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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Today my small discovery was...
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 29, 30, 31 [all]
Author Today my small discovery was...
joeSeggiola
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
2.2k is my go-to resistor value for most LEDs.

What? 2.2kΩ means ~3mA through the LED with a 9V battery, isn't it very little? I usually aim at 15mA for 5 and 3mm LEDs, which means a ~500Ω resistor at 9V... Am I missing something?
colb
Today my small discovery was...

Taking a larger division from a clock divider to set up a shuffle on an LFO being used as clock. Then the smaller divisions can be used for fills and more interesting sub rhythms.

e.g.
square out of LFO into dividers clock input.
dividers 1/16 output into LFOs lin FM input turned up to 10'o'clock (ladik VCO5)
dividers 1/64 output to kick
dividers 1/8 divided again by 4 (same as inverted 1/32 out) into another kick
dividers 1/4 out driving a hat type sound, but switched now and again to the 1/2 output for a fill

(divider is set to gate output not trigger)

Hmm.. now to try it on an LFO with reset...
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
joeSeggiola wrote:
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
2.2k is my go-to resistor value for most LEDs.

What? 2.2kΩ means ~3mA through the LED with a 9V battery, isn't it very little? I usually aim at 15mA for 5 and 3mm LEDs, which means a ~500Ω resistor at 9V... Am I missing something?


I'm using 2.2k for 3mm green LEDs from 5V, and they are so bright I can hardly stand to look at them. I'd probably go a bit bigger, maybe 3.3k, next time. I don't actually like blinkenlights very much, as I find them distracting, and they tend to be a distraction during design that I find to be more trouble than it is worth. However, sometimes they are necessary, and then I like them to be not so bright.
gelabs
Two oscillators + utilities like mix/max, rectifier and ring modulator + a simple sequencer = joy for hours smile

(yep, i am a noob at this :p )
colb
...how to make a two stage (three if you include the un-shifted input cv as a stage) Analog Shift Register using a dual sample and hold and half of a rampage!
cptnal
File this one under "hiding in plain sight"...

Finally got around to trying Telharmonic's shift register mode, and instantly magical shit started happening. Lotsa Love
cg_funk
OK. this one was so simple and it blew me away

Run my kick drum through envelope follower (Ears or Maths), and then quantize that envelope to a scale using the clock as a trigger. Instant repeating melody, wow! Now, modulate the decay of the drum a bit with a slow LFO, this creates melodic variations that are simply beautiful. Then, when I switch up the drum beat, the melody changes in fantastic unexpected ways.

Compared to using quantized LFOs for pitches, this envelope based method is much richer IMO. I think it has something to do with the decay shape of the envelopes.
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
Here are a few little discoveries I have made in the last few days while finishing up my massive handbuilt Polaris project:

1) When stacking a bunch of boards using hex spacers (the kind that screw into each other), don't tighten the spacers with a nut driver or wrench. Simply tighten them finger tight. If they are tightened down, they tend to bite into the PCB and the mounting holes are never perfectly aligned. This causes the spacers to take on a slight angle, so that by the time you have 4 or 5 PCBs stacked up, they will become increasingly difficult to put on the spacers. If the spacers are just finger tight, then all the PCBs slide on with ease (and I have 12 PCBs stacked up on my Polaris). There is no danger of them coming loose.

2) When using pin headers to take power and/or signals from one board to the next in a stack, don't bother with those female-to-long-pin strips that you have to cut with an x-acto knife and break and always lose a pin in-between and end up with ugly rough edges. Simply put two parallel rows of holes on your PCB, and use simple short-pin females on one row and pins pointed downward on the other. This makes every board have female upward and male downward. With this method, you can stack as many boards as you want and transfer rail power from board to board with ease. The trick is to stagger the position of the females and the males from board to board (i.e., females out, pins in on one board, then females in and males out on the next, etc.). It takes up slightly more board space, but it's super worth it.

3) Before putting the downward-pointing pins on the next PCB in the stack, place the board on top of the stack using the proper hex spacers, then slide the pins into their holes and plug them into the female sockets below. The pins will probably be too long, so simply slide the little plastic bits down the pins with your fingertips until they are flush with the PCB. Then remove the board from the stack and solder the pins -- they will now be the perfect length.

Those last two discoveries have been a life changer for me. It will make my builds oh so much cleaner and easier and faster.

I will be reproducing this post on my Doc Sketchy thread.
BaloErets
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch wrote:
Here are a few little discoveries I have made in the last few days while finishing up my massive handbuilt Polaris project:

1) When stacking a bunch of boards using hex spacers (the kind that screw into each other), don't tighten the spacers with a nut driver or wrench. Simply tighten them finger tight. If they are tightened down, they tend to bite into the PCB and the mounting holes are never perfectly aligned. This causes the spacers to take on a slight angle, so that by the time you have 4 or 5 PCBs stacked up, they will become increasingly difficult to put on the spacers. If the spacers are just finger tight, then all the PCBs slide on with ease (and I have 12 PCBs stacked up on my Polaris). There is no danger of them coming loose.

2) When using pin headers to take power and/or signals from one board to the next in a stack, don't bother with those female-to-long-pin strips that you have to cut with an x-acto knife and break and always lose a pin in-between and end up with ugly rough edges. Simply put two parallel rows of holes on your PCB, and use simple short-pin females on one row and pins pointed downward on the other. This makes every board have female upward and male downward. With this method, you can stack as many boards as you want and transfer rail power from board to board with ease. The trick is to stagger the position of the females and the males from board to board (i.e., females out, pins in on one board, then females in and males out on the next, etc.). It takes up slightly more board space, but it's super worth it.

3) Before putting the downward-pointing pins on the next PCB in the stack, place the board on top of the stack using the proper hex spacers, then slide the pins into their holes and plug them into the female sockets below. The pins will probably be too long, so simply slide the little plastic bits down the pins with your fingertips until they are flush with the PCB. Then remove the board from the stack and solder the pins -- they will now be the perfect length.

Those last two discoveries have been a life changer for me. It will make my builds oh so much cleaner and easier and faster.

I will be reproducing this post on my Doc Sketchy thread.


Hey Doc! Any place we can read up on this massive Polaris project. Sounds really intriguing!!
Moog$FooL$
"and I have 12 PCBs stacked up on my Polaris"

Madness!!! woah
Dr. Sketch-n-Etch
BaloErets wrote:
Hey Doc! Any place we can read up on this massive Polaris project. Sounds really intriguing!!


You can read up on all of my crazy little projects here:

Something New from Doc Sketchy

The Polaris project is at the very end, and I'm going to be posting a whole lot more stuff over the next day or two, because I'm going to finish the build today.
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