped.
I bought a Cameo 3 vinyl cutting machine. It felt like a bit of a gamble after watching video after video of people struggling to get their paper doilies to cut accurately (these were the best videos I could find of people documenting the fine details it could cut). The first test I put it through was cutting the Bergfotron Advanced VCO pcb which it did very accurately. It even cut the tiny holes for the leads. I had to mess around with it quite a bit to find the right settings for this. It can cut 12 in x 16.5 ft.

Below is the mask I made on the enclosure. I used Krylon SUPERMAXX All-In-One spray paint after watching video of guys using it on their semi-auto rifles so I figured it would hold up pretty well. No sanding or priming required although the beige powder coat on the Hammond enclosures is some sort of primer. I am impressed with the paint's durability. I did some tests on plastic and could not get it to chip at all. I am looking for a thicker paint I can brush or squeegee on for the next one though. I suck at spraying and the textured surface mixed with the runny paint from spraying too fast or too close was a bad combo.

Anyone here down to build me a standalone version?
Or eurorack?
No one?
I would build you a standalone unit for exactly 2x the cost of the materials to build it, so I could have the identical unit for myself.

I wouldn't expect a standalone unit to sell for less than $800-900.
PM'd Guinness ftw!
I'm curious about how some of you have handled the mic/line input. The mic preamp portion of the circuit is expecting a balanced signal. Are you sending your line and modular signal through the preamp without converting it, or are you injecting the signal after the mic preamp? I'm finalizing my panel design, and am planning on using a XLR/1/4" combo connector and a 1/8" connector as well. The 1/4" connector will pass through the switch contacts of the 1/8" connector.
I haven't used the Mic option on mine but my line in works this way:
Line in jack ->Pot ->Pad labelled 'Mic Level' on board 2.
Its been a while since i built it so I'm not exactly sure how i came up with it but there certainly was some level of confusion.
Looking at the file jh_fs1a_schematics_connections_3 this is the pad labelled MIC LEVEL and it leads to a pot. The right pad carries your signal (mic signal from board or line from a jack) before being attenuated by the pot. Take a look at the file jh_fs1a_schematics_board_2, it shows the exact connections if using the MIC/SSM option. If I had to switch between 2 sources MIC or LINE each with their own physical input i'd put a switch there right before the signal hits the pot.

As for the XLR-jack combo connector I'm not sure, ive never dealt with those so i dont even know if the connections are shared which makes it more difficult or if theyre separate in 1 unit.Certainly can be done with switches and lots of poles hihi

I'm sure though if you search for unbalanced line into whatever preamp IC you use you'll find other options of connecting it, might be you just ground out one of the SSM sides to use an unbalanced input.
I use the AUX input for modular levels and really only use the preamp for a microphone or guitar but mostly mic. I built it the same as the wiring diagram shows. The only change I would make is not tying the feedback through the switch on the AUX jack. At some point I'm going to kludge in a couple resistors and a cap so that using the AUX jack doesn't disable the feedback.

So here's my contribution to this thread. I used the onboard power supply and added a dedicated feedback knob as mentioned by Revok.

For the mic input, I just wired the XLR and 1/4" jacks together as they will never be plugged in at the same time. The mic preamp gain is awesome! It will distort a guitar input if you want it to.

How did you all go about the 1V/Oct calibration? I did it after all of the other calibration, and didn't notice any dramatic difference in tracking.
Your build looks so nice. Excellent job on the layout and aesthetics.

I think I fed mine an oscillator and set it an octave up. Then I sent them both the same CV and got it to track like 3 to 4 octaves maybe? I don't think it worked the same always and have never been satisfied that I did this correctly. Most of the time I'm just plugging in a mic and making funny voices to be perfectly honest but I would like to use it more musically soon.

It looks like setting the QVCO for hopefully a few octaves of tracking is the key to this. I'm totally lost looking at the schematic on this one though. I'd guess that using either of the integrator test points from step 1 of the calibration procedure might be a good spot to measure the frequency for a proper V/Oct calibration. I might give it a shot this weekend if I have the time.

Here are all of the pertinent quotes from Jürgen in the origina EM thread. I included the first one since it's a nice description of the main controls too.

"You can set your maximum range (for a manual sweep) with the exponential pot, and then use the full rotation of the linear pot to perform this sweep, with zero shift at 12 o'clock position.

The linear fine tuning knob helps to set very precise sweeps near the zero point (for "infinite phasing"), even when a rather large range is set with the exponential pot.
The exponential fine tuning helps tuning the oscillator when you want your frequency shift amount to be in a precise musical relation to your input signal. ("Tracking Shift") "

"In addition to these manual controls, there are a linear and an expo CV input: Linear CV with reversible attenuator, Expo CV with logarithmic potentiometer for attenuation.
Plus a dedicated 1V/Oct input (also exponential in nature); don't expect accurate tracking on more than 2 or 3 octaves, though."

"If 3 ranges are enough for you, then a toggle switch will do.
I'd go for a better resolution, though: You could use a rotary switch with positions that are an octave apart, for instance.
But this should not give you the wrong impression that you really have precise octaves: On a good day, the oscillator will track 3 octaves or so, not more. (Speaking of the 1V/Oct input, but this would also apply to scaled switches.) "

"Normally FS are most known for destroying harmonic relations.
But if you set the FS's internal oscillator to a "musical" ratio of your input signal, and transpose the two of them with the same CV, you can actully play little melodies ...

But I don't want to raise any high expectations. The tracking of the FS-1A's oscillator is very bad (more like two than three octaves) - the feature is that it does some kind of V/Oct tracking at all."

"And, overall, don't expect good keyboard tracking. It's good for one or two octaves, not more. (I didn't put much effort in precision here.)

From: rder=asc&highlight=
can you guys post some demo's of your FS1s

i haven't heard many others and i'd love to assess whether mine is working as it should. i think the only ones online are sducks and mine.
I've been meaning to do a flashy video demo but my audio interface took a dive a while back. I might be able to rig up something to record sound though. What would be helpful for you, Luka?
Reese P. Dubin
Anybody sitting in a set of caps for this thing? pretty sure i may have chimed in with the same ? in the last 7 years...

God I need to finish this thing!
I used 1% C0G caps and it sounds good to my ears. They're kind of pricey but are available on Mouser and Digikey.
Reese P. Dubin wrote:
Anybody sitting in a set of caps for this thing? pretty sure i may have chimed in with the same ? in the last 7 years...

God I need to finish this thing!

It's quite likely that i still have spares of most if not all of the values needed for this. Send me a PM with your address to cajole me to look.
Thanks for the thorough post Revok! I did read the whole e-m build thread, so I remember Jurgen's comments about tracking not being a big priority. I hadn't thought of calibrating it in relation to an input signal though, so that's a very helpful idea.

Luka, I've recorded a bit of experimenting with it, but those recordings quickly devolve into noisy messing around, so I'm not sure they would be useful to anyone. I'm willing to record something specific if it would be helpful to you. I will have the one in the picture for about a week before I send it to the owner, then it will probably be a few weeks before I finish wiring mine (same build, different graphic on the panel).

For caps, I used 1% film caps for most of the values, and a C0G for one of them that wasn't available in film.
Here's the part numbers I used (stocked at Mouser):

330p - SR211A331FARTR2 (heh, fart)
1nf - F463AG102F2K0A
1.2nf - F463AG122F2K0A
2.2nf - KP1830222011
4.7nf - F462AG472F1K0C
8.2nf - I used 10nf for these since 1% through-hole parts were not stocked at Mouser when I ordered (unless you want $18 mica caps). Jurgen's spreadsheet makes value substitutions easy.
10nf - F462AK103F1K0C
22nf - MKP1837322161
100nf - MKP1837410011
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