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Getting power into a Mother 32 case (a hack)
MUFF WIGGLER Forum Index -> Eurorack Modules Goto page 1, 2  Next [all]
Author Getting power into a Mother 32 case (a hack)
batch
I have taken my M32 out of the skiff it came in and put it in my main case. For some time I have been wondering what to do with the skiff as thought it should have a use.

Today I managed to figure out how to get Eurorack power in using the DC entry on the back so I now have a total of 5A over +12, -12 and +5 and the full 60 HP to use.

The trick is using the older Synthrotek 5A Power supplies. These use a 5A 12V DC brick, and then convert some of it to 5V and -12V. The M32 also uses a 12V brick. Given this, the power connector coming off the little board in the M32 is just +12V (black cable) and ground (green). I literally just fed these into the +ve and -ve connectors on the 5A power supply and voila, lots of power.

Here is how it looks (sorry the photo is upside down, for the life of me I don't know why I can't get the images to rotate)

.

The good news is that this is a permanent solution as even if I put the M32 back it its case I can just connect it using the standard Eurorack power cable.

I've also taken the side off and added some more sliding nuts. I use 2.5mm screws and needed to use the thicker nuts from ethenvar as the ones from Synthrotek are too thin and fall out.

Now time to buy 20 Pico modules!

Hope this helps.
TechForze
Nice!
I did also some modification on my Moog 60HP cases. I used a dremel to cut out 4HP at the back and put a uZeus there.
regardless
Super cool! Now we just need a bus board that can plug in where the mother does and draw from the Moog PSU. Simple plug and play bus stick! Im not good with wires.. so plug and play Id buy one right now grin
batch
Think I'm just going to use a flying bus cable for the time being as have one lying about.
batch
Ps. If you want a board that can be cut to size try the Synthrotek Noise Reduction ones. They work really well and can be cut to size.
cyclopeatron
Armstrb wrote:
The trick is using the older Synthrotek 5A Power supplies.


Do you have a link to purchase the specific part(s) required?

This is great, thanks for sharing!
Mashmore
excellent!

I am curious... I am actually wanting to put my mother back in its skiff. I still want to patch the mother with my euro( I just want to free up the space in my mantis.) Would this be the solution so they will play nicely with each other? Do i need to do this at all? I obviously dont want to fry my shit just to free up 60HP. It would just put off the inevitable of buying another case at the moment.

Thanks for sharing this BTW. Cheers
cyclopeatron
I forwarded this thread to Synthrotek and they were pretty excited. They are actually considering doing another run of the power converter PCB so people can convert their M32 boxes.

In the mean time, you can get the power converter PCB for $10:

http://store.synthrotek.com/Eurorack_5A_Power_Supply_System_PCB

They said if there's interest in an M32 conversion kit and they order another batch they may raise the price, so you might consider grabbing one now (I did).
cyclopeatron
Mashmore wrote:
excellent!

I am curious... I am actually wanting to put my mother back in its skiff. I still want to patch the mother with my euro( I just want to free up the space in my mantis.) Would this be the solution so they will play nicely with each other? Do i need to do this at all? I obviously dont want to fry my shit just to free up 60HP. It would just put off the inevitable of buying another case at the moment.

Thanks for sharing this BTW. Cheers


You can just put mom back in her original case, hooked up like she was originally. I've moved mine in and out of her original case several times.

The only reason you'd want to do this retrofit is to put non-M32 modules into an empty M32 case.
2k4s
Nice one. I was thinking about this yesterday and you just gone and done it! Love this forum!
batch
Mashmore wrote:
excellent!

I am curious... I am actually wanting to put my mother back in its skiff. I still want to patch the mother with my euro( I just want to free up the space in my mantis.) Would this be the solution so they will play nicely with each other? Do i need to do this at all? I obviously dont want to fry my shit just to free up 60HP. It would just put off the inevitable of buying another case at the moment.

Thanks for sharing this BTW. Cheers


My main system is spread over 3 12U / 100HP cases and I am always patching between them without issue. Everything is well grounded and runs through Furman power conditioners.
batch
Also, just to clarify, this converts an M32 case to Euro. It uses, the DC in jack and power board that comes with the M32.

This won't work with one of the empty 60 HP cases they sell separately.

Saying that, I think it would be super easy to use the 1U power in panel that the 5A Power Supply comes with as a template to drill a few holes in the back on the 60 HP case.

Am thinking about doing this to make this

batch
regardless wrote:
Super cool! Now we just need a bus board that can plug in where the mother does and draw from the Moog PSU. Simple plug and play bus stick! Im not good with wires.. so plug and play Id buy one right now grin


This is probably as close as you'll get. The M32 power in only provides +12V so you need something to convert that to get power to the -12V and +5 rails. This is exactly what the Synthrotek 5A supply does.
JRamella
Armstrb - if I may... what size nut/bolt did you use to mount the bus board onto the mother32 case? Thanks!!
batch
Hmm ... not 100% sure, either an M2.5 or M3, probably an M3, but have both lying about. It's screwed straight on (i.e. No nut).

For the rails I used the ethenvar m2.5 nuts - they are a bit wider than the ones Synthrotek sell which I found fell out of the rails.
batch

blakeq
SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! SlayerBadger! that looks great!
Dragonaut
Not sure how you find the inputs on that girl Miley Cyrus

Looks insane though. In a good way.
string56
This is great, I've done some similar hacks on my Mother-32 cases, the Mother-32 modules are both elsewhere. One hack is simply running the +12 and ground to a passive power distribution board (using 10 pin headers, the -12v is unconnected, the +12v from the moog psu is connected to the +12v rail and the gnd is connected to all three gnd rails).

There are quite a few modules that will run off only +12v and some of these are particularly suitable for a 60HP "control" skiff, so one of mine has 2 x Pressure points + brains, plus Tempi, which serves as master clock and clock divider/multiplier and general trigger duties.

The other one has Rene, a master clock, clock divider and a couple of logic modules. Rene plus Tempi is a pretty nice combination too. You have to check the power requirements of your modules of course, anything that requires +5v is out, as is anything that needs -12v (which is most of them). But some manufacturers, Ladik comes to mind, have a large percentage of modules that only need +12v. Make noise did a few, with the express intention that it would enable users to set up small control skiffs which could run off a 12v wall wart alone. They had their own solution for this, but they stopped promoting that angle, even though recently released modules such as Tempi need +12v only (but overall most won't work Wobblebug would be great next to Rene for example, but needs -12v).

Sometimes modulargrid is accurate on the power requirements, but I wouldn't rely on it, I have a list somewhere of modules confirmed to run on only +12v, Triggerman is another that springs to mind, again, rather nice master clock and trigger sequencer to head up a 60HP control skiff.

Also you have to watch your power requirements, the Mother-32 wall-wart is rated at 1A, I don't know if using a 4A brick will simply up the available +12v to around 4A, I haven't looked closely at what the tiny power board is doing, I don't know if it simply passes the +12v and gnd through to the two pin header, or if there is any intervening circuitry that could potentially be damaged by more current. Anyway, the Mother-32 module itself is rated at 230mA, so a pair of pressure points + brains come in a total of only 50mA, so even if the total power available were (for example) 500mA there's plenty of headroom in that config. Rene is 80mA and Tempi 46mA, so again much less than a single Mother-32. (All these figures quickly taken from modulargrid so should be double checked, but I've had all these combinations working perfectly, not sure if I tried out Triggerman yet).

And finally this is reversible, if you wanted to put the Mother-32 back in the case you can either disconnect the two pin header that connects to the passive distribution board, mine are simply veroboards soldered with about five 10 pin headers, plus a connector similar to the one on the Moog psu board, linked by a 2 pin jumper wire with locking clips on both ends.
string56
Of course your mod with the Synthrotek board is a much more versatile solution, my approach severely limits which models you can use, but 2 x PP, Brains and Tempi is 54 HP, so you still have 6HP for a 2HP mult, and one other module, a Ladik S-080 Resettable divider or one of the Ladik logic modules could be a good choice. I haven't yet found a quantizer that runs off only +12v, (I can imagine why quantizers would require -12v), that would be great next to pressure points of course.

Can I ask why you didn't just remove the moog psu board completely and connect the 12v wall wart directly to the Synthrotek board? I see that your system is completely reversible to a "stock" system, but going through the moog psu would seem to be otherwise redundant. One reason for keeping it would be to make use of the jack output on the same board, wiring analogue signals from a module with a rear expansion header (or even CV, if the moog board will pass it - if it won't, jump the CV signals directly to the jack) to get two mono audio (or CV) signals out of the stereo jack out. That's something I'm exploring currently. It might be cool to use two cases, put a small mono unbalanced to balanced output board in each case, and then use the two TRS jacks to provide a master balanced stereo out to your mixer, soundcard, whatever.

In your tests does it appear that the moog board simply passes whatever it receives at +12v straight to that pin without passing through any filtering (for example) or any other circuitry at all? And you can simply pump in 4A instead of the stock 1A and get the full current delivery on all rails from the Synthrotek board? That's very cool - but there must be other boards similar to the Synthrotek, I think I have a couple of PSU kits I haven't built yet, I'll check them and see if they'd do the same job.
string56
All these produce +12v, -12v and +5v but run off AC power, so not a directly comparable solution, and one would have to watch height clearance with capacitors etc, but they could still be used in the Moog 60hp case, removing the moog psu, putting a standard PSU inlet into the hole (I have a number of inlet connectors that will screw in and attach securely, many power inlet connectors are designed for PCB mounting but not all). Then wiring the socket to the board, which would be mounted on the rails with plastic mounts, or attached otherwise taking care of insulation from the case.

But AC/AC power supplies are a pain to find these days, so I don’t think I’d personally go this route.

Will check other options. As another poster mentioned, you can simply mount a Tiptop uZeus or similar standard power module, the 4ms Row Power 30 might be a good higher quality solution, inside the case, saving 4HP for modules. You need to watch the heat but powering only 60HP of modules that's not going to be a problem. Rather than dremeling a 4HP hole in the back of the case you could install the module inside and run power from a case mounted inlet socket (as described above) to the module securely fixed somewhere inside the case, suitably insulated.

Frequency Central Power DIY

Frequency Central Routermaster DIY

Rebel Technology power board (now discontinued I think)
JRamella
cyclopeatron wrote:
I forwarded this thread to Synthrotek and they were pretty excited. They are actually considering doing another run of the power converter PCB so people can convert their M32 boxes.

In the mean time, you can get the power converter PCB for $10:

http://store.synthrotek.com/Eurorack_5A_Power_Supply_System_PCB

They said if there's interest in an M32 conversion kit and they order another batch they may raise the price, so you might consider grabbing one now (I did).


The link is only to the PCB... don't you also have to purchase this?

No-Panel Power Wiring Kit
batch
You only need the PCB.

The power comes in via the M32 DC in on the back of the case. This saves you 4 HP.
JRamella
Sorry... wrong link - meant you still need this.

What is a blank pcb w/o -12v convertors 5v regulator and resistors?

http://www.synthrotek.com/BOMs/eurorack_powersupply_bom.pdf
batch
Yes, you'd have to build it.
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