MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index
 FAQ & Terms of UseFAQ & Terms Of Use   Wiggler RadioMW Radio   Muff Wiggler TwitterTwitter   Support the site @ PatreonPatreon 
 SearchSearch   RegisterSign up   Log inLog in 
WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Jurgen Haible Frequency Shifter (JH FS-1a) Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Jurgen Haible Frequency Shifter (JH FS-1a) Build Thread
tommy.york
Edit: renamed this thread to make it a build thread.

To discuss: what's the easiest way to adapt the JH FS-1a to 12V? Should it even be adapted at all? Is there a eurorack panel for the JH-FS1a? Should I use this as an excuse to get into MOTM?

I've seen a gorgeous MOTM panel and a cool 4U panel (I think it's 4U?), and the Human Comparator's jaw dropping Buchla-style panel + pcb.

Though it also sounds like Sputnik Modular might be doing a frequency shifter based on the same design, but it'd neat to DIY it.
My first exposure to modular was through Arturia Modular V, which featured the Bode frequency shifter. That sound is just raw modular sex appeal to me. Dead Banana

edit: This is what my current working version of the panel looks like in FPE. I've attached the Front Panel Express file, which includes drilled M3 holes to mount the PCB behind the panel. Haven't confirmed that it fits yet.
edit: Uploaded a new version of the FPE panel, this time with the PCB re-measured as 150.5 mm x 90.5 mm.
edit: Drill holes are in correct location. Removed old drafts.

pix
A random source design similar to the living VCOs would be fantastic!
mnml
I don't know if anyone's done any eurorack of the FS1. I've been digging through the BOM and schematics though to see how involved the build would be... just looking through JH's old docs, the word is 'very'. Still the design is pretty interesting and tempting.


Speaking of parts, there's this MC1496 4-quadrant multiplier chip, apparently no longer available as TH unless you're buying 2,000. Not a huge deal, just use an SMD adapter. And then there's the BF245A, also hard to find. Ebay lists some Chinese vendors but probably a red flag.
tommy.york
mnml wrote:
I've been digging through the BOM and schematics though to see how involved the build would be... just looking through JH's old docs, the word is 'very'.

nanners
I gotta find something to do after the TTSH!

mnml wrote:
Speaking of parts, there's this MC1496 4-quadrant multiplier chip, apparently no longer available as TH unless you're buying 2,000. Not a huge deal, just use an SMD adapter. And then there's the BF245A, also hard to find. Ebay lists some Chinese vendors but probably a red flag.

I had a good experience with utsource in getting the rare parts for the TTSH. I'm no elite-level DIY'er that can critically test the components to assure that they're real, but my TTSH works wonderfully.
AlanP
What are the physical measurements for the two FS-1A boards? If they're anything like the Tau Pipe, then they are not going to be Euro-friendly, unless you spend many HP on the module panel.
diablojoy
Quote:
What are the physical measurements for the two FS-1A boards? If they're anything like the Tau Pipe, then they are not going to be Euro-friendly, unless you spend many HP on the module panel.


I just checked old crows backup of jurgens site seems the FS-1A boards are 160 x 100 mm so euro is possible but 32HP panel roughly unless you get inventive and have a deep cabinet
panel needs to be big enough for 13 pots , 7 jacks, 7 switches and 4 LED's
judging from jurgens notes unless I missed something I only had a quick glance
Starspawn
I think the Sputnik Modular guy licensed the FS1 for his eurorack range, dont know if its out yet but someone mentioned it. So search for that and youll see a panel option for euro.
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/sputnik-modular-frequency-shifter
Cheradenine
I guess there's no euro panel for the FS-1A because it won't work with -12V/+12V supply...

Electro-music forum, in the frequency shifter topic :
J.Haible wrote:
We *need* +/-15V, so the +/-12V systems are not supported.


Good luck to whom will try to mess with the circuit to adapt it !

From an old thread here
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
clarke68 wrote:
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
I'm liking it. And, I'm happy to help out with the conversion duties, if you suggest some circuits.

I would love it if you could figure out how to build the Jurgen Haible Living VCOs in 12v.

Thanks in advance!

Why not? Sounds like a plan! Just don't ask me to mess with the JH frequency shifter. That idea gives me the willies!


But of course one could use the dedicaced 15V supply on the original PCB and give it his own AC power directly.
mnml
Low-noise DC-DC converter?
mnml
Though I'm sure JH wouldn't have commented about the supply voltage without a good reason, nothing really jumped out at me looking at the schematics.
mnml
Quote:

I had a good experience with utsource in getting the rare parts for the TTSH. I'm no elite-level DIY'er that can critically test the components to assure that they're real, but my TTSH works wonderfully.


Great tip, thanks!
sduck
Hey folks, if this is going to be a general build discussion thread, might want to rename the thread.
tommy.york
sduck wrote:
Hey folks, if this is going to be a general build discussion thread, might want to rename the thread.

Done! This is fun!
tommy.york
I've attached a front panel express file with an adaptation of the Modular Synthesis LLC (Dave?)'s 5U panel into Eurorack. This is my first time using the front panel express software, so let me know if you see any glaring issues. I wouldn't plan on pulling the trigger until I had a working FS-1a...

I changed the LED mounting holes to .25" to accommodate LED lenses like the ones R*S uses in their DUSG (e.g. Mouser 593-3000R). Jack sizes changed to 6mm, etc. Switch mounting holes changed to 4.75mm (for mini SPDT toggles from Tayda). Pot mounting holes changed to 7.5mm (for panel mount Alpha's from Tayda). Schroff mounting rails added.

Would still need to figure out:

- power supply conversion, or separate power supply
- how to mount the PCB relative to the panel (PCB is 160mm by 100mm, panel is 162.22mm by 128.4mm)
- how to replicate Modular Synthesis' wiring and adaptation
mnml
Why are there 2 knobs for "Fine" and "FM" ? I see them on the MOTM panel but not the schemos.
sduck
mnml wrote:
Why are there 2 knobs for "Fine" and "FM" ? I see them on the MOTM panel but not the schemos.


One's linear, one's exponential. On my version of it (and possibly on Dave's version I copied from) the distinction of which is which was left off.

JH FS1a installed by Stephen Drake, on Flickr

tommy.york, your panel looks great, but make sure there's enough room at the bottom and top for the hardware behind the panel to clear the mounting rails. It might be ok as is - I'm not as familiar with euro hardware spacing.

How to adapt the wiring - I don't think there's an easy way out of this. You're just going to have to roll your sleeves up and get your hands dirty. I used a combination of Jurgen's wiring diagram and Dave's - there was quite a bit of experimentation with pot values and such before I was happy. If you click on the picture of my panel it'll take you to my flickr page, with some pics of the wiring - not for the feint of heart stuff.
Luka
here is my design

not euro but might help with some ideas
i am really happy with it - fun to play

mush
tommy.york wrote:
I've attached a front panel express file with an adaptation of the Modular Synthesis LLC (Dave?)'s 5U panel into Eurorack. This is my first time using the front panel express software, so let me know if you see any glaring issues. I wouldn't plan on pulling the trigger until I had a working FS-1a...

I changed the LED mounting holes to .25" to accommodate LED lenses like the ones R*S uses in their DUSG (e.g. Mouser 593-3000R). Jack sizes changed to 6mm, etc. Switch mounting holes changed to 4.75mm (for mini SPDT toggles from Tayda). Pot mounting holes changed to 7.5mm (for panel mount Alpha's from Tayda). Schroff mounting rails added.

Would still need to figure out:

- power supply conversion, or separate power supply
- how to mount the PCB relative to the panel (PCB is 160mm by 100mm, panel is 162.22mm by 128.4mm)
- how to replicate Modular Synthesis' wiring and adaptation


The jacks will not fit, due to the mounting rails.
PWM
tommy.york as said before, those lower jacks will probably not fit. I center them at 14mm, measured from the bottom. This way they'll fit with all 3,5 jacks I came across.
Great design though, a little bit to plain for my likings but still.


Luka that's an awesome design!
tommy.york
Thanks mnml + sduck + luka + mush + pwm.

pwm I love those minimal designs!

Moved the jacks to 13mm from the bottom last night (before PWM's post), sent a copy to Ponoko to try it in black delrin (some sort of highly stiff thermoplastic?) by exporting to SVG and editing the paths in Illustrator... $25 shipped to me, could be worse. Doing this design at front panel express looks like $114 excl. shipping so I'd definitely like to try it in a cheaper material before going big.

(In the attached panel, the jacks are 14mm from the bottom, in the picture below, jacks are 13mm from the bottom).



How did you goes mount the PCB relative to the panel? Did anyone out there manage to mount the PCB parallel to the panel?
pix
that looks great! to mount the board parallel to the panel an easy option would be to add some extra holes to install spacer screws (the PCBs have 4 holes).

Also, would you be willing to share the .ai file of this panel version?
tommy.york
pix wrote:
that looks great! to mount the board parallel to the panel an easy option would be to add some extra holes to install spacer screws (the PCBs have 4 holes).

Also, would you be willing to share the .ai file of this panel version?

Yes! But it's not AI, it's .svg, which apparently isn't allowed file type for the muffwiggler bbs, which is why I didn't originally upload it. Attached a zip with the fpd (jacks 14mm from the bottom) and the svg I used (jacks 13mm from the bottom)... This is the .svg file I used with ponoko, so engraving is in red, cuts are in blue, and all the lines are .01mm. Fingers crossed that the whole thing comes out correct.
pix
Thanks! I have access to a cutter and some acrylic, I can give it a try and see how it turns out. I just ordered the PCB from modularaddict, I'm going to wait until it's here to measure and add the spacer screw holes. I can cut a few more if anyone else is interested.
the bad producer
Has anyone ever tried using something like this?

http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3265
Cheradenine
the bad producer wrote:
Has anyone ever tried using something like this?

http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3265


At 50mA per outs this particular model can't supply enough juice for the FS; Dave Brown measured it at 111 mA on the +15V and 106 mA for the -15V.
tommy.york
the bad producer wrote:
Has anyone ever tried using something like this?

http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3265

In a perfect world, we'd use something like this LTC3265 to create the inverse of this MOTM->12v converting chiclet.

Tangentially related: the oshpark user (wiggler too, I think) also created PCB chiclets for 16mm tayda pots. Looks useful for the wiring ahead.
pix
I think I'll just install a 15V PSU to be able to build the other Haible designs.

I found the CGS and stroh PSUs at synthcube, is there a consensus on these or other options?
tommy.york
Cheradenine wrote:
the bad producer wrote:
Has anyone ever tried using something like this?

http://www.linear.com/product/LTC3265


At 50mA per outs this particular model can't supply enough juice for the FS; Dave Brown measured it at 111 mA on the +15V and 106 mA for the -15V.

I feel like the right solution here is something like a MC34063, and there's even an example step-up converter in the T.I.
MC34063AP data sheet
, but I'd have to level up my electrical engineering skills (which are more or less nonexistent at the moment) really, really fast if I wanted to implement this.

Edit: broke the whole 12v->15v thing out into a separate thread, for better visibility.
mnml
pix wrote:
I think I'll just install a 15V PSU to be able to build the other Haible designs.

I found the CGS and stroh PSUs at synthcube, is there a consensus on these or other options?


There's already a 15V power supply on the FS1 PCB. For a one-off DIY thing, that might be the path of least resistance.
pix
wasn't aware of that. So all it needs is a 18V transformer? say this one?

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/dunlop-ecb-004-barrel-18v-a dapter?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvZq6BRC9kfq2zKfQ_94BEiQA OeUVC42Fl-u0Z9xoUA3WNaNa5onKjhuey9nz5vouP04Eo-QaApUq8P8HAQ&kwid=produc tads-adid%5E92666429307-device%5Ec-plaid%5E146601327882-sku%5E33310400 0000000@ADL4MF-adType%5EPLA#productDetail
tommy.york
I'm using polystyrene (where available from Mouser) + C0G ceramics for the dome filter. Not 1% - will calculate resistor values for the dome filter.

Tayda polyester + electrolytic + tantalum everywhere else. Trying to do this project on a budget. waah

Questions for those more experienced than me:

BoM calls for Zener diode, 5.1v / 500mw. Can I substitute a 5.1v / 1w Zener diode?
BoM calls for 1K tempco resistor. Did anyone use any different values? Also, for either 1k or different value, what PPM?
sduck
It's been a long time since i built mine, but I think I can answer the more general questions.

Yes, you can sub a 1w zener for a 1/2w one.

Use a regular 1K resistor temporarily if you can't get a suitable tempco. They're pretty easy to get from synthcube though. Sub in the tempco once you get it. Don't use a different value resistor.
tommy.york
to pix and whoever else finds this thread in the future:

Ponoko was a success - they're located in the city adjacent to mine, so the panel shipped quickly - and I was able to put down some components on the panel. One quick note: the footprint for the two switches on the sides is the Mountain footprint, the switches on the bottom are the larger footprint. See in following pictures:



[/b]

I'll try to fix that in a new version. Also, one of the fresnel lenses was slightly smaller than the other, an slid more easily through the mounting holes. Not sure whether to blame the mounting holes or the fresnel lens. I'll look into it!
mnml
pix wrote:
wasn't aware of that. So all it needs is a 18V transformer? say this one?

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/dunlop-ecb-004-barrel-18v-a dapter?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXGP&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvZq6BRC9kfq2zKfQ_94BEiQA OeUVC42Fl-u0Z9xoUA3WNaNa5onKjhuey9nz5vouP04Eo-QaApUq8P8HAQ&kwid=produc tads-adid%5E92666429307-device%5Ec-plaid%5E146601327882-sku%5E33310400 0000000@ADL4MF-adType%5EPLA#productDetail


pix: looks like the gadget you highlighted is a standard "wall-wart" type 18V DC adapter. What the FS needs is 2 18V AC inputs, not DC. If I'm reading your question correctly, what the JH FS 1 needs is a 36V, center-tapped transformer, that provides 2 separate 18V ac outputs from a mains (120V, 220V, or whatever your country standard is) voltage. From this, the FS 1 power supply circuit rectifies, filters, and regulates the AC to +/- 15VDC.

Since one side of the transformer is at mains voltage, there is a serious shock hazard. Unless you have experience with this kind of wiring, ask a qualified tech to help you!
Luka
i used a standard 18vac wall wort with all my jh effect boxes. hook it up to the onboard psu so it runs half rectified.
pix
thanks mnml, forgot to check it needs AC. Luka, that's great to hear, I think I'm going to try going that route. Can you share the brand/model of the PSU you're using.

Tommy, I'm going to cut a panel in black acrylic this week, I can cut an extra one for you with larger holes for the switches if you want.

I just got the PCBs yesterday. I'm going to include 4 holes to install spacers. How are you planning to mount the panel and the PCB?
Luka
here is an example of one from a store
http://www.altronics.com.au/p/m9325a-powertran-16v-ac-1.38a-appliance- powerpack/

i usually find mine 2nd hand in op shops (2nd hand junk stores) for a few bucks
pix
Just finished painting the engraved panelsand they look great. I added 4 holes to mount the PCBs with spacers and made holes for the switches all the same size. I also played with different engraving depths and plexiglass surfaces to see what would look better, I'm going to keep the matte one with deeper engraving but the other 2 are up for grabs if anyone wants them. They're not perfect but they're pretty decent and definitely usable.

edit: sorry for the crappy pic, the one on top is glossy the two in the bottom and matte.

Tommy, did you decide what you're going to do regarding power?

tommy.york
pix wrote:
Just finished painting the engraved panelsand they look great. I added 4 holes to mount the PCBs with spacers and made holes for the switches all the same size. I also played with different engraving depths and plexiglass surfaces to see what would look better, I'm going to keep the matte one with deeper engraving but the other 2 are up for grabs if anyone wants them. They're not perfect but they're pretty decent and definitely usable.


pix these look great. Have you confirmed that the PCB's fit on spacers behind the panel? If so, do you want to share your layout? I haven't measured the PCB's from modular addict yet, keeping everything in a pile until my UTsource order comes in today.

Also, I hashed out some power ideas with sduck, gasboss775, and mnml in this thread. I got both Mouser part no. 709-DCW08A-15 (Meanwell isolated DC/DC converter 8W +/-15VOUT 9-18VIN) and Mouser part no. 595-MC34063AP (TI Voltage Regulator) with the inductor mentioned by gasboss775. I'm going to try to breadboard designs with both solutions.

... wish me luck. Dead Banana
pix
yes, they fit, I'll post the revised .ai file later tonight. I also raised the bottom jack holes and put the labels in the bottom.

good luck with the tests. keep us posted!

also let me know if you want one of the extra panels. You got first dibs.
tommy.york
pix wrote:
also let me know if you want one of the extra panels. You got first dibs.


I'd actually love the darker of the two! Will PM you my address.
pix
OK just ordered one of these

http://www.groveaudio.com/synthstore/index.php?route=product/product&p roduct_id=62

I want to build a few more of the Haible modules so just pulled the trigger.
sduck
I hope the picture for that supply is wrong - MOTM uses 4 pin .156 connectors, not the 6 pin .100 ones in the picture.
donpachi
Maybe those are MTA.156 6-pin? I ordered some years ago when I read the MOTM spec which says that modules needing a 5 V line use this 6-pin connector. Product page says that this supply indeed has a 5 V rail.
sduck
Could be! Actually the MOTM 6 pin connector is a .100 one like is used for dotcom, so that would be right. I missed the part about the 5v being in there.
pix
I didn't notice that, but yeah it's probably the 5V pin. I'll let you know how it works when I receive it.

In the meanwhile here's the .ai file with the updated panel
Laughing
A question.

I know Haible projects have BC560C or B listed in the BOM, but has anyone had luck using 2N counterparts that I can look for? I was thinking of using 2N3904's and '06s, has anyone tried that?

Also, has anyone succeeded with a counterpart to the BF245? Can it be replaced by MPF102's or J111's?
sduck
BC560's are readily available. With a project of this size (and rarity), it makes little sense to do substitutions to save a penny or two here and there. However, I bet there's a 2N part you could sub in - compare data sheets.

The Jfet though - have been discontinued. Although places like UTSource seem to have lots in stock - they hoarded stuff like this. You can get them cheap there, at least currently, and buy a bunch of extras for the next bunch of projects you might need them on. Don't know about subs though.
tommy.york
Tried to start wiring last night and I was totally humbled by (A) how complex the wiring diagram is, and how Modular Synthesis' wiring is different than Jurgen Haible's and (B) the gauge (20) + stiffness of the wire I got to do the wiring. It was like trying to wire with chicken wire.

What's a good soft / pliable wire to use? Does anyone have any tips for how to approach this?
glennfin
Just a couple of questions about this project,

Can this be adapted to run off of standard eurorack power? +12 -12v ?

Is there a PCB available? I have a few mc1496's I can put to use cool

Thanks
tommy.york
glennfin wrote:
Just a couple of questions about this project,

Can this be adapted to run off of standard eurorack power? +12 -12v ?

Is there a PCB available? I have a few mc1496's I can put to use cool

Thanks


Adapting the FS-1a will require some sort of step-up solution, because it very much needs 15v. This is discussed here. Right now, there's a breadboarded solution with a DC/DC converter sduck recommended. Cost is <$20. Thinking about a cheaper solution involving a cheaper chip, but it'll be more complex.

The PCB is available, from either Modular Addict in the US or Random*Source in the EU.
glennfin
Thanks for the info. I don't want to mess around with stepping up voltages just to run this board. I'll probably end up designing my own circuit around the 1496 that will be 12v friendly. cool



tommy.york wrote:
glennfin wrote:
Just a couple of questions about this project,

Can this be adapted to run off of standard eurorack power? +12 -12v ?

Is there a PCB available? I have a few mc1496's I can put to use cool

Thanks


Adapting the FS-1a will require some sort of step-up solution, because it very much needs 15v. This is discussed here. Right now, there's a breadboarded solution with a DC/DC converter sduck recommended. Cost is <$20. Thinking about a cheaper solution involving a cheaper chip, but it'll be more complex.

The PCB is available, from either Modular Addict in the US or Random*Source in the EU.
Cheradenine
Finished building one, in Modcan A format.
I left out the dry/wet mixing to fit everything on a 1U wide module...that can be done elsewhere in a modular synth
The signal LED and fine exp control were also omitted...needed space for the mandatory big knob Mr. Green





The calibrating was fun...sort of eek!


And now I have two more ready to be wired... MY ASS IS BLEEDING
pix
beautiful!! we're not worthy
Zaibach
Hey Guys, I just completed the wiring two days ago, when I encountered magic smoke on first power-up. After searching for a while looking for the short on pcb two I saw this:



The trace near the APF section is connected to the ground plane?? Could someone take a look at your board and confirm that this is normal - or is it a production error?
Cheradenine
This trace is -15V, it should absolutely not be connected to the ground plane.
I checked on 3 differents boards I have, there's no connection here.
This is definitly a production error, and can explain your magic smoke...that's a direct short between -15V and GND eek!

PWM
Never mind. Better answer typed faster. :

Always check unpopulated boards for errors!
Starspawn
Error, not so on mine.
Zaibach
Wow, thank you guys for your super-fast replies! thumbs up I will cut the connection and hopefully have this thing up and running very soon!
pix
OK, my fears came true...just plugged mine in for the first time and it's not working properly.

basically the only thing I hear in for the sum and diff outs is the internal oscillator. I can pitch it up and down fine, and my input signal shows up in the DryOut output so it's getting to board 1. But it's not being shifted after that.

I'm a bit overwhelmed by the complexity of the circuit, are there a couple of obvious things I should look for?

thanks!
Cheradenine
Do you have jumpers in the right places ? Before attempting to hear anything, you should follow the calibration procedure.
pix
thanks! I did have the jumpers set up properly but had wired the comp outs incorrectly.

It's working fine now, what a fantastic module. the feedback possibilities are insane and the sound quality is so good.

here are some pictures. Thanks again to Tommy for the panel layout. Also, I'm still waiting for the LED lens to arrive and still need to wire the output with the summed diff and sum outputs.


Zaibach
Finally got my Shifter working!



After scoring an old analogue oscilloscope on eBay to calibrate it properly, I ran into more problems, which I finally was able to fix. There was a bad solder joint at a transistor, which was my fault, but there were FOUR more manufacturing errors on pcb 2, all of which sent the signal at different places in the dome filter to the ground plane, never to be seen again. I mean, the signal is present at one side of a resistor, and at the other side it's gone? At first it looked like a measly 680R resistor dropped a 5Vpp signal down to nothing? Damn! That was causing me headaches... I should have been more suspicious after the first error on the pcb (a few posts up) where the -15V trace was connected to the ground plane... But it's working now. I already sent my voice through it - loads of fun!

Oh, and I think I mislabeled the feedback switch - it doesn't switch the feedback on or off, but switches between sum out and difference out for the feedback? So "Feedback mode" should be appropriate...
PWM
Zaibach Great looking build!

Always check over PCBs before populating, with a MM (continuity between power rails/ground) and with the power of sight.
I had some terrible trouble shooting experiences becouse I didn't.
Zaibach
PWM wrote:
Zaibach Great looking build!

Always check over PCBs before populating, with a MM (continuity between power rails/ground) and with the power of sight.
I had some terrible trouble shooting experiences becouse I didn't.


Thank you!
Well, I never had any problems with manufacturing errors so far, so I guess I just took it for granted that everything is ok. This one taught me! hihi
tommy.york


Here's the step-up converter on... I don't even know what this kind of board is called. It's not strip board, right? Because the back doesn't have strips?

I'm still getting settled after the move and after buying a bunch of connectors realized that I don't have the little metal things that you crimp onto the wires at the end. I've soldered everything in and now just need to get the thing wired.

One thing though: pix, where did you get those right angle connectors? Mine are all just straight, and that looks like it might be a better call in this situation.
pix
I got them from mouser I can look up the catalog#. But keep in mind I had to bend most of the cables coming out of the main board anyway.

also I'll send the panels sometime this week.
sanders
tommy.york wrote:
I'm using polystyrene (where available from Mouser) + C0G ceramics for the dome filter. Not 1% - will calculate resistor values for the dome filter.

Tayda polyester + electrolytic + tantalum everywhere else. Trying to do this project on a budget. waah


I've had this FS1 PCB set for years; bought it when it was first offered and put it aside until I figured out what to do with it. I didn't have the cash on hand when Zthee offered his Buchla-format kit; but now this thread has inspired me to dig it out and get started on a Eurorack assembly.

Was wondering though if anyone has a cart or list of the parts they ordered (particularly the selected dome filter cap/resistors and the 15v step-up components)?
sanders
Cheradenine wrote:

I left out the dry/wet mixing to fit everything on a 1U wide module...that can be done elsewhere in a modular synth
The signal LED and fine exp control were also omitted...needed space for the mandatory big knob Mr. Green


Most of the vintage Frequency Shifters, Bode, 360 Ststems, Buchla, Serge I've looked at for panel inspiration use a minimum of controls, mostly dominated by one Frequency Shift pot.

I guess I need to just build the FS1 and try it out with a dummy panel; But it's hard for me to imagine using all of the controls offered on this PCB. Particularly in the context of a little eurorack panel.

Can FS1 users speak to this? Most of the builds I've seen seem to incorporate all the controls; do any of them get used less than others? Are any of the controls never used? I'd like to scale down this Frequency Shifter to the most essential controls, but I also don't want to leave out some incredible feature I didn't know about.
Luka
i used all of the controls smile
sanders
I know Luka, I think I've seen your build. Excellent job.

But I'm just wondering-- when you 'play' it-- do you find that you utilize all of the inputs and knobs?
tommy.york
Question: the modularsynthesis.com instructions call for a number of modifications. Because my design is based on his, I'll need to do these. I have a question about the first instruction:
Quote:
I eliminated the exp polarity switch and modified the expo cv attenuator to a reversing style. On board1 I changed R2 from 51K to 36K, added an additional 36K resistor to pin 6 of U1, and wired the attenuator similar to the linear cv control circuit.

The first part is easy. But the second part - adding an additional 36k resistor to pin6 u1, is confusing. Clearly, I'd solder one end of the resistor to pin 6. Does the second pin to to pin 1 or pin 7 (both of which connect to pin 6, albeit differently, one through a 100k resistor, the other through a capacitor + resistor in parallel)? Or maybe it goes to ground?

This is why I bought Horowitz + Hill, but hey, I'm working up to it.

edit: also a bit confused by:
Quote:
I added a separate feedback attenuation control to pins 1 and 2 of the Mic_Level connector. The bypass switches route the input to the respective outputs but they do not affect the feedback control so the output may still be shifted.

Would like to know how any of you builders out there interpreted that.
sduck
tommy.york wrote:
But the second part - adding an additional 36k resistor to pin6 u1, is confusing. Clearly, I'd solder one end of the resistor to pin 6. Does the second pin to to pin 1 or pin 7 (both of which connect to pin 6, albeit differently, one through a 100k resistor, the other through a capacitor + resistor in parallel)? Or maybe it goes to ground?


Take a look at his modified schematics - http://www.modularsynthesis.com/jhaible/shifter/DJB-Frequency%20Shifte r%20schematic%20mods.pdf - that 36K resistor is between pin 6 and the expo FM pot

tommy.york wrote:
edit: also a bit confused by:
Quote:
I added a separate feedback attenuation control to pins 1 and 2 of the Mic_Level connector. The bypass switches route the input to the respective outputs but they do not affect the feedback control so the output may still be shifted.

Would like to know how any of you builders out there interpreted that.


I didn't do that one. And I seem to recall there was something wrong with Dave's input 2/FB knob, although he may have updated it - mine went into feedback way too fast, and was uncontrollable - I ended up changing to JH's pot value and adding a resistor to the feedback line. I think I documented this in the electro-music.com thread, or maybe not.
tommy.york
sduck wrote:
tommy.york wrote:
But the second part - adding an additional 36k resistor to pin6 u1, is confusing. Clearly, I'd solder one end of the resistor to pin 6. Does the second pin to to pin 1 or pin 7 (both of which connect to pin 6, albeit differently, one through a 100k resistor, the other through a capacitor + resistor in parallel)? Or maybe it goes to ground?


Take a look at his modified schematics - http://www.modularsynthesis.com/jhaible/shifter/DJB-Frequency%20Shifte r%20schematic%20mods.pdf - that 36K resistor is between pin 6 and the expo FM pot


Thank you. I'd forgotten about davebr's notes. Super useful.

I'm trying to go through and test all my connections while building them. For example, I was worried about the pot on the input as voltage divider and have been trying to test it with an oscilloscope, sending a sine wave into the input and spinning the pot. No luck yet, but I think it's a pot pinout issue. Anyone have any additional recommendations on checking the connections? Going to use a dmm to test all the other pots.
tommy.york
Alright, connections are getting there. Waiting until everything is debugged to do the exponential input, but I have a question about INV1, INV2, diffout, and sumout wiring, and an error on the frequency shifter itself I'm having:

sduck (or anyone else that did davebr's wiring): how did you wire INV1, INV2, diffout, sumout, the out jack, and the up/down A switch? I think I'm confused because they're on two different sides of the diagram. Do I just think of diffout and sumout going to both the up/down A switch and to each other, where they also run to invout and inv2?

I might just repost this with a diagram, I'm not sure my language is really clear here. No worries if you don't remember, if so I'll just take my best guess after I've got the other bugs figured out.

Second question: After wiring everything up, I don't get any wet signal. I've noticed that when running through the calibration procedures, I get messed up in the level calibration. I can get dryout to 5 Vp, but CmpOut will either be constant at like -13.6 V or show up as a square-ish wave that is 27 Vp that's only barely modified by R99. I'm looking for shorts / messed up IC pins / checking component values. Any other recommendations?
tommy.york
Posting to my own thread. It's peanut butter jelly time!

Still trying to fix this issue with negative flat cmpout. Did some poking around with the oscilloscope and some amateur schematic reading and such, I'm convinced that the issue is around U15 (tl071) near the bottom middle of the board.

Here are my notes. I've realized today that I was confusing Vp and Vpp, so initial amplitude was half what it should have been. Sending a sine wave into the input such that dry/out is 5v Vpp...

U15 (TL071)

Pin 1 [OFFSET N1] -14.93V
Pin 2 [IN-] probing pin 2 yields input signal, but small, 300 mVpp
Pin 3 [IN+ ] 0V, continuity to ground
Pin 4 [VCC-] -14.92V
Pin 5 [OFFSET N2] -14.92V
Pin 6 [OUT-1] -13.6V, voltage fluctuates a tiny bit, ac-coupled probe shows flat signal
Pin 7 [VCC+] 14.9V
Pin 8 [NC] 0V

I then tried to use that cool circuit simulator app to try and figure out what was going on with U15 and the relevant part of U16A (the LM13600). (simulation link). Btw if that's wrong please lemme know, this is my first attempt at modeling a circuit.

My next guess is to try to replace the lm13600, which I sourced from utsource, with a contemporary lm13700, on the off chance that the vintage chip is broken.

edit: That error was, in fact, a broken lm13600. Replaced all three of them with new lm13700's. The next issue I had was a misunderstanding about the placement about the jumpers. After that, I was able to calibrate as described.

Now, I get something that sounds like half shift, half carrier on both diff out and sum out. Is this what other people with successful builds have? Trying to figure out if there some kind of cancellation magic with one of the other outputs, given the QVCO.
muncky
Something of a necrobump- I stuffed this last year and Charlie Loudest Warning did the hard part of wiring and panel design. As yet unheard, but really happy to have this lovely noise box in my mitts!

sanders
I just thought someone might be interested to know, I connected my FS-1 to a 12v eurorack power supply the other day and it works fine. I didn't get to any elaborate testing of the signals, I simply A/B'd it against a MOTM PS I'd been using and listened carefully while adjusting parameters.

I think it probably sounds better with 15v, but the difference is not dramatic.

In all the years, I'd never read of anyone actually testing the FS-1 on 12v; everyone just seemed to take it for granted that it wouldn't work. But, it does. Good news.
Leverkusen
I would like to start building my FS now - has anyone an idea where to source the dome filter 1% capacitors?

Not sure if I understood it right but measuring and selecting them by hand seems to be a bit tricky, right?

I did not find any 1% caps anywhere that are not way to huge (physically) by now... hmmm.....
Haralds:Werk
Leverkusen wrote:
I would like to start building my FS now - has anyone an idea where to source the dome filter 1% capacitors?

Not sure if I understood it right but measuring and selecting them by hand seems to be a bit tricky, right?

I did not find any 1% caps anywhere that are not way to huge (physically) by now... hmmm.....


What is your problem with selecting by hand? I have done that many times for other projects. Just pick up a bunch and start to measure. OK, you need a decent LCR meter though. PM me if you need help.
Reese P. Dubin
I have been considering getting a second meter to compliment the trusty Fluke 73.

SO somebody suggest a good not insanely expensive one that can measure caps and transistors.

I have a populated FS1 set going back to when Jurgen was still with us that keeps shuffling to the bottom of the deck. I want to finish this thing now.
sduck
I exchanged some emails with Jurgen about this very thing. My fluke 115 doesn't read lower value caps very accurately, or at all below a certain point. So I asked how important it was to do this for all the caps, and his response was that whole approach as he describes for measuring caps and adjusting the resistor values to compensate was probably obsolete considering the relative uniformity of currently available parts. And that I could probably get away just fine using the default values he provides. So that's what I did for the values I couldn't measure with enough accuracy, and my FS1a works fine, no discernible carrier bleed.

As far as actually finding those styrene caps, I don't know - I know mouser still has some stock of at least some of the values. I bought enough for 2 or more of these back then - it was maybe 8 years ago though.
Starspawn
sduck wrote:
I exchanged some emails with Jurgen about this very thing. My fluke 115 doesn't read lower value caps very accurately, or at all below a certain point. So I asked how important it was to do this for all the caps, and his response was that whole approach as he describes for measuring caps and adjusting the resistor values to compensate was probably obsolete considering the relative uniformity of currently available parts. And that I could probably get away just fine using the default values he provides. So that's what I did for the values I couldn't measure with enough accuracy, and my FS1a works fine, no discernible carrier bleed.

As far as actually finding those styrene caps, I don't know - I know mouser still has some stock of at least some of the values. I bought enough for 2 or more of these back then - it was maybe 8 years ago though.


Thank you, Im in the same boat and have put off researching how to measure the smallest values. An excuse to not is welcome smile
Leverkusen
Haralds:Werk wrote:
Leverkusen wrote:
I would like to start building my FS now - has anyone an idea where to source the dome filter 1% capacitors?

Not sure if I understood it right but measuring and selecting them by hand seems to be a bit tricky, right?

I did not find any 1% caps anywhere that are not way to huge (physically) by now... hmmm.....


...OK, you need a decent LCR meter though.


I think that is the tricky point of the endeavor. I hope to find time to write you a pm on the weekend - I always wanted to do so anyway because of your awsome vocoder work.

sduck wrote:
I exchanged some emails with Jurgen about this very thing. My fluke 115 doesn't read lower value caps very accurately, or at all below a certain point. So I asked how important it was to do this for all the caps, and his response was that whole approach as he describes for measuring caps and adjusting the resistor values to compensate was probably obsolete considering the relative uniformity of currently available parts. And that I could probably get away just fine using the default values he provides. So that's what I did for the values I couldn't measure with enough accuracy, and my FS1a works fine, no discernible carrier bleed.

As far as actually finding those styrene caps, I don't know - I know mouser still has some stock of at least some of the values. I bought enough for 2 or more of these back then - it was maybe 8 years ago though.


So you used 2% styrene caps where possible and relied on the expected/printed values? I'll try this too then and see how far it gets me.

Thanks everyone!
Reese P. Dubin
sduck wrote:
I exchanged some emails with Jurgen about this very thing. My fluke 115 doesn't read lower value caps very accurately, or at all below a certain point. So I asked how important it was to do this for all the caps, and his response was that whole approach as he describes for measuring caps and adjusting the resistor values to compensate was probably obsolete considering the relative uniformity of currently available parts. And that I could probably get away just fine using the default values he provides. So that's what I did for the values I couldn't measure with enough accuracy, and my FS1a works fine, no discernible carrier bleed.

As far as actually finding those styrene caps, I don't know - I know mouser still has some stock of at least some of the values. I bought enough for 2 or more of these back then - it was maybe 8 years ago though.


Wish I read this 7 years ago!
Anyhow, great I am just gonna go for it.
sduck
Leverkusen wrote:

So you used 2% styrene caps where possible and relied on the expected/printed values? I'll try this too then and see how far it gets me.



That's pretty much it. I was able to read some of the larger value caps, but if I recall correctly only one (maybe 2) of them required any changes in the default resistor values.
Revok
I have most of my boards stuffed for this one but I'm getting hung up on the three 2SA733 PNP transistors. Outside of pinout differences is there any reason why I can't use 2n3906's here? I plan on heat shrinking the collector and base legs and crossing them.

Here's the area of the schematic if you're curious.

glennfin
I thought this might be the case.... The claim was made earlier in this thread that it absolutely needed 15v. I guess no one actually tried it until now... great to hear.. might breadboard up one now.


sanders wrote:
I just thought someone might be interested to know, I connected my FS-1 to a 12v eurorack power supply the other day and it works fine. I didn't get to any elaborate testing of the signals, I simply A/B'd it against a MOTM PS I'd been using and listened carefully while adjusting parameters.

I think it probably sounds better with 15v, but the difference is not dramatic.

In all the years, I'd never read of anyone actually testing the FS-1 on 12v; everyone just seemed to take it for granted that it wouldn't work. But, it does. Good news.
glennfin
The top post shows an "FPD" file??... don't know what this is...

Does anyone have a link to the full schematic?

Thanks.
marcn
Schematics are somewhere on this page along the old build/calibration notes
http://jhaible.com/legacy/frequency_shifter_fs1a/fs1a

As for the 1% caps, I used Wima. In Europe Reichelt has most of them in stock, takes a while to find the correct ones. I dont recall which ones exactly I used as i find their names pretty confusing but if you head to the Wima site its pretty straightforward to find the ones offered with 1% tolerance and to find them consequently on Reichelt.
glennfin
Got it! thanks. cool

Woah!!!... breadboarding that might take some time.. eek! eek! eek!

I don't suppose anyone has a PCB available?... Mr. Green I see photos of a PCB but can't find any mention about availability.


marcn wrote:
Schematics are somewhere on this page along the old build/calibration notes
http://jhaible.com/legacy/frequency_shifter_fs1a/fs1a

As for the 1% caps, I used Wima. In Europe Reichelt has most of them in stock, takes a while to find the correct ones. I dont recall which ones exactly I used as i find their names pretty confusing but if you head to the Wima site its pretty straightforward to find the ones offered with 1% tolerance and to find them consequently on Reichelt.
Starspawn
Available here:
http://randomsource.net/haible/vintage
keninverse
glennfin wrote:
Got it! thanks. cool

Woah!!!... breadboarding that might take some time.. eek! eek! eek!

I don't suppose anyone has a PCB available?... Mr. Green I see photos of a PCB but can't find any mention about availability.


R*S carries the FS-1A
glennfin
Thanks..... Has anyone built a euro version? (Euro panel ?) Guinness ftw! Guinness ftw!

Starspawn wrote:
Available here:
http://randomsource.net/haible/vintage
marcn
glennfin wrote:
Thanks..... Has anyone built a euro version? (Euro panel ?) Guinness ftw! Guinness ftw!

Starspawn wrote:
Available here:
http://randomsource.net/haible/vintage


I did.. sort of. Pcb's are quite large and frankly the unit is more useful in standalone i find.
Revok
glennfin wrote:
Euro panel ?


It is two 160mm x 100mm pcb's. I'm building mine as a stand alone unit.
sduck
glennfin wrote:
The top post shows an "FPD" file??... don't know what this is...



.fpd is the file format supported by Front Panel Express's software, used for panel design. Go here - https://www.frontpanelexpress.com - download their free software, install it, and then you can open .fpd files, edit or design them as you see fit, and have them made for you.
Revok
I've finished mine using 1% C0G capacitors and the default resistors for the Bode filter. It works as expected. There aren't many demos to compare it to but I would doubt there are any noticeable differences. They fit rather nicely too.

When Jurgen said you *must* use shielded cable on certain connections he meant *must* Dead Banana. After experimenting with regular hookup I found that the Mic Input, Mic Level, and Mic Gain were the most important for this. You might get away with leaving it out elsewhere but I replaced all of it after screwing around.

I would highly suggest using the connectors for the build rather than hard wiring. It made troubleshooting and things like adjusting the switch positions on some of the stuff that isn't immediately apparent until you hear it much easier.

If you are using the built in power supply you should definitely use heatsinks. I may end up swapping my transformer but the Hammond 186C36 I'm using runs a bit higher than the 36V it's supposed to put out so the heatsinks are getting pretty hot. I've run for a few hours so I don't think it's close to putting it into thermal shutdown but I would like it a bit cooler.

One more thing, the V/Oct calibration is not in the adjustment instructions so don't forget about it like I did! It's R8 on the main board.

edit: grammar
Luka
Nice work, noticed your photos in the other thread. Post them here too.

I have mine running from a half wave rectified psu using 15vac wall wort and it runs okay. It gets a bit warm but I have left it on and haven't had any dramas.

What is your measured current draw?

I think I used shielded cable with the mic as per the wiring schematic but interestingly in my vocoder which uses the same mic amp circuit I have gotten away without it. Though it is something I am considering rewiring when my final panel comes.
Revok
Thanks, Luka!





I cant find a good spot to check the current without taking off the heatsinks to lift something but maybe I'll mess with it this weekend. I think it has more to do with the 22.8V AC on each side of the transformer which is hitting the regulators with a measured 26.8V DC. I might give the 28V center tapped version 187C28 with the same footprint a shot.

I think it will work hmmm.....

C = 0.7 * I /(ΔV * F)
0.0004=0.7*.110/(ΔV*120)
ΔV≈1.6V

Vp=14V*√2≈19.8V

As for the shielded cable, it might be the length that's most important! The top of my enclosure is pretty much at the opposite ends of what's going on underneath so some of those cables are as long as 25cm.
Luka
How did you do the print on the enclosure? I had one of those cases for my mb808 and i never completed it as i couldn’t work out a method to toner transfer. That being said it was a large one 40cm or so wide. Fabricators wouldnt touch it as it was sloped.
Revok
I bought a Cameo 3 vinyl cutting machine. It felt like a bit of a gamble after watching video after video of people struggling to get their paper doilies to cut accurately (these were the best videos I could find of people documenting the fine details it could cut). The first test I put it through was cutting the Bergfotron Advanced VCO pcb which it did very accurately. It even cut the tiny holes for the leads. I had to mess around with it quite a bit to find the right settings for this. It can cut 12 in x 16.5 ft.

Below is the mask I made on the enclosure. I used Krylon SUPERMAXX All-In-One spray paint after watching video of guys using it on their semi-auto rifles so I figured it would hold up pretty well. No sanding or priming required although the beige powder coat on the Hammond enclosures is some sort of primer. I am impressed with the paint's durability. I did some tests on plastic and could not get it to chip at all. I am looking for a thicker paint I can brush or squeegee on for the next one though. I suck at spraying and the textured surface mixed with the runny paint from spraying too fast or too close was a bad combo.

oneiric.tomb
Anyone here down to build me a standalone version?
oneiric.tomb
Or eurorack?
oneiric.tomb
No one?
appliancide
I would build you a standalone unit for exactly 2x the cost of the materials to build it, so I could have the identical unit for myself.

I wouldn't expect a standalone unit to sell for less than $800-900.
oneiric.tomb
appliancide
PM'd Guinness ftw!
appliancide
I'm curious about how some of you have handled the mic/line input. The mic preamp portion of the circuit is expecting a balanced signal. Are you sending your line and modular signal through the preamp without converting it, or are you injecting the signal after the mic preamp? I'm finalizing my panel design, and am planning on using a XLR/1/4" combo connector and a 1/8" connector as well. The 1/4" connector will pass through the switch contacts of the 1/8" connector.
marcn
I haven't used the Mic option on mine but my line in works this way:
Line in jack ->Pot ->Pad labelled 'Mic Level' on board 2.
Its been a while since i built it so I'm not exactly sure how i came up with it but there certainly was some level of confusion.
Looking at the file jh_fs1a_schematics_connections_3 this is the pad labelled MIC LEVEL and it leads to a pot. The right pad carries your signal (mic signal from board or line from a jack) before being attenuated by the pot. Take a look at the file jh_fs1a_schematics_board_2, it shows the exact connections if using the MIC/SSM option. If I had to switch between 2 sources MIC or LINE each with their own physical input i'd put a switch there right before the signal hits the pot.

As for the XLR-jack combo connector I'm not sure, ive never dealt with those so i dont even know if the connections are shared which makes it more difficult or if theyre separate in 1 unit.Certainly can be done with switches and lots of poles hihi

I'm sure though if you search for unbalanced line into whatever preamp IC you use you'll find other options of connecting it, might be you just ground out one of the SSM sides to use an unbalanced input.
Revok
I use the AUX input for modular levels and really only use the preamp for a microphone or guitar but mostly mic. I built it the same as the wiring diagram shows. The only change I would make is not tying the feedback through the switch on the AUX jack. At some point I'm going to kludge in a couple resistors and a cap so that using the AUX jack doesn't disable the feedback.
appliancide


So here's my contribution to this thread. I used the onboard power supply and added a dedicated feedback knob as mentioned by Revok.

For the mic input, I just wired the XLR and 1/4" jacks together as they will never be plugged in at the same time. The mic preamp gain is awesome! It will distort a guitar input if you want it to.

How did you all go about the 1V/Oct calibration? I did it after all of the other calibration, and didn't notice any dramatic difference in tracking.
Revok
Your build looks so nice. Excellent job on the layout and aesthetics.

I think I fed mine an oscillator and set it an octave up. Then I sent them both the same CV and got it to track like 3 to 4 octaves maybe? I don't think it worked the same always and have never been satisfied that I did this correctly. Most of the time I'm just plugging in a mic and making funny voices to be perfectly honest but I would like to use it more musically soon.

It looks like setting the QVCO for hopefully a few octaves of tracking is the key to this. I'm totally lost looking at the schematic on this one though. I'd guess that using either of the integrator test points from step 1 of the calibration procedure might be a good spot to measure the frequency for a proper V/Oct calibration. I might give it a shot this weekend if I have the time.

Here are all of the pertinent quotes from Jürgen in the origina EM thread. I included the first one since it's a nice description of the main controls too.

Quote:
"You can set your maximum range (for a manual sweep) with the exponential pot, and then use the full rotation of the linear pot to perform this sweep, with zero shift at 12 o'clock position.

The linear fine tuning knob helps to set very precise sweeps near the zero point (for "infinite phasing"), even when a rather large range is set with the exponential pot.
The exponential fine tuning helps tuning the oscillator when you want your frequency shift amount to be in a precise musical relation to your input signal. ("Tracking Shift") "


Quote:
"In addition to these manual controls, there are a linear and an expo CV input: Linear CV with reversible attenuator, Expo CV with logarithmic potentiometer for attenuation.
Plus a dedicated 1V/Oct input (also exponential in nature); don't expect accurate tracking on more than 2 or 3 octaves, though."


Quote:
"If 3 ranges are enough for you, then a toggle switch will do.
I'd go for a better resolution, though: You could use a rotary switch with positions that are an octave apart, for instance.
But this should not give you the wrong impression that you really have precise octaves: On a good day, the oscillator will track 3 octaves or so, not more. (Speaking of the 1V/Oct input, but this would also apply to scaled switches.) "


Quote:
"Normally FS are most known for destroying harmonic relations.
But if you set the FS's internal oscillator to a "musical" ratio of your input signal, and transpose the two of them with the same CV, you can actully play little melodies ...

But I don't want to raise any high expectations. The tracking of the FS-1A's oscillator is very bad (more like two than three octaves) - the feature is that it does some kind of V/Oct tracking at all."


Quote:
"And, overall, don't expect good keyboard tracking. It's good for one or two octaves, not more. (I didn't put much effort in precision here.)


From: http://www.electro-music.com/forum/topic-18587-0.html&postdays=0&posto rder=asc&highlight=
Luka
can you guys post some demo's of your FS1s

i haven't heard many others and i'd love to assess whether mine is working as it should. i think the only ones online are sducks and mine.
Revok
I've been meaning to do a flashy video demo but my audio interface took a dive a while back. I might be able to rig up something to record sound though. What would be helpful for you, Luka?
Reese P. Dubin
Anybody sitting in a set of caps for this thing? pretty sure i may have chimed in with the same ? in the last 7 years...

God I need to finish this thing!
Revok
I used 1% C0G caps and it sounds good to my ears. They're kind of pricey but are available on Mouser and Digikey.
sduck
Reese P. Dubin wrote:
Anybody sitting in a set of caps for this thing? pretty sure i may have chimed in with the same ? in the last 7 years...

God I need to finish this thing!


It's quite likely that i still have spares of most if not all of the values needed for this. Send me a PM with your address to cajole me to look.
appliancide
Thanks for the thorough post Revok! I did read the whole e-m build thread, so I remember Jurgen's comments about tracking not being a big priority. I hadn't thought of calibrating it in relation to an input signal though, so that's a very helpful idea.

Luka, I've recorded a bit of experimenting with it, but those recordings quickly devolve into noisy messing around, so I'm not sure they would be useful to anyone. I'm willing to record something specific if it would be helpful to you. I will have the one in the picture for about a week before I send it to the owner, then it will probably be a few weeks before I finish wiring mine (same build, different graphic on the panel).

For caps, I used 1% film caps for most of the values, and a C0G for one of them that wasn't available in film.
Here's the part numbers I used (stocked at Mouser):

330p - SR211A331FARTR2 (heh, fart)
1nf - F463AG102F2K0A
1.2nf - F463AG122F2K0A
2.2nf - KP1830222011
4.7nf - F462AG472F1K0C
8.2nf - I used 10nf for these since 1% through-hole parts were not stocked at Mouser when I ordered (unless you want $18 mica caps). Jurgen's spreadsheet makes value substitutions easy.
10nf - F462AK103F1K0C
22nf - MKP1837322161
100nf - MKP1837410011
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Page 1 of 5
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group