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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Befaco Rampage BOM
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2 [all]
Author Befaco Rampage BOM
polyot
PWM wrote:
polyot, I was quite surprised by this 'thight PCB sandwich' I assumed the component side of the main PCB was meant to be facing outwards, not inwards.. Almost soldered the heaters the wrong way around. screaming goo yo


I assumed the exact same thing. strange design for sure. Any time I've built something with 2 PCBs it is as you describe.
Hovercraft
PWM wrote:



Hovercraft, the trick is to set the temperature of your iron quite hot when desoldering with desoldering braid. Mine is around 480 C. I like it quick and hot! grin


Thanks for the tip--will crank up the temp next time I need to rework a board. Have also found that using flux also helps--the flux pen changed my life. thumbs up
PWM
Hovercraft wrote:
PWM wrote:



Hovercraft, the trick is to set the temperature of your iron quite hot when desoldering with desoldering braid. Mine is around 480 C. I like it quick and hot! grin


Thanks for the tip--will crank up the temp next time I need to rework a board. Have also found that using flux also helps--the flux pen changed my life. thumbs up



I finally flipped the caps out. Hold your iron to one of the pads and (GENTLY!) push the cap in the other direction. Repeat this for the other pin. Sometimes you need to do the first a second time after that.
The remaining tin can be braided out.

Never used a flux pen before but read good stuff about it. Have to order one.

AlanP
The physical construction of the Rampage is a bit odd, in terms of parts on the PCBs.

If I were to build a second one, I'd solder as many parts as possible on the pot/jack board on the panel side, NOT on the silkscreen side. Luckily, I left a little bit of wiggle room on my poly caps (they can be touchy about heat). Even then, I wound up bending transistors, seeing if the stupid boards would mate together, spotting what was stopping it THIS time, wedging yet another part...
PWM
AlanP wrote:
The physical construction of the Rampage is a bit odd, in terms of parts on the PCBs.

If I were to build a second one, I'd solder as many parts as possible on the pot/jack board on the panel side, NOT on the silkscreen side. Luckily, I left a little bit of wiggle room on my poly caps (they can be touchy about heat). Even then, I wound up bending transistors, seeing if the stupid boards would mate together, spotting what was stopping it THIS time, wedging yet another part...


Agreed, constructing this module is a bit fiddly..
Southfork
has anyone sourced the two shape pots (ones with 6 pins) and sliders from anywhere other than befaco? Was going to order from them but the are doing pots in batches of in x10 and want ball busting shipping too.
Bamboombaps
http://www.mouser.co.uk/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?r=652-PTV112-4420A B103
aknudsen
I've created a platform for DIY projects, MuzHack, where I have an entry for the Rampage with a BOM. Do you guys have a complete BOM with URLs which I can add to the BOM on my page?

I just built a Rampage btw at the Befaco workshop in Berlin, it was fun but exhausting smile The height of the polystyrene caps didn't bother me too much, I just bent them down.

This is the source BOM btw, in compact YAML format.
masterofstuff124
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=847 which of these is the right transistor?
Sin_Phi
you need the dual of that transistor, http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualk eyBCM857DS135 http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualk eyBCM847DS135

2 of each

Also in case anyone is interested I have redone the layout in SMD and through-hole with more common components. Added a ring mod and attenuverters. I have only done the BOM for SMD. http://www.sinphi.com/synths/miasma/miasma.html
lasesentaysiete
Sin_Phi wrote:

Also in case anyone is interested I have redone the layout in SMD and through-hole with more common components. Added a ring mod and attenuverters. I have only done the BOM for SMD. http://www.sinphi.com/synths/miasma/miasma.html

just saw this on modulargrid. Looks great! Have you built one, yet?
Whelm
I just finished a Rampage kit and it came with an extra slide pot! Sneaky Befaco! Now I'll have to build another one at some point.
br1qbat
Soooo, anyone know what ics are pre-soldered? I kinda sorta fried one when I put a 074 in backwards. Side A works, B. . . not. Looking at the board with the power connector at the bottom, it's the rightmost of the 4
d'oh!
br1qbat
Gonna answer my own question. I was having problems viewing the schematic on my phone. No problems on my computer. In case anyone needs the info its a BCM857-DS. and you can get one from mouser easily, for about less than 50 cents usd. Time to fix this bad boy! Rockin' Banana!
ilya.n
Anyone knows if it is safe to replace 3MOhm resistors with 3M3? Thanks.
Steharris92
Cool, nice one mannnn grin
schnitzelbub
Did you finish this one?
I'd be so interessted in seeing the eagle files, ...

Thanks for any answer in advance!!!
Junko
Hej! I just started to source for components and realised I've been ordering a lot of 1/4 W resistors instead of 1/8 W d'oh!

I assume I have to re-order (?), but I was just wondering if someone could explain what difference the watt makes in this case? Is the use of 1/8 W resistor a common thing in befaco builds..?
degeneratedsines
I think 1/4 W can withstand more current before burning and it won't make the circuit behave differently if you use them instead of 1/8 W.
Now the issue is that 1/4 W package size is usually bigger and longer.
I was missing one or two values for my Even VCO and I used 1/4 W by bending the legs inwards underneath the resistor like you see on some ceramic capacitors. But I don't think I could have done this for the entire build where it is more dense.
SphericalSound
I built the rampage using 1/4w resistors too. Its a bit more dense but it will work the same. The Rampage uses a lot of 100K, it would be advisable to just source the 100K ones (maybe from a local shop, should be cheap as chips, is what I did)
Junko
@degeneratedsines and @MapacheRaper

cheers! then i'll fit the 1/4 where i can and order some 1/8 where it's too narrow a fit
Junko
would this one work as the 10p power connector:
mouser no 517-30310-6002


(I by accident ordered this one: mouser no 538-87833-1031 which was way too tiny, i think i got that from a DIY BOM but I must have misunderstood smth)
degeneratedsines
looks good. you need 2.54mm pitch 10 pins 2 rows
StrangeCaptain
Folks!
sorry to Necro this thread but I'm ordering parts for this bad boy.

can someone explain the 2 position and three position switches?

whats the difference between on-on and and on-none-on and on-off-on.

according to Digikey tech support on-none-on isn't a 3 position switch but a 2 position switch that doesn't stop in the middle.
can I use an on-on in place of an on-none-on?

I realize that the angle of the level will be odd but is that the only difference?
thanks!!!
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