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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Befaco Rampage BOM
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY  
Author Befaco Rampage BOM
nevetsokyeron
Has anyone already created a BOM for the Befaco Rampage?

Mouser preferably, but a list or spreadsheet of part numbers would be fine.

Figured I should check in here before possibly duplicating a bunch of work.

Thx!
nevetsokyeron
OK then... Here's my first pass at a parts list for the Rampage V1.3

Taken from the assembly instructions. Updated as best I can on part values.
nevetsokyeron
Possible Mouser part number for the push button switches:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/SB4011NOH-2C/?qs=sGAE piMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYP6h0vu6Milzc%252bbXQkIpc50%3d

EDIT:

These from Tayda are the right size and fit on the board just right.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/pb-11d02-push-button-panel-mount-spst- no-pb-11d02-th1r00.html
nevetsokyeron
FYI - I got a full kit from Befaco for a friend and looked over the parts they include. Here's a few notes:

Chips are TL074

The Ferrites are just little tubes, with no leads. Similar to this: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=757-AB2.8X4.5DY

The 2.2n Polystyrene caps have radial leads.

The Polyester caps (470n, 47n) are the rectangular box shaped ones.

Trimmer has printed on it "67x R10k 1532 Mexico" - "BI" logo on the side

FWIW - I ordered these Polystyrene caps from Smallbear (not sure how they will fit on the board yet since they are axial):
http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/polystyrene-capacitors- 100-pf-01-mf/

EDIT: Mouser part FOUND for the trimmer (with side screw):
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/BI-Technologies-TT-Electronics/67X R10KLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvygUB3GLcD7gknixh97sBu0wVY7P58PMw%3d
nevetsokyeron
Note - for the little Toggle and Slider knob/caps - take a look at these at smallbear:

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/colored-caps-soft-touch  /
Bamboombaps
Your work is appreciated!
nevetsokyeron
Bamboombaps wrote:
Your work is appreciated!


Polyot also did a fair bit of sourcing - wanted to copy some of what we both found and discussed in PMs to this thread for future reference.
smile
nevetsokyeron
Updated BOM spreadsheet with Mouser part numbers and notes for other harder to find items in the build.
Bamboombaps
the main problematic ones that require going to befaco and eating their crazy shipping charges are the pots
Thomedwards
Would this from Mouser work for the polystyrene cap? Looks good to me, but I'm still learning...

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/23PS222/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhdgv tLzyx9WzEnfPpP1gSEstze4MZQjMo%3d

I'm looking at the great xls posted above, and I'm trying to reduce the number of suppliers needed. Shipping costs are no fun...
speedmaster
My openoffice says that the file is corrupted. Can u try to upload it in other version?.
lot of thx for ur work !
polyot
Thomedwards wrote:
Would this from Mouser work for the polystyrene cap? Looks good to me, but I'm still learning...

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/23PS222/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhdgv tLzyx9WzEnfPpP1gSEstze4MZQjMo%3d

I'm looking at the great xls posted above, and I'm trying to reduce the number of suppliers needed. Shipping costs are no fun...


That looks correct to me. But maybe someone with a better eye can chime in. The one I got from Small Bear was 50V 5% tolerance as well.
GryphonP3
Xicon styrene from mouser will work great.
Thomedwards
speedmaster wrote:
My openoffice says that the file is corrupted. Can u try to upload it in other version?.
lot of thx for ur work !


Here's the file as a csv. Actually had to save it with a txt extension due to the forum restrictions, but that's a simple fix to change the extension. That should do the trick
speedmaster
yeah !!! lots of thx !!!
TimoRozendal
it seems you miss the smd parts:
2 x BCM847DS and 2x BCM857DS in sot 457
nevetsokyeron
TimoRozendal wrote:
it seems you miss the smd parts:
2 x BCM847DS and 2x BCM857DS in sot 457


The PCB I got from ModularAddict had the SMD chips already installed. I assumed all the Rampage PCBs came that way.
PWM
Building a rampage atm. When sourcing parts be careful with selecting the polyestirene caps (C15 and C16) the ones that came with my complete kit from Thonk are to high, now the PCBs don't fit on eachother..
The height of the spacers is 13mm, more or less. So the caps should be smaller.
polyot
PWM wrote:
Building a rampage atm. When sourcing parts be careful with selecting the polyestirene caps (C15 and C16) the ones that came with my complete kit from Thonk are to high, now the PCBs don't fit on eachother..
The height of the spacers is 13mm, more or less. So the caps should be smaller.


If they came with the kit they should work, no? Can't you just bend them downward some? As I recall there's a little room around them to do that. Granted I sourced mine myself.
PWM
polyot wrote:
PWM wrote:
Building a rampage atm. When sourcing parts be careful with selecting the polyestirene caps (C15 and C16) the ones that came with my complete kit from Thonk are to high, now the PCBs don't fit on eachother..
The height of the spacers is 13mm, more or less. So the caps should be smaller.


If they came with the kit they should work, no? Can't you just bend them downward some? As I recall there's a little room around them to do that. Granted I sourced mine myself.



I could bend them in if I didn't solder them in so thight to the PCB. D:
Hovercraft
PWM wrote:
Building a rampage atm. When sourcing parts be careful with selecting the polyestirene caps (C15 and C16) the ones that came with my complete kit from Thonk are to high, now the PCBs don't fit on eachother..
The height of the spacers is 13mm, more or less. So the caps should be smaller.


Had the same exact problem with my Rampage kit. The circles on the pcb indicate vertical mounting for the poly caps, but the boards don't fit together because the caps are too big. I ended up ordering some spacers with long pins for the headers--that worked fine, although I had to order them from China.
PWM
Hovercraft wrote:
PWM wrote:
Building a rampage atm. When sourcing parts be careful with selecting the polyestirene caps (C15 and C16) the ones that came with my complete kit from Thonk are to high, now the PCBs don't fit on eachother..
The height of the spacers is 13mm, more or less. So the caps should be smaller.


Had the same exact problem with my Rampage kit. The circles on the pcb indicate vertical mounting for the poly caps, but the boards don't fit together because the caps are too big. I ended up ordering some spacers with long pins for the headers--that worked fine, although I had to order them from China.


This is an option. I think I'm going to remove the caps and mount them on the other side though..
Hovercraft
PWM wrote:


This is an option. I think I'm going to remove the caps and mount them on the other side though..


Kudos to you if you can remove the caps and get them back in the board. I can get components out and usually clear the holes, but the leads are usually too messed up to reuse.
polyot
PWM wrote:
Hovercraft wrote:
PWM wrote:
Building a rampage atm. When sourcing parts be careful with selecting the polyestirene caps (C15 and C16) the ones that came with my complete kit from Thonk are to high, now the PCBs don't fit on eachother..
The height of the spacers is 13mm, more or less. So the caps should be smaller.


Had the same exact problem with my Rampage kit. The circles on the pcb indicate vertical mounting for the poly caps, but the boards don't fit together because the caps are too big. I ended up ordering some spacers with long pins for the headers--that worked fine, although I had to order them from China.


This is an option. I think I'm going to remove the caps and mount them on the other side though..


Shoot that's a good idea. One of the transistors on my panel PCB ended up getting bent inwards, touching a couple of the leads together. going to have to figure out how I can maneuver that out of the way of whatever bent it. Very tight PCB sandwich.
PWM
polyot, I was quite surprised by this 'thight PCB sandwich' I assumed the component side of the main PCB was meant to be facing outwards, not inwards.. Almost soldered the heaters the wrong way around. screaming goo yo


Hovercraft, the trick is to set the temperature of your iron quite hot when desoldering with desoldering braid. Mine is around 480 C. I like it quick and hot! grin
polyot
PWM wrote:
polyot, I was quite surprised by this 'thight PCB sandwich' I assumed the component side of the main PCB was meant to be facing outwards, not inwards.. Almost soldered the heaters the wrong way around. screaming goo yo


I assumed the exact same thing. strange design for sure. Any time I've built something with 2 PCBs it is as you describe.
Hovercraft
PWM wrote:



Hovercraft, the trick is to set the temperature of your iron quite hot when desoldering with desoldering braid. Mine is around 480 C. I like it quick and hot! grin


Thanks for the tip--will crank up the temp next time I need to rework a board. Have also found that using flux also helps--the flux pen changed my life. thumbs up
PWM
Hovercraft wrote:
PWM wrote:



Hovercraft, the trick is to set the temperature of your iron quite hot when desoldering with desoldering braid. Mine is around 480 C. I like it quick and hot! grin


Thanks for the tip--will crank up the temp next time I need to rework a board. Have also found that using flux also helps--the flux pen changed my life. thumbs up



I finally flipped the caps out. Hold your iron to one of the pads and (GENTLY!) push the cap in the other direction. Repeat this for the other pin. Sometimes you need to do the first a second time after that.
The remaining tin can be braided out.

Never used a flux pen before but read good stuff about it. Have to order one.

AlanP
The physical construction of the Rampage is a bit odd, in terms of parts on the PCBs.

If I were to build a second one, I'd solder as many parts as possible on the pot/jack board on the panel side, NOT on the silkscreen side. Luckily, I left a little bit of wiggle room on my poly caps (they can be touchy about heat). Even then, I wound up bending transistors, seeing if the stupid boards would mate together, spotting what was stopping it THIS time, wedging yet another part...
PWM
AlanP wrote:
The physical construction of the Rampage is a bit odd, in terms of parts on the PCBs.

If I were to build a second one, I'd solder as many parts as possible on the pot/jack board on the panel side, NOT on the silkscreen side. Luckily, I left a little bit of wiggle room on my poly caps (they can be touchy about heat). Even then, I wound up bending transistors, seeing if the stupid boards would mate together, spotting what was stopping it THIS time, wedging yet another part...


Agreed, constructing this module is a bit fiddly..
Southfork
has anyone sourced the two shape pots (ones with 6 pins) and sliders from anywhere other than befaco? Was going to order from them but the are doing pots in batches of in x10 and want ball busting shipping too.
Bamboombaps
http://www.mouser.co.uk/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?r=652-PTV112-4420A B103
aknudsen
I've created a platform for DIY projects, MuzHack, where I have an entry for the Rampage with a BOM. Do you guys have a complete BOM with URLs which I can add to the BOM on my page?

I just built a Rampage btw at the Befaco workshop in Berlin, it was fun but exhausting smile The height of the polystyrene caps didn't bother me too much, I just bent them down.

This is the source BOM btw, in compact YAML format.
masterofstuff124
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=847 which of these is the right transistor?
Sin_Phi
you need the dual of that transistor, http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualk eyBCM857DS135 http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualk eyBCM847DS135

2 of each

Also in case anyone is interested I have redone the layout in SMD and through-hole with more common components. Added a ring mod and attenuverters. I have only done the BOM for SMD. http://www.sinphi.com/synths/miasma/miasma.html
lasesentaysiete
Sin_Phi wrote:

Also in case anyone is interested I have redone the layout in SMD and through-hole with more common components. Added a ring mod and attenuverters. I have only done the BOM for SMD. http://www.sinphi.com/synths/miasma/miasma.html

just saw this on modulargrid. Looks great! Have you built one, yet?
Whelm
I just finished a Rampage kit and it came with an extra slide pot! Sneaky Befaco! Now I'll have to build another one at some point.
br1qbat
Soooo, anyone know what ics are pre-soldered? I kinda sorta fried one when I put a 074 in backwards. Side A works, B. . . not. Looking at the board with the power connector at the bottom, it's the rightmost of the 4
d'oh!
br1qbat
Gonna answer my own question. I was having problems viewing the schematic on my phone. No problems on my computer. In case anyone needs the info its a BCM857-DS. and you can get one from mouser easily, for about less than 50 cents usd. Time to fix this bad boy! Rockin' Banana!
ilya.n
Anyone knows if it is safe to replace 3MOhm resistors with 3M3? Thanks.
Steharris92
Cool, nice one mannnn grin
schnitzelbub
Did you finish this one?
I'd be so interessted in seeing the eagle files, ...

Thanks for any answer in advance!!!
Junko
Hej! I just started to source for components and realised I've been ordering a lot of 1/4 W resistors instead of 1/8 W d'oh!

I assume I have to re-order (?), but I was just wondering if someone could explain what difference the watt makes in this case? Is the use of 1/8 W resistor a common thing in befaco builds..?
degeneratedsines
I think 1/4 W can withstand more current before burning and it won't make the circuit behave differently if you use them instead of 1/8 W.
Now the issue is that 1/4 W package size is usually bigger and longer.
I was missing one or two values for my Even VCO and I used 1/4 W by bending the legs inwards underneath the resistor like you see on some ceramic capacitors. But I don't think I could have done this for the entire build where it is more dense.
SphericalSound
I built the rampage using 1/4w resistors too. Its a bit more dense but it will work the same. The Rampage uses a lot of 100K, it would be advisable to just source the 100K ones (maybe from a local shop, should be cheap as chips, is what I did)
Junko
@degeneratedsines and @MapacheRaper

cheers! then i'll fit the 1/4 where i can and order some 1/8 where it's too narrow a fit
Junko
would this one work as the 10p power connector:
mouser no 517-30310-6002


(I by accident ordered this one: mouser no 538-87833-1031 which was way too tiny, i think i got that from a DIY BOM but I must have misunderstood smth)
degeneratedsines
looks good. you need 2.54mm pitch 10 pins 2 rows
StrangeCaptain
Folks!
sorry to Necro this thread but I'm ordering parts for this bad boy.

can someone explain the 2 position and three position switches?

whats the difference between on-on and and on-none-on and on-off-on.

according to Digikey tech support on-none-on isn't a 3 position switch but a 2 position switch that doesn't stop in the middle.
can I use an on-on in place of an on-none-on?

I realize that the angle of the level will be odd but is that the only difference?
thanks!!!
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