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WIGGLING 'LITE' IN GUEST MODE

Buchla 208r V2.1 (Blue) Build Thread
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Music Tech DIY Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 19, 20, 21, 22  Next [all]
Author Buchla 208r V2.1 (Blue) Build Thread
needspeed
Karl71 wrote:
needspeed wrote:
Anyway to find front panels at this point as having PCBs is great, but a front panel would be very helpful.....Thanks for any assistance.....Steve


You could try papz.he sells them with his 208p pcb sets.


Thanks will give it a go.....Steve
finson
Hi there, I have a problem with the pulser on my 208 r2.1. I can hear the pulses of the pulser on the phones while the monitor level is on zero! With lower pulser period, the single pulses turn into a audible sound. It seems the pulser modules transitions leak to the ground... This still occurs with a disconnected pulser LED.
Does somebody had/has the same problem with their 208, or has some idea what's wrong?
synthi
finson wrote:
Hi there, I have a problem with the pulser on my 208 r2.1. I can hear the pulses of the pulser on the phones while the monitor level is on zero! With lower pulser period, the single pulses turn into a audible sound. It seems the pulser modules transitions leak to the ground... This still occurs with a disconnected pulser LED.
Does somebody had/has the same problem with their 208, or has some idea what's wrong?

I´ve heard similar stories caused by not enoght juice in the PSU, you cold try powering the 208 with a bigger one...
doepferiano
happening to me too

the pulser clicks in the audio outputs, with volume to 0
the incredible thing is if I move the volume to 8 is going down

(the ENV too if in autoretrig mode)

finson wrote:
Hi there, I have a problem with the pulser on my 208 r2.1. I can hear the pulses of the pulser on the phones while the monitor level is on zero! With lower pulser period, the single pulses turn into a audible sound. It seems the pulser modules transitions leak to the ground... This still occurs with a disconnected pulser LED.
Does somebody had/has the same problem with their 208, or has some idea what's wrong?
dingebre
Hi everyone. Just coming to the Buchla world and Buchla SDIY projects. I just ordered the 218 PCB set from Roman. The BOM calls out a "microcontroller card" based on an STM32F405. The link in the BOM does not connect to this card and I can't find it on the site. Could some kind soul help me source the proper card?

Thanks
David
gruvsyco
dingebre wrote:
Hi everyone. Just coming to the Buchla world and Buchla SDIY projects. I just ordered the 218 PCB set from Roman. The BOM calls out a "microcontroller card" based on an STM32F405. The link in the BOM does not connect to this card and I can't find it on the site. Could some kind soul help me source the proper card?

Thanks
David


https://electricmusicstore.com/products/microcontroller-card
dingebre
Sigh... I totally missed that on the products page. Thank you very much.

David
dingebre
tarandfeathers wrote:
Envelope sustain boards are now up for sale, along with various other 208/Buchla odds and ends, at http://www.dunningtonaudio.co.uk

[...]

I'm writing an article that goes into some depth about the design of the envelope generator, the nature of the problem and how it is fixed. That should be up in a couple of weeks, for anyone who is interested.


Hello all. Just coming into this build, a bit late, I know. I was wondering if there is another source for "tarandfeathers" envelope sustain board? His site appears to be out of stock and I've not found information about any additional runs.

Or, does someone want to sell me one? PM if you have a spare you don't mind selling.

Thanks!

David
muncky
See here:
https://www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=203257
dingebre
Many thanks.

David
trimix
I may be over-analysing at this point, but is there a preferred way to test each card for proper function before hooking up the whole enchilada and adding power?
When I do eurorack builds I test each module out of the rack, on my bench. But has someone come up with a test rig or setup to test, for example, card #8 on its own? Or do you plug it into the mother board and see if it functions at all?
wedaman
Hello everyone.
I ask questions here because I can not find the build thread of Buchla 211.

I built the POWER SUPPLY UNIT MODEL 211.
However, the +15V terminal has only 11.75 voltage.
Does anyone know the information on the circuit diagram of Buchla 211 ?

I post a photo.
Please give me advice.

captnapalm
wedaman wrote:
Hello everyone.
I ask questions here because I can not find the build thread of Buchla 211.

I built the POWER SUPPLY UNIT MODEL 211.
However, the +15V terminal has only 11.75 voltage.
Does anyone know the information on the circuit diagram of Buchla 211 ?

I post a photo.
Please give me advice.


the 15V is supplied by IC3. All the problems I've seen with these have come from a blown or improperly soldered IC3.
wedaman
captnapalm wrote:
wedaman wrote:
Hello everyone.
I ask questions here because I can not find the build thread of Buchla 211.

I built the POWER SUPPLY UNIT MODEL 211.
However, the +15V terminal has only 11.75 voltage.
Does anyone know the information on the circuit diagram of Buchla 211 ?

I post a photo.
Please give me advice.


the 15V is supplied by IC3. All the problems I've seen with these have come from a blown or improperly soldered IC3.


captnapalm, Thank you for your support.
I will check the IC3.
wedaman
wedaman wrote:
captnapalm wrote:
wedaman wrote:
Hello everyone.
I ask questions here because I can not find the build thread of Buchla 211.

I built the POWER SUPPLY UNIT MODEL 211.
However, the +15V terminal has only 11.75 voltage.
Does anyone know the information on the circuit diagram of Buchla 211 ?

I post a photo.
Please give me advice.


the 15V is supplied by IC3. All the problems I've seen with these have come from a blown or improperly soldered IC3.


captnapalm, Thank you for your support.
I will check the IC3.


I checked IC3 and re-soldered, but I could not get +15v.
IC3s Pin11 outputs -15 v.

I can not find a circuit diagram and I can not repair it.
Throw my hands up.
captnapalm
wedaman wrote:


I checked IC3 and re-soldered, but I could not get +15v.
IC3s Pin11 outputs -15 v.

I can not find a circuit diagram and I can not repair it.
Throw my hands up.


I was wrong before. It looks like IC3 only makes -15.

The only places I could find +15 on mine are on one side of R4 and one side of D1 and that area.

My suspicion is that it takes +12V and +5V and adds them together, then uses resistors to trim it down to +15.
davebr
captnapalm wrote:
wedaman wrote:


I checked IC3 and re-soldered, but I could not get +15v.
IC3s Pin11 outputs -15 v.

I can not find a circuit diagram and I can not repair it.
Throw my hands up.


I was wrong before. It looks like IC3 only makes -15.

The only places I could find +15 on mine are on one side of R4 and one side of D1 and that area.

My suspicion is that it takes +12V and +5V and adds them together, then uses resistors to trim it down to +15.

I have no information and don't have one to look at easily but the LM27313 is a boost regulator so I believe it is used to step up the +12V to +15V. From a quick look at the datasheet the bandgap reference is 1.23V and I see a 13K3 resistor in the BOM. Working backwards, that would require a 148K9 resistor for the other resistor and there is a 150K in the parts list. Check these resistor values and soldering around these parts.

Dave
jersupereq
I'm having an issue where noise slowly builds up until it drowns out the oscillators. I believe its related to card 12 where ic4 is heating up like crazy. I can't find any shorts or errors on the card. The soldering is ugly i know seriously, i just don't get it


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davebr
jersupereq wrote:
I'm having an issue where noise slowly builds up until it drowns out the oscillators. I believe its related to card 12 where ic4 is heating up like crazy. I can't find any shorts or errors on the card. The soldering is ugly i know seriously, i just don't get it

IC4 is getting hot because it is oscillating. That is also the source of the noise. Those LM380s can go unstable quite easily. Check all the component values around that part and make sure the soldering is good. Lots of different things can make them oscillate so you just have to check everything. They will burn themselves out so I wouldn't leave it powered on for long.

Dave
jersupereq
davebr wrote:
jersupereq wrote:
I'm having an issue where noise slowly builds up until it drowns out the oscillators. I believe its related to card 12 where ic4 is heating up like crazy. I can't find any shorts or errors on the card. The soldering is ugly i know seriously, i just don't get it

IC4 is getting hot because it is oscillating. That is also the source of the noise. Those LM380s can go unstable quite easily. Check all the component values around that part and make sure the soldering is good. Lots of different things can make them oscillate so you just have to check everything. They will burn themselves out so I wouldn't leave it powered on for long.

Dave


You were right I spotted an incorrect cap value on the motherboard right next to card 12, no more noise or overheating. Thanks! thumbs up Next bug to figure out is the pulser not running only stepping with the switch, but now is time to sleep. Dead Banana
trimix
Papz, I'm just now calibrating (or trying to) my two pA726 adapters.
The trim pots seem to do nothing....
And the last comment on your build sheet states, "The voltage should be around 0.63V" uh, where?

Also when testing board 6 (with no other boards mounted on the Motherbd) the ca3046 gets really hot at the top end....normal? Board 7 not at all.
I've checked component placements and soldering all looks good, no obvious shorts. I guess I just don't know what I should be seeing as normal
papz
The voltage should be measured with the red probe on the pA726 "T° Volt" pad next to the trimpot and the black probe on the 208's ground.

The trimpot works with the jumper in place only, first measure without jumper and then with jumper to adjust voltage 60mV below the first reading. If it doesn't change voltage, double check resistors value and solder joints.

The 3046 should get hot, that's how thermal oven compensation works.
If it stays cold, there is a problem, faulty IC or bad solder joint or bad connection with the 208 card...
gruvsyco
Some questions.

Should the frequencies on the panel be fairly close to real? My pitch goes way below 55 and way above 1760.

My CO tracks the keyboard at 2v/o but not at all on 1 or 1.2. No matter the adjustment, the range is not wide enough. The MO has the same problem except it doesn't even track on 2v/o. Should the MO track the keyboard at all?

My timbre/waveshape circuit (slider) seems to be full at around 3-4. I'm guessing the knob on that circuit is supposed to morph the waveform from sine to whatever the waveshape selected is. If this is the case, my knob seems to give the best waveforms at around 50%.
papz
This should help http://www.portabellabz.be/images/208/208%20build%20notes_final.pdf
wedaman
Hello everyone.
I need help.

I removed the flux. And I confirmed soldering with a loupe.

I can not hear anything from card 6. Which pin of molex is the MO output of card 6?

And there is sound from card 7. However, moving the FINE TUNING knob and the PITCH slide does not change the sound.
Where is pitch adjustment on card 7?

I used pA726.
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